© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!

I recently had a chance to sample some Lion’s Pride Woolspun (by Lion Brand Yarn), and boy, was I impressed!

This #5 bulky weight yarn is pretty awesome. Sold exclusively at Michael’s stores, it’s a sturdy yarn that doesn’t split and shows stitch definition very clearly.

I’ve been experimenting with combining some of my favorite stitches and textures, and I’m absolutely thrilled with how this pattern came out!

It’s a double-wrapping scarf, but I think it looks beautiful hanging long, too.

The fringe is optional, but why would you not want it?

And do you want to know the best thing about this pattern?

It has a matching slouch hat!

Brand New Video Tutorial Available!

If the video below doesn’t work for you, please click here.

Video Breakdown:
3:10 – Beginning of Pattern
25:30 – Fringe
31:27 – Buttons
32:08 – Seaming
36:10 – Stitch Appendix

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THE RUSTIC INFINITY FRINGE SCARF

Level: Easy

Size:
Scarf measures 64″ around, and is 7″ wide (not including fringe). These measurements are easily adjustable.

Materials:

• N hook (9.00mm)
• Yarn needle
• Lion’s Pride Woolspun (from Lion Brand), about 400 yards. The color in the photos is Taupe.
  *About Lion’s Pride Woolspun:
    Weight: #5 Bulky
                Fiber: 80% acrylic, 20% wool
  Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 127 yd (116 m)
• 4 button embellishments (mine are 1″), plus tools to attach buttons (needle, thread)

Gauge: With N hook, a row of 7HDC = 3″ in length.

Abbreviations Used:
CH (chain)
SK (skip)
SS (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
DC (double crochet)
SC+DC (this just means to put a single crochet and a double crochet in the same stitch)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect. Click here for tutorial.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) The buttons are just a decorative embellishment (non-functional).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using N Hook, and leaving a 12″ tail, CH151.

Row 1:  SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (150)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (150)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (150)

Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 148 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (150)

Row 5: CH1, turn. Working in 3rd loops, SK 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (150)

Rows 6-16: Repeat Rows 2-5, in order, until you have 16 total rows (you will end with a repeat of Row 4). (150)

Edging
We are going to put an edging on only one end of the scarf (it isn’t necessary anywhere else). So, with your hook in the same place you left off on Row 16, CH 1. SC into the same ST again to turn the corner to the short end of the scarf. SC evenly along the edge, putting 4SC in between each ribbing row. When you get to the end of the short edge, finish it off with a CH1 and a SL ST into the same ST as your last SC. Fasten off and weave in your ends.

Fringe
We need to cut approximately 75 pieces of yarn for the fringe. Find a sturdy, thin object in your home that measures somewhere between 8-10″. I used my 9″ cutting board and it worked perfectly! Here’s how you make fringe (the numbers correspond to the photos below):

1. Wrap the yarn around the cutting board about 40 times (this will give us a little wiggle room). Wrap it snug, but don’t wrap it crazy-tight. Try to be consistent.
2. Take a good pair of scissors and carefully cut the yarn right down the center of the pile.
3. You now have a pile of yarn approximately 18″ long. Very carefully, fold it in half and cut at the halfway point again. You should now have about 80 strands of yarn.
4. Start at one end of the scarf, on the side where you began the pattern (the CH151 side). Using a crochet hook and one strand of yarn, find the first stitch. Fold the yarn in half and use the hook to pull it halfway through the space created by that first stitch. The two ends of the strand should be poking out the front of the entry point.
5. Remove your hook and insert the two ends of the strand through the loop.
6. Pull tight.
7. Continue down the scarf, adding fringe to every other stitch. This will be easy to spot, because when you did your SC+DCs, they created little spaces. Use the photo for a visual.

Button Embellishments
Use your needle and thread to attach the 4 buttons to the front of the short end of the scarf (the one that has the edging!).

Seaming
To make this an infinity scarf, we’re going to attach the ends together. Instead of doing a normal seam (where the first row is joined to the last row), we are going to overlap the edge with the buttons over the other end by about 1-2″. This will give the illusion that the buttons are holding it closed. You can use a needle and thread to sew along the edge. (I sewed the bottom layer to the underside of the top layer so that it didn’t disrupt the look of the top piece, because I’m not very good at sewing.) You could also use a sturdy fabric glue, but be sure it’s machine-washable!

That’s it, folks! I was pleasantly surprised at how stunning these stitches looked incorporated into a chunky scarf, and I hope you love it as much as I do!