Thank you Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this pattern!
Summer is in full swing here, and we Michiganders work hard to enjoy every sunny day we possibly can since our mitten state is icy cold for half the year. So when the temperatures heat up, we trade in powdery white snow for sandy white beaches. I may be a little bias, but I think we have some of the most beautiful beaches around. (Here’s my proof!)
I promised you guys a full-sized beach bag a couple of months ago when I published this little mini beach bag gift card holder. Baby Henry has kept this mama’s hands full, so crocheting time has been really limited these days… but it’s finally here! And let me tell you what, this bag has given me grief. I’ve worked and reworked it to find the best possible construction to deliver you a pattern that is super easy and very durable. But, I think I’ve succeeded!
A confident beginner could make this bag, easily, and yet it still looks like something you could buy at the surf shop. It has a very classic nautical-style pattern, but with really fun color options thanks to the yarn (Lion Brand’s 24/7 Cotton). I am absolutely in love with it!
Oh, and did I mention… I made two sizes! One is perfect for you, and the other is perfect for your mini-me.
About the Yarn
24/7 Cotton by Lion Brand Yarn is a worsted-weight, mercerized 100% natural fiber yarn. It has ah-ma-zing color, sheen and stitch definition, and a range of 24 fun shades. There are so many beautiful color combos you could utilize with this beach bag… you might just have to make more than one!
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Don’t let the grommets scare you…
When I was trying to figure out the sturdiest way to add handles to this bag, I decided to try something I’d never used before – grommets! I took a chance and ordered some from Amazon, and I was so pleased with how easy they were to attach. Now, I am not a DIY girl, as much as I’d like to be. I’ve used a hammer maybe three times in my life. So take it from me… if I can do it, you can do it! And it will make such a huge difference in the sturdiness of your bag. Combined with the rope handles, the grommets take the weight of the bag on themselves, and since they don’t stretch like crocheted fabric does, your bag won’t stretch out the first time you put something in it. Click here to purchase the same grommet set I used. (You’ll get enough grommets for two bags, plus have 2 left over.)
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This pattern is also available as an ad-free, printable PDF! And if you love PDFs, you might want to check out my All Access Pass. It’s an awesome deal! (Or, scroll down for the free version!)
CLASSIC BEACH BAG
Difficulty: Easy
Finished Size: 20″ width x 14″ height x 6″ depth (adult size) / 15.5″ width x 12″ height x 6″ depth (child size)
Hook: E (3.5mm)
Yarn: Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in 3 different colors. 24/7 Cotton is a worsted-weight, mercerized yarn. Individual sizes and amounts are listed below.
Adult Size:
COLOR A (360 yards, or 2 skeins). Sample shown in “Rose.”
COLOR B (340 yards, or 2 skeins). Sample shown in “White.”
COLOR C (300 yards, or 2 skeins). Sample shown in “Navy.”
Child Size:
COLOR A (310 yards, or 2 skeins). Sample shown in “Aqua.”
COLOR B (220 yards, or 2 skeins). Sample shown in “White.”
COLOR C (180 yards, or 1 skein). Sample shown in “Silver.”
Gauge: 10 rows of 10 SC = 2″ square
You’ll also need:
Yarn needle
Scissors
3/8″ twisted rope for handles (two 36″ lengths for adult size, or two 30″ lengths for child size – I found mine at Joann Fabrics)
Size 4 (1/2″ diameter) grommet kit – one beach bag uses 4 grommets (I used this one – it came with 10 grommets and was super easy to use)
Hammer
Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of round does not count as a stitch.
(3) Both Adult and Child sizes are written out in full below. After that section, you’ll find instructions for shaping the bag and attaching the handles. These instructions are the same for both sizes.
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INSTRUCTIONS (ADULT SIZE)
To begin: With COLOR A, CH192. Join to first CH with a SL ST, being careful to not twist the chain. (Briana K has an awesome video tutorial here for how to do this perfect every time.) (192)
Rounds 1-24: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)
Rounds 25-28: Attach COLOR B; fasten off COLOR A. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)
Rounds 29-32: Attach COLOR C; drop COLOR B (do not fasten off). CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)
From this point until instructed otherwise, you will drop yarn at color changes and pick it back up again when needed. Do not fasten it off.
Rounds 33-36: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)
Rounds 37-40: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)
Rounds 41-44: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)
Rounds 45-48: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)
Rounds 49-52: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)
Rounds 53-56: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)
Rounds 57-60: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)
Rounds 61-64: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)
Rounds 65-68: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)
Rounds 69-72: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)
Rounds 73-76: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)
Rounds 77-80: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)
Rounds 81-84: Switch to COLOR B; fasten off COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)
Rounds 85-89: Switch to COLOR A; fasten off COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)
Round 90: CH1. SC in each of the first 30 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 30 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 60 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 30 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 30 STS. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (180 SC + 4 CH3 holes)
Round 91: CH1. SC in each ST around, putting 3SC in each CH3 space from previous round. (192)
Rounds 92-94: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)
Round 95: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)
Fasten off; weave in all ends.
INSTRUCTIONS (CHILD SIZE)
To begin: With COLOR A, CH156. Join to first CH with a SL ST, being careful to not twist the chain. (Briana K has an awesome video tutorial here for how to do this perfect every time.) (156)
Rounds 1-24: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)
Rounds 25-28: Attach COLOR B; fasten off COLOR A. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)
Rounds 29-32: Attach COLOR C; drop COLOR B (do not fasten off). CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)
From this point until instructed otherwise, you will drop yarn at color changes and pick it back up again when needed. Do not fasten it off.
Rounds 33-36: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)
Rounds 37-40: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)
Rounds 41-44: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)
Rounds 45-48: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)
Rounds 49-52: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)
Rounds 53-56: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)
Rounds 57-60: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)
Rounds 61-64: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)
Rounds 65-68: Switch to COLOR B; fasten off COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)
Rounds 69-73: Switch to COLOR A; fasten off COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)
Round 74: CH1. SC in each of the first 24 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 24 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 48 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 24 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 24 STS. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (144 SC + 4 CH3 holes)
Round 75: CH1. SC in each ST around, putting 3SC in each CH3 space from previous round. (156)
Rounds 76-78: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)
Round 79: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)
Fasten off; weave in all ends.
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ATTACHING GROMMETS (SAME INSTRUCTIONS FOR BOTH BAG SIZES)
Open your grommet kit (I used this one) and retrieve the following items:
Turn your bag inside out, and follow the instructions on your grommet kit to add grommets to each of the four holes at the top of the bag. I’ve got 2 important tips for you here…
Important tip #1: If I had to do it again, I would not have rested the base on the lower layer of fabric as shown in the photo below; beating it with a hammer caused a slight discoloration in the fabric. Not cool. #lessonlearned)
Important tip #2: When I was reading the reviews for the grommet set before I purchased it, I learned that it’s best to do your hammering on a very hard surface (like your cement garage floor). This worked great for me.
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SEWING THE BOTTOM (SAME INSTRUCTIONS FOR BOTH BAG SIZES)
Keeping the bag inside out, lay it flat, lining up the grommets. Use COLOR A (a length about 4x the width of the bag) to sew the bottom of the bag closed, stitch by stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends.
With the bag still inside out, turn it upside down and position the bottom so that one end lays out in a triangular shape, with the seam centered. Use a ruler and a piece of tape to measure and mark a 5″ line across the corner of the base. Sew a seam across the line (through both layers) with COLOR A. Repeat on the opposite side. This will make the inside of the bag roomy.
Turn bag right-side out. Here’s what it should look like on the inside:
And here’s what it should look like on the bottom:
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ADDING ROPE HANDLES (SAME INSTRUCTIONS FOR BOTH BAG SIZES)
Take your first rope handle and insert it through one of the grommets, going from the inside of the bag to the outside. Tie a knot near the bottom of the rope on the outside of the bag and pull it tight (you can use your grommet to help by gently but firmly pulling the rope from the inside of the bag, which will pull the knot against the grommet and tighten it up). Then, use good scissors to cut the excess rope about 1/2″ below the knot.
If your rope looks like mine, it will have a couple strands of thread wrapped tightly around each twist. These are pretty easy to locate by gently pulling on the tips of the yarn. When you find them, pull them away from the yarn right up to the knot. Then use scissors to cut them off at that point. Give the exposed thread a little ruffle with your fingers; this will give your handles that classic weathered tassel look.
Repeat these instructions with the other end of the same rope (attaching it through the other grommet on the same side of the bag) to complete your first handle. Then, do everything again for the 2nd handle on the other side. Note that you’ll want both handles to be the same length, so be sure to compare them when you’re about to tie your final knot to ensure that the handle sizes match.
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That’s it – you’re done! Grab your favorite sunglasses and a beach towel and head to your favorite sandy spot in style. And don’t be surprised if someone asks you where you got your gorgeous beach bag!
I just finished my last row and was reading about the grommets. Your tip says to not have the grommet lean against the bottom fabric bc it left a stain. What is the alternative?
Thank you – I really enjoyed this pattern 😊
I’m working through this pattern and do not see where the holes are worked into it?? How did you get the grommets in without holes??
I have not made this bag yet but it looks like the holes are in row 90 of the adult size and row 74 of the child size 🙂
I’ve seen this project on Ravelry with a fabric liner. Do you have a pattern for the liner? Excited to get started on this beautiful bag!
How much length of rope did you use to make the handles?
On my last bag similar to this, I used 3 feet on each strap then cut down to where I wanted it.
Is there a SC right before the slip stitch? It seems to add an extra stitch each time around.
Why is my seam diagonal? How do I correct this?
I have this issue also. After sl st and ch 1, I think you have to sc in same st.
I would like to know that also about the slip stitch ch1 at beginning each row!! Get an extra stitch end of row. Is there a video?
I have done this but the seam still looks like it’s going diagonally! HELP also what about triangle on bottom? Do you tack down the point of it? Are the grommets suppose to be loose before rope is put in?
Look up invisible join in the round – i just learned this and started the bag over so that seam isn’t obvious
I worried about this, and had accidentally added a bunch of stitches while doing this, but realized that as per the pattern, if I bury the seam in the section that gets folded over at the bottom of the bag, it won’t matter what the first few rows that will be in that triangle will look like. Ordinarily I would take it out but all the added stitches and corrections to it are within a few rows right where they’ll be obscured by that seam, heh.
I worked in rounds, so my first row I did a slip stitch, and skipped over it the next row and just continued working in rounds instead of in rows. I found it made the finished product look a lot better without diagonal seams.
I love this bag! I’m purchasing materials to make it! Question for everyone, how long did it take you to make this bag ??
I chained the 156 stitches for the child size as the pattern calls for but it’s turning out to be 44 inches around. Is it supposed to be this large for a child
Is there a video tutorial that goes with this bag?
I’d like to know the same thing
I am on row five and I checked and my rows are twisted do I have to start over or is there a trick to fix ? when I made my chain I was straight but it must of twisted on my sc. Please help I have started over four times
Thank you so much for the pattern. I really love it.
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I’m getting 9 stitches in 2″ and my 10 rows are a little past 2″. Will this impact the size of the bag?
Why is my seam diagonal? Can i do somethingto get a straight seam.
Loving my bag so far- have two quick questions.
I seem to adding a stitch to each row- no biggie unless there 92 rows! ????
I am think, of course, it is when I slip stirch to the best row. Do you have a pic of which stitch, right before and right after the slip stitch, the I should be putting a SC? I think I am adding an extra before or after somehow.
Next question, do I need to “set” the colors since these are a cotton yarn? If so, how is that done?
Thanks for a great pattern and your coaching
Cindy
I have figured out the extra stitch issue. Now just wondering about setting the colors so they don’t bleed if the bag gets wet.
Thanks
Cindy, I think I’m adding an extra stitch. Ivectajen our 4 th row twice. What did you do to resolve your issue
Hi Cindy, glad you figured out the extra stitch issue. I am still having problems figuring it out. Would you mind letting me in on how your fixed it please?
Would it be too stiff or bulky if at the time of changing colors that you could keep the last color attached and crochet OVER the last color using the new color and so on?
I think in the case of a beach bag, stiffer or bulkier wouldn’t be a bad thing, anyway. 🙂