Ever since I designed my very first garment pattern last winter, I’ve been itching to get started on a new wearable. I love how Marsali turned out; she’s soft, simple, and feminine, and she’ll accompany you through at least 3 seasons:
- ๐ In fall, pair her with jeans or leggings and tall boots
- โ๏ธ In winter, put a long-sleeved white tee underneath for extra coziness
- ๐ท In spring, layer her over a simple tank top
About the Yarn
I worked up the sample in Lion Brand Coboo (affiliate link), which is a #3 weight blend: 51% cotton, and 49% rayon from bamboo. When I was newer to crochet I avoided cotton because my first experience with it was the kitchen cottons that are sold at almost all craft stores, and I couldn’t fathom how anyone would make garments with it. I had no idea the huge range of cotton that was actually available in the yarn world… I’m so glad I do now!
Coboo was awesome to work with. It can be a little splitty, but that doesn’t bother me (and it actually helps the drape of the finished pattern). And it’s so soft! I am really picky about what yarn touches my skin, and I would love to wrap myself in a big soft blanket of Coboo.
Note: If you’re someone who has trouble with “splitty” yarns, I recommend switching up your hook. My Clover Amour works well with this yarn, and although I had to be a little more conscious of grabbing all of the strands, I didn’t find Coboo unmanageable in the least. And the finished fabric is worth it. Look at that drape!
About to do some yarn shopping? Click here to use my affiliate link for Lion Brand Coboo. (When you purchase from myย affiliate links at no extra cost to you, I get a little commission… which helps me to continue putting out free patterns!)
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This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF. Below are two options: my popular All Access Pass, and the individual PDF pattern. Click the image to learn more about each option.
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Marsali Summer Top
View on Ravelry
Difficulty: Easy
Finished Size: Pattern is written for sizes XS โ 5XL (see chart for specific measurements). Top has an oversized fit, with 10-12โณ positive ease.
Yarn:ย I used Coboo from Lion Brandย (affiliate link), a super soft #3 DK weight cotton/rayon blend, in the color “Silver”. The table below will tell you how much yarn you will need for your size.ย Please note that the number of skeins required assumes an accurate gauge check and is specific to Lion Brand Coboo; if you use a different yarn, youโll need to go by yardage when deciding how much to purchase.
Hook(s): 4.5mm, or whichever hook you need to get an accurate gauge check. For the sleeves, you will also need a hook that is .5mm larger (I used a 5.0mm).
Gauge: 17 STS x 16 rows = 4″ square (done in the SC+HDC stitch).
::: How to Check Your Gauge For the Marsali Top :::
With 4.5mm hook and chosen yarn, follow this pattern:
To begin: CH23.
Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from hook. (SK next CH, SC+HDC in next CH) 10 times. SC in final CH. (22)
Rows 2-20: CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 10 times. SC in final ST. (22)
Fasten off.
Lay your gauge fabric on a flat surface and measure the width of 17 stitches, as well as the height of 16 rows. If each come to 4″, you are good to go. If less than 4″, use a larger hook and try again; if more than 4″, use a smaller hook. 
If you can get one measurement correct but not the other, go with the hook size that gets you the correct number of stitches; you can easily adjust the height of the pattern by adding or removing rows.
Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (do a full SC and full HDC in the same stitch)
BLO (back loop only)
Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Measurements can be easily adjusted. For width, simply keep an even-numbered stitch count in your rows, and for height, add or subtract an even number of rows of the SC+HDC stitch in the body of the pattern. Just be sure that whatever you do for the front panel, you do for the back panel as well.
(3) Pattern is written for sizes XS-5XL, with counts for sizes S-5XL written in parentheses. Example: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
(4) “Right” side of fabric is the side where the braid at the top and bottom of the pattern is visible.
(5) Pattern is worked from the bottom up.
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Instructions
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PANELS (MAKE 2)
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The front and back panels, which are identical, consist of 3 parts: the bottom ribbing, the body, and the top ribbing. These 3 parts are worked as one piece, so don’t fasten off until instructed.
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Part 1: Bottom Ribbing
The bottom of Marsali is a classic ribbed edge.
To Begin: With 4.5mm hook, CH9.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (8)
Rows 2-86 (94, 102, 110, 120, 128, 136, 144, 154): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in final ST. (8)
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Part 2: Body
Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. Working down the long edge of the ribbing, HDC in each row end (each peak and each valley). (86 [94, 102, 110, 120, 128, 136, 144, 154])
Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 84 (92, 100, 108, 118, 126, 134, 142, 152) STS. SC in final ST. (86 [94, 102, 110, 120, 128, 136, 144, 154])
Rows 3-74 (74, 74, 78, 78, 78, 82, 82, 82): CH1, turn. HDC in first ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across, until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. (86 [94, 102, 110, 120, 128, 136, 144, 154])
Row 75 (75, 75, 79, 79, 79, 83, 83, 83): CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (86 [94, 102, 110, 120, 128, 136, 144, 154])
Row 76 (76, 76, 80, 80, 80, 84, 84, 84): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 84 (92, 100, 108, 118, 126, 134, 142, 152) STS. SC in final ST. (86 [94, 102, 110, 120, 128, 136, 144, 154])
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Part 3: Top Ribbing
In this section, we will be creating the top ribbing by making vertical ribs and attaching them with slip stitches to the last row of the body as we go. If you feel you need a little more in-depth help with this part, hereโs a tutorial video that is specifically about this technique.
Top Ribbing, Row 1: CH9, turn. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 7 chains. SL ST into the first SC from final row of Part 2, the stitch on which your CH9 was built. SL ST into the next SC from the final row of Part 2. (8, plus the two slip stitches along the final row of Part 2)
The section we just created, built on the CH9, will hereafter be referred to as the โribbing.โ
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in the final row of Part 2, SC in first ST of the ribbing. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. SL ST in each of the next 2 unworked STS along the final row of Part 2. (8, plus the 2 SL STS along the final row of Part 2)
Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in the final row of Part 2, SC in first ST of the ribbing. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)
Rows 5-86 (94, 102, 110, 120, 128, 136, 144, 154): Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way across the final row of Part 2. (8)
Fasten off and weave in all ends. Block both panels if desired.
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SEAMING THE SIDES
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Lay panels on top of each other on a flat surface, wrong sides together, right sides facing out. Using the recommendations for your size in the chart below, measure the suggested number of inches down both sides and mark with a stitch marker. Put your stitch marker through both panels and be sure to mark the same row on both sides, and both panels.
Starting at the bottom, just above where the ribbing ends and working upward, seam edges of one side using the Mattress Stitch (being careful to keep the rows lined up as you go). Seam until you reach your stitch marker, then fasten off and weave in ends on the inside of the top. Do the same for the other side.
(A note on seaming: Because we are seaming the sides of the work, there are no top loops to work into. We just have to do our best; and the more you do, the more youโll become familiar with the pattern of the yarn along the edges, helping you to stay consistent. Just keep those rows lined up. Youโll be ok! If you need a little help on Mattress Stitch technique, here’s a tutorial video from fellow designer Edie Eckman.)
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ADDING RIBBING TO THE ARM HOLES
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Important: Follow all arm hole instructions with a hook that is .5mm larger than you used for the body. As you SC around the first arm hole, if your fabric starts to pucker, try going another .5mm larger still.
Decide which side is going to be the front panel and which will be the back panel (right now they are identical). Mark the front panel with a stitch marker for easy reference.
RIGHT SIDE ARM HOLE
Remove the stitch marker on the right arm hole (as if you were wearing it) and join your yarn at that spot on the front panel. SC up the front edge of the arm hole, putting one SC in each row end. (Tip: the little “squares” in the fabric are each comprised of two rows each.)
When you get to the ribbing at the top, lay the ribbing from the front panel over the ribbing from the back panel…
…and SC through both panels along the edge of the ribbing.
Continue to SC down the back edge of the arm hole until you reach the seam. Count your SCs; if you have an odd number, add or subtract one to make it even. Then, follow this pattern to add ribbing all around the armhole:
Row 1: CH9, turn. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 7 chains. SL ST into the first SC from arm hole edging, the stitch on which your CH9 was built. SL ST into the next SC from the edging. (8, plus the two slip stitches along the arm hole edging)
The section we just created, built on the CH9, will hereafter be referred to as the โribbing.โ
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in the edging row, SC in first ST of the ribbing. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. SL ST in each of the next 2 unworked STS along the edging. (8, plus the 2 SL STS along the arm hole edging)
Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in the edging, SC in first ST of the ribbing. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)
Rows 5-?: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way around the arm hole. (8)
Here is an in-progress illustration of adding the ribbing:
Fasten off, leaving a 12″ tail for seaming.
Overlap ribbed edges as shown (front panel over back panel) and use finishing tail to sew them in place as marked.
Weave in ends.
LEFT SIDE ARM HOLE
Remove the stitch marker on the left arm hole (as if you were wearing it) and join your yarn at that spot on the back panel. SC up the back edge of the arm hole, putting one SC in each row end. (Tip: the little “squares” in the fabric are each comprised of two rows each.)
When you get to the ribbing at the top, lay the ribbing from the front panel over the ribbing from the back panel…
… and SC through both panels along the edge of the ribbing.
Continue to SC down the front edge of the arm hole until you reach the seam. Then, follow the same ribbing pattern you did for the right arm hole to add ribbing all the way around the left arm hole.
Next, overlap ribbed edges as shown (front panel over back panel) and use finishing tail to sew them in place as marked.
Weave in ends.
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SECURING THE SHOULDERS
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You’ll need to add a little bit of seaming at the shoulders so that your beautiful top stays put!
Lay garment flat, front side up. Using the size chart in the illustration below, measure the instructed number of inches in from each edge (NOT counting the sleeves) and place a stitch marker on the front panel in those two locations at the top of your garment.
Beginning on either side, and holding the front panel ribbing over the back panel ribbing (lined up with the braid on the back panel, but not covering it), use yarn and a yarn needle to sew the pieces together from the edge of the garment to the stitch marker, then across the ribbing on one side (as shown by the red lines in the photo). Make sure that your final stitch goes all the way over the edge of the top layer of fabric to hold it down; this will ensure that it won’t stick up when stretched over your shoulders.
Fasten off and weave in ends on inside of garment. Repeat for the other shoulder.
Don’t forget to share your finished project!
Share it on FB, in our FB group, in other groups, on Instagram… wherever you want to show if off! Be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see it, too!
Hi, I need help with gauge, sizing. I am working on the Marsali sweater, size small. First I did the gauge swatch and it was correct on the width but too long (4 by almost 5), so I knew I would have to adjust for the length. I started on the sweater, did the ribbing and the width only came to 17 3/16. I am using Lion Brand Truboo yarn, the local stores did not have Cooboo, and I have used Truboo before. I am using a 4.5mm crochet hook. I still consider myself a new crocheter, been at it less than a year. Also just joined as a passholder, :).
Should I go ahead and crochet enough stitches to get to 22″ across? OR?
THANK YOU!
This is just what I was looking for to wear on cooler days in a typically humid climate. This vest is just my style,,,simply elegant! I’m going to Joann’s or Michaels for the Cobo today. I can’t weit to get started. I’ll let you now how it came out. Happy Crocheting!
* typo…Wait
Good pattern and good directions. Unfortunately I could not get past the gauge patch. I am definitely not a beginner but I have never worked with coboo before and I never will. I the wool is absolutely beautiful with a lovely drape eco friendly (plus) and so soft. But it is a beast to work with. If you can get the stitches right on the first try I could see the wool being less difficult but I could not do it. If youโre a beginner at crochet this wool will make you crazy. I wish I could continue but alas I can not for my sanity. Thanks for a lovely pattern.
I have been looking for something special to make for a friend who has cancer. Didn’t want to do the same old thing but something different. I have found it here! Also going to be making one for her mom as well and I can’t wait to see their faces when they see the sweaters next month. Thank you so much for sharing this.
With gauge adjustment could this be made in fingering weight yarn?
Can Lion Brand Heartland or Lion Brand Jeans yarn be used? Any change as far as hook size, stitch count, etc.?
Iโve been a knitter for 12 years, never really liked the look of crochet, until I found your patterns!
Iโm making this top, the small size, itโs 22 inches across but man it looks huge! Iโm going to trust the process but do you find that tops typically look deceivingly large when they are working up?
thank you so much. This is just perfect most of the year. I love it.
Great diagrams!! Did you make those?? They are super.
Laura
Thank you! I did! ๐
Hello Rebecca
Using 24/7 cotton yarn Do you think it will give enough drape to pattern or could it be to stiff
debbieg@mrtc.com
24/7 is a #4 cotton, whereas Coboo is a #3, so you would probably have trouble getting gauge without it getting too stiff. I don’t think I would use 24/7 for a garment anyway though; not soft enough.
Beautiful!! Quick question…Rebecca do you block your work before determining your guage? I know it’s got always necessary with acrylic yarn, which you typically use, but since this was cotton I wanted to ask.
I don’t, but I’m pretty lazy about blocking. I think you should do whatever you typically would. I found the Coboo to work up and lay beautifully, so I wasn’t too concerned. I did block my pieces before seaming but I could’ve gotten away with not doing so.
Is there a name for the pattern stitches? Specifically, what the sc and hdc in the same stich is called? I’m asking bc I want to do some increase stitches on the body section. (Think maternity top). Looking to find a video on how to do increases and decreases for this pattern. Thank you!
Jen
This is just so gorgeous!! One question though. Do you block your swatches before measuring. I come from a knitting background and this is common practice for garments but doesn’t always seem to be so with crocheted, so I thought I’d ask. Thanks so much for your beautiful patterns!
Thank you so much for all the patterns you do and give to us! I love your work and appreciate you! I understand the patterns that you write and the looks are amazing. I know that this is a lot of work and your heart has to be HUGE with love for others to give out these patterns. I do not know what I would do without you as I cannot afford to purchase patterns, I am 76 so of course unfortunately have little money. No I am not telling you this for sympathy just so you understand the millions of people out there that help!!!!!! Hugs, June
I love the coboo yarn soooooo much. For the afiliate link – does it still count for you I we choose a different color? I LOVE ALL your paterrns and want to be sure I support ๐ I’m still working on the Eva cardigan and its coming along – I can’t wait to show you when its done ๐
Cheers
Hi Destiny! How sweet of you to ask… yes, it still counts ๐
This is very beautiful, so stylish and so wearable all year round. Rebecca would you consider doing a little tutorial on youtube to go with this. I am a newbie crocheter and would appreciate it so much. Thank you for sharing x
Hi Jacqueline! I’m thinking about it. ๐
I just learned about the 3rd loop as well….pushes forward the V of the usual loop.. if u just pull the normal loops of the v toward you, you see another loop going diagnally across the back…this is the 3rd loop. Nicki at Nicki crochet has a wonderful You tube video of it. Have fun with it:) Bev
Beautifully written pattern:)
Can you tell me what sc into the 3rd loop means?? I have never heard of that before and I have been crocheting for 60 years.
Hi Anne! It has also been called the Camel Stitch. Here is a really, reeeeeaaaaally old photo tutorial I once did on it: https://yarnandchai.com/tutorial-ribbed-half-double-crochet-stitch-ribhdc/. ๐
I started on it today and am really liking this Coboo yarn. I wasn’t crazy about it last year when I was making pumpkins but I followed your advice and got myself a Clover hook and it just glides through. Great choice and really nice pattern! Can’t wait to see the finished result!
What a beautiful classic look! Thank you for a great design, well written pattern (as always :D), and just for being.
Wishing you a long and rewarding journey ahead.
Carol B
Adorable and looks so comfortable! Thanks for sharing with us!!!
I can’t wait to try this pattern! Do you think you will make a video to accompany the pattern? I sometimes get stuck, and videos help so much!