Herringbone Half Double Crochet worked in the round provides one of my favorite crocheted textures. I used it in the Carlyle Slouch + Cowl set and the Herringbone Baby Hat, and it’s making an appearance again in this doubly-thick, modern potholder.
The color-blocking gives you endless possibilities for a more colorful potholder, but this pattern would look just as chic in a solid color, especially if presented in a set of two or three potholders of complimentary shades.
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Farmhouse Potholder
View on Ravelry
Difficulty: Easy
Finished Size: 7.75″ x 7.75″
Hook: E (3.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge
Yarn: Approx. 160 yards (80 yards per color) of cotton in a medium (#4) weight. For my sample, I used I Love This Cotton in Dark Denim + Pale Denim.
Gauge: 15 rows of 18 HHDC = 4″ square
You’ll also need: Yarn needle
Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “Special Stitch”, below)
Special Stitch:
Herringbone Half Double Crochet (HHDC): Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.
(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here.)
Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CHs do not count as a stitch.
(3) There is no stitch multiple for this pattern. If you want to make it larger or smaller, add or subtract chains at the beginning and repeat rounds as many times as necessary for the height you want. (If doing two colors, switch when potholder is half the height you want it to be.)
INSTRUCTIONS
To Begin: With COLOR A, CH37.
Round 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook. HHDC in each remaining CH. Working down the opposite side of the chain, HHDC across. (You have now worked in both sides of each chain.) Do not join. (72)
Rounds 2-15: HHDC in each ST around. Do not join. (72)
Round 16: You may notice that your starting point has shifted over a bit and is no longer right on the fold. This is normal and has to do with the anatomy of a stitch and the fact that we aren’t turning our rounds, but that’s a lesson for another day. For now, since we want to put our color change on the fold (where the jagged change won’t be as noticeable), HHDC in next few stitches (until you are back on the folded edge), then switch to COLOR B. HHDC in each remaining ST around. Do not join. (72)
Rounds 17-29: HHDC in each ST around. Do not join. (72)
Round 30: HHDC in each ST until you get to the first folded edge. Then, continue to HHDC around until you get to the next fold. CH20; SL ST back into the same ST to form a loop. HHDC in each remaining ST around. (72 + CH20)
To finish: Determine how many stitches are left between where your hook is now, and the folded edge. (There should be about 6 or 7, but don’t worry if yours is more or less.) SC in all but one of those STS, then SL ST in the final ST. (So your SL ST should be right on the folded part.)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming. Weave in your other tails, then use the finishing tail and a yarn needle to sew potholder closed. Tie a knot at the end; then run your yarn needle into the nearest opening and underneath about half a dozen stitches (going between the two layers of fabric). Pull yarn through, then reinsert yarn needle back into the exit point and repeat. Do this a few times, then cut yarn and pull fabric to make the tip of the yarn disappear completely into the potholder.
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Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design. Hope you enjoyed it!