
I’ve been getting so many requests for a square version of my baskets and I’ve promised to publish a pattern… today I’m finally delivering on that promise!
You can read through my design process, or scroll down for the free pattern.
Figuring Out the Base
I knew that I wanted these baskets to be built in one piece (no seaming). I initially started with a square base made in the round, like you would build a granny square, but I just wasn’t happy with the way the base puckered. Baskets need a tighter-than-usual hook and yarn combo that simply isn’t compatible with a nice flat worked-in-the-round square. So next, I tried a square worked in rows. Much better! Because of the tightness, the square didn’t lay flat at first, but by the time I finished the basket you never would’ve known.
Stabilizing the Sides
I also experimented with the plastic canvas to figure out the best way to utilize it. (If you aren’t familiar with my plastic canvas method for round baskets, check it out!) Round baskets naturally have a balanced design that provides structure to the edges, but square baskets lack that because of their long edges and inner corners. I started by putting folds in the canvas to accommodate the corners, but ended up cutting at the folds and stacking separate pieces against the individual sides of the basket. It seemed to make the corners a little more defined.
Adding Handles
I grabbed some leather from the craft store and cut it into small strips for the handles. I initially tried to attach them to the basket with rivets, but it wasn’t going very smoothly, and even when I did a decent job of hammering them, they still popped out of the yarn. So, I went with Plan B and sewed them on. I used a tiny hole punch to punch 4 holes in each end and used leftover yarn to sew them on with an “X”, going right through the plastic canvas on the inside of the basket. Of course, handles on your basket are totally optional. It does add a lot of character, though!
So after lots of trial and error, I think I’ve come up with a pretty cute square basket!
About Those Cute Leather Tags
Those adorable tags on my baskets aren’t actually leather at all – they’re cork! I had mine printed by All This Wood (affiliate link). They always do a great job for me. If you purchase tags of your own through this link, you won’t pay any extra, but I’ll get a small percentage of the sale. My affiliate links are just one of the ways I am able to keep releasing free patterns, so I am always incredibly appreciative of anyone who uses them!
Video Tutorial
I’ve put together a video tutorial to assist you throughout this pattern. The video tutorial is specifically designed to help you create any size of basket you want! Instructions for inserting the plastic canvas can be found at 27:35.
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF. Below are two options: my popular All Access Pass, and the individual PDF pattern. Click the image to learn more about each option.
Herringbone Square Basket Set
Difficulty: Easy
Yarn: I used Bernat Maker Home Dec (a #5 bulky weight cotton/nylon blend) in “Clay”. Yarn amounts are listed with individual pattern sizes.
Hooks: H (5.0mm) and G (4.25mm)
Gauge: With larger hook, 14 SC x 14 rows =4″ square
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker, heavy duty plastic canvas
Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see Special Stitches, below)
3rd Loop (see Special Stitches, below)
Special Stitches:
HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.
3rd Loop: Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. For this pattern the 3rd loop can be found just below the back loop on the side of the work that is facing away from you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, reach over the two top loops and insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the right side of the pattern. Also called Camel Stitch or RibHDC.
Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) IMPORTANT: Part of this pattern is worked in rows, part is worked in seamless rounds, and a small portion is worked in joined rounds. Pay attention, and only join, chain and/or turn when specifically instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds when working seamlessly.
(3) When instructed to “join”, you should always join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of that round.
(4) The finished size of each basket is listed on its individual pattern.
(5) Heavy duty plastic canvas is inexpensive and can be purchased in individual sheets at many craft stores.
(6) To resize the basket, simply chain the length you want one side to be, then crochet the same number of rows as you have stitches in each row.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
SMALLER BASKET
Yarn Used: 125 yards
Finished Size: 6″ wide x 2.5″ tall
To begin: CH17.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining chain. (16)
Rows 2-16: CH1, turn. SC across. (16)
Next we’ll switch to rounds and build up the sides of the basket.
Round 1: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across (16 STS). Turn corner and HHDC in each row, as you would if you were adding an edging (16 STS). Turn corner and HHDC in each ST from the starting chain (16 STS). Turn corner and HHDC in each row (16 STS). Do not join. (64)
Rounds 2-6: HHDC in each ST around. (64)
Round 7: HHDC in each of the first 62 STS. SC in each of the 2 remaining STS. Join. (64)
Round 8: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join. (64)
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 9: SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Do not join. (64)
Rounds 10-18 (or until edge touches bottom of basket when folded down): SC in each ST around. (64)
SL ST into the next ST to smooth down the round. Fasten off and weave in ends, then proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas.”
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
LARGER BASKET
Yarn Used: 205 yards
Finished Size: 7.5″ wide x 3″ tall
To begin: CH23.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining chain. (22)
Rows 2-22: CH1, turn. SC across. (22)
Next we’ll switch to rounds and build up the sides of the basket.
Round 1: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across (22 STS). Turn corner and HHDC in each row, as you would if you were adding an edging (22 STS). Turn corner and HHDC in each ST from the starting chain (22 STS). Turn corner and HHDC in each row (22 STS). Do not join. (88)
Rounds 2-8: HHDC in each ST around. (88)
Round 9: HHDC in each of the first 86 STS. SC in each of the 2 remaining STS. Join. (88)
Round 10: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join. (88)
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 11: CH1. SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Do not join. (88)
Rounds 12-21 (or until edge touches bottom of basket when folded down): SC in each ST around. (88)
SL ST into the next ST to smooth down the round. Fasten off and weave in ends, then proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas.”
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Adding Plastic Canvas
Cut across your plastic canvas to make strips that are the same height as the inner layer of the basket, and as long as two sides of it. (Cut at least 4; add more for more stability.) Set your basket so that it is completely unfolded. Fold strips of canvas in half and insert along each edge, then fold the inside layer down over the canvas. Work the fabric until it all lays neat and flat.
If you want, you can sew the inner edge of the fabric to the bottom of the basket to keep everything in place. (Don’t do this if you want your basket to be machine washable.)
A visual demonstration of this process can be found in the tutorial video at the 27:35 mark.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Adding Handles (Optional)
Cut two equal-sized strips of leather (whatever size you want). Punch 4 holes in each end in a square shape, then use a small yarn needle to sew them to the sides of your basket, working though both layers of crocheted fabric and the plastic canvas in between.
You’re done!
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your baskets on social media, be sure to use hashtag #herringbonebasket and tag me @yarnandchai.design!
Awesome tutorial and instructions. I LOVE THIS! I always make something homemade as Christmas gifts for my sisters and mom. I then put it all together in a Christmas basket. This will be my something homemade and basket all in one. I cant wait to put these together this year. My family will love it. Thank you!
Thank you for making this pattern available and for the great instructions. I’m looking forward to getting started making it.
This was my first time with the herringbone stitch, and I enjoyed it. The baskets are sturdy and the plastic canvas gives them good structure. The pattern was easy to read and follow.
Is it possible that the basket can be made wide enough to hold a 8 or 9 inch casserole dish n will it withstand some heat off the dish or not? I love the idea of the square basket but would love to put it to good use using it this way also. I appreciate any help u can give me as well as how many stitches I would need to start the pattern also.
Thanks so much
Merry Kennedy
Hi, I’m trying to increase the large basket by 10 more rows, so I just added 10 to all of your stitch numbers. However after 32 rows my square is not square and is a good inch shorter as if I need more rows. Even when I count your pattern of 22 rows and 22 columns on my bigger version, it’s not square either. Is this as designed and it’s not a perfect square? Also, your large basket size with 23 starting chains didn’t measure 7.5 inches wide for me, that’s why I increased it.