Potholder, trivet, hotpad… whatever you call them, they are a staple in any home. Why not use your yarn skills to add some handmade flair to your kitchen?
My favorite feature of these potholders is the double layer of thickness, achieved by working them in the round. It’s a simple way to protect your hands and furniture, and it gives the potholders a thick, professional-looking finish. And while these aren’t technically seamless (we join our rounds, chain up and turn), the seam is nicely hidden on the edge of the potholder where no one would be the wiser of it.
The simple ribbing design gives it a sleek, modern look, and it’s sure to be a beautiful addition to your kitchen.
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This pattern is also available as an ad-free, printable PDF! You can purchase the individual pattern, or get it as part of a 4-pattern bundle. And if you love PDFs, you might want to check out my All Access Pass. It’s an awesome deal! (Or, scroll down for the free version!)
Ribbed Potholder
View on Ravelry
Difficulty: Easy
Finished Size: 7.75″ x 7.75″
Hook: E (3.50 mm)
Yarn: Approx. 160 yards of cotton in a medium (#4) weight. For my samples, I used I Love This Cotton in Rosy.
Gauge: 19SC = 4″ in length. Stitch height does not matter for this pattern.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle
Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitch”)
Special Stitch:
3rd Loop Only – Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rounds, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.
Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CHs at the beginning of rounds do not count as a stitch.
(3) Pattern can easily be adapted for different yarn thicknesses, hook sizes, or desired final measurements, by adding or subtracting any number of chains from the beginning.
(4) Placing a stitch marker or bobby pin in the first stitch of each round is recommended.
INSTRUCTIONS
To Begin: CH37.
Round 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Working down the opposite side of the chain, SC across. You have now worked in both sides of each chain. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST. (72)
Round 2: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST. (72)
Round 3: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST. (72)
Round 4: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST. (72)
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Repeat Rounds 3-4, in order, until potholder reaches about 7.5″ in height; be sure to end on a repeat of Round 4 for best results.
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Final Round: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each ST across first side of potholder until you get to the fold. CH20; SL ST back into the base ST to form a loop. SC in 3rd loop of each remaining St around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST. (72 + CH20)
To finish: Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming. Weave in starting tail. Use the finishing tail and a yarn needle to sew potholder closed. Tie a knot at the end; then run your yarn needle into the nearest opening and underneath about half a dozen stitches or rows (going between the two layers of fabric). Pull yarn through, then reinsert yarn needle back into the exit point and repeat. Do this a few times, then cut yarn and pull fabric to make the tip of the yarn disappear completely into the potholder.
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Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design. Hope you enjoyed it!
Sure wish there was a good tutorial for how to make this potholder. I have tried several times and it is still not coming out right. I am new to crocheting so visuals are so very helpful. Any suggestions? Love the potholder and hope I can figure it out at some point! Love many of your designs!
Is the top end with the 20 chain to remain open? or did I do something wrong?
it should make a loop to hang it on
I have read so many posts concerning the blogger lovers but this post is genuinely a good post, keep it up.
I am a beginner and would like to have a go at this beautiful thick potholder, however when I read the instructions it looks complicated. I am very visual, do you have video tutorials? Thank you.
Not for this particular pattern, no, but you can find my videos at youtube.com/yarnandchai 🙂
I don’t know why, but in the 2nd round I’m ending up with 74 stitches instead of 72, unless I skip that first chain under my ch 1 and go into the next available stitch.
You have to be stitching an extra one there or you chained one too many. But honestly, it’s not going to make enough of a difference to stress over. 🙂
So is one end round and the other square?
Hi Erica! The same question was asked in the FB group and I’m thinking it might be from you as well, but just in case it’s not — I think you are probably not joining at the end of your rounds, and you need to be. 🙂
I have a question. As you are crocheting in the round basically when you end the row & so ut says to turn so do you go back in the direction you just finished or continue straight on…? Thanks
Yes, you turn, then go back in the direction you came from. For instance, at the end of the 1st round, when you slip st into the first sc of the round, your work will most likely be hanging vertical. After you make the slip st, chain1, then flip your work over and begin the 2nd round in the top loops of the last sc you just made before slip stitching – look at it from both sides of the fabric to identify which top loops belong to that stitch. You will be working into this stich from the “wrong” or “back” side – like you do when you’re working in rows with turning after each row.
It is possible to continue working in the same direction rather than turning, but the designer probably included turns so that the fabric’s texture would look a certain way. And sometimes, even if there’s no particular texture desired, turning like this can help even out the stitches from all leaning the same way due to the fact that crochet stitches normally lean. Hope this helps. Sometimes it’s helpful to make a smaller swatch to see how the pattern works, like with at least 10 sts before doing the entire pattern length of 37 sts.
Thank you for all of your suggestions . Ill give it a go again, somehow I ended up with 4 extra stitches I think it might be at the curve at the end . your suggestion after the slip st might be an issue too.
I’ve tried ordering the PDF and it doesn’t work, keeps asking for my account info, which I fill in, and then it asks again. So aggravating. Could you please fix? Thanks. Like your designs.
I’m trying to get it to but it wants me to pay even though I’ve logged in with my all access pass… ??? I cant figure it out…
Here are the steps to access your All Access Pass:
1. Sign in to your Yarn + Chai account
2. Click “Passholder Area” in the very top menu (above the logo)
3. If the next screen says “content restricted”, hit the refresh button. Otherwise you should see images of all of my patterns. Click an image to open the PDF.
If you need further assistance, please email me directly using the contact form: https://yarnandchai.com/contact/
Rebecca 🙂
Carol, I’m happy to help. Please contact me directly: https://yarnandchai.com/contact/
Rebecca