Welcome to Part 3 of the Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL! Today we’ll be creating the base and straps for our bag and assembling it all together. This is the FINAL pattern stop on our CAL! (But don’t disappear yet, because there are still giveaway winners to be announced next week!)

You are currently viewing the UK version of this pattern. It was originally published in American Standard Terms.

If this is the first time you’ve heard of the CAL, be sure to check out this post that lists all of your needed materials. Even if you’re a little late to the party, you can still join in!

And, don’t forget to join the Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL Facebook Group to share your progress, get tips from others, and maybe answer a question or two yourself. We’re in it together, and that’s what makes it fun!

The schedule for the CAL is as follows:

June 25: Start Here! Intro Post and Materials List
July 2: Part 1, Flower Squares
July 9: Part 2, Body of the Bag
July 16: Part 3, Base, Embellishments and Strap (this post)

Each pattern post will include clear instructions, helpful photos, and a great tutorial video. When you’re done with each week’s assignment, head over to the Facebook Group to share your progress. And don’t forget to enter yourself in the giveaway, down below the pattern. There will be new opportunities to add entries each week, so pay attention!

Ready? Let’s get this shoulder bag finished!

WILDFLOWER SHOULDER BAG CAL PART 3: CONSTRUCTING THE BOTTOM OF PURSE

You are currently viewing the UK Terms version of this pattern.
For American Standard Terms, click here.

You Will Need:
Hook (the same one you’ve been using throughout)
Your chosen yarn
1 large sheet of plastic canvas (found at most craft stores)
Sharpie marker or pen
Scissors

Notes:
(1) Make 2.
(2) You will join your rounds with a slip stitch to the first DC of the round.
(3) The first DC of each round is always done in the same ST as the CH1.

Step 1: The Pattern (make 2)

To begin:
With H hook (or whatever hook you’ve been using), CH36.

Round 1: 3DC in 2nd CH from hook. DC in each of the next 33 CHs. 3DC in last CH, working around the tail to the other side. Coming over to the other side, DC in each of the next 33 CHs. Join with a SL ST to 1st DC. (72) 

Round 2: CH1 (does not count as a stitch, here or throughout). 2DC in same ST, 2DC in each of the next 2 STS. DC in each of the next 33 STS. 2DC in each of the next 3 STS. DC in each of the next 33 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st DC. (78) 

Round 3: CH1. 2DC in same ST. DC in next ST. (2DC in next, DC in next) two times. DC in each of the next 33 STS. (2DC in next, DC in next) three times. DC in each of the next 33 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st DC. (84)

Round 4: CH1. DC in each of first 2 STS. 2 DC in next ST. (DC in each of next 2 STS, 2DC in next) two times. DC in each of the next 33 STS. (DC in each of next 2 STS, 2DC in next) three times. DC in each of the next 33 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st DC. (90)

Round 5: CH1. 2DC in same ST. DC in each of the next 3 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 3 STS) two times. DC in each of the next 33 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 3 STS) three times. DC in each of the next 33 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st DC. (96)

Round 6: CH1. DC in each of first 4 STS. 2 DC in next ST. (DC in each of next 4 STS, 2DC in next) two times. DC in each of the next 33 STS. (DC in each of next 4 STS, 2DC in next) three times. DC in each of the next 33 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st DC. (102) 

Round 7: CH1. 2DC in same ST. DC in each of the next 5 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 5 STS) two times. DC in each of the next 33 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 5 STS) three times. DC in each of the next 33 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st DC. (108)

Round 8: CH1. DC in each of first 6 STS. 2 DC in next ST. (DC in each of next 6 STS, 2DC in next) two times. DC in each of the next 33 STS. (DC in each of next 6 STS, 2DC in next) three times. DC in each of the next 33 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st DC. (114)

Round 9: CH1. 2DC in same ST. DC in each of the next 7 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 7 STS) two times. DC in each of the next 33 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 7 STS) three times. DC in each of the next 33 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st DC. (120)

STOP! At this point, WITHOUT cutting off your yarn (because you still have another round to complete), you need to trace what you have so far onto a sheet of plastic canvas. You’ll only need to do this once. See the video for a tutorial. When you’ve cut out the plastic canvas, continue to Round 10.

Round 10: CH1. DC in each of first 8 STS. 2 DC in next ST. (DC in each of next 8 STS, 2DC in next) two times. DC in each of the next 33 STS. (DC in each of next 8 STS, 2DC in next) three times. DC in each of the next 33 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st DC. (126)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Step 2: Sewing the Bases Together

We now need to crochet together the two bases we’ve just made, with the plastic canvas in the middle. Place your base pieces, one on top of the other, so that they are lined up exactly the same. Use your seam to visualize this:

Then, insert your hook right at the seam, going through both pieces, and attach your yarn.

DC in the same stitch and continue to DC about halfway around, going through all 4 loops every time. When you get halfway, insert your plastic canvas.

Then, continue to DC around the rest of it, completely enclosing the plastic canvas inside. At the end of the round, join with a slip stitch to the first DC. Fasten off and weave in your ends.

Step 3: Prepping the Bottom of the Bag

We need to add 1 round of 126 DC to the bottom of the bag in order to help it match up perfectly with the base we just created. Set your base aside and lay your bag out in front of you upside-down, with the split rings on the outer edges. Insert your hook and attach your yarn in the right corner of the square all the way to the right (the one that lines up with a split ring), in the CH2 space from that square’s final round:

DC in that same space. Then, DC in each of the DCs along the edge. There are 20 of them, so adding that to the one we put in the corner, we will get 21 DCs. Skip the square’s left-side corner, and skip over the seam. Repeat the directions 5 more times by DCing into each square’s right-side corner, and along the edge of 20, skipping the left-side corner and the seam. Join with a SL ST to the first DC of the round.

Step 4: Attaching the Base

Find the centermost stitch on one of the ends of your base (you can eyeball it). With your hook still inserted in the last stitch you made from the previous round, put your hook through that center stitch as well. Yarn over and pull the yarn through both stitches.

Working through all 4 loops, SL ST around the bottom of the bag to attach the base to the body. When done, SL ST to the first ST of the round, fasten off and weave in your ends. (Do so on the inside of the bag, not the outside. Use a yarn needle to poke the tails through to the inside of the bag before weaving in.)

 

BASIC STRAP PATTERN

The options for bag straps are endless. You can purchase a leather strap like this one for a more sophisticated look, or you can search on Pinterest for a crocheted strap pattern that suits your personality. I’m going to provide you with a very basic and beginner-friendly strap pattern that will give your bag a casual style.

You Will Need:
Hook (the same one you’ve been using throughout)
Your chosen yarn
Scissors and Yarn Needle
Hardware (see notes)

Notes:
(1) After you make your strap, you’re going to be sewing it to a ring. You can sew it right to the rings on your bag, if you don’t want it to be detachable. If you do want to make it detachable (and interchangeable), you can sew it to a pair of hooks with clasps. These are basically just rings with metal hooks attached that will hook and unhook to the rings on your bag. You can find them in the jewelry section of most craft stores.
(2) SP = Spike Stitch. You’ll complete a DC by inserting your hook one stitch lower than usual. Photos are provided below, or you can watch the tutorial video.

The Pattern

To begin:
With H hook (or whatever hook you’ve been using), CH6. 

Row 1: DC in 2nd CH from hook and in each CH across. (5)

Row 2: CH1, turn. DC across. (5)

Rows 3-? Repeat Row 2 as many times as you wish to achieve preferred strap length. The strap in this photo, using Cotton-Ease and an H hook, is 90 rows long.

Edging Round 1: CH1. DC evenly around the entire strap, putting 3DC in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the first DC of the round. (If you are unsure of where to put your DCs, please watch the tutorial video.)

Edging Round 2: SP one row down, around the entire 1st round of edging, putting 3SP in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the first SP of the round. (The yellow dots in the photo are where you need to insert your hook for the Spike Stitch, which is basically just a DC that stretches down a row.)

Fasten off but do not weave in ends.

Attaching to Hardware

Slip one end through your chosen hardware (either the rings on your bag or a detachable ring and hook) and fold it over itself. Use the tail to sew it to itself, then weave in the tail securely. Repeat with the other end of the strap, being sure to fold it over at the same length you did the first side.

LINING YOUR BAG

As much as I would’ve loved to create a tutorial on lining your bag, I don’t sew. (My idea of lining my bag is sending it to my friend who knows how to sew and begging her to do it for me.) Fortunately, there are many tutorials out there. This one by CarrieWolf.net is the closest I’ve found to the style of our bag, and it’s a very well-written tutorial. Be sure to thank her in the comments on her blog post if you use her instructions!