Author: rebecca

Sock Monkey Hat

It’s finally done!

I wish I could put into words for you what the completion of this pattern means to me. Not only is this the first multi-sized pattern I’ve created, but it’s also the first hat I ever made for my littlest monkey (although it has admittedly improved over the last couple of years).

I am crazy excited to debut this hat. C-R-A-Z-Y.

I’m going to share the 6-12 month size with you here, for free, because you rock. Seriously, I never thought I could actually be a blogger, but you guys have supported, encouraged, and challenged me (in a good way!) every step of the way.

Get the Full Pattern

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SOCK MONKEY HAT (SIZE 6-12 MONTHS)

Finished Size: Approximately 8.25″ wide x 5.75″ tall
Stitches Used: Ch, Sl St, SC, HDC, SC2TOG, HDC2TOG
Yarn: 3 colors of medium worsted, plus small amount of black and red for mouth (I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn)
Hooks: Size I (5.50mm) for base, and size H (5.00mm) for features
Notes: Pattern is written in American standard terms.
Gauge: With 5.5mm (US I-9) hook, 4 rounds = 3.5 in (9 cm). CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge.

The Ch1 at the beginning of rounds DOES NOT count as a stitch.

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BASE (WORKED IN THE ROUND)

With I HOOK and COLOR A, begin with a Magic Circle (MC).

Round 1: Ch 1; 9 HDC in MC. Join with Sl St to top of first HDC. (9)
Round 2: Ch 1; HDC in same St. 2 HDC in next 9 Sts. Join with Sl St to top of first HDC. (19)
Round 3: Ch 1; HDC in same St, HDC in next St. (2 HDC in next St, HDC in next St) around. CHANGE TO COLOR B. Join with Sl St to top of first HDC. (29)
Round 4: Ch 1; HDC in same St, HDC in next 2 Sts. (2 HDC in next St, HDC in next 2 Sts) around. CHANGE TO COLOR C. Join with Sl St to top of first HDC. (39)
Rounds 5-10: Ch 1; HDC around. Join with Sl St to top of first HDC. (39)

DO NOT fasten off; continue to “Earflaps” instructions.

EARFLAPS (WORKED IN ROWS)

With I HOOK and COLOR C,

Row 1: Sl St in 8 Sts, Ch 1, SC in same St and in next 6 Sts; Ch 1, turn. (7)
Row 2: SC across; Ch 1, turn. (7)
Row 3: SC across; Ch 1, turn. (7)
Row 4: SC2TOG, SC in next 3 St, SC2TOG; Ch 1, turn. (5)
Row 5: HDC2TOG, DC, HDC2TOG (3)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

To complete 2^nd earflap, beginning at the base of the first earflap (the opposite side from which you started), and continuing on across the front of the hat, count over 15 Sts. Attach yarn. Ch 1, SC in same St and in next 6 Sts; Ch 1, turn. Repeat Rows 2-5 above.

DO NOT fasten off; continue on to “Edging” instructions.

EDGING (WORKED IN THE ROUND)

With I HOOK and COLOR C,

Round 1: Ch 1. SC in same St and in each St around, working evenly along sides of earflaps, and including an extra SC at the tip of each earflap. Join with a Sl St into the first SC. Fasten off; weave in ends.
Round 2: Switch to COLOR B. Attach yarn to a St at the back of the hat; Ch1. SC in same St and in each St around, adding an extra SC at the tip of each earflap. Join with a Sl St into the first SC. Fasten off; weave in ends.

EARS (MAKE 2)

With H HOOK and COLOR C, begin with a Magic Circle (MC).

Round 1: Ch 1; 8 SC in MC. Join with Sl St to top of first SC. (8)
Round 2: Ch 1; HDC in same St. 2 SC in next 7 Sts. Join with Sl St to top of first SC. (15)
Round 3: Ch 1; HDC in next 15 Sts. Join with Sl St to top of first HDC. (15)

Fasten off, leaving a 6 inch tail for attaching to hat.

MOUTH

With H HOOK and COLOR A, Ch 9.

Round 1: 2 SC in 2^nd Ch from hook. SC in next 6 Chs. 4 SC in last Ch. Continuing along the other side, SC in bottom of next 6 Chs. 2 SC in bottom of remaining Ch. Join with Sl St to top of first SC. (20)
Round 2: Ch 1; 2 SC in same St. SC in next 8 Sts. 2 SC in next 2 Sts. SC in next 8 Sts. 2 SC in next St. Join with Sl St to top of first SC. (24)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for attaching to hat.

MOUTH DETAILS

Cut an 18” piece of red yarn (or other lip color of your choice). Sew on the lips, following the horizontal line that is one line below the center of the mouth. For a “smiling” monkey, follow the natural curve around each side, as shown below. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Cut a 12” piece of black yarn (or other nostril color of your choice). Find the vertical center of the mouth and sew a small “x” on either side. Fasten off and weave in ends.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

Mouth: Place so that the bottom of the mouth rests just above the second-to-last row of the hat (so you should be able to see the edging and one row of the main color below the mouth). Make sure it is centered, and use the long tail to sew it on.

Ears: Using long tail, attach ears on either side of hat. Each ear should be attached to rows 7-9.

Eyes: Using thread and a sewing needle, attach two ½ inch buttons just above the mouth, so that their inner edges line up with the centers of each nostril.

Weave in any remaining ends. Attach pom pom and/or tassels (optional).

September 1, 2014
Wildflower Afghan
It’s finally finished! My very first granny square afghan. And I think I’m in love.

This really shouldn’t have taken me as long as it did. Way back in early July, when I posted the pattern for the Wildflower Granny Square, I’m pretty sure I made a few empty promises that I’d be posting the finished blanket within a week or so. But I have to be honest — I do not like repetition in crochet. When I make a new pattern, I’m pretty content to never make it again. (Fall and Winter are torturous for me with all of the sock monkey and polar bear hats I sell on Etsy.) So when I started making the squares for this blanket, the first few were fun. The next ones, and the ones after that, not so much.

But wow, what a feeling of accomplishment when I did finally complete them and started stitching my blanket together! I mean, seriously. I was so excited.

This particular afghan is a gift for a dear friend who is having a baby girl in November. If you follow my blog, you know that our family is relocating to Michigan in a couple of weeks. I’m pretty distraught that I’m not going to be around when Baby R. is born, and I couldn’t move without leaving something special for her. So, by the time you’re reading this, I’ll have already surprised her mommy with the blanket. I hope she loves it!

And, much to my surprise, now that this blanket is finally complete, I’m finding myself kind-of-sort-of wanting to make another one for myself. We’ve purchased a home in our new town, and I’ve already decided on the colors of the living room: chocolate brown and tan, with bright teal accents. I think that a Wildflower Afghan with those colors, draped over our dark brown couch, would be eye-catching and beautiful. Here’s a walk-thru list of how I created this afghan.

THE SQUARES

For the squares, I of course used my free pattern for Wildflower Granny Squares. For the blanket pictured above, which measures 28″x34″, you’ll need to make the following:
- (10) white squares with pink and yellow flowers (Bernat Satin “Snow” and “Banana”, and Caron Simply Soft “Strawberry”)
- (3) blue squares with white and green flowers (Bernat Satin “Lagoon” and “Snow”, and Caron Simply Soft “Mint”)
- (3) green squares, with white and green flowers (Bernat Satin “Snow” and Caron Simply Soft “Mint”)
- (2) purple squares, with white and green flowers (Bernat Satin “Snow” and “Lavender”, and Caron Simply Soft “Mint”)
- (2) yellow squares, with white and green flowers (Bernat Satin “Snow” and “Banana”, and Caron Simply Soft “Mint”)
THE JOINING METHOD

I single crocheted my squares together. I knew from the very beginning that this was how I wanted to do it; I love the look of the raised edges, and I think it perfectly compliments the raised flowers. Since I’d never actually done it before, I referred to this tutorial by Repeat Crafter Me. I added one SC in each corner section.

THE EDGING

And last but not least — the edging! I started with a couple rounds of white SC, adding (SC+Ch1+SC) in each corner. Then, to make it even a little more girly, I added a white row of DC ruffles (3 DC in each stitch, with 5 in each corner). It took a while to get around, but it was worth it. (Although if I were making this for someone other than a child, I would have left the ruffles off.)

That’s it!

Of course, the color combination possibilities are endless. Whatever colors you choose, I know you’ll end up with an afghan that’s really going to stand out. Be sure to send me your finished photos!
August 25, 2014
Sparkly Buttoned Cowl

Whew! It’s been a while since I’ve published a free pattern. Our family is getting ready for a big move, and most days it’s all I can do to keep up with the packing and planning!

This pattern is one I’ve “seen” in my mind for a while now, and I finally had the chance to work it out on paper and make a sample. Ever since I created the Sweet Ocean Breeze Baby Blanket pattern, I’ve known that the stitch combo would make a beautiful scarf. And now that summer is winding down and I’m starting to think about Christmas presents, I’ve decided it’s time to start shifting my focus to my favorite time of year. Because one thing you’ll learn about me, if you’re new around here, is that I. Love. Scarves. I LOVE them! But enough about me.

This elegant cowl is made with 2 strands of Vanna’s Choice Glamour in Platinum, held together. You’ll need 4 skeins total. Vanna’s Choice Glamour yarn has a reflective thread running through it, which gives this cowl a gorgeous, sparkly finish. It’s a fun, beginner-friendly sport weight yarn, and you can purchase it here! Throw the finished cowl over a dark-colored shirt or dress and you’re ready to go.—

Also, here’s a helpful video demonstrating how to actually wear the cowl. Sometimes it’s just easier to see someone put it on. 🙂

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Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

SPARKLY BUTTONED COWL

Finished Size: Approximately 29″ long by 12″ wide
Stitches Used: Ch, SC, DC
Yarn: Category 2 Sport Weight, 2 strands held together (I used 4 skeins of Vanna’s Choice Glamour in Platinum, available here)
Hook: Size K (6.5mm)
Buttons: 1″-1.25″ (2 of them). I used Cut-Outs #2404 from Joann Fabrics.
Notes: Pattern is written in American standard terms.

To begin: Holding 2 strands together, Ch 79.

Row 1: In 3rd Ch from hook, 1SC + 1DC. (Skip next St; 1 SC + 1 DC in next St) across.

Row 2: Ch2; turn. (Skip next St; 1 SC + 1 DC in next St) across. (Hint: You are working between the SC+DC pairings from the previous row. If you stretch out the row a bit, you’ll be able to see the small spaces in which you’ll be working. The last two stitches will go in the Ch2 space from the previous row.)

Rows 3-30: Repeat row 2.

Row 31: Ch 1; turn. (Skip next St; 2 SC in next St) across. (You are still working between the SC+DC pairings from the previous row; but note the switch to all SCs in this row.)

Row 32: Ch 1; turn. SC across.

Rows 33-36: Repeat row 32.

Row 37 (buttonhole): Ch 1; turn. SC in first 2 Sts. Ch 1; Sk 1 St. SC in each remaining St.

Row 38: Ch 1; turn. SC across, including 1 SC in the Ch1 space from the previous row.

Rows 39-40: Ch 1; turn. SC across. Finish off; weave in all ends. Use photos to help you place buttons.

Lay your scarf flat, with the buttonhole at the top left corner. Your first button should be sewn 1 inch (both sides) from the bottom right corner; your second button should be sewn 6 inches from the right edge, 1 inch from the bottom edge (in line with the first button).

To wear: It can feel a bit tricky at first, but the easiest way to visualize how to wear the cowl is to button it before you put it on. The button that is NOT in the corner is the button that will go through the buttonhole. Once you’ve joined those together, you can slip the corner button through whichever part of the scarf you want to achieve your desired look. (For the photo at the top of the post, I inserted the corner button about halfway down the left edge of the cowl (and by left edge, I am referring to the one on the left in the button photo just above.) Enjoy!

August 18, 2014
Wildflower Granny Square

Up until a few weeks ago, I’d never made a granny square. It’s a category of crochet that I hadn’t gotten around to trying yet. But, as I’m getting a little tired of making striped blankets, I just felt like it was time to change things up a bit and try something new.

After taking a look at different free patterns offered, I came to realize that there is really nothing complicated about a granny square. Like all crochet patterns, it’s simply a matter of math and angles, which is how my brain likes to work. So, for my very first granny square, I decided to just go ahead and design my own!

I’ll be joining these together once I’ve made enough (join method TBD), and I’ll release the pattern for a full blanket soon. But for now, here’s a simple pattern for a modern granny square that will brighten any room.

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UPDATE: It’s finished! Click here to see the Wildflower Afghan.
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WILDFLOWER GRANNY SQUARE

Finished Size: About 5.5″ square
Stitches Used: Ch, Sl St, SC, HDC, DC
Yarn: Medium worsted (I used Bernat Satin)
Hook: Size H (5.00mm)
Notes: (1)Pattern is written in American standard terms. (2)The square is built around the flower (so the flower will not need to be attached at the end). (3)Beginning chains DO count as the first stitch in the final row count, HOWEVER, when joining, you’ll slip stitch to the top of the first TRUE stitch (not the chain).

FLOWER:

With the color you want your center to be, begin with a Magic Circle (or Adjustable Ring).

Round 1: Ch1 (counts as HDC). 11 HDC in magic circle. Attach a new color for petals, and join with a Sl St to top of 1st true HDC (not the chain). Fasten off first color. (12 HDC)

Round 2 (work in BLO): Ch2 (counts as DC). DC in same st. 2 DC in each stitch around (24 DC)

Round 3 (work in FLO): Ch2. DC in same. DC in next; Ch2 and Sl St to same st as last DC; this is your first petal. (Sl St to next st. Ch 2. DC in same. DC in next. Ch2 and Sl St to same st as last DC) around, for a total of 12 petals. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

SQUARE:

Attach yarn via one of the loops on the back side of the finished flower. (Remember in Round 3 when we worked in FLO? The loop we didn’t use is the loop we’re using now.)

Round 4: Ch3 (counts as DC). DC in same St. 2 DC in each remaining St around. Join to top of first true DC. (48 DC)

Round 5: Ch3 (counts as DC). (In next St, 2DC + Ch2 + 2DC. DC in next St. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. SC in each of the next 3 Sts. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. DC in next St) around, with your final DC being the Ch3 from the beginning of the round. Join to top of 1st true DC.

Round 6: Ch3. DC in each St around; (2DC+Ch2+2DC) in each corner. Join with a Sl St to top of 1st true DC.

Each side should consist of 15 DC, not including the DCs that make up the corners.

Round 7: Ch3. DC in each St around; (2DC+Ch2+2DC) in each corner. Join with a Sl St to top of 1st true DC. Fasten off; weave in ends. DONE!

Each side should consist of 19 DC, not including the DCs that make up the corners.

July 7, 2014
Striped Mug Cozy

STRIPED MUG COZY

Finished Size: About 10” long (not including small “bridge” connector piece) and 3” tall. Fits standard 10-11” circumference mugs.
Gauge: 9 rows of 8 SC each will make a 2” square
Stitches Used: Ch, SC, Sl St
Yarn: Approx. .7oz of your favorite lighter-medium worsted weight yarn (I used Bernat Satin in “Lagoon”).
Button: One button, 1” diameter
Hook: Size H (5.00mm)
Notions: Yarn needle for weaving in ends. You may sew button on with yarn and appropriately sized needle, or you may use a needle and appropriately colored thread.
Notes Pattern is written in American standard terms. Pattern is worked in repeating groups of two rows, alternating colors. You do not need to cut the yarn as you go; carry it up to the next time you use it. The edging will hide the carried yarn. In the photo above, Color A = white and Color B = blue.

Pattern

Ch 11.

Row 1: With Color A, SC in 2^nd Ch from hook; SC in each St across (10 SC)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across (10 SC)

Row 3: Attach Color B. Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across (10 SC)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across (10 SC)

Row 5: Switch to Color A. Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across (10 SC)

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across (10 SC)

Row 7: Switch to Color B. Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across (10 SC)

Row 8: Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across (10 SC)

Rows 9-38: Repeat instructions for Rows 5-8. You will end on Color A. Continue to Edging.

Edging, Button Loop & Bridge
Switch to Color B (you no longer need Color A). Ch 1; turn. SC in next 9 Sts. 2 SC in next (corner) St. Working along first long edge, SC evenly across. (HINT: Adding a SC for every row will result in an overcrowded edging. So instead, add 2 SCs in each white section, and 1 in each blue section across.) After your SC into the corner, Ch 18. Sl St back into the same corner St to form a loop. SC across short edge. Ch 4. Bring your cozy around (as though it’s wrapped around an imaginary mug) and Sl St to the corner of the opposite end of the cozy (see photo) to form a “bridge”. SC back across the bridge. Continue to SC evenly across the remaining long edge (see HINT above). Join with a Sl St to the bridge (see photo). Fasten off; weave in ends.

Button
Using yarn or thread of your choice, attach 1” button to cozy on the opposite end from the buttonhole loop. The center of the button should sit 3/4” from the short edge of the cozy, and 3/4” from the top (long) edge.

June 12, 2014
Midwife Blanket

Please note: There is a version of this blanket floating around that has red stripes with added heart-shaped sections. I’m getting a lot of questions about where that pattern is (I’ve even seen pattern roundups that show that blanket but link directly here). It’s not my blanket, and I do not have the pattern variation for you here. Sorry!

A Little Background

This pattern has quite a story behind it – more so than I realized when I first published it!

Back in 2014 (when I was blogging under the name “Little Monkeys Crochet”) I was watching one of my favorite tv shows, Call the Midwife, and spotted the most beautiful single-colored baby blanket.

After an online search yielded no results, I immediately set out to figure out the pattern on my own. It gave me a run for my money but I finally finished it, published it on my blog, and the crochet world went a little crazy for it!

Quite some time later, I started to get an occasional comment here and there from someone who was so excited to discover my pattern because their mom (or grandma or aunt) had crocheted them this blanket decades ago and now they had a pattern for it! It wasn’t too much longer before the origins of this show prop were discovered: an old, out-of-print Patons & Baldwins Limited (UK) Booklet from years ago!

It was a fun discovery, but also a bit of a sad one, as I realized (perhaps later than I should have) that I had deconstructed someone else’s pattern, rewritten it, and published it on my own blog. I’m not sure why I didn’t realize this sooner – perhaps it was partly because I was a new blogger and hadn’t really thought through the legal or ethical issues of doing so, or perhaps it was because I saw the blanket on a TV show, in a pretend world, and it didn’t even cross my mind that there would be an actual real-life pattern out there for it. It’s probably a little of both.

This story does have a happy ending, though! Once it was clear where the pattern had originated, I sat down to write to the publisher who owned the rights. I explained the entire situation and timeline, apologized profusely, and offered to remove the pattern from my blog. Much to my surprise and delight, they responded with the utmost kindness and gave me permission to leave it be, enabling thousands of people to continue using it!

And so, this pattern remains on my blog with the permission of Yarnspirations, who now owns Patons. That’s a happy ending, I’d say!

THE MIDWIFE BLANKET

Hook: G (4.25mm)
Yarn: Light (DK). I used approximately 1,000 yards of Bernat Softee Baby Yarn in Antique White.
Difficulty: Easy
Crochet Language: American Standard Terms (I would have written it in UK, in honor of the fact that the show is from there, but I don’t know how…) 🙂
Finished Size: Approx. 30″ x 35″ (You can easily increase or decrease the size by adding to your starting Ch; just make sure you start with a multiple of 16, plus 6)

Notes:
(1) Because of the design, which is created by the use of skipped stitches, you’ll be crocheting into those stitches often. It’s up to you whether you crochet into the Ch, or the space created by it. I chose to crochet into the Ch itself because I felt it would give my rows a steadier look. Just note going into it that each of those skipped stitches still counts as a stitch for the row that follows it. So if it tells you to “DC in next 6 sts”, and there are only 4 DCs from the previous row followed by a space that was created by chains, you’ll need to put the last 2 DC into those chains (or the chain space, if you prefer).

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To Begin: Ch 118.

Row 1: DC in 6th Ch from hook. (Ch 1, Sk 1 St, DC in next St) across. Ch 4; turn.

Row 2: Sk first 2 Sts, DC in next 15 Sts, including Ch 1s from previous row. (Ch 1; Sk 1 St. DC in next 15 Sts) 6 more times. Ch 1, Sk 1 St, DC in next St (which is part of the Ch 4 from previous row). Ch 4; turn.

Row 3: Sk first 2 Sts, DC in next 6 Sts, Ch 3, Sk 3 Sts, DC in next 6 Sts. (Ch 1; Sk 1 St. DC in next 6 Sts. Ch 3, Sk 3 Sts. DC in next 6 Sts) 6 more times. Ch 1; DC in next St (which is part of the Ch 4 from previous row). Ch 4; turn.

Row 4: Sk first 2 Sts, DC in next 4 Sts, Ch 3, Sk 3 Sts, SLIP STITCH into next St, Ch 3, Sk 3 Sts, DC in next 4 Sts. (Ch 1; Sk 1 St. DC in next 4 Sts, Ch 3, Sk 3 Sts, SLIP STITCH into next St, Ch 3, Sk 3 Sts, DC in next 4 Sts) 6 more times. Ch 1; DC in next St (which is part of the Ch 4 from previous row). Ch 4; turn.

Row 5: Sk first 2 Sts, DC in next 6 Sts (don’t forget to include the Chs from the previous row in your count!), Ch 3, Sk 3 Sts, DC in next 6 Sts. (Ch 1; Sk 1 St. DC in next 6 Sts. Ch 3, Sk 3 Sts. DC in next 6 Sts) 6 more times. Ch 1; DC in next St (which is part of the Ch 4 from previous row). Ch 4; turn.

Row 6: Sk first 2 Sts, DC in next 15 Sts. (Ch 1; Sk 1 St. DC in next 15 Sts) 6 more times. Ch 1; DC in next St (which is part of the Ch 4 from previous row). Ch 4; turn.

Row 7: Sk first 2 Sts. DC in next. (Ch 1, Sk 1 St, DC in next St) across. Ch 4; turn.

You’ve completed one row of rectangles. To continue your blanket, repeat rows 2-7 10 more times for a stroller blanket, or as many anavar for sale as you want to achieve desired length. At the end of your final row, do not Ch 4, but continue to “Edging”.

Edging You will be working along the little boxes that line the perimeter of your blanket, using two of them together to create a scalloped edge. Ch 1. SC + DC into first space. DC into the stitch that divides the two spaces. DC + SC into second space. This completes 1 scallop. (Sk next dividing st. SC + DC into next space. DC into the stitch that divides the two spaces. DC + SC into second space.) Repeat () all the way around the blanket (I added an extra DC when working in the corners).

Depending on how many rows of rectangles you chose to do, you may end up with a leftover box at the end, like I did. I simply improvised and made a 3-box scallop at the end. There’s probably a better way to figure that out, but I’m not above a little improvisation to get a job done. 😉 Fasten off; weave in ends.

June 5, 2014
Sweet Ocean Breeze Baby Blanket (Original Version)

Hey there! If you’re discovering this blanket for the first time, please click here for the updated version. The post you are currently on is the original version, which I’m keeping up only for those who were mid-pattern when I made my updates. I’m also closing comments on this version.

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Sweet Ocean Breeze Baby Blanket (Original Version)

New to this pattern? Please click here for the updated version!

Hook: I (5.50mm)
Yarn: Bernat Satin in Sandstone (250 yards, or 2 skeins), Lagoon (140 yards, or 1 skein), and Snow (280 yards, or 2 skeins).
Difficulty: Easy
Finished Size: Approx. 34″x26″ (You can easily increase or decrease the size by adding to your starting Ch; just make sure you start with an odd number of Ch)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) When working in rows, I usually do my starting chain and first row in a hook one size bigger than the pattern asks for. I tend to chain tightly, which pulls at the finished project if I don’t use a larger hook to start. You can do the same if you wish. It is not noted in the pattern.
(3) “SC+DC” just means to put both a single crochet stitch and a double crochet stitch in the same place.

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To Begin: Ch103.

Row 1: In 3rd Ch from hook, 1SC + 1DC. (Skip next St; 1 SC + 1 DC in next St) across.

Row 2: Ch2; turn. (Skip next St; 1 SC + 1 DC in next St) across. (Hint: You are working between the SC+DC pairings from the previous row. If you stretch out the row a bit, you’ll be able to see the small spaces in which you’ll be working. The last two stitches will go in the Ch2 space from the previous row.)

Rows 3-76: Repeat row 2.

Fasten off; weave in ends.

April 18, 2014
Dishcloth

I’ve sort of gotten obsessed with a certain stitch pattern over the past few weeks. Ever since I made the Market Tote Bag, I’ve been thinking of other ways to use the (1 SC + 1 DC) combo. I really love how such simple concepts can make such beautiful things.

Well, as I was working on the Sweet Ocean Breeze Baby Blanket, I started thinking that the stitch combo would make a great dish cloth. It’s relatively tight, and offers a pretty textured pattern. That, and some cotton yarn, are about all you need for a good dishcloth pattern!

The Yarn
I used Sugar & Cream in Yellow and Country Stripes for the two examples in my photos. You can find Sugar & Cream yarn on Amazon if you don’t have a craft store nearby (bless your heart).

I also made two different sizes; one is 9″x9″, which is the size I prefer my dishcloths to be, and the other is about 7″x7″, which is more standard from what I’ve seen of others’ patterns and finished items on sites like Etsy. The pattern below is for the 7″x7″ dishcloth; to make it closer to 9″x9″, you should Ch29 to begin.

The “Handmade with Special Care” wrapper you can see in the photo is available as a free download right here.

DISHCLOTH

Hook: I (5.50mm)
Yarn: Worsted Cotton. I used Sugar & Cream in “Yellow” and “Country Stripes” for the examples in the photos above.
Difficulty: Beginner-Easy
Finished Size: Approx. 7″x7″ (You can easily increase or decrease the size by adding to your starting Ch; just make sure you start with an odd number of Ch)

Notes:
When working in rows, I usually do my starting chain and first row in a hook one size bigger than the pattern asks for. I tend to chain tightly, which pulls at the finished project if I don’t use a larger hook to start. You can do the same if you wish. It is not noted in the pattern.

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To Begin: Ch23.

Row 1: In 3rd Ch from hook, 1SC + 1DC. (Skip next St; 1 SC + 1 DC in next St) across.

Row 2: Ch2; turn. (Skip next St; 1 SC + 1 DC in next St) across. (Note: You are working between the SC+DC pairings from the previous row. If you stretch out the row a bit, you’ll be able to see the small spaces in which you’ll be working. The last stitches will go in the Ch2 space from the previous row.)

Rows 3-20: Repeat row 2.

Edging: Ch 1. SC around the dishcloth, adding 3 SC in each corner. Fasten off; weave in ends.

April 17, 2014
Sweet Ocean Breeze Baby Blanket
Bummer of an update:
Bernat has discontinued both Sandstone and Lagoon. However, they still have a gorgeous line of colors in the Bernat Satin collection that you can choose from!

11/13/15: Occasionally, the time comes to update a pattern.

It’s not lost on me that although many of you have successfully completed this blanket without issue, there is also a significant number of you who are convinced that the pattern doesn’t work. Clearly something is getting lost in translation, and although I’m not exactly sure what it is, I am not above trying to make my patterns better and better. I am, after all, only human… and there will always be room for growth.

It has dawned on me recently that I’ve released some other patterns using this same stitch, just worded a bit differently, and there hasn’t been any confusion on those patterns. So, I’m re-writing this pattern in the exact same language that was used for those patterns. (If you’re wondering: the only significant changes, other than re-wording, are a CH1 at the beginning of rows (instead of the original CH2), and I also left out the part about putting the last stitches in the CH2 space. It was more confusing than I meant for it to be, and it’s not necessary to make the pattern work.)

If you were in the middle of making this blanket, and didn’t have a problem with the previous version, click here to view it in its original wording.

I’ve also gone ahead and deleted many of the comments for the pattern because they were getting pretty confusing, some of them were wrong, and frankly, they just won’t apply to this new version and I don’t want to confuse new visitors even more. Nothing wrong with starting fresh. 🙂

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SWEET OCEAN BREEZE BABY BLANKET

Hook: I (5.50mm)
Yarn: Bernat Satin in Sandstone (250 yards, or 2 skeins), Lagoon (140 yards, or 1 skein), and Snow (280 yards, or 2 skeins).
Difficulty: Easy
Finished Size: Approx. 34″x26″ (You can easily increase or decrease the size by adding to your starting Ch; just make sure you start with an odd number of Ch)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) When working in rows, I usually do my starting chain and first row in a hook one size bigger than the pattern asks for. I tend to chain tightly, which pulls at the finished project if I don’t use a larger hook to start. You can do the same if you wish. It is not noted in the pattern.
(3) “SC+DC” just means to put both a single crochet stitch and a double crochet stitch in the same place.

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To begin: CH103.

Row 1: SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (102)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (102)

Rows 3-76: Repeat Row 2.

– – – – – –

Here’s how I ordered my colors for the blanket in the example, using Bernat Satin yarn:
- Sandstone x4 rows
- Snow x4
- Lagoon x4
- Snow x4
- Sandstone x8
- Snow x4
- Lagoon x4
- Snow x4
Repeat all of the above, in order, one more time.

Finish with a final section of Sandstone x4.
April 17, 2014
How To Make Wool Dryer Balls
I have a fun, easy, practical tutorial for you guys today, and it doesn’t even involve crocheting!

I’ve been wanting to give these DIY wool dryer balls a try for a while. I ran out of dryer sheets last week, so I knew now was the time to learn.

Did you know that wool dryer balls last up to a year or more, making your clothes soft and static-free and reducing your energy costs by helping your clothing dry faster? You’ll never have to buy dryer sheets again! Paired with your favorite homemade laundry detergent, you will have a recipe for some SERIOUS money-saving DIY. (That’s my favorite kind of DIY!)

So to begin, you’ll need a few basic things:
- 100% wool yarn (MUST be 100%, no blends. I used Hobby Lobby’s “I Love This Wool Naturals.” It’s 220 yards and I had enough for two balls from each skein, with a little left over.)
- Scissors
- Yarn needle
- Old tights or nylons
- NON-wool yarn or string (just a small amount for tying up your nylons, but it’s important that it’s NOT wool this time)
- Your washer and dryer
The first thing you’ll need to do is wrap your yarn into tight balls. (Think every kitten’s dream toy.) I know many of you do this with all of your yarn after you purchase it, but I don’t, so if it’s new to you, here are some easy steps (photos below):
1. Roll yarn around three fingers, about 15 times.
2. Remove the yarn from fingers and wrap 5 times around the middle. (It should look like a little bow.)
3. Fold the bow over on itself.
4. Begin to wrap the yarn around the base you’ve just created. Wrap, turn slightly, wrap, turn slightly, etc, to form a ball. Don’t worry if it’s not perfectly shaped all the way through – you’ve got a lot of yarn to work with and a lot of time to shape it nicely. Look at it from different angles as you go, and try to wrap the yarn so that a nice sphere is formed. Do this until your ball is about 2.5″ tall, or approximately the size of a tennis ball.
5. Leaving a 10″ (or so) tail, cut the yarn. Thread it through your yarn needle. Insert your yarn needle into the ball, going in the same direction as that piece of yarn would naturally go, and “skim” the ball by about 1/2 an inch, bringing the yarn needle out the other side (see photo below). Continue to do this around the ball 3-4 more times.
6. Snip the yarn at the surface of the ball. You’re ready to begin the felting process!
Your dryer balls should be about the size of a tennis ball when you’re done rolling them.

Now we need to put the balls through the “felting” process. Felting is the process of fusing together the wool strands to create a sturdy ball that (hopefully) won’t unravel even after hundreds of wild rides in your dryer. Lucky for us, this is an easy process, and all you’ll need are nylons, string, and your washer and dryer!

The Felting Process
1. Put the first dryer ball into the leg of your nylons, all the way to the bottom. Tie a piece of NON-wool string or yarn around the nylons so that the ball is tight and snug. (If you were to use a wool yarn here, you’d end up felting that too, and your dryer balls would probably be ruined.)
2. Add the next ball and do the same thing, until all of your dryer balls are safe in the nylons.
3. Throw the balls in your washing machine and run a full cycle on HOT. (This is also a great time to get your towels washed, because they can handle the heat, and it won’t affect the dryer balls at all!)
4. After the wash cycle, run them through the dryer on HOT (again, your towels can join them).
5. When you remove them from the dryer, you’ll notice that they are a bit more compact. This is good! Now, repeat steps 3 and 4 one more time to finish the felting process.
6. Remove balls from nylons.
That’s it! Now that they’ve felted, you don’t need to wash them anymore. Just leave 4 or 5 of them in your dryer to use with every future load of laundry. You can even add a few drops of your favorite essential oil (if you want) to give your clean laundry an amazing smell!

I was so excited about these wool dryer balls that I decided to make a bunch of them and give them to my mom and older sisters. (The little sis will definitely be getting some when she heads off to college soon!) We are all getting together this weekend for a freezer cooking party (yay!), so I think that’s a perfect time to gift them. It will be one big money-saving weekend. How fun is that?

Let me know how your wool dryer ball process goes!
April 11, 2014