Comfy Squares Buttoned Cowl

I love buttoned cowls! I already have 3 on the blog (the Sparkly, the Apple Crisp and the Herringbone Buttoned Cowls), but I’ve been wanting to do a “comfy squares” version for a while. It seemed like a simple project for easing back into pattern designing after my little newborn-snuggles-filled hiatus, so on Henry’s first trip with me to the yarn store, we picked up a few skeins of Lion Brand’s Wool-Ease.

(Henry was a little overwhelmed by all the choices.)

I haven’t used this yarn much at all, but now that I’m reminded of what a nice drape it has, I’m definitely going to be using it more often!

I also picked up these cute wooden buttons. They’re 1-1/8″, and you’ll need two of them in your favorite style.

 

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COMFY SQUARES BUTTONED COWL

Difficulty: Easyish

Finished Size: 32″ wide x 13.5″ tall (when laid flat)

Hook:  H (5.0mm)

Yarn: About 470 yards of Wool-Ease yarn by Lion Brand (that’s less than 3 skeins). Wool-Ease is a #4 worsted yarn, and the sample is shown in “Natural Heather”.

Gauge: The first 8 rows of the pattern (the ribbing) should measure 2.25″ square.

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 2 buttons (1 1/8″), sewing needle, and thread to match yarn color.

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
BLO (back loops only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
(3) The pattern is divided into 3 parts: the Top Band, the Body, and the Side Band. The pattern as a whole is worked in one piece (there is no sewing at the end).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: CH9.

Top Band, Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (8)

Rows 2-121: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Row 122 (buttonhole): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (6 + CH2)

Row 123: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. 2SC in CH2 space. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Rows 124-125: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Part 2: Body
(Note that for ease of row counting, we are referring to the next row as “Row 1” instead of “Row 126”.)

Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly down the long edge of the piece, putting 1SC in each row. (125)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 57 times; 9 STS remain unworked (and will remain so for the remainder of Part 2). (116)

Rows 3-44: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (116)

Note: At this point, you should be on the same side of the cowl as the buttonhole we made back in Row 122 of the Top Band. If you’re on the opposite side you probably miscounted something, but it’s no big deal; just do one more row to get yourself to where you need to be.

Row 45: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly up the side of the cowl, working toward the buttonhole, putting 1SC in each row until you reach the inner corner where the top band and the body meet. (43 SC)

Part 3: Side Band
(Remember back in Row 2 of the body, when we left 9 stitches unworked? We’re going to be working in those now.)

Side Band, Row 1 (highlighted in yellow in the photo below): SL ST to the closest unworked ST from Row 2 of the body section. CH1. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 unworked STS. SC in both loops of the final unworked ST. (8 SC)

 

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Row 45 of the body. (8, + the 2 SL STS along Row 45)

Row 3: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

Rows 4-21: Repeat rows 2-3. (8)

Row 22 (buttonhole): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 3 STS. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Row 45 of the body. (6SC + CH2 buttonhole, + the 2 SL STS along Row 45)

Row 23: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. 2SC in CH2 space. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Rows 24-43: Repeat rows 2-3. (8)

Row 44: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in the final ST of Row 45 of the body. (8, + 1 SL ST along Row 45)

Edging: CH1, turn. SC evenly around the entire piece, putting 3SC in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the first SC.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

 

Buttons: Lay your cowl flat, with the corner buttonhole at the top left corner. Your first button should be sewn 1.25″ from the bottom edge and 1.25″ from the right edge; your second button should be sewn in line with the first button, 1.25″ from the bottom edge and 7″ from the right edge.

To Wear:

It can feel a bit tricky at first! Start by putting it around your neck with the buttonhole on your left, and the Top Band at the top. The button that is NOT in the corner is the button that will go through the top buttonhole. Once you’ve joined those together, you can slip the corner button through the second buttonhole, then tuck the extra fabric under the cowl. If you need a little extra help, watch this video of the Sparkly Buttoned Cowl (it’s the same style of cowl):