© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design
Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!
When I completed the pattern for the Yenni Slouch (that’s pronounced like the English “Jenny”, by the way), I had a good amount of Cascade Yarns Longwood Sport left over. So naturally, I decided to make some matching boot cuffs. I am so glad I did… I think they’re the perfect compliment to the hat!
What I really love about these boot cuffs is that, thanks to the #3 weight yarn, they don’t feel as bulky as your standard worsted weight boot cuff patterns tend to. They slip under your boot almost like a super soft, thick sock.
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THE YENNI BOOT CUFFS
Level: Easy
Size:
Small (but easily adjustable) – cuffs measure about 5″ tall and 12″ around
Materials:
- G hook (4.25mm)
- Cascade Yarns Longwood Sport*, 190-200 yards. The color in the photos is Doeskin Heather.
*About Longwood Sport:
Weight: #3 light
Fiber: 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool
Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 273 yds (250 m)
Gauge: 22-24 sts = 4″ (10 cm), US 5-6 (3.75-4.0mm) - Yarn needle
- 2 buttons (1″ or smaller), plus tools to attach buttons to boot cuffs
Gauge: With G hook, 9HDC = 2″
Stitches Used:
CH (chain)
SS (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
DC (double crochet)
SC+DC (this just means to put a single crochet and a double crochet in the same stitch)
Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect.
Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) Because of the button flap embellishment and the fact that we want it to be on opposing sides of the cuffs (so that it is visible on the outer sides of the wearer’s legs), we have to construct the two cuffs a little differently. Please note that there are two patterns below, one for each cuff.
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CUFF #1
To begin:
CH19.
Row 1: SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)
Row 3: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)
Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 16 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (18)
Row 5: CH1, turn. In 3rd loop, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)
Rows 6-44: Repeat Rows 2-5 in order until you have 44 total rows (you will end with a repeat of Row 4). (18)
Note: If you want to make larger boot cuffs, continue to repeat rows 2-5 until they are the width you desire. For best results, make sure you still end on a repeat of Row 4.
Row 45: CH1, DO NOT turn. Begin to SC down the LONG edge of the project, putting 5SC in each section between ribbing rows (see photo below for a visual). You should end up with 55SC (unless you decided to make your boot cuffs larger – this is fine). Then, CH 7.
Row 46: Turn your work. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Continue to SC across. (61)
Rows 47-50: CH1, turn. SC across. (61)
Row 51 (edging): CH1, turn. SC across (61). Putting (SC, CH1, SC) in both corners, continue to SC around the edge of the button flap. Stop when you get here (please note that this photo is actually from the Yenni Slouch pattern, which is why the band looks so wide, but it’s the same concept):
Sewing the boot cuff closed
Fasten off your yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a yarn needle, sew the ends of the cuff together. Utilize the 3rd loop of the edge with the HDCs in order to blend the seam in so it is hardly noticeable (again, this photo is from the Yenni Slouch pattern, but same concept):
Once you get to the bottom of the cuff, make a knot, fasten off and weave in all ends.
Optional Lower Edging: The bottom of the boot cuffs won’t show, but I like my projects to have a nice finished look, especially if I’m planning on selling them. If you want to give your boot cuffs a clean, finished look as well, go ahead and reattach your yarn, and add a row or two of SC around the bottom edge of the cuff, following the “5SC between each ribbing section” rule of thumb you used in Row 45. Fasten off and weave in your ends.
Use a needle and thread to sew your button flap in place, then attach your button.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
CUFF #2
Please note, Rows 1-44 are identical to Cuff #1.
To begin:
Leaving a 12″ starting tail (to use later), CH19.
Row 1: SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)
Row 3: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)
Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 16 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (18)
Row 5: CH1, turn. In 3rd loop, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (18)
Rows 6-44: Repeat Rows 2-5 in order until you have 44 total rows (you will end with a repeat of Row 4). (18)
Note: If you increased the width of Cuff #1, make sure you do the same with Cuff #2.
Row 45: Ch7. You are now going to begin working down the long side of your cuff. SC in 2nd CH from hook, and in each remaining CH. Then continue to SC down the long edge, putting 5SC in each section between ribbing rows (see photo from Cuff #1 for a visual).
Rows 46-50: CH1, turn. SC across. (61)
Row 51 (edging): Fasten off and weave in the end. Then, attach your yarn in the inner corner of the button flap, as shown below, and – working on the right side of the boot cuff (the side with the ribbing) – SC around the button flap and across the length of the cuff, putting (SC,CH1,SC) in each corner. When you reach the other end, fasten off.
Sewing the boot cuff closed
Using a yarn needle and your starting tail, sew the ends of the cuff together. Utilize the 3rd loop of the edge with the HDCs in order to blend the seam in so it is hardly noticeable. (See photo from Cuff #1 for help.)
Make a knot, fasten off and weave in all ends.
Optional Lower Edging: The bottom of the boot cuffs won’t show, but I like my projects to have a nice finished look, especially if I’m planning on selling them. If you want to give your boot cuffs a clean, finished look as well, go ahead and reattach your yarn, and add a row or two of SC around the bottom edge of the cuff, following the “5SC between each ribbing section” rule of thumb you used in Row 45. Fasten off and weave in your ends.
Use a needle and thread to sew your button flap in place, then attach your button.