I love buttoned cowls! I already have 3 on the blog (the Sparkly, the Apple Crisp and the Herringbone Buttoned Cowls), but I’ve been wanting to do a “comfy squares” version for a while. It seemed like a simple project for easing back into pattern designing after my little newborn-snuggles-filled hiatus, so on Henry’s first trip with me to the yarn store, we picked up a few skeins of Lion Brand’s Wool-Ease.
(Henry was a little overwhelmed by all the choices.)
I haven’t used this yarn much at all, but now that I’m reminded of what a nice drape it has, I’m definitely going to be using it more often!
I also picked up these cute wooden buttons. They’re 1-1/8″, and you’ll need two of them in your favorite style.
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COMFY SQUARES BUTTONED COWL
Difficulty: Easyish
Finished Size: 32″ wide x 13.5″ tall (when laid flat)
Hook: H (5.0mm)
Yarn: About 470 yards of Wool-Ease yarn by Lion Brand (that’s less than 3 skeins). Wool-Ease is a #4 worsted yarn, and the sample is shown in “Natural Heather”.
Gauge: The first 8 rows of the pattern (the ribbing) should measure 2.25″ square.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 2 buttons (1 1/8″), sewing needle, and thread to match yarn color.
Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
BLO (back loops only)
Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
(3) The pattern is divided into 3 parts: the Top Band, the Body, and the Side Band. The pattern as a whole is worked in one piece (there is no sewing at the end).
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
THE PATTERN
Part 1: Top Band
To begin: CH9.
Top Band, Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (8)
Rows 2-121: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)
Row 122 (buttonhole): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (6 + CH2)
Row 123: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. 2SC in CH2 space. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (8)
Rows 124-125: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)
Part 2: Body
(Note that for ease of row counting, we are referring to the next row as “Row 1” instead of “Row 126”.)
Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly down the long edge of the piece, putting 1SC in each row. (125)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 57 times; 9 STS remain unworked (and will remain so for the remainder of Part 2). (116)
Rows 3-44: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (116)
Note: At this point, you should be on the same side of the cowl as the buttonhole we made back in Row 122 of the Top Band. If you’re on the opposite side you probably miscounted something, but it’s no big deal; just do one more row to get yourself to where you need to be.
Row 45: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly up the side of the cowl, working toward the buttonhole, putting 1SC in each row until you reach the inner corner where the top band and the body meet. (43 SC)
Part 3: Side Band
(Remember back in Row 2 of the body, when we left 9 stitches unworked? We’re going to be working in those now.)
Side Band, Row 1 (highlighted in yellow in the photo below): SL ST to the closest unworked ST from Row 2 of the body section. CH1. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 unworked STS. SC in both loops of the final unworked ST. (8 SC)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Row 45 of the body. (8, + the 2 SL STS along Row 45)
Row 3: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)
Rows 4-21: Repeat rows 2-3. (8)
Row 22 (buttonhole): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 3 STS. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Row 45 of the body. (6SC + CH2 buttonhole, + the 2 SL STS along Row 45)
Row 23: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. 2SC in CH2 space. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (8)
Rows 24-43: Repeat rows 2-3. (8)
Row 44: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in the final ST of Row 45 of the body. (8, + 1 SL ST along Row 45)
Edging: CH1, turn. SC evenly around the entire piece, putting 3SC in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the first SC.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Buttons: Lay your cowl flat, with the corner buttonhole at the top left corner. Your first button should be sewn 1.25″ from the bottom edge and 1.25″ from the right edge; your second button should be sewn in line with the first button, 1.25″ from the bottom edge and 7″ from the right edge.
To Wear:
It can feel a bit tricky at first! Start by putting it around your neck with the buttonhole on your left, and the Top Band at the top. The button that is NOT in the corner is the button that will go through the top buttonhole. Once you’ve joined those together, you can slip the corner button through the second buttonhole, then tuck the extra fabric under the cowl. If you need a little extra help, watch this video of the Sparkly Buttoned Cowl (it’s the same style of cowl):
I’m stuck in part two because I don’t understand how I can keep skipping stitches and only end up with 9 unworked in…. I realize that when working the body I won’t be going to the edge because I will need part of that for the 3rd part.
But by skipping a stitch and then sc&hdc in the next stitch and then skipping again to sc&hdc and to continue on like that would have more than 9 stitches unused? Unless I’m just crazy and cannot for the life of me process this.
You have 125 stitches to work in (as created by Row 1). Row 2 tells you to do the skip + sc/hdc a total of 58 times, and each of those covers two stitches (1 for the skip, and 1 for the sc/hdc combo). 58 x 2 = 116. 125 total stitches – 116 worked stitches = 9 unworked stitches. Does that help?
I’m working on part 1… I’m on row 45-ish and my work is twisting (looking like a helix) is this okay? I’m guessing it will straighten out with the next part (the body). Thanks!
Yes, you’ll be fine! 🙂
Ciao! Ok, I tried with a smaller needle but it didn’t work, so I went back with my original. Because my dimensions are completely different from yours, I’m not sure where to put the second button hole. Could I do without it like the cowl in the video? If not, how many inches apart are your button holes from each other?
Thanks a bunch.
If you followed the pattern counts, you wouldn’t need to adjust anything; the buttonhole will still end up where it needs to be. Your whole cowl will just be scaled a bit larger.
If you didn’t follow the pattern counts, you can take a look at the diagram under the “buttons” section to help you eyeball where to place the hole. It is halfway between the bottom edge of the top ribbing and the bottom edge of the cowl.
Hello again. I’m so sorry to always bother you. Could you give me any advice on how to count stitches because I honestly don’t understand and I’ve watched YouTube videos. I’m obviously doing something wrong because the cowl was extremely too long but I counted 122 rows (part 1) before the button hole. I’ve watched a YouTube tutorial where it says to count the raised part of the SC and you count by twos. I’m sersious just going to take a ruler and measure 32″ and forget counting at this point. From the photo is looks like your part 1 of the cowl spans diagonally shoulder to chest, is that about right? I seriously am just going to start from zero again at the point.
Thanks. Sorry to bother you.
Hi Erin, do you have a ruler handy? Did you do the gauge check (measure the first 8 rows of the ribbing to see if it was 2.25″)?
Ok I measured the gauge. I’m half an inch over. Would that cause it to be so oversized? How do I fix that? Tighten my stitch as I crochet?
It’s simply because everyone’s tension is different. I have a tight tension; yours is looser. If you want to be able to follow the pattern exactly, your best bet is to go down a hook size or two and try again. 🙂
Will do! Thanks!!
Hello! I was going to attempt to make this scarf, so today I bought some yarn but the yarn I bought requires a 4 mm hook, so I believe it is much thinner than the yarn you used. Do you think this will be a problem? Should I return it for a thicker yarn? Sorry I don’t see a number for the yarn, I live in Italy and they apparently don’t number their yarn! Thanks for your help in advance! Love your patterns! You are so talented!
Hi Erin! I would probably get a thicker yarn. Look for something that recommends a 5.0 or 5.5mm hook. Otherwise it may turn out too small. 🙂
Ok thanks so much! I think that is the best choice as well! Thank you!!!
Hello again. Now I have to correct yarn, but unfortunately, I have a severe issue with counting stitches. I’ve undone what I have made about 6 times now. I think at the every beginning I must have added one more ST than I should have, because for part 2 row 1 I count 126 SC, which I then do not know how to rectify in part 2 row 2. If I do 57 stitches then I have 10 chains, if I do 58 or 59 (Don’t know if I should count the first) —I’m a bit confused if you can tell- stitches then I have 8 ST remaining. Either way I do it, it comes out wrong in row 3, I’m either over or under stitches and I don’t know what to do. 🙁 I don’t know if I should skip 2 ST at the start instead of just one or if that will help or just make it worse. Either way I think if correctly counted I have 126 stitches, and presently 8 spare chains in row 2. I hope this makes sense. I shall await your rescue. Thanks!
Sorry for all the posts. Ok I think I solved my problem. So instead of 125 SC I did 127, and instead of 57 SC+HDC I do 59 which leaves me with 8 unused chains. Now it’s even, but will I have a problem in the future? (Crossing my fingers that you will say no!)
Hi Erin! If I understand what you’re saying, then yes, I think you should be ok 🙂
I just finished making this and I just love everything about it!! I loved crocheting it…what a fun pattern and I love the texture! I used Deborah Norville Everday yarn in cream…what a nice soft yarn! I did decide to leave off the edging at the end…I got about halfway with it and didn’t really like the way it was looking and liked it better without it. Now I’m ready to start your Apple Crisp cowl in a gray color. Thanks for sharing your wonderful patterns!
Hi, I just realized the tutorial is for a different cowl, sorry for the confusion?
As mentioned the video is for a different cowl of a similar style. Where I put the button through the stitches in the video, we have an actual button hole to use in this pattern. (The cowl in the video doesn’t have any side ribbing.
Hi, I just realized the tutorial is for a different cowl, sorry for the confusion?
I just finished your Cowl, looks lovely and I’ve watched the video, sorry but I can’t understand how it shows the button holes,on the side ribbing, but when you show how to wear it you place the 2nd botton on the body?? Sorry if this does not make sense ?, thanks for any help.
Thanks for the pattern! When I get to the body and I am doing this part:
Rows 3-44: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (116)
Am I going into the stitch or the stitch where the hole is? Hope that makes sense!!
Thank you!
Into the stitch. 🙂
Thank you!! 😉
I am teaching myself to crochet and I do believe I can make this pattern. I love your work. Thank you so much for sharing this patten with us.
I thought i was following the pattern but by the time i finished the Row 44 on the side band it did not go all the way up to match the Body part so to form a complete rectangle. Can you tell me if this is how it is suppose to be.
You’re welcome to email me a photo (littlemonkeyscrochet @ gmail . com) so I can better assist you.
Hello. Love this pattern. It was easy to follow and worked up quickly. The problem is my final row around the whole thing made my long ribbing edge wavy! I counted and double, triple counted and my long side are even. I did block it after that and that helped some. My concern is it’s intended as a gift and the recipient might not block it even if I say lay it flat to dry. Did I goof on something or is that just how it works up and blocking is necessary?
Thanks for the great pattern and you baby is adorable!
I didn’t need to block mine and that wasn’t an issue. Maybe use a smaller hook on that side, or leave the edging off altogether if it’s waving that bad.
Thanks! The smaller hook worked like a charm. Now why didn’t I think of that? ?
Thank you for this lovely pattern. I just finished it yesterday. Very happy with it. Pattern was easy to follow and the little tutorial about how to wear it saved me!! Now off to try some other colors. Congrats on your third!
I paid $1.99 for this pattern on PayPal….but am having trouble printing it. HELP please.
I simply love all of your patterns. Henry is such an adorable baby.
Henry is gonna be a heart breaker later in life.
Your baby is adorable. I watch a little guy born on the same day as your little one. I love babies wish they would stay little longer At almost 2 mos. seems like he’s grown so much. Love your patterns. Would love to see stuff for baby boys. Enjoy you new little guy and thank you for all you do for us crocheters
What a lovely cowl, cant wait too start, it is just we in South Africa don’t get the Lion brand wool here
Thank you! You can definitely use a substitute 🙂