The linen (or moss, or seed, or granite) stitch has become a popular choice for baby blankets, and it’s easy to see why. A little quicker than a purely single crocheted blanket (which I also love; see here), the linen stitch still provides a solid and modern-looking fabric, safe for those little baby fingers.
The linen stitch is very basic, so it’s left up to the crocheter to decide how to spruce it up with color. I actually got the inspiration for this blanket from one of my son’s newborn socks! (What can I say? You never know when inspiration will strike.)
ABOUT THE YARN
This was my first experience with Lion Brand’s Feels Like Butta (affiliate link) yarn. It’s just as soft as they say it is; a little dense, but great for a stroller or carseat blanket for a cooler-weather baby. It doesn’t split at all, and the colors are fresh and bright.
VIDEO TUTORIAL
I’ve put together a step-by-step video tutorial for you visual learners! The instructions for the pattern are written right on the screen, so you can follow along visually while also developing your pattern-reading skills. It’s a feature I’ve gotten lots of compliments for on my videos, so it’s definitely worth the extra effort it takes to include it!
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.
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LINEN STITCH BABY BLANKET
Difficulty: Easy
Finished Size: Approx. 30” wide x 36” long (stroller blanket size)
Hook: J (6.0mm) and F (4.0mm). My favorite hooks are Clover Amour.
Yarn: Approx. 1100 yards of #4 aran weight yarn in 3 colors. Yarn used in sample is Lion Brand Feels Like Butta in Pale Grey (COLOR A, about 390 yards), White (COLOR B, about 320 yards), and Lilac (COLOR C, about 390 yards).
Gauge: With larger hook, the following pattern = 4″ square:
To begin: CH19.
Row 1: SC in 3rd CH from hook. (CH1, SK next ST, SC in next ST) across.
Rows 2-18: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), turn. SK first ST, SC in CH1 space. (CH1, SK next ST, SC in next CH1 space) across.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle
Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
BLO (back loop only)
Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) A video tutorial is available up in the post, or by clicking here.
(3) When doing your gauge check: If you have to move up or down in hook size to match gauge, be sure to move up or down the same number of millimeters for your smaller hook as well.
(4) Fasten off at each color change.
(5) Because of all of the CH1s in the linen stitch, you’re going to want to try to keep a loose tension in the body of the blanket. CHs do not have the stretch that other stitches do. Adjust your hook size if it seems the body of the blanket is getting wider or thinner than the ribbed section.
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INSTRUCTIONS
TOP RIBBING
With smaller hook and COLOR A, CH11.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (10)
Rows 2-144 (or until ribbing measures about 29-30″ long): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 8 STS. SC in final ST. (10)
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BODY (Row count restarts back to 1)
Switch to larger hook. Pay attention in your first few rows, and if they seem like they are getting wider than the strip of ribbing, downsize your hook; if they are pulling the ribbing inward, choose a larger hook.
Body, Row 1: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), do not turn. We are now working down the long edge of the ribbing. Look at the edge of the ribbing as a series of tiny peaks and valleys. Skip over the first peak and SC in the valley right after it. (CH1, SK next peak, SC in next valley) across, putting your final SC in the corner of the ribbing at the other end. (72 CH1 spaces + 72 SC)
Rows 2-154: CH2 (counts as first CH1 space), turn. SK first ST, SC in CH1 space. (CH1, SK next ST, SC in next CH1 space) across. (72 CH1 spaces + 72 SC). Use the following color pattern:
Rows 2-32 (32 rows): COLOR A
Rows 33-34 (2 rows): COLOR B
Rows 35-42 (8 rows): COLOR A
Rows 43-46 (4 rows): COLOR B
Rows 47-52 (6 rows): COLOR A
Rows 53-58 (6 rows): COLOR B
Rows 59-62 (4 rows): COLOR A
Rows 63-70 (8 rows): COLOR B
Rows 71-72 (2 rows): COLOR A
Rows 73-82 (10 rows): COLOR B
Rows 83-84 (2 rows): COLOR C
Rows 85-92 (8 rows): COLOR B
Rows 93-96 (4 rows): COLOR C
Rows 97-102 (6 rows): COLOR B
Rows 103-108 (6 rows): COLOR C
Rows 109-112 (4 rows): COLOR B
Rows 113-120 (8 rows): COLOR C
Rows 121-122 (2 rows): COLOR B
Rows 123-154 (32 rows): COLOR C
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BOTTOM RIBBING
In this section, we will be creating the bottom ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the body as we go. We’ll be referring to “Row 154”; that’s the last row of the body of the blanket we completed, and that’s what the ribbing will be attaching to. I cover this in the video tutorial for this blanket, but if you feel you need a little more in-depth help with this part, here’s another tutorial video that is specifically about this technique.
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Switch to smaller hook; CH11.
Row 1: Turn. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 9 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Row 154, the stitch on which your CH11 was built. SL ST into the 1st CH1 space from Row 154. (10, plus the two slip stitches along Row 154)
The section we just created, built on the CH11, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 154, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 9 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in next SC and next CH1 space along row 154. (10, plus the 2 SL STS along Row 154)
Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Row 154, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)
Rows 5-144: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way across Row 154.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
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Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #linenstitchbabyblanket and tag me @yarnandchai.design
Hope you enjoyed it!