The linen (or moss, or seed, or granite) stitch has become a popular choice for baby blankets, and it’s easy to see why. A little quicker than a purely single crocheted blanket (which I also love; see here), the linen stitch still provides a solid and modern-looking fabric, safe for those little baby fingers.

The linen stitch is very basic, so it’s left up to the crocheter to decide how to spruce it up with color. I actually got the inspiration for this blanket from one of my son’s newborn socks! (What can I say? You never know when inspiration will strike.)

ABOUT THE YARN

This was my first experience with Lion Brand’s Feels Like Butta (affiliate link) yarn. It’s just as soft as they say it is; a little dense, but great for a stroller or carseat blanket for a cooler-weather baby. It doesn’t split at all, and the colors are fresh and bright.

VIDEO TUTORIAL

I’ve put together a step-by-step video tutorial for you visual learners! The instructions for the pattern are written right on the screen, so you can follow along visually while also developing your pattern-reading skills. It’s a feature I’ve gotten lots of compliments for on my videos, so it’s definitely worth the extra effort it takes to include it!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

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LINEN STITCH BABY BLANKET

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: Approx. 30” wide x 36” long (stroller blanket size)  

Hook: J (6.0mm) and F (4.0mm). My favorite hooks are Clover Amour.

Yarn: Approx. 1100 yards of #4 aran weight yarn in 3 colors. Yarn used in sample is Lion Brand Feels Like Butta in Pale Grey (COLOR A, about 390 yards), White (COLOR B, about 320 yards), and Lilac (COLOR C, about 390 yards).

Gauge: With larger hook, the following pattern = 4″ square:

To begin: CH19.
Row 1: SC in 3rd CH from hook. (CH1, SK next ST, SC in next ST) across.
Rows 2-18: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), turn. SK first ST, SC in CH1 space. (CH1, SK next ST, SC in next CH1 space) across.

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) A video tutorial is available up in the post, or by clicking here.
(3) When doing your gauge check: If you have to move up or down in hook size to match gauge, be sure to move up or down the same number of millimeters for your smaller hook as well.
(4) Fasten off at each color change.
(5) Because of all of the CH1s in the linen stitch, you’re going to want to try to keep a loose tension in the body of the blanket. CHs do not have the stretch that other stitches do. Adjust your hook size if it seems the body of the blanket is getting wider or thinner than the ribbed section.

– – – – – – – – – –

INSTRUCTIONS

TOP RIBBING

With smaller hook and COLOR A, CH11.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (10)

Rows 2-144 (or until ribbing measures about 29-30″ long): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 8 STS. SC in final ST. (10)

– – – – – – – – – –

BODY (Row count restarts back to 1)

Switch to larger hook. Pay attention in your first few rows, and if they seem like they are getting wider than the strip of ribbing, downsize your hook; if they are pulling the ribbing inward, choose a larger hook.

Body, Row 1: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), do not turn. We are now working down the long edge of the ribbing. Look at the edge of the ribbing as a series of tiny peaks and valleys. Skip over the first peak and SC in the valley right after it. (CH1, SK next peak, SC in next valley) across, putting your final SC in the corner of the ribbing at the other end. (72 CH1 spaces + 72 SC)

Rows 2-154: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), turn. SK first ST, SC in CH1 space. (CH1, SK next ST, SC in next CH1 space) across. (72 CH1 spaces + 72 SC). Use the following color pattern:

Rows 2-32 (32 rows): COLOR A
Rows 33-34 (2 rows): COLOR B
Rows 35-42 (8 rows): COLOR A
Rows 43-46 (4 rows): COLOR B
Rows 47-52 (6 rows): COLOR A
Rows 53-58 (6 rows): COLOR B
Rows 59-62 (4 rows): COLOR A
Rows 63-70 (8 rows): COLOR B
Rows 71-72 (2 rows): COLOR A
Rows 73-82 (10 rows): COLOR B
Rows 83-84 (2 rows): COLOR C
Rows 85-92 (8 rows): COLOR B
Rows 93-96 (4 rows): COLOR C
Rows 97-102 (6 rows): COLOR B
Rows 103-108 (6 rows): COLOR C
Rows 109-112 (4 rows): COLOR B
Rows 113-120 (8 rows): COLOR C
Rows 121-122 (2 rows): COLOR B
Rows 123-154 (32 rows): COLOR C

– – – – – – – – – – – – – –

BOTTOM RIBBING

In this section, we will be creating the bottom ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the body as we go. We’ll be referring to “Row 154”; that’s the last row of the body of the blanket we completed, and that’s what the ribbing will be attaching to. I cover this in the video tutorial for this blanket, but if you feel you need a little more in-depth help with this part, here’s another tutorial video that is specifically about this technique.

– – –

Switch to smaller hook; CH11.

Row 1: Turn. SC in 2^nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 9 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Row 154, the stitch on which your CH11 was built. SL ST into the 1st CH1 space from Row 154. (10, plus the two slip stitches along Row 154)

The section we just created, built on the CH11, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 154, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1^st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 9 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in next SC and next CH1 space along row 154. (10, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 154)

Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 154, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)

Rows 5-144: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way across Row 154.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

– – – – – – – – – –

Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #linenstitchbabyblanket and tag me @yarnandchai.design 

Hope you enjoyed it!

One of the most common Malia-related requests I get is for a blanket pattern. I always said I’d publish one, but it’s taken me a long time. (Sorry!)

Truthfully, I’ve been incredibly overwhelmed with life (business and otherwise) for a while. So about a year ago, I decided to <*gasp*> ask for some help. I commissioned a talented crocheter from our Facebook group to create a Malia Baby Blanket with the pattern I had in my head. It was a little scary for me, considering this was the first time I’d asked someone to invest time making pattern of mine that I hadn’t actually made and tested myself yet. But as you can see, it went well… and Erica did a phenomenal job with it!

I mean look at all those beautiful LBS stitches.

It’s taken me entirely too long to get this pattern published (again, life = overwhelming), but here it is!

ABOUT THE YARN

I sent Erica some Paintbox Simply DK for this sample. I’d never used Paintbox yarn before, and I have to say, the color choices are pretty amazing. I feel like some of the larger yarn companies are trending toward putting out more new lines of yarn with fewer colors to choose from in each one, and I love Paintbox’s philosophy of keeping it simple, because that enables them to be able to offer a wide variety of color choices. This particular yarn (Simply DK) is an acrylic, and while it’s soft, I wasn’t sure if it was soft enough to be a baby blanket. But with a wash, the blanket definitely softened up.

VIDEO TUTORIAL

If you need a little extra help with the stitches in the Malia stitch pattern, here is a video tutorial! (Please note that this tutorial does not follow the Malia Baby Blanket pattern; I simply show you how to do the Malia stitch pattern by crocheting up a swatch of it.)

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

MALIA BABY BLANKET

Difficulty: Easyish

Finished Size: Approx. 30” wide x 37.5” long (stroller blanket size). Each color block is approx. 7.5” tall.  

Hook: 4.5mm (US-7) hook

Yarn: Approx. 1,950 yards of #3 DK weight in 5 colors. You’ll need about 390 yards per color. Yarn used in sample photos is Paintbox Simply DK in Paper White (COLOR A), Stormy Grey (B), Marine Blue (C), Bubblegum Pink (D), and Neon Pink (E).

Gauge: 18 HDC x 14 rows = 4″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
BLO (back loop only)
3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

Special Stitches:

Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

3rd Loop Only
Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) A video tutorial for the stitch pattern is available up in the post, or by clicking here.
(4) You may prefer to use one hook size larger than your gauge hook to complete the ribbing at the beginning and end of the pattern. Some people tend to crochet ribbing a little tighter, which can result in some minor pulling inward at each end of the blanket.

INSTRUCTIONS

TOP RIBBING

With COLOR A, CH11.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (10)

Rows 2-144 (or until ribbing measures about 30″ long; be sure to complete an even number of rows): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 8 STS. SC in final ST. (10)

– – – – – – – – – –

BODY (Row count restarts back to 1)

Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC in each row end along the long edge of the ribbing. (144, or however many ribbing rows you completed)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 71 times. SC in final ST. (144)

Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (144)

Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3^rd loop of each of the next 142 STS. SC in final ST. (144)

Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (144)

Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 71 times. SC in final ST. (144)

Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (144)

Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3^rd loop of each of the next 142 STS. SC in final ST. (144)

Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (144)

Row 10: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 71 times. SC in final ST. (144)

Row 11: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (144)

Row 12: CH1, turn. SC in 3^rd loop of each ST across. (144)

Rows 13-28: Repeat Rows 5-12, in order, twice. (144)

– – – – – – – – – –

Switch to COLOR B; fasten off COLOR A.

Rows 29-60: Repeat Rows 5-12, in order, 4 times. (144)

Rows 61-64: Repeat Rows 5-8. (144)

– – – – – – – – – –

Switch to COLOR C; fasten off COLOR B.

Rows 65-68: Repeat Rows 9-12. (144)

Rows 69-100: Repeat Rows 5-12, in order, 4 times. (144)

– – – – – – – – – –

Switch to COLOR D; fasten off COLOR C.

Rows 101-132: Repeat Rows 5-12, in order, 4 times. (144)

Rows 133-136: Repeat Rows 5-8. (144)

– – – – – – – – – –

Switch to COLOR E; fasten off COLOR D.

Rows 137-140: Repeat Rows 9-12. (144)

Rows 141-164: Repeat Rows 5-12, in order, 3 times. (144)

– – – – – – – – – – – – – –

BOTTOM RIBBING

In this section, we will be creating the bottom ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the body as we go. We’ll be referring to “Row 164” quite a bit; that’s the last row of the body of the blanket we completed, and that’s what the ribbing will be attaching to. If you need a little help with this part, here’s a tutorial video.

CH11.
Row 1: Turn. SC in 2^nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 9 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Row 164, the stitch on which your CH11 was built. SL ST into the next SC from Row 164. (10, plus the two slip stitches along Row 164)

The section we just created, built on the CH11, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 164, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1^st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 9 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Row 164. (10, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 164)

Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 164, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)

Rows 5-144: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way across Row 164.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

– – – – – – – – – –

Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliababyblanket and tag me @yarnandchai.design 

Hope you enjoyed it!

I’m all about challenging myself in crochet, but sometimes I just need a simple pattern to relax with at the end of a long day. This blanket pattern, made completely of single crochet stitches, has been wonderful for that purpose!

I’ve been wanting to design an all-single-crochet blanket because I think the effect is so modern and sleek. Sometimes we get so caught up in thinking we need fancy stitches that we forget how modern a simple, clean design can look. Remember, if you’re gifting a blanket to a new mom with modern taste, she’s not going to care so much about fancy stitchwork – in fact, the fancier the stitchwork, the more “old-fashioned” the project can look. I can almost guarantee that she just wants a cute, soft blanket to wrap her baby in!

I chose the name “Summer Boardwalk Baby Blanket” because the colors remind me so much of the beach, and the multicolored sections remind me of the run-down wooden planks that often line a beach boardwalk.

About the Yarn

I chose Hobby Lobby’s Sweet Delight yarn (from their Baby Bee line) for this project, which is an acrylic baby yarn that is pleasantly soft. Sweet Delight is a really interesting line of DK (that’s #3 weight) yarn, because it boasts a mixture of coordinating solids as well as self-striping, marled, speckled, and variegated colorways, all working together to give you awesome options for colorwork. When I chose the colors for this blanket, I stood in the yarn aisle and searched for a self-striping skein that I loved, then chose three solids that matched the colors contained within it. I also grabbed a white for what has become sort of my signature blanket look – the ribbing on both edges. (So much more modern-looking than a full border!)

Beware, if you choose a different multi-colored yarn than I did to start with (for instance if you wanted to make a girly blanket), some of the multi-colored yarns in the line have long color changes, and some are more of a variegated… and it’s not easy to tell the difference at first glance! I learned this the hard way when I grabbed a skein of this beautiful white, lavender and green mixture. When I got home and started working with it, I discovered it was variegated (meaning, the color changes happened every couple of inches). You might like variegated yarns, but I’m not a huge fan of them, so I didn’t end up using it. If you want to avoid variegated, very carefully inspect the skein before you purchase it and make sure the color changes are more than a couple inches long. (Don’t destroy the skein and put it back on the shelf; that’s not cool.)

Lately, Hobby Lobby has been having this awesome 30% off all yarn sale every other week. I grabbed my yarn on sale week and at $5.29 retail price for 6 skeins, I was able to make this entire blanket for $23. Not bad!

One last thing. I don’t think of myself as a yarn snob, but I am sensitive to scratchy yarns. And when it comes to baby blankets, my standards are especially high. If you’re the same and are wondering how soft this yarn really is, I promise you, it’s soft! For an acrylic yarn, I was thrilled. You know how some yarns feel squishy soft in the skein but then when you start working them up, they just don’t feel that soft anymore? This one maintains its softness. Some of the colors felt softer than others, but I was not a bit disappointed in any of them. This baby blanket is actually a gift for my sister, who is giving birth to my newest nephew this week, if that tells you anything!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

SUMMER BOARDWALK BABY BLANKET

View on Ravelry

Difficulty: Easy / Beginner

Finished Size: 29″ wide x 37″ long

Hook: 4.5mm (US-7) hook

Yarn: Approx. 1,200 yards of #3 DK weight in 5 colors. To achieve the effect in the sample blanket, you’ll need to choose a self-striping yarn and a contrast color (for the ribbing) then choose 3 solid colors that coordinate with the self-striping yarn. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee Sweet Delight (from Hobby Lobby) in the following colors and amounts:

COLOR A (“Angel”) – 145 yards (this is the ribbing)
COLOR B (“Tricycle Time”) – 510* yards (this is the self-striping yarn) *This is a correction from the previously-published 340 yards
COLOR C (“Surf Baby”) – 170 yards (this is the aqua)
COLOR D (“Cloudy”) – 170 yards (this is the light tan)
COLOR E (“Toy Elephant”) – 170 yards (this is the dark tan-gray)

Gauge: 19 SC x 25 rows = 4″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) Whenever the instructions tell you to switch to a new color, you can fasten off the previous color.
(4) There is no stitch multiple for this pattern. If you want to make it wider, add rows to the first ribbing section. If you want to make it longer, simply repeat the color blocks, or make them thicker.

INSTRUCTIONS

TOP RIBBING

With COLOR A, CH11.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (10)

Rows 2-134 (or until ribbing measures about 29-30″ long): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 8 STS. SC in final ST. (10)

– – – – – – – – – –

BODY (Row count restarts back to 1)

Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC in each row end along the long edge of the ribbing. (134, or however many ribbing rows you completed)

Rows 2-4 (3 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

– – – – – – – – – –

Switch to COLOR B.

Rows 5-34 (30 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

– – – – – – – – – –

Switch to COLOR A.

Rows 35-38 (4 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

– – – – – – – – – –

Switch to COLOR C.

Rows 39-68 (30 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

– – – – – – – – – –

Switch to COLOR A.

Rows 69-72 (4 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

– – – – – – – – – –

Switch to COLOR B.

Rows 73-102 (30 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

– – – – – – – – – –

Switch to COLOR A.

Rows 103-106 (4 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

– – – – – – – – – –

Switch to COLOR D.

Rows 107-136 (30 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

– – – – – – – – – –

Switch to COLOR A.

Rows 137-140 (4 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

– – – – – – – – – –

Switch to COLOR B.

Rows 141-170 (30 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

– – – – – – – – – –

Switch to COLOR A.

Rows 171-174 (4 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

– – – – – – – – – –

Switch to COLOR E.

Rows 175-204 (30 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

– – – – – – – – – –

Switch to COLOR A.

Rows 205-208 (4 rows): CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (134)

– – – – – – – – – – – – – –

BOTTOM RIBBING

In this section, we will be creating the bottom ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the body as we go. We’ll be referring to “Row 208” quite a bit; that’s the last row of the body of the blanket we completed, and that’s what the ribbing will be attaching to. If you need a little extra help, check out my tutorial on how to add ribbing at the end of a crochet project.

CH11.
Row 1: Turn. SC in 2^nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 9 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Row 208, the stitch on which your CH11 was built. SL ST into the next SC from Row 208. (10, plus the two slip stitches along Row 208)

The section we just created, built on the CH11, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 208, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1^st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 9 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Row 208. (10, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 208)

Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 208, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)

Rows 5-134: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way across Row 208. (10)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

– – – – – – – – – –

Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #summerboardwalkbabyblanket and tag me @yarnandchai.design!

Hope you enjoyed it!

I am so excited to finally show you my newest little monkey’s baby blanket!

At the time I’m writing up this blog post, I’m 38 weeks along (although when it gets published, Baby Henry will already be born). I can feel him kicking around inside and I get the feeling he’s just as anxious to be born as I am to hold him in my arms.

For Henry’s blanket, I chose one of my favorite yarns, Cascade Longwood. It has a beautiful stitch definition that I knew would be important in a textured blanket like this. This definitely turned out to be a heavy, warm blanket, perfect for draping over the carseat of a winter baby.

When I started the blanket, I knew that I wanted to use ribbing for the ends to give it a nice finished, modern look. I started out intending to do the entire body of the blanket in herringbone half double crochet, but once I got through the first color block, I couldn’t let go of the nagging feeling that it needed a little more interest. So on a whim, I switched to one of my other favorite stitches, the SC+HDC combo for the 2nd color block. I loved the contrast between the blocks (and how it allowed me to change stitches just when I started getting bored), so I went with it! You can see the different textures – ribbing, herringbone, and SC+HDC – in the photo below.

I think this blanket would make a gorgeous, modern statement for a boy or a girl, depending on the colors you pick.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
UPDATE: He’s here!

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

HENRY’S BABY BLANKET

Level: Easyish

Size: Blanket measures 30″x38″. Adjustment instructions are given in Notes section.

Hook: H (5.0mm)

Yarn: I used about 1,330 yards of Cascade Longwood (from Jimmy Beans Wool), but any #4 worsted weight yarn will work. Here’s my breakdown, and the colors as assigned in the pattern:

COLOR A (White): Cascade Longwood – 01 White (about 220 yards, or <2 skeins)
COLOR B (Navy): Cascade Longwood – 40 Midnight (about 370 yards, or almost 2 full skeins)
COLOR C (Gray): Cascade Longwood – 02 Frost Gray (about 370 yards, or almost 2 full skeins)
COLOR D (Green): Cascade Longwood – 18 Green Spruce – discontinued (about 370 yards, or almost 2 full skeins)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Gauge: Not super important, but 14 rows of 16 HHDC = 4″.

Abbreviations Used:
   ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
   SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
BLO (back loops only)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(3) To adjust the width of your blanket, add or subtract rows from the first ribbing section of the pattern (just be sure to end up with an even number of ribs). To adjust the length of your blanket, you can add/subtract more blocks of color, or make each block taller/shorter.
(4) Blanket is worked in one piece (except for color changes). In other words, the ribbing at the bottom is not created and sewn on separately.

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SECTION 1: TOP RIBBING

To begin: With COLOR A (white), CH9.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (8)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each ST across. (8)

Rows 3-120 (or until ribbing measures about 30″ long, but keep it an even number):  CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each ST across. (8)

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SECTION 2: BODY OF BLANKET

The body of the blanket is divided into 6 color blocks which alternate between blocks of Herringbone HDC and blocks of SC+HDC combos. Each color block is separated by a thin, 2-row block of white.

Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly down the long edge of the ribbing, putting 1SC in each ribbing row (each peak and each valley). It is important to end with an even number of stitches in this row. (120)

Switch to COLOR B (navy), fasten off previous color.

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Rows 3-18: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (120)

Row 19: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

Rows 20-21: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR C (gray), fasten off previous color.

Row 22: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Rows 23-40: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (120)

Row 41: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

Rows 42-43: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR D (green), fasten off previous color.

Row 44: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Rows 45-60: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (120)

Row 61: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

Rows 62-63: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR B (navy), fasten off previous color.

Row 64: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Rows 65-82: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (120)

Row 83: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

Rows 84-85: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR C (gray), fasten off previous color.

Row 86: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Rows 87-102: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (120)

Row 103: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

Rows 104-105: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR D (green), fasten off previous color.

Row 106: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Rows 107-124: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (120)

Row 125: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

Switch to COLOR A (white), fasten off previous color.

Row 126: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (120)

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SECTION 3: BOTTOM RIBBING

In this section, we will be creating the bottom ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the body as we go. We’ll be referring to “Row 126” quite a bit; that’s the last row of the body of the blanket we completed, and that’s what the ribbing will be attaching to. 

CH9.

Bottom Ribbing, Row 1: Turn work and SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. SL ST in the first SC of Row 126, then SL ST in the next SC of Row 126 as well. (8, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 126)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 126, SC in BLO of each of the 8 STS of the ribbing to create another row of ribbing. (8)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each of the 8 STS of the ribbing to create another row of ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Row 126. (8, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 126)

Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 126, SC in BLO of each of the 8 STS of the ribbing to create another row of ribbing. (8)

Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along Row 126. (You should end up with 120 rows of ribbing, which is the number of stitches in Row 126).

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Today’s pattern release is a little out-of-the-norm for me. If you’re expecting a bundle of joy soon, or if you work with (or sell to) photographers, you might love it!

With the arrival of Baby Boy #3 less than 2 months away, I’m starting to think about what I want to do for his newborn photo session. I didn’t even know how to crochet when my two older (now 4 & 6) boys were born, so this is exciting!

I’m a big fan of the rustic-modern style, so I’ll definitely be incorporating that into the photos. I saw this pin on Pinterest not long ago and decided that a chalkboard crate was the way to go. I figured I’d have to DIY it, so I was really happy when I came across a baby-sized crate at Walmart that already had the chalkboard section built in. It doesn’t get much easier than that!

I decided to crochet a few fluffy blankets for the crate, and have been keeping my eyes open for the perfect yarns to achieve the cozy rustic look I want. I ended up choosing three different yarns, and whipped up some of the coziest looking prop blankets ever! These yarns are all different brands, but their colors and textures will work beautifully together or separately.

As you’ll see below, this pattern isn’t written out as a pattern so much as it is a formula, because it can work for any yarn and any hook size you choose. So instead of giving you detailed chain and stitch counts, I’ll teach you how to determine the right number of stitches for the yarn you choose, to get a beautiful 20″ x 20″ prop-sized blanket.

Since I know you’re probably wondering, here are the yarns that I used, and their accompanying hook sizes:

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Lion Brand Homespun (bulky)

Color: Shaker
Hook Size: K

This is not a beginner yarn, but I will say that this pattern is ideal for it. The crinkly texture of the yarn makes seeing your stitches tough, but the stitch combination we’re using makes it easy to feel where the hook gets inserted, thanks to the little holes that are created when we skip a stitch and put two stitches together in the next. The resulting blanket is really rustic looking.

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Bernat Home Bundle (super bulky)

Color: Not Sure (It was a mix of cream and white, and I can’t find it online anywhere)
Hook Size: N

I’d never noticed this yarn at the store before, but when I saw it at Joann Fabrics, I knew it was absolutely perfect for the look I wanted to achieve. Home Bundle is a supersized skein of 4 different textures of yarn: a faux-fur, Bernat Blanket, a regular super bulky yarn, and a yarn that feels really similar to Lion Brand Homespun. These textures show up in a self-striping pattern, and I did see a few colorways that featured different colors for each texture, but I opted for the all-cream skein because I didn’t want the jagged edges that come with abrupt color changes (which would be especially noticeable in this thick of a yarn). The resulting blanket is incredibly soft and looks just like something you’d want to snuggle around your newborn.

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Charisma Big! by Loops & Threads (bulky)

Color: Taupe
Hook Size: L

The color of this yarn is gorgeous! I’m always a sucker for really natural-looking neutral yarns, and this is a good one. This is the yarn that shows off the actual pattern the best of the three that I chose. I also opted to put a simple, boy-friendly (i.e. not frilly) border on this one, and included the instructions for it in the pattern below.

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NEWBORN PHOTOGRAPHY PROP BLANKET

Level: Easy

Size: 20″ x 20″

Yarn: Your choice

Hook: Whatever will work well with the yarn you chose

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, measuring tape

Gauge:
Not important

Abbreviations Used:
   ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
   SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(3) This pattern will work for any size blanket and you can chain any number to start as long as it’s an odd number.

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To begin:
Being sure to chain an odd number of chains, chain until your starting chain is about 19-20″ in length.

Row 1: SC+HDC in 3rd CH from hook. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across.

Row 2: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across.

Repeat Row 2 until your blanket measures about 20″ in length. Fasten off and weave in ends, or continue on to Optional Edging, below.

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Optional Edging
If you want to give your blanket a nice finished edge without drawing a lot of attention to it (remember, we’re going for the rustic look, not the fancy look), follow these instructions:

Round 1: CH1, turn. SC evenly around the entire blanket, putting 3SC in each corner. (On the sides of the blanket where there aren’t already defined stitches, you can put 1SC in each row.) Join to the first SC with a SL ST.

Round 2: CH1. SL ST in each SC around the entire blanket, putting (SL ST, CH1, SL ST) in each corner stitch. Join to the first SL ST with a SL ST.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.