This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection (including a beanie, slouch, and buttoned cowl), please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

The third pattern in the Malia CAL is a gorgeous infinity scarf! The texture in this scarf is just to die for, and the addition of the fringe gives it a casual, relaxed vibe.

VIDEO TUTORIAL

If you need a little extra help with the pattern, here is a video tutorial, and the free pattern is at the bottom of the page!

Free Printable Tags

I made some cute printable tags for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting this cowl, a tag just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. Print on cardstock for best results!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern is also available as an ad-free, printable PDF! And if you love PDFs, you might want to check out my All Access Pass. It’s an awesome deal! (Or, scroll down for the free version!)

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MALIA INFINITY SCARF

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 56″ around x 6.5″ wide

Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

Yarn: 580 yards of #4 aran weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Okie Wheat.”

Gauge:  To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.

Pattern for Gauge:
CH17.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 4 buttons (1″ – 1-1/8″)

Terms and Abbreviations:
FHDC (foundation half double crochet – see “Special Stitches”)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
BLO (back loop only)
3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

Special Stitches:

Foundation Half Double Crochet (FHDC)
This is the recommended way of beginning the pattern and is better shown than explained, so please watch the included tutorial video as a guide. There is also an optional classic chain start noted in the pattern, if you would like to do that instead.

Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

3rd Loop Only
Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) Pattern is worked as a flat piece and then secured into an infinity style with buttons.
(4) A video tutorial is available up in the post, or by clicking here.

INSTRUCTIONS

Row 1: FHDC* 204. (*Alternate start: CH205, HDC in 2^nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH.) (204)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3^rd loop of each of the next 202 STS. SC in final ST. (204)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (204)

Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 101 times. SC in final ST. (204)

Row 5: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across.

Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3^rd loop of each of the next 202 STS. SC in final ST. (204)

Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (204)

Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 101 times. SC in final ST. (204)

Row 9: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across.

Rows 10-25: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 2 more times. (204)

Row 26: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3^rd loop of each of the next 202 STS. SC in final ST. (204)

Edging (1 side only, optional): CH1, SC in same ST to round corner. Working down the short edge of the scarf, SC in each row (26). SL ST to the 2^nd corner, fasten off and weave in all ends.

Fringe: Cut about 160 9″ long strands of yarn. (I wrap mine around a 9″ cutting board.) Start at one corner and attach them in groups of 3, every 4 stitches along the entire bottom edge of the scarf.

Buttons: Lay the scarf out in front of you wrong side up and bring the short ends together, overlapping the end with the edging (if applicable) over the edge without the edging by about 1″. (Ends should now be right side facing up.) Pin it in place if desired. Use yarn and yarn needle or a sewing needle and thread to sew each button onto the edge, evenly spaced, sewing through both layers to hold the scarf together. To help with spacing, start with the top and bottom buttons and then move on to the middle two.

Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #maliascarf, and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!