© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design
Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!
I recently discovered Cascade Yarn’s Longwood Sport when I used it to make the South Haven Slouch pattern last month. I really fell in love with it, and wanted to work with it again. As a newbie crocheter, I always avoided patterns with anything thinner than worsted weight yarn because I thought it would take forever to work up. But eventually, I branched out and discovered that I actually love the look of items crocheted with thinner yarn. I encourage you to try it if you haven’t already!
This slouchy hat, called the Yenni Slouch (that’s pronounced like the English “Jenny”, by the way) is named after my beautiful niece who is modeling it in the photo. It also has a pair of matching boot cuffs — which, conveniently, are basically just little versions of the hat!
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One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 10” across at band, and is 9” tall.
- H hook (5.00mm) and G hook (4.25mm)
- Yarn needle
- Cascade Yarns Longwood Sport*, 250-270 yards. The color in the photos is Doeskin Heather.
*About Longwood Sport:
Weight: #3 light
Fiber: 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool
Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 273 yds (250 m)
Gauge: 22-24 sts = 4″ (10 cm), US 5-6 (3.75-4.0mm)
- Button embellishment (mine is 1-1/8″)
Gauge: With H hook, 4HDC = 1″
SS (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
DC (double crochet)
SC+DC (this just means to put a single crochet and a double crochet in the same stitch)
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect.
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Using H Hook, and leaving a 12″ tail, CH29.
Row 1: SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (28)
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (28)
Row 3: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (28)
Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 26 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (28)
Row 5: CH1, turn. Working in 3rd loops, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (28)
Rows 6-72: Repeat Rows 2-5 in order until you have 72 total rows (you will end with a repeat of Row 4).
Switch to G hook.
Row 73: CH1, DO NOT turn. Begin to SC down the LONG edge of the project, putting 5SC in each section between ribbing rows (see photo below for a visual). You should end up with 90SC. Then, CH 11 to create the base of your button flap.
Row 74: Turn your work. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Continue to SC across. (100)
Rows 75-84: CH1, turn. SC across. (100)
Row 85 (edging): CH1, turn. SC across (100). Putting (SC, CH1, SC) in both corners, continue to SC around the edge of the button flap. Stop when you get here:
Sewing the hat together
Fasten off your yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a yarn needle, sew the ends of the hat together. Utilize the 3rd loop of the edge with the HDCs in order to blend the seam in so it is hardly noticeable:
Once you get to the top of the hat, make a knot and weave in the end.
Cinching the top
Turn your hat inside out. Use your starting tail to cinch the top of the hat by threading it through a yarn needle and weaving the needle in and out along the top edge of the hat at even intervals. Once you’ve gone all the way around, pull the tail tight and insert your yarn needle across the cinched area a few times to really keep it closed, then make a knot and weave in the end. Turn your hat right-side out again.
Finishing the Button Flap
We still need to sew our button flap in place and attach our button. Using a needle and appropriately-colored thread, position the button flap in place and sew along its 3 edges to secure it. Use your needle and thread to attach your button as well.
WOW! Thank you for a beautiful, well written pattern. I love it.
Absolutely beautiful, I just got this amazing purple merino wool yarn and I want to make something special with it, I found my special pattern! I hope I have enough (100gms) cause that skein was the last one at the little store where I bought it! Thank you so much for sharing your talent, best wishes to you and you’re beautiful family
Question: What do you do if you are not a rank beginner crochet person but a advanced pattern will result in your ball of yarn being thrown across the living room?
Answer: Make one of your hats!! Perfect blend for an in-between ability person like me. Easy to follow directions. WOW! I am so proud of myself! Thank you for the pattern. I’m half done and can’t wait to finish. It is much better than crocheting cotton dishrags forever!
Aww, thank you so much! I’m SO glad you are finding success with my patterns. (No one wants to crochet dishrags forever!) Lol 🙂
Do you have a youtube tutorial on this?
I don’t, sorry 🙂
Do you think that if I used a smaller crochet hook and crocheted a little tighter that I could scale this down enough to fit a 6 year old child? I just love the look and I know my granddaughter would too!
If you do it that way, you’ll end up with a stiffer fabric that might not slouch properly, and you’d really be guessing on what your final measurements would be. A better way to do it would be to look up the standard measurements of a child’s slouch hat and adjust your starting chain and row count accordingly (i.e. measure as you go). Since this hat is worked flat, it wouldn’t be as complicated as it would be if we were working in the round.
Hi Rebecca, first thank you for all the beautiful patterns. I look forward to all of the fun. ? I have read through all the comments a few times and have learned how to work the new stitch ( hdc 3rd lp ) but I’m very confused on this one. Am I doing a row of hdc 3rd lp across or sc+dc in 3rd lp, skp 1 st across or 1hdc 3rd lp, skp 1 st, sc+dc, skp 1st across? Yes I said I was confused lol. This really means alot to me, I am making this beautiful hat for my daughter that is preparing to join the Navy. Knowing we probably won’t be seeing one another much through her journey. God bless you. Again Thank you.
Are you referring to Row 5? “Working in 3rd loops, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across” just means that you’re doing your (SK, SC+DC) in the 3rd loops of the previous row’s stitches instead of the top loops like you would normally do. So, the second option you mentioned is the correct one.
Love this pattern it’s beautiful! Im currently making it with a worsted weight 4 yarn..u understand u have to make adjustments, what would those adjustments be? What is the length it should measure since í won’t do 72 rows? And are there any other adj I would need? Thank you
You just need to factor in the final measurements of the hat when adapting the pattern. (So for instance, the hat is 20″ wide, so you’ll need your flat piece to measure that.) I can’t get much more detailed than that, as my general rule is that if you wish to adapt the pattern to a different category of yarn (or for any other reason), figuring out the stitch counts, etc. is on you. I wish you luck! 🙂
Hi! I’m currently working on your hat and was wondering about row 5. What does it mean, “working in 3rd loops?” Thank you! Love the hat. Doing it in red for a Christmas present 🙂
Sorry! Just saw the explanation further down.
i love this, pretty pattern
could you please tell me the number of inches long the 72 rows turned out to be?
(trying to make with worsted weight on G hook, want to know what row to stop on!)
I can’t tell you exactly, but based on the final measurements of the hat it was probably about 10-10.5″ long.
No sorry, I do not mean the height of the hat, I mean the length of the 72 rows! (which would be way longer than 10″) …is there any way you could remember or get the length (before joining/gathering)? thanks!!
Whoops sorry – I knew what you were asking, I just glanced at the finished width and wasn’t even thinking about the fact that the finished measurements are of the hat when laid flat after seaming. The long piece should be double what I told you, about 20-21″ long. (The height of the body of the hat should actually be more like 7-7.5″ to account for the fact that you still have to add the band at the end.) Hope that clears it up 🙂
awesome, thanks! i think i estimated just about right but wanted to make sure
Hello, I am new to crochet and I am giving your lovely pattern a go. I have used chunky wool and using a 6mm hook. I have done about 20 rows now and it’s just coming out at 9″ long I thought it would be longer as I’m using bigger wool and hooks to your pattern or have I got this wrong? Also on row 4 do you put an extra 2hdc every time you get round to doing this row again. I hope you can help.
Yes, you’ll follow the instructions exactly as written, including the 2hdc. (Make sure you are also skipping the first ST of the row to account for it.) Regarding the length, are you referring to the tallness of the hat? The hat ends up being 9″ tall if you have the correct gauge, so if you’re using a larger yarn and larger hook, then the fact that it’s already 9″ without adding the band at the end (which adds a couple of inches) sounds about right.
Thank you Rebecca, just worried I will do all 72 rows and get to the end to find it fits a small child than fit myself. Without the band it’s currently about 9inches tall. I am wondering if I should start again before I go any further but make my starting chain longer.
I think it just comes down to how slouchy you like your slouch hats. The one in the photo is 9″ tall.
Thank you great pattern. much appreciated
I really like the look of this pattern and have a Deborah nor vile everyday soft worsted yarn I’ve been planning on using for this type of pattern. Will this work. I can never seem to find a smaller weight yarn that’s not too expensive?
It will most likely be too thick, but the only real way to know is to do a gauge check. If you have to go down so many hook sizes that the fabric becomes stiff, it probably won’t work. If you have a Hobby Lobby nearby, they have a very nice #3 yarn called “I Love This Yarn Sport” that is very affordable 🙂
How did you end up with 90 SC total 5SC in between the ribs. I end up with 14 ribs only which gives me a total of 75SC. I don’t know where are the rest to total to your 90. Please help!
You should have 17 ribs, creating 18 sections. 18×5=90.
Hi, love our patterns, but find them a little confusing. For instance in this hat pattern, Row 5: CH1, turn. Working in 3rd loops, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (28)….What do you mean 3rd loops? As a suggestion, you might think about adding a visual. Please advise, Thanks
Hi Donni, there is a detailed explanation of “3rd Loop” in the pattern notes. If that doesn’t help, you can take a look at this tutorial: http://littlemonkeyscrochet.com/tutorial-ribbed-half-double-crochet-stitch-ribhdc/
Sure! Thanks for your quick reply and you GO GIRL! Be blessed…
It’s beautyful I will try to do it for my grand dauther. She look a lot like the beauty on this page. Tank you very much. It more than 20 years that i din’t crochet.
you give mIt a good pass time.
Thank you for sharing! I’ve made some beautiful hats for my sisters with this!
Wow! This pattern is gorgeous and easier than I thought it would be! I’m enjoying this project as the snow falls 🙂