When the weather starts to get cold here in Michigan, one of my favorite accessories to help beat the chill is an earwarmer. I love that I can still wear my hair piled up all messy on the top of my head — or, if it’s a good hair day, down and wavy — because a cozy earwarmer will look great either way.
This earwarmer is easy and quick. Don’t let the #3 DK weight yarn fool you; it will work up fast, and still feel light on your head. The seam is conveniently hidden underneath the button, and although I am totally ok with a necessary seam, I always get excited when I find a good hiding place for it!
You can follow along with me with this tutorial video, regardless of what size you are making! I put the pattern instructions right on screen so you can relax and go at your own pace. Be sure to subscribe, too!
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern is also available as an ad-free, printable PDF, which includes sizes toddler – adult! And if you love PDFs, you might want to check out my All Access Pass. It’s an awesome deal! (Or, scroll down for the free version!)
Finished Sizes: 17″ x 3.5″ (toddler), 18″ x 4″ (child), 20″ x 4.5″ (teen), 21″ x 4.5″ (adult)
Hook: H (5.0 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge
Yarn: Yarn Bee Sweet Delight, a #3 weight yarn, in the following amounts: 80 yds (toddler), 95 yds (child), 115 yds (teen), 120 yds (adult). Colors used in samples are Toy Elephant and Toy Elephant Marled.
Gauge: 17 HDC x 12 rows = 4″ square
You’ll also need: 7/8″ button, and a yarn needle that can fit through it
Terms and Abbreviations:
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (complete a full single crochet and a full half double crochet in the same stitch)
3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitch”)
3rd Loop Only
Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rounds, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rounds do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) To resize earwarmer, your starting chain can be any odd number.
(4) Pattern is written for toddler size with additional sizes in brackets [child, teen, adult]. So, for example, if it says “CH71 [75, 85, 89]”, the first number is for the toddler size, and the numbers in brackets are child, teen, and adult instructions, respectively. If you are working from printed instructions, it helps to circle or highlight the numbers you are following before you begin.
(5) Knowing where to place your first stitch can be tricky when working in joined rounds. Usually, it doesn’t matter as long as you’re consistent, but for this pattern, it does matter… especially from Round 4 on! So, here is an image to help you identify where to put your first stitch. Because Round 4 instructs you to skip the first stitch, you will put your SC+HDC combo in the stitch marked as the 2nd stitch (which is also easy to find thanks to the spaces created by the SC+HDC combos from Round 3).
To begin: CH71 [75, 85, 89].
Round 1: HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Bring ends together, without twisting, and join to the top of the first ST with a SL ST. (70 [74, 84, 88])
Round 2: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Join to the top of the first ST with a SL ST. (70 [74, 84, 88])
Rounds 3-14 [3-16, 3-18, 3-18]: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first ST with a SL ST. (70 [74, 84, 88])
Round 15 [17, 19, 19]: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first ST with a SL ST. (70 [74, 84, 88])
Round 16 [18, 20, 20]: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Join to the top of the first ST with a SL ST. (70 [74, 84, 88])
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for cinching. Use yarn needle and starting tail to sew the small gap between the first and last stitches of Round 1 closed, then weave in that tail only.
1. Thread the long finishing tail through your yarn needle and gently set it aside. Gather the seamed section of the headband, and fold in half so that the fold is facing you.
2. Holding on to the fold with one hand, use your other hand to pinch the upper half in half again. The top edge of the earwarmer should be facing down. Grasp the fold together with the first fold, then repeat with the bottom section. When you’re finished, you should be pinching three folds together, with both the top and bottom edges of the earwarmer facing down.
3. Run your yarn needle through all three sections of gathered material. The closer you get to the surface, the better your cinch will look; so I run mine right under just a couple strands of each fold.
4. Wrap the yarn around the underside of the cinch, then through the sections again. Do this a few times to secure the cinch, then thread the needle up through the 1st hole of the button and back down through the 2nd hole, position it on the cinch, and wrap yarn around to the underside to tie off. (If your button has four holes, complete the first two, wrap yarn around the bottom, then come back and complete the last two before tying off.) Weave in the tail.
Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #hopeearwarmer and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Stay warm out there!
nice ear warmer. thank you for the free pattern. i have made one for my officemate that soon will work abroad.
Your directions are amazing! This was so easy to make because of your guidance! I wish all patterns could be this much of a breeze! Thank you!
I love your patterns!
If I crochet it flat, do I still only chain one at the beginning of each row?
I’m making the Hope ear warmer. Where would you put a stitch marker if you wanted to use one? I like using them but am never sure where to add it. Also, as a visual learner, I just want to say thank you for your video tutorials. There excellent!
Hi Laura! Some people mark the first stitch, and some mark the last (and some mark both). I find that marking the first one helps me the most.
In YOUR ‘NOTES’ section #5 you state that in round 4 it instructs you to skip the 1st stitch. YOUR directions just state Rounds 3-14 CH1, turn, SK first ST, Sc+ HDC in nexr ST, (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Nothing says skip a ST. mine is turning out wavy and looks like it will be WAY TOO BIG for an adult head.
The instructions are there:
Rounds 3-14 CH1, turn, ****SK first ST****, Sc+ HDC in nexr ST, (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around.
Regarding the size, did you do a gauge check?
Does this have to be worked in the round? Or can I sew the ends together at the end?
You could sew the ends together at the end 🙂
This is beautiful!!! Question…… I am making the adult size. I cannot get past the 3rd round, consistently coming up with 86 stitches. I have frogged back and reworked, I have totally started over many times only to come out to 86 stitches in the third round. The video is so good and I’ve watched it over and over and still cannot figure out what I’m doing wrong.
Have thoughts for me?
Disregard. I finally got the right count. 🙂
Once the initial chain is finished, will it shrink some as I am working on it? I made 71 chains and it’s too big for my head. I’m not sure it would fit a toddler. Thanks
No, probably not. Did you do a gauge check?
Is this the same texture as the panel in your Henry blanket?
Yes 🙂 And also any of my patterns with “Comfy Squares” in their names. I love the texture 🙂