Would you believe I’ve never made a baby blanket before?

I mean, I’ve tried. I’ve started them. I’ve tried to stick with it. I’ve given up more than a few times.

It’s not because they’re hard to make; you can find baby blanket patterns for any skill level. They’re just so… big. And I’ve mentioned before that I have an incredibly short attention span. I can’t even finish a dishcloth without starting another project. My workspace is covered in half-finished items. (And by “workspace”, I am referring to the 6′ chest freezer in my dining room. I don’t know what’s weirder, the fact that my workspace is a chest freezer in my dining room, or the fact that I even have a chest freezer in my dining room. But whatever.)

But, I’m also much quicker with crochet than I was before. As with anything, we get better the more we practice, right? And, even more importantly… my friends are having BABIES! Over the next few months, there will be a few new tiny bundles of joy for me to hold and love on and crochet for. So, with winter over (that’s according to the calendar, not the inch of snow I can see from my window right now), it’s time to set aside my crazy love of scarves and start focusing on all things baby. Starting with some blankets!

This first one is simple and soft, but makes a modern statement with its bold colors and ridged lines. If you can do a double crochet, you can make this blanket, and you’ll be the talk of the baby shower!

A note for the experienced crocheter: This pattern is simply rows of DCs worked in back loops only, with an edging of 1 row each of SC and DC (4 to a corner). I have included all of my color changes in the pattern below, but the detailed nature of that pattern might drive you nuts. I’ve included a “shortcut” version below the pattern that you might prefer if you are sticking to my color choices.

I used 2 beautiful colors from Bernat Satin for this project. You can purchase it here! 

 

MY FIRST BABY BLANKET

Hook: I (5.50mm)
Yarn: Soft worsted weight. I used a few different brands, which you have to be careful doing, because not all worsted weight yarn is the same (especially when you’re dealing with baby yarn). But these worked out fine for me:

• Color A: White (Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn)  Approx. 210 yards
• Color B: Soft Fern (Bernat Satin – affiliate link) Approx. 140 yards
• Color C: Lagoon (Bernat Satin – affiliate link) Approx. 140 yards
• Color D: Strawberry (Caron Simply Soft) Approx. 140 yards
• Color E: Grey Mist (Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn) Approx. 70 yards

Difficulty: Beginner-Easy
Finished Size: Approx. 26″x30″

Notes:

• Ch 2 does NOT count as starting DC.
• I’m writing the pattern according to my color changes, but you can plan out the blanket any way you want. It’s just row after row of DCs in back loops only. Be creative!
• This blanket is worked in BACK LOOPS ONLY after the first row. I don’t put this on each and every row’s instructions.
• I’ve been asked how I get such straight edges. My trick is that when I Ch2 at the beginning of a new row, I make my first DC in the NEXT stitch. Then at the end of the row, when it seems like I’m out of stitches but need to make one more, I make it in the Ch 2 knot from the previous row. This technique provides a nice straight edge. I promise I’ll do a photo tutorial soon. 😉

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With Color A,

Row 1: FDC 94.
(FDC = Foundationless Double Crochet. I swear by this method and I have an awesome tutorial here. It’s faster and easier than chaining the first row. If you don’t feel like learning it right now, you can also complete this row by chaining 96, then DC in 3rd ch from hook and DC across.)

Switch to Color B.
The rest of this blanket, until you get to the edging, is worked in the BACK LOOPS ONLY.

Rows 2-6: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

Switch to Color A

Row 7: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

Switch to Color E

Row 8: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

Switch to Color A

Row 9: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

Switch to Color C

Rows 10-14: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

Switch to Color A

Row 15: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

Switch to Color E

Row 16: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

Switch to Color A

Row 17: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

Switch to Color D

Rows 18-22: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

Switch to Color A

Row 23: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

Switch to Color E

Row 24: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

Switch to Color A

Row 25: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

Rows 26-47: Repeat rows 2-23

EDGING:
With Color A (which you should have ended on in row 47),

Ch 1. SC evenly around the entire blanket, using 3 SC in each corner. Ch 2. 1 DC in each SC around, using 4 DC in each corner. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.

BABY BLANKET (COLOR CHANGE SHORTCUT PATTERN)

The rows are worked in the following colors:

1. White
2. Soft Fern
3. Soft Fern
4. Soft Fern
5. Soft Fern
6. Soft Fern
7. White
8. Grey Mist
9. White
10. Lagoon
11. Lagoon
12. Lagoon
13. Lagoon
14. Lagoon
15. White
16. Grey Mist
17. White
18. Strawberry
19. Strawberry
20. Strawberry
21. Strawberry
22. Strawberry
23. White
24. Grey Mist
25. White
26. Soft Fern
27. Soft Fern
28. Soft Fern
29. Soft Fern
30. Soft Fern
31. White
32. Grey Mist
33. White
34. Lagoon
35. Lagoon
36. Lagoon
37. Lagoon
38. Lagoon
39. White
40. Grey Mist
41. White
42. Strawberry
43. Strawberry
44. Strawberry
45. Strawberry
46. Strawberry
47. White

Even though temperatures here are still dipping below zero, it is March, which in my corner of the world means spring is coming. And while we’re left to keep on guessing as to when we’ll be graced with its presence, I’ve decided I’m ready to start crocheting for warm weather fun now.

One of the goals I’ve set for myself this year is to eat more healthy, whole foods, which starts with buying more healthy produce. And I want to make it a point to buy from local farmers. Not only is it better for you (you can make sure you’re buying real food that hasn’t been doused in chemicals); but supporting your local economy, especially farmers, is just a good thing to do.

I love all the market bags I’ve seen on Pinterest, and I wanted to make one for myself that I could take to the farmers’ markets this spring and summer. I’m hoping that having a cute bag will be motivating, kind of like how new running shoes can give you renewed excitement for exercising. Except this market bag is a whole lot cheaper than running shoes! (With yarn and buttons, plus sales and coupons, I probably put less than $4 into it!)

This bag is also very easy to make larger or smaller, if you’re comfortable with deviating from patterns. Just add a couple of rounds to the base for a bigger tote, or take a couple away for a smaller one!

 

MARKET TOTE BAG

Hooks: H (5.00mm) and I (5.50mm)
Yarn: Approx. 315 yards of worsted weight yarn in your favorite color (I used Hobby Lobby’s “I Love This Yarn” in Midgreen)
Buttons (optional): Four. I used 1-1/8″ wooden buttons by La Mode (style #3102)
Difficulty: Easy
Dimensions: The bag (not including straps) measures about 12″ wide by 14″ tall. The straps add another 13″ or so.
Notes: For the base of the bag, you will join rounds. Once you get past the base, you’ll start crocheting in a continuous spiral. This is noted within the pattern.

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With H hook, begin with a Magic Circle.

Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as first DC here and throughout); 11 DC in Magic Circle. Join. (12)

Round 2: Ch 2; 1 DC in same St. (2 DC in next St) around. Join. (24)

Round 3: Ch 2; 1 DC in same St, 1 DC in next. (2 DC in next; 1 DC in next) around. Join. (36)

Round 4: Ch 2; 1 DC in same St, 1 DC in each of the next 2 St. (2 DC in next; 1 DC in each of the next 2 St) around. Join. (48)

Round 5: Ch 2; 1 DC in same St, 1 DC in each of the next 3 St. (2 DC in next; 1 DC in each of the next 3 St) around. Join. (60)

Round 6: Ch 2; 1 DC in same St, 1 DC in each of the next 4 St. (2 DC in next; 1 DC in each of the next 4 St) around. Join. (72)

Switch to I hook. From this point on, you will no longer join rounds. I use a stitch marker (like a bobby pin) to mark the first stitch of the round I am working on.

Round 7: Ch 1 (does NOT count as first stitch). 1 SC + 1 DC in same St. Skip next St. (1 SC + 1 DC in next; skip next) around.

Round 8: 1 SC + 1 DC in first skipped space from previous round. (1 SC + 1 DC in next skipped space) around. (Note: If you separate the stitches to find the space, you may see two spaces: one to the left, and one a little down and to the right. You’ll want to work your stitches in the space to the left.)

Rounds 9-29: Repeat Round 8.

Switch back to H hook.

Round 30: Working in top loops again, (1 SC in each St) around.

Rounds 31-36: Repeat Round 30.

Next you’ll add the straps, still working in a continuous spiral.

Round 37: Ch 100. Skip 20 St; Sl St into the next St. 1 SC in each of the next 16 St. Ch 100. Skip next 20 St; Sl St into next. 1 SC in each of the next Sts until you reach the first chain.

Round 38: 1 SC in each St around. When you are working on the straps, put your SCs in the BACK LOOP only of each Ch. When working around the base, SC as you normally would, under both loops.

Round 39: 1 SC in each St around (including up and around the straps).

Rounds 40-41: Repeat Round 39.

Optional: Add more rows for thicker straps.

Finishing: Sl St to the next St (you should be at the bottom right base of the first strap you made). Fasten off and weave in ends.

Add your buttons to both sides of the bag, or embellish as desired.

I call this purse the Princess Purse because the ruffled top and the bling on the flower just seem princessy to me. (Yep, “princessy” is definitely a word.) Can’t you picture it in the colors of your daughter’s favorite Disney heroine? Think icy blue and white (Elsa), gold and pale yellow (Belle), or lavender and pink (Rapunzel). What an adorable addition to any little girl’s dress-up closet, and it’s SO simple to make!

PRINCESS PURSE

Hook: H (5.00mm) and I (5.5mm)
Yarn: Worsted weight in your favorite color  (I used Hobby Lobby’s “I Love This Yarn”)
Difficulty: Easy
Size: The body of the purse is about 5.5″ tall by 7.5″ wide
Notes: This bag is crocheted in the round. The floor of the bag is joined rounds, and the rest of the base is crocheted in a continuous spiral (noted in pattern).
Stitches Used:  Ch, SC, HDC, DC, TC (Triple or Treble Crochet), FPSC (Front Post Single Crochet)

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With H hook, Ch 21.

Round 1: 2 SC in second Ch from hook. 1 SC in each of the next 18 Ch. 2 SC in next. You are now working on the back side of the chain. 2 SC in next. 1 SC in each of the next 18 Ch. 2 SC in last Ch. Join to top of first SC. (44 SC)

Round 2: Ch 1. 2 SC in same St. 1 SC in each of the next 20 St. 2 SC in next. 2 SC in next. 1 SC in each of the next 20 St. 2 SC in last St. Join to top of first SC. (48 SC)

Round 3: Ch 1. 1 HDC in each St around. DO NOT JOIN. From this point on, you will work in a continuous spiral (until noted otherwise); use a stitch marker, like a bobby pin, if needed. (48 HDC)

Rounds 4-12: 1 HDC in each stitch around (48 HDC)

Round 13: 1 SC in each stitch around (48 SC)

Rounds 14-15: Repeat Round 13. (48 SC)

Round 16 (ruffle edging, first layer): Ch 2. 2 FPDC in same St. (3 FPDC in next St) around. Join to top of first FPDC. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Round 17 (ruffle edging, second layer): With I hook, attach a contrasting color via one of the top sets of SC loops from Round 15 (see photo below; this row of loops is hidden behind the first ruffle layer). Ch 4; 2 TC in same St. (3 TC in next St) around. Join to top of first TC. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Straps
Using the Chainless Foundation method, FSC 90. Fasten off and weave in ends. Sew or glue ends to opposite sides of the inside of the purse.

Embellishment Flower
This flower is a free pattern of its own, and you can find it here: Simply Layered Embellishment Flower Pattern