I love nautical decor. (Sidenote – the word “nautical” always makes me giggle because my boys love the movie “Boss Baby” and there’s a part where the older brother is trying to get the baby into this obnoxious blue and white striped outfit and the baby screams “I DON’T DO NAUTICAL! IT’S NOT EVEN FRIDAY!” My boys ran around the house for like a week yelling that line before they finally asked me one day, “Mommy, what does nautical mean?” But I digress.)
If you love the feel of the ocean breeze as much as I do, you’ll love making these super easy baskets that look like something out of a catalog. If you haven’t done grommets or eyelets on a crochet project before, don’t run away. I promise it’s easy-peasy. And you can’t beat the professional finishing touch they give to these baskets!
How It’s Constructed
I make my baskets a little different than the traditional way. I’ve made baskets before and never found them enjoyable because they required such tiny hooks to get the thick yarn nice and stiff, and even then, they weren’t that stiff. And my hands always ached. So, for my baskets, I use a double-layer method that relies on plastic canvas to get them really stiff and sturdy. It requires a little extra time, but a whole lot less wrist pain!
Choosing Your Yarn
For the Nautical Baskets, you’ll want to look for a #5 weight (chunky/bulky) yarn. I used Bernat Maker Outdoor, which is an acrylic/nylon mix, but there are many chunky yarns out there that will work. Just find something that you like the look of and has the colors you want to use, and avoid anything that’s super soft.
Choosing Your Colors
With a nautical theme in mind, I chose navy and white for my basket. But of course, you can use any color(s) you want! I think a deep red and white would be a beautiful compliment to the navy and white.
Additional Features
I add extra little features to my patterns whenever I can, because I think a little fabric or metal can add such a professional touch to handmade items. Here’s what I used in these baskets:
Rope Handles
You can find rope at pretty much any craft store, often in several different departments, sold in packages or by-the-yard; just look for the 3/8″ size. For this project, I chose a natural rope that I had leftover from another project. For the large basket, you’ll need two 20″ lengths. For the small basket, you’ll need two 16″ lengths.
Eyelets (optional)
If you’re wondering what those metallic circles are where the rope attaches to my basket – they’re eyelets! They give the basket such a professional finished look, and they are not hard to install – you just need a hammer and a little confidence. And if you really don’t want to put eyelets on your basket, that’s ok. You can simply feed the rope through the holes we create and they should stay put just fine.
If you have a Hobby Lobby nearby, you’ll find an eyelet kit in the sewing notions section. Make sure you grab the one with the setting tool included if you don’t already have one! You can also buy the setting tool separate and then choose your eyelet color (I picked silver). Either way, you’re looking for 15/32″ (12mm) eyelets and you need 4 per basket. Watch for the sale, and you’ll score it all for 50% off.
Metallic Embellishment
These are becoming more and more popular at the big box craft stores, and you’ll usually find them in the scrapbooking section. I found both the Emerson quote and the anchor at Michael’s. (The anchor actually came in a set of two.)
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF. Below are three options: my popular All Access Pass, the individual PDF pattern, and a Basket Bundle (if you love baskets, it’s a great deal!). Click the image to learn more about each option.
Nautical Basket
Difficulty: Easy / Beginner
Finished Size: 9″ wide x 8″ tall (large basket) and 6″ wide x 5.5″ tall (small basket)
Hook: H (5.0mm) and G (4.25mm). Because we’re using a small hook for a chunky yarn, make sure to protect your hands by using hooks with padded grips. I absolutely love my Clover Amour hooks
Yarn: I used Bernat Maker Outdoor for my baskets, but most #5 weight chunky/bulky yarns will work; just avoid anything that’s super soft. For the large basket, you will need about 330 yards of COLOR A (I used “Navy Ink”) and 165 yards of COLOR B (I used “Fresh White”). For the small basket, you will need about 170 yards of COLOR A and 75 yards of COLOR B.
Gauge: With your larger hook, your first 8 rounds should measure 3.75″ wide.
You’ll also need:
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Two 20″ (large basket) or 16″ (small basket) lengths of 3/8″ twisted rope for handles (available at craft stores)
- Optional but recommended: Size 15/32″ (12mm) eyelet kit. Each basket needs 4 eyelets. You don’t have to add these but they will give your basket a beautiful, professional finished look.
- Hammer (if using eyelets)
- Plastic Canvas – look for the large sheets of ultra stiff, and get a couple per basket. If you can’t find the large sheets, that’s ok; just grab a couple extra of the smaller ones.
Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
Special Stitch: Magic Circle (view my tutorial here)
Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in joined rounds. Some rounds are turned and some are not, so pay attention. CH1 at the beginning of rounds does not count as a stitch.
(3) The increases for this pattern are done in what I call a “Smooth Circle Base.” Normally when doing standard SC increase rounds, the more rounds you do, the more your circle will start to look like a hexagon (due to the height of the SC increases stacking up on each other). Because we do 16 increase rounds on the large basket, the effect is rather severe. So instead of a standard increase pattern, we are using a modified increase pattern that will result in a much nicer, rounded circle.
(4) When switching colors, you do not need to fasten off the previous color unless the instructions say to; you can simply carry it up the inside of basket. It won’t show in the end.
(5) The instructions for adding the eyelets are included after the written patterns, but the eyelets need to be installed in the middle of the pattern. This is noted in the patterns at the proper time. So when you get to that part, skip down to the eyelet instructions, then return to the pattern to complete it.
(6) The chunky yarn is too thick for the eyelets to attach through both layers, so they will only show on the outside of the basket.
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INSTRUCTIONS (Large Basket)
To begin: With COLOR A and H (5.0mm) hook, make a magic circle; CH1.
Round 1: 6SC in MC; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (6)
Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (12)
Round 3: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in next ST. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (18)
Round 4: CH1. SC in first ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST. (SC in next ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (24)
Round 5: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (30)
Round 6: CH1. SC in each of the first 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS. (SC in each of the next 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (36)
Round 7: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (42)
Round 8: CH1. SC in each of the first 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS. (SC in each of the next 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (48)
Round 9: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (54)
Round 10: CH1. SC in each of the first 4 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS. (SC in each of the next 4 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (60)
Round 11: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Round 12: CH1. SC in each of the first 5 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS. (SC in each of the next 5 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (72)
Round 13: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 11 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 11 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (78)
Round 14: CH1. SC in each of the first 6 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS. (SC in each of the next 6 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (84)
Round 15: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 13 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 13 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (90)
Round 16: CH1. SC in each of the first 7 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS. (SC in each of the next 7 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Rounds 17-19: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 20-22: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 23-25: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 26-28: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 29-31: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 32-34: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 35-37: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 38-40: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 41-43: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 44-46: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A; fasten off COLOR B.
Round 47: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Rounds 48-50: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Round 51: CH1, TURN. SC in each of the first 12 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 20 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 24 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 20 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (88 + 4 CH2 spaces)
Round 52: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around, putting 2SC in each CH2 space from the previous round. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Rounds 53-55: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
If you’re adding eyelets, STOP HERE and attach them now in each of the 4 holes we created in Round 51, then return to the pattern to complete it. (It will be much harder to do later.) See instructions following pattern for Small Basket.
Switch to G (4.25mm) hook.
Rounds 56-58: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Round 59: CH1, TURN. SC in each of the first 12 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 20 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 24 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 20 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (88 + 4 CH2 spaces) (Note: The holes you just created should be directly above the holes you created in Round 51.)
Round 60: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around, putting 2SC in each CH2 space from the previous round. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Rounds 61-63: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B (you fastened it off earlier but you can reattach it now).
Round 64: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Rounds 65-66: CH1, DO NOT turn. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 67-69: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 70-72: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 73-75: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 76-78: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 79-81: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 82-84: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 85-87: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 88-90: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 91-93: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (96)
Fasten off and weave in all ends. See sections on “Adding Plastic Canvas” and “Adding Rope Handles” to complete project.
INSTRUCTIONS (Small Basket)
To begin: With COLOR A and H (5.0mm) hook, make a magic circle; CH1.
Round 1: 6SC in MC; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (6)
Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (12)
Round 3: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in next ST. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (18)
Round 4: CH1. SC in first ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST. (SC in next ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (24)
Round 5: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (30)
Round 6: CH1. SC in each of the first 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS. (SC in each of the next 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (36)
Round 7: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (42)
Round 8: CH1. SC in each of the first 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS. (SC in each of the next 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (48)
Round 9: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (54)
Round 10: CH1. SC in each of the first 4 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS. (SC in each of the next 4 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (60)
Round 11: CH1. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Rounds 12-14: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 15-17: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 18-20: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 21-23: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 24-26: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 27-29: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR A; fasten off COLOR B.
Round 30: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Rounds 31-33: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Round 34: CH1, TURN. SC in each of the first 8 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 13 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 16 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 13 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 8 STS. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (58 + 4 CH2 spaces)
Round 35: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around, putting 2SC in each CH2 space from the previous round. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Rounds 36-38: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
If you’re adding eyelets, STOP HERE and attach them now in each of the 4 holes we created in Round 34, then return to the pattern to complete it. (It will be much harder to do later.) See instructions following this pattern.
Switch to G (4.25mm) hook.
Rounds 39-41: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Round 42: CH1, TURN. SC in each of the first 8 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 13 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 16 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 13 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in each of the next 8 STS. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (58 + 4 CH2 spaces) (Note: The holes you just created should be directly above the holes you created in Round 34.)
Round 43: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around, putting 2SC in each CH2 space from the previous round. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Rounds 44-46: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR B (you fastened it off earlier but you can reattach it now).
Round 47: CH1, TURN. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Rounds 48-49: CH1, DO NOT turn. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 50-52: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 53-55: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 56-58: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR B.
Rounds 59-61: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Switch to COLOR A.
Rounds 62-64: CH1. SC in each ST around; join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (66)
Fasten off and weave in all ends. See sections on “Adding Plastic Canvas” and “Adding Rope Handles” to complete project.
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ATTACHING EYELETS OR GROMMETS
Open your eyelet or grommet kit and retrieve the following items:
Follow the instructions on your eyelet/grommet kit to add eyelets/grommets to each of the four holes of the basket. (Please note that if your instructions include anything about punching a hole in the fabric, you do not need to do this step because we crocheted holes right into our fabric.) You can watch my tutorial video for the Malia Shoulder Bag to see exactly how eyelets are installed; I demonstrate it at the 19:11 mark (the video below is cued to that moment). A few tips to keep in mind:
- Do this on a solid, sturdy surface. Your hard floor is ok; a concrete garage floor is best.
- Make sure you are inserting the eyelet from the outside of the basket, through to the inside (not the other way around).
- Don’t go too crazy with the hammering or you’ll split and break the eyelet.
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ADDING PLASTIC CANVAS
Cut across your plastic canvas to make strips that will fit inside the basket and come up to just below the eyelets. Set your basket so that it is completely unfolded (image 1). Insert plastic canvas into the bottom of the basket, using as many layers as you want to make it as stiff as you want (image 2). Fold the inside layer down over the canvas (image 3). Work the fabric until it all lays neat and flat (image 4).
You can watch my Plastic Canvas tutorial video if you need help with what plastic canvas is, where to buy it, or how to use it; the only difference is that in the video, I’m not using a basket with eyelets so the canvas in the demo comes all the way to the top of the basket. But you’ll get the idea.
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ADDING ROPE HANDLES
Locate the seam of your basket, then locate the nearest eyelet to the right of the seam. Take your first rope handle and tie a piece of scotch tape around the end, and insert it through the eyelets as well as the corresponding hole on the inside layer of the basket. Tie a knot near the bottom of the rope on the inside of the basket and pull it tight (you can use your eyelet to help by gently but firmly pulling the rope from the outside of the basket, which will pull the knot against the eyelet and tighten it up). Then, use good scissors to cut the excess rope close to the knot. Moving farther away from your basket’s seam to the next available eyelet, insert the other end of the rope through it and repeat the process. That’s your first handle. For your second handle, start at the seam again and locate the nearest eyelet to the left of the seam. Repeat the entire process for the 2nd handle. (Neither handle should cross over the seam.)
Note that you’ll want both handles to be the same length, so be sure to compare them when you’re about to tie your final knot to ensure that the handle sizes match.
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That’s it – you’re done! If you’re showing off your work, be sure to hashtag #ycnauticalbasket and tag me @yarnandchai.design!
I love your patterns. I am making the smaller nautical basket and I have a question. When I get to row 48-49 and it says do not turn, should I be on the right side or the wrong side of the basket to when starting row 48. Thank you in advance for your help and patterns!