Category: Crochet Patterns

Herringbone Slouch

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!

Last month I published the pattern for the Herringbone Buttoned Cowl, which seems to have gotten a great response!

Lots of you loved it, and I promised that I would make a slouch hat to match. Well, it’s a little later than I had planned on releasing it, but here it is!

The Yarn

For both patterns, I used the gorgeous, relatively-new Vanna’s Style (from Lion Brand), which is a DK (that’s a #3 weight) yarn. (Don’t confuse this with Vanna’s Choice, which is a #4 worsted yarn!) This yarn is stunning. It has the most beautiful stitch definition, which shows off the rows of the Herringbone stitch really nicely. It isn’t too shiny, but has just enough sheen to give it an elegant look. I haven’t found Vanna’s Style in any of my local stores yet, but you can always purchase it direct from Lion Brand.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

HERRINGBONE SLOUCH

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 9.5″ wide x 9.5″ tall (when laid flat)

Hook: G (4.25mm) & H (5.00mm)

Yarn: About 200-210 yards of Vanna’s Style DK Yarn by Lion Brand (not including optional pom pom). Vanna’s Style is a #3 light yarn. The sample is shown in “Silver”.

Gauge: 16 rows of 17 HHDC = 4″ (see “Special Stitch” below for explanation of HHDC)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
BLO (back loops only)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: Leaving at least a 12″ starting tail, CH33. (We’ll use the starting tail to cinch the hat at the end.)

Row 1: HHDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (32)

Rows 2-88, or until piece measures 22″ long (just make sure you do an even number of rows): CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (32)

Switch to H Hook.

Row 89: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly down the long edge, putting 1SC in each row. (88)

Ribbed Band

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to Row 89 of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Ribbing Row 1: CH9. SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in remaining 7 CHS. SL ST to the first SC of Row 89. SL ST to the next ST of that row. (8, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Ribbing Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the previous ribbing row. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

Ribbing Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Row 89. (8, plus 2 SL STS)

Ribbing Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the previous ribbing row. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way down the edge.

Because Row 89 consisted of an even number of stitches, you should be ending with a repeat of Row 4, with your hook now at the bottom corner of the flat piece (see Figure 1, below).

Seaming & Cinching the Hat Closed

Fasten off your yarn, leaving a 24″ tail. Bring the short ends of the hat together and sew them up using your tail and a yarn needle (see Figure 2). When you reach the top, tie a knot, fasten off and weave in the end.

Thread your starting tail through the yarn needle and weave it in and out along the very top edge of the hat (see figure 3). I wove mine through every two rows. When you pull on the starting tail, you’ll start to notice the hat beginning to cinch itself up.

When you’ve gone all the way around the circle, pull the tail as tight as you can (without breaking the yarn!) and tie a couple of knots. You may want to sew across the cinch a few times to really secure it. Then, fasten off and weave in the tail. Turn your hat right-side out.

Done! Add a pom pom if you want, or leave as is.

October 7, 2016
Savannah Slouch Hat

This season, I’ve gotten very excited about the Herringbone Stitch. There are so many different ways to change up the look of this stitch! Today, I’m introducing a set of patterns that utilize the Herringbone Double Crochet stitch (HbDC), worked in a continuous round.

The interesting thing about this stitch for me was that as I started experimenting with it, I quickly discovered that while the right side of my work kind of bored me, I was intrigued by the texture showing up on the wrong side. So, I designed the Savannah Slouch Hat to showcase the wrong side!

This pattern is great for a confident beginner to wants to branch out beyond those most basic stitches we all learn at first.

And, it has a matching scarf which is even more beginner friendly! Showcasing a different texture on each side, the matching scarf is so simple; you’ll definitely want to bring it along to your next Netflix binge.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

SAVANNAH SLOUCH HAT

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 9″ tall x 9.5″ wide (when laid flat)

Hooks: K (6.5mm) and H (5.00mm)

Yarn: About 150 yards of Vanna’s Choice by Lion Brand (that’s a little less than 1 skein). Vanna’s Choice is a #4 aran yarn. The sample is shown in “Linen”.

Gauge: With larger hook, 10 rows of 11 HbDC = 4″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker, 3 small buttons, sewing needle, and thread to match yarn color.

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
HbDC (herringbone double crochet; see “special stitch” below)

Special Stitch:
HbDC – Herringbone Double Crochet. When worked in the round without turning, this stitch creates two beautiful and very different textures on either side of the piece. Here’s how you do it:

HbDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through first loop on hook. Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over again and pull the loop through both loops on the hook.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round until the band. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: Make a MC; CH1.

Round 1: 12 HbDC in MC. (12)

Round 2: 2 HbDC in each ST around. (24)

Round 3: 2 HbDC in each ST around. (48)

Round 4: (2 HbDC in next ST, 1 HbDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (64)

Rounds 5-15: HbDC in each ST around. (64)

If you want a slouchier hat, add more rounds here before moving on to Round 16.

Round 16: HbDC in each of the first 56 STS (6 STS remain). HDC in each of the next 2 STS. SC in each of the next 2 STS. SL ST in each of the 2 remaining STS. (64)

Switch to H Hook.

Round 17: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. (Do not join.) CH9. This is the base for our button flap. (64 + CH9)

Round 18: Turn. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in remaining 7 CHs. Continue to SC in each ST around (you’re going in the opposite direction from Round 17). (72)

Rounds 19-23: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around (including the button flap). (72)

Round 24 (edging): CH1, do not turn. SC in each ST around flap and around the entire base, putting 3SC in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC.

Fasten off. Turn hat inside out to display the “wrong side” (the one with more texture). Now considering this the outside of the hat, weave your ends securely into the inside of the hat.

Button Flap
Line up the flap with the section of the band that it will overlap, and use a needle and appropriately-colored thread to sew it in place. Position buttons as desired and sew them in place as well.

September 22, 2016
Savannah Infinity Scarf

This season, I’ve gotten very excited about the Herringbone Stitch. There are so many different ways to change up the look of this stitch! Today, I’m introducing a set of patterns that utilize the Herringbone Double Crochet stitch (HbDC), worked in a continuous round.

If you’re a beginner who already has the most basic stitches under your belt, you’re going to love this scarf pattern! You’ll learn a new stitch and have plenty of practice with it as you go round and round the scarf.

And the great news is, there’s a matching slouch hat!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

SAVANNAH INFINITY SCARF

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: Approximately 64″ around, 7″ wide

Hook: I (5.50mm)

Yarn: About 360 yards of Vanna’s Choice by Lion Brand (that’s a little more than 2 skeins). Vanna’s Choice is a #4 aran yarn. The sample is shown in “Linen”.

Gauge: 5 rows of 6 HbDC = 2″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle and stitch marker

Abbreviations Used:
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
FSC (foundation single crochet; see tutorial here)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
HbDC (herringbone double crochet; see “special stitch” below)

Special Stitch:
HbDC – Herringbone Double Crochet. When worked in the round without turning, this stitch creates two beautiful and very different textures on either side of the piece. Here’s how you do it:

HbDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through first loop on hook. Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over again and pull the loop through both loops on the hook.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) After joining Round 1, the pattern will be worked in a continuous, seamless round (no more joining). If you need to, you may use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

Round 1: FSC 175. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first FSC, being careful not to twist the foundation round. (175)

Round 2: CH1. SC in same ST and in each of the next 2 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. HbDC in each remaining ST. Do not join. (175)

Rounds 3-17: HbDC in each ST around. (175)

Round 18: HbDC in each of the first 166 STS; 9 STS remain unworked. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 3 STS. SL ST in each of the remaining 3 STS. This will smooth down your round so that we don’t end with a jagged edge. (175)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

September 22, 2016
Cosmos Scarf

During a recent trip to Hobby Lobby, in my current quest to branch out and add more colored yarns to my patterns, I came across Yarn Bee Dazzling yarn. Most of the color options didn’t do much for me, but a skein of “Morning Haze” practically jumped off the shelf and into my cart (you’ve had that happen before too, right?). It is soooo pretty! The steely purple, blue and gray color changes are long and subtle (just how I like them), and a continuous metallic thread gives the yarn such a pretty reflective finish. It is definitely on the lighter side of the #4 worsted category, comparable to the feel of Caron Simply Soft or Bernat Satin.

When I first started playing with it, I was afraid that my 3rd loop stitches would get completely lost in the busyness of the yarn. And while they certainly don’t jump off the scarf, one of the things I love about the finished product is the understated texture that is magnified when the light hits it in a certain way.

Of course, this pattern would be beautiful in a solid-colored yarn as well, and I may try that next.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

COSMOS SCARF

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 7″ tall x 60″ around

Hook: H (5.00mm)

Yarn: Approximately 440 yards of Yarn Bee Dazzling Yarn (<2 skeins) in “Morning Haze”. Dazzling is a lightweight #4 yarn, with a very similar feel to Caron Simply Soft. It is sold at Hobby Lobby stores.

Gauge: 8 rows of 8 HHDC = 2″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Abbreviations Used:
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
CH (chain)
HDC (half double crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in rows, then seamed at the end.
(3) To find the “3rd loop” (as mentioned in Round 4 and every four rows after that), insert your hook into the loop that sits just below the top loop that is closest to you. (Also called the Camel Stitch or RibHDC.)

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: CH 231.

Row 1: HHDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (230)

Row 2: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (230)

Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (230)

Row 4: CH1, turn. HHDC in third loops of each ST across. (230)

Row 5: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (230)

Row 6: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (230)

Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (230)

Row 8: CH1, turn. HHDC in third loops of each ST across. (230)

Rows 9-24: Repeat Rows 5-8. (230)

Row 25: CH1, turn. HHDC in each St across. (230)

Row 26: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (230)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use tail to sew short sides of scarf together. Weave in all ends.

September 16, 2016
Carlyle Slouch Hat

Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!

I love the idea of color-blocking. It’s such a modern twist on the classic stripes, and there aren’t nearly as many ends to weave in at the end. That’s a win for me!

For this hat pattern, I chose 3 neutral colors from Cascade Yarn’s Longwood line (which has soooo many color options). Longwood is one of my absolute all-time favorite yarns; I used it in the Herringbone Baby Hat, Easy Herringbone Earwarmer, Super Plush Infinity Scarf, and the Yenni and South Haven Slouches (the latter two use the sport weight version of the yarn). I honestly can’t get enough of its softness, drape and amazing stitch definition!

For the pom pom (which is optional and not explained in the pattern), I used my brand new Clover Pom-Pom Maker. I love that thing and wish I’d picked one up long ago. I’ve always made my pom poms the old fashioned way, wrapping yarn around a piece of cardboard and then giving it a significant “haircut”. But with the pom pom maker, the pom pom comes out almost perfect and only a little trimming is required – which means fuller, rounder pom poms.

And since you guys love pattern sets, I designed a cowl to match!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

CARLYLE SLOUCH HAT

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 9″ tall x 9.5″ wide (when laid flat)

Hook: I (5.50mm)

Yarn: Approximately 215 yards (not including optional pom pom) of Cascade Longwood, a #4 medium yarn. Broken down, you will need about 55 yards of Color A (not including optional pom pom), 65 yards of Color B, and 95 yards of Color C. I used colors “Oatmeal”, “Doeskin Heather” and “Walnut”, respectively.

Gauge: 7 rows of 8 HHDC = 2″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
SC2TOG (single crochet two together)
BLO (back loop only)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round until the band. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds and do not join unless instructed to do so.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: With I hook and COLOR A, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).

Round 1: 10 HHDC in MC. (10)

Round 2: 2 HHDC in each ST around. (20)

Round 3: 2 HHDC in each ST around. (40)

Round 4: 2 HHDC in each ST around. (80)

Rounds 5-8: HHDC in each ST around. (80)

Switch to COLOR B; fasten off COLOR A.

Rounds 9-16: HHDC in each ST around. (80)

Switch to COLOR C; fasten off COLOR B.

Rounds 17-23: HHDC in each ST around. (80)

Round 24: HHDC in each of the first 78 STS. SC in next ST. SL ST in last ST. (80)

Round 25: CH1. SC in same ST and in each of the next 7 STS. SC2TOG. (SC in each of the next 8 STS, SC2TOG) around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (72)

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Row 1: CH9. SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in remaining 7 CHS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (8, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat.

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (72 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to whip stitch the first and last rows together. Weave in all ends.

September 9, 2016
Carlyle Cowl

Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!

I knew as soon as I made the Carlyle Slouch that it needed a matching cowl. Besides the fact that my readers are always asking for patterns in sets, which I’m trying to do more of, I just love color-blocking and was so happy with how the hat came together that a cowl seemed like a natural next step!

For this pattern, I used the same 3 neutral colors from Cascade Yarn’s Longwood line (which has soooo many color options) as I did for the slouch hat. Longwood is one of my absolute all-time favorite yarns; I used it in the Herringbone Baby Hat, Easy Herringbone Earwarmer, Super Plush Infinity Scarf, and the Yenni and South Haven Slouches (the latter two use the sport weight version of the yarn). I honestly can’t get enough of its softness, drape and amazing stitch definition!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

CARLYLE COWL

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 12″ tall x 29″ around

Hook: I (5.50mm)

Yarn: Approximately 350 yards of Cascade Longwood, a #4 medium yarn. Broken down, you will need about 120 yards of Color A, 115 yards of Color B, and 115 yards of Color C. I used colors “Oatmeal”, “Doeskin Heather” and “Walnut”, respectively.

Gauge: 7 rows of 8 HHDC = 2″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
BLO (back loop only)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round after the band. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds and do not join unless instructed to do so.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

RIBBED BAND

To begin: With COLOR A, CH9.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (8)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Rows 3-116: Repeat Row 2. (8)

Fasten off leaving a 12″ tail. Use tail to sew the last and first rows together to form a circular shape. Weave in both ends. Reattach COLOR A at the seam and continue to instructions for “Body”.

BODY

We are now working in continuous rounds. Do not join or chain unless specifically instructed.

Round 1: CH1; HHDC in each ribbing row around. (116)

Rounds 2-7: HHDC in each ST around. (116)

Attach COLOR B; fasten off COLOR A.

Rounds 8-20: HHDC in each ST around. (116)

Attach COLOR C; fasten off COLOR B.

Rounds 21-32: HHDC in each ST around. (116)

Round 33: HHDC in each of the first 112 STS; 4 STS remain. SC in each of the next 2 STS. SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

September 9, 2016
Riverbed Slouch Hat
If you’ve been around my blog for a while (or if you take one look at my patterns page), you’ve probably noticed that I am drawn to single-color, neutral yarns. This is totally a preference thing, and I have nothing against those of you who like variegated yarn… it’s just not what I normally reach for.

But this season, I gave myself a challenge. My challenge was to find ways to use multi-colored (a.k.a. self-striping) yarns in some of my designs, while still keeping them modern-looking. So I went to one of my yarn stores and wandered the aisles until I found my first target: Lion Brand’s Tweed Stripes in “Caramel”. Of course I was drawn to the neutral hues, so I thought that might be a good compromise for me to begin with!

I wanted to keep the pattern really simple, because in my opinion, the busier the yarn, the simpler the stitches should be. Intricate stitches tend to get lost more easily in multi-colored yarns, and even more so in tweeds. Sometimes, less really is more. So, the body of this hat is just comprised of alternating SC and HDC rounds.

I also really wanted to balance out the busyness of all of the colors, so I chose a yarn from the Vanna’s Choice line, also by Lion Brand (color: “linen”) that matched the lightest color in the tweed yarn, and used that to make the band and the pom pom. Honestly, I would not have liked my result nearly as much if I’d done the entire thing in the tweed, but I think the linen color at the top and bottom of the hat really brings it all together and makes it work.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

RIVERBED SLOUCH HAT

Level: Easyish

Size:
One Size Fits Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 9.5” across at band, and is 10” tall.

Materials:
- K hook (6.50mm) and H hook (5.0mm)
- Yarn needle
- 120 yards of Yarn A: Lion Brand Tweed Stripes (sample shown in Caramel) and about 60 yards of Yarn B: Vanna’s Choice in a coordinating color (sample shown in Linen). Tweed Stripes is a Bulky #5 yarn, and Vanna’s Choice is a Worsted/Aran #4 yarn.
- Stitch marker (a bobby pin works great)
Gauge:
With larger hook, 6 rows of 7 HDC & SC (alternate each row) = 2″ square.

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle) – view my tutorial here
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:

(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) This hat is worked in a continuous spiral until the band. Do not join, chain or turn until instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
(3) The pom pom is optional.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using K (6.50mm) hook, with Yarn A, make a magic circle.

Round 1: 10 HDC in MC (10)

Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around (20)

Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around (40)

Note: At this point, it’s going to start looking wavy. You’re doing it right! The back of the hat has a faux-cinched look to it, and this is how we achieve it. Once you get to the body of the hat, it will start to straighten itself out naturally.

Round 4: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around (60)

Round 5: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 5 STS) around (70)

Round 6: SC around (70)

Round 7: HDC around (70)

Rounds 8-21: Repeat Rounds 6-7 (70)

Round 22: SC in first 69 STS (all but the last ST), SL ST in final stitch of the round (70)

Join Yarn B. Fasten off Yarn A. Switch to H (5.0mm) hook.

Round 23: CH1; SC around. Join with a SL ST to first SC. (70)

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat with SL STS as we go. Click here to view my video tutorial for this technique.

Row 1: CH9. SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in remaining 7 CHS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (8, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat.

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (70 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to whip stitch the first and last rows together. Weave in all ends.
August 31, 2016
Easy Herringbone Earwarmer

Ready for a quick project that doesn’t use lots of yarn, is easy enough for a confident beginner, and will make a great Christmas present?

The Easy Herringbone Earwarmer is a simple fall accessory, perfect for those autumn nights when the air is getting crisp. Throw your hair up in a messy bun or wear it down; either way, the Easy Herringbone Earwarmer will be a perfect addition. (And it goes great with my last pattern release, the Herringbone Buttoned Cowl!)

The Yarn

For this pattern, I used Longwood Sport from Cascade Yarns. Longwood Sport is a #3 light, 100% super wash extra fine merino wool. It is unbelievably soft and has perfect stitch definition. It’s my favorite yarn of anything I’ve ever tried; a little pricier than what you find in the big stores, but soooo worth it, especially for special projects!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

HERRINGBONE EARWARMER

Difficulty: Easy/Beginner

Finished Size: 19.5″ around (when buttoned) x 3.25″ wide

Hook: H (5.00mm)

Yarn: About 80 yards of Longwood Sport from Cascade Yarns. (Longwood Sport is a #3 light yarn.)

Gauge: 4 rows of 8 HHDC = 2″ (see “Special Stitch” below for explanation of HHDC)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 1″ button, sewing needle, and thread to match yarn color.

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
SC2TOG (single crochet two together)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
(3) To adjust for different sizes: All you need to do to make the headband smaller or larger is subtract from or add to your starting chain. There are 4 stitches in an inch, so if – for instance – you wanted a headband that was 17.5″ long instead of 19.5″ long, you would start with 8 fewer chains.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: CH66.

Row 1: HHDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each CH across. (65)

Rows 2-11: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (65)

We are now moving on to the first side section of the earwarmer.

Row 12: CH1, do not turn. SC in same ST, and working down the short end of the piece, SC in each row (from rows 2-11) across, for a total of 11 STS. (11)

Row 13: CH1, turn. SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 7 STS, SC2TOG. (9)

Rows 14-15: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (9)

Row 16: CH1, turn. SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 5 STS, SC2TOG. (7)

Rows 17-18: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (7)

Row 19: CH1, turn. SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 3 STS, SC2TOG. (5)

Row 20: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (5)

Fasten off yarn and weave in ends. Next, we’re going to add the other side section. Reattach yarn on opposite end of the piece, starting at the right side.

Row 21: CH1, SC in same ST. Working down the short end of the piece, SC in each row (from rows 2-11) across, for a total of 11 STS. (11)

Row 22: CH1, turn. SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 7 STS, SC2TOG. (9)

Rows 23-24: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (9)

Row 25: CH1, turn. SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 5 STS, SC2TOG. (7)

Row 26: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (7)

Row 27: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 2 STS. CH3, SK 3 STS. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. (4, + CH3)

Row 28: CH1, turn. SC2TOG. 3SC in the CH3 space from previous row. SC2TOG. (5)

Row 29: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (5)

Edging: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly around the entire piece, putting 3SC in each end corner, and 2SC in each slight corner where the HHDC rows meet the SC rows. (Use the diagram below for help with corners.) Join with a SL ST to the first SC.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Button: Sew your button to the end with no buttonhole.

August 26, 2016
Herringbone Buttoned Cowl

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!

It’s coming near to the end of August, which means we’ll soon enter into the month that brings my favorite season of all — Autumn! That means it’s time for cowls, scarves, hats, boot cuffs… do you know how happy this makes me? As much as I’ve had fun coming up with home decor patterns for the last few months, fall/winter accessories are my happy place.

To kick off the season of apple crisp and hayrides, I’ve designed the first accessory in the Little Monkeys Crochet Fall ’16 lineup, the Herringbone Buttoned Cowl. This is a snug little piece of neckwear that is perfect for layering. On a cool day, it looks great worn with a shirt and jeans. On a colder evening, tuck it under your winterwear and let the ribbed collar peek out – the bottom of the cowl is nice and flat, so it won’t add bulk under your coat!

–

The Yarn

For this pattern, I used the gorgeous, relatively-new Vanna’s Style (from Lion Brand), which is a DK (that’s a #3 weight) yarn. (Don’t confuse this with Vanna’s Choice, which is a #4 worsted yarn!) This yarn is stunning. It has the most beautiful stitch definition, which shows off the rows of the Herringbone stitch really nicely. It isn’t too shiny, but has just enough sheen to give it an elegant look. I haven’t found Vanna’s Style in any of my local stores yet, but you can always purchase it direct from Lion Brand.

And if you love matching sets, check out the Herringbone Slouch:

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

HERRINGBONE BUTTONED COWL

Difficulty: Easyish

Finished Size: 29″ wide x 12″ tall (when laid flat)

Hook: G (4.25mm)

Yarn: About 390-400 yards of Vanna’s Style DK Yarn by Lion Brand (that’s less than 2 skeins). The sample is shown in “Silver”.

Gauge: 16 rows of 17 HHDC = 4″ (see “Special Stitch” below for explanation of HHDC)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 2 buttons (3/4″ or 1″), sewing needle, and thread to match yarn color.

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
BLO (back loops only)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH2 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
(3) The pattern is divided into 3 parts: the Top Band, the Body, and the Side Band. The pattern as a whole is worked in one piece (there is no sewing at the end).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

Part 1: Top Band

To begin: CH9.

Top Band, Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (8)

Rows 2-120: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Row 121 (buttonhole): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (6 + CH2)

Row 122: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. 2SC in CH2 space. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Rows 123-124: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Part 2: Body

(Note that for ease of row counting, we are referring to the next row as “Row 1” instead of “Row 125”.)

Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly down the long edge of the piece, putting 1SC in each row. (124)

Row 2: CH1, turn. HHDC in each of the first 115 STS. 9 STS remain unworked (and will remain so for the remainder of Part 2). (115)

Rows 3-42: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (115)

Note: At this point, you should be on the same side of the cowl as the buttonhole we made back in Row 121 of the Top Band. If you’re on the opposite side you probably miscounted something, but it’s no big deal; just do one more row of HHDC to get yourself to where you need to be.

Row 43: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly up the side of the cowl, working toward the buttonhole, putting 1SC in each row until you reach the inner corner where the top band and the body meet. (41 SC)

Part 3: Side Band

(Remember back in Row 2 of the body, when we left 9 stitches unworked? We’re going to be working in those now.)

Side Band, Row 1 (highlighted in yellow in the photo below): SL ST to the closest unworked ST from Row 2 of the body section. CH1. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 unworked STS. SC in both loops of the final unworked ST. (8 SC)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Row 43 of the body. (8, + the 2 SL STS along Row 43)

Row 3: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

Rows 4-23: Repeat rows 2-3. (8)

Row 24 (buttonhole): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 3 STS. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Row 43 of the body. (6SC + CH2 buttonhole, + the 2 SL STS along Row 43)

Row 25: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. 2SC in CH2 space. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Rows 26-41: Repeat rows 2-3. (8)

Row 42: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in the final ST of Row 43 of the body. (8, + 1 SL ST along Row 43)

Depending on your placement of the first SCs from Row 43 of the body, your piece may look like it still needs one more row of ribbing to bring it even with the edge of the cowl. If so, go ahead and add that last row of ribbing by putting a SL ST into the CH1 space you created at the beginning of Row 43 of the body. CH1 and turn, and complete another row.

Edging: CH1, turn. SC evenly around the entire piece, putting 3SC in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the first SC.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Buttons: Lay your scarf flat, with the corner buttonhole at the top left corner. Your first button should be sewn 1 inch (both sides) from the bottom right corner; your second button should be sewn 6 inches from the right edge, 1 inch from the bottom edge (in line with the first button).

To Wear:

It can feel a bit tricky at first! Start by putting it around your neck with the buttonhole on your left, and the Top Band at the top. The button that is NOT in the corner is the button that will go through the top buttonhole. Once you’ve joined those together, you can slip the corner button through the second buttonhole, then tuck the extra fabric under the cowl. If you need a little extra help, watch this video of the Sparkly Buttoned Cowl (it’s the same style of cowl):

August 20, 2016
Herringbone Baby Hat

Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!

If you follow me on Facebook or subscribe to my e-newsletter, you probably already know my good news: we’re adding another little monkey to our family in December! Our baby boy will join us right around Christmastime, and we are beyond excited.

Believe it or not, I didn’t even know how to crochet when my other two boys (now 6 and 4) were born. Luckily, some of the wonderful women in our church made beautiful crocheted items for both of them when they were born. Now, it’s my turn!

Oh, and – side note – that’s my oldest monkey up there in the photo holding his future baby brother’s hat. How adorable is that!?

–

About the Yarn

For this hat pattern, I used Cascade Longwood, one of my all-time favorite #4 worsted weight yarns. (It also has a thinner version, Longwood Sport, which just so happens to be one of my all-time favorite #3 light yarns.) It is soooo soft, and works up soooo beautifully. I had a few balls of it from another pattern project, so I used what was left to work up baby hats in newborn – 1 year sizes. I’ve turned my business focus so much to adult patterns over the last couple of years that sitting down to make baby hats for a few days was refreshing (they work up so quick!) and Cascade Longwood makes it all that much more enjoyable.

–

About the Herringbone Stitch

This pattern uses a beautiful stitch called the Herringbone Half Double Crochet. I tend to get fixated on a certain stitch each season (last year was the SC+HDC combo), and this year, you’ll be seeing the Herringbone in a lot of my pattern releases. There are so many variations of this stitch that change its look drastically. In this pattern, we’ll be using the Herringbone HDC variation in a continuous, unturned spiral, resulting in a great texture that is a welcome change from the typical HDC hat.

–

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

HERRINGBONE BABY HAT

Difficulty: Easy

Hook: I (5.50mm)

Yarn: Cascade Longwood (a #4 medium yarn). Yardage will be listed under individual pattern sizes.

Gauge: Upon completion of Round 5 (in all sizes), your flat circle should measure 3.75″ across. For best results, adjust your hook size to match this gauge.

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
SC2TOG (single crochet two together)
BLO (back loop only)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round until the band. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds and do not join unless instructed to do so.
(3) Measurements and yarn totals are included on individual sizes and do not include the optional pom pom.
(4) Several people have noted that the pattern comes out too large; however, I stand by it. PLEASE CHECK YOUR GAUGE.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

NEWBORN

Measurements: 5″ tall x 6″ wide (when laid flat)
Yards of yarn used: 55

To begin: With I hook, make a magic circle; CH1.

Round 1: 9 HHDC in MC. (9)

Round 2: 2 HHDC in each ST around. (18)

Round 3: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in next ST) around. (27)

Round 4: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)

Round 5: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (45)

Round 6: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 8 STS) around. (50)

Rounds 7-11: HHDC in each ST around. (50)

Round 12: HHDC in each of the first 48 STS. SC in next ST. SL ST in final ST. (50)

If you are using a different color for the band of the hat, change colors now.

Round 13: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (50)

Switch to H hook.

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Row 1: CH5. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (4, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 4 STS. (4)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each of the next 4 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (4, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (50 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to whip stitch the first and last rows together. Weave in all ends.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

0-3 MONTHS

Measurements: 5.5″ tall x 6.5″ wide (when laid flat)
Yards of yarn used: 65

To begin: With I hook, make a magic circle; CH1.

Round 1: 9 HHDC in MC. (9)

Round 2: 2 HHDC in each ST around. (18)

Round 3: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in next ST) around. (27)

Round 4: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)

Round 5: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (45)

Round 6: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 4 STS) 8 times; 5 STS remain unworked. HHDC in each of the remaining STS. (53)

Rounds 7-14: HHDC in each ST around. (53)

Round 15: HHDC in each of the first 51 STS. SC in next ST. SL ST in final ST. (53)

If you are using a different color for the band of the hat, change colors now.

Round 16: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (53)

Switch to H hook.

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Row 1: CH5. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (4, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 4 STS. (4)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each of the next 4 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (4, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (53 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to whip stitch the first and last rows together. Weave in all ends.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

3-6 MONTHS

Measurements: 6.25″ tall x 7″ wide (when laid flat)
Yards of yarn used: 90

To begin: With I hook, make a magic circle; CH1.

Round 1: 9 HHDC in MC. (9)

Round 2: 2 HHDC in each ST around. (18)

Round 3: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in next ST) around. (27)

Round 4: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)

Round 5: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (45)

Round 6: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (54)

Round 7: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 26 STS) around. (56)

Rounds 8-16: HHDC in each ST around. (56)

Round 17: HHDC in each of the first 54 STS. SC in next ST. SL ST in final ST. (56)

If you are using a different color for the band of the hat, change colors now.

Round 18: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (56)

Switch to H hook.

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Row 1: CH6. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (5, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (5)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (5, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (56 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to whip stitch the first and last rows together. Weave in all ends.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

6-9 MONTHS

Measurements: 6.5″ tall x 7.5″ wide (when laid flat)
Yards of yarn used: 105

To begin: With I hook, make a magic circle; CH1.

Round 1: 9 HHDC in MC. (9)

Round 2: 2 HHDC in each ST around. (18)

Round 3: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in next ST) around. (27)

Round 4: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)

Round 5: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (45)

Round 6: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (54)

Round 7: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 8 STS) around. (60)

Rounds 8-17: HHDC in each ST around. (60)

Round 18: HHDC in each of the first 58 STS. SC in next ST. SL ST in final ST. (60)

If you are using a different color for the band of the hat, change colors now.

Round 19: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (60)

Switch to H hook.

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Row 1: CH6. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (5, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (5)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (5, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (60 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to whip stitch the first and last rows together. Weave in all ends.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

9-12 MONTHS

Measurements: 6.5″ tall x 7.75″ wide (when laid flat)
Yards of yarn used: 110

To begin: With I hook, make a magic circle; CH1.

Round 1: 9 HHDC in MC. (9)

Round 2: 2 HHDC in each ST around. (18)

Round 3: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in next ST) around. (27)

Round 4: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)

Round 5: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (45)

Round 6: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (54)

Round 7: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (63)

Round 8: 2 HHDC in next ST. HHDC in next 62 STS. (64)

Rounds 9-17: HHDC in each ST around. (64)

Round 18: HHDC in each of the first 62 STS. SC in next ST. SL ST in final ST. (64)

If you are using a different color for the band of the hat, change colors now.

Round 19: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (64)

Switch to H hook.

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Row 1: CH6. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (5, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (5)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (5, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (64 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to whip stitch the first and last rows together. Weave in all ends.

August 5, 2016