It’s hard to believe I’m ready to release my first garment pattern, because this has been a looooong process!
I can’t even tell you how many times over the last year that I’ve started designing a garment and ended up scrapping the whole thing. I can create hats and scarves in my sleep, but garment design is a whole new beast!
Part of the reason it was such a process is because I was determined to design it the right way — with size inclusivity. This cardigan pattern includes 9 sizes, from XS through 5XL, because we all deserve to wear our beautiful creations! But… it meant lots of learning and lots of calculations. Now that I’ve done it, I can say that I definitely did learn a lot and my next design should be much easier on my brain. (FYI, my model is 5’1 and is wearing XS, her usual clothing size.)
ABOUT THE YARN
The beautiful heathered yarn in my sample is Yarn Bee Soft & Sleek DK (order it through my affiliate link here). I strongly recommend it, BUT, please read on for my important notes about it.
It’s just as soft as it is pretty, and I absolutely loved working with it. The skeins are generous at 478 yards, and while I can’t say I’ve really tested it out, it is a low-pill yarn. I used Mink (color A), Cloud Control (color B), and Pink Lemonade (color C) in my sample cardigan.
The only strange thing about this particular yarn is that while it’s classified as a #3 weight, it feels a whole lot more like a #1. That’s quite a difference, right!? I did some investigating online, and most of the reviews I found agreed. I also compared its yards-to-grams ratio with other #1, #2 and #3 yarns, and it most definitely fit in the #1 category. I have no explanation for this, but you’ll need to keep it in mind if you decide to use a substitute; you’ll want to start with a #1, or thin #2, yarn. And it should go without saying, but please do a gauge check.
Update: I asked in my Facebook group what substitute yarns people were using successfully with this pattern, and here’s a list! Please note that crocheters have been able to meet the pattern gauge with each of these yarns, but they may have used a slightly smaller or larger hook size to do so. It’s all part of the gauging process!
- Loops & Threads Woolike (Michael’s)
- Cotton Kings (Hobbii)
- Dotted Line (Lion Brand)
- It’s A Wrap Rainbow (Red Heart)
- Yarn Bee Glint of Glam (Hobby Lobby)
- Amazing Lace (Lion Brand)
- Yarn Bee Pigment (Hobby Lobby)
VIDEO TUTORIAL
I’ve put together a step-by-step video tutorial for you visual learners! This video is meant to help you as you work from the written pattern and goes over each technique that you’ll need to complete your cardigan, from the linen stitch to seaming.
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern is also available as an ad-free, printable PDF! You can purchase the individual pattern, or if you love PDFs, you might want to check out my All Access Pass. It’s an awesome deal! (Or, scroll down for the free version!)
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Eva Cardigan
Language
American Standard
Difficulty
Easy
Finished Sizes
Pattern is written for sizes XS – 5XL (see chart for specific measurements). Cardigan has a loose fit, with 6-8″ positive ease.
Hook
G (4.5mm) or whichever hook is needed to meet gauge. You may also want to have a smaller hook handy (see Note #2). My favorite hooks are Clover Amour (affiliate link).
Yarn
I used Yarn Bee Soft & Sleek DK (affiliate link), a soft, heathered yarn from Hobby Lobby that is categorized as a #3 weight, but please note that it feels more like a fingering weight (#1!). Most of the online reviews I’ve read agree with this assessment, and its yardage-to-grams ratio would suggest that it is a fingering weight. It was a great yarn to work with, but if you don’t have access to it, I strongly suggest working up a gauge swatch in a fingering or light sport yarn as #3 weights will be too thick.
The table below will tell you how much yarn you will need for your size. Please note that the number of skeins required is specific to Yarn Bee Soft & Sleek DK, and if you use a different yarn, you’ll need to go by yardage when deciding how much to purchase.
Gauge
25 STS x 27 rows = 4″ square (worked in the linen stitch). To get an accurate gauge, which is especially important in a garment pattern, you should work up a swatch that is larger than 4″ and measure within it, away from the edges. (Tip: Work up one of the pockets as your gauge swatch. That way, you’ll already have one pocket ready to go!)
You’ll also need
Yarn needle
Terms and Abbreviations
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
SC2TOG (single crochet 2 together; see Special Stitch)
BLO (back loop only)
Special Stitch
SC2TOG (single crochet 2 together): In this pattern, SC2TOGs will be worked over two CH1 spaces. Complete them as follows: Insert hook in next CH1 space, yarn over and pull up loop (2 loops on hook); insert hook in next CH1 space, yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook); yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook. This will decrease your stitch count by 2 (1 SC and 1 CH1 space).
Notes
- A video tutorial is available up in the post, or by clicking here.
- When I work the linen stitch (the stitch used throughout this pattern), my fabric tends to pull in a bit after the first couple of rows. To avoid this, I use a smaller (3.5mm) hook for the initial chain and the first row, before switching to my regular hook. This is not noted in the pattern, but you might find it helpful if your first couple of rows are coming out wider. If you choose to stick with the regular hook, be sure to keep a tight tension in those first couple of rows.
- Each row will have an equal number of stitches and CH1 spaces. The sum of these is reflected in the stitch counts. For example, a stitch count of 78 means that row has 39 stitches + 39 CH1 spaces.
- Pattern is written for sizes Xs-5XL, with counts for sizes S-5XL written in parentheses. Example: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) It might help to highlight the correct counts for your size before you begin.
- To avoid redundancy, pattern has been written out as “regular rows” and “decrease rows”, with applicable stitch counts included for each row. Use the following instructions for each:
Regular Row: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), turn. SC in first CH1 space. (CH1, SC in next CH1 space) across.
Decrease Row: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), turn. SC2TOG over first 2 CH1 spaces. (CH1, SC in next CH1 space) across.
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Back Panel (make 1)
For this panel, you’ll crochet 7 color blocks of 28 (sizes XS-L) or 29 (sizes XL-5XL) rows per block. There are no increases or decreases.
To begin: With COLOR A, CH116 (128,140,152,164,178,190,202,214).
Row 1: SC in 4th CH from hook (counts as first CH1 space and first SC). (CH1, SK1, SC in next) across.
Stitch count (will remain the same for each row): 114 (126,138,150,162,176,188,200,212)
Rows 2-28 (XS-L) OR 2-29 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR B.
Rows 29-56 (XS-L) OR 30-58 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR C.
Rows 57-84 (XS-L) OR 59-87 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR A.
Rows 85-112 (XS-L) OR 88-116 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR B.
Rows 113-140 (XS-L) OR 117-145 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR C.
Rows 141-168 (XS-L) OR 146-174 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR A.
Rows 169-196 (XS-L) OR 175-203 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
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Front Panels (make 2)
For these panels, you’ll crochet 7 color blocks of 28 (sizes XS-L) or 29 (sizes XL-5XL) rows per block. There are no increases or decreases.
To begin: With COLOR A, CH44 (50,56,62,68,74,80,88,94).
Row 1: SC in 4th CH from hook (counts as first CH1 space and first SC). (CH1, SK1, SC in next) across.
Stitch count (will remain the same for each row): 42 (48,54,60,66,72,78,86,92)
Rows 2-28 (XS-L) OR 2-29 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR B.
Rows 29-56 (XS-L) OR 30-58 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR C.
Rows 57-84 (XS-L) OR 59-87 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR A.
Rows 85-112 (XS-L) OR 88-116 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR B.
Rows 113-140 (XS-L) OR 117-145 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR C.
Rows 141-168 (XS-L) OR 146-174 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR A.
Rows 169-196 (XS-L) OR 175-203 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
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Sleeves (make 2)
For the sleeves, you’ll begin with COLOR B and crochet 3 color blocks of 28 rows per block, with decrease rows scattered throughout, before adding ribbing at the end. As a reminder, a decrease row is: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), turn. SC2TOG over first 2 CH1 spaces. (CH1, SC in next CH1 space) across.
IMPORTANT: When you finish a color, fasten it off with a tail long enough to be used for seaming the edges of that color block together.
To begin: With COLOR B, CH80 (86,92,98,104,110,116,122,128).
Row 1: SC in 4th CH from hook (counts as first CH1 space and first SC). (CH1, SK1, SC in next) across. (78 [84, 90, 96, 102, 108, 114, 120, 126] )
Rows 2-11: Regular row. (78 [84, 90, 96, 102, 108, 114, 120, 126] )
Row 12: Decrease row. (76 [82, 88, 94, 100, 106, 112, 118, 124] )
Row 13: Decrease row. (74 [80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110, 116, 122] )
Rows 14-24: Regular row. (74 [80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110, 116, 122] )
Row 25: Decrease row. (72 [78, 84, 90, 96, 102, 108, 114, 120] )
Row 26: Decrease row. (70 [76, 82, 88, 94, 100, 106, 112, 118] )
Rows 27-37 (switch to COLOR C on Row 29): Regular row. (70 [76, 82, 88, 94, 100, 106, 112, 118] )
Row 38: Decrease row. (68 [74, 80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110, 116] )
Row 39: Decrease row. (66 [72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102, 108, 114] )
Rows 40-50: Regular row. (66 [72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102, 108, 114] )
Row 51: Decrease row. (64 [70, 76, 82, 88, 94, 100, 106, 112] )
Row 52: Decrease row. (62 [68, 74, 80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110] )
Rows 53-63 (switch to COLOR A on Row 57): Regular row. (62 [68, 74, 80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110] )
Row 64: Decrease row. (60 [66, 72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102, 108] )
Row 65: Decrease row. (58 [64, 70, 76, 82, 88, 94, 100, 106] )
Rows 66-76: Regular row. (58 [64, 70, 76, 82, 88, 94, 100, 106] )
Row 77: Decrease row. (56 [62, 68, 74, 80, 86, 92, 98, 104] )
Row 78: Decrease row. (54 [60, 66, 72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102] )
Rows 79-85 (switch to COLOR B on Row 85): Regular row. (54 [60, 66, 72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102] )
Row 86: CH1, turn. SC in first SC, SK first CH1 space, SC in next SC, SC in next CH1 space, SK next SC, SC in next CH1 space. (SC in next SC, SK next CH1 space, SC in next SC, SC in next CH1 space, SK next SC, SC in next CH1 space) across. (36 [40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68] )
Keep hook inserted for next step.
Next, we will be creating the ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the sleeve as we go. We’ll be referring to “Row 86”; that’s the last row of the sleeve we completed, and that’s what the ribbing will be attaching to. I cover this in the video tutorial for this pattern, but if you feel you need a little more in-depth help with this part, here’s another tutorial video that is specifically about this technique.
CH17.
Row 1: Turn. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 15 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Row 86, the stitch on which your CH17 was built. SL ST into the next ST from Row 86. (16, plus the two slip stitches along Row 86)
The section we just created, built on the CH17, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 86, SC in BLO of each of the first 15 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (16)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 15 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 SCs along row 86. (16, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 86)
Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 86, SC in BLO of each of the first 15 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (16)
Rows 5-the end: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way across Row 86. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming this color section.
Fold sleeve in half lengthwise and use long finishing tails to seam each color block together. Weave in all ends and keep sleeve inside out.
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Pockets (make 2)
For the pockets, you’ll simply crochet two rectangles with Color A. Easy!
To begin: With COLOR A, CH36 (36, 36, 36, 40, 40, 40, 40, 40).
Row 1: SC in 4th CH from hook (counts as first CH1 space and first SC). (CH1, SK1, SC in next) across.
Stitch count (will remain the same for each row): 34 (34, 34, 34, 38, 38, 38, 38, 38)
Rows 2-32 (XS-L) OR 2-36 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing pocket to cardigan later. Weave in starting tail.
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Seaming
It’s time to seam it all together! Here are a few tips before you begin:
- Use the mattress stitch to seam your work (demonstrated in the tutorial video).
- Be sure to seam everything inside out. There are no “wrong sides” on your flat panels, but once you begin seaming, stay consistent and make sure all of your seams are facing out (including the arm seams that you already did). When you’re done seaming, you can flip everything right-side out.
- When seaming the arms to the cardigan, you can use a 1:1 ratio; meaning, each single stitch along the arm hole will be seamed up with a single row along the side of the cardigan.
Seam up your cardigan in this order, using the diagram below as a visual:
- With COLOR A, seam the tops of the front panels to the top of the back panel as shown.
- With COLOR B, seam the arms (make sure they’re inside out!) to body of cardigan.
- Seam down the sides of the cardigan using whichever color you are joining. You’ll have more ends to weave in, but it looks better than seaming it with all one color.
- Sew the pockets to the front panels, just above the last color block.
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Collar
Our final step is to add the collar with COLOR A. We’re going to lay the foundation by starting at the bottom corner of the front panel (indicated on the diagram below) and working a “regular row” up the side, across the middle of the back panel, and down the opposite side. Since there are no stitches to work into along the edges of the front panels, you’ll be treating each row as one stitch. This is demonstrated in the tutorial video.
To begin: Attach COLOR A; CH2 (counts as first CH1 space). (CH1, SK1, SC in next) across, working up the side, across the back and down the other side. Be sure to end with an SC.
Rows 2-12: Regular rows.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
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Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #evacardigan and tag me @yarnandchai.design. I can’t wait to see your finished cardigan!
Hello, I just want to double check before starting this pattern. When the size measurement says “48-50″ for 2xl,” but also has 6-8″ positive ease, if i have a 54″ bust, should i make the 2xl because the positive ease adds 6-8″ ?
thanks!
Hi Stefany! You could go either way. Since it’s a cardigan and isn’t designed to close around you anyway, you can determine the size you want based on how you want the overall cardigan to fit. The 2XL will give you more of a tailored look while sizing up will give it more of a cozy / slouchy feel. That’s the trouble with “standard measurements”, they are just averages and don’t work perfectly for everyone. (I’m speaking as a fellow busty girl) 🙂
I am working on gauge, and I had to chain 40 but only get 19 stitches across for the sc ch1 sk sc ch1…..It says I should have 38 stitches. What am I doing wrong?
Nothing (see Note #3 in the pattern) 🙂
Can someone please tell me the size of the pocket for an XL, I have looked everywhere and I asked on the fb page but no luck, I would really appreciate the feedback
6″ wide x 5.25″ tall. It’s on the measurements chart at the beginning of the pattern. 🙂
Are the front and back panels actually worked from the top down. I am mostly a knitter and everything is bottom up but I notice the pattern goes in order color A, B, then C and the picture shows A, C, then B from the bottom up. Then when piecing them together the stitching is actually upside down I am guessing to match the sleeve that is worked from the shoulder down. Am I correct?
Would love to know what to do after Row 1. I just started this and Row 2 is not described. Do I need to chain one or two, or what???
Row 2 through 32: Regular Row: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), turn. SC in first CH1 space. (CH1, SC in next CH1 space) across.
Heather, please see Note #5 at the beginning of the pattern.
Thanks! I must have missed it. I’m on row 11 now and am excited to see the end product. I’m actually making it with a #3 yarn. I just factored in the extra weight and am going a size smaller with the pattern.
Love your patterns! Im a knitter at heart but you’ve got me into crochet with your videos that are sooooo helpful and thoughtfully put together. I’ve ordered the yarn to make this cause it’s so cute. I’m wonderIng if I wanted it a little shorter, not too much, maybe I could just omit the bottom color block, the darker one and just start it on the next one up. Still using the darker color. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and patterns.
You can do it that way, or if you want to keep the same color pattern, you can omit 1 row per color block for every inch you want it to be shorter. (So if you want it to be 3″ shorter, omit 3 rows from each color block.) Just be sure to do all three panels the same 🙂
I actually love making the pieces separately & then seaming them together. can you make a baby sweater pattern similar to this (can be all one color) but as a cardigan with buttons? Thanks!
I started this today. I was going for the XL and after the first few rows my panel is 32 inches instead of 24 inches. I ripped out an tried the L and still I am over 30 inches. I tried the guage and it is way too big. I am using the yarn and hooks recommended. I don’t want to keep going if it is going to be too wide. What should I do?
go down needle size. to figure out which size, do a small swatch to measure your gauge
I started this today. I was going for thr XL and after the first few rows my panel is 32 inches instead of 24 inches. I ripped out an tried the L and still I am over 30 inches. I tried the guage and it is way too big. I am using the yarn and hooks recommended. I don’t want to keep going if it is going to be too wide. What should I do?
Hi Robyn, are you sure you are using the Soft & Sleek DK and not the regular Soft & Sleek?
Hey Rebecca! Thanks so much for this beautiful pattern, I can’t wait to start it!! I did want to ask if you had any recommendations for how to make the sleeves longer but still keep everything symmetrical looking? I love having my sleeves come down to the back of my hand but didn’t want to try and attempt to guess my way through doing this, being new to crochet, I guarantee it would’ve ended badly lol! Thanks for any help!! 🙂
Hi! You can just add an extra row (or two, or three) to each color block on the arms. You won’t even be able to tell. 🙂
I usually only crochet afghans, but this year I decided that I could crochet this cardigan. It seems to be going and looking good, so I hope the outcome will be great. After watching your video I was disappointed that you didn’t give more instruction on how to seam in the pockets onto the cardigan. Could you guide me on how to seam the pockets to the cardigan or give me a link that I might could use? Thank you for allowing us to crochet and use your projects.
Ofilia
I’ve crocheted for years, but only afghans. I feel stupid for asking, but can you give more specifics on decreasing the sleeves? Most afghan patterns detail that out within the pattern and I don’t want to get that far along and not do it right!!
Hi Jayne! It’s pretty simple. Just follow the instructions line-by-line using the details in the Notes section of the pattern, which are:
Regular Row: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), turn. SC in first CH1 space. (CH1, SC in next CH1 space) across.
Decrease Row: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), turn. SC2TOG over first 2 CH1 spaces. (CH1, SC in next CH1 space) across.
Let me know if that doesn’t help!
Love the Pattern But My Gauge is a little off 25 stitches across is 4 inches But My height of 27 stitches is 5 inches Should i be worried about it?
Hi Patricia! You might want to keep a ruler handy. Divide the total length of the size you’re doing by 7 (the number of color blocks) and crochet each color block until it is that height. Do each one equally and make sure you do the same thing for each panel. You’ll be fine 🙂
Hi Rebecca, I thought you might be interested in this technique. It really does help a lot when starting the Linen stitch. The only thing is the first row will be sc’s across, but it looks really nice. It’s really important to go up a hook size for this one. (yes ! the exact opposite of your reccomendation) lol. I’ve even improved on this lady’s stitch work and it works up even faster! You keep both strands in your left hand and manipulate the hood to grab the yarns. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pngq8JCkPIE&list=PLWHGx_lVh2Ay8SRiw5NiqCI3wvDauEQ0V&index=19&t=0s
WOW ! I was wondering what all the hype was concerning this pattern , a pattern is a pattern – Not ! LOVE it and will be making it. You have made a Gorgeous garment , all your sweat and tears were worth it. It’s Absolutely Perfect ! You did some ‘ holyghost ‘ praying , right ? Looking forward to getting started but need yarn first. Have a Blessed week and keep creating.
Aww thank you so much, that is so kind! And yes, there were definitely sweat, tears AND prayers along the way, lol!
Thank you Rebecca
Hi Rebecca, I am a woman who is 4’10” just wondering if this will be to long and if so how would I adjust it. Thanks
Hi Mary! You are only about 3 inches shorter than the model (5’1). If you want a shorter cardigan, you can remove one row from each color block to lose about one inch total. Two rows for two inches, and so on. Just make sure you do the same thing for each panel 🙂
I have started this cardigan and I did exactly what you said with changing hook sizes etc. I’m still getting a curve effect. Is there something I can do to fix this without starting over. Ive started over about 4 times with the same result. Thank you!
You’d need to use an even smaller hook to start, or just really focus on keeping that chain and first row tight.
Hi, l purchased the pattern but it will not download.
Any help will do.
Thanks
I’ve emailed it to you directly 🙂
Hi Rebecca! We have a Michael’s(notorious for not being well-stocked) here but I usually order yarn online from yarncanada.ca . I have been going through their #1, list seeing if I could match yarn bee’s gauge. Some come close but not exact. Looking forward to seeing FB group suggestions.
Natalie
Wondering if loops and threads wellness baby or well baby yarn would work. I do believe its a #1 and I know it comes in a couple shades of grey and pink As well as other shades…..820yds for $10. I know I’ve had it in my hands and its nice. Not yarn bee but I believe a great substitute especially if your tight on funds.
My Michaels had it on clearance forever in store so I’d check before going. I did see it online thought.
Thanks Dawn, I will check. I don’t mind paying more for good quality yarn. I want to make the sweater for my youngest. Michael’s in Canada has an online shop now so will look there, too. I think yarnspirations also has a Canadian site for ordering now as well. Unfortunately, no yarn bee and online isn’t conducive to ordering a ball of yarn for swatches(cheaper to buy all at once for shipping)
Natalie