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Click here to get your FREE Mosaic Bucket Bag PDF Planning Guide!
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First Things First… What’s A CAL?
***PLEASE NOTE: THIS CAL HAS FINISHED. YOU CAN STILL FIND THE PATTERN BELOW!***
A CAL (Crochet-Along) is an online event where a pattern is released in segments over the course of a number of weeks, and a community of crocheters works on it together. The Mosaic Bucket Bag CAL will begin on March 27 and last for 3 weeks. For this CAL, I’ll be keeping everything on this page; I’ll just update the page each time a new part of the pattern is released. The schedule is as follows:
Pre-Launch: Supply List (published)
Week 1:Â Base (published)
Week 2:Â Mosaic Section (published)
Week 3: Top, Drawstring, + Strap (published)
What’s the first thing you should do?
If you haven’t already, you should download your FREE Mosaic Bucket Bag PDF Planning Guide! This 8-page guide will walk you through the complete supply list, explain how the colors are chosen and how they work together, and give you lots of inspiration to fuel your creativity. It even includes a handy checklist so you know exactly what supplies you need and when!
(FYI, this is optional, and you’ll still be able to follow along with the crochet-along without the Planning Guide… but, I worked really hard on it and I am so excited about it, and I think you’re going to love it!)
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Click here to view your FREE Mosaic Bucket Bag PDF Planning Guide!
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Mosaic Bucket Bag on Ravelry
Ravelry lover? Click here to add the Mosaic Bucket Bag to your Ravelry favorites!
Join my Crochet-Along Facebook Group
Life is better together, right? That’s the heart behind a crochet-along, too! If you’re on Facebook and want to join our private group to ask questions, post progress pics, or just meet new friends while you work through the CAL, request your invite by clicking here.
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF. Below are three options: my popular All Access Pass, the individual PDF pattern, and a Bonus Pattern Bundle. PLEASE NOTE that regardless of whether you follow the free blog version, purchase the PDF, or become a Passholder, you will still receive the pattern in parts according to the crochet-along schedule. Click the image to learn more about each option.
Need a little extra help?
If you’re a visual learner, my tutorial videos are for you! You’ll find the step-by-step tutorials right here when they are published (according to the CAL schedule). Currently available: Video Planning Guide, Part 1: Base, Part 2: Mosaic, and Part 3: Top + Straps.
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MOSAIC BUCKET BAG
DIFFICULTY:Â Easy
FINISHED SIZES:Â Please note that measurements are approximate and may vary slightly depending on thickness of yarn used for COLOR C.
Laid flat:
Classic size: 12.5” (w) x 13” (h)
Mini size: 9.5” (w) x 8.5” (h)
Standing up with flat base, uncinched:
Classic size:  10” (w) x 5” (d) x 10” (h)
Mini size:  7.5” (w) x 4” (d) x 7” (h)
HOOK: F/G (4.0 mm)Â or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge
YARN: Bag is comprised of 3 different yarns. For a full explanation of how each yarn is used, please download your FREE PDF Planning Guide or watch the Video Planning Guide.
COLOR A: #4 worsted weight (preferably cotton) in any color.
Classic size: 150 yds / Mini size: 100 yds
COLOR B: #4 worsted weight (same type yarn as COLOR A) in a light color.
Classic size: 140 yds / Mini size: 70 yds
COLOR C: Can be any weight, any fiber, as long as it is thinner than COLOR B. Use darker colors for more contrast.
Classic size: 150 yds / Mini size: 80 yds
GAUGE: With COLOR A, 16SC x 20 rows = 4” square
ADDITIONAL SUPPLIES:Â
- (8) 6mm or 8mm Eyelets. You can find packages of eyelets at craft stores, and they are usually available in colors like silver, gunmetal, and gold. Either size (6mm or 8mm) will work.
- Eyelet Setting Tool. Sometimes this comes with your eyelets, but may need to be purchased separately. Just be sure to get the right size (6mm or 8mm)! You’ll also need a hammer.
- (2) 1” D-Rings. Get the same color as the eyelets you chose.
- (2) Swivel Lobster Clasps. Again, make sure these match your eyelets and D-Rings.
- Craft Cord, 2mm or 4mm. This is for the drawstring. You’ll need two lengths of 34” each for the Classic size, and for the Mini size, two lengths of 30” each.
- Shoulder Strap. Nylon or cotton ribbon (sold by the yard) is an economical choice, but feel free to get creative! You’ll also need a needle and thread for sewing it. Choose measurements based on the wearer; for adults, you’ll need about 42”, and for kids, about 30”. Other options include sewing your own from another fabric, or ordering one online.
TERMS AND ABBREVIATIONS:
ST/STSÂ (stitch/stitches)
SL STÂ (slip stitch)
SKÂ (skip)
CHÂ (chain)
SCÂ (single crochet)
Spike Stitch (see Special Stitches, below)
SPECIAL STITCHES:
SC Spike Stitch: Instead of inserting your hook into the top loops of the stitch, insert them into its base, then complete an SC. This will wrap your SCs over the top of the SCs from the previous round.
SL ST Spike Stitch: Follow instructions for SC Spike Stitch, but instead of completing an SC, complete a SL ST.
NOTES:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rounds do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) When instructed to “join”, join with a slip stitch to the first stitch of the round.
(4)Â Because we utilize the SC Spike Stitch for entire rounds throughout the pattern, we will be referring to those rounds as an extension of the SC rounds they are being worked into. For example, if Round 32 is a round of SC, then the very next round which places spike stitches on top of those SCs will be referred to as Round 32B. This just makes for easier counting.
CLASSIC SIZE
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PART 1: BOTTOM
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To begin:Â CH15.
Round 1:Â 3SC in 2nd CH from hook, SC in each of the next 12 CH, 3SC in final CH (working around the tail to the other side). Working down the other side of the chain, SC in each of the next 12 CH. Join. Â (30)
Round 2: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. 2SC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 12 STS. 2SC in each of the next 3 STS. Join. (36)
Round 3: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in next ST. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (42)
Round 4: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) 3 times. Join. (48)
Round 5: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (54)
Round 6: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) 3 times. Join. (60)
Round 7: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (66)
Round 8: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS) 3 times. Join. (72)
Round 9: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (78)
Round 10: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 8 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 8 STS) 3 times. Join. (84)
Round 11: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (90)
Round 12: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 10 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 10 STS) 3 times. DO NOT join. (96)
We are now switching to a seamless spiral. Do not join, turn or chain until instructed, and mark the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker so you don’t lose your place.
Round 13: Continuing in the same direction, SC in first ST (the ST you would have joined in, if we had joined the previous round) and in each ST around. Do not join. (96)
Rounds 14-22:Â SC in each ST around.
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PART 2: MOSAIC
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Switch to COLOR B. For the best transition, use the jogless method (demonstrated in the tutorial video for Part 2).
Round 23: SL ST in first ST of the round. (If you used the jogless color change method, you will have already done this.)  SC in each remaining ST around. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (96)
Round 23B: Insert hook into top loops of next ST; attach COLOR C and CH1; SC in same ST. SC SPIKE STITCH into next ST and each remaining ST. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (96)
Round 24: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. SC in each ST around (you’re working in the top loops of the SC Spike Stitches from the previous round). Remove hook. (96)
Round 24B:Â Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR C. SC Spike Stitch in each ST around. Remove hook. (96)
Rounds 25-47B:Â Repeat Rounds 24-24B. (96)
Round 48: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. SC in each of the first 95 STS. SL ST in the final ST. Â Remove hook. (96)
Round 48B:Â Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR C. SC Spike Stitch in each of the first 95 STS. SL ST in the remaining ST. Remove hook. (96)
Fasten off both COLOR B and COLOR C (but don’t weave in ends yet).
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PART 3: TOP
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Turn bag right side out (if not already so). Fold it lengthwise along the bottom seam, and lay it flat so that the side with the joins and color changes is face up. Locate the stitch that sits atop the right-hand crease. Counting that stitch as #1, count over 8 stitches. Attach COLOR A into that 8th stitch; CH1.
Round 49:Â SC in same ST as CH1, and in each ST around. Join. (96)
Rounds 50-52: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join. (96)
Round 53: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 11 STS. CH1, SK next ST. (SC in each of the next 11 STS; CH1, SK next ST) 7 times. Join. (96)
Round 54: CH1, turn. SC in first CH1 space. Continue to SC in each ST around, putting 1SC in each CH1 space. Join. (96)
Round 55: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 39 STS. SC each of the next 6 STS over a D-Ring. SC in each of the next 42 STS. SC each of the next 6 STS over a D-Ring. SC in each of the remaining 3 STS. Join. (96)
Round 56: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 3 STS. SC SPIKE STITCH in each of the 6 STS inside the D-Ring. SC in each of the next 42 STS. SC SPIKE STITCH in each of the 6 STS inside the D-Ring. SC in each of the remaining 39 STS. Join. (96)
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Proceed to ADDING EYELETS, located after instructions for Mini Size bag.
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MINI SIZE
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PART 1: BOTTOM
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To begin:Â CH15.
Round 1:Â 3SC in 2nd CH from hook, SC in each of the next 12 CH, 3SC in final CH (working around the tail to the other side). Working down the other side of the chain, SC in each of the next 12 CH. Join. Â (30)
Round 2: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. 2SC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 12 STS. 2SC in each of the next 3 STS. Join. (36)
Round 3: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in next ST. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (42)
Round 4: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) 3 times. Join. (48)
Round 5: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (54)
Round 6: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) 3 times. Join. (60)
Round 7: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (66)
Round 8: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS) 3 times. DO NOT join. (72)
We are now switching to a seamless spiral. Do not join, turn or chain until instructed, and mark the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker so you don’t lose your place.
Round 9: Continuing in the same direction, SC in first ST (the ST you would have joined in, if we had joined the previous round) and in each ST around. Do not join. (72)
Rounds 10-15:Â SC in each ST around. (72)
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PART 2: MOSAIC
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Switch to COLOR B. For the best transition, use the jogless method (demonstrated in the tutorial video for Part 2).
Round 16: SL ST in first ST of the round. (If you used the jogless  color change method, you will have already done this.)  SC in each remaining ST around. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (72)
Round 16B: Insert hook into top loops of next ST; attach COLOR C and CH1; SC in same ST. SC SPIKE STITCH into next ST and each remaining ST. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (72)
Round 17: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. SC in each ST around (you’re working in the top loops of the SC Spike Stitches from the previous round). Remove hook. (72)
Round 17B:Â Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR C. SC Spike Stitch in each ST around. Remove hook. (72)
Rounds 18-30B:Â Repeat Rounds 17-17B. (72)
Round 31: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. SC in each of the first 71 STS. SL ST in remaining ST. Â Remove hook. (72)
Round 31B:Â Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR C. SC Spike Stitch in each of the first 71 STS. SL ST in remaining ST. Remove hook. (72)
Fasten off both COLOR B and COLOR C (but don’t weave in ends yet).
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PART 3: TOP
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Turn bag right side out (if not already so). Fold it lengthwise along the bottom seam, and lay it flat so that the side with the joins and color changes is face up. Locate the stitch that sits atop the right-hand crease. Counting that stitch as #1, count over 6 stitches. Attach COLOR A into that 6th stitch; CH1.
Round 32:Â SC in same ST as CH1, and in each ST around. Join. (72)
Round 33: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join. (72)
Round 34: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 8 STS. CH1, SK next ST. (SC in each of the next 8 STS; CH1, SK next ST) 7 times. Join. (72)
Round 35: CH1, turn. SC in first CH1 space. Continue to SC in each ST around, putting 1SC in each CH1 space. Join. (72)
Round 36: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 28 STS. SC each of the next 6 STS over a D-Ring. SC in each of the next 30 STS. SC each of the next 6 STS over a D-Ring. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Join. (72)
Round 37: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 2 STS. SC SPIKE STITCH in each of the 6 STS inside the D-Ring. SC in each of the next 30 STS. SC SPIKE STITCH in each of the 6 STS inside the D-Ring. SC in each of the remaining 28 STS. Join. (72)
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Proceed to ADDING EYELETS.
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ADDING EYELETS
With eyelets, eyelet setting tool and hammer ready, turn your bag inside out. Follow the instructions on your eyelet kit (or watch my video demonstration!) to add eyelets to each of the eight holes at the top of the bag.Â
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ADDING DRAWSTRING
Option 1: Double Side Drawstrings
Lay bag flat (right side out). Starting on outside of bag, insert first length of craft cord (represented in purple) into the first eyelet on the left. Moving right (counter-clockwise), weave cord in and out through all 8 eyelets around the bag; the last one should exit the bag so that both ends of cord are outside the bag. Make sure bag is uncinched, then bring cord ends together and tie a tight knot close to the bag. Complete with second length of craft cord (represented in navy), but start on the eyelet on the right side of the bag and move left (clockwise).
Option 2: Single Centered Drawstring
Lay bag flat (right side out), seam side down. Starting on front of bag, locate center and insert craft cord in first eyelet to the left. Working left (in a clockwise direction), weave cord in and out through all 8 eyelets around the bag; the last one should exit the bag so that both ends of cord are outside the bag and can meet in the center. Make sure bag is uncinched, then bring cord ends together and tie a tight knot close to the bag.
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ADDING A STRAP
The following are very bare-bones instructions for making your own strap, but these instructions are meant specifically for someone like me who is not a seamstress and just needs something basic. Other options include purchasing straps online, or sewing your own from fabric. There are plenty of tutorials on YouTube for this if you are handy with a sewing machine!
For the rest of us, here’s what I did:
1. Thread strap through lobster clasp.
2. Fold the tip of the strap over about 1/2”.
3. Hold the fold from Step 2 in place and make another fold about 1” down, resting the hardware in that fold.
4. Use the texture of the material as a guide to sew a straight line across the strap, just below the first fold (as indicated in the photo), going through all three layers.
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DONE! If you’re sharing your bag on social media, be sure to use hashtag #mosaicbucketbagcal and tag me @yarnandchai.design!
Hello, how did you calculate where to put the holes and where to put the d rings because I wanted to make it larger but am having a hard time calculating it thanks in advance
Hello! I absolutely love this bag! I just finished the classic size and it is really pretty. I am a left handed crocheter though, and had problems with the stitch counts for adding the D rings. They are not centered with the sides of the bag. I want to make another in small size. Is there a way to re-figure the stitch count for lefties so the D rings come out in the correct place?
Just finished the Mosaic crochet bags and I absolutely love it, but I do have one question….the D-rings on the sides are not quite centered. I’ve taken it apart and redone a couple of times with the same result. All the openings for eyelets look like they are positioned right. Is this normal?
Hi there. So you mosaic bag the navy color. I love and would like to know what brand of yarn and color u used?
Thank you
Hello, Rebecca I started my Mosaic Bucket Bag some months ago and it is almost done, except for the D-Rings and the eyelets. Please can you tell me the size of the D-Rings in mm? Thank you for your easy to follow explanations
According to google, 1″ = 25.4mm.
Love your patterns and very clear video instructions . You are doing an amazing job with this website. I made the Malia cowl and I’m almost done with the bucket bag now. The PDF helping to select colors was very well done. These are two of my favorite projects to date and I’ve been knitting and crocheting off and on for 30 plus years. Best of luck to you and Happy New Year.
Hi!
Did you ever publish part two?
The complete pattern is above 🙂
I love the look of this bag, and find your video instructions clear and helpful, especially when indicating exactly WHERE the hook goes in the transitional stitches (like when doing a join, SC and turn). BUT I disagree that the pattern is EASY.
I have started this bag no fewer than 10 times and had to frog the whole thing because the “oval” was lopsided, and even ripping it out slowly, I could never figure out what row I was on when I came to the join. I have counted stitches after completing each round, and sometimes only ripped out one row to fix the stitch count. This is certainly not the fault of the pattern, but in my opinion, this should be listed as an intermediate project. The current start on this is still lopsided, even though I have been crossing out every direction completed, so I “can’t” get lost, but the oval is still NOT. I’ll keep at it, because I want to see it through and your bag is beautiful. Just very frustrated.
I’m sorry you’re having a hard time. This pattern doesn’t really meet the qualifications for an intermediate level.
Hi I am making this bag and thought i would share a few suggestions. Number 1: when crocheting the base use stitch markers to indicate the sides, the section of 12 sc sts. So 4 stitch markers 2 on each side. Make sure you have 12 sc stitches between the markers and keep track of your stitch count for each round. I also used a stitch marker at the beg of each round. Number 2 : When working the last round before switching to the main color, join the yarn the same way as all the other rounds. This way you wont have the funny bump to crochet over. Number 3: There is no need to turn after each round when working the top portion of the bag. And you do not need to join each round Use a stitch marker to designate the end/beg of next round. Number 4: In the round where you create the opening for the eyelets, lay your bag flat and count stitches off before you start to crochet , this way you can determine if the placement is lining up. Do the same thing before placing the D rings on the side. Place st markers for your d ring location. Hope this helps. Jeanine
Same. I have the correct number of stitches on every row but the oval is lopsided like crazy. am hoping it straightens out as I progress to larger rows.
Where do you get your d-rings and lobster clasps?
Hobby Lobby, or any large craft store.
Thank you for this pattern. I’ve been looking for a cute purse pattern for awhile now and this is the one I’m going to make. I love having videos along with written instructions and you don’t often find them together.
I notice some people are adding a fabric insert to this – are there instructions on how to do this?
TIA
There are not 🙂
Thank you so much for your video tutorial. I’m usually a knitter & couldn’t have done this without your video & helpful tips!
Do you have any tips on getting the eyelets to stay in place? I finished a mini mosaic bucket bag for my granddaughter, and three of the eyelets have already come off. They feel snug when I put them on. Even the replacement eyelets in a different brand came off. I’m using the 6 mm size. Thank you!
I’m going to guess that maybe you didn’t hammer hard enough? Not sure… I’ve never had that happen before.
Dear Rebecca! I am so very happy with your Mosaik bucket bag!
I admire your explanation films that made it very easy to follow.
My bag is marine style, and I love it. I do not own a social media account
to proudly share a photo. Thank you very much for your crochet-along!
Susanne from Bavaria/Germany
Hi Rebecca,
I started the mosaic bag yesterday and I absolutely love this pattern. I never thought I could love a bag as much as the Malia Shoulder bag until this one came along! Thank you for such a beautiful pattern.
I have a concern, and it’s that my bag is getting wider and wider as I progress with the mosaic pattern. It’s really bowing out a lot. Is this normal? I think my tension is the same, I don’t typically have problems with that. It’s just so much wider than the base and is very “boat” shaped. If this is normal I will be so happy, but I just need to know if I’m doing something wrong!
Thank you,
Paige
I asked this same question on Facebook and it looks like all is fine and I just need to hang tight and it will work out in the end. My stitch count is correct, so there’s really nothing off I don’t think! Just wanted to give an update. Thanks again Rebecca, for this beautiful pattern.
I love your patterns. Right now I’m working on the Moasic Bucket Bag and can’t wait to get it finished. You have been blessed with an extra bit of creativity that makes your patterns and creations stand out above the rest. Your patterns are easy to follow and boom my crocheting looks stylish and professional. Thank you for sharing with all of us. Keep more coming!
I cant find where to print the mosaic bucket pdf under the all access pass?
I can’t find it either.
Hello! Are you a new Passholder? Here’s how to access:
1. Sign in to your Yarn + Chai account
2. Click “Passholder Area” in the very top menu (above the logo)
3. If the next screen says “content restricted”, hit the refresh button. Otherwise you should see images of all of my patterns (included the bucket bag at the top). Click an image to open the PDF.
🙂
Hello, I’m wondering what is the approx length of the oval bottom part at end of round 10 ? Just looks alittle small but more rounds to go yet so might be ok . Thank you. Enjoying crocheting this bag.
Hello! I can only tell you the measurements of the completed flat bases (after your last increase round) — Mine was about 7″ (classic) and 6″ (mini).
Thank you so much. I joined group on Facebook yesterday & I’m so enjoying making this bag. Your videos & written instructions are very good . Thanks again.