If you’re anything like me, you have a lot of partially-used skeins (or balls or cakes) of yarn lying around. So you’ve probably found yourself in a situation where you think you have enough yarn to make a particular pattern, but even though you can weigh the partial skein to find out how many ounces are left, your pattern only lists required yardage.
What’s a girl (or guy) to do?
Luckily, this is a pretty easy thing to figure out once you know the equation. It’s the same equation I used to teach you to how to figure out the yardage of a finished product (read that blog post here), except we’re just changing out some of the information we need to plug in.
All you need is your partial skein(s), a calculator, a scale that weighs in ounces or grams (a food scale or a postage scale will work), and the information on the label of the skein you used (or if you’re like me and threw it away long ago, you can look up the yarn’s stats on the company’s web site). Using the diagram below, follow the directions to quickly find your answer. (If you aren’t a fellow math nerd, don’t let the diagram scare you away. Just follow the directions. It’s easy, I promise.)
So, let’s walk through this with an example. I’ll use a partial skein I have right here with me. It’s Lion Brand’s LB Collection Superwash Merino (a #3 light yarn). I’ve just finished designing a new pattern with it (coming soon), and I have quite a bit left, so I’d like to know if there is enough for me to make a pair of Comfy Squares Boot Cuffs, which calls for 160 yards of #3 light yarn.
Step 1: Fill in the info for the pink and blue boxes. According to my food scale, the partial skein weighs 1.6 oz, so I’ll plug that into the pink box on the bottom left. I also have the skein’s label right in front of me, which tells me that one full skein has 306 total yards (pink box on the top right), and it weighs 3.5oz (blue box). (If I didn’t have the label, again, I would look up the yarn on the company’s web site.)
Here’s what I have so far:
Step 2: Multiply the numbers in the pink boxes together. 1.6 x 306 = 489.6
Step 3: Take the total from step 2, and divide it by the number in the blue box. 489.6 / 3.5 = 139.9
Step 4: My total yardage for the partial skein is about 140 yards! Unfortunately, that’s not enough for the boot cuff pattern. So instead, I’ll probably wrap a blank sheet of paper around the skein and write the yardage right on that piece of paper so I’ll know for next time.
Easy peasy, lemon squeezy (as my 5 year old would say)!
One thing I’ve learned about my fans is that you love patterns that come in sets. I released the Comfy Squares Textured Cowl last month and several of you asked for the boot cuff pattern that I’d mentioned in the blog post that I was planning to make. I finally got around to writing it down!
Click here for the original cowl pattern, or scroll down for the boot cuff pattern.
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This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
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COMFY SQUARES TEXTURED BOOT CUFFS
Size: Small (12″ around and 5″ tall); instructions for adjusting for different sizes are included. Gauge: With G hook, 10SC = 2” in length Hook: G (4.25mm) Yarn: 150-160 yards of #3 light weight yarn (such as Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn Sport) You’ll also need: Yarn needle
Abbreviations Used: CH (chain) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch) BLO (back loop only)
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) It is crocheted as a flat piece, then seamed at the end.
(3) CH1 at the beginning of rounds does not count as a stitch.
(4) The phrase “(SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 7 times” means 7 times total.
(5) Only crochet in BLO (back loops only) when specifically instructed.
Instructions for different sizes: Making these larger (or smaller) is simple — instead of repeating rows 2-3 until piece measures 12″ in length as instructed, simply repeat until the cuffs are the length you need. You can also add to the height of the cuffs by increasing your starting chain (keep it an odd number), and including those added stitches in the (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) section.
PATTERN (MAKE 2)
To begin: CH25.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 7 times. SC in each of the last 4 STS. (24)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 7 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in last ST. (24)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 7 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in last ST. (24)
Rows 4-53 (or until piece measures 12″ in length): Repeat rows 2-3. (24)
Fasten off, leaving a 12″ tail. Use your yarn needle and finishing tail to seam both ends of the cuff together. Fasten off and weave in all ends.
When I find a stitch I love, I get really fixated on it. I make a bunch of different patterns with it until I finally get bored and move on to another stitch.
My fixation right now?
The SC+HDC combo!
The first pattern I made with this stitch was the Comfy Squares Textured Cowl. It was a bit of an accident how it all came together, and interestingly enough, that cowl has become my go-to cowl this winter. I love the way it drapes, and I just love the look of the stitches.
Our family draws names for Christmas, and this year, I drew my Grandma. I was so excited! I knew right away that I wanted to make her something special. So I decided this would be the perfect opportunity to try out this stitch in blanket form.
I am thrilled with how it turned out!
Let’s talk colors. I need to give a shoutout to my friend Krista at Rescued Paw Designs — I’ve admired her great sense of color schemes since I first discovered her blog. The colors I chose for my blanket were inspired by some of her blanket patterns.
I used a collection of Vanna’s Choice (which has some of the most gorgeous neutral colors available in the big craft stores): Purple, Linen, Taupe, and Gray Marble. The great thing about Vanna’s Choice is that their entire line coordinates. So you can pretty much go in and choose any colors you want, and you’re almost guaranteed to come out with a beautiful color scheme.
My advice? Choose three neutrals and one accent color. Make sure at least one of your choices is a heather yarn (meaning it has little flecks of other colors in it) to give your blanket a rustic modern look. (Love me some rustic modern!)
I took the advice of my Little Monkeys followers and softened the finished blanket up by running it through the dryer with a dryer sheet. I was surprised at how soft it came out, and it didn’t mess with the blanket at all. (I’m paranoid about stuff like that.)
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
COMFY SQUARES TEXTURED BLANKET
Level: Easy
Size: Blanket measures 30″x40″ (stroller blanket or small lap blanket size). Pattern is easily adjustable for both length and width.
Hook: K (6.50mm)
Yarn: About 180 yards of #4 worsted/aran weight yarn per color block. I used Vanna’s Choice (by Lion Brand) in color blocks of Purple (x2), Linen, Taupe and Gray Marble. Please see Notes section for a helpful note about yarn amounts.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle
Gauge: Not crucial, but a row of 10SC = about 3″ in length.
Abbreviations Used: ST (stitch) SL ST (slip stitch) SK (skip) CH (chain) SC (single crochet) HDC (half double crochet) SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(3) A note about yarn amounts: I used yarn in my stash to complete most of this project, so I wasn’t concerned about trying to use full skeins… which resulted in a pattern that, if done as written, uses about 30 yards of a second skein per color block. If that drives you absolutely nuts, you might want to make your blanket smaller or larger to avoid having a lot of leftover yarn. 🙂
(4) To adjust the width of your blanket, add or subtract from your starting CH (just begin with an odd number of CHs). To adjust the length of your blanket, add or subtract an even number of rows to/from each color block.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
To begin:
With first color, CH101.
Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from hook. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 CH remains. SC in remaining CH. (100)
Rows 2-22: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (100)
Row 23: CH1, turn. SC in first ST and in each ST across. (100)
Helpful tip: The SCs in Rows 23 & 24 help us to create a nice straight line where color blocks come together. If we didn’t add it, the color changes would have a more jagged edge.
Switch to a new color; fasten off previous color.
Row 24:CH1, turn. SC in first ST and in each ST across. (100)
Rows 25-46: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (100)
Row 47:CH1, turn. SC in first ST and in each ST across. (100)
For each remaining color block: Switch to a new color and fasten off the previous color, then repeat Rows 24-47.
I’ve had the time of my life learning and growing as a blogger and designer throughout 2015. My 2 year blogging anniversary is coming up in a couple of weeks, and it’s hard to believe I only started this adventure two winters ago.
You guys have been such an encouragement to me this year. Please know that I am fully aware that my ability to succeed in this business is because of you!
If you’d like to reminisce with me over the last 365 days, take a look at this collection of my Top 10 Pattern of 2015.
I have received so many requests for a scarf or cowl pattern to match the Macchiato Slouch Hat. I didn’t bother with it because the reality of that hat is that it’s actually incredibly simple (just rounds of HDCs), and it was the Scarfie yarn that made it so unique-looking. So a matching cowl would be, simply, rounds of HDC.
I’ve realized though, after being asked for a matching pattern so many times, that not everyone can make something without a pattern to follow.
And that’s ok!
I think improvising simply comes naturally to some people and not to others. So, I went ahead and whipped up the easiest-ever cowl to match. I wrote out the pattern, which is at the bottom of this post!
About the Yarn
Each skein of Scarfie has very gradual color changes between two colors. I immediately gravitated to the Cream/Taupe, because, well, I’m a sucker for a good taupe color. Each skein has 312 yards of bulky weight yarn, so you’ve got plenty to make a beautiful, ombre-style accessory.
Click the photo to view Lion Brand Scarfie yarn on Craftsy!
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
THE MACCHIATO COWL
Level: Easy
Size: Cowl measures 30″ around and is 12″ tall.
Hook: N (9.00mm) Yarn: About 250 yards of #5 chunky weight yarn; I used Lion Brand Scarfie Yarn in Cream/Taupe. You’ll also need: Yarn needle
Gauge: A row of 5HDC = about 2” long
Abbreviations Used: ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
CH (chain)
HDC (double crochet)
FHDC (foundation half double crochet — optional, but recommended. View tutorial here.)
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in a seamless round. Only join or chain when instructed to do so. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the first ST of each round.
(3) Finding knots in your yarn is just an annoying and unavoidable reality of crocheting, and with a gradual-change yarn like this one, it’s especially aggravating when the knot joins yarn from two completely different parts of the color change pattern. This happened to me while making this cowl, and all I did to fix the situation was cut the yarn just before the knot, then pull the yarn from the skein until I got back to the point in the pattern where I had left off, and joined the new yarn there.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Round 1:
FHDC 72. Join ends together with a SL ST into the first FHDC, being careful not to twist the round. (72)
Optional start:
CH73. HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first HDC, being careful not to twist the round. (72)
Round 2: DO NOT CHAIN. HDC in first ST and in each ST around. DO NOT JOIN.
Rounds 3-26 (or until cowl measures about 12” tall): HDC in each ST around.
SL ST into the next 3 STS to smooth down the round. Fasten off; weave in all ends. If you used the Foundation HDC method, use your starting tail to sew together the gap between your first and last FHDC, then weave in to finish.
Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!
I recently had a chance to sample some Lion’s Pride Woolspun (by Lion Brand Yarn), and boy, was I impressed!
This #5 bulky weight yarn is awesome. Sold exclusively at Michael’s stores, it’s a sturdy yarn that doesn’t split and shows stitch definition very clearly. I had been looking around for a nice bulky yarn that I could use to make a chunky version of the popular Yenni Slouch, and when I saw this yarn, I knew it would be perfect.
Just look at that stitch definition!
I went a little crazy and designed a matching scarf. It’s big, it’s chunky, and it’s adorable.
Isn’t my model adorable, too? She rocked this photo shoot.
So grab your bigger hooks and join me for a quick, trendy project that will keep your head warm all winter long!
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
RUSTIC SLOUCH
Level: Easy
Size: One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 10.5” across at band, and is 10” tall.
Materials:
N hook (9.00mm) and I hook (5.50mm)
Yarn needle
Lion’s Pride Woolspun (from Lion Brand), 190-200 yards. The color in the photos is Taupe.
*About Lion’s Pride Woolspun: Weight: #5 Bulky Fiber: 80% acrylic, 20% wool
Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 127 yd (116 m)
Button embellishment (mine is 1″)
Gauge: With N hook, a row of 7HDC = 3″ in length.
Abbreviations Used: CH (chain)
SK (skip)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
DC (double crochet)
SC+DC (this just means to put a single crochet and a double crochet in the same stitch)
Special Terminology: 3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect. View a tutorial here.
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) The button is just a decorative embellishment (non-functional).
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
To begin:
Using N Hook, and leaving an 18″ tail, CH21.
Row 1: SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (20)
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (20)
Row 3: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (20)
Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 18 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (20)
Row 5: CH1, turn. Working in 3rd loops, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (20)
Rows 6-44: Repeat Rows 2-5, in order, until you have 44 total rows (you will end with a repeat of Row 4).
Switch to I hook.
Row 45: CH1, DO NOT turn. Begin to SC down the LONG edge of the project, putting 5SC in each section between ribbing rows (see photo below for a visual). You should end up with 55SC. Then, CH8 to create the base of your button flap.
Row 46: Turn your work. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Continue to SC across. (62)
Rows 47-50: CH1, turn. SC across. (62)
Row 51 (edging): CH1, turn. SC across (62). Putting (SC, CH1, SC) in both corners, continue to SC around the edge of the button flap. Stop when you get here:
Sewing the hat together
Fasten off your yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a yarn needle, sew the ends of the hat together. Utilize the 3rd loop of the edge with the HDCs in order to blend the seam in so it is hardly noticeable. (A note: several of you have mentioned that it looks as though I’m seaming with a bit of an overlap according to the photo below. The photo is an unintentional optical illusion; I actually did seam the edges together with no overlap, and the “overlap” you’re seeing is actually the opposite side of the hat. So sorry for the confusion!)
Once you get to the top of the hat, make a knot and weave in the end.
Cinching the top Turn your hat inside out. Use your starting tail to cinch the top of the hat by threading it through a yarn needle and weaving the needle in and out along the top edge of the hat at even intervals. Once you’ve gone all the way around, pull the tail tight and insert your yarn needle across the cinched area a few times to really keep it closed, then make a knot and weave in the end. Turn your hat right-side out again.
Finishing the Button Flap
We still need to sew our button flap in place and attach our button. Using a needle and appropriately-colored thread, position the button flap in place and sew along its 3 edges to secure it. Use your needle and thread to attach your button as well.
Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!
I recently had a chance to sample some Lion’s Pride Woolspun (by Lion Brand Yarn), and boy, was I impressed!
This #5 bulky weight yarn is pretty awesome. Sold exclusively at Michael’s stores, it’s a sturdy yarn that doesn’t split and shows stitch definition very clearly.
I’ve been experimenting with combining some of my favorite stitches and textures, and I’m absolutely thrilled with how this pattern came out!
It’s a double-wrapping scarf, but I think it looks beautiful hanging long, too.
The fringe is optional, but why would you not want it?
And do you want to know the best thing about this pattern?
If the video below doesn’t work for you, please click here.
Video Breakdown:
3:10 – Beginning of Pattern
25:30 – Fringe
31:27 – Buttons
32:08 – Seaming
36:10 – Stitch Appendix
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
THE RUSTIC INFINITY FRINGE SCARF
Level: Easy
Size: Scarf measures 64″ around, and is 7″ wide (not including fringe). These measurements are easily adjustable.
Materials:
N hook (9.00mm)
Yarn needle
Lion’s Pride Woolspun (from Lion Brand), about 400 yards. The color in the photos is Taupe.
*About Lion’s Pride Woolspun: Weight: #5 Bulky Fiber: 80% acrylic, 20% wool
Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 127 yd (116 m)
4 button embellishments (mine are 1″), plus tools to attach buttons (needle, thread)
Gauge: With N hook, a row of 7HDC = 3″ in length.
Abbreviations Used: CH (chain)
SK (skip)
SS (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
DC (double crochet)
SC+DC (this just means to put a single crochet and a double crochet in the same stitch)
Special Terminology: 3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect. Click here for tutorial.
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) The buttons are just a decorative embellishment (non-functional).
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
To begin:
Using N Hook, and leaving a 12″ tail, CH151.
Row 1: SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (150)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (150)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (150)
Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 148 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (150)
Row 5: CH1, turn. Working in 3rd loops, SK 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (150)
Rows 6-16: Repeat Rows 2-5, in order, until you have 16 total rows (you will end with a repeat of Row 4). (150)
Edging We are going to put an edging on only one end of the scarf (it isn’t necessary anywhere else). So, with your hook in the same place you left off on Row 16, CH 1. SC into the same ST again to turn the corner to the short end of the scarf. SC evenly along the edge, putting 4SC in between each ribbing row. When you get to the end of the short edge, finish it off with a CH1 and a SL ST into the same ST as your last SC. Fasten off and weave in your ends.
Fringe We need to cut approximately 75 pieces of yarn for the fringe. Find a sturdy, thin object in your home that measures somewhere between 8-10″. I used my 9″ cutting board and it worked perfectly! Here’s how you make fringe (the numbers correspond to the photos below):
1. Wrap the yarn around the cutting board about 40 times (this will give us a little wiggle room). Wrap it snug, but don’t wrap it crazy-tight. Try to be consistent. 2. Take a good pair of scissors and carefully cut the yarn right down the center of the pile. 3. You now have a pile of yarn approximately 18″ long. Very carefully, fold it in half and cut at the halfway point again. You should now have about 80 strands of yarn. 4. Start at one end of the scarf, on the side where you began the pattern (the CH151 side). Using a crochet hook and one strand of yarn, find the first stitch. Fold the yarn in half and use the hook to pull it halfway through the space created by that first stitch. The two ends of the strand should be poking out the front of the entry point. 5. Remove your hook and insert the two ends of the strand through the loop. 6. Pull tight. 7. Continue down the scarf, adding fringe to every other stitch. This will be easy to spot, because when you did your SC+DCs, they created little spaces. Use the photo for a visual.
Button Embellishments Use your needle and thread to attach the 4 buttons to the front of the short end of the scarf (the one that has the edging!).
Seaming To make this an infinity scarf, we’re going to attach the ends together. Instead of doing a normal seam (where the first row is joined to the last row), we are going to overlap the edge with the buttons over the other end by about 1-2″. This will give the illusion that the buttons are holding it closed. You can use a needle and thread to sew along the edge. (I sewed the bottom layer to the underside of the top layer so that it didn’t disrupt the look of the top piece, because I’m not very good at sewing.) You could also use a sturdy fabric glue, but be sure it’s machine-washable!
That’s it, folks! I was pleasantly surprised at how stunning these stitches looked incorporated into a chunky scarf, and I hope you love it as much as I do!
I had a lot of fun creating these labels for Christmas last year. So I’ve decided to make it a tradition every Christmas to come up with a fun, FREE printable label set.
I hope these make you smile! Just click the image of the gift tags below to download and print. (There’s a set of large labels and a set of small labels.)
Disclaimer: You should only use these labels if both you and your gift recipients have a sense of humor. 😉
I knew I wasn’t done with this stitch pattern yet, and that was reaffirmed to me when I was asked by several of you for a matching scarf pattern!
I’ve been really into fringe lately, and this is my first pattern that includes it.
I’ve been wearing this scarf everywhere. It has great drape and detailing, but the light #3 yarn makes it easy to tuck into a winter coat.
(If #3 yarn scares you like it did me when I was a crochet newbie, you can pretty easily make this scarf with #4 worsted and an appropriately sized hook, too. But I strongly encourage you to give #3 yarn a try. You might fall in love like I did!)
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.
YENNI INFINITY FRINGE SCARF
Level: Easy
Size: Scarf measures 54″ long before seaming, and 6″ wide (not including fringe)
Materials:
H hook (5.00mm) and G hook (4.25mm)
Yarn needle
#3 (light) yarn, about 410-420 yards. I used 2 skeins of Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn (Sport) in “Graybeard”.
Gauge: With H hook, 4HDC = 1″
Stitches Used: CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
DC (double crochet)
SC+DC (this just means to put a single crochet and a double crochet in the same stitch)
Special Terminology: 3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect.
Notes: (1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
To begin:
Using H Hook, and leaving a 12″ tail, CH23.
Row 1: SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (22)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (22)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (22)
Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 20 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (22)
Row 5: CH1, turn. Working in 3rd loops, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (22)
Rows 6-152: Repeat Rows 2-5 in order until you have 152 total rows (or until your scarf measures approximately 54″ long), being sure to end ona repeat of Row 4. (This will help the seam look the most natural.) Fasten off your yarn and weave in the end.
Seaming Bring the two ends of the scarf together, being careful to not twist it. Use your starting tail to whip stitch them together, utilizing the 3rd loop of the final row in order to hide the seam. Weave in the remainder of the tail securely.
Switch to G hook.
Top Band, Round 1: With G hook, reattach your yarn at the seam; CH1. SC evenly around the scarf, putting 5SC between each ribbed row, as shown below. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST.
Top Band, Rounds 2-8: CH1, turn. SC around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Fringe
We need to cut approximately 80 pieces of yarn for the fringe. Find a sturdy, thin object in your home that measures somewhere between 8-10″. I used my 9″ cutting board and it worked perfectly! Here’s how you make fringe (the numbers correspond to the photos below):
1. Wrap the yarn around the cutting board about 45 times (this will give us a little wiggle room). Wrap it snug, but don’t wrap it crazy-tight. Try to be consistent. 2. Take a good pair of scissors and carefully cut the yarn right down the center of the pile. 3. You now have a pile of yarn approximately 18″ long. Very carefully, fold it in half and cut at the halfway point again. You should now have about 90 strands of yarn. 4. Choose a starting point at the bottom of one of the ribbed rows. Using a crochet hook and one strand of yarn, fold the yarn in half and use the hook to pull it halfway through the scarf (right at the bottom). The two ends of the strand should be poking out the front of the entry point. 5. Remove your hook and insert the two ends of the strand through the loop. 6. Pull tight. 7. Continue around the scarf, adding fringe at every two rows (so you’ll add fringe at every ribbed row, as well as halfway between each ribbed row). Use the photo for a visual.
That’s it! Enjoy your cute new infinity scarf, and don’t forget to make the matching hat and boot cuffs!
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