The Mosaic stitch pattern (that’s what I call it, but it’s really just a combination of single crochets and spike stitches) has been so fun to design with. It started with the Mosaic Baskets and soon became a Floor Pouf and a Bucket Bag, too. It’s one of those patterns that produces a fabric that looks good in so many different forms.

My latest addition to the Mosaic collection is the Mosaic Potholder (or trivet, or hotpad, depending on what you call it). I used all cotton (because heat melts acrylic), and stuck with my formula of light background + dark, thinner mosaic to produce this beautiful kitchen helper that, at least in my opinion, looks like it could hang out on the shelves at Target next to all the other farmhouse-chic decor.

I’m way too time-starved to make more than one of anything these days, but I can just imagine how beautiful a set of two or three of these, in different complimentary colors, would look in my kitchen. And what a great gift idea for a new bride or a new homeowner!

Speaking of being time-starved, this pattern probably deserves a video tutorial, but it’s just not going to happen at this point. If this is your first experience with a Mosaic pattern, you might want to consider grabbing some scrap yarn and completing a small Mosaic Basket using this video tutorial. It’s a quick project and it will teach you everything you need to know and clear up any confusion that you may have, especially if you’re a visual learner like me.

Also, off topic, but does anyone else have a kitty who assumes everything you make is for him? If I leave anything out, there is a 120% chance I will walk back in the room and he will be snuggled up with it.

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Mosaic Potholder

View on Ravelry

Difficulty: Easyish

Finished Size: 7.75″ x 7.75″

Hook: E (3.50 mm)

Yarn: For COLOR A, approx. 150 yards of #4 worsted weight cotton (I used I Love This Cotton in “Ivory”). For COLOR B, approx. 150 yards of #10 cotton thread (I used Artiste in “Deep Ocean”).

Gauge: 19SC = 4″ in length. Stitch height does not matter for this pattern.

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Terms and Abbreviations:

ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
Spike Stitch (see Special Stitches, below)

Special Stitches:

SC Spike Stitch: Instead of inserting your hook into the top loops of the stitch, insert them into its base, then complete an SC. This will wrap your SCs over the top of the SCs from the previous round.

SL ST Spike Stitch: Follow instructions for SC Spike Stitch, but instead of completing an SC, complete a SL ST.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CHs do not count as a stitch.
(3) There is no stitch multiple for this pattern. If you want to make it larger or smaller, add or subtract chains at the beginning and repeat rounds as many times as necessary for the height you want.
(4) Because we utilize the SC Spike Stitch for entire rounds throughout the pattern, we will be referring to those rounds as an extension of the SC rounds they are being worked into. For example, if Round 1 is a round of SC, then the very next round which places spike stitches on top of those SCs will be referred to as Round 1B. This just makes for easier counting.

INSTRUCTIONS

To Begin: With COLOR A, CH35.

Round 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Working down the opposite side of the chain, SC across. (You have now worked in both sides of each chain.) Do not join. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (68)

Round 1B: Insert hook into top loops of the first ST of Round 1; attach COLOR B and CH1, then SC SPIKE ST in same ST. SC SPIKE STITCH into next ST and each ST around. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (68)

Round 2: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A. SC in each ST around (you’re working in the top loops of the SC SPIKE STS from the previous round). Remove hook. (68)

Round 2B: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. SC SPIKE ST in each ST around. Remove hook. (68)

Take a quick moment to weave in your starting tails, because it will be much harder to do so the further into the pattern you get. Then…

Repeat Rounds 2 and 2B until potholder measures about 7.5″ tall.

Lay your potholder flat and notice that your starting ST for the last round has moved slightly away from the edge of the potholder (see first image below). This is normal and has to do with the anatomy of a stitch and the fact that we aren’t turning our rounds, but that’s a lesson for another day. For now, to get us back to the edge where we need to be to complete the final round of the potholder, follow these instructions:

1. Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A. Count how many stitches are between your hook and the folded edge of the potholder (I had 6; it’s ok if your number is slightly different). SC in all but the last 2 STS, then SL ST in each of the last 2 STS. Remove hook.
2. Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. Follow the instructions from Step 1, but with SPIKE STS. Remove hook and fasten off COLOR B; weave in its end.

Final Round: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A. CH1; SC into same ST. Continue to SC along top of the potholder, stopping when you get to the fold on the opposite side; CH20, then SL ST back into the same ST (at the base of the CH20) to form a loop. SC in each ST along the other side of the potholder to complete the round. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (68 + CH20)

Finishing: Fasten off COLOR A, leaving a long tail for seaming. Use the tail and a yarn needle to seam potholder closed. Tie a knot at the end; then run your yarn needle into the nearest opening and underneath about half a dozen stitches (going between the two layers of fabric). Pull yarn through, then reinsert yarn needle back into the exit point and repeat. Do this a few times, then cut yarn and pull fabric to make the tip of the yarn disappear completely into the potholder.

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Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design. Hope you enjoyed it!