This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection, please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.
Wrist warmers (or wristers, or fingerless gloves, or fingerless mitts) are a great way to keep your hands warm without taking away your ability to function (a.k.a. check your smartphone)! They’re also a great accessory to keep in your car, ready for those cold mornings on the road. I made my samples two-toned, but of course, you can crochet yours up in one solid color. Add a couple of decorative buttons to complete the look.
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VIDEO TUTORIAL
If you need a little extra help with any of the stitches in the pattern, I created a video tutorial for previous Malia patterns in which I crocheted up a swatch of the pattern. You might find it useful to scan through the tutorial if you find yourself stuck at any point!
Free Printable Tags
I made some cute printable labels for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting these wrist warmers, a label just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. Print on cardstock for best results!
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern is also available as an ad-free, printable PDF! And if you love PDFs, you might want to check out my All Access Pass. It’s an awesome deal! (Or, scroll down for the free version!)
MALIA WRIST WARMERS
Difficulty: Easyish
Finished Sizes: 3.5″ wide x 7″ tall
Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge, as well as one size smaller (in my case, an H (5mm))
Yarn: 120 yards (total for a pair of wrist warmers) of #4 aran weight. If you choose to do your wrist warmers two-toned like I did, you’ll need about 80 yards of COLOR A for the main part of the design, and 40 yards of COLOR B for the ribbing. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Red Roads” and “Sugared Oats”.
Gauge: The gauge for all Malia patterns is a 16 stitch x 16 row swatch, but because this particular pattern is also based on 16 stitches, it makes more sense to simply start following the pattern. So, to make sure your gauge is on the right track, after you’ve finished the first 8 rows, measure them; they should measure 2″. (The height should be about 4″.) Adjust your hook accordingly and begin again if necessary.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 4 small buttons
Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
BLO (back loop only)
3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)
Special Stitches:
Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)
3rd Loop Only
Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.
Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) A video tutorial for the stitch pattern is available up in the post, or by clicking here.
INSTRUCTIONS (MAKE 2)
To begin: With COLOR A and larger hook, CH17.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
Row 2: Ch1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
Row 4: Ch1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
Row 5 (thumb hole): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 3 STS. Ch7; SK 7 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 4 STS. SC in final ST. (7 + CH7)
Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 5 STS. SC in each of the 7 CHs. SC in each of the remaining 4 STS. (16)
Row 7: Ch1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
Row 8: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
Row 10: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
Row 11: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
Row 12: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
Row 13: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
Row 14: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
Row 15: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
Row 16: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
Rows 17-24: Repeat Rows 9-16.
At this point, you should put your thumb in the thumb hole and make sure that the fabric can stretch around your palm. It should be snug. If it is too small, repeat Rows 9-12 to add another inch of width.
Row 25: CH1, do NOT turn. SC in same ST again to round corner. Continue to SC across the top edge of the wrist warmer, putting 3SC in each 4-row section. (I visualize each “section” as being the area between each 3rd loop row, so I put an SC directly to the left of the 3rd loop row, one on the bean stitch row, and one directly to the right of the next 3rd loop row, then repeat that sequence all the way across.) Bring the sides together (right side out) and join to the top of the 1st SC with a SL ST. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.
Seaming the Main Section
Turn inside out. Seam the edges together, using your yarn needle to go under the 3rd loop of the HDC row and across to the corresponding stitch on the other side. This will create a row of raised top loops along your seam, ensuring that it will blend in with the rest of the similar rows. (This technique is demonstrated on the video tutorial for the Malia Beanie + Slouch at the 42:00 mark.) Fasten off and weave in both ends.
Main Section, Bottom Edging
Turn right-side out. Turn upside down and reattach COLOR A at the bottom, lined up with the thumb hole, and CH1. SC in each row around. (Notice we aren’t doing 3SC in each 4-row section like we did before; this time, each row gets its own SC.) You should end up with 24SC (4 per section), but one more or less won’t make much of a difference. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC.
Change to COLOR B; fasten off COLOR A.
CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. In the following instructions, this round will be referred to as the “Base Round”.
Ribbing Section
(Note: If you need extra help on this part, please watch this video tutorial on how to add ribbing to the bottom of a crochet project.)
Switch to smaller hook. CH11.
Row 1: SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 9 chains. SL ST into the first SC from the Base Round, the stitch on which your CH11 was built. SL ST into the next SC from the Base Round. (10, plus the two slip stitches along the Base Round)
The section we just created, built on the CH11, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in the Base Round, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 9 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 empty STS of the Base Round. (10, plus the 2 SL STS along the Base Round)
Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in the Base Round, SC in BLO of each of the first 9 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (10)
Rows 5-24: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along the Base Round.
Fasten off and use your tail to sew together the first and last rows of the ribbing, then weave in your ends.
Thumb Edging
Reattach COLOR A somewhere on the edge of the thumb hole; CH1. SC evenly around the opening. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Buttons
Using your yarn needle and COLOR B, or a needle and thread, attach two small buttons to the ribbing toward the outer edge of each wrist warmer.
Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #maliawristwarmers and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!
Thank you for the pattern. Can’t wait to start.
How do I make this a more petite size? So far I have eliminated rows 17-24 and it is still a bit big. Will it shrink if I use wool or alpaca? Should I just end with a HDC on my lst row so that I can continue to follow your directions? Thanks!
meant to say *last
Love all of your designs, so well written. Just did this one today. Next set will be adjusted a bit smaller for a petite friend. Hoping a smaller hook works. Looking forward to more wonderful designs.
I am really loving the look of these but I am having a bit of trouble with the main section starting to twist/slant. I am using the PDF pattern and noticed that it is different from the pattern on this webpage. Rows 11 and 15 of LBS seem to alternate whether the skip stitch is before or after the LBS on this webpage, but on the PDF pattern both rows are the same. Could this difference be causing the twisting?
I’d love to whip some of these up, they’re awesome!! Do you think “I Love This Yarn” would work well for them? I need to bust through some of my stash before I buy more lol
I’ve used ILTY for these and they turned out great. Just watch your gauge.
Your patterns are beautiful! I’m typing with cold hands now, and looking forward to trying out this pattern.
How would you go about making these into actually mittens
Because this pattern is worked from side to side it’s not really conducive to creating a full mitten without majorly reworking it.
I discovered this website a few weeks ago, and I was thrilled! These wrist warmers are so fun and fast, and the matching hat patterns are lovely too! I have already told several of my friends about this site and will continue to do so when the opportunity arises. Thanks so much for making this pattern available for free!
Rebecca you are amazing! Your patterns are SPOT ON- not a missed step one. I love your style as well, so up to date! You really have a talent girl friend.
There are so many patterns out there that are written so poorly that make me scream out loud, which is so maddening and sad. I’ve made quite a few of your items and haven’t been disappointed yet.
I am going to purchase your ad free patterns after the holidays to treat myself.
Just wanted to thank you and say hello,
Very sincerely,
Kara Lakies
Somehow I lost my PDF, does anyone know where they go! Frustrating…looked in iBooks not there….Help!
Hi Anita, from where did you purchase the ad-free PDF – Etsy or my store?
Love your work,, I will never be as talented…..is this now a free pattern because I had to pay for it thru pay pal.., also the pattern I got says to ch 17, next ch 1 and turn……if I chain 1 more it will be 18 stitches and I cannot turn on just the chains….can you help please…Anita
I love if you translate your lovely words in Spanish
I would if I could speak it 🙂
I have a question about the wrist warmer pattern. Row 11 and row 15 are the same and those are in the repeats. Should one of them be like row 7? Row 7 is the only time you start with LBS and then skip. All the other patterns I’ve done (slouchy and boot cuffs so far) had that alternating. I’ve done one wrist warmer and it is twisted a little bit and I’m wondering if that is why. TIA
Hi Crista, good catch! I’ve updated the pattern. It shouldn’t be twisting your wrist warmers, though. I’m not sure what would be causing that.
Thank you, these are super cute. Quick and fast. will make a few of these this holiday season.