Author: rebecca

  • Amigurumi Snowmen

    Amigurumi Snowmen

    Sometimes I learn the most random little facts while I’m working on a pattern.

    While browsing images of clipart snowmen online (to get a feel for what direction I wanted to take my crocheted version), I noticed that so many of them were two-layered snowmen. But in my head, a snowman is supposed to have three layers.

    I got curious, and a quick Google search taught me something I never knew: Three-layered snowmen are more of an American thing, and two-layered snowmen are more common in Asia. As for Europe, sources differ on which size is most traditional, so those of you “across the pond” will have to let me know your take.

    Anyways, I ultimately decided to design both styles, because why not? And TBH I honestly can’t decide which one I love more. They are both adorable!

    A quick tip for you: A little uncooked rice or poly-pellets at the bottom will make your snowmen free-standing and perfect for your mantle. Or, think how cute several of them would look on your holiday market table, all dressed in different colors of hats and scarves!

    All-Access Pass

    Image shows a printout of the Amigurumi Panda pattern PDF.

    If you prefer working from the convenience of a beautiful, ad-free PDF pattern, consider becoming a Yarn + Chai All-Access Passholder. It’s a sweet, inexpensive deal that gives you access to all of my PDF patterns, including this one! (You even get most of them before they hit the blog!)

    And now, on to the pattern…

    AMIGURUMI SNOWMEN

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Crochet Language: American Standard

    Finished Sizes: 2-layer snowman = 4.75 in.   /    3-layer snowman = 8 in.

    Yarn: #4 (medium) chenille yarn recommended*. The approximate amounts needed are:

    • BODY: 80 yards for a 2-layer snowman or 130 yards for a 3-layer snowman. (I used Loops & Threads Skinny Chenille in “Swan”)
    • SCARF / HAT: 1 set requires 40 yards of main color and 25 yards of secondary color. (I used Bernat Baby Velvet in “Bleached Aqua”, “Misty Jungle Green”, “Emerald”, and “Misty Gray”)

    *You’ll also need a very small amount of orange DK weight yarn (or thin medium weight) for the nose (I used LB 24/7 Cotton DK in Tamarin”), and black and white yarn and/or crochet thread for embroidering the facial features.

    Hook: 4.0mm (G) hook

    Gauge: First 5 rounds = 2.25 in. across

    You’ll also need: 

    • Long yarn needle
    • Polyester fiber-fill
    • 2 small black plastic eyes (or buttons)
    • Handful of uncooked rice (optional)

    Terms and Abbreviations:

    • ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    • CH/CHS (chain/chains)
    • SL ST (slip stitch)
    • CSC (crossed single crochet: Insert your hook, yarn UNDER, draw yarn through stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops.)
    • BLO (back loop only) 
    • FLO (front loop only) 
    • INC (2 CSC in same ST)
    • DEC (Insert hook into FLO of ST, then immediately insert it into the FLO of the next ST as well; yarn UNDER, draw yarn through stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops.)

    Notes:
    (1)     Stuff with polyester fiber-fill as you go. I also added a good handful of uncooked rice to the bottom layer of the snowman to give it some lower weight and help it to stand up on its own.

    (2) When pattern instructs with a number followed by a stitch
    (ex: “5 CSC”), it means to work one CSC in each of the next 5 stitches (not to work 5 CSC in one stitch).

    (3) Repeats are represented in (parentheses). Make sure you complete everything in the parentheses before repeating it. For example:

    “(CSC, INC, CSC) 3 times”
    means
    CSC, INC, CSC | CSC, INC, CSC | CSC, INC, CSC

    (4) Yarn, hook size and gauge are only meant as a guide, and this pattern will work with any yarn you choose; just use a hook that is smaller than the yarn’s recommended size for a nice tight fabric, and keep in mind your yarn amounts and finished dimensions will be affected by any changes.

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    by becoming a member!


    INSTRUCTIONS

    2-LAYERED SNOWMAN

    To Begin: With WHITE yarn, make a Magic Circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 8 CSC in MC. (8)

    Round 2: INC in each ST around. (16)

    Round 3: (INC, CSC) around. (24)

    Round 4: (CSC, INC, CSC) around. (32)

    Round 5: (INC, 3 CSC) around. (40)

    Proceed to “COMBINED PATTERN” section.

    3-LAYERED SNOWMAN

    To Begin: With WHITE yarn, make a Magic Circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 8 CSC in MC. (8)

    Round 2: INC in each ST around. (16)

    Round 3: (INC, CSC) around. (24)

    Round 4: (CSC, INC, CSC) around. (32)

    Round 5: (INC, 3 CSC) around. (40)

    Round 6: (2 CSC, INC, 2 CSC) around. (48)

    Round 7: (INC, 5 CSC) around. (56)

    Rounds 8-20: CSC in each ST around. (56)

    Round 21: (DEC, 2 CSC, DEC, CSC) around. (40)

    Round 22: DEC in each ST around. (20)

    – Beginning of 2nd layer –

    Round 23: INC in each ST around. (40)

    Proceed to “COMBINED PATTERN” section.

    COMBINED PATTERN

    From here on out, the pattern is the same for both snowman sizes. The only difference is the ROUND COUNT, indicated by (parentheses and green ink) for the 3-layer snowman.

    Round 6 (24): (2 CSC, INC, 2 CSC) around. (48)

    Rounds 7-17 (25-35): CSC in each ST around. (48)

    Pause here and add two small black plastic eyes or buttons, stacked vertically: one between Rounds 9 and 10 (27 and 28), and the other between Rounds 13 and 14 (31 and 32).

    Round 18 (36): (DEC, CSC) around. (32)

    Round 19 (37): DEC in each ST around. (16)

    – Beginning of 2nd layer (3rd layer) –

    Round 20 (38): INC in each ST around. (32)

    Round 21 (39): (INC, 3 CSC) around. (40)

    Rounds 22-30 (40-48): CSC in each ST around. (40)

    Round 31 (49): (DEC, 3 CSC) around. (32)

    Round 32 (50): (CSC, DEC, CSC) around. (24)

    Round 33 (51): (DEC, CSC) around. (16)

    Round 34 (52): DEC in each ST around. (8)

    To Finish: Fasten off with a long tail. Thread tail through a yarn needle and weave the needle in and out of the outer loops of the previous round, all the way around. Slowly pull circle closed. (Be careful if you’re using single-ply yarn, it breaks easily!) 

    Tie a knot, then hide knot and tail inside head.

    FACIAL FEATURES

    CARROT NOSE

    To Begin: With ORANGE DK WEIGHT yarn, make a Magic Circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 4 CSC in MC. (4)

    Round 2: (INC, CSC) around. (6)

    Round 3: (CSC, INC, CSC) around. (8)

    Round 4: CSC in each ST around. (8)

    To Finish: SL ST in next ST. Fasten off with a long tail. Secure starting tail and hide inside nose. Add a pinch of stuffing if needed. Set aside.

    EMBROIDERING THE FACE

    Use a strand of yarn or thread to draw a temporary line down the center of your snowman’s head. (Line it up with the buttons below.)

    NOTE: For purposes of this tutorial, “right” and “left” are from your perspective when facing the snowman.

    WITH BLACK YARN:

    Locate a starting point for the right eye about 2.5-3 stitches to the right of the temporary line, and between the 7th and 8th round counting up from the neck crease. 

    Coming from the back of the head, draw a line for the right eye that begins there and extends up two rounds and just slightly to the right. Repeat the same line several times until you are happy with the shape and thickness of the eye. 

    Start the left eye the same distance from the center line as you made the right eye. Draw a line that extends up two rounds and just slightly to the left. Repeat the same line several times until you are happy with the shape and thickness of the eye.

    When finished with both eyes, exit out the same stitch on the back of the head where you started. Tie a knot and hide inside head. 


    WITH BLACK CROCHET THREAD:

    Locate a starting point for the right eyebrow, two rounds up and one stitch to the right of the top of the right eye. Coming from the back of the head, draw a line one stitch to the right and one round down.

    Repeat for the left eyebrow, starting two rounds up and one stitch to the left of the top of the left eye. Exit 4 rounds down from the bottom of the eyes, in the very center, to prepare for the next step. (You can remove the temporary line now.)

    Draw a line for the mouth; I made one that extends 3 stitches to the right and one round up. 

    When finished with both eyes, exit out the same stitch on the back of the head where you started. Tie a knot and hide inside head.

    WITH WHITE YARN OR CROCHET THREAD:

    Coming from the back of the head, draw a line from the top of the eye to the bottom, and guide it to the outside of the eye. (I used medium weight yarn so I only needed one pass, but you might need to repeat the step several times if you use thread.)

    Draw a small line from the top of the eye down one round (half the height of the eye). Repeat as needed for desired thickness. (I used medium weight yarn and repeated once, but you might need to repeat the step several times if you use thread.)

    Exit through the same stitch you entered from the back of the head. Tie a knot and hide inside head.

    ATTACHING THE NOSE

    Use finishing tail to sew nose to face, centered between the eyes and the mouth.

    HAT AND SCARF

    For these items, you’ll need a main color and a secondary color.

    POM PATTERN (MAKE 3)

    To Begin: With SECONDARY COLOR, make a Magic Circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 8 CSC in MC. (8)

    Round 2: INC in each ST around. (16)

    Rounds 3-6: CSC in each ST around. (16)

    Round 7: DEC in each ST around. (8)

    To Finish: Fasten off with a long tail. Thread tail through a yarn needle and weave the needle in and out of the outer loops of the previous round, all the way around. Slowly pull circle closed. (Be careful if you’re using single-ply yarn, it breaks easily!) 

    Tie a knot to secure. For TWO of the poms, hide the knots and tails inside the poms; for the THIRD pom, leave the tail visible so you can use it to sew the pom to the hat.


    HAT PATTERN

    To Begin: With MAIN COLOR, make a Magic Circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 11 CSC in MC. (11)

    Round 2: INC in each ST around. (22)

    Round 3: INC in each ST around. (44)

    (If it’s super wavy at this point, you’re doing it right.)

    Rounds 4-10: CSC in each ST around. (44)

    Switch to SECONDARY COLOR; fasten off MAIN COLOR.

    Round 11: With a looser tension, SL ST in each ST around. (44)

    Round 12: CSC in BLO of each ST around. (44)

    Round 13: CSC in each ST around. (44)

    To Finish: SL ST in each of the next 2 STS to smooth down the round, then fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing hat to snowman. Secure other ends. 

    Use the finishing tail from pom to attach it to the top of the hat. Use the finishing tail from the hat to sew it to the snowman’s head. Secure with a knot and hide inside head.


    SCARF PATTERN

    To Begin: With MAIN COLOR, CH71.

    Row 1: CSC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (70)

    Rows 2-4: CH1, turn. CSC in BLO of each ST across. (70)

    To Finish: Fasten off. Use starting tail to cinch one end and attach a pom. Use finishing tail to cinch other end and attach a pom. Tie around snowman. (You can add a discreet stitch to keep it in place if desired.)


    You’re done!
    I hope you’ve enjoyed this pattern.
    Thank you for your support!

    Remember, you can get ad-free PDFs of all of my blog patterns by becoming a member.

  • Amigurumi Pig

    Amigurumi Pig

    This little piggy went to the market… the craft market, that is!

    Okay, not really. I haven’t done a craft market in years. But if I were to do one, I would absolutely add this little piggy to my inventory, right alongside the teddy bear, the panda, and the highland cow.

    Isn’t he so sweet-looking?

    All-Access Pass

    Image shows a printout of the Amigurumi Panda pattern PDF.

    If you prefer working from the convenience of a beautiful, ad-free PDF pattern, consider becoming a Yarn + Chai All-Access Passholder. It’s a sweet, inexpensive deal that gives you access to all of my PDF patterns, including this one! (You even get most of them before they hit the blog!)

    And now, on to the pattern…

    AMIGURUMI PIG

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Crochet Language: American Standard

    Finished Size: 12″ tall

    Yarn: #5 (bulky) velvet or chenille yarn recommended. The approximate amounts needed are:

    • COLOR A (main) – I used Big Twist Baby Bear in “Strawberry Smoothie”:  250 yds
    • COLOR B (snout + bottom of feet) – I used Juice Couture Luxe Velour in “Pink Diamond”:  20 yds

    You’ll also need a very small amount of thinner black yarn and white yarn for embroidering the eyes.

    Hook: 4.0mm (G) hook

    Gauge: 18 CSC x 20 rows = 4″ square

    You’ll also need: 
    Yarn needle (long)
    Polyester Fiber-Fill

    Terms and Abbreviations:

    • ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    • CH/CHS (chain/chains)
    • SL ST (slip stitch)
    • CSC (crossed single crochet: Insert your hook, yarn UNDER, draw yarn through stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops.)
    • BLO (back loop only) 
    • FLO (front loop only) 
    • INC (2 CSC in same ST)
    • DEC (Insert hook into FLO of ST, then immediately insert it into the FLO of the next ST as well; yarn UNDER, draw yarn through stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops.)

    Notes:
    (1) CHANGING COLORS    : In the stitch before a color change, complete the final step of the stitch with the new color; so you’ll work the stitch right before the change, and when it’s time to pull through the final loops, you’ll drop the first color and pull through with the new color.

    (2) When pattern instructs with a number followed by a stitch
    (ex: “5 CSC”), it means to work one CSC in each of the next 5 stitches (not to work 5 CSC in one stitch).

    (3) Repeats are represented in (parentheses). Make sure you complete everything in the parentheses before repeating it. For example:

    “(CSC, INC, CSC) 3 times”
    means
    CSC, INC, CSC | CSC, INC, CSC | CSC, INC, CSC

    (4) Yarn, hook size and gauge are only meant as a guide, and this pattern will work with any yarn you choose; just use a hook that is smaller than the yarn’s recommended size for a nice tight fabric, and keep in mind your yarn amounts and finished dimensions will be affected by any changes.

    Get ad-free PDF versions of all of my patterns
    by becoming a member!


    INSTRUCTIONS

    ARMS (make 2)

    To Begin: With COLOR A, CH6.

    Round 1: Starting in 2nd CH from hook, and working into only the back loop of each chain stitch, INC, 3 CSC, INC. Working around the chain* to the other side: INC, 3 CSC, INC. (14)

    Round 2: INC, 5 CSC, INC, INC, 5CSC, INC. (18)

    Rounds 3-8: CSC in each ST around. (18)

    Round 9: DEC, 16 CSC. (17)

    Round 10: DEC, 15 CSC. (16)

    Round 11: DEC, 14 CSC. (15)

    Round 12: DEC, 13 CSC. (14)

    Round 13: DEC, 12 CSC. (13)

    Round 14: DEC, 11 CSC. (12)

    Round 15: DEC, 10 CSC. (11)

    Round 16: DEC, 9 CSC. (10)

    To finish: Stuff lightly, then CSC closed by holding sides of opening together and working through both sets of corresponding loops across. (4 or 5 CSC, depending on the number you decide fits best; just be consistent with both arms.) Fasten off and hide ends inside. Set arms aside for later.

    Fasten off and hide ends inside. Set arms aside for later.

    LEGS (make 2)

    To begin: With COLOR B, make a Magic Circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 7 CSC in MC. (7)

    Round 2: INC in each ST around. (14)

    Round 3: (INC, CSC) around. (21)

    Round 4: (CSC, INC, CSC) around. (28)

    Switch to COLOR A. Fasten off COLOR B.

    Round 5: With a loose tension, SL ST in BLO of each ST around. (28)

    Round 6: In BLO, (3 CSC, INC, 3 CSC) around. (32)

    Rounds 7-8: CSC in each ST around. (32)

    Round 9: (3 CSC, DEC, 3 CSC) around. (28)

    Round 10: 10 CSC, 4 DEC, 10 CSC. (24)

    Round 11: 8 CSC, 4 DEC, 8 CSC. (20)

    Rounds 12-22: CSC in each ST around. (20) 

    Fasten off. Add stuffing. (I stuff the bottom part of the leg quite densely, then lightly stuff the skinnier part and leave about 1/2” at the top competely unstuffed. This helps the legs stay flexible.)

    Continue on to BODY.

    BODY

    To Begin: Place legs side by side, fronts facing away from you. On the inner sides that sit closest together, locate the centermost stitch on each leg. With COLOR A, join legs together by joining yarn through top loops of BOTH opposing stitches; CH1.

    Round 1: CSC in same ST as your CH1 on the left leg, and moving clockwise, CSC in each remain- ing ST around left leg (20 CSC). Continue to the right leg, and CSC again in the same ST as your initial CH1; continue to CSC in each ST around the right leg (20 CSC). (40)

    NOTE: When you come to the part on each leg that has the “dropoff” created by the end of the final round, simply CSC until the dropoff and continue immediately to the next unworked stitch after it. (Pretend the dropoff isn’t even there.)

    (Photos show technique in a different yarn.)

    Round 2: In FLO for this round only, (INC, 3 CSC) around. (50)

    Rounds 3-11: CSC in each ST around. (50)

    Round 12: (4 CSC, DEC, 4 CSC) around. (45)

    Round 13: CSC in each ST around. (45)

    Round 14: (DEC, 7 CSC) around. (40)

    Round 15: CSC in each ST around. (40)

    Round 16: (3 CSC, DEC, 3 CSC) around. (35)

    Round 17: CSC in each ST around. (35)

    Round 18: (DEC, 5 CSC) around. (30)

    Along Round 18, use stitch markers to mark 4 or 5 STS for each arm (depending on how many STS you used to seam the arms).

    Round 19:  CSC in each ST around, attaching arms as you go by inserting hook into corresponding ST on arm AND body. (30)

    Round 20: (DEC, 3 CSC) around. (24)

    Stuff as desired. Continue on to “HEAD”.

    HEAD

    Continuing from Round 20 (BODY),

    Round 21: In FLO for this round only, (CSC, INC, CSC) around. (32)

    Round 22: (INC, 3 CSC) around. (40)

    Round 23: (2 CSC, INC, 2 CSC) around. (48)

    Round 24: (INC, 11 CSC) around. (52)

    Round 25-35: CSC in each ST around. (52)

    Round 36: (DEC, 11 CSC) around. (48)

    Round 37: (2 CSC, DEC, 2 CSC) around. (40)

    Round 38: (DEC, 3 CSC) around. (32)

    Round 39: (CSC, DEC, CSC) around. (24)

    Stuff here, and continue to add stuffing as desired until you close it up.

    Round 40: (DEC, CSC) around. (16)

    Round 41: DEC around. (8)

    To finish: Fasten off with a long tail. Thread tail through a yarn needle and weave the needle in and out of the outer loops of the previous round, all the way around. Slowly pull circle closed. (Be careful if you’re using single-ply yarn, it breaks easily!)  

    Tie a knot, then hide knot and tail inside head.

    SNOUT

    To Begin: With COLOR B, CH4. 

    Round 1: Starting in 2nd CH from hook, and working into only the back loop of each chain stitch, INC, CSC, INC. Working around to the other side of the CH, and working in the unworked loops of each chain stitch, INC, CSC, INC. (10)

    Round 2: 2 INC, CSC, 4 INC, CSC, 2 INC. (18)

    Round 3: INC, CSC, INC, 2 CSC, (INC, CSC) 4 times, CSC, INC, CSC, INC, CSC. (26)

    Switch to COLOR A; fasten off COLOR B.

    Round 4: With a looser tension, SL ST in each ST around. (26)

    Rounds 5-6: CSC in each ST around. (26)

    To finish: SL ST in next ST. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Secure starting tail.

    ATTACHING THE SNOUT

    Use finishing tail to sew snout to head, stuffing as desired. Secure and hide end inside. The snout should cover the first 10 rounds of the head. Don’t go higher, or you’ll run into the area we’ll be adding the eyes. 

    EARS (make 2)

    To Begin: With COLOR A, CH9.

    Round 1: Starting in 2nd CH from hook, and working into only the back loop of each chain stitch, 8 CSC. Working around the chain to the other side, CSC in each unworked loop from the first 8 chains. (16)

    Round 2: INC, 6 CSC, 2 INC, 6 CSC, INC. (20)

    Rounds 3-5: CSC in each ST around. (20)

    Round 6: DEC, 6 CSC, 2 DEC, 6 CSC, DEC. (16)

    Round 7: DEC, 4 CSC, 2 DEC, 4 CSC, DEC. (12)

    Round 8: CSC in each ST around. (12)

    Round 9: (DEC, CSC) around. (8)

    Round 10: DEC in each ST around. (4)

    Fasten off. Thread tail through yarn needle and run needle across top of ear to close any visible hole; tie a knot and hide knot and tail inside ear.    

    ATTACHING THE EARS

    Cut a long length of COLOR A. Using your yarn needle, enter through a stitch on the back of the head and sew ear in place. Exit through the same stitch you first entered on the back of the head. Tie a knot with the tails and hide knot and tails inside head. 

    (I attached my ears halfway back on the head, starting about 6 rounds down from the top center of the head.)

    EMBROIDERING THE FACE

    EMBROIDERING THE SNOUT

    With a long length of thinner black yarn, enter through a stitch on the back of the head and draw two small lines on the snout. (Mine start at the center horizontal line of the snout and end one round higher, and are two stitches apart.) Exit through the same stitch you first entered on the back of the head. Tie a knot with the tails and hide knot and tails inside head.

    EMBROIDERING THE EYES + EYEBROWS

    PLACEMENT
    The eyes should start between Rounds 30 and 31 (10 and 11 if you’re counting up from the neck crease), and be 3 rounds tall, ending between Rounds 33 and 34 (or 13 and 14). They are 7 stitches apart.


    BLACK YARN

    Coming from the back of the head, start at the bottom and “draw” a line to the top (see “Placement” above for help with location). Come back out at the bottom.

    Repeat, using your finger to guide the new strand just to the right of the previous one.

    Repeat, using your finger to guide the new strand just to the left of the current strands.

    Continue to build out on each side until you are happy with the shape of the eye. Add an eyebrow, and exit through the same stitch you first entered on the back of the head.


    WHITE YARN

    Coming from the back of the head, draw a white line along the outer edge of the eye, from the top of the eye to the bottom. If it slips under the black yarn or isn’t prominent enough, repeat as needed. 

    Starting back at the top of the eye, draw a white line going into the eye the height of one row. Repeat so there are two white strands side-by-side. Exit through the same stitch you first entered on the back of the head.

    Repeat all steps for both eyes.

    When finished, be sure to secure each color at the back of the head and hide the ends inside it.

    SHAPING THE FACE

    Cut a long length of yarn (COLOR A) and thread it through a long yarn needle, then follow these steps carefully, using the picture as a guide. 

    • Insert needle at the base of the neck (1), and pull it out at the lower right part of the first eye (2). 
    • Insert it into the lower left part of the same eye (3), and pull it out of the same spot at the base of the neck where you first inserted it (1).
    • Move one stitch to the right (4) and insert needle, then pull it out at the lower left part of the 2nd eye (5).
    • Insert it into the lower right part of the same eye (6), and pull it out of the same spot at the base of the neck where you most recently inserted it (4).

    You should now have two ends coming out of the base of the neck. Gently pull them (at the same time) until you are happy with the indentation of the eyes, then tie them in a knot and hide the knot inside the head.

    TAIL

    To Begin: With COLOR A, CH9.

    Row 1: CSC in 2nd CH from hook. INC in each of the next 3 chains. 3 CSC in each of the remaining 4 chains. (19)

    To Finish: Fasten off, leaving a long finishing tail. Weave in starting tail.

    ATTACHING THE TAIL

    Use long finishing tail to sew tail to back of pig, about 5 rounds above the leg crease. (I sewed down the first 5 stitches at the base of the tail and left the rest loose.) Secure and hide end inside.

    You’re done!
    I hope you’ve enjoyed this pattern.
    Thank you for your support!

    Remember, you can get ad-free PDFs of all of my blog patterns by becoming a member.

  • Amigurumi Highland Cow

    Amigurumi Highland Cow

    In an email to my awesome community, I asked what type of plushie you wanted next. One of the most popular responses?

    A highland cow! 

    Originating from Scotland, these furry, friendly creatures have gained so much popularity in art and home decor in recent years. I’m just as smitten with them as anybody, so of course I had to answer the call for a highland cow pattern.

    I hope you love him as much as I do! 

    All-Access Pass

    Image shows a printout of the Amigurumi Panda pattern PDF.

    If you prefer working from the convenience of a beautiful, ad-free PDF pattern, consider becoming a Yarn + Chai All-Access Passholder. It’s a sweet, inexpensive deal that gives you access to all of my PDF patterns, including this one! (You even get most of them before they hit the blog!)

    And now, on to the pattern…

    AMIGURUMI HIGHLAND COW

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Crochet Language: American Standard

    Finished Size: 12″ tall

    Yarn: #5 (bulky) velvet or chenille yarn recommended. (Sample is made with Big Twist Baby Bear.) The approximate amounts needed are:

    • COLOR A (I used “Toffee”):  30 yds
    • COLOR B (I used “Brown Sugar”):  220 yds
    • WHITE FOR HORNS (I used “Powdered Sugar”):  20 yds

    You’ll also need a very small amount of thinner black yarn and white yarn for embroidering the eyes.

    Hook: 4.0mm (G) hook

    Gauge: 18 CSC x 20 rows = 4″ square

    You’ll also need: 
    Yarn needle (long)
    Polyester Fiber-Fill

    Terms and Abbreviations:

    • ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    • CH/CHS (chain/chains)
    • SL ST (slip stitch)
    • CSC (crossed single crochet: Insert your hook, yarn UNDER, draw yarn through stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops.)
    • BLO (back loop only) 
    • FLO (front loop only) 
    • INC (2 CSC in same ST)
    • DEC (Insert hook into FLO of ST, then immediately insert it into the FLO of the next ST as well; yarn UNDER, draw yarn through stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops.)

    Notes:
    (1) CHANGING COLORS    : In the stitch before a color change, complete the final step of the stitch with the new color; so you’ll work the stitch right before the change, and when it’s time to pull through the final loops, you’ll drop the first color and pull through with the new color.

    (2) When pattern instructs with a number followed by a stitch
    (ex: “5 CSC”), it means to work one CSC in each of the next 5 stitches (not to work 5 CSC in one stitch).

    (3) Repeats are represented in (parentheses). Make sure you complete everything in the parentheses before repeating it. For example:

    “(CSC, INC, CSC) 3 times”
    means
    CSC, INC, CSC | CSC, INC, CSC | CSC, INC, CSC

    (4) Yarn, hook size and gauge are only meant as a guide, and this pattern will work with any yarn you choose; just use a hook that is smaller than the yarn’s recommended size for a nice tight fabric, and keep in mind your yarn amounts and finished dimensions will be affected by any changes.

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    by becoming a member!


    INSTRUCTIONS

    ARMS (make 2)

    To Begin: With COLOR A, CH6.

    Round 1: Starting in 2nd CH from hook, and working into only the back loop of each chain stitch, INC, 3 CSC, INC. Working around the chain* to the other side: INC, 3 CSC, INC. (14)

    Round 2: INC, 5 CSC, INC, INC, 5CSC, INC. (18)

    Round 3: CSC in each ST around. (18)

    Switch to COLOR B; fasten off COLOR A.

    Round 4: With a loose tension, SL ST in BLO of each ST around. (18)

    Round 5: CSC in BLO of each ST around. (18)

    Rounds 6-8: CSC in each ST around. (18)

    Round 9: DEC, 16 CSC. (17)

    Round 10: DEC, 15 CSC. (16)

    Round 11: DEC, 14 CSC. (15)

    Round 12: DEC, 13 CSC. (14)

    Round 13: DEC, 12 CSC. (13)

    Round 14: DEC, 11 CSC. (12)

    Round 15: DEC, 10 CSC. (11)

    Round 16: DEC, 9 CSC. (10)

    To finish: Stuff lightly, then CSC closed by holding sides of opening together and working through both sets of corresponding loops across. (4 or 5 CSC, depending on the number you decide fits best; just be consistent with both arms.) Fasten off and hide ends inside. Set arms aside for later.

    Fasten off and hide ends inside. Set arms aside for later.

    LEGS (make 2)

    To Begin: With COLOR A, make a Magic Circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 7 CSC in MC. (7)

    Round 2: INC in each ST around. (14)

    Round 3: (INC, CSC) around. (21)

    Round 4: (CSC, INC, CSC) around. (28)

    Switch to COLOR B. Fasten off COLOR A.

    Round 5: With a loose tension, SL ST in BLO of each ST around. (28)

    Round 6: In BLO, (3 CSC, INC, 3 CSC) around. (32)

    Rounds 7-8: CSC in each ST around. (32)

    Round 9: (3 CSC, DEC, 3 CSC) around. (28)

    Round 10: 10 CSC, 4 DEC, 10 CSC. (24)

    Round 11: 8 CSC, 4 DEC, 8 CSC. (20)

    Rounds 12-22: CSC in each ST around. (20) 

    Fasten off. Add stuffing. (I stuff the bottom part of the leg quite densely, then lightly stuff the skinnier part and leave about 1/2” at the top completely unstuffed. This helps the legs stay flexible.)

    Continue on to BODY.

    BODY

    To Begin: Place legs side by side, fronts facing away from you. On the inner sides that sit closest together, locate the centermost stitch on each leg. With COLOR B, join legs together by joining yarn through top loops of BOTH opposing stitches; CH1.

    Round 1: CSC in same ST as your CH1 on the left leg, and moving clockwise, CSC in each remain- ing ST around left leg (20 CSC). Continue to the right leg, and CSC again in the same ST as your initial CH1; continue to CSC in each ST around the right leg (20 CSC). (40)

    NOTE: When you come to the part on each leg that has the “dropoff” created by the end of the final round, simply CSC until the dropoff and continue immediately to the next unworked stitch after it. (Pretend the dropoff isn’t even there.)

    (Photos show technique in a different yarn.)

    Round 2: In FLO for this round only, (INC, 3 CSC) around. (50)

    Rounds 3-11: CSC in each ST around. (50)

    Round 12: (4 CSC, DEC, 4 CSC) around. (45)

    Round 13: CSC in each ST around. (45)

    Round 14: (DEC, 7 CSC) around. (40)

    Round 15: CSC in each ST around. (40)

    Round 16: (3 CSC, DEC, 3 CSC) around. (35)

    Round 17: CSC in each ST around. (35)

    Round 18: (DEC, 5 CSC) around. (30)

    Along Round 18, use stitch markers to mark 4 or 5 STS for each arm (depending on how many STS you used to seam the arms).

    Round 19:  CSC in each ST around, attaching arms as you go by inserting hook into corresponding ST on arm AND body. (30)

    Round 20: (DEC, 3 CSC) around. (24)

    Stuff as desired. Continue on to “HEAD”.

    HEAD

    Continuing from Round 20 (BODY),

    Round 21: In FLO for this round only, (CSC, INC, CSC) around. (32)

    Round 22: (INC, 3 CSC) around. (40)

    Round 23: (2 CSC, INC, 2 CSC) around. (48)

    Round 24: (INC, 11 CSC) around. (52)

    Round 25-35: CSC in each ST around. (52)

    Round 36: (DEC, 11 CSC) around. (48)

    Round 37: (2 CSC, DEC, 2 CSC) around. (40)

    Round 38: (DEC, 3 CSC) around. (32)

    Round 39: (CSC, DEC, CSC) around. (24)

    Stuff here, and continue to add stuffing as desired until you close it up.

    Round 40: (DEC, CSC) around. (16)

    Round 41: DEC around. (8)

    To finish: Fasten off with a long tail. Thread tail through a yarn needle and weave the needle in and out of the outer loops of the previous round, all the way around. Slowly pull circle closed. (Be careful if you’re using single-ply yarn, it breaks easily!)  

    Tie a knot, then hide knot and tail inside head.

    SNOUT

    To Begin: With COLOR A, CH13. 

    Round 1: Starting in 2nd CH from hook, and working into only the back loop of each chain stitch, INC, 10 CSC, INC. Working around the chain to the other side: INC, 10 CSC, INC. (28)

    Round 2: 2 INC, 10 CSC, 4 INC, 10 CSC, 2 INC.  (36)

    Rounds 3-4: CSC in each ST around. (36)

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for attaching to head.


    NOSTRILS

    Use black yarn and a yarn needle to “draw” the nostrils, using photo for reference. 

    • The bottom of the nostrils begin at the line between Rounds 1 and 2, and are 6 stitches apart.
    • Each nostril ends one stitch up and one stitch over (leaning away from each other) from its starting point.
    • With the yarn needle, go up through the starting point and down through the ending point several times, alternating guiding each strand to the left and right of the strand before it, until you have formed a shape that you like. I used #5 weight yarn and 5 strands per nostril. 
    • When both nostrils are done, secure in back and trim. You can hide them inside the snout later.


    ATTACHING THE SNOUT

    Use finishing tail to sew snout to head, stuffing as desired. The bottom should be aligned with the crease of the neck, and the snout will cover approximately the bottom 9 rounds of the head.

    EARS (make 2)

    To Begin: With COLOR B, make a Magic Circle; CH1. 

    Round 1: 7 CSC in MC. (7)

    Round 2: INC in each ST around. (14)

    Round 3: (INC, CSC) around. (21)

    Round 4: (CSC, INC, CSC) around. (28)

    Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming and attaching. Weave in starting tail. Fold ear so that the “wrong side” of the stitches are facing each other and the finishing tail is at one end. Use a yarn needle to go through all 4 top loops of the nearest facing stitches. Come back the other way and repeat for the next 4 sets of matching stitches. Leave finishing tail for attaching to head. 

    ATTACHING THE EARS

    Use finishing tail to attach ears to sides of head. Mine are attached halfway back on the head, on Rounds 33 and 34 (13 and 14 if you’re counting up from the neck crease). The highlighted section should all be sewn and pressed against the head.

    HORNS (make 2)

    Stuff as you go.

    To Begin: With white or ivory yarn, make a Magic Circle; CH1. 

    Round 1: 4 CSC in MC. (4)

    Round 2: INC in each ST around. (8)

    Rounds 3-4: CSC in each ST around. (8) 

    Pause and secure your starting tail, making sure your MC is pulled closed. 

    Short Row*: TURN (do not chain). CSC in each of the first 4 STS, leaving the rest unworked. (4)

    *WHAT IS A SHORT ROW?

    A SHORT ROW is a row of stitches that ends short of the previous row/round’s stitch count, to help manipulate the crocheted fabric to curve in a way that crochet stitches don’t naturally do. It is often used in garment design, but as you can see, it is also very helpful in amigurumi, too!

    Round 5: TURN (do not chain). Across the row of 4 stitches: CSC, INC, INC, CSC. Jump down to the 4 unworked stitches from Round 4 and CSC in each. (10)

    Round 6: CSC in each ST around. (For the first CSC, you’ll have to jump back up to get to the next unworked stitch.) (10)

    Rounds 7-8: CSC in each ST around. (10)

    Rounds 9: (INC, CSC, INC, 2 CSC) 2 times. (14)

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail to attach to head.

    ATTACHING THE HORNS

    Use finishing tail to attach horns to sides of head. Mine are attached just above and slightly more forward than the ears. 

    EYES + SHAPING

    To embroider the eyes, you will need a yarn needle and small amounts of black and white yarn. The sample is made with #4 weight non-fur yarns, but I have used fur yarns as well and either work fine! You will also need a small amount of your main yarn (COLOR B) for shaping the face.

    For each color you use, enter through a stitch on the back of the head. When you’ve completed everything with that color, exit through the same stitch on the back of the head. Tie a knot and hide excess yarn inside the head.

    PLACEMENT

    The eyes will start between Rounds 30 and 31 (10 and 11 if you’re counting up from the neck crease), and are 3 rounds tall, ending between Rounds 33 and 34 (or 13 and 14). They are 6 stitches apart.


    BLACK YARN

    Coming from the back of the head, start at the bottom and “draw” a line to the top (see “Placement” above for help with location). Come back out at the bottom.

    Repeat, using your finger to guide the new strand just to the right of the previous one.

    Repeat, using your finger to guide the new strand just to the left of the current strands.

    Continue to build out on each side until you are happy with the shape of the eye. Add an eyebrow, and exit through the same stitch you first entered on the back of the head.


    WHITE YARN

    Coming from the back of the head, start at the top of the eye and draw a white line, going into the eye, the height of one row. Repeat so there are two white strands side-by-side.

    Draw a single white line along the outer edge of the eye, from the top of the eye to the bottom. (NOTE: For a more colorful eye, use a brightly colored yarn for this step instead!)

    When finished, be sure to secure each color at the back of the head and hide the ends inside it.

    SHAPING THE FACE

    Cut a long length of yarn (COLOR B) and thread it through a long yarn needle, then follow these steps carefully, using the picture as a guide. 

    • Insert needle at the base of the neck (1), and pull it out at the lower right part of the first eye (2). 
    • Insert it into the lower left part of the same eye (3), and pull it out of the same spot at the base of the neck where you first inserted it (1).
    • Move one stitch to the right (4) and insert needle, then pull it out at the lower left part of the 2nd eye (5).
    • Insert it into the lower right part of the same eye (6), and pull it out of the same spot at the base of the neck where you most recently inserted it (4).

    You should now have two ends coming out of the base of the neck. Gently pull them (at the same time) until you are happy with the indentation of the eyes, then tie them in a knot and hide the knot inside the head.

    HEAD FRINGE

    Cut several 4” strands of both COLOR A and COLOR B. Attach as fringe on the top of the head, then trim ends to about an inch. I aimed for approximately every other stitch or so, but you don’t have to be scientific about it. Highland cows are famous for their adorably disheveled look!


    HOW TO ATTACH FRINGE

    Using your hook, choose a single loop on the top of the head and draw a strand of cut yarn partway through it. (If I had trouble getting my hook under the yarn on the head, I used my yarn needle to help lift the loop up.)

    Insert the two ends of the strand through the loop you created.

    Gently pull the two ends apart to tighten the knot to the head.

    Trim as desired.

    TAIL

    To Begin: With COLOR B, make a Magic Circle; CH1. 

    Round 1: 4 CSC in MC. (4)

    Rounds 2-8: CSC in each ST around. (4)

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing to body.

    ATTACHING FRINGE

    As you did previously with the fringe on the top of the head, cut a handful of strands (I again used a mix of COLOR A and COLOR B). Attach them in the same manner around the closed end of the tail as desired. I attached fringe to the very tip as well as every stitch on the first round. 

    SEW IT ON

    Use finishing tail to sew the tail to the back of the body at approximately the 6th round up from the leg crease. Secure with a knot underneath the tail and hide excess yarn inside body. 

    You’re done!
    I hope you’ve enjoyed this pattern.
    Thank you for your support!

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  • Amigurumi Panda

    Amigurumi Panda

    I’m in my plushie era.

    Ever since I finished the Amigurumi Teddy Bear, I haven’t been able to stop thinking up new variations. I have a loooong list of future plushie patterns, everything from farm animals to jungle animals to fantasy creatures. If only I could publish as quickly as I can think!

    But alas, here we are at (published) amigurumi #2: the Panda. I think he’s so sweet!

    So if you’re ready to take on the (and I use this word very loosely) fun of black yarn, make sure you have a nice bright light and a good dose of patience, and scroll down for this adorable FREE pattern.

    All-Access Pass

    Image shows a printout of the Amigurumi Panda pattern PDF.

    If you prefer working from the convenience of a beautiful, ad-free PDF pattern, consider becoming a Yarn + Chai All-Access Passholder. It’s a sweet, inexpensive deal that gives you access to all of my PDF patterns, including this one! (You even get most of them before they hit the blog!)

    And now, on to the pattern…

    AMIGURUMI PANDA

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Crochet Language: American Standard

    Finished Size: 12″ tall

    Yarn: #5 (bulky) velvet or chenille yarn recommended. (Sample is made with Bernat Velvet and Big Twist Baby Bear.) The approximate amounts needed are:

    • COLOR A (BLACK)  (I used Bernat Velvet in “Blackbird”):  160 yds
    • COLOR B (WHITE)  (I used Big Twist Baby Bear in “Powdered Sugar”):  150 yds

    You’ll also need a very small amount of thinner black yarn and white yarn for embroidering the facial features.

    Hook: 4.0mm (G) hook

    Gauge: 18 CSC x 20 rows = 4″ square

    You’ll also need: 
    Yarn needle (long)
    Polyester Fiber-Fill
    (2) 15mm animal eyes

    Terms and Abbreviations:

    • ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    • CH/CHS (chain/chains)
    • SL ST (slip stitch)
    • CSC (crossed single crochet: Insert your hook, yarn UNDER, draw yarn through stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops.)
    • BLO (back loop only) 
    • FLO (front loop only) 
    • INC (2 CSC in same ST)
    • DEC (Insert hook into FLO of ST, then immediately insert it into the FLO of the next ST as well; yarn UNDER, draw yarn through stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops.)

    Notes:
    (1) CHANGING COLORS    : In the stitch before a color change, complete the final step of the stitch with the new color; so you’ll work the stitch right before the change, and when it’s time to pull through the final loops, you’ll drop the first color and pull through with the new color.

    (2) When pattern instructs with a number followed by a stitch
    (ex: “5 CSC”), it means to work one CSC in each of the next 5 stitches (not to work 5 CSC in one stitch).

    (3) Repeats are represented in (parentheses). Make sure you complete everything in the parentheses before repeating it. For example:

    “(CSC, INC, CSC) 3 times”
    means
    CSC, INC, CSC | CSC, INC, CSC | CSC, INC, CSC

    (4) Yarn, hook size and gauge are only meant as a guide, and this pattern will work with any yarn you choose; just use a hook that is smaller than the yarn’s recommended size for a nice tight fabric, and keep in mind your yarn amounts and finished dimensions will be affected by any changes.


    INSTRUCTIONS

    ARMS (make 2)

    To begin: With COLOR A, CH6.

    Round 1: Starting in 2nd CH from hook, and working into only the back loop of each chain stitch, INC, 3 CSC, INC. Working around the chain* to the other side: INC, 3 CSC, INC. (14)

    Round 2: INC, 5 CSC, INC, INC, 5CSC, INC. (18) 

    Rounds 3-8: CSC in each ST around. (18) 

    Round 9: DEC, 16 CSC. (17)

    Round 10: DEC, 15 CSC. (16)

    Round 11: DEC, 14 CSC. (15) 

    Round 12: DEC, 13 CSC. (14) 

    Round 13: DEC, 12 CSC. (13) 

    Round 14: DEC, 11 CSC. (12)

    Round 15: DEC, 10 CSC. (11) 

    Round 16: DEC, 9 CSC. (10)

    To finish: Stuff lightly, then CSC closed by holding sides of opening together and working through both sets of corresponding loops across. (4 or 5 CSC, depending on the number you decide fits best; just be consistent with both arms.)

    Fasten off and hide ends inside. Set arms aside for later.

    LEGS (make 2)

    To Begin: With COLOR A, make a Magic Circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 7 CSC in MC. (7)

    Round 2: INC in each ST around. (14)

    Round 3: (INC, CSC) around. (21)

    Round 4: (CSC, INC, CSC) around. (28)

    Round 5: In BLO, (3 CSC, INC, 3 CSC) around. (32)

    Rounds 6-7: CSC in each ST around. (32)

    Round 8: (3 CSC, DEC, 3 CSC) around. (28)

    Round 9: 10 CSC, 4 DEC, 10 CSC. (24)

    Round 10: 8 CSC, 4 DEC, 8 CSC. (20)

    Rounds 11-22: CSC in each ST around. (20) 

    Fasten off. Add stuffing. (I stuff the bottom part of the leg quite densely, then lightly stuff the skinnier part and leave about 1/2” at the top completely unstuffed. This helps the legs stay flexible.)

    Continue on to “BODY”.

    Continue on to BODY.

    BODY

    To Begin: Place legs side by side, fronts facing away from you. On the inner sides that sit closest together, locate the centermost stitch on each leg. With COLOR A, join legs together by joining yarn through top loops of BOTH opposing stitches; CH1.

    Round 1: CSC in same ST as your CH1 on the left leg, and moving clockwise, CSC in each remain- ing ST around left leg (20 CSC). Continue to the right leg, and CSC again in the same ST as your initial CH1; continue to CSC in each ST around the right leg (20 CSC). (40)

    NOTE: When you come to the part on each leg that has the “dropoff” created by the end of the final round, simply CSC until the dropoff and continue immediately to the next unworked stitch after it. (Pretend the dropoff isn’t even there.

    Switch to COLOR B; fasten off COLOR A.

    Round 2: With a looser tension, SL ST in each ST around. (40)

    Round 3: In BLO for this round only, (INC, 3 CSC) around. (50)

    Rounds 4-12: CSC in each ST around. (50)

    Round 13: (4 CSC, DEC, 4 CSC) around. (45)

    Round 14: CSC in each ST around. (45)

    Round 15: (DEC, 7 CSC) around. (40)

    Round 16: CSC in each ST around. (40)

    Switch to COLOR A; fasten off COLOR B.

    Round 17: With a looser tension, SL ST in BLO of each ST around. (40)

    Round 18: In BLO, (3 CSC, DEC, 3 CSC) around. (35)

    Round 19: CSC in each ST around. (35)

    Round 20: (DEC, 5 CSC) around. (30)

    Along Round 20, use stitch markers to mark 4 or 5 STS for each arm (depending on how many STS you used to seam the arms).

    Round 21:  CSC in each ST around, attaching arms as you go by inserting hook into corresponding ST on arm AND body. (30)

    Round 22: (DEC, 3 CSC) around. (24)

    Stuff as desired. Continue on to “HEAD”.

    HEAD

    Continuing from Round 22 (BODY), switch to COLOR B; fasten off COLOR A.

    Round 23: With a looser tension, SL ST in BLO of each ST around. (24)

    Round 24: In BLO, (CSC, INC, CSC) around. (32)

    Round 25: (INC, 3 CSC) around. (40)

    Round 26: (2 CSC, INC, 2 CSC) around. (48)

    Round 27: (INC, 11 CSC) around. (52)

    Round 28-38: CSC in each ST around. (52)

    Round 39: (DEC, 11 CSC) around. (48)

    Round 40: (2 CSC, DEC, 2 CSC) around. (40)

    Round 41: (DEC, 3 CSC) around. (32)

    Round 42: (CSC, DEC, CSC) around. (24)

    Stuff here, and continue to add stuffing as desired until you close it up.

    Round 43: (DEC, CSC) around. (16)

    Round 44: DEC around. (8)

    To finish: Fasten off with a long tail. Thread tail through a yarn needle and weave the needle in and out of the outer loops of the previous round, all the way around. Slowly pull circle closed. (Be careful if you’re using single-ply yarn, it breaks easily!)  

    Tie a knot, then hide knot and tail inside head.

    SNOUT

    To Begin: With COLOR B, CH4. 

    Round 1: Starting in 2nd CH from hook, and working into only the back loop of each chain stitch, INC, CSC, INC. Working around to the other side of the CH, and working in the unworked loops of each chain stitch, INC, CSC, INC. (10)

    Round 2: 2 INC, CSC, 4 INC, CSC, 2 INC. (18)

    Round 3: INC, CSC, INC, 2 CSC, (INC, CSC) 4 times, CSC, INC, CSC, INC, CSC. (26)

    Rounds 4-5: CSC in each ST around. (26)

    To finish: SL ST in next ST. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.


    ATTACHING THE SNOUT

    Use finishing tail to sew snout to face. Add stuffing when halfway around, and continue to add stuffing as desired until finished. Knot and hide finishing tail inside head.

    Bottom of snout should be just a round or two above the crease of the neck, extending up to about the 10th round of the head.

    EARS

    To Begin: With COLOR A, CH4.

    Round 1: Starting in 2nd CH from hook, and working into only the back loop of each chain stitch, INC, CSC, INC. Working around to the other side of the CH, and working in the unworked loops of each chain stitch, INC, CSC, INC. (10)

    Round 2: INC, 3 CSC, 2 INC, 3 CSC, INC. (14)

    Round 3: INC, 5 CSC, 2 INC, 5 CSC, INC. (18)

    Rounds 4-5: CSC in each ST around. (18)

    To finish: SL ST in each of the next 2 STS; remove hook. Secure and trim starting tail, then CSC ear closed by folding in half along the starting chain, and working through both sets of corresponding loops across. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. 

    ATTACHING THE EARS

    Use finishing tail to sew ears to sides of head. (Mine are attached halfway back on the head starting at the 4th round down from the top of the head.) Tie a knot at the base of the ear and hide knot and tail inside head.

    EYE PATCHES

    To Begin: With COLOR A, CH5. 

    Round 1: Starting in 2nd CH from hook, and working into only the back loop of each chain stitch, INC, 2 CSC, INC. Working around to the other side of the CH, and working in the unworked loops of each chain stitch, INC, 2 CSC, INC. (12)

    Round 2: 4 CSC in next ST, INC, DEC, INC, 4 CSC in next ST. SL ST in next ST and leave the rest unworked. (13 + SL ST)

    Fasten off with a long tail for sewing to face.

    ADDING THE EYES

    Attach eyes close to the edge of each eye patch, making sure to attach them at opposite ends as shown.

    ATTACHING THE EYE PATCHES

    Use finishing tail to sew eyes to face: Place eyes up against snout, with about 3-4 stitches between them above the snout. Secure tail with a knot; hide knot and tail inside head.

    FACIAL DETAILS

    EMBROIDERING THE NOSE

    Determine your nose placement. (The bottom point of mine starts between Rounds 2 and 3 of the snout, and the top edge is one round up from there, 4 stitches wide.) With COLOR A, entering from a stitch on the back of the head, “draw” the V that will form the bottom of the nose.

    Build in the nose by drawing several more lines that fill in the space between the V. All of the lines should meet at the bottom point of the V. (Tip: Don’t pull too tight, or you’ll start to warp the bottom of the nose.) Then, draw a line across the top to clean up the top edge.

    Exit the back of the head through the same stitch you entered, tie a knot, and hide the knot and tail inside the head.

    OUTLINING THE EYES

    With a thinner white yarn, and entering through the back of the head, partially outline the eyes as shown.Exit the back of the head through the same stitch you entered, tie a knot, and hide the knot and tail inside the head.

    ADDING THE MOUTH AND EYEBROWS

    With a thinner black yarn, and entering through the back of the head, draw the mouth and eyebrows as shown.Exit the back of the head through the same stitch you entered, tie a knot, and hide the knot and tail inside the head.

    SHAPING THE FACE

    Cut a long length of the thinner black yarn and thread it through a long yarn needle, then follow these steps carefully, using the picture as a guide. 

    • Insert needle at the base of the neck (1), and pull it out at the lower right part of the first eye (2). 
    • Insert it into the lower left part of the same eye (3), and pull it out of the same spot at the base of the neck where you first inserted it (1).
    • Move one stitch to the right (4) and insert needle, then pull it out at the lower left part of the 2nd eye (5).
    • Insert it into the lower right part of the same eye (6), and pull it out of the same spot at the base of the neck where you most recently inserted it (4).

    You should now have two ends coming out of the base of the neck. Gently pull them (at the same time) until you are happy with the indentation of the eyes, then tie them in a knot and hide the knot inside the head.

    TAIL

    To Begin: With COLOR A, make a Magic Circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 6 CSC in MC. (6)

    Round 2: INC in each ST around. (12)

    Rounds 3-5: CSC in each ST around. (12)

    To Finish: SL ST in next ST. Remove hook; secure and trim starting tail. Reinsert hook and CSC tail closed by holding sides of opening together, and working through both sets of corresponding loops across. (This is the same technique you used to seam the arms.) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. 

    ATTACHING THE TAIL

    Use pins to hold tail in place, if desired. Sew tail to back of body. (I sewed my tail so that the top was in line with Rounds 6-7 of the body.) When finished, knot and hide finishing tail inside body.

    That’s it!
    I hope you’ve enjoyed this pattern.
    Thank you for your support!

  • Amigurumi Teddy Bear

    Amigurumi Teddy Bear

    After what had been quite a long hiatus for the blog, the Yarn + Chai community joined me this summer for a fun crochet-along! The much loved pattern for this Amigurumi Teddy Bear is now available to all, and I hope you enjoy it as much as we did. You can join the Facebook group to see lots of finished bears, and jump in with those who are still working on theirs.

    If you’ve never done amigurumi before, I would suggest working up the pattern with non-furry yarn first. But if you’re comfortable with amigurumi or have played around with chenille or velvet yarns before, I highly recommend making this teddy bear as plush as can be! The finished bear will be so soft and sweet.

    All-Access Pass

    If you prefer working from the convenience of an ad-free PDF pattern, consider becoming a Yarn + Chai All-Access Passholder. It’s a sweet deal that gives you access to all of my PDF patterns, including this one!

    And now, on to the pattern…

    AMIGURUMI TEDDY BEAR

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Crochet Language: American Standard

    Finished Size: 12″ tall

    Yarn: #5 (bulky) velvet or chenille yarn recommended. (Sample is made with Luxe Velour by Juicy Couture.) The approximate amounts needed are:

    • COLOR A (I used “Frothy Fawn”): 185yds 
    • COLOR B( I used “Angel”): 12yds

    You’ll also need a very small amount of thinner black yarn and white yarn for facial features.

    Hook: 4.0mm (G) hook

    Gauge: 18 CSC x 20 rows = 4″ square

    You’ll also need: 
    Yarn needle (long)
    Polyester Fiber-Fill
    (2) 15mm animal eyes
    (1) 15mm animal nose

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    CH/CHS (chain/chains)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    CSC (crossed single crochet: Insert your hook, yarn UNDER, draw yarn through stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops.)
    BLO (back loop only) 
    FLO (front loop only) 
    INC (2 CSC in same ST)
    DEC (Insert hook into FLO of ST, then immediately insert it into the FLO of the next ST as well; yarn UNDER, draw yarn through stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops.)

    Notes:
    (1) CHANGING COLORS    : In the stitch before a color change, complete the final step of the stitch with the new color; so you’ll work the stitch right before the change, and when it’s time to pull through the final loops, you’ll drop the first color and pull through with the new color.

    (2) When pattern instructs with a number followed by a stitch
    (ex: “5 CSC”), it means to work one CSC in each of the next 5 stitches (not to work 5 CSC in one stitch).

    (3) Repeats are represented in (parentheses). Make sure you complete everything in the parentheses before repeating it. For example:

    “(CSC, INC, CSC) 3 times”
    means
    CSC, INC, CSC | CSC, INC, CSC | CSC, INC, CSC

    (4) Yarn, hook size and gauge are only meant as a guide, and this pattern will work with any yarn you choose; just use a hook that is smaller than the yarn’s recommended size for a nice tight fabric, and keep in mind your yarn amounts and finished dimensions will be affected by any changes.


    INSTRUCTIONS

    ARMS (make 2)

    To begin: With COLOR A, CH6.

    Round 1: Starting in 2nd CH from hook, and working into only the back loop of each chain stitch, INC, 3 CSC, INC. Working around the chain* to the other side: INC, 3 CSC, INC. (14)

    Round 2: INC, 5 CSC, INC, INC, 5CSC, INC. (18) 

    Rounds 3-8: CSC in each ST around. (18) 

    Round 9: DEC, 16 CSC. (17)

    Round 10: DEC, 15 CSC. (16)

    Round 11: DEC, 14 CSC. (15) 

    Round 12: DEC, 13 CSC. (14) 

    Round 13: DEC, 12 CSC. (13) 

    Round 14: DEC, 11 CSC. (12)

    Round 15: DEC, 10 CSC. (11) 

    Round 16: DEC, 9 CSC. (10)

    To finish: Stuff lightly, then CSC closed by holding sides of opening together and working through both sets of corresponding loops across. (4 or 5 CSC, depending on the number you decide fits best; just be consistent with both arms.)

    Fasten off and hide ends inside. Set arms aside for later.

    LEGS (make 2)

    To begin: With COLOR B, make a Magic Circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 7 CSC in MC. (7)

    Round 2: INC in each ST around. (14)

    Round 3: (INC, CSC) around. (21)

    Round 4: (CSC, INC, CSC) around. (28)

    Switch to COLOR A. Fasten off COLOR B.

    Round 5: With a loose tension, SL ST in BLO of each ST around. (28)

    Round 6: In BLO, (3 CSC, INC, 3 CSC) around. (32)

    Rounds 7-8: CSC in each ST around. (32)

    Round 9: (3 CSC, DEC, 3 CSC) around. (28)

    Round 10: 10 CSC, 4 DEC, 10 CSC. (24)

    Round 11: 8 CSC, 4 DEC, 8 CSC. (20)

    Rounds 12-22: CSC in each ST around. (20)

    Fasten off. Add stuffing. (I stuff the bottom part of the leg quite densely, then lightly stuff the skinni- er part and leave about 1/2” at the top competely unstuffed. This helps the legs stay flexible.)

    Continue on to BODY.

    BODY

    To Begin: Place legs side by side, fronts facing away from you. On the inner sides that sit closest together, locate the centermost stitch on each leg. With COLOR A, join legs together by joining yarn through top loops of BOTH opposing stitches; CH1.

    Round 1: CSC in same ST as your CH1 on the left leg, and moving clockwise, CSC in each remain- ing ST around left leg (20 CSC). Continue to the right leg, and CSC again in the same ST as your initial CH1; continue to CSC in each ST around the right leg (20 CSC). (40)

    NOTE: When you come to the part on each leg that has the “dropoff” created by the end of the final round, simply CSC until the dropoff and continue immediately to the next unworked stitch after it. (Pretend the dropoff isn’t even there.

    Round 2: In FLO for this round only, (INC, 3 CSC) around. (50) 

    Rounds 3-11: CSC in each ST around. (50)

    Round 12: (4 CSC, DEC, 4 CSC) around. (45)

    Round 13: CSC in each ST around. (45)

    Round 14: (DEC, 7 CSC) around. (40) 

    Round 15: CSC in each ST around. (40) 

    Round 16: (3 CSC, DEC, 3 CSC) around. (35) 

    Round 17: CSC in each ST around. (35) 

    Round 18: (DEC, 5 CSC) around. (30)

    Stuff. Then, along Round 18, use stitch markers to mark 4 or 5 STS for each arm (depending on how many STS you used to seam the arms).

    Round 19: CSC in each ST around, attaching arms as you go by inserting hook into corresponding ST on arm AND body. (30)

    Round 20: (DEC, 3 CSC) around. (24)

    HEAD

    Round 21: In FLO for this round only, (CSC, INC, CSC) around. (32)

    Round 22: (INC, 3 CSC) around. (40)

    Round 23: (2 CSC, INC, 2 CSC) around. (48)

    Round 24: (INC, 11 CSC) around. (52)

    Round 25-35: CSC in each ST around. (52)

    Pause and add the eyes between Rounds 31 and 32. I placed mine 8 stitches apart.

    Round 36: (DEC, 11 CSC) around. (48)

    Round 37: (2 CSC, DEC, 2 CSC) around. (40)

    Round 38: (DEC, 3 CSC) around. (32)

    Round 39: (CSC, DEC, CSC) around. (24)

    Stuff here, and continue to add stuffing as desired until you close it up

    Round 40: (DEC, CSC) around. (16)

    Round 41: DEC around. (8)

    To finish: Fasten off with a long tail. Thread tail through a yarn needle and weave the needle in and out of the outer loops of the previous round, all the way around. Slowly pull circle closed. (Be careful if you’re using single-ply yarn, it breaks easily!)

    Tie a knot, then hide knot and tail inside head.

    SNOUT

    To Begin: With COLOR B, CH4.

    Round 1: Starting in 2nd CH from hook, and working into only the back loop of each chain stitch, INC, CSC, INC. Working around to the other side of the CH, and working in the unworked loops of each chain stitch, INC, CSC, INC. (10)

    Round 2: 2 INC, CSC, 4 INC, CSC, 2 INC. (18)

    Round 3: INC, CSC, INC, 2 CSC, (INC, CSC) 4 times, CSC, INC, CSC, INC, CSC. (26)

    Rounds 4-5: CSC in each ST around. (26)

    To finish: SL ST in next ST. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Weave in starting tail.

    MOUTH and NOSE

    Use thin black yarn to “draw” the mouth, using photos for reference.

    • Vertical line starts between Rounds 2 and 3 above the middle of the snout, and ends between Rounds 1 and 2 below the middle of the snout.
    • Horizontal line is actually two lines beginning from 2 stitches to the right and left of the bottom of the vertical line, and meeting at the bottom of the vertical line.
    • Safety nose is inserted at the top of the vertical line.
      Secure tails and trim so they’ll be able to be hidden inside the snout.


    ATTACHING THE SNOUT

    Use pins to hold snout in place, if desired.

    • Top of snout should be just slightly above the bottom of the eyes
    • Sides of snout should be just about lined up with the outer edges of the eyes
    • Bottom of snout should be just a round or two above the crease of the neck

    Use finishing tail to sew snout to face. Add stuffing when halfway around, and continue to add stuffing as desired until finished. Knot and hide finishing tail inside head.

    EARS

    To Begin: With COLOR A, CH4.

    Rounds 1-3: Follow instructions (Rounds 1-3) from SNOUT.

    Round 4: (2 CSC, INC) 2 times. CSC. (2 CSC, INC) 4 times. CSC. (2 CSC, INC) 2 times. (34)

    Rounds 5-6: CSC in each ST around. (34)

    To finish: SL ST in each of the next 2 STS; remove hook. Secure and trim starting tail, then CSC ear closed by folding in half along the starting chain, and working through both sets of corresponding loops across. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

    ATTACHING THE EARS

    Use pins to hold ears in place, if desired. Sew the seamed side of the ears to the head in desired placement. When finished, knot and hide tail inside head.

    • The ears should be toward the lower part of the top left and top right quadrants (see photo).
    • Ears should be placed about halfway back on the head, in line with the middle of the arm below them.

    TAIL

    To Begin: With COLOR A, make a Magic Circle; CH1. 

    Round 1: 6 CSC in MC. (6)

    Round 2: INC in each ST around. (12)

    Rounds 3-5: CSC in each ST around. (12)

    To Finish: SL ST in next ST. Remove hook; secure and trim starting tail. Reinsert hook and CSC tail closed by holding sides of opening to- gether, and working through both sets of corresponding loops across. (This is the same technique you used to seam the arms.) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

    ATTACHING THE TAIL

    Use pins to hold tail in place, if desired. Sew tail to back of body.

    • I sewed my tail so that the top was in line with Rounds 6-7 of the body. When finished, knot and hide finishing tail inside body.

    SHAPING THE HEAD

    Cut a long length of yarn (COLOR A) and thread it through a long yarn needle, then follow these steps carefully, using the picture as a guide. (My yarn has been highlighted in yellow.)

    • Insert needle at the base of the neck (1), and pull it out at the lower right part of the first eye (2). (When working near the eyes, try to get your needle as close to the eye as you can.)
    • Insert it into the lower left part of the same eye (3), and pull it out of the same spot at the base of the neck where you first inserted it (1).
    • Move one stitch to the right (4) and insert hook, then pull it out at the lower left part of the 2nd eye (5).
    • Insert it into the lower right part of the same eye (6), and pull it out of the same spot at the base of the neck where you most recently inserted it (4).You should now have two ends coming out of the base of the neck. Gently pull them (at the same time) until you are happy with the indentation of the eyes, then tie them in a knot and hide the knot inside the head.

    (Notice how pulling on the yarn brings the eyes closer to the snout.)

    FINISHING TOUCHES

    My favorite part of this pattern is adding the finishing touches at the end. With just a few well- placed bits of yarn, you can take your teddy bear to the next level of cuteness.

    Adding these facial features is simply a matter of “drawing” with yarn. For each color, cut a long strand, insert somewhere on the head, draw the desired lines, and exit out the same place you entered. Tie ends in a knot and hide the knot inside the head. That’s it!

    Use the photos to guide you, or make it your own by experimenting with different placements. If you don’t like what you do, just take it out and try again.

    I hope you’ve enjoyed this pattern.
    Thank you for your support!

  • I Saw That – Santa Wall Hanging

    I Saw That – Santa Wall Hanging

    With October behind us, it’s (gasp) time to start thinking winter vibes! Fall is my favorite season, but winter is definitely a close second. Because CHRISTMAS!

    We don’t go crazy with Santa stuff at our house, but he does bring one gift to each of our kids on Christmas morning. (The 6 year old is the only one who still believes… but the 11 and 13 year olds play along for his sake.) And I’ve never been a huge fan of the whole “be good or you won’t get presents” thing, but when I recently saw some wall art at a store that featured a spying Santa and the “I Saw That” phrase, I laughed out loud and knew I wanted to create a crocheted wall hanging version! I showed it to my older boys, and they got a kick out of it, too.

    So while this particular finished piece will probably sit in Christmas storage until my youngest grows out of Santa and can appreciate the silly joke, I thought I’d share the pattern for it with all of you!

    I used a wooden dowel from the craft store for my wall hanging, but you could also use a strong stick from your yard. And while I embellished mine with tassels, you could do fringe instead. Make it your own!


    Prefer Working From an Ad-Free PDF?

    This pattern chart is also available as an ad-free, printable PDF for All-Access Passholders. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here.

    You can purchase the All-Access Pass, or scroll on to view the pattern right here on the blog.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    “I Saw That” Santa Wall Hanging

    View on Ravelry

    Difficulty: Easy

    Crochet Language: American Standard

    Finished Size:
    19.5″ tall x 7.5″ wide (not including tassels or dowel)

    Yarn: 
    #4 medium weight acrylic yarn recommended. The approximate amounts and colors I used are:

    COLOR A (ivory): 110 yds

    COLOR B (white): 35 yds

    COLOR C (mauve): 2 yds

    COLOR D (pale pink): 15 yds

    COLOR E (red): 25 yds

    COLOR F (black): 10 yds

    Hook:
    5.0mm (H) hook

    Gauge:
    16 SC x 18 rows = 4”

    You’ll also need: 12″ dowel (or stick cut to size)

    Terms and Abbreviations:

    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    CH (chain)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SC (single crochet)
    YO (yarn over)
    SURFACE CROCHET (slip stitching across the top of the crocheted fabric – Repeat Crafter Me has a great tutorial here)

    Pattern Notes:
    (1) CH1s at the beginning of rows/rounds do not count as stitches.
    (2) CHANGING COLORS: In the stitch before a color change, complete the final step of the stitch with the new color; sp you’ll work the stitch, and when it’s time to pull through the final loops, you’ll drop the first color and pull through with the new color.
    (3) READING THE CHART: Odd-numbered rows are worked right-to-left, and even-numbered rows are worked left-to-right. You’ll begin in the bottom-right corner of the chart.
    (4) CARRYING YARN: For this project, I did not carry any yarn within stitches of different colors. If I only needed to drop a color for a handful of stitches, I simply picked it back up again when it was time.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    INSTRUCTIONS FOR WALL HANGING

    With COLOR A, CH31.

    Row 1: Beginning in 2nd CH from hook, SC across. (30)

    Rows 2-90: CH1, turn; complete corresponding row on Color Chart A.* (You’ve already completed chart Row 1.) (30)  

    COLOR CHART A (Click chart to enlarge):

    Once you’ve completed the first chart, fasten off. Weave any ends into the back of the project.

    Use the next chart to add the black “I SAW THAT” lettering and the red and white borders on the top and bottom of the project. The lettering is done with surface crochet using a crochet hook (see pattern notes above for a link to a tutorial); the borders are done with a yarn needle (one color at a time).

    COLOR CHART B (Click chart to enlarge):

    Secure all ends into the back of the project.

    Complete the following:

    • Block project (optional, recommended)
    • Add tassels or fringe (optional)
    • Attach project to dowel

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    That’s it!

    I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your project on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design!

  • Cozy Pines Wall Hanging

    Cozy Pines Wall Hanging

    It seems like a lot of you are really enjoying the fall-themed wall hangings I’ve designed recently (see here and here), and since I can’t get enough of them either, I thought it was a good time to start looking toward the next season!

    Perfect for Christmas but neutral enough to last the whole winter through, this cute new design features three pine trees framed at the top and bottom by black, white, and gray plaid, a popular holiday home decor trend.

    I used a strong stick from my yard for the dowel, but you could use a regular wooden dowel found at most craft stores. And while I embellished mine with tassels, you could do fringe instead. Make it your own!


    Blog Version vs. PDF Version

    I’ll say this up front: While I normally try to create my ad-free PDF versions of my blog patterns as similarly to the blog version itself as I can, in this case, the PDF version is packed with helpful tips and info that I just couldn’t reasonably fit into the blog post without it getting long and confusing. So with that said…

    If you’ve never made a bobble stitch wall hanging before, I recommend you work from the ad-free PDF version of this pattern which is available to All-Access Passholders.

    Here’s what you’ll get in the PDF:

    • How to follow a color chart
    • How to make tassels (photo tutorial)
    • How to attach the dowel (photo tutorial)
    • Enlarged printable version of the color chart
    • No ads

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here.

    You can purchase the All-Access Pass, or scroll on to view the pattern right here on the blog.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Cozy Pines Wall Hanging

    View on Ravelry

    Difficulty: Easy

    Crochet Language: American Standard

    Finished Size:
    17″ tall x 12″ wide

    Yarn: 
    #4 medium weight acrylic yarn recommended. The approximate amounts and colors I used are:

    COLOR A (gray): 40 yds
    I Love This Yarn in “Grey Beard”

    COLOR B (black): 25 yds
    I Love This Yarn in “Black” 

    COLOR C (white): 150 yds
    I Love This Yarn in “White“

    COLOR D (brown): 5 yds
    Loops & Threads Impeccable Tweed in “Walnut”

    COLOR E (lighter green): 20 yds
    Loops & Threads Impeccable in “Forest”

    COLOR F (darker green): 30 yds
    Loops & Threads Impeccable in “Deep Forest”

    Hook:
    5.0mm (H) hook

    Gauge:
    16 SC x 18 rows = 4”

    You’ll also need: Stick or wooden dowel cut to 14”

    Terms and Abbreviations:

    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    CH (chain)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SC (single crochet)
    YO (yarn over)
    BOBBLE STITCH
    1: YO and insert the hook into the stitch
    2: YO and pull up a loop
    3: YO and pull through the first 2 loops on the hook 
    4: Repeat 1-3 four more times until you have 6 loops on the hook
    5: YO and pull through all 6 loops

    Notes about the Bobble Stitch: 
    (1) Bobble stitches will always be followed by a single crochet (SC) of the same color.
    (2) Bobble stitches are worked on the “wrong side” of the pattern, but the bobble will show up on the correct side.

    Pattern Notes:
    (1) CH1s at the beginning of rows/rounds do not count as stitches.
    (2) CHANGING COLORS: In the stitch before a color change, complete the final step of the stitch with the new color. In this pattern, the stitch before a color change will always be a single crochet; so you’ll work the stitch, and when it’s time to pull through the final loops, you’ll drop the first color and pull through with the new color.
    (3) READING THE CHART: Odd-numbered rows are worked right-to-left, and even-numbered rows are worked left-to-right. You’ll begin in the bottom-right corner of the chart.
    (4) CARRYING YARN: For this project, I carried my yarn through the plaid sections (dropping whichever of the three colors I wasn’t using on that row, and picking it back up again when needed). For the tree area, I carried the background color (white) throughout, but only carried the tree colors across a single row of a single tree, fastening them off when finished with then and rejoining when needed in the next row.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    INSTRUCTIONS FOR WALL HANGING

    With COLOR A, CH49.

    Row 1: Beginning in 2nd CH from hook, (4 SC in COLOR A, 4 SC in COLOR B) across. (48)

    Rows 2-74: CH1, turn; complete corresponding row on color chart.* (You’ve already completed chart Row 1.) (48)  

    (Click chart to enlarge.)

    Once you’ve completed the chart, fasten off. 

    Complete the following:

    • Relocate all yarn ends to the back of the project and weave in.
    • Block project (optional, recommended)
    • Add tassels or fringe (optional)
    • Attach project to dowel

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    That’s it!

    I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your project on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design!

  • Autumn Tree Wall Hanging

    Autumn Tree Wall Hanging

    For the fall-lovers out there, here’s a new bobble stitch wall hanging design — a cozy late-autumn tree with falling leaves. Framed at the top and bottom by plaid in shades of brown and ivory, the tree in the center can be changed to represent your favorite fall hues!

    I used a strong stick from my yard for the dowel, but you could use a regular wooden dowel found at most craft stores. And while I embellished mine with tassels, you could do fringe instead. Make it your own!

    (And if you like this one, check out my previous pattern release — the Autumn Pumpkin Wall Hanging!)


    Blog Version vs. PDF Version

    I’ll say this up front: While I normally try to create my ad-free PDF versions of my blog patterns as similarly to the blog version itself as I can, in this case, I’ll say this up front: While I normally try to create my ad-free PDF versions of my blog patterns as similarly to the blog version itself as I can, in this case, the PDF version is packed with helpful tips and info that I just couldn’t reasonably fit into the blog post without it getting long and confusing. So with that said…

    If you’ve never made a bobble stitch wall hanging before, I recommend you work from the ad-free PDF version of this pattern which is available to All-Access Passholders.

    Here’s what you’ll get in the PDF:

    • How to follow a color chart
    • How to make tassels (photo tutorial)
    • How to attach the dowel (photo tutorial)
    • Enlarged printable version of the color chart
    • No ads

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here.

    You can purchase the All-Access Pass, or scroll on to view the pattern right here on the blog.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Autumn Tree Wall Hanging

    View on Ravelry

    Difficulty: Easy

    Crochet Language: American Standard

    Finished Size:
    17″ tall x 12″ wide

    Yarn: 
    #4 medium weight acrylic yarn recommended. The approximate amounts and colors I used are:

    COLOR A (lighter brown): 40 yds
    Loops & Threads Impeccable Tweed in “Chocolate”

    COLOR B (darker brown): 55 yds
    Loops & Threads Impeccable Tweed in “Walnut”

    COLOR C (ivory tweed): 120 yds
    Loops & Threads Impeccable Tweed in “Aran“

    COLOR D (yellow): 60 yds
    Yarn Bee Soft & Sleek in “Mustard”

    COLOR E (orange tweed): 15 yds
    Yarn Bee Rustic Romantic in “Pumpkin Spice”

    Hook:
    5.0mm (H) hook

    Gauge:
    16 SC x 18 rows = 4”

    You’ll also need: Stick or wooden dowel cut to 14”

    Terms and Abbreviations:

    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    CH (chain)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SC (single crochet)
    YO (yarn over)
    BOBBLE STITCH
    1: YO and insert the hook into the stitch
    2: YO and pull up a loop
    3: YO and pull through the first 2 loops on the hook 
    4: Repeat 1-3 four more times until you have 6 loops on the hook
    5: YO and pull through all 6 loops

    Notes about the Bobble Stitch: 
    (1) Bobble stitches will always be followed by a single crochet (SC) of the same color.
    (2) Bobble stitches are worked on the “wrong side” of the pattern, but the bobble will show up on the correct side.

    Pattern Notes:
    (1) CH1s at the beginning of rows/rounds do not count as stitches.
    (2) CHANGING COLORS: In the stitch before a color change, complete the final step of the stitch with the new color. In this pattern, the stitch before a color change will always be a single crochet; so you’ll work the stitch, and when it’s time to pull through the final loops, you’ll drop the first color and pull through with the new color.
    (3) READING THE CHART: Odd-numbered rows are worked right-to-left, and even-numbered rows are worked left-to-right. You’ll begin in the bottom-right corner of the chart.
    (4) CARRYING YARN: For this project, I carried my yarn through the plaid sections (dropping whichever of the three colors I wasn’t using on that row, and picking it back up again when needed). For the tree area, I carried the background color (the ivory tweed) throughout, but only carried the colors of the tree if I only needed to carry them for a few stitches; otherwise I just fastened off and rejoined when needed.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    INSTRUCTIONS FOR WALL HANGING

    With COLOR A, CH49.

    Row 1: Beginning in 2nd CH from hook, (4 SC in COLOR A, 4 SC in COLOR B) across. (48)

    Rows 2-74: CH1, turn; complete corresponding row on color chart.* (You’ve already completed chart Row 1.) (48)  

    (Click chart to enlarge.)

    Once you’ve completed the chart, fasten off. 

    Complete the following:

    • Relocate all yarn ends to the back of the project and weave in.
    • Block project (optional, recommended)
    • Add tassels or fringe (optional)
    • Attach project to dowel

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    That’s it!

    I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your project on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design!

  • Autumn Pumpkin Wall Hanging

    Autumn Pumpkin Wall Hanging

    It’s official. I’m obsessed with crocheted wall hangings.

    The design possibilities are so endless that I can’t believe it’s taken me this long to create my own!

    So for my 2nd wall hanging pattern (the first being the “Welcome” Wall Hanging), I present to you this cozy, rustic autumn pumpkin decor piece! Framed at the top and bottom by a bit of plaid in shades of ivory and brown, the orange bobble stitch pumpkin is the focal point of this design.

    I combined two different brands of acrylic tweed yarn to achieve the color palette I had in my head, and it didn’t give me any issues. The orange and dark brown are both Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic (Hobby Lobby), and the ivory and lighter brown are from Loops & Threads’ Impeccable Tweed line (Michael’s). The ivory color from Impeccable has flecks of brown and orange in it that pull all of the colors together… almost like it was meant to be!

    There are lots of other tweed yarns out there, too, so use what you have available to you. You could even skip the tweed look altogether and opt for a cleaner, sleeker look with solid colors. (I debated doing a white base with white/gray/black plaid, but I think I’m going to save that look for a future design.)

    I used a strong stick from my yard for the dowel, but you could use a regular wooden dowel found at most craft stores. And while I embellished mine with tassels, you could do fringe instead. Make it your own!


    Blog Version vs. PDF Version

    I’ll say this up front: While I normally try to create my ad-free PDF versions of my blog patterns as similarly to the blog version itself as I can, in this case, the PDF version is packed with helpful tips and info that I just couldn’t reasonably fit into the blog post without it getting long and confusing. So with that said…

    If you’ve never made a bobble stitch wall hanging before, I recommend you work from the ad-free PDF version of this pattern which is available to All-Access Passholders.

    Here’s what you’ll get in the PDF:

    • How to follow a color chart
    • How to make tassels (photo tutorial)
    • How to attach the dowel (photo tutorial)
    • Enlarged printable version of the color chart
    • No ads

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here.

    You can purchase the All-Access Pass, or scroll on to view the pattern right here on the blog.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Autumn Pumpkin Wall Hanging

    View on Ravelry

    Difficulty: Easy

    Crochet Language: American Standard

    Finished Size:
    17″ tall x 12″ wide

    Yarn: 
    #4 medium weight acrylic yarn recommended. The approximate amounts and colors I used are:

    COLOR A: 45 yds
    Loops & Threads Impeccable Tweed in “Taupe”

    COLOR B: 40 yds
    Yarn Bee Rustic Romantic in “Barnwood Fence” 

    COLOR C: 175 yds
    Loops & Threads Impeccable Tweed in “Aran“

    COLOR D: 75 yds
    Yarn Bee Rustic Romantic in “Pumpkin Spice”

    Hook:
    5.0mm (H) hook

    Gauge:
    16 SC x 18 rows = 4”

    You’ll also need: Stick or wooden dowel cut to 14”

    Terms and Abbreviations:

    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    CH (chain)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SC (single crochet)
    YO (yarn over)
    BOBBLE STITCH
    1: YO and insert the hook into the stitch
    2: YO and pull up a loop
    3: YO and pull through the first 2 loops on the hook 
    4: Repeat 1-3 four more times until you have 6 loops on the hook
    5: YO and pull through all 6 loops

    Notes about the Bobble Stitch: 
    (1) Bobble stitches will always be followed by a single crochet (SC) of the same color.
    (2) Bobble stitches are worked on the “wrong side” of the pattern, but the bobble will show up on the correct side.

    Pattern Notes:
    (1) CH1s at the beginning of rows/rounds do not count as stitches.
    (2) CHANGING COLORS: In the stitch before a color change, complete the final step of the stitch with the new color. In this pattern, the stitch before a color change will always be a single crochet; so you’ll work the stitch, and when it’s time to pull through the final loops, you’ll drop the first color and pull through with the new color.
    (3) READING THE CHART: Odd-numbered rows are worked right-to-left, and even-numbered rows are worked left-to-right. You’ll begin in the bottom-right corner of the chart.
    (4) CARRYING YARN: For this project, I carried my yarn through the plaid sections (dropping whichever of the three colors I wasn’t using on that row, and picking it back up again when needed). For the pumpkin area, I carried the background color (aran) throughout, but only carried the pumpkin color (orange) across a single row, fastening it off when finished with it and rejoining when needed in the next row.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    INSTRUCTIONS FOR WALL HANGING

    With COLOR A, CH49.

    Row 1: Beginning in 2nd CH from hook, (4 SC in COLOR A, 4 SC in COLOR B) across. (48)

    Rows 2-74: CH1, turn; complete corresponding row on color chart.* (You’ve already completed chart Row 1.) (48)  

    (Click chart to enlarge.)

    Once you’ve completed the chart, fasten off. 

    Complete the following:

    • Relocate all yarn ends to the back of the project and weave in.
    • Block project (optional, recommended)
    • Add tassels or fringe (optional)
    • Attach project to dowel

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    That’s it!

    I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your project on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design!

  • Welcome Wall Hanging

    Welcome Wall Hanging

    Pattern Errata
    (7.6.23) Pattern had incorrect stitch count. Current stitch count is correct.
    (7.9.23) WELCOME chart fixed. Current chart is correct.

    Making that project got me really excited about wall hangings, so I decided to create my first pattern for one!


    Blog Version vs. PDF Version

    I’ll say this up front: While I normally try to create my ad-free PDF versions of my blog patterns as similarly to the blog version itself as I can, in this case, the PDF version is packed with helpful tips and info that I just couldn’t reasonably fit into the blog post without it getting long and confusing. So with that said…

    If you’ve never made a bobble stitch wall hanging before, I recommend you work from the ad-free PDF version of this pattern which is available to All-Access Passholders.

    Here’s what you’ll get in the PDF:

    • How to follow a color chart
    • The “tie-and-trim” method (photo tutorial)
    • How to add fringe (photo tutorial)
    • How to attach the dowel (photo tutorial)
    • Enlarged printable version of the color chart
    • No ads

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here.

    You can purchase the All-Access Pass, or scroll on to view the pattern right here on the blog.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    “WELCOME” Wall Hanging

    View on Ravelry

    Difficulty: Easy

    Crochet Language: American Standard

    Finished Size:
    Wall hanging: 31.5” tall x  6.75” wide (not including fringe)
    Flower: 3.5” x 3.5”

    Yarn: 
    #4 medium weight acrylic yarn recommended.

    Wall hanging:
    250 yards of COLOR A (base) – I used Impeccable in “Putty”
    50 yards of COLOR B (letters) – I used Impeccable in “White”

    Flower:
    5 yards for center of flower – I used Rustic Romantic in “Barnwood Fence”
    20 yards for petals – I used Impeccable in “Butterscotch”

    Hook:
    Wall hanging: 5.0mm (H) hook
    Flower: 4.5mm (G/7) hook

    Gauge:
    Wall hanging: 16 SC x 18 rows = 4”
    Flower: First 3 rounds should measure about 1.125” across

    You’ll also need: Wooden dowel cut to 8”

    Terms and Abbreviations:

    MC (magic circle – tutorial here)
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    CH (chain)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    YO (yarn over)
    FLO (front loop only)
    BLO (back loop only)

    BOBBLE STITCH
    1: YO and insert the hook into the st
    2: YO and pull up a loop
    3: YO and pull through the first 2 loops on the hook 
    4: Repeat 1-3 four more times until you have 6 loops on the hook
    5: YO and pull through all 6 loops

    Notes about the Bobble Stitch: 
    (1) Bobble stitches will always be followed by a single crochet (SC) of the same color.
    (2) Bobble stitches are worked on the “wrong side” of the pattern, but the bobble will show up on the correct side.

    Pattern Notes:
    (1) CH1s at the beginning of rows/rounds do not count as stitches.
    (2) Instructions for the “O” in WELCOME are included in the chart in case you opt to not attach a flower there. 
    (3) CHANGING COLORS: In the stitch before a color change, complete the final step of the stitch with the new color. In this pattern, the stitch before a color change will always be a single crochet; so you’ll work the stitch, and when it’s time to pull through the final loops, you’ll drop the first color and pull through with the new color.
    (4) Reading the chart: Odd-numbered rows are worked right-to-left, and even-numbered rows are worked left-to-right.
    (5) Carrying colors: Whenever I was using COLOR B (white), I did carry COLOR A (ivory) along because it is well-hidden in the bobble stitches. I did not, however, carry COLOR B (white) at all; I simply cut it when I was done with it, and rejoined a new strand when I needed it again.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    INSTRUCTIONS FOR WALL HANGING

    To begin: With COLOR A, CH25.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (24)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC across. (24)

    Rows 3-137: CH1, turn; complete corresponding row on color chart. (24)

    (click chart to enlarge)

    When you complete the chart, fasten off. Weave in COLOR A ends. 

    Complete the following:

    • Secure COLOR B ends with “Tie-and-Trim” method (use yarn needle to relocate all ends to back side of project, then tie nearby ends together with a knot and trim to half an inch or less)
    • Block project (optional, recommended)
    • Add fringe (you’ll need at least 24 8″ strands)
    • Attach flower (optional — pattern below)
    • Attach project to dowel

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    INSTRUCTIONS FOR FLOWER

    Reference these instructions when pattern calls for front or back petals:

    FRONT Petal Instructions: SL ST to FLO of next ST, CH6, SC in 3rd CH from hook, HDC in each of the 3 remaining CHS, SL ST in FLO of same ST you started in.

    BACK Petal Instructions:
    SL ST to BLO of next ST, CH7, SC in 3rd CH from hook, HDC in each of the 4 remaining CHS, SL ST in BLO of same ST you started in.

    To begin: To begin: With BROWN YARN, make a magic circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 5 SC in MC. Join. (5)

    Round 2: CH1. 2 SC in each ST around. Join. (10)

    Round 3: CH1. 2 SC in first ST, SC in next ST, (2 SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. Insert hook into first ST of the round to begin your join, switch to YELLOW YARN, and complete join. (15)

    Fasten off BROWN YARN, leaving a long tail for attaching flower to project (if desired).

    Round 4-A (1st Round of Petals): SL ST into FLO of first ST. (Mark the unworked BACK loop of the stitch with a stitch marker or bobby pin; it will come in handy later.) CH6, SC in 3rd CH from hook, HDC in each of the 3 remaining CHS, SL ST in FLO of the same stitch you started in; this is your first petal. 

    Complete “Front Petal Instructions” once in each of the next 3 STS. SK next ST. Complete “Front Petal Instructions” once in each of the next 4 STS. SK next ST. Complete “Front Petal Instructions” once in each of the next 5 STS. 

    You should now have 13 petals total.

    Turn flower over and notice the unworked back loops from Round 3, starting with the loop we marked with a stitch marker; we’ll be doing our second round of petals along these back loops.

    Round 4-B (2nd Round of Petals): CH1. SL ST into the 1st back loop of Round 3 (the loop we marked with a stitch marker). CH7, SC in 3rd CH from hook, HDC in each of the 4 remaining CHS, SL ST in BLO of same ST you started in.  This is your first back petal.

    Complete “Back Petal Instructions” once in each of the next 3 STS. SK next ST. Complete “Back Petal Instructions” once in each of the next 4 STS. SK next ST.  Complete “Back Petal Instructions” once in each of the next 5 STS. 

    You should now have 13 back petals, 26 petals total.

    Leaving the long BROWN YARN tail (if you’re using it to attach your flower to your project), weave in all other ends.

    SHAPING THE PETALS

    If your petals are curling up too much, you can invert them by pinching the backside of the tips of the petals. Block flower if desired to maintain shape.

    That’s it!

    I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your project on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design!