© Model Photography by Kindred Photo & Design
Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!
So there is this gorgeous classic knit scarf style that I’ve been seeing everywhere (like here), and I haven’t been able to get it out of my mind. Mostly because when I first saw it and fell in love with it, I knew I could recreate it as a crochet scarf.
It just looked so plush and warm and comfy… which is why I knew that just as important as finding the right stitches, was choosing the right yarn. There was no doubt in my mind that Cascade Yarns had what I needed!
After using Cascade’s Longwood Sport (a #3 light yarn) to create the Yenni Slouch Hat pattern, I always knew I’d use that yarn again. For this scarf, I opted instead for the #4 yarn in the same product line. When the Longwood 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool showed up on my doorstep, I was soooo happy with my decision. This yarn is so plush. Every so often I wanted to put my hook down and just bury my face in it. It’s like crocheting with bunnies. Honestly. Baby bunnies.
The best part? Even using a somewhat pricier yarn, I still spent half of what I would’ve spent buying this scarf. What do you think… can you tell the difference?
I really think you’re going to love this pattern! If you choose the right yarn, it’ll look and feel like luxury. All your friends will want to know where you bought it!
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SUPER PLUSH FAUX-KNIT INFINITY SCARF
Size: 58” around, 7” wide
Gauge: With H hook, 4HDC = 1”
Hook: H (5.0mm) – please see notes section
You’ll also need: Yarn needle
Yarn: Longwood 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool (by Cascade Yarns)*, 550-560 yards. The color in the photos is Cream.
*About Longwood 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool:
Weight: #4 worsted
Fiber: 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool
Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 191 yds (175 m)
Gauge: 18 sts = 4″ (10 cm), US 7-8 (4.5-5 mm)
SL ST (slip stitch)
HDC (half double crochet)
FHDC (foundation half double crochet — optional, but recommended. View tutorial at http://goo.gl/OiU7Mb)
3rd Loop – The bulk of this pattern is completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect. View tutorial here.
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) Be sure to choose a soft, breathable worsted weight yarn with good drape for this pattern. If you choose a heavier yarn, such as Aran, you’ll need to adjust your hook size so it doesn’t become stiff.
(3) You can make the scarf shorter or longer simply by changing the number of stitches in your starting row. There is no formula needed.
(4) CH1 at the beginning of rounds does not count as a stitch.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Round 1: FHDC* 220, or until your foundation chain is about 54″ long (it will stretch). Join to the top of the first FHDC with a SL ST, being careful that you don’t twist the round.
*Alternate start, if you aren’t comfortable with the Foundation method: CH221. HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH (220 HDC). Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST.
Round 2: CH1, turn. In 3rd loops, HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (220)
Rounds 3-27 (or until scarf is the width you prefer: Repeat Round 2.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Pretty simple, right? Enjoy!
I’m anxious to try this pattern. Beautiful scarf.