(Full disclosure, I think the kid is even cuter.)

You could also leave the face off completely and just use this as a classic pumpkin pattern. I mean, look at that realistic shaping:

About the Yarn

The yarn I chose for my little jack-o-lantern was chosen based on color, not fiber. (There aren’t a lot of really good pumpkin oranges to choose from!) But Yarn Bee Tweed Indeed in “Pumpkin Tweed” fit my rustic vibe perfectly. It’s the same #4 weight yarn that I used for my Harvest Cardigan pattern, and I love it, but you could easily substitute it with a #4 of your choice.

For the face, I used I Love This Cotton in “Black”; but, again, this #4 weight cotton is easy to substitute!

Halloween Pumpkin

View on Ravelry

Difficulty: Intermediate

Crochet Language: American Standard

Finished Size: Finished pumpkin will be approximately 6” wide x 5.25” tall, but these measurements may vary slightly based on how you stuff and shape it.

Yarn: Approximately 160 yards of #4 worsted weight yarn for COLOR A (I used Yarn Bee Tweed Indeed in “Pumpkin Tweed”) and 20 yards of #4 worsted weight yarn for COLOR B (I used I Love This Cotton in “Black”)

Hook: 4.5mm (G) hook

Gauge: Not super important, but 12 CSC x 11.5 rows = 2” square.

You’ll also need: Regular and extra long yarn needles, stitch marker, poly-fill (stuffing), small stick (or cinnamon stick) for stem, fast drying glue

Terms and Abbreviations:
MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
CH (chain)
FLO (front loop only)
CSC (crossed single crochet: Insert hook into stitch. Yarn UNDER, pull through; 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through both loops.)
CSC2TOG (CSC 2 stitches together: Insert hook into FLO of stitch, then immediately insert hook into FLO of the next ST. Yarn UNDER, pull through front loop of each ST; 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through both loops.)

Notes:
(1) Pattern is worked in a seamless round. Do not join, chain and/or turn unless instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds.
(2) Crocheting the bulk of the pattern in FLO helps keep the stitches stacked neatly, as opposed to the natural slant they usually have when working in a seamless round. This helps keep the pumpkin’s face from slanting, too!
(3) I did not carry COLOR B behind any stitches made with COLOR A; instead, I picked up COLOR B whenever it was needed and dropped it immediately after.
(4) When you come to CSC stitches marked as COLOR B, complete them as follows: Insert hook into stitch, drop COLOR A, grab COLOR B and pull through (2 loops on hook); drop COLOR B, yarn over with COLOR A, pull through both loops.

INSTRUCTIONS

To begin: With COLOR A, make a magic circle; CH1.

Round 1: 20 CSC in MC. (20)

Round 2: 2 CSC in each ST around. (40)

Round 3: 2 CSC in each ST around. (80)

Note: Your circle will be very wavy because of all of the stitches you’ve crowded into a small area. Don’t worry!

Rounds 4-15: CSC in FLO of each ST around. (80)

Rounds 16-31: CSC in FLO of each ST around, following the color chart below. (80)

HOW TO READ THIS CHART: The pumpkin’s face is 19 STS across. Start in the bottom right square and work left. When you’ve completed the 19 charted STS, finish the rest of the round in COLOR A. Then move up a row and start again in the rightmost square. Each time you complete the 19 STS of the charted part of the round, finish the rest of the round with COLOR A.

Refer to pattern notes for more tips.

Lefties: The chart is symmetrical from side to side, so if it helps, you can start in the lower left corner instead.

(Note: The chart is upside down because we are crocheting this pumpkin from the top down.)

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Rounds 32-44: With COLOR A, CSC in FLO of each ST around. (80)

Pull up a large loop so your work doesn’t start to unravel, then remove your hook. We’re going to pause here to do two things: 

Weave in the starting tail: Turn your pumpkin inside out (so the ridges created by the FLO are visible), then insert your pumpkin stem into the opening created by the magic circle (see photo). Weave in the starting tail, then remove the stem (you’ll glue it in place later).

Turn pumpkin right side out.

Add stuffing: Use the polyfill to stuff the pumpkin. Don’t be skimpy; the better you stuff it, the better pumpkin shape you’ll have in the end.

Reinsert your hook and continue on to Round 45.

Round 45: CSC2TOG around. (40)

Round 46: CSC2TOG around. (20)

To finish: SL ST in each of the next 2 STS to smooth down the round, then fasten off, leaving a tail about 2 yards long. 

If your pumpkin needs a little more stuffing after crocheting the last two rounds, add it now.

 

SHAPING + FINISHING

Cinching and Closing:
Use yarn needle and finishing tail to weave along the bottom edge of the pumpkin, weaving in one stitch, out the next until you’re back where you started. Pull yarn tail to cinch closed. Weave yarn needle across the cinch in a couple different directions to reinforce closure; tie a knot, but do not fasten off.

Shaping:
Use extra-long yarn needle to run the finishing tail under the diagonal bar of each CSC in a vertical line as shown in the photo below:

Continue all the way to the top, then insert yarn needle down between the 1st and 2nd round and push it down through the pumpkin, pulling it out through the center of the bottom of the pumpkin.

Pull tight, creating an indent in the pumpkin.

Count over 10 stitches to the right from your first indent, and repeat the process. 

Continue the process, counting over 10 stitches each time. You should end with 8 evenly spaced indents. Tie a knot and weave in the tail.

Stem:
Add a few dots of fast-drying glue to the magic circle area of the pumpkin, then quickly insert stem and push down; hold to set.