Category: Miscellaneous

Tabby Chic Cat Bed
If you follow me on social media, you know that we’ve recently added a very unlikely member to our family. And when I say “unlikely”, I mean that never in my life did I ever think I would own a cat. My older sister was allergic to them, so I never had one growing up; and, I have always been a big dog person. Like, literally, big dogs. Not cats. While I love animals of all kinds, I just never had an interest in owning a cat. So a month ago, if you’d told me I was going to be publishing a pattern for a cat bed, I would have given you a very strange look.

But, here we are!

And that’s all thanks to Simba, the little orange cat that coughed and sneezed his way into a permanent place in our family.

He came to us with a bad upper respiratory infection, ear mites, and eyes so red and gunky he couldn’t hardly open them after a nap. And I tried really hard to stay unattached. But this kitty is impossible not to love. When I was crocheting on the couch one morning not long after we brought him home, he came over, wrapped his paws around my arm, laid his head on me, and fell asleep; and that’s pretty much how he is all the time — cuddly and sweet, and just wanting to be with people. When we didn’t receive any leads on our “lost kitty” posts for a week, I finally admitted to myself that even though I’ve never been a cat person, I really wanted to be his person. And we decided to keep him.

A few days after that decision, I hosted our church’s Women’s Life Group at my home as I do every week. One of the women who attends owns a large horse farm a few miles from our church (where my husband found Simba), and the moment she saw him, she immediately recognized him as one of her barn kitties that had been missing for a while. My heart sank. But when I told her we’d give him back (after all, my children had known from the beginning that his owners might show up), this wonderful woman didn’t even hesitate to say “No, he’s yours. I think he chose your family. God meant him for you.”

And that’s the story of how Simba chose our family!

Of course, I decided pretty early on that I needed to make him something. I thought a bed would be the perfect thing, and I wanted it to have a rustic look to it, so I headed to Michaels to find a thick, rustic yarn, and Loops & Threads Chunky was the perfect fit. I also designed a cute little tag for it and ordered the finished item from MemorableLand on Etsy. Dmitry did a wonderful job putting my vision on these wooden tags!

–

About the Rescued Tag

Now, I guess Simba isn’t technically a rescue pet. We now know where he came from, and had we not wanted him, he would have been welcomed back to his farm with open arms. But I had ordered these wooden tags from MemorableLand before we had that information… and given the fact that I was in a bit of a rough patch when this little kitty came into our lives, it’s safe to say that Simba sort of “rescued” me out of the funk that I was in. Anyone who has a pet knows how healing they can be for the soul, and Simba has most definitely been that for me over the past few weeks!

The word “Rescued” holds a lot of meaning for me, in more ways than one; it’s also a meaningful reminder of how Christ rescued me, and that’s a wonderful thing to be reminded of, especially as we celebrate Easter this weekend!

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TABBY CHIC CAT BED

Level: Easyish

Size: 17″ wide x 5″ tall

Materials:
- S hook (19.00mm) – and YES, I really did use an S hook, and that really is an S hook in the photos. I have a very tight tension. If you don’t, you should use a smaller hook.
- Yarn needle
- Approximately 140 yards of Loops & Threads Chunky (<6 skeins). Sample shown in “Oatmeal” (currently sold out online, but my store had plenty). Loops & Threads Chunky is a #6 super bulky yarn, HOWEVER, if you are substituting, I would strongly recommend using a #7 Jumbo yarn. (The yarn I used really should be classified as a #7, as it’s significantly thicker than any #6 yarn I’ve ever used.)
- Stitch marker or bobby pin
Gauge:
Your first 4 rounds should measure 7″ across.

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle) – view my tutorial here
CH (chain)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. Instead of putting your HDC in the top loops, reach your hook past the back loop where you’ll find a 3rd loop on the side of the stitch. Insert your hook there to create your HDC. This forces both of the top loops to rest on the front of your project, creating a ribbing effect. In other patterns it is also referred to as a Camel Stitch or RibHDC.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) This pattern is worked mostly in a seamless round. At Round 10, you will chain and turn, and then continue on in a seamless round in the opposite direction. This is all noted in the pattern.
(3) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.

How To Make It Larger:
It’s relatively simple, so hopefully my explanation won’t sound toocomplicated. What you’ll want to do is continue increasing your base until it’s about 1-2 inches smaller than the size you want the bed to be. On the very last repeat of the last round you did, use SC instead of HDC for all but the last two stitches; use slip stitches for the final two stitches. (This is the equivalent of Round 9 in the pattern.) So for instance, if you did 10 increase rounds, your 10th round would be:

(2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 8 STS) 7 times. 2 SC in next, 1 SC in each of the next 6 STS, 1 SL ST in each of the next 2 STS. (80)

Then, CH1 and turn, and do a final increase round in HDC (this is the equivalent of Round 10 in the pattern). Continue on with Round 11 and follow the pattern as written (your stitch counts will be different).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using S Hook, make a magic circle.

Round 1: CH1. 8 HDC in MC. (8)

Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around. (16)

Round 3: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around. (24)

Round 4: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (32)

Round 5: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (40)

Round 6: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (48)

Round 7: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (56)

Round 8: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 6 STS) around. (64)

Round 9: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 7 STS) 7 times. 2 SC in next, 1 SC in each of the next 5 STS, 1 SL ST in each of the next 2 STS. (72)

Note: The end of round 9 should smooth down your round to blend in, instead of ending with the jagged edge that working a seamless round causes. This will enable us to chain up in the next round, turn our work, and begin working seamlessly in the other direction.

Round 10: CH1, turn your work. (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 8 STS) around. Do not join. (80)

Rounds 11-14: In 3rd loops, HDC in each ST around. (80)

Round 15: In 3rd loops, SC in each of the next 75 STS. SL ST in 3rd loops of each of the next 5 STS. (80)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.
March 26, 2016
Mobile Device Cover

After the success of the Wildflower Shoulder Bag pattern, I wanted to design a quick pattern to match it that would work as a tablet or iPad cover. I designed this for a standard iPad, but it’s easy to adapt it to the size of your particular device, without doing too much reworking. You could even modify it to be used as a cover for your cell phone!

As with the Wildflower Shoulder Bag, I used Lion Brand’s Cotton-Ease yarn for this project. (I want to thank Lion Brand for providing the yarn for my sample.) I have really come to love this yarn! It doesn’t fuzz, it’s soft yet durable, and it really shows off stitch work.

(Edit: This yarn has since been discontinued.)

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This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

MOBILE DEVICE COVER

Hook: H (5.00mm)
Yarn: About 140 yards of Lion Brand Cotton-Ease (I used “stone”)
Difficulty: Easy
Finished Size: 7″ wide x 9.5″ tall
Gauge: 9 rows of 7 SC = 2″ square
You’ll also need: 1 button, plus tools to attach it, and a stitch marker

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) The pattern is sized for a standard iPad. Hints for adjusting the size are included in the pattern, in blue.
(3) This pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round. Do not join or turn unless instructed to do so. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning of your rounds.

PATTERN:

To begin:
Ch 25. (This is the length of the smallest side of your device, plus half an inch. Any odd number of chains will work.)

Round 1: 3SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in each of the next 22 CHs. 3SC in last CH, working around the tail to the other side. Coming over to the other side, SC in each of the next 22 CHs. (50)

Rounds 2-3: SC in each ST around. (50)

Round 4: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around. (50)

Rounds 5-22 (or until your height is about 2-2.5″ shorter than the height of your device): Repeat Round 4.

Rounds 23-30 (or until your height is about half an inch shorter than the height of your device): SC in each ST around. (50)

Round 31: Now we’re going to form the button closure. Using a bobby pin or stitch marker, lay the project flat and mark the centermost stitch of the last round. SC in each ST until you reach your marked stitch; SL ST to the marked ST. CH 12 (or however many you’ll need to wrap it around the button you chose). SL ST to the same ST to close the loop. SC in each remaining ST around.

Round 32: SC in each ST around. (Ignore the CH12 loop; just fold it down out of your way.)

To Finish: SL ST into the first 3 STS of the next round to even out the edge.

Fasten off and weave in ends. Attach your button on the opposite side from the button loop.

August 19, 2015
Never Ending Wildflower 12″ Granny Square
Welcome, Moogly Afghan CAL visitors!

If you’ve spent much time around my blog (and welcome, to those of you who haven’t), you know that I like to create modern, clean-looking patterns. I like simple color schemes, clean lines, and contemporary styles!

That’s why I decided to use my Never Ending Wildflower to create this square. The interest of this pattern doesn’t come from the square itself, but from the beauty of its focal centerpiece, the large, multi-petal wildflower. Of course, you can incorporate as many different colors into this pattern as you want; for me, I prefer just using two, and I love how the contrast makes the flower leap right off the square.

If you’d like to see the original pattern for the Never Ending Wildflower, and learn how to make it even bigger for different uses, you can view that pattern here.

And for our Dutch friends joining in on the Moogly CAL:
Dit patroon is (door HET HAAKBEEST) in het Nederlands vertaald. Je vindt een versie met foto’s voor rechtshandigen, eentje met foto’s speciaal voor linkshandigen, en een printerversie zonder foto’s.

THE NEVER ENDING WILDFLOWER 12″ GRANNY SQUARE

Hook: I (5.50mm)
Yarn: Vanna’s Choice, or your favorite worsted weight yarn. I used less than 100 yards (each) of Vanna’s Choice in White and Dusty Blue for my sample.
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: Circle after Round 3 should measure 3.75” in diameter.
Final Size: 12″x12″

Notes: 
- This pattern is written in American Standard Terms. The flower portion is taken from my original pattern, The Never Ending Wildflower.
- The flower, including its petals, are worked as a part of the granny square as a whole. Rounds will alternate between increase rounds and petals. Increase rounds will be called “round 1, 2, 3” etc, and petal rounds will be referred to as “1^st round of petals, 2^nd round of petals,” etc. Because each petal round shares its space with the increase round below it, they are not counted as part of the pattern’s total rounds.
- CH1 on the increase rounds does not count as a stitch.
- Be mindful that the pattern alternates in calling for FLO (Front Loops Only) and BLO (Back Loops Only).
- Each round of petals has 12 total petals. The first round of petals will cover 1 ST (of the previous round) per petal. The 2^nd round of petals will cover 2 STS per petal, the 3^rd round 3 STS, and so on.
PART 1: THE FLOWER

Begin with a Magic Circle; CH1.

Round 1: 12 DC in MC. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (12)

1^st Round of Petals (FLO – don’t miss this!): CH2. In same St, 2DC, CH2, SL ST. This is your first petal. (SL ST to next St. In same St, CH2, 2DC, CH2, SL ST to same St) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 2 (BLO – You’re now going to work around Round 1 again, this time working in the loop that you ignored during the first round of petals): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 1. CH1. 2DC in same ST. 2 DC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (24)

2^nd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 3 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 2. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in next ST. (2DC in next ST, DC in next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (36)

3^rd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 4 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 3. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (48)

4^th Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. To complete flower, SL ST to 1^st BLO of Round 4. (12 petals)

Change colors if desired.

PART 2: THE GRANNY SQUARE

Round 5: CH2 (does not count as a stitch, here and throughout the rest of the pattern). In same ST, 2DC, CH2, 2DC. DC in next. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. DC in next ST. (In next ST, 2DC, CH2, 2DC. DC in next. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. DC in next ST) 3 times. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 15.)

Round 6: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 19.)

Round 7: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 23.)

Round 8: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 27.)

Round 9: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 31.)

Round 10: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 35.)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.
May 6, 2015
Mason Jar Cover

This past fall, our family moved from Indiana to Michigan. We purchased a cute little house (our first!) and settled in just in time to see the huge tree in the front yard shed its fire-red leaves, and before we’d even unpacked everything, the winter chill was moving in. So you’ll understand what I’m saying when I tell you that I’ve waited rather impatiently for spring to come. We’ve never had a nice backyard, but we do now; and it even comes with a cute porch that’s just begging for some DIY decor!

My first project? Mason jar cozies. I wanted to make something that would look cute during the day and, with the addition of a tea light, would cast a beautiful patterned shadow around it at night for those summer campfire evenings. I think a line of these would look stunning in the dark.

Of course, once I started to crochet, more ideas came into my mind for these cute mason jar cozies. They will look adorable as a vase for fresh flowers, or as part of a front porch “welcome” display. As you can see in my photos, I even got my husband to cut me some small budding limbs off of the big tree in our front yard, and now one of my cozies is on display in our dining room!

There are about as many uses for mason jars as there are stars in the sky, so why not make them look extra pretty too? I used wide-mouthed Ball Mason Jars in two different sizes (32oz and 16oz). Scroll down for the pattern in both sizes!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

MASON JAR COZY (FOR A BALL® 32OZ WIDE MOUTH QUART JAR)

Hook: H (5.00mm)
Yarn: Less than 1.5 oz of light (3) cotton yarn (I used Sinfonia in “Verde”)
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: After you complete round 4, the diameter of your circle should measure about 3″.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in a seamless round. Do not join at the end of rounds or chain unless instructed. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning of your rounds.

THE PATTERN:

Begin with a Magic Circle.

Round 1: 10 HDC in magic circle (10)
Round 2: 2 HDC in each St around (20)
Round 3: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around (30)
Round 4: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 Sts) around (40)
Rounds 5-9: SC in each St around (40)
Round 10: (SC+DC in next St, SK next St) around (40)
Rounds 11-24 (or until just before the cozy comes to the point on the mason jar where the jar begins to narrow again): Repeat Round 10 (40)
Rounds 25-28: SC tightly in each St around (40)

Finish by slip stitching into the next 3 stitches to smooth out the final row. Fasten off and weave in ends.

MASON JAR COZY (FOR A BALL® 16OZ WIDE MOUTH PINT JAR)

Hook: H (5.00mm)
Yarn: Less than 1 oz of light (3) cotton yarn (I used Sinfonia in “Verde”)
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: After you complete round 3, the diameter of your circle should measure about 2.25″.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in a seamless round. Do not join at the end of rounds or chain unless instructed. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning of your rounds.

THE PATTERN:

Begin with a Magic Circle.

Round 1: 10 HDC in magic circle (10)
Round 2: 2 HDC in each St around (20)
Round 3: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around (30)
Round 4: 2 HDC in next St, 1 HDC in each of the next 6 Sts, 2 HDC in next St, 1 HDC in each of the next 7 Sts. Repeat. (34)
Rounds 5-9: SC in each St around (34)
Round 10: (SC+DC in next St, SK next St) around (34)
Rounds 11-19 (or until just before the cozy comes to the point on the mason jar where the jar begins to narrow again): Repeat Round 10 (34)
Rounds 20-23: SC tightly in each St around (34)

Finish by slip stitching into the next 3 stitches to smooth out the final row. Fasten off and weave in ends.

April 6, 2015
Striped Mug Cozy

STRIPED MUG COZY

Finished Size: About 10” long (not including small “bridge” connector piece) and 3” tall. Fits standard 10-11” circumference mugs.
Gauge: 9 rows of 8 SC each will make a 2” square
Stitches Used: Ch, SC, Sl St
Yarn: Approx. .7oz of your favorite lighter-medium worsted weight yarn (I used Bernat Satin in “Lagoon”).
Button: One button, 1” diameter
Hook: Size H (5.00mm)
Notions: Yarn needle for weaving in ends. You may sew button on with yarn and appropriately sized needle, or you may use a needle and appropriately colored thread.
Notes Pattern is written in American standard terms. Pattern is worked in repeating groups of two rows, alternating colors. You do not need to cut the yarn as you go; carry it up to the next time you use it. The edging will hide the carried yarn. In the photo above, Color A = white and Color B = blue.

Pattern

Ch 11.

Row 1: With Color A, SC in 2^nd Ch from hook; SC in each St across (10 SC)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across (10 SC)

Row 3: Attach Color B. Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across (10 SC)

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across (10 SC)

Row 5: Switch to Color A. Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across (10 SC)

Row 6: Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across (10 SC)

Row 7: Switch to Color B. Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across (10 SC)

Row 8: Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across (10 SC)

Rows 9-38: Repeat instructions for Rows 5-8. You will end on Color A. Continue to Edging.

Edging, Button Loop & Bridge
Switch to Color B (you no longer need Color A). Ch 1; turn. SC in next 9 Sts. 2 SC in next (corner) St. Working along first long edge, SC evenly across. (HINT: Adding a SC for every row will result in an overcrowded edging. So instead, add 2 SCs in each white section, and 1 in each blue section across.) After your SC into the corner, Ch 18. Sl St back into the same corner St to form a loop. SC across short edge. Ch 4. Bring your cozy around (as though it’s wrapped around an imaginary mug) and Sl St to the corner of the opposite end of the cozy (see photo) to form a “bridge”. SC back across the bridge. Continue to SC evenly across the remaining long edge (see HINT above). Join with a Sl St to the bridge (see photo). Fasten off; weave in ends.

Button
Using yarn or thread of your choice, attach 1” button to cozy on the opposite end from the buttonhole loop. The center of the button should sit 3/4” from the short edge of the cozy, and 3/4” from the top (long) edge.

June 12, 2014