Ready for a quick project that doesn’t use lots of yarn, is easy enough for a confident beginner, and will make a great Christmas present?
The Easy Herringbone Earwarmer is a simple fall accessory, perfect for those autumn nights when the air is getting crisp. Throw your hair up in a messy bun or wear it down; either way, the Easy Herringbone Earwarmer will be a perfect addition. (And it goes great with my last pattern release, the Herringbone Buttoned Cowl!)
For this pattern, I used Longwood Sport from Cascade Yarns. Longwood Sport is a #3 light, 100% super wash extra fine merino wool. It is unbelievably soft and has perfect stitch definition. It’s my favorite yarn of anything I’ve ever tried; a little pricier than what you find in the big stores, but soooo worth it, especially for special projects!
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Finished Size: 19.5″ around (when buttoned) x 3.25″ wide
Hook: H (5.00mm)
Yarn: About 80 yards of Longwood Sport from Cascade Yarns. (Longwood Sport is a #3 light yarn.)
Gauge: 4 rows of 8 HHDC = 2″ (see “Special Stitch” below for explanation of HHDC)
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 1″ button, sewing needle, and thread to match yarn color.
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
SC2TOG (single crochet two together)
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:
HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.
(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
(3) To adjust for different sizes: All you need to do to make the headband smaller or larger is subtract from or add to your starting chain. There are 4 stitches in an inch, so if – for instance – you wanted a headband that was 17.5″ long instead of 19.5″ long, you would start with 8 fewer chains.
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Row 1: HHDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each CH across. (65)
Rows 2-11: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (65)
We are now moving on to the first side section of the earwarmer.
Row 12: CH1, do not turn. SC in same ST, and working down the short end of the piece, SC in each row (from rows 2-11) across, for a total of 11 STS. (11)
Row 13: CH1, turn. SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 7 STS, SC2TOG. (9)
Rows 14-15: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (9)
Row 16: CH1, turn. SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 5 STS, SC2TOG. (7)
Rows 17-18: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (7)
Row 19: CH1, turn. SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 3 STS, SC2TOG. (5)
Row 20: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (5)
Fasten off yarn and weave in ends. Next, we’re going to add the other side section. Reattach yarn on opposite end of the piece, starting at the right side.
Row 21: CH1, SC in same ST. Working down the short end of the piece, SC in each row (from rows 2-11) across, for a total of 11 STS. (11)
Row 22: CH1, turn. SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 7 STS, SC2TOG. (9)
Rows 23-24: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (9)
Row 25: CH1, turn. SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 5 STS, SC2TOG. (7)
Row 26: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (7)
Row 27: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 2 STS. CH3, SK 3 STS. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. (4, + CH3)
Row 28: CH1, turn. SC2TOG. 3SC in the CH3 space from previous row. SC2TOG. (5)
Row 29: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (5)
Edging: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly around the entire piece, putting 3SC in each end corner, and 2SC in each slight corner where the HHDC rows meet the SC rows. (Use the diagram below for help with corners.) Join with a SL ST to the first SC.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Button: Sew your button to the end with no buttonhole.