Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for supplying the yarn for this sample!

If you’ve spent any time around my blog, you know how much I loooooove slouch hats. I just can’t get enough of them. I never considered myself a hat person until I created and tried on my first slouchy hat, but from that moment on, I was hooked.

Today, I’m adding another slouchy pattern to my growing collection!

This one is sort of a “sister hat” to the South Haven Slouch. It uses the same basic structure, but I’ve added some cute new detailing between the ribbing sections to create a very different finished look.

For the sample, I used Lion Brand’s LB Collection 100% Superwash Merino Wool in “Cherry”. I love this yarn. It’s only available on Lion Brand’s web site or in their stores, but it’s so worth ordering. It’s the same yarn I used for this gorgeous cowl.

I tried to photograph the hat from a few different angles to really give you a sense of the finished look. Here’s what it looks like from the (angled) front:

And here’s the back. Like the South Haven Slouch, this one has a rippled top that gives it a faux-cinched look.

So grab your hooks and yarn, and let’s get started!

 

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THE MARION SLOUCH HAT

Level: Easyish (technically closer to intermediate, but if you’re a confident crocheter and comfortable with reading patterns, you canpull this off!)

Size:
One Size Fits Most (Teen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 10” across at band, and is 9” tall. I like just a little bit of slouch in my slouch hats, but if you like more, you can add rounds to the body of the hat.

Materials:

• H hook (5.00mm) and G hook (4.25mm)
• Yarn needle
• 240-250 yards of Lion Brand LB Collection 100% Superwash Merino Wool. The color in the photos is Cherry.
• Stitch marker or bobby pin (optional, but super helpful)

Gauge:
With H hook, 7 rows of 9HDC = 2″ square

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle) – view my tutorial here
CH (chain)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SK (skip)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
SC2TOG (single crochet 2 together)
RibHDC (also known as Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC; see Special Terminology, below)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. Instead of putting your HDC in the top loops, reach your hook past the back loop where you’ll find a 3rd loop on the side of the stitch. Insert your hook there to create your HDC. This forces both of the top loops to rest on the front of your project, creating a ribbing effect. In other patterns it is also referred to as a Camel Stitch or RibHDC.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in joined rounds. You will turn at the beginning of some rounds, and not others. Pay attention!
(3) Even though this pattern is worked in joined rounds, it is recommended that you keep a stitch marker or two handy. I found that placing a stitch marker in the first and last stitches of my rounds really helped me to not get confused about my starting and ending stitches. When working back and forth between regular loops and 3rd loops (beginning on Round 7), it can be hard to tell which stitch is technically your last stitch of the round… and, when we start turning our rounds during the SC+HDC texture in Round 11, it’s just easier to keep track of where to place your stitches.
(4) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(5) It goes without saying, but count your stitches! Once you’re done increasing, you should consistently have 100 stitches per round (until you get to the band).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using H Hook, make a magic circle.

Round 1:  CH1. 10 HDC in MC. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (10)

Round 2: CH1. 2 HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (20)

Round 3: CH1. 2 HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (40)

Note: At this point you should have a floppy-looking circle. This is a good thing. It will continue to get floppier as we increase, and then it will smooth itself out on the body of the hat. That’s how we create the cinched look on the top.

Round 4: CH1. (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (60)

Round 5: CH1. (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (80)

Round 6: CH1. (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 7: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 8: CH1. HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 9: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 10: CH1. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Note: Joining and turning while working in the round is something you don’t see very often in patterns, and that little slip stitch at the end of the round can really throw you off because when you turn, it looks like a stitch… but it’s not, and needs to be ignored. This is where using a stitch marker will really come in handy. Just before you SL ST to the first SC in Round 10, mark your final stitch of the round with a stitch marker (1st photo). Then do your join (2nd photo). When you move on to Round 11, CH1 and turn as per the instructions (3rd photo). When instructed to SK the first ST, you’ll know to skip right over the stitch marker and do your first SC+HDC in the stitch immediately following it (4th photo).

Rounds 11-13: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 14: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 15: CH1, do not turn. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 16: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 17: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 18: CH1. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Rounds 19-21: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 22: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 23: CH1, do not turn. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 24: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 25: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 26: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 27: CH1. (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 8 STS) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (90)

Round 28: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (90)

Switch to G hook.

Rounds 29-38: SC around.

Note: At some point around Round 33, you may want to check the band of the hat to see if it’s measuring about 10 inches. If it’s measuring much bigger than that, you may want to grab a smaller hook to finish things off.

Smooth out the round by slip stitching into the first 3 STS of the next round. Fasten off and weave in ends.