A couple of months ago, we took our annual family trip to my favorite Michigan spot, South Haven! It was an amazing week full of great food, gorgeous sunsets, and lots and lots of beach time.
Of course I had to stop in at Needle In A Haystack (edit: sadly, this cute little yarn store is now closed for good) for some Cascade Longwood yarn so that I would have something to work on down at the beach!
This is probably my favorite yarn out of anything I’ve used. It’s so soft and has such a stunning, defined finish, and gorgeous drape. I first experienced it (the #3 weight version) during last year’s trip, which resulted in the South Haven Slouch. It’s not the easiest yarn to find, but you can always order it online from stores like Jimmy Beans Wool. It’s pricier than what you find in the big craft stores, so I save it for my most special projects, like the Herringbone Baby Hat I recently made for my son (Due in December).
This year’s “vacation pattern” is also a slouchy hat, because frankly, it’s really hard to crochet anything bigger without it getting dragged across the sand every time the wind blows. And if you’ve spent any time around my blog, you probably noticed that I loooooove slouchy hats. I never get bored with them! Like the South Haven Slouch, this one also uses the #3 weight version of Longwood, called Longwood Sport.
I usually use temporary names for my patterns until it’s time to publish them, and then I come up with something permanent. I called this one the Shiplap Slouch as I was making it, and the name just stuck. Something about the color and the lines reminds me of shiplap. (Yes, I do watch a lot of Fixer Upper, why do you ask?)
OH, and before I forget… yes, there’s a matching cowl pattern!
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SHIPLAP SLOUCH HAT
Difficulty: Easy
Finished Size: 9.5″ tall x 9.5″ wide (when laid flat)
Hook: H (5.00mm) and G (4.25mm)
Yarn: Approximately 230 yards of Cascade Longwood Sport, a #3 light yarn.
Gauge: Your first 5 rounds should measure 3″ across.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker
Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
HDC (half double crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:
HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.
(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)
Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round until the band. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds and do not join unless instructed to do so.
(3) Since we are working in a seamless round, your ribbing rows will not meet up perfectly in the back. This is unavoidable, and the alternative (joining each round) is much, much more obvious. (Trust me, I tried it.)
(4) Pattern uses regular HDC to set up each ribbing row. The abbreviation is very similar to HHDC, so pay attention!
(5) To find the “3rd loop” (as mentioned in Round 13 and every 4 rows after that), reach over your top loops and insert your hook into the loop just past (below) the top loop that is furthest from you. (Also called the Camel Stitch or RibHDC.)
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THE PATTERN
To begin: With H hook, make a magic circle; CH1.
Round 1: 9 HHDC in MC. (9)
Round 2: 2 HHDC in each ST around. (18)
Round 3: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in next ST) around. (27)
Round 4: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)
Round 5: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (45)
Round 6: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (54)
Round 7: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (63)
Round 8: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 6 STS) around. (72)
Round 9: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (81)
Round 10: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 8 STS) around. (90)
Round 11: HHDC in each ST around. (90)
Round 12: HDC in each ST around. (90)
Round 13: HHDC in 3rd loop of each ST around. (90)
Round 14: HHDC in each ST around. (90)
Round 15: HHDC in each ST around. (90)
Round 16: HDC in each ST around. (90)
Rounds 17-32: Repeat Rounds 13-16. (90)
Round 33: HHDC in 3rd loop of each ST around. You should now have 6 rows of ribbing. (90)
Switch to G Hook.
Rounds 34-39: HHDC in each ST around. (90)
Round 40: HHDC in each of the first 86 STS (4 STS remain). SC in each of the next 2 STS, SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. (90)
Fasten off and weave in your ends.
Hello! To make a smaller, child sized hat, would one simply stop increasing the rounds sooner — and crochet the brim area when it looked appropriate? thanks for any advice! And thanks for publishing the pattern for this cute hat!
if I want to make this pattern for large heads with a lot of hair would you just increase the rows by 9 stitches per row after row 10 then instead of 90 stitches increase each row by 9 ? I am using 4.5 mm and 3.5 mm for brim and soft and shiny by loops &Thread I have made many but they fit small to med heads
I love it!!!
Hi Rebecca. My hat turned out lovely with a beautiful drape. I used Yarn Bee Sweet Delight and went down a hook size to get the gauge to a G. I used an F hook for the brim, but it is too large. My question is how do you decrease a HHDC stitch. Thank you.
Thank you.
Love this hat, just started and had to start again wrong stitch .. ?! I have just one question, do you slip stich at the end of every row?
Nope, as written, I crochet this hat in a continuous round. No joining or chaining up each round.
Oops.. I did!! Have to start again!! ?
Shouldn’t cross read, always in. Hadte to start. ?
Thank you for making this pattern free for us. I am doing a trial run with a 3# Mandala before investing in the Longwood sport. I am finding the pattern very easy to follow.
Can you please tell me on Round 13… What you mean by: HHDC in 3rd loop of each stitch around?? Stitch count will be 90. So how is that so if you’re only going in every third loop?
Hi Kim, you aren’t skipping stitches, you’re going into each stitch’s 3rd loop. Here is a tutorial: http://littlemonkeyscrochet.com/tutorial-ribbed-half-double-crochet-stitch-ribhdc/
Love your slouch ,i have been wanting to make this for a while,can’t wait to get started
Hi Rebecca !!
Happy New Year !! Omg, I fell in love with this hat the minute I saw it. I’m new to crochet, so all your links and photos helped a lot. I just have one question… the top portion of my hat seems too big… it’s measuring 9 inches on the top… but I did notice the dimensions you gave… so it’s okay that the top (before the HDC and HHDC through 3rd loop ?
I want to thank you for sharing this pattern for free, it’s really generous and kind of you to share your gift with us☺️
The pattern was very easy, I loved the hat when I first saw it, I’m also going to crochet the cow. Thank you so much for your patterns. Margaret Fulton, Jersey City,N.J.
Hey, I was wondering if you could explain row 13 to me one more time?
I’m working on row 13 as well, and just figured it out. There is a stitch behind the typical v stitch that you normally go into. That is the stitch you want to go into.
Can’t wait to get started on your Beautiful patterns
Thank you very much for this pattern! It’s very pretty. However, I tried to make it and it ended up much too big. I used a size H crochet hook and size 4 impeccable yarn. Do you have any suggestions, and is there a way to modify the pattern to make it smaller? Thanks!
The pattern calls for a #3 yarn, not a #4, so that’s your problem right there. 🙂
You should also be sure to do a gauge check before beginning because even if you use the exact same yarn and hook as I did, your hat could still come out too small or too big since everyone’s tensions are different.
When making stitches until the HHBC after the HBC, do you stitch through both loops, or just the front loop?
I’m not sure exactly what you’re asking, but there isn’t anywhere in the pattern that you do front loop only, so I guess the answer is “both loops” 🙂
how man y chains to make magic circle?
The Magic Circle doesn’t use chains. You can view my tutorial here: http://littlemonkeyscrochet.com/how-to-crochet-a-magic-circle/
Thank you