Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!

It’s coming near to the end of August, which means we’ll soon enter into the month that brings my favorite season of all — Autumn! That means it’s time for cowls, scarves, hats, boot cuffs… do you know how happy this makes me? As much as I’ve had fun coming up with home decor patterns for the last few months, fall/winter accessories are my happy place.

To kick off the season of apple crisp and hayrides, I’ve designed the first accessory in the Little Monkeys Crochet Fall ’16 lineup, the Herringbone Buttoned Cowl. This is a snug little piece of neckwear that is perfect for layering. On a cool day, it looks great worn with a shirt and jeans. On a colder evening, tuck it under your winterwear and let the ribbed collar peek out – the bottom of the cowl is nice and flat, so it won’t add bulk under your coat!

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The Yarn

For this pattern, I used the gorgeous, relatively-new Vanna’s Style (from Lion Brand), which is a DK (that’s a #3 weight) yarn. (Don’t confuse this with Vanna’s Choice, which is a #4 worsted yarn!) This yarn is stunning. It has the most beautiful stitch definition, which shows off the rows of the Herringbone stitch really nicely. It isn’t too shiny, but has just enough sheen to give it an elegant look. I haven’t found Vanna’s Style in any of my local stores yet, but you can always purchase it direct from Lion Brand.

And if you love matching sets, check out the Herringbone Slouch:

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HERRINGBONE BUTTONED COWL

Difficulty: Easyish

Finished Size: 29″ wide x 12″ tall (when laid flat)

Hook: G (4.25mm)

Yarn: About 390-400 yards of Vanna’s Style DK Yarn by Lion Brand (that’s less than 2 skeins). The sample is shown in “Silver”.

Gauge: 16 rows of 17 HHDC = 4″ (see “Special Stitch” below for explanation of HHDC)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 2 buttons (3/4″ or 1″), sewing needle, and thread to match yarn color.

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
BLO (back loops only)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH2 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
(3) The pattern is divided into 3 parts: the Top Band, the Body, and the Side Band. The pattern as a whole is worked in one piece (there is no sewing at the end).

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THE PATTERN

Part 1: Top Band

To begin: CH9.

Top Band, Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (8)

Rows 2-120: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Row 121 (buttonhole): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (6 + CH2)

Row 122: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. 2SC in CH2 space. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Rows 123-124: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Part 2: Body

(Note that for ease of row counting, we are referring to the next row as “Row 1” instead of “Row 125”.)

Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly down the long edge of the piece, putting 1SC in each row. (124)

Row 2: CH1, turn. HHDC in each of the first 115 STS. 9 STS remain unworked (and will remain so for the remainder of Part 2). (115)

Rows 3-42: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (115)

Note: At this point, you should be on the same side of the cowl as the buttonhole we made back in Row 121 of the Top Band. If you’re on the opposite side you probably miscounted something, but it’s no big deal; just do one more row of HHDC to get yourself to where you need to be.

Row 43: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly up the side of the cowl, working toward the buttonhole, putting 1SC in each row until you reach the inner corner where the top band and the body meet. (41 SC)

Part 3: Side Band

(Remember back in Row 2 of the body, when we left 9 stitches unworked? We’re going to be working in those now.)

Side Band, Row 1 (highlighted in yellow in the photo below): SL ST to the closest unworked ST from Row 2 of the body section. CH1. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 unworked STS. SC in both loops of the final unworked ST. (8 SC)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Row 43 of the body. (8, + the 2 SL STS along Row 43)

Row 3: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

Rows 4-23: Repeat rows 2-3. (8)

Row 24 (buttonhole): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 3 STS. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Row 43 of the body. (6SC + CH2 buttonhole, + the 2 SL STS along Row 43)

Row 25: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. 2SC in CH2 space. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Rows 26-41: Repeat rows 2-3. (8)

Row 42: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in the final ST of Row 43 of the body. (8, + 1 SL ST along Row 43)

Depending on your placement of the first SCs from Row 43 of the body, your piece may look like it still needs one more row of ribbing to bring it even with the edge of the cowl. If so, go ahead and add that last row of ribbing by putting a SL ST into the CH1 space you created at the beginning of Row 43 of the body. CH1 and turn, and complete another row.

Edging: CH1, turn. SC evenly around the entire piece, putting 3SC in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the first SC.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Buttons: Lay your scarf flat, with the corner buttonhole at the top left corner. Your first button should be sewn 1 inch (both sides) from the bottom right corner; your second button should be sewn 6 inches from the right edge, 1 inch from the bottom edge (in line with the first button).

To Wear:

It can feel a bit tricky at first! Start by putting it around your neck with the buttonhole on your left, and the Top Band at the top. The button that is NOT in the corner is the button that will go through the top buttonhole. Once you’ve joined those together, you can slip the corner button through the second buttonhole, then tuck the extra fabric under the cowl. If you need a little extra help, watch this video of the Sparkly Buttoned Cowl (it’s the same style of cowl):

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for supplying the yarn for this sample!

I know, I know. This one looks familiar. I already used this stitch on a cowl, so what am I doing releasing the same pattern again?

But it’s not the same pattern!

I’ve said it many times — when I find a stitch I love, I get really fixated on it. This has been one of those stitches. So far I’ve made that other cowl, boot cuffs, and a gorgeous rustic-modern blanket.

So for this cowl, I decided that I really wanted it in a color-blocked style. I had my eye on some yarn from Lion Brand’s LB Collection, called 100% Superwash Merino, that I wanted to use. The problem with that other cowl is that I worked it in vertical rows instead of horizontal, so I couldn’t have achieved the color-blocked look with that pattern. So, I decided to write up a similar-but-different pattern, working it in horizontal rows this time. I love how it turned out!

About the Yarn

I don’t wear a lot of bright colors; I’m most comfortable in blacks and grays. (I’m not a sad person, I promise. I just find gray very cozy.) But I have been trying to inject a little color into my wardrobe lately, and my favorite color to pair with classic gray is deep purple. 100% Superwash Merino Yarn from the LB Collection is a really pretty lightweight (#3) yarn that has a nice array of colors to choose from. I chose Wisteria, Charcoal, and Purple for my cowl. The yarn itself was a pleasure to work with. There was virtually no splitting (yay!) and it showed of the stitches really nicely. LB Collection Yarn is only available online at lionbrand.com, their studio in NYC, their outlet in New Jersey, or in the Lion Design catalog. (In other words, you won’t find it at the big craft stores or in your local yarn shop.)

If you’re thinking about using 100% Superwash Merino from Lion Brand in your own cowl, here are a few color schemes I put together that you might like:

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COMFY SQUARES COLOR BLOCK COWL

Level: Easy

Size: Cowl measures 28″ wide by 14.5″ tall before seaming.*
*It should probably be noted here that while most of my patterns are modeled on real people, this one is staged on a standard sized jewelry bust that you find at craft stores, which is only about 10″ wide at the shoulders. Keep this in mind when you decide whether or not to adjust the pattern, because if you want it to look as full on you as it does in the photo, you’ll want to increase your starting chain (just keep it an odd number). The good news is, if you use the recommended yarn, you’ll have plenty of yarn in your skeins to do it.

Hook:  H (5.00mm)

Yarn: LB Collection 100% Superwash Merino (#3 light yarn) in 3 colors. You will need 170 yards each of the bottom two colors, and 205 yards of the top color (it uses more because of the ribbing at the top).

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Gauge: A row of 18SC = about 4″ in length.

Abbreviations Used:
   ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
   SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
FPDC (front post double crochet)
BPDC (back post double crochet)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(3) To adjust the width of your cowl, add or subtract from your starting CH (just begin with an odd number of CHs). To adjust the length of your blanket, add or subtract an even number of rows to/from each color block.
(4) Cowl is worked from the bottom up, so keep this in mind when choosing the order of colors you work with.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
With first color, CH125.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC across. (124)

Rows 2-21: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (124)

Row 22: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (124)

Helpful tip: The SCs in Rows 22 & 23 help us to create a nice straight line where color blocks come together. If we didn’t add it, the color changes would have a more jagged edge.

Switch to a new color; fasten off previous color, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Row 23: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (124)

Rows 24-43: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (124)

Row 44: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (124)

Switch to a new color; fasten off previous color, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Row 45: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (124)

Rows 46-59: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (124)

Row 60: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (124)

Row 61: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (124)

Rows 62-67: CH1, turn. FPDC in first ST, BPDC in next ST. (FPDC in next ST, BPDC in next ST) across.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Leaving your 3 long tails alone (there should be one of each color), weave in all other tails to get them out of the way.

Seaming
Lay your cowl flat, then bring the sides together and match up the color blocks. Use a yarn needle to sew each color block closed with its matching yarn tail. Weave in all ends.

© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

I have received so many requests for a scarf or cowl pattern to match the Macchiato Slouch Hat. I didn’t bother with it because the reality of that hat is that it’s actually incredibly simple (just rounds of HDCs), and it was the Scarfie yarn that made it so unique-looking. So a matching cowl would be, simply, rounds of HDC.

I’ve realized though, after being asked for a matching pattern so many times, that not everyone can make something without a pattern to follow.

And that’s ok!

I think improvising simply comes naturally to some people and not to others. So, I went ahead and whipped up the easiest-ever cowl to match. I wrote out the pattern, which is at the bottom of this post!

About the Yarn

Each skein of Scarfie has very gradual color changes between two colors. I immediately gravitated to the Cream/Taupe, because, well, I’m a sucker for a good taupe color. Each skein has 312 yards of bulky weight yarn, so you’ve got plenty to make a beautiful, ombre-style accessory.

The Matching Slouch Hat

Click here to view the Macchiato Slouch Hat pattern.

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THE MACCHIATO COWL

Level: Easy

Size:
Cowl measures 30″ around and is 12″ tall.

Hook: N (9.00mm)
Yarn: About 250 yards of #5 chunky weight yarn; I used Lion Brand Scarfie Yarn in Cream/Taupe.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Gauge:
A row of 5HDC = about 2” long

Abbreviations Used:
   ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
CH (chain)
HDC (double crochet)
FHDC (foundation half double crochet — optional, but recommended. View tutorial here.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in a seamless round. Only join or chain when instructed to do so. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the first ST of each round.
(3) Finding knots in your yarn is just an annoying and unavoidable reality of crocheting, and with a gradual-change yarn like this one, it’s especially aggravating when the knot joins yarn from two completely different parts of the color change pattern. This happened to me while making this cowl, and all I did to fix the situation was cut the yarn just before the knot, then pull the yarn from the skein until I got back to the point in the pattern where I had left off, and joined the new yarn there.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Round 1:
FHDC 72. Join ends together with a SL ST into the first FHDC, being careful not to twist the round. (72)

Optional start:
CH73. HDC in 2^nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first HDC, being careful not to twist the round. (72)

Round 2: DO NOT CHAIN. HDC in first ST and in each ST around. DO NOT JOIN.

Rounds 3-26 (or until cowl measures about 12” tall): HDC in each ST around.

SL ST into the next 3 STS to smooth down the round. Fasten off; weave in all ends. If you used the Foundation HDC method, use your starting tail to sew together the gap between your first and last FHDC, then weave in to finish.

I came up with this pattern totally out of curiosity. I’ve done so much with the “SC+DC in next, SK next” combo (like here, here and here), and one night I was sitting on the couch with a partial skein of Hobby Lobby’s “I Love This Yarn – Sport” and a G hook, trying to make up some boot cuffs with the same stitch and an added ribbed band, but it just wasn’t working. The double crochet stitch was making the rows too tall for the single crochet banding, and the fabric was getting warped instead of laying flat.

So, wondering what it would look like if I exchanged the SC+DC for SC+HDC, I frogged what I had and gave it a try.

I loved the result!

I love those stitches that look like one thing while you’re making them, and then quite a few rows in when you look at everything together, they look different. Case in point: the SC+HDC combo looked pretty similar to the SC+DC combo as I was making it, but after I had a few inches of fabric done, I noticed that as a whole, it looked like a nice, neat pattern of little textured squares. I thought it was really beautiful against the contrast of the ribbed band, too. So, I went with it — and created a brand new cowl pattern!

This cowl could be pretty easily created with worsted weight yarn as well — you would just want to adjust your stitch counts to match the cowl’s intended measurements (listed in the pattern). But I just love the look and feel of the #3 lightweight yarn. It has this beautiful drape that makes wearing it totally effortless. Anything that is “throw it on and go” is a winner in my book.

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COMFY SQUARES TEXTURED COWL

Size:
 Cowl measures 30″ around and is 12″ tall.
Gauge:
 With H hook, 5SC = 1” in length
Hook: H (5.0mm)
Yarn: 420-430 yards of #3 (light) yarn (such as Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn Sport)
You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Abbreviations Used:
CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) It is crocheted as a flat piece, then seamed at the end.
(3) CH1 at the beginning of rounds does not count as a stitch.
(4) The phrase “(SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 21 times” means 21 times total.
(5) Only crochet in BLO (back loops only) when specifically instructed. So for instance, here is Row 2, with only the BLO stitches in purple:

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 21 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SC in last ST. (54)

(The reason we don’t put the very first and last STS of the row in BLO is because it helps keep the edge nice and neat-looking.)

PATTERN

To begin:
CH55.

Row 1:  SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in each of the next 7 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 21 times. SC in each of the last 4 STS. (54)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 21 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SC in last ST. (54)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 21 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in last ST. (54)

Rows 4-113 (or until piece measures 30″ in length): Repeat rows 2-3. (54)

Fasten off, leaving a 36″ tail. Use your yarn needle and finishing tail to seam both ends of the cowl together. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Fall is HERE! It’s time for sweaters, hayrides, pumpkins and apple-pie-scented-candles. This has always been my favorite time of the year, and I do my best to indulge in as many fall-related activities as I possibly can. Because as we all know (well, at least those of us who live in the Midwest, USA), this season goes waaaaaaaaaaay too fast.

My little monkeys and I have a tradition that actually goes back to before they were born. On the first day of fall, I always celebrate by making apple crisp. Now that they’re old enough, my boys have joined in on this little ritual.

Click here to view my Homemade Apple Crisp recipe!

This year is the first year that my oldest monkey is in school all day, and also the first year that my youngest monkey is in preschool for the mornings. So while I wait for them to get home for our apple-crisp-making party, I’m celebrating the first day of fall in another way, too… with a new pattern release!

The Apple Crisp Cowl is actually a mixture of two other patterns: the Sparkly Buttoned Cowl, and the Maribel Cowl. I love my Sparkly Buttoned Cowl, but it’s pretty fancy-looking, especially with the metallic yarn I used. I love the way it’s shaped though, so I wanted to come up with a more casual version of the same cowl style. I also love the ribbing on the Maribel Cowl, so I started there. And the Apple Crisp Cowl was born.

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APPLE CRISP COWL

Level: Easy

Size:
Approximately 30″ long by 11″ tall

Materials:

• I hook (5.50mm) and K hook (6.50mm)
• Yarn needle
• Approximately 350-360 yards of your favorite worsted weight yarn – such as Vanna’s Choice
• Two buttons, approximately 1″

Gauge:
With I hook, 4HDC = 1″

Stitches Used:
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
FHDC (Foundation Half Double Crochet; view tutorial here)
RibHDC (also known as Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC; view tutorial here)
SK (Skip)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) This pattern calls for two different sizes of crochet hooks. A larger hook is used on the top edge to keep it from pulling, because of the way that the cowl is constructed. Hook change is noted in the pattern.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Using I hook:

Row 1:  FHDC 38. (View a tutorial here… or if Foundation Stitches are not your cup o’ cider, you can also CH39, then HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH.)

Row 2: CH1, turn. RibHDC across. (38)

Rows 3-83 (or until it measures about 30″ in length): Repeat Row 2. (38)

Switch to K hook.

Row 84: CH1, DO NOT TURN. SC in same ST (the last ST from Row 83). SC evenly down the long edge of your project. (83)

Rows 85-87: CH1, turn. SC across. (83)

Row 88 (buttonhole): CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 2 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS, SC in next. SC the rest of the way across. (83, counting CH2)

Row 89: CH1, turn. SC across, putting 2SC in the CH2 buttonhole space from the previous row.

Rows 90-91: CH1, turn. SC across.

Edging: CH1, do not turn. SC around the entire piece, putting (SC, CH1, SC) in each corner.

Buttons: Lay your scarf flat, with the buttonhole at the top left corner. Your first button should be sewn 1 inch (both sides) from the bottom right corner; your second button should be sewn 6 inches from the right edge, 1 inch from the bottom edge (in line with the first button).

TO WEAR:

It can feel a bit tricky at first! Start by putting it around your neck with the buttonhole on your left, and the SC rows at the top. The button that is NOT in the corner is the button that will go through the buttonhole. Once you’ve joined those together, you can slip the corner button through whichever part of the scarf you want to achieve your desired look. If you need a little extra help, watch this video of the Sparkly Buttoned Cowl (it’s the same type of cowl):

Last winter, I had the privilege of designing a cowl for All Free Crochet’s blog, Stitch & Unwind. I had a lot of fun doing it, and I am loving the final result. Now, the full pattern is available right here on my blog!

This cowl is made with Lion Brand’s Heartland in “Grand Canyon”, and I highly recommend using it because it makes the detailing and drape sooo pretty. I also made a matching slouch hat pattern!

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SANDY COWL

Size: 30” around x 10” tall
Gauge: With I hook, 6 SC = 2”
Stitches Used: CH, SC, DC, SL ST

You Will Need:

• Approx. 280 yards of your favorite worsted weight yarn (I used Lion Brand’s Heartland)
• Hook Size I (5.50mm)
• Yarn needle
• Stitch marker

Notes:
(1) Pattern is written in American standard terms.
(2) Pattern is begun in turned rounds, then switches to a seamless round and back again. These changes are noted in the pattern. Use a stitch marker during the seamless round to keep track of your rounds.

INSTRUCTIONS

To begin:
CH 91.

Round 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each ST across. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC, being careful not to twist the round. (90)

Round 2: CH1; turn. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (90)

Rounds 3-7: Repeat Round 2. (90)

You will now work in a seamless round. Do not join, chain or turn until instructed to do so.

Round 8: SC+DC in first ST, SK next ST. (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around. (90)

Round 9: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around. (90)

(Wondering if your placement is correct? Your SC+DC combos should be completed in the tops of each SC from previous row, with each DC from previous row being left empty.)

Rounds 10-26: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around. (90)

Round 27: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around, substituting a (SC+SL ST) for the last (SC+DC) combination. (90)

Round 28: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (90)

You will now work in turned rounds.

Round 29: CH1; turn. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to to of first SC. (90)

Rounds 30-34: Repeat Round 29. (90)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

I never publish a pattern I’m not excited about. But sometimes, when a certain idea comes along, what I see in my head translates to what I create with my hands… and I totally fall in love with the finished product. This is one of those patterns! I just love it.

The Maribel Cowl (along with its matching Boot Cuffs) is possibly one of my favorite personal designs of my first year in business (which wraps up in January, believe it or not!). It’s not that spectacular; it’s actually really simple. But it’s a stitch that I don’t often see being used, and the result is a gorgeously textured, almost faux-knit accessory that will keep you stylish all winter long.

This pattern would look great in any color, but I am almost always partial to natural, neutral colors, so I chose Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in “linen.” I love how it came out. If you follow my lead, you’re going to need 2 skeins, so be sure to check your dye lots! It’s always a good thing to do, but I’ve noticed that this particular color of ILTY tends to vary greatly and can often take on an almost pinkish hue. Just a tip.

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MARIBEL COWL

Hook: K (6.50mm)
Yarn: Worsted (I used about 500 yards, or less than 2 skeins, of Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in “linen”)
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: Not crucial, but a row of 10 HDC = about 3″
Finished Size: Approximately 34″ around, 15″ tall

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern uses a stitch I call RibHDC, in which you complete your half double crochet stitch in the single loop just below the loops you usually use. This is what gives the cowl a faux-knit, ribbed look. For a visual explanation, you can view this photo tutorial.
(3) HELPFUL HINT: When RibHDC-ing, sometimes it’s easy to miss the last stitch of the row because it ends up at a bit of an angle. So, if your cowl is getting skinnier and skinnier, you’re probably neglecting it. Counting your stitches will solve this problem. 🙂
(4) Starting Ch does not count as an HDC.

THE PATTERN

To begin: Ch 54.

Row 1: HDC in 2nd Ch from hook, and in each St across. (53 HDC not counting the Ch)

Row 2: Ch1; turn. RibHDC across. (53 RibHDC)

Rows 3-88 (or until cowl is about 34″ long): Ch1; turn. RibHDC across. (53 RibHDC)

Fasten off, leaving a long finishing tail. Use the tail to whip stitch the last row to the first row, joining the piece into a cowl. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

THICK ‘N COZY RIBBED COWL

Hook: P (11.50mm)
Yarn: Super Bulky (I used 3 skeins of Lion Brand’s “Hometown USA”)
Buttons: 4 large. I used 1″ wooden buttons.
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: Not crucial, but a row of 10 HDC = about 6″
Finished Size: Approximately 27″ around, 13″ tall

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in rows, then sewn together at the end. The buttons are optional, and you may choose to use them as functioning buttons, but I decided to sew the cowl together and add the buttons to be decorative. (In other words, in my finished cowl, the sewing is holding it together, not the buttons; although, it appears as though the buttons are functional.) If you choose to not sew your cowl together and instead rely on functioning buttons or toggles, be sure to use large enough buttons that they will not slip through the large spaces created by using such a bulky yarn and large hook.
(3) As noted above, this pattern uses a stitch I call RibHDC, in which you complete your half double crochet stitch in the single loop just below the loops you usually use. This is what gives the cowl a faux-knit, ribbed look. For a visual explanation, you can view this photo tutorial.
(4) HELPFUL HINT: When RibHDC-ing, sometimes it’s easy to miss the last stitch of the row because it ends up at a bit of an angle. So, if your cowl is getting skinnier and skinnier, you’re probably neglecting it. Counting your stitches will solve this problem. 🙂

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THE PATTERN

To begin: Ch 43.

Row 1: HDC in 2nd Ch from hook, and in each St across. (42 HDC not counting the Ch)

Row 2: Ch1; turn. RibHDC across. (42 RibHDC)

Rows 3-19 (or until scarf is about 12″ tall): Ch1; turn. RibHDC across. (42 RibHDC)

Row 20: Ch1; turn. SC evenly around the entire cowl.

Fasten off, leaving a long finishing tail. Weave in your starting tail only, then choose one of the following options for finishing.

Finishing Option 1: Decorative Buttons or Toggles
Fold your cowl so that the ends meet. Overlap one edge about 1″ over the other edge, then use your long finishing tail to sew them together, going up and down through both edges of the cowl with small stitches. Fasten off and weave in. Attach 4 large buttons or toggles in even increments down the seam so that it appears as though the cowl has been “buttoned up.”

Finishing Option 2: Functional Buttons or Toggles
Weave in your finishing tail (you won’t need it for this option). Sew 4 large buttons or toggles evenly down one side. To wear, slip the buttons or toggles through the stitches of the other end of the cowl.

Whew! It’s been a while since I’ve published a free pattern. Our family is getting ready for a big move, and most days it’s all I can do to keep up with the packing and planning!

This pattern is one I’ve “seen” in my mind for a while now, and I finally had the chance to work it out on paper and make a sample. Ever since I created the Sweet Ocean Breeze Baby Blanket pattern, I’ve known that the stitch combo would make a beautiful scarf. And now that summer is winding down and I’m starting to think about Christmas presents, I’ve decided it’s time to start shifting my focus to my favorite time of year. Because one thing you’ll learn about me, if you’re new around here, is that I. Love. Scarves. I LOVE them! But enough about me.

This elegant cowl is made with 2 strands of Vanna’s Choice Glamour in Platinum, held together. You’ll need 4 skeins total. Vanna’s Choice Glamour yarn has a reflective thread running through it, which gives this cowl a gorgeous, sparkly finish. It’s a fun, beginner-friendly sport weight yarn, and you can purchase it here! Throw the finished cowl over a dark-colored shirt or dress and you’re ready to go.—

Also, here’s a helpful video demonstrating how to actually wear the cowl. Sometimes it’s just easier to see someone put it on. 🙂

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Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

SPARKLY BUTTONED COWL

Finished Size: Approximately 29″ long by 12″ wide
Stitches Used: Ch, SC, DC
Yarn: Category 2 Sport Weight, 2 strands held together (I used 4 skeins of Vanna’s Choice Glamour in Platinum, available here)
Hook: Size K (6.5mm)
Buttons: 1″-1.25″ (2 of them). I used Cut-Outs #2404 from Joann Fabrics.
Notes: Pattern is written in American standard terms.

To begin: Holding 2 strands together, Ch 79.

Row 1: In 3rd Ch from hook, 1SC + 1DC. (Skip next St; 1 SC + 1 DC in next St) across.

Row 2: Ch2; turn. (Skip next St; 1 SC + 1 DC in next St) across. (Hint: You are working between the SC+DC pairings from the previous row. If you stretch out the row a bit, you’ll be able to see the small spaces in which you’ll be working. The last two stitches will go in the Ch2 space from the previous row.)

Rows 3-30: Repeat row 2.

Row 31: Ch 1; turn. (Skip next St; 2 SC in next St) across. (You are still working between the SC+DC pairings from the previous row; but note the switch to all SCs in this row.)

Row 32: Ch 1; turn. SC across.

Rows 33-36: Repeat row 32.

Row 37 (buttonhole): Ch 1; turn. SC in first 2 Sts. Ch 1; Sk 1 St. SC in each remaining St.

Row 38: Ch 1; turn. SC across, including 1 SC in the Ch1 space from the previous row.

Rows 39-40: Ch 1; turn. SC across.  Finish off; weave in all ends. Use photos to help you place buttons.

Lay your scarf flat, with the buttonhole at the top left corner. Your first button should be sewn 1 inch (both sides) from the bottom right corner; your second button should be sewn 6 inches from the right edge, 1 inch from the bottom edge (in line with the first button).

To wear: It can feel a bit tricky at first, but the easiest way to visualize how to wear the cowl is to button it before you put it on. The button that is NOT in the corner is the button that will go through the buttonhole. Once you’ve joined those together, you can slip the corner button through whichever part of the scarf you want to achieve your desired look. (For the photo at the top of the post, I inserted the corner button about halfway down the left edge of the cowl (and by left edge, I am referring to the one on the left in the button photo just above.) Enjoy!