It’s hard to believe I’m ready to release my first garment pattern, because this has been a looooong process!
I can’t even tell you how many times over the last year that I’ve started designing a garment and ended up scrapping the whole thing. I can create hats and scarves in my sleep, but garment design is a whole new beast!
Part of the reason it was such a process is because I was determined to design it the right way — with size inclusivity. This cardigan pattern includes 9 sizes, from XS through 5XL, because we all deserve to wear our beautiful creations! But… it meant lots of learning and lots of calculations. Now that I’ve done it, I can say that I definitely did learn a lot and my next design should be much easier on my brain. (FYI, my model is 5’1 and is wearing XS, her usual clothing size.)
ABOUT THE YARN
The beautiful heathered yarn in my sample is Yarn Bee Soft & Sleek DK (order it through my affiliate link here). I strongly recommend it, BUT, please read on for my important notes about it.
It’s just as soft as it is pretty, and I absolutely loved working with it. The skeins are generous at 478 yards, and while I can’t say I’ve really tested it out, it is a low-pill yarn. I used Mink (color A), Cloud Control (color B), and Pink Lemonade (color C) in my sample cardigan.
The only strange thing about this particular yarn is that while it’s classified as a #3 weight, it feels a whole lot more like a #1. That’s quite a difference, right!? I did some investigating online, and most of the reviews I found agreed. I also compared its yards-to-grams ratio with other #1, #2 and #3 yarns, and it most definitely fit in the #1 category. I have no explanation for this, but you’ll need to keep it in mind if you decide to use a substitute; you’ll want to start with a #1, or thin #2, yarn. And it should go without saying, but please do a gauge check.
Update: I asked in my Facebook group what substitute yarns people were using successfully with this pattern, and here’s a list! Please note that crocheters have been able to meet the pattern gauge with each of these yarns, but they may have used a slightly smaller or larger hook size to do so. It’s all part of the gauging process!
- Loops & Threads Woolike (Michael’s)
- Cotton Kings (Hobbii)
- Dotted Line (Lion Brand)
- It’s A Wrap Rainbow (Red Heart)
- Yarn Bee Glint of Glam (Hobby Lobby)
- Amazing Lace (Lion Brand)
- Yarn Bee Pigment (Hobby Lobby)
VIDEO TUTORIAL
I’ve put together a step-by-step video tutorial for you visual learners! This video is meant to help you as you work from the written pattern and goes over each technique that you’ll need to complete your cardigan, from the linen stitch to seaming.
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern is also available as an ad-free, printable PDF! You can purchase the individual pattern, or if you love PDFs, you might want to check out my All Access Pass. It’s an awesome deal! (Or, scroll down for the free version!)
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Eva Cardigan
Language
American Standard
Difficulty
Easy
Finished Sizes
Pattern is written for sizes XS – 5XL (see chart for specific measurements). Cardigan has a loose fit, with 6-8″ positive ease.
Hook
G (4.5mm) or whichever hook is needed to meet gauge. You may also want to have a smaller hook handy (see Note #2). My favorite hooks are Clover Amour (affiliate link).
Yarn
I used Yarn Bee Soft & Sleek DK (affiliate link), a soft, heathered yarn from Hobby Lobby that is categorized as a #3 weight, but please note that it feels more like a fingering weight (#1!). Most of the online reviews I’ve read agree with this assessment, and its yardage-to-grams ratio would suggest that it is a fingering weight. It was a great yarn to work with, but if you don’t have access to it, I strongly suggest working up a gauge swatch in a fingering or light sport yarn as #3 weights will be too thick.
The table below will tell you how much yarn you will need for your size. Please note that the number of skeins required is specific to Yarn Bee Soft & Sleek DK, and if you use a different yarn, you’ll need to go by yardage when deciding how much to purchase.
Gauge
25 STS x 27 rows = 4″ square (worked in the linen stitch). To get an accurate gauge, which is especially important in a garment pattern, you should work up a swatch that is larger than 4″ and measure within it, away from the edges. (Tip: Work up one of the pockets as your gauge swatch. That way, you’ll already have one pocket ready to go!)
You’ll also need
Yarn needle
Terms and Abbreviations
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
SC2TOG (single crochet 2 together; see Special Stitch)
BLO (back loop only)
Special Stitch
SC2TOG (single crochet 2 together): In this pattern, SC2TOGs will be worked over two CH1 spaces. Complete them as follows: Insert hook in next CH1 space, yarn over and pull up loop (2 loops on hook); insert hook in next CH1 space, yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook); yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook. This will decrease your stitch count by 2 (1 SC and 1 CH1 space).
Notes
- A video tutorial is available up in the post, or by clicking here.
- When I work the linen stitch (the stitch used throughout this pattern), my fabric tends to pull in a bit after the first couple of rows. To avoid this, I use a smaller (3.5mm) hook for the initial chain and the first row, before switching to my regular hook. This is not noted in the pattern, but you might find it helpful if your first couple of rows are coming out wider. If you choose to stick with the regular hook, be sure to keep a tight tension in those first couple of rows.
- Each row will have an equal number of stitches and CH1 spaces. The sum of these is reflected in the stitch counts. For example, a stitch count of 78 means that row has 39 stitches + 39 CH1 spaces.
- Pattern is written for sizes Xs-5XL, with counts for sizes S-5XL written in parentheses. Example: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) It might help to highlight the correct counts for your size before you begin.
- To avoid redundancy, pattern has been written out as “regular rows” and “decrease rows”, with applicable stitch counts included for each row. Use the following instructions for each:
Regular Row: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), turn. SC in first CH1 space. (CH1, SC in next CH1 space) across.
Decrease Row: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), turn. SC2TOG over first 2 CH1 spaces. (CH1, SC in next CH1 space) across.
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Back Panel (make 1)
For this panel, you’ll crochet 7 color blocks of 28 (sizes XS-L) or 29 (sizes XL-5XL) rows per block. There are no increases or decreases.
To begin: With COLOR A, CH116 (128,140,152,164,178,190,202,214).
Row 1: SC in 4th CH from hook (counts as first CH1 space and first SC). (CH1, SK1, SC in next) across.
Stitch count (will remain the same for each row): 114 (126,138,150,162,176,188,200,212)
Rows 2-28 (XS-L) OR 2-29 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR B.
Rows 29-56 (XS-L) OR 30-58 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR C.
Rows 57-84 (XS-L) OR 59-87 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR A.
Rows 85-112 (XS-L) OR 88-116 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR B.
Rows 113-140 (XS-L) OR 117-145 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR C.
Rows 141-168 (XS-L) OR 146-174 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR A.
Rows 169-196 (XS-L) OR 175-203 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
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Front Panels (make 2)
For these panels, you’ll crochet 7 color blocks of 28 (sizes XS-L) or 29 (sizes XL-5XL) rows per block. There are no increases or decreases.
To begin: With COLOR A, CH44 (50,56,62,68,74,80,88,94).
Row 1: SC in 4th CH from hook (counts as first CH1 space and first SC). (CH1, SK1, SC in next) across.
Stitch count (will remain the same for each row): 42 (48,54,60,66,72,78,86,92)
Rows 2-28 (XS-L) OR 2-29 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR B.
Rows 29-56 (XS-L) OR 30-58 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR C.
Rows 57-84 (XS-L) OR 59-87 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR A.
Rows 85-112 (XS-L) OR 88-116 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR B.
Rows 113-140 (XS-L) OR 117-145 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR C.
Rows 141-168 (XS-L) OR 146-174 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Switch to COLOR A.
Rows 169-196 (XS-L) OR 175-203 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
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Sleeves (make 2)
For the sleeves, you’ll begin with COLOR B and crochet 3 color blocks of 28 rows per block, with decrease rows scattered throughout, before adding ribbing at the end. As a reminder, a decrease row is: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), turn. SC2TOG over first 2 CH1 spaces. (CH1, SC in next CH1 space) across.
IMPORTANT: When you finish a color, fasten it off with a tail long enough to be used for seaming the edges of that color block together.
To begin: With COLOR B, CH80 (86,92,98,104,110,116,122,128).
Row 1: SC in 4th CH from hook (counts as first CH1 space and first SC). (CH1, SK1, SC in next) across. (78 [84, 90, 96, 102, 108, 114, 120, 126] )
Rows 2-11: Regular row. (78 [84, 90, 96, 102, 108, 114, 120, 126] )
Row 12: Decrease row. (76 [82, 88, 94, 100, 106, 112, 118, 124] )
Row 13: Decrease row. (74 [80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110, 116, 122] )
Rows 14-24: Regular row. (74 [80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110, 116, 122] )
Row 25: Decrease row. (72 [78, 84, 90, 96, 102, 108, 114, 120] )
Row 26: Decrease row. (70 [76, 82, 88, 94, 100, 106, 112, 118] )
Rows 27-37 (switch to COLOR C on Row 29): Regular row. (70 [76, 82, 88, 94, 100, 106, 112, 118] )
Row 38: Decrease row. (68 [74, 80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110, 116] )
Row 39: Decrease row. (66 [72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102, 108, 114] )
Rows 40-50: Regular row. (66 [72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102, 108, 114] )
Row 51: Decrease row. (64 [70, 76, 82, 88, 94, 100, 106, 112] )
Row 52: Decrease row. (62 [68, 74, 80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110] )
Rows 53-63 (switch to COLOR A on Row 57): Regular row. (62 [68, 74, 80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 110] )
Row 64: Decrease row. (60 [66, 72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102, 108] )
Row 65: Decrease row. (58 [64, 70, 76, 82, 88, 94, 100, 106] )
Rows 66-76: Regular row. (58 [64, 70, 76, 82, 88, 94, 100, 106] )
Row 77: Decrease row. (56 [62, 68, 74, 80, 86, 92, 98, 104] )
Row 78: Decrease row. (54 [60, 66, 72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102] )
Rows 79-85 (switch to COLOR B on Row 85): Regular row. (54 [60, 66, 72, 78, 84, 90, 96, 102] )
Row 86: CH1, turn. SC in first SC, SK first CH1 space, SC in next SC, SC in next CH1 space, SK next SC, SC in next CH1 space. (SC in next SC, SK next CH1 space, SC in next SC, SC in next CH1 space, SK next SC, SC in next CH1 space) across. (36 [40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68] )
Keep hook inserted for next step.
Next, we will be creating the ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the sleeve as we go. We’ll be referring to “Row 86”; that’s the last row of the sleeve we completed, and that’s what the ribbing will be attaching to. I cover this in the video tutorial for this pattern, but if you feel you need a little more in-depth help with this part, here’s another tutorial video that is specifically about this technique.
CH17.
Row 1: Turn. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 15 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Row 86, the stitch on which your CH17 was built. SL ST into the next ST from Row 86. (16, plus the two slip stitches along Row 86)
The section we just created, built on the CH17, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 86, SC in BLO of each of the first 15 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (16)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 15 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 SCs along row 86. (16, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 86)
Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 86, SC in BLO of each of the first 15 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (16)
Rows 5-the end: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way across Row 86. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming this color section.
Fold sleeve in half lengthwise and use long finishing tails to seam each color block together. Weave in all ends and keep sleeve inside out.
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Pockets (make 2)
For the pockets, you’ll simply crochet two rectangles with Color A. Easy!
To begin: With COLOR A, CH36 (36, 36, 36, 40, 40, 40, 40, 40).
Row 1: SC in 4th CH from hook (counts as first CH1 space and first SC). (CH1, SK1, SC in next) across.
Stitch count (will remain the same for each row): 34 (34, 34, 34, 38, 38, 38, 38, 38)
Rows 2-32 (XS-L) OR 2-36 (XL-5XL): Regular row.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing pocket to cardigan later. Weave in starting tail.
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Seaming
It’s time to seam it all together! Here are a few tips before you begin:
- Use the mattress stitch to seam your work (demonstrated in the tutorial video).
- Be sure to seam everything inside out. There are no “wrong sides” on your flat panels, but once you begin seaming, stay consistent and make sure all of your seams are facing out (including the arm seams that you already did). When you’re done seaming, you can flip everything right-side out.
- When seaming the arms to the cardigan, you can use a 1:1 ratio; meaning, each single stitch along the arm hole will be seamed up with a single row along the side of the cardigan.
Seam up your cardigan in this order, using the diagram below as a visual:
- With COLOR A, seam the tops of the front panels to the top of the back panel as shown.
- With COLOR B, seam the arms (make sure they’re inside out!) to body of cardigan.
- Seam down the sides of the cardigan using whichever color you are joining. You’ll have more ends to weave in, but it looks better than seaming it with all one color.
- Sew the pockets to the front panels, just above the last color block.
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Collar
Our final step is to add the collar with COLOR A. We’re going to lay the foundation by starting at the bottom corner of the front panel (indicated on the diagram below) and working a “regular row” up the side, across the middle of the back panel, and down the opposite side. Since there are no stitches to work into along the edges of the front panels, you’ll be treating each row as one stitch. This is demonstrated in the tutorial video.
To begin: Attach COLOR A; CH2 (counts as first CH1 space). (CH1, SK1, SC in next) across, working up the side, across the back and down the other side. Be sure to end with an SC.
Rows 2-12: Regular rows.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
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Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #evacardigan and tag me @yarnandchai.design. I can’t wait to see your finished cardigan!
You have had surely put the bottom side for shoulders…isn’t it?
Hello! I have a quick question. I followed the pattern for the panels (A, B, C, A, B, C, A) but when I go to seam it together, the stitches are a ^ instead of a “v” since the panels are worked from the bottom to the top. In your pictures and the video, the stitches are a “v”. Am I missing something?? Please let me know!!
You have had surely put the bottom side for shoulders…isn’t it?
This is a beautiful sweater! Can’t believe you were a beginner when you created it!! Thanks for the PLUS sizes too.
I purchased a PDF of the Eva Cardigan but it never came through. Can you tell me how to print the free copy and get a refund ?
Hi Rebecca,
I am currently working this pattern. I love the stitch and the way it is coming out. However I have a problem, In each piece the colors match, In the picture it shows the shoulders matching the top section of the sleeve. But the instructions tell you to use a different color yarn for the top of your sleeve, So the colors do not match. Is this intentional or was it an oversight? I dont want to frog my whole sleeve and start over. Is it possible to add another block to the top of the front and back panels to match the colors? Or should I continue with it as is?
Thank you for your beautiful patterns!!
Connie
seems like the first half of the sleeve is fine, but then it needed to taper much more in the lower half to fit me – bottom section and wrist are way too big. How can i adjust it?
Love this! I am making a variation of it now using some yarn I already had.
Question…. The body of the sweater has been flipped so that it became a bottom up crochet and shows off the v shape in the stitches. The sleeves have to remain top down because of the shaping, decreases so there is a different look to the fabric. The stitches have a ^ look to them. Was this intentional? I’m trying to decide if I should leave the body of the sweater to match the sleeves, or flip it 180 degrees to show the v’s.
Hi, Rebecca,
Could you use brave sport for this sweater? I have a ton! Please let me know.
Thanks,
Lisa
That’s brava sport from knit picks
I’m making one from a similar weight yarn that I had on hand. I am using a 4mm hook and heavily relying on the section measurements to build it. That is, I made a gauge swatch for my size, found that it would make a size 3x and then calculated what size to make from there. I wear a size large according to the body measurements listed, so I am using the stitch counts from size Xs, which gets me to the piece measures for each section. Errrgh probably not very clear, but it is effective!
What app do you use to sketch out the idea?
I haven’t used it so I don’t know how it compares to the thinness of the yarn I used. You’d need to do a gauge check to determine if it could be done.
What are the measurements on the pocket suppose to be?
Please refer to the measurements chart under “finished sizes” to determine the pocket measurements for your chosen size.
I’m SO stuck 🙁 I have frogged the pocket like 8 times ( I even snapped my yarn ) I’m trying to test gauge by making a pocket and I cannot keep straight edges to save my life and I am horribly lost on the stitch count: in the notes section it says the number of stitches should be single crochet stitches PLUS chain stitches: so when turning and chaining two does it go : single crochet last stitch chain two: turn OR is it Single crochet stitch chain one ( to make the last stitch count) then chain two? I’m worried I got even the basic row one wrong because I counted the 38th stitch ( XL ) as the chain one stitch.. I’m having difficulty finding where to put my hook in both ends of the row and I did check out the video but it only showed on one row and it didn’t really look like what I had so… any advice? I have tried a few different videos on counting stitches ( cuz I’m either decreasing or increasing) and I can’t figure out exactly how those stitches count it should be: 38 dive by 2 : = 10 single and 19 chain one: does the turn in the chain count as the first stitch? Thanks lol I really want to make this with straight pockets…
!!! oh and when checking gauge: do I count the chain one spaces in the gauge check? thanks 🙂
Hi Destiny! I’m getting a little confused reading through what you’re describing 🙂 My best advice is to do exactly what the instructions say; no more, no less. If it doesn’t say to chain 1 before the chain 2 (and it doesn’t), don’t. I know you said you watched the video, but that shows exactly what you are supposed to do, and other than the first row that’s crocheted into the chain, every row is exactly the same. Is it possible you might be overthinking it? 😉 (And yes, the ch1 spaces count in the gauge check. I’m not sure how you could measure without including them.)
Sorry to not be of more help!
Thats ok 🙂 I apreciate the reply 🙂 I honestly quit trying to make it perfect I think my gauge is off by a couple stitches like 26 stitches in 29 rows : I think – It’s really hard for me to measure this stich so worse case scenario it might be a little bit smaller but there’s a lot of positive ease and the fabric the swatch / pocket made was really stretchy so I’m not too worried. It’s my first time trying to follow a pattern so if is not perfect – that’s ok 🙂
What app do you use to sketch out the idea
I love this pattern and I so want to make it! Unfortunately no matter which hook I use I absolutely cannot get gauge. I either get close to the stitches but there’s too many rows, or I have way too many stitches. Are you a tight crocheter or loose? I have all the yarn and I want to make it work but I’m ready to give up because I don’t know what to do. Any advice? Maybe shorten the amount of rows per section?
Hi Kimberly! I’m a tight crocheter, but beyond that, I probably have a shorter “golden loop” than you do; that’s usually the issue when you can meet gauge on width but not height (or vice versa). The simplest way to get around it on this pattern would be to lessen the number of rows in each color block. As long as you are sure to do the same thing for each panel, you’ll be fine! 🙂
Hello. I’m cannot open the link to hobby lobby to buy the yarn. Please help. I get error code 16 and it says I am blocked due to security rules. I’ve tried on both my phone and laptop.
Thank you
If you live outside the US, you will not be able to purchase the Hobby Lobby yarn. If that is the case, you’ll need to find a substitute.
Paid for the pdf and downloaded it Can’t find it What’s it called
Hi Dawn! I am currently experiencing some significant technical issues with the Yarn + Chai shop. Please accept my deepest apologies. If you haven’t already, email me directly at rebecca@yarnandchai.com and I will send it to you via email.
Hi, all;
Anyone using simply soft as an alternative since its lightweight? I have a bunch and they are sold out on the yarn you used. Thanks!
Lisa
Hi Rebecca,
I’m confused about the end of a row of the first row linen stitch (working into the chain). I keep coming up with only one stitch left, so I can’t skip a stitch to reach the final stitch. Am I goofing up somewhere? Your video cuts off before you get to the end of the row.
Thanks for any help!
Oh boy, I’m so sorry. My fault. I just went backwards through each stitch and found where I hadn’t skipped a chain at one point. Everything worked out after that.
Best way to make the sleeves longer? About to start making them. But I like my sleeves a little longer.
Thanks
Hi Rebecca!
Quick question about the sleeves. I’m making a 3x and throughout the pattern my blocks have been 29 rows. I see you have the sleeves at 28. Is that universal across all sizes? I just want to make sure my blocks line up when seaming.
Thank you!
Hi there,
Thank you so much for this pattern. I’m in the middle of making the back panel. I’m loving the feel and look of this yarn!!
I’m thinking ahead to seaming when it’s time. Do you block your panels before seaming or do you block after seaming?
Let me know when you can!
Hi Victoria! I actually didn’t block it at all. But if you needed to, I think the general consensus is to block before seaming. 🙂
Hi! I’m currently working on this cardigan. I did the first pocket. By default I always go down a hook size so I’ve started this cardigan using a 4mm hook. I’m just worried about my gauge.
Hi Fatma, I’m not sure I understand. Did you do a gauge check? I’m not sure how you would know whether or not to downsize your hook otherwise.
How many inches should each stripe be?
About 4 1/4″, give or take due to normal stretching from gravity.