Category: All Free Patterns

  • Sweet Ocean Breeze Baby Blanket (Original Version)

    Sweet Ocean Breeze Baby Blanket (Original Version)

    Hey there! If you’re discovering this blanket for the first time, please click here for the updated version. The post you are currently on is the original version, which I’m keeping up only for those who were mid-pattern when I made my updates. I’m also closing comments on this version.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Sweet Ocean Breeze Baby Blanket (Original Version)

    New to this pattern? Please click here for the updated version!

    Hook: I (5.50mm)
    Yarn: Bernat Satin in Sandstone (250 yards, or 2 skeins), Lagoon (140 yards, or 1 skein), and Snow (280 yards, or 2 skeins).
    Difficulty: Easy
    Finished Size: Approx. 34″x26″ (You can easily increase or decrease the size by adding to your starting Ch; just make sure you start with an odd number of Ch)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
    (2) When working in rows, I usually do my starting chain and first row in a hook one size bigger than the pattern asks for. I tend to chain tightly, which pulls at the finished project if I don’t use a larger hook to start. You can do the same if you wish. It is not noted in the pattern.
    (3) “SC+DC” just means to put both a single crochet stitch and a double crochet stitch in the same place.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    To Begin: Ch103.

    Row 1: In 3rd Ch from hook, 1SC + 1DC. (Skip next St; 1 SC + 1 DC in next St) across.

    Row 2: Ch2; turn. (Skip next St; 1 SC + 1 DC in next St) across. (Hint: You are working between the SC+DC pairings from the previous row. If you stretch out the row a bit, you’ll be able to see the small spaces in which you’ll be working. The last two stitches will go in the Ch2 space from the previous row.)

    Rows 3-76: Repeat row 2.

    Fasten off; weave in ends.

  • Sweet Ocean Breeze Baby Blanket

    Sweet Ocean Breeze Baby Blanket

    Bummer of an update:
    Bernat has discontinued both Sandstone and Lagoon. However, they still have a gorgeous line of colors in the Bernat Satin collection that you can choose from!

    11/13/15: Occasionally, the time comes to update a pattern.

    It’s not lost on me that although many of you have successfully completed this blanket without issue, there is also a significant number of you who are convinced that the pattern doesn’t work. Clearly something is getting lost in translation, and although I’m not exactly sure what it is, I am not above trying to make my patterns better and better. I am, after all, only human… and there will always be room for growth.

    It has dawned on me recently that I’ve released some other patterns using this same stitch, just worded a bit differently, and there hasn’t been any confusion on those patterns. So, I’m re-writing this pattern in the exact same language that was used for those patterns. (If you’re wondering: the only significant changes, other than re-wording, are a CH1 at the beginning of rows (instead of the original CH2), and I also left out the part about putting the last stitches in the CH2 space. It was more confusing than I meant for it to be, and it’s not necessary to make the pattern work.)

    If you were in the middle of making this blanket, and didn’t have a problem with the previous version, click here to view it in its original wording.

    I’ve also gone ahead and deleted many of the comments for the pattern because they were getting pretty confusing, some of them were wrong, and frankly, they just won’t apply to this new version and I don’t want to confuse new visitors even more. Nothing wrong with starting fresh. 🙂

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

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    SWEET OCEAN BREEZE BABY BLANKET

    Hook: I (5.50mm)
    Yarn: Bernat Satin in Sandstone (250 yards, or 2 skeins), Lagoon (140 yards, or 1 skein), and Snow (280 yards, or 2 skeins).
    Difficulty: Easy
    Finished Size: Approx. 34″x26″ (You can easily increase or decrease the size by adding to your starting Ch; just make sure you start with an odd number of Ch)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
    (2) When working in rows, I usually do my starting chain and first row in a hook one size bigger than the pattern asks for. I tend to chain tightly, which pulls at the finished project if I don’t use a larger hook to start. You can do the same if you wish. It is not noted in the pattern.
    (3) “SC+DC” just means to put both a single crochet stitch and a double crochet stitch in the same place.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    To begin: CH103.

    Row 1:  SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (102)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (102)

    Rows 3-76: Repeat Row 2.

    – – – – – –

    Here’s how I ordered my colors for the blanket in the example, using Bernat Satin yarn:

    • Sandstone x4 rows
    • Snow x4
    • Lagoon x4
    • Snow x4
    • Sandstone x8
    • Snow x4
    • Lagoon x4
    • Snow x4

    Repeat all of the above, in order, one more time.

    Finish with a final section of Sandstone x4.

  • My First Baby Blanket

    My First Baby Blanket

    Would you believe I’ve never made a baby blanket before?

    I mean, I’ve tried. I’ve started them. I’ve tried to stick with it. I’ve given up more than a few times.

    It’s not because they’re hard to make; you can find baby blanket patterns for any skill level. They’re just so… big. And I’ve mentioned before that I have an incredibly short attention span. I can’t even finish a dishcloth without starting another project. My workspace is covered in half-finished items. (And by “workspace”, I am referring to the 6′ chest freezer in my dining room. I don’t know what’s weirder, the fact that my workspace is a chest freezer in my dining room, or the fact that I even have a chest freezer in my dining room. But whatever.)

    But, I’m also much quicker with crochet than I was before. As with anything, we get better the more we practice, right? And, even more importantly… my friends are having BABIES! Over the next few months, there will be a few new tiny bundles of joy for me to hold and love on and crochet for. So, with winter over (that’s according to the calendar, not the inch of snow I can see from my window right now), it’s time to set aside my crazy love of scarves and start focusing on all things baby. Starting with some blankets!

    This first one is simple and soft, but makes a modern statement with its bold colors and ridged lines. If you can do a double crochet, you can make this blanket, and you’ll be the talk of the baby shower!

    A note for the experienced crocheter: This pattern is simply rows of DCs worked in back loops only, with an edging of 1 row each of SC and DC (4 to a corner). I have included all of my color changes in the pattern below, but the detailed nature of that pattern might drive you nuts. I’ve included a “shortcut” version below the pattern that you might prefer if you are sticking to my color choices.

    I used 2 beautiful colors from Bernat Satin for this project. You can purchase it here! 

     

    MY FIRST BABY BLANKET

    Hook: I (5.50mm)
    Yarn: Soft worsted weight. I used a few different brands, which you have to be careful doing, because not all worsted weight yarn is the same (especially when you’re dealing with baby yarn). But these worked out fine for me:

    • Color A: White (Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn)  Approx. 210 yards
    • Color B: Soft Fern (Bernat Satin – affiliate link) Approx. 140 yards
    • Color C: Lagoon (Bernat Satin – affiliate link) Approx. 140 yards
    • Color D: Strawberry (Caron Simply Soft) Approx. 140 yards
    • Color E: Grey Mist (Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn) Approx. 70 yards

    Difficulty: Beginner-Easy
    Finished Size: Approx. 26″x30″

    Notes:

    • Ch 2 does NOT count as starting DC.
    • I’m writing the pattern according to my color changes, but you can plan out the blanket any way you want. It’s just row after row of DCs in back loops only. Be creative!
    • This blanket is worked in BACK LOOPS ONLY after the first row. I don’t put this on each and every row’s instructions.
    • I’ve been asked how I get such straight edges. My trick is that when I Ch2 at the beginning of a new row, I make my first DC in the NEXT stitch. Then at the end of the row, when it seems like I’m out of stitches but need to make one more, I make it in the Ch 2 knot from the previous row. This technique provides a nice straight edge. I promise I’ll do a photo tutorial soon. 😉

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    With Color A,

    Row 1: FDC 94.
    (FDC = Foundationless Double Crochet. I swear by this method and I have an awesome tutorial here. It’s faster and easier than chaining the first row. If you don’t feel like learning it right now, you can also complete this row by chaining 96, then DC in 3rd ch from hook and DC across.)

    Switch to Color B.
    The rest of this blanket, until you get to the edging, is worked in the BACK LOOPS ONLY.

    Rows 2-6: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

    Switch to Color A

    Row 7: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

    Switch to Color E

    Row 8: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

    Switch to Color A

    Row 9: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

    Switch to Color C

    Rows 10-14: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

    Switch to Color A

    Row 15: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

    Switch to Color E

    Row 16: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

    Switch to Color A

    Row 17: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

    Switch to Color D

    Rows 18-22: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

    Switch to Color A

    Row 23: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

    Switch to Color E

    Row 24: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

    Switch to Color A

    Row 25: Ch 2. 1 DC in next St and in each St across (94 DC)

    Rows 26-47: Repeat rows 2-23

    EDGING:
    With Color A (which you should have ended on in row 47),

    Ch 1. SC evenly around the entire blanket, using 3 SC in each corner. Ch 2. 1 DC in each SC around, using 4 DC in each corner. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.


    BABY BLANKET (COLOR CHANGE SHORTCUT PATTERN)

    The rows are worked in the following colors:

    1. White
    2. Soft Fern
    3. Soft Fern
    4. Soft Fern
    5. Soft Fern
    6. Soft Fern
    7. White
    8. Grey Mist
    9. White
    10. Lagoon
    11. Lagoon
    12. Lagoon
    13. Lagoon
    14. Lagoon
    15. White
    16. Grey Mist
    17. White
    18. Strawberry
    19. Strawberry
    20. Strawberry
    21. Strawberry
    22. Strawberry
    23. White
    24. Grey Mist
    25. White
    26. Soft Fern
    27. Soft Fern
    28. Soft Fern
    29. Soft Fern
    30. Soft Fern
    31. White
    32. Grey Mist
    33. White
    34. Lagoon
    35. Lagoon
    36. Lagoon
    37. Lagoon
    38. Lagoon
    39. White
    40. Grey Mist
    41. White
    42. Strawberry
    43. Strawberry
    44. Strawberry
    45. Strawberry
    46. Strawberry
    47. White
  • Market Tote Bag

    Market Tote Bag

    Even though temperatures here are still dipping below zero, it is March, which in my corner of the world means spring is coming. And while we’re left to keep on guessing as to when we’ll be graced with its presence, I’ve decided I’m ready to start crocheting for warm weather fun now.

    One of the goals I’ve set for myself this year is to eat more healthy, whole foods, which starts with buying more healthy produce. And I want to make it a point to buy from local farmers. Not only is it better for you (you can make sure you’re buying real food that hasn’t been doused in chemicals); but supporting your local economy, especially farmers, is just a good thing to do.

    I love all the market bags I’ve seen on Pinterest, and I wanted to make one for myself that I could take to the farmers’ markets this spring and summer. I’m hoping that having a cute bag will be motivating, kind of like how new running shoes can give you renewed excitement for exercising. Except this market bag is a whole lot cheaper than running shoes! (With yarn and buttons, plus sales and coupons, I probably put less than $4 into it!)

    This bag is also very easy to make larger or smaller, if you’re comfortable with deviating from patterns. Just add a couple of rounds to the base for a bigger tote, or take a couple away for a smaller one!

     

    MARKET TOTE BAG

    Hooks: H (5.00mm) and I (5.50mm)
    Yarn: Approx. 315 yards of worsted weight yarn in your favorite color (I used Hobby Lobby’s “I Love This Yarn” in Midgreen)
    Buttons (optional): Four. I used 1-1/8″ wooden buttons by La Mode (style #3102)
    Difficulty: Easy
    Dimensions: The bag (not including straps) measures about 12″ wide by 14″ tall. The straps add another 13″ or so.
    Notes: For the base of the bag, you will join rounds. Once you get past the base, you’ll start crocheting in a continuous spiral. This is noted within the pattern.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    With H hook, begin with a Magic Circle.

    Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as first DC here and throughout); 11 DC in Magic Circle. Join. (12)

    Round 2: Ch 2; 1 DC in same St. (2 DC in next St) around. Join. (24)

    Round 3: Ch 2; 1 DC in same St, 1 DC in next. (2 DC in next; 1 DC in next) around. Join. (36)

    Round 4: Ch 2; 1 DC in same St, 1 DC in each of the next 2 St. (2 DC in next; 1 DC in each of the next 2 St) around. Join. (48)

    Round 5: Ch 2; 1 DC in same St, 1 DC in each of the next 3 St. (2 DC in next; 1 DC in each of the next 3 St) around. Join. (60)

    Round 6: Ch 2; 1 DC in same St, 1 DC in each of the next 4 St. (2 DC in next; 1 DC in each of the next 4 St) around. Join. (72)

    Switch to I hook. From this point on, you will no longer join rounds. I use a stitch marker (like a bobby pin) to mark the first stitch of the round I am working on.

    Round 7: Ch 1 (does NOT count as first stitch). 1 SC + 1 DC in same St. Skip next St. (1 SC + 1 DC in next; skip next) around.

    Round 8: 1 SC + 1 DC in first skipped space from previous round. (1 SC + 1 DC in next skipped space) around. (Note: If you separate the stitches to find the space, you may see two spaces: one to the left, and one a little down and to the right. You’ll want to work your stitches in the space to the left.)

    Rounds 9-29: Repeat Round 8.

    Switch back to H hook.

    Round 30: Working in top loops again, (1 SC in each St) around.

    Rounds 31-36: Repeat Round 30.

    Next you’ll add the straps, still working in a continuous spiral.

    Round 37: Ch 100. Skip 20 St; Sl St into the next St. 1 SC in each of the next 16 St. Ch 100. Skip next 20 St; Sl St into next. 1 SC in each of the next Sts until you reach the first chain.

    Round 38: 1 SC in each St around. When you are working on the straps, put your SCs in the BACK LOOP only of each Ch. When working around the base, SC as you normally would, under both loops.

    Round 39: 1 SC in each St around (including up and around the straps).

    Rounds 40-41: Repeat Round 39.

    Optional: Add more rows for thicker straps.

    Finishing: Sl St to the next St (you should be at the bottom right base of the first strap you made). Fasten off and weave in ends.

    Add your buttons to both sides of the bag, or embellish as desired.

  • Princess Purse

    Princess Purse

    I call this purse the Princess Purse because the ruffled top and the bling on the flower just seem princessy to me. (Yep, “princessy” is definitely a word.) Can’t you picture it in the colors of your daughter’s favorite Disney heroine? Think icy blue and white (Elsa), gold and pale yellow (Belle), or lavender and pink (Rapunzel). What an adorable addition to any little girl’s dress-up closet, and it’s SO simple to make!

    PRINCESS PURSE

    Hook: H (5.00mm) and I (5.5mm)
    Yarn: Worsted weight in your favorite color  (I used Hobby Lobby’s “I Love This Yarn”)
    Difficulty: Easy
    Size: The body of the purse is about 5.5″ tall by 7.5″ wide
    Notes: This bag is crocheted in the round. The floor of the bag is joined rounds, and the rest of the base is crocheted in a continuous spiral (noted in pattern).
    Stitches Used:  Ch, SC, HDC, DC, TC (Triple or Treble Crochet), FPSC (Front Post Single Crochet)

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    With H hook, Ch 21.

    Round 1: 2 SC in second Ch from hook. 1 SC in each of the next 18 Ch. 2 SC in next. You are now working on the back side of the chain. 2 SC in next. 1 SC in each of the next 18 Ch. 2 SC in last Ch. Join to top of first SC. (44 SC)

    Round 2: Ch 1. 2 SC in same St. 1 SC in each of the next 20 St. 2 SC in next. 2 SC in next. 1 SC in each of the next 20 St. 2 SC in last St. Join to top of first SC. (48 SC)

    Round 3: Ch 1. 1 HDC in each St around. DO NOT JOIN. From this point on, you will work in a continuous spiral (until noted otherwise); use a stitch marker, like a bobby pin, if needed. (48 HDC)

    Rounds 4-12: 1 HDC in each stitch around (48 HDC)

    Round 13: 1 SC in each stitch around (48 SC)

    Rounds 14-15: Repeat Round 13. (48 SC)

    Round 16 (ruffle edging, first layer): Ch 2. 2 FPDC in same St. (3 FPDC in next St) around. Join to top of first FPDC. Fasten off and weave in ends.

    Round 17 (ruffle edging, second layer): With I hook, attach a contrasting color via one of the top sets of SC loops from Round 15 (see photo below; this row of loops is hidden behind the first ruffle layer). Ch 4; 2 TC in same St. (3 TC in next St) around. Join to top of first TC. Fasten off and weave in ends.

    Princess Purse Free Crochet Pattern

    Straps
    Using the Chainless Foundation method, FSC 90. Fasten off and weave in ends. Sew or glue ends to opposite sides of the inside of the purse.

    Embellishment Flower
    This flower is a free pattern of its own, and you can find it here: Simply Layered Embellishment Flower Pattern

     

  • Cinched Ear Warmer Headband

    Cinched Ear Warmer Headband

    © Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

    Thank you to Lion Brand for providing the yarn for this pattern sample.

    Today’s pattern is so super easy and fast, and since winter around here seems to have no intentions of going away any time soon, it’s the perfect cold weather accessory when you don’t quite want to commit to a hat. The cinch makes it so versatile – you can wear the cinched part on top of your head or off to the side, or even underneath your ponytail. Give this cinched ear warmer / headband crochet pattern a try!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    CINCHED EAR WARMER

    Level: Easy

    Size:
    One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
    Earwarmer measures 18” around, and is 3” wide.

    Materials:

    • H hook (5.00mm)
    • About 45 yards of Lion Brand Heartland* (Samples are shown in Katmai and Mammoth Cave)
      *About Heartland:
        Weight: #4 worsted
                    Fiber: 100% Acrylic
      Yardage: 5oz/142g (251yd/230m)
      Gauge: 12 sc + 15 rows = 4 inches on size J-10 [6 mm] hook
    • Yarn needle

    Gauge:
    With H hook, 7 HDC = 2″

    Stitches Used:
    CH (chain)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    FDC (foundation half double crochet – click here for a tutorial)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    DC (double crochet)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
    (2) Starting chains do not count as stitches.
    (3) This pattern is easily adjusted to any head size. 62 STS was perfect for me, but you might want to wrap the first round around your head as you go to get the perfect fit for you.

    THE PATTERN

    With H hook,

    Round 1: FDC* 62. Join to first FDC, being careful not to twist the row.
    (*FDC stands for Chainless Foundation Double Crochet, and you can find the tutorial here. Or, just Ch 63, DC in second Ch from hook and DC across. But seriously, go learn Chainless Foundation stitch. It’s way cooler.)

    Round 2: Ch 1; HDC in each St around. Join. (62 HDC)

    Round 3: Ch 2; DC in each St around. Join. (62 DC)

    Rounds 4-7: Repeat rounds 2-3 two more times.

    Cut your yarn, leaving about a 12″ tail, and finish off but don’t weave in the tail. Use your yarn needle to sew up the first round of FDCs, then weave in that tail and cut.

    To Cinch:

    1. Thread the long tail through your yarn needle. Gather the seamed section of the headband, and fold in half so that the fold is facing you.

    2. Bring either side up to the top of the fold and hold secure with your fingers.

    3. Run your yarn needle through all three sections of gathered material. The closer you get to the surface, the better your cinch will look; so I run mine right under the top loops of the outer sections, and under just a few strands of the center fold.

    4. Wrap the yarn around the underside of the cinch, then through the sections again. Do this a few times to secure the cinch, then tie off underneath and weave in the tail.

    cinching steps