I am so excited about this pattern! I am totally in love with the effect on the outside of these baskets. I just feel like the finished product is so unique and I love how the two different yarn colors come together to form what reminds me of a piece of mosaic art. And the best part is, it’s so easy to do!
Choosing Your Yarn
The first thing you need to do is decide what yarns to use. I highly recommend starting with a neutral-colored bulky yarn, such as white, ivory, or gray. I used Bernat Maker Home Dec in “Cream” as the base for my baskets in the sample photos. Next, you need to choose a worsted weight yarn that will work well with your base color… and this is where you get to go a little crazy, because there are so many options! In the main photo above, I used one of my favorite colorways, Urban Chic in “Juneberry Breeze”. In the baskets pictured below, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in Aqua Blue Gradient:
And here it is in the medium size with Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton in “Pink/Teal/Orange” (that’s one colorway):
If you go with a color-changing yarn like I did, make sure the color changes aren’t toooooooo long. I love a nice gradual change, but as you can see on the main photos (with the Aqua Blue Gradient yarn), the yarn didn’t really change throughout the entire large-sized basket. I actually had to pull out quite a bit of yarn to get to a significant color change so that the smaller matching baskets wouldn’t be exactly the same.
About Those Cute Leather Tags
Those adorable tags on my baskets aren’t actually leather at all – they’re cork! I had mine printed by All This Wood (affiliate link). They always do a great job for me. If you purchase tags of your own through this link, you won’t pay any extra, but I’ll get a small percentage of the sale. My affiliate links are just one of the ways I am able to keep releasing free patterns, so I am always incredibly appreciative of anyone who uses them!
Video Tutorial
As simple as this pattern really is, I knew as I was typing it up that it wasn’t going to sound as simple on the page. Sometimes it’s easier to just watch someone else make it, so I’ve put together a video tutorial to assist you throughout. And like all Yarn + Chai tutorials, the pattern is written in full right on the screen so that you can follow along. I get tons of compliments about this tutorial feature, so it’s definitely worth the extra effort it takes to include it!
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF. Below are three options: my popular All Access Pass, the individual PDF pattern, and a Basket Bundle (if you love baskets, it’s a great deal!). Click the image to learn more about each option.
MOSAIC BASKET
Difficulty: Easy
Yarn: I used Bernat Maker Home Dec (a #5 bulky weight cotton/nylon blend) in “Cream”, and Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn (a #4 worsted weight acrylic) in “Aqua Blue”. Yarn amounts are listed with individual pattern sizes.
Hooks: H (5.0mm) and G (4.25mm)
Gauge: Your first 5 rounds should measure 2.5″ across.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker, plastic canvas
Terms and Abbreviations:
MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC Spike Stitch (see Special Stitches, below)
3rd Loop (see Special Stitches, below)
Special Stitches:
SC Spike Stitch: Instead of inserting your hook into the top loops of the stitch, insert them into its base, then complete an SC. This will wrap your SCs over the top of the SCs from the previous round.
SL ST Spike Stitch: Follow instructions for SC Spike Stitch, but instead of completing an SC, complete a SL ST.
3rd Loop: Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. For this pattern the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing away from you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, reach over the two top loops and insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the right side of the pattern. Also called Camel Stitch or RibHDC.
Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) IMPORTANT: Most of this pattern is worked seamlessly, but a small portion is worked in joined rounds. Pay attention, and only join, chain and/or turn when specifically instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds when working seamlessly.
(3) The finished size of each basket is listed on its individual pattern.
(4) Because we utilize the SC Spike Stitch for entire rounds throughout the pattern, we will be referring to those rounds as an extension of the SC rounds they are being worked into. For example, if Round 15 is a round of SC, then the very next round which places spike stitches on top of those SCs will be referred to as Round 15B. This just makes for easier counting.
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SMALL BASKET
Yardage: 50 yards bulky, 20 yards worsted or DK
Finished Size: 3.5″ wide x 2.25″ tall
To Begin: With larger hook and bulky yarn, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 6SC in MC. (6)
Round 2: 2SC in each ST around. (12)
Round 3: (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (18)
Round 4: (SC in next ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (24)
Round 5: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (30)
Round 6: (SC in each of the next 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)
Round 7: SC in each ST around. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (36)
Round 7B: Insert hook into top loops of next ST; attach worsted weight yarn and CH1; SC in same ST. SC Spike Stitch into next ST and each remaining ST. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (36)
Round 8: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each ST around (you’re working in the top loops of the SC Spike Stitches from the previous round). Remove hook. (36)
Round 8B: Reinsert hook into loop from worsted yarn. SC Spike Stitch in each ST around. Remove hook. (36)
Rounds 9-11B: Repeat Rounds 8-8B. (36)
Round 12: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each of the next 34 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. Remove hook. (36)
Round 12B: Reinsert hook into loop from worsted yarn. SC Spike Stitch into each of the next 34 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST Spike Stitch into each of the remaining 2 STS. Remove hook. (36)
Fasten off thinner yarn – you won’t need it anymore.
Round 13: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. Join with a SL ST to the next ST (the first ST of the previous round). CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first HDC. (36)
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 14: CH1. SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Do not join. (36)
Rounds 15-21: SC in each ST around. (36)
Round 22: SC in each of the next 34 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. (36)
Fasten off and weave in ends. Proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas” (after instructions for large basket).
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MEDIUM BASKET
Yardage: 95 yards bulky, 40 yards worsted or DK
Finished Size: 5″ wide x 2.75″ tall
To Begin: With larger hook and bulky yarn, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 6SC in MC. (6)
Round 2: 2SC in each ST around. (12)
Round 3: (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (18)
Round 4: (SC in next ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (24)
Round 5: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (30)
Round 6: (SC in each of the next 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)
Round 7: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (42)
Round 8: (SC in each of the next 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (48)
Round 9: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (54)
Round 10: SC in each ST around. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (54)
Round 10B: Insert hook into top loops of next ST; attach worsted weight yarn and CH1; SC in same ST. SC Spike Stitch into next ST and each remaining ST. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (54)
Round 11: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each ST around (you’re working in the top loops of the SC Spike Stitches from the previous round). Remove hook. (54)
Round 11B: Reinsert hook into loop from worsted yarn. SC Spike Stitch in each ST around. Remove hook. (54)
Rounds 12-16B: Repeat Rounds 11-11B. (54)
Round 17: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each of the next 52 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. Remove hook. (54)
Round 17B: Reinsert hook into loop from worsted yarn. SC Spike Stitch into each of the next 52 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST Spike Stitch into each of the remaining 2 STS. Remove hook. (54)
Fasten off worsted yarn – you won’t need it anymore.
Round 18: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. Join with a SL ST to the next ST (the first ST of the previous round). CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first HDC. (54)
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 19: CH1. SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Do not join. (54)
Rounds 20-29: SC in each ST around. (54)
Round 30: SC in each of the next 52 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. (54)
Fasten off and weave in ends. Proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas” (after instructions for large basket).
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LARGE BASKET
Yardage: 145 yards bulky, 60 yards worsted or DK
Finished Size: 6.5″ wide x 3″ tall
To Begin: With larger hook and bulky yarn, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 6SC in MC. (6)
Round 2: 2SC in each ST around. (12)
Round 3: (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (18)
Round 4: (SC in next ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (24)
Round 5: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (30)
Round 6: (SC in each of the next 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)
Round 7: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (42)
Round 8: (SC in each of the next 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (48)
Round 9: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (54)
Round 10: (SC in each of the next 4 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (60)
Round 11: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around. (66)
Round 12: (SC in each of the next 5 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (72)
Round 13: SC in each ST around. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (72)
Round 13B: Insert hook into top loops of next ST; attach worsted weight yarn and CH1; SC in same ST. SC Spike Stitch into next ST and each remaining ST. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (72)
Round 14: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each ST around (you’re working in the top loops of the SC Spike Stitches from the previous round). Remove hook. (72)
Round 14B: Reinsert hook into loop from worsted yarn. SC Spike Stitch in each ST around. Remove hook. (72)
Rounds 15-21B: Repeat Rounds 14-14B. (72)
Round 22: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each of the next 70 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. Remove hook. (72)
Round 22-B: Reinsert hook into loop from worsted yarn. SC Spike Stitch into each of the next 70 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST Spike Stitch into each of the remaining 2 STS. Remove hook. (72)
Fasten off worsted yarn – you won’t need it anymore.
Round 23: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. Join with a SL ST to the next ST (the first ST of the previous round). CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first HDC. (72)
Switch to smaller hook.
Round 24: CH1. SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Do not join. (72)
Rounds 25-36: SC in each ST around. (72)
Round 37: SC in each of the next 70 STS (2 STS remain). SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. (72)
Fasten off and weave in ends. Proceed to “Adding Plastic Canvas”.
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Adding Plastic Canvas
Cut across your plastic canvas to make strips that are the same height as the inner layer of the basket. Set your basket so that it is completely unfolded. Roll up a strip of canvas and insert it into the bottom of the basket, allowing it to expand up against the walls of the basket. Continue adding as many layers as you want to make it as stiff as you want. Fold the inside layer down over the canvas. Work the fabric until it all lays neat and flat.
You’re done!
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your baskets on social media, be sure to use hashtag #ycmosaicbasket and tag me @yarnandchai.design!
I just made your awesome mosaic baskets as Easter baskets for my girls! They loved them and wanted you to know.
I put a succulent in the littlest basket for an extra treat.
I made a few extra of the smallest size and filled them with jelly beans for friends at the nursing home. I knew they would appreciate the efforts behind a crocheted gift.
Thanks for sharing your beautiful baskets with us.
Hi Rebecca,
I think that your patterns are genius! They all look so smart and professional. You have such a great way combining yarns with patterns. I am currently making some of your nesting baskets and enjoying them immensely. I just watched the video for the mosaic baskets. I am wondering why on the nesting baskets you join with a slip stitch after each round (with the bigger hook) and on the mosaic baskets, you do continuous rounds. Also, on your plastic canvas video, it looks like inside the basket, the bottom curves into the basket. On my nesting baskets, the inside just meets the bottom of the basket. Should the inside curve into the basket a little? Thank you for all that you do. I think that you are a fabulous crocheted, designer and teacher. BTW, I am a very happy Pass-Holder.
Best regards,
Lita
Hi Lila! Sometimes I have really specific reasons for doing things a certain way, and sometimes, it’s more a matter of learning from one pattern and improving on the next. In this case, it’s the latter. 🙂 Either basket can be done either way, but the nesting baskets came out first, and when I went to design the Mosaic baskets, I decided there wasn’t any good reason to not do a seamless base. (I also used the smooth circle increase method in the Mosaic baskets, but not in the nesting baskets, for the same reason.) I just like to try things different ways and see how they work 🙂
Regarding the inside, I do like for it to touch the bottom of the basket and even curve in a bit because that keeps the plastic canvas in place. But it really comes down to how you feel about it once you get to that point in the pattern; if you think an extra round would keep it more in place, you can add one (or more). Hope that helps!