Author: rebecca

Carlyle Cowl

Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!

I knew as soon as I made the Carlyle Slouch that it needed a matching cowl. Besides the fact that my readers are always asking for patterns in sets, which I’m trying to do more of, I just love color-blocking and was so happy with how the hat came together that a cowl seemed like a natural next step!

For this pattern, I used the same 3 neutral colors from Cascade Yarn’s Longwood line (which has soooo many color options) as I did for the slouch hat. Longwood is one of my absolute all-time favorite yarns; I used it in the Herringbone Baby Hat, Easy Herringbone Earwarmer, Super Plush Infinity Scarf, and the Yenni and South Haven Slouches (the latter two use the sport weight version of the yarn). I honestly can’t get enough of its softness, drape and amazing stitch definition!

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CARLYLE COWL

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 12″ tall x 29″ around

Hook: I (5.50mm)

Yarn: Approximately 350 yards of Cascade Longwood, a #4 medium yarn. Broken down, you will need about 120 yards of Color A, 115 yards of Color B, and 115 yards of Color C. I used colors “Oatmeal”, “Doeskin Heather” and “Walnut”, respectively.

Gauge: 7 rows of 8 HHDC = 2″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
BLO (back loop only)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round after the band. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds and do not join unless instructed to do so.

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THE PATTERN

RIBBED BAND

To begin: With COLOR A, CH9.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (8)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Rows 3-116: Repeat Row 2. (8)

Fasten off leaving a 12″ tail. Use tail to sew the last and first rows together to form a circular shape. Weave in both ends. Reattach COLOR A at the seam and continue to instructions for “Body”.

BODY

We are now working in continuous rounds. Do not join or chain unless specifically instructed.

Round 1: CH1; HHDC in each ribbing row around. (116)

Rounds 2-7: HHDC in each ST around. (116)

Attach COLOR B; fasten off COLOR A.

Rounds 8-20: HHDC in each ST around. (116)

Attach COLOR C; fasten off COLOR B.

Rounds 21-32: HHDC in each ST around. (116)

Round 33: HHDC in each of the first 112 STS; 4 STS remain. SC in each of the next 2 STS. SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

September 9, 2016
Riverbed Slouch Hat
If you’ve been around my blog for a while (or if you take one look at my patterns page), you’ve probably noticed that I am drawn to single-color, neutral yarns. This is totally a preference thing, and I have nothing against those of you who like variegated yarn… it’s just not what I normally reach for.

But this season, I gave myself a challenge. My challenge was to find ways to use multi-colored (a.k.a. self-striping) yarns in some of my designs, while still keeping them modern-looking. So I went to one of my yarn stores and wandered the aisles until I found my first target: Lion Brand’s Tweed Stripes in “Caramel”. Of course I was drawn to the neutral hues, so I thought that might be a good compromise for me to begin with!

I wanted to keep the pattern really simple, because in my opinion, the busier the yarn, the simpler the stitches should be. Intricate stitches tend to get lost more easily in multi-colored yarns, and even more so in tweeds. Sometimes, less really is more. So, the body of this hat is just comprised of alternating SC and HDC rounds.

I also really wanted to balance out the busyness of all of the colors, so I chose a yarn from the Vanna’s Choice line, also by Lion Brand (color: “linen”) that matched the lightest color in the tweed yarn, and used that to make the band and the pom pom. Honestly, I would not have liked my result nearly as much if I’d done the entire thing in the tweed, but I think the linen color at the top and bottom of the hat really brings it all together and makes it work.

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RIVERBED SLOUCH HAT

Level: Easyish

Size:
One Size Fits Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 9.5” across at band, and is 10” tall.

Materials:
- K hook (6.50mm) and H hook (5.0mm)
- Yarn needle
- 120 yards of Yarn A: Lion Brand Tweed Stripes (sample shown in Caramel) and about 60 yards of Yarn B: Vanna’s Choice in a coordinating color (sample shown in Linen). Tweed Stripes is a Bulky #5 yarn, and Vanna’s Choice is a Worsted/Aran #4 yarn.
- Stitch marker (a bobby pin works great)
Gauge:
With larger hook, 6 rows of 7 HDC & SC (alternate each row) = 2″ square.

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle) – view my tutorial here
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:

(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) This hat is worked in a continuous spiral until the band. Do not join, chain or turn until instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
(3) The pom pom is optional.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using K (6.50mm) hook, with Yarn A, make a magic circle.

Round 1: 10 HDC in MC (10)

Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around (20)

Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around (40)

Note: At this point, it’s going to start looking wavy. You’re doing it right! The back of the hat has a faux-cinched look to it, and this is how we achieve it. Once you get to the body of the hat, it will start to straighten itself out naturally.

Round 4: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around (60)

Round 5: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 5 STS) around (70)

Round 6: SC around (70)

Round 7: HDC around (70)

Rounds 8-21: Repeat Rounds 6-7 (70)

Round 22: SC in first 69 STS (all but the last ST), SL ST in final stitch of the round (70)

Join Yarn B. Fasten off Yarn A. Switch to H (5.0mm) hook.

Round 23: CH1; SC around. Join with a SL ST to first SC. (70)

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat with SL STS as we go. Click here to view my video tutorial for this technique.

Row 1: CH9. SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in remaining 7 CHS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (8, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat.

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (70 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to whip stitch the first and last rows together. Weave in all ends.
August 31, 2016
Easy Herringbone Earwarmer

Ready for a quick project that doesn’t use lots of yarn, is easy enough for a confident beginner, and will make a great Christmas present?

The Easy Herringbone Earwarmer is a simple fall accessory, perfect for those autumn nights when the air is getting crisp. Throw your hair up in a messy bun or wear it down; either way, the Easy Herringbone Earwarmer will be a perfect addition. (And it goes great with my last pattern release, the Herringbone Buttoned Cowl!)

The Yarn

For this pattern, I used Longwood Sport from Cascade Yarns. Longwood Sport is a #3 light, 100% super wash extra fine merino wool. It is unbelievably soft and has perfect stitch definition. It’s my favorite yarn of anything I’ve ever tried; a little pricier than what you find in the big stores, but soooo worth it, especially for special projects!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

HERRINGBONE EARWARMER

Difficulty: Easy/Beginner

Finished Size: 19.5″ around (when buttoned) x 3.25″ wide

Hook: H (5.00mm)

Yarn: About 80 yards of Longwood Sport from Cascade Yarns. (Longwood Sport is a #3 light yarn.)

Gauge: 4 rows of 8 HHDC = 2″ (see “Special Stitch” below for explanation of HHDC)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 1″ button, sewing needle, and thread to match yarn color.

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
SC2TOG (single crochet two together)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
(3) To adjust for different sizes: All you need to do to make the headband smaller or larger is subtract from or add to your starting chain. There are 4 stitches in an inch, so if – for instance – you wanted a headband that was 17.5″ long instead of 19.5″ long, you would start with 8 fewer chains.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: CH66.

Row 1: HHDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each CH across. (65)

Rows 2-11: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (65)

We are now moving on to the first side section of the earwarmer.

Row 12: CH1, do not turn. SC in same ST, and working down the short end of the piece, SC in each row (from rows 2-11) across, for a total of 11 STS. (11)

Row 13: CH1, turn. SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 7 STS, SC2TOG. (9)

Rows 14-15: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (9)

Row 16: CH1, turn. SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 5 STS, SC2TOG. (7)

Rows 17-18: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (7)

Row 19: CH1, turn. SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 3 STS, SC2TOG. (5)

Row 20: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (5)

Fasten off yarn and weave in ends. Next, we’re going to add the other side section. Reattach yarn on opposite end of the piece, starting at the right side.

Row 21: CH1, SC in same ST. Working down the short end of the piece, SC in each row (from rows 2-11) across, for a total of 11 STS. (11)

Row 22: CH1, turn. SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 7 STS, SC2TOG. (9)

Rows 23-24: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (9)

Row 25: CH1, turn. SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 5 STS, SC2TOG. (7)

Row 26: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (7)

Row 27: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 2 STS. CH3, SK 3 STS. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. (4, + CH3)

Row 28: CH1, turn. SC2TOG. 3SC in the CH3 space from previous row. SC2TOG. (5)

Row 29: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (5)

Edging: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly around the entire piece, putting 3SC in each end corner, and 2SC in each slight corner where the HHDC rows meet the SC rows. (Use the diagram below for help with corners.) Join with a SL ST to the first SC.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Button: Sew your button to the end with no buttonhole.

August 26, 2016
Herringbone Buttoned Cowl

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!

It’s coming near to the end of August, which means we’ll soon enter into the month that brings my favorite season of all — Autumn! That means it’s time for cowls, scarves, hats, boot cuffs… do you know how happy this makes me? As much as I’ve had fun coming up with home decor patterns for the last few months, fall/winter accessories are my happy place.

To kick off the season of apple crisp and hayrides, I’ve designed the first accessory in the Little Monkeys Crochet Fall ’16 lineup, the Herringbone Buttoned Cowl. This is a snug little piece of neckwear that is perfect for layering. On a cool day, it looks great worn with a shirt and jeans. On a colder evening, tuck it under your winterwear and let the ribbed collar peek out – the bottom of the cowl is nice and flat, so it won’t add bulk under your coat!

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The Yarn

For this pattern, I used the gorgeous, relatively-new Vanna’s Style (from Lion Brand), which is a DK (that’s a #3 weight) yarn. (Don’t confuse this with Vanna’s Choice, which is a #4 worsted yarn!) This yarn is stunning. It has the most beautiful stitch definition, which shows off the rows of the Herringbone stitch really nicely. It isn’t too shiny, but has just enough sheen to give it an elegant look. I haven’t found Vanna’s Style in any of my local stores yet, but you can always purchase it direct from Lion Brand.

And if you love matching sets, check out the Herringbone Slouch:

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

HERRINGBONE BUTTONED COWL

Difficulty: Easyish

Finished Size: 29″ wide x 12″ tall (when laid flat)

Hook: G (4.25mm)

Yarn: About 390-400 yards of Vanna’s Style DK Yarn by Lion Brand (that’s less than 2 skeins). The sample is shown in “Silver”.

Gauge: 16 rows of 17 HHDC = 4″ (see “Special Stitch” below for explanation of HHDC)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 2 buttons (3/4″ or 1″), sewing needle, and thread to match yarn color.

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
BLO (back loops only)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH2 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
(3) The pattern is divided into 3 parts: the Top Band, the Body, and the Side Band. The pattern as a whole is worked in one piece (there is no sewing at the end).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

Part 1: Top Band

To begin: CH9.

Top Band, Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (8)

Rows 2-120: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Row 121 (buttonhole): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (6 + CH2)

Row 122: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. 2SC in CH2 space. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Rows 123-124: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Part 2: Body

(Note that for ease of row counting, we are referring to the next row as “Row 1” instead of “Row 125”.)

Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly down the long edge of the piece, putting 1SC in each row. (124)

Row 2: CH1, turn. HHDC in each of the first 115 STS. 9 STS remain unworked (and will remain so for the remainder of Part 2). (115)

Rows 3-42: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (115)

Note: At this point, you should be on the same side of the cowl as the buttonhole we made back in Row 121 of the Top Band. If you’re on the opposite side you probably miscounted something, but it’s no big deal; just do one more row of HHDC to get yourself to where you need to be.

Row 43: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly up the side of the cowl, working toward the buttonhole, putting 1SC in each row until you reach the inner corner where the top band and the body meet. (41 SC)

Part 3: Side Band

(Remember back in Row 2 of the body, when we left 9 stitches unworked? We’re going to be working in those now.)

Side Band, Row 1 (highlighted in yellow in the photo below): SL ST to the closest unworked ST from Row 2 of the body section. CH1. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 unworked STS. SC in both loops of the final unworked ST. (8 SC)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Row 43 of the body. (8, + the 2 SL STS along Row 43)

Row 3: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

Rows 4-23: Repeat rows 2-3. (8)

Row 24 (buttonhole): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 3 STS. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Row 43 of the body. (6SC + CH2 buttonhole, + the 2 SL STS along Row 43)

Row 25: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. 2SC in CH2 space. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Rows 26-41: Repeat rows 2-3. (8)

Row 42: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in the final ST of Row 43 of the body. (8, + 1 SL ST along Row 43)

Depending on your placement of the first SCs from Row 43 of the body, your piece may look like it still needs one more row of ribbing to bring it even with the edge of the cowl. If so, go ahead and add that last row of ribbing by putting a SL ST into the CH1 space you created at the beginning of Row 43 of the body. CH1 and turn, and complete another row.

Edging: CH1, turn. SC evenly around the entire piece, putting 3SC in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the first SC.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Buttons: Lay your scarf flat, with the corner buttonhole at the top left corner. Your first button should be sewn 1 inch (both sides) from the bottom right corner; your second button should be sewn 6 inches from the right edge, 1 inch from the bottom edge (in line with the first button).

To Wear:

It can feel a bit tricky at first! Start by putting it around your neck with the buttonhole on your left, and the Top Band at the top. The button that is NOT in the corner is the button that will go through the top buttonhole. Once you’ve joined those together, you can slip the corner button through the second buttonhole, then tuck the extra fabric under the cowl. If you need a little extra help, watch this video of the Sparkly Buttoned Cowl (it’s the same style of cowl):

August 20, 2016
Herringbone Baby Hat

Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!

If you follow me on Facebook or subscribe to my e-newsletter, you probably already know my good news: we’re adding another little monkey to our family in December! Our baby boy will join us right around Christmastime, and we are beyond excited.

Believe it or not, I didn’t even know how to crochet when my other two boys (now 6 and 4) were born. Luckily, some of the wonderful women in our church made beautiful crocheted items for both of them when they were born. Now, it’s my turn!

Oh, and – side note – that’s my oldest monkey up there in the photo holding his future baby brother’s hat. How adorable is that!?

–

About the Yarn

For this hat pattern, I used Cascade Longwood, one of my all-time favorite #4 worsted weight yarns. (It also has a thinner version, Longwood Sport, which just so happens to be one of my all-time favorite #3 light yarns.) It is soooo soft, and works up soooo beautifully. I had a few balls of it from another pattern project, so I used what was left to work up baby hats in newborn – 1 year sizes. I’ve turned my business focus so much to adult patterns over the last couple of years that sitting down to make baby hats for a few days was refreshing (they work up so quick!) and Cascade Longwood makes it all that much more enjoyable.

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About the Herringbone Stitch

This pattern uses a beautiful stitch called the Herringbone Half Double Crochet. I tend to get fixated on a certain stitch each season (last year was the SC+HDC combo), and this year, you’ll be seeing the Herringbone in a lot of my pattern releases. There are so many variations of this stitch that change its look drastically. In this pattern, we’ll be using the Herringbone HDC variation in a continuous, unturned spiral, resulting in a great texture that is a welcome change from the typical HDC hat.

–

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

HERRINGBONE BABY HAT

Difficulty: Easy

Hook: I (5.50mm)

Yarn: Cascade Longwood (a #4 medium yarn). Yardage will be listed under individual pattern sizes.

Gauge: Upon completion of Round 5 (in all sizes), your flat circle should measure 3.75″ across. For best results, adjust your hook size to match this gauge.

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
SC2TOG (single crochet two together)
BLO (back loop only)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round until the band. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds and do not join unless instructed to do so.
(3) Measurements and yarn totals are included on individual sizes and do not include the optional pom pom.
(4) Several people have noted that the pattern comes out too large; however, I stand by it. PLEASE CHECK YOUR GAUGE.

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NEWBORN

Measurements: 5″ tall x 6″ wide (when laid flat)
Yards of yarn used: 55

To begin: With I hook, make a magic circle; CH1.

Round 1: 9 HHDC in MC. (9)

Round 2: 2 HHDC in each ST around. (18)

Round 3: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in next ST) around. (27)

Round 4: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)

Round 5: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (45)

Round 6: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 8 STS) around. (50)

Rounds 7-11: HHDC in each ST around. (50)

Round 12: HHDC in each of the first 48 STS. SC in next ST. SL ST in final ST. (50)

If you are using a different color for the band of the hat, change colors now.

Round 13: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (50)

Switch to H hook.

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Row 1: CH5. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (4, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 4 STS. (4)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each of the next 4 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (4, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (50 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to whip stitch the first and last rows together. Weave in all ends.

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0-3 MONTHS

Measurements: 5.5″ tall x 6.5″ wide (when laid flat)
Yards of yarn used: 65

To begin: With I hook, make a magic circle; CH1.

Round 1: 9 HHDC in MC. (9)

Round 2: 2 HHDC in each ST around. (18)

Round 3: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in next ST) around. (27)

Round 4: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)

Round 5: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (45)

Round 6: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 4 STS) 8 times; 5 STS remain unworked. HHDC in each of the remaining STS. (53)

Rounds 7-14: HHDC in each ST around. (53)

Round 15: HHDC in each of the first 51 STS. SC in next ST. SL ST in final ST. (53)

If you are using a different color for the band of the hat, change colors now.

Round 16: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (53)

Switch to H hook.

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Row 1: CH5. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (4, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 4 STS. (4)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each of the next 4 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (4, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (53 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to whip stitch the first and last rows together. Weave in all ends.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

3-6 MONTHS

Measurements: 6.25″ tall x 7″ wide (when laid flat)
Yards of yarn used: 90

To begin: With I hook, make a magic circle; CH1.

Round 1: 9 HHDC in MC. (9)

Round 2: 2 HHDC in each ST around. (18)

Round 3: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in next ST) around. (27)

Round 4: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)

Round 5: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (45)

Round 6: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (54)

Round 7: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 26 STS) around. (56)

Rounds 8-16: HHDC in each ST around. (56)

Round 17: HHDC in each of the first 54 STS. SC in next ST. SL ST in final ST. (56)

If you are using a different color for the band of the hat, change colors now.

Round 18: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (56)

Switch to H hook.

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Row 1: CH6. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (5, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (5)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (5, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (56 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to whip stitch the first and last rows together. Weave in all ends.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

6-9 MONTHS

Measurements: 6.5″ tall x 7.5″ wide (when laid flat)
Yards of yarn used: 105

To begin: With I hook, make a magic circle; CH1.

Round 1: 9 HHDC in MC. (9)

Round 2: 2 HHDC in each ST around. (18)

Round 3: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in next ST) around. (27)

Round 4: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)

Round 5: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (45)

Round 6: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (54)

Round 7: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 8 STS) around. (60)

Rounds 8-17: HHDC in each ST around. (60)

Round 18: HHDC in each of the first 58 STS. SC in next ST. SL ST in final ST. (60)

If you are using a different color for the band of the hat, change colors now.

Round 19: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (60)

Switch to H hook.

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Row 1: CH6. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (5, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (5)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (5, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (60 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to whip stitch the first and last rows together. Weave in all ends.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

9-12 MONTHS

Measurements: 6.5″ tall x 7.75″ wide (when laid flat)
Yards of yarn used: 110

To begin: With I hook, make a magic circle; CH1.

Round 1: 9 HHDC in MC. (9)

Round 2: 2 HHDC in each ST around. (18)

Round 3: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in next ST) around. (27)

Round 4: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)

Round 5: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (45)

Round 6: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (54)

Round 7: (2 HHDC in next ST, HHDC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (63)

Round 8: 2 HHDC in next ST. HHDC in next 62 STS. (64)

Rounds 9-17: HHDC in each ST around. (64)

Round 18: HHDC in each of the first 62 STS. SC in next ST. SL ST in final ST. (64)

If you are using a different color for the band of the hat, change colors now.

Round 19: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (64)

Switch to H hook.

Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat with SL STS as we go.

Row 1: CH6. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (5, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (5)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SL ST in next 2 STS of the hat. (5, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (64 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to whip stitch the first and last rows together. Weave in all ends.

August 5, 2016
Americana Pillow (12″)

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!

Happy Independence Day Weekend to all my American friends! Between the fireworks and campfires, beach trips and barbecues, we definitely know how to celebrate freedom in style.

In honor of this special holiday, I’ve created this fun American flag throw pillow pattern. The front is a combination of 4 smaller squares sewn into the design of an American Flag, with assorted buttons in place of the stars. The back side has its own design:

Don’t worry if you don’t have time to get yours done for the 4th; Americana is in style all year round!

The Yarn

Before we get into the pattern, though, let me talk about this yarn. I used the brand new Vanna’s Style (from Lion Brand), which is a DK (that’s a #3 weight) yarn. When I first heard that Lion Brand was debuting a DK version of Vanna’s Choice, I couldn’t contain my excitement. And when my first skeins came in the mail, I was completely blown away. Seriously, guys — I have never, ever been this excited about a new yarn. It is so soft! And you get 254 yards in a skein, which for a DK weight especially is a great amount. The stitch definition is gorgeous and crocheting with it is easy peasy. All I can say is, get ready for fall and winter, because you’ll definitely be seeing lots of new Little Monkeys patterns with my new favorite yarn.

I haven’t found Vanna’s Style in any of my local stores yet (it really is brand new), but you can always purchase it direct from Lion Brand!

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AMERICANA PILLOW

Level: Easy but involved

Size: Fits a standard 12″ square pillow insert

Hook: E (3.50mm); use whatever hook you need to match gauge.

Gauge: 6 rows of 8 HRDC = 2″ square

Yarn: About 600 yards of Vanna’s Style yarn from Lion Brand. (Vanna’s Style is a #3 DK weight yarn.) I used Red, Ecru, and Navy (less than 1 skein of each).

You’ll also need: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, assorted small buttons in shades of cream/ivory, needle and thread for sewing on buttons, 12″ square throw pillow insert

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HbDC (herringbone double crochet; see “Special Stitch” below)

Special Stitch:
HbDC – Herringbone Double Crochet. (If the instructions below are unclear, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here.)

HbDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through first loop on hook. Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over again and pull the loop through both loops on the hook.

Additional Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1/CH2 at the beginning of rows do not count as stitches.
(3) Gauge is important in this pattern. It is not important to use the same hook size as I did; it is very important to choose a hook that allows you to match the gauge listed.
(4) Regarding the front side of the pillow, the red and white striped squares: instead of edging them in all red or all ecru (ivory), I chose to edge mine in both colors, alternating my yarn all the way around the square according to what color stripe I was edging. This may seem like overkill, but the difference in the finished look of the pillow was striking. When I first edged them in the ivory color all the way around, it looked significantly more sloppy. I highly recommend you alternate the colors, as I think you’ll be happier with the professionalism of the finished product.

PATTERN

FRONT SIDE, RED AND WHITE STRIPED SQUARES (MAKE 3)

Finished squares should measure 5.75″ across including edging.

To begin:
With RED, CH24.

Row 1: HbDC in 3rd CH from hook and in each CH across. (22)
Row 2: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (22)
Row 3: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (22)
Row 4: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (22)

Switch to ECRU.

Row 5-8: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (22)

Switch to RED.

Rows 9-12: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (22)

Switch to ECRU.

Rows 13-16: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (22)

Fasten off. To weave in ends, let’s determine which side of the square will be the front. If you look at both sides of a square, you’ll notice they are slightly different at their color changes; one side will have a nice definitive color change (albeit slightly jagged), and the other side will show slight overlap at the color changes, where the Ecru may show through the Red stitches a bit or vice versa. Use the side with the nice clear color change as the front of your square, and weave your ends into the backside.

Edging

There are 2 important things to understand about edging these squares. This may sound a little confusing, but hang with me here and use the photo below to clarify what I’m saying. (1) We need to edge these squares nice and evenly, with 22SC around each side of the square. This is easy to do with the top and bottom of the square, but takes a little planning with the left and right edges since there are no evenly-placed stitches to work into. To get 22SC along those left and right edges, we’re going to put 6SC in each Red section, and 5SC in each Ecru section (6+5+6+5=22). (2) As mentioned in the Notes section above, we are edging these squares with alternating Red and Ecru, because the finished look will be much nicer. Yes, it means a few more ends to weave in, but trust me; it will look better. If you need help with switching colors in the middle of a row, Moogly has a great video tutorial here.

So, keeping in mind the explanations above, we’re going to put a nice edging on these squares. We’ve already determined which side of the squares will be the front, so lay a square in front of you with the front side facing you. Attach RED to the rightmost corner of the top Red stripe; CH1. Put 6SC along the short side of that stripe. CH2 (to turn the corner), and SC in each ST along the long side of the Red stripe (22SC). CH2 again, and put 6SC evenly along the remaining edge of that stripe. Switch to ECRU and put 5SC along the short edge of that stripe. Switch back to RED and put 6SC along the short edge of the next red stripe. Continue around the square, then join to the first SC with a SL ST.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

FRONT SIDE, BLUE SQUARE (MAKE 1)

Finished square should measure 5.75″ across including edging.

To begin:
With NAVY, CH24.

Row 1: HbDC in 3rd CH from hook and in each CH across. (22)
Rows 2-16: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (22)

Edging:
CH1, turn.

1st side: SC evenly along the first edge (22SC); CH2 to round the corner.
2nd side: Notice the horizontal “lines” that were created naturally by the stitch we used; these lines divide the square up into 9 “strips”. To evenly crochet 22SC down this side of the square, place 2SC in the first strip, 3SC in the next, 2 in the next, 3 in the next, alternating all the way down the side for a total of 22SC (2+3+2+3+2+3+2+3+2=22). Use the photo below to guide you. CH2 to round the next corner.

3rd side: SC evenly along the first edge (22SC); CH2 to round the corner.
4th side: Follow instructions for 2nd side (22SC), and CH2 to round the final corner. Join with a SL ST to the first SC.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Buttons

Arrange your buttons on the front side of the blue square and sew them on with yarn and thread. I used a tiny dab of hot glue to affix each one to the square before I sewed any of them, so that they would stay in place during the sewing process. If you don’t have a glue gun handy, you could also snap a photo of the buttons in the layout you want so that you can refer to it as you sew.

BACK SIDE (MAKE 1)

Finished square should measure 11.75″ across including edging.

To begin:
With RED, CH48.

Row 1: HbDC in 3rd CH from hook and in each CH across. (46)
Row 2: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (46)

Switch to ECRU.

Rows 3-4: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (46)

Switch to NAVY.

Rows 5-6: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (46)

Switch to RED.

Rows 7-32: Continue this pattern, switching colors every 2 rows in a RED, ECRU, and NAVY repetition. (You will end on RED.)

Switch to ECRU.

Row 33: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. Note that this is only a single row of HbDC. (46)

Fasten off RED and NAVY. Leaving ECRU attached, weave all loose ends into the backside of the square, then continue on to Edging (next).

Edging:
CH1, do not turn.

1st side: This pillow is divided into 17 stripes or color blocks (yes, we’re including that last row of HbDC in that final count, even though it’s smaller than the rest). We need to crochet 46SC evenly down this side, and we’ll do so by following a pattern of 2-3-3-3 (meaning 2SC in the first stripe, 3SC in the next, 3SC in the next, 3SC in the next, then repeat, all the way down the side). After repeating this sequence a total of 4 times, there will be 1 stripe remaining; we’ll put 2SC in that one. Use the photo below as a visual.

CH2 to round the corner.

2nd side: SC in each ST across (46). CH2 to round the corner.
3rd side: Follow the instructions for the 1st side (46). CH2 to round the corner.
4th side: SC in each ST across (46). CH2 to round the corner. Join to the first SC of Side 1 with a SL ST. Fasten off and weave in.

ASSEMBLING THE FRONT OF THE PILLOW

You should now have 5 squares:

It’s time to make them into a pillow cover!

We’ll start by assembling the front side of the pillow. Lay your squares out in front of you in the layout in which they’ll be sewn together:

We’ll begin with the top two squares. Line up the right edge of the blue square with the left edge of the striped square, and put the squares together, wrong sides touching, right sides facing outward. Attach Ecru in the top corner CH2 spaces (going through both squares) and CH1. SC in same space. SC in only the two inner loops (the ones that are touching each other) of the next ST, leaving the outer loop of each square unworked (see photo below). SC in only the two inner loops of each ST all the way across the edge of the squares. SC in last CH2 space. Do not remove your hook.

We’re going to muster up a little extra hand coordination now in order to attach the bottom two squares. Take the bottom two squares and line them up with each other in the same way you did for the top two squares. Holding the top two squares in your right hand and the bottom two in your left, SC in the top CH2 spaces of both bottom squares, essentially attaching the top two with the bottom two (see photo below).

Continue to SC in only the two inner loops along the edge of the bottom two squares. SC in last CH2 space. All four of your squares should be attached now by a vertical seam, and they should look a little like a butterfly when laid out flat:

CH1, turn. Going back over the seam you just created, SC in the samestitches you did before. Note that you are not adding a new row; you are thickening the row you already did by going over it with a 2nd layer (see photo below).

Fasten off your yarn and weave in the ends.

Next, fold the piece in half at the unseamed center, wrong sides touching, right sides facing out. Reattach Ecru in the CH2 spaces on the right edge, and follow the same instructions to seam the edges together (making sure to SC in each CH2 space, and also to SC in only the two inner loops of the rest of the stitches). Don’t forget to CH1, turn, and SC in the same stitches you did before to give the seam a 2nd layer.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Final Assembly

Hold the front and back sides of the pillow cover together, wrong sides facing each other, right sides facing outward. Attach Ecru in the CH2 space of one of the corners, CH1, and SC in same space. SC around 3 sides of the squares, putting (SC, CH1, SC) in each CH2 corner space. Place pillow insert inside cover and continue to SC along the 4th side, closing the pillow inside. When you get to the corner in which you started, SC and CH1, then SL ST to the very first SC you completed. Fasten off and weave in ends.

PATTERN FAQS

I am already anticipating some of the questions I’ll get about this pattern, so I’m going to answer them here. I’ll add other questions and answers as they come.

Q. Did you carry your yarn on the striped sections, or fasten off and reattach each time?
A. I started out fastening off, but did switch to carrying. It really depends on what you’re most comfortable with. As long as you’re careful to not let the carried yarn pull on the edges, and you know how to hide it when you edge your squares and keep it concealed with you sew the pillow together, you’ll be fine if you carry it.

Q. Do I have to edge the red & white striped squares in both colors, or can I just edge them all in ecru (ivory)?
A. You don’t have to do what I did; I just highly recommend it for a nicer finished look. If it’s too overwhelming for you, then yes, feel free to just do a simple ivory edging.

Q. How can I make this for a larger pillow?
A. Unfortunately, due to the involved nature of the pattern, it’s quite a bit more complicated than simply starting with a longer chain. If you want to make the pattern for a larger pillow insert, you’ll need to figure out the changes on your own.

Q. Is there a video tutorial for this pattern?
A. No, sorry! 🙂

July 3, 2016
Bubble Gum Accent Rug

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!

I have a fun new home decor pattern for you today! I experimented with Lion Brand’s cheerfully-colored Kitchen Cotton line to come up with this bright accent rug. I’m a big fan of color-blocking (colors striped in big chunks at a time), so I used that method when choosing this project’s color scheme. Smaller stripes of an off-white separate each of the color blocks to really make them pop. This accent rug would be perfect in a bathroom or a nursery.

I double-stranded (held two strands together) my yarn for this pattern in order to get a nice sturdy rug. If you’re newer to crochet, this might sound intimidating, but you’ll get the hang of it quick! You may also find that it’s a little harder on your hands, because the hook has to work a little harder, but you can always set it aside for a day and come back to it with fresh fingers.

You can find this fun, sturdy yarn at lionbrand.com, or on Craftsy. At the time this blog post was published, Kitchen Cotton was on sale on Craftsy.com for just $2.03 a skein (regular $3.69). That’s a steal!

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BUBBLE GUM ACCENT RUG

Level: Easy

Size: 20″ (height) x 30″ (width)

Hook: H (5.00mm)

Yarn: About 1,100 yards of Kitchen Cotton yarn from Lion Brand. (Kitchen Cotton is a #4 medium weight yarn.) I used the following colors and amounts:

Grape (about 280 yards, or less than 3 skeins)
Bubblegum (about 280 yards, or less than 3 skeins)
Tropic Breeze (about 280 yards, or less than 3 skeins)
Vanilla (about 260 yards, or less than 3 skeins)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Gauge: 6 rows of 10 SC = 3″ square (getting this exact is not super important unless you’re wanting your rug to turn out the exact same size as mine)

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
(3) You will be double-stranding the entire pattern. (That means holding two strands of yarn together. This will give the rug stiffness.)
(4) You can easily change the size of this rug; just make sure to begin with any odd number of chains (to make it taller or shorter), and add or subtract rows as needed for a different width.
(5) The pattern below is written out according to my color changes, but the stitch pattern is actually just Rows 1-8, with a continuous repeat of Rows 5-8. This is good information to have if you want to make a solid-colored rug, or if you want your color changes to be different than mine.

Here are the colors I used, and how they’ll be referenced in the pattern:
COLOR A: Grape (purple)
COLOR B: Vanilla (ivory)
COLOR C: Bubblegum (pink)
COLOR D: Tropic Breeze (aqua)

PATTERN

Remember, you’re holding two strands together throughout!

To begin: With COLOR A, CH 61.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each CH across. (60)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (60)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (60)
Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)
Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)
Row 6: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (60)
Row 7: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (60)
Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)
Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)
Row 10: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (60)
Row 11: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (60)
Row 12: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)

Change to COLOR B.

Row 13: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)
Row 14: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (60)
Row 15: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (60)
Row 16: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)

Change to COLOR C.

Row 17: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)
Rows 18-28: Repeat Rows 2-12. (60)

Change to COLOR B.

Rows 29-32: Repeat Rows 13-16. (60)

Change to COLOR D.

Row 33: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)
Rows 34-44: Repeat Rows 2-12. (60)

Change to COLOR B.

Rows 45-48: Repeat Rows 13-16. (60)

Change to COLOR A.

Row 49: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)
Rows 50-60: Repeat Rows 2-12. (60)

Change to COLOR B.

Rows 61-64: Repeat Rows 13-16. (60)

Change to COLOR C.

Row 65: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)
Rows 66-76: Repeat Rows 2-12. (60)

Change to COLOR B.

Rows 77-80: Repeat Rows 13-16. (60)

Change to COLOR D.

Row 81: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)
Rows 82-92: Repeat Rows 2-12. (60)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

June 28, 2016
Barb’s Chemo Cap
A couple of weeks ago, a very dear friend asked me to make her a pink chemo cap to replace the one she’d worn out. I was honored, of course, and went right to Hobby Lobby to grab a couple skeins of my favorite wearable cotton yarn, I Love This Cotton. I used the pattern for the Olivia Preemie Hat as a design base for this adult-sized beanie, and added a 5 Petal Tropical Flower as a finishing touch.

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BARB’S CHEMO CAP CROCHET PATTERN

Level: Easy

Size:
One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 10” across the bottom of the band, and is 7.5” tall.

Materials:
- H hook (5.005mm)
- Yarn needle
- 140 yards of Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton (shown in “Pink” with a contrasting round in “White”)
- Stitch marker (a bobby pin works great)
Gauge:
Your first 3 rounds should measure 3.5″ across.

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle) – view my tutorial here
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
DC (double crochet)
SC+DC (single crochet and double crochet in same ST)

Notes:

(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) This hat is worked in a continuous spiral until the very end. Do not join, chain or turn until instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
(3) The information above is only for the hat. The pattern for the flower can be found here. For the flower, I used the same brand of yarn and a G hook.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Make a magic circle, CH1.

Round 1: 12 DC in MC (12)

Round 2: 2 DC in each ST around (24)

Round 3: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around (36)

Round 4: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 STS) around (48)

Rounds 5: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 3 STS) around (60)

Round 6: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 4 STS) around (72)

Rounds 7-19: SC+DC in first ST, SK next ST. (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around. (72)

Round 20: SC+DC in first ST, SK next ST. (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around until only 2 STS remain. SC in next ST, SL ST in next (last) ST. (72)

Round 21: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join to the first SC with a SL ST. (72)

Change to contrasting color if desired.

Round 22: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join to the first SC with a SL ST. (72)

Fasten off and weave in all ends. Add an optional flower for a little more fun! Click here to see the pattern I used.
June 12, 2016
Huntley Gift Bag Crochet Pattern

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for supplying the yarn for this sample!

It’s not lost on me that this probably seems a little late in the game to be releasing a Teacher Thank-You Gift idea, considering it seems most of the country has already been on summer break for a couple of weeks. But here in Michigan, we have this silly little state law that prohibits public schools from starting before Labor Day; and with a late start date comes a late end date. (I don’t mind it, really… it’s especially nice when all the Ohio kids go back to school in August and we Michiganders get all the rides at Cedar Point to ourselves. But I digress.)

So, since I’m a procrastinator, I’m just now figuring out what to give my son’s awesome Readiness Kindergarten teacher. Luckily for you, this pattern could be used for a number of things (and I’m hoping that Mrs. Huntley will find other uses for it as well)!

For Mrs. Huntley, I stuffed it with glue sticks and glue bottles (which were a constant need in the classroom throughout the year), and I also plan to add some candy and a small gift card for coffee. Hopefully she’ll love it… we sure love her!

About the Yarn

24/7 Cotton is a #4 medium weight yarn, although I’d definitely put it on the lighter side of the #4 family. It’s 100% mercerized cotton, which means it’s been treated with a process that brings out its brightness and sheen and helps it withstand multiple washings without losing that sheen. It comes in 186-yard skeins in a range of 24 gorgeous colors, from striking brights to natural-looking neutrals. It produces a stiffish (that’s probably not a real word) fabric, has a great balance of sheen and stitch definition, and doesn’t split at all during use. I’ve been seriously impressed with Lion Brand’s recently released yarns, and 24/7 Cotton is really no exception.

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HUNTLEY GIFT BAG

Level: Easy

Size: 9″ long x 3″ wide x 6″ tall

Hook: H (5.00mm)

Yarn: About 295 yards total of a #4 medium weight 100% mercerized cotton yarn. I used 24/7 Cotton (by Lion Brand) in color blocks of Lilac, Café Au Lait, and Ecru. You will be holding two strands together, so you can either buy two skeins of each color (if you’re using my color changes), or you can buy 1 skein of each and roll half of each skein into its own center-pull ball.

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Gauge: 12 rows of 10SC = 3″ square

Abbreviations Used:
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(3) You are holding two strands together throughout the pattern.
(4) Made at the correct gauge, this bag is stiff enough to stand on its own, but still has quite a bit of give. For a stiffer bag, use a smaller hook size or consider triple-stranding your yarn.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
With first color double-stranded, CH 26.

Round 1: 3SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in each of the next 23 CHs. 3SC in last CH, working around the tail to the other side. SC in each of the next 23 CHs. Join with a SL ST to 1st SC. (52)

Round 2: CH1 (does not count as a stitch, here or throughout). 2SC in same ST, 2SC in each of the next 2 STS. SC in each of the next 23 STS. 2SC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 23 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st SC. (58)

Round 3: CH1. 2SC in same ST. SC in next ST. (2SC in next, SC in next) two times. SC in each of the next 23 STS. (2SC in next, SC in next) three times. SC in each of the next 23 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st SC. (64)

Round 4: CH1. SC in each of first 2 STS. 2 SC in next ST. (SC in each of next 2 STS, 2SC in next) two times. SC in each of the next 23 STS. (SC in each of next 2 STS, 2SC in next) three times. SC in each of the next 23 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st SC. (70)

Round 5: CH1. SC+HDC in same ST, SK next ST. (SC+HDC in next ST, SK next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. (70)

Rounds 6-13: CH1, turn. SC+HDC in same ST, SK next ST. (SC+HDC in next ST, SK next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. (70)

Note: You should be back on the right side of your work at this point. If you find that you are on the wrong side, it’s not a big deal, you probably just miscounted a row, but you’ll need to turn on the next round to get yourself back to the right side.

Change colors if desired.

Rounds 14-20: CH1. SC in first ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. (70)

Change colors if desired.

Rounds 21-23: CH1. SC in first ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. (70)

Round 24: CH1. SC in first ST and in next 19 STS. CH14. SK 11 STS. SC in next 24 STS. CH14. SK 11 STS. SC in next 4 STS. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. (48 SC + two CH14s)

Visual of Round 24, creating the bag handles with the CH14:

Round 25: CH1. SC in first ST and in each ST around, putting 1SC in each CH from the two CH14s of the previous round. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. (76)

Rounds 26-27: CH1. SC in first ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. (76)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

June 8, 2016
Zinnia 12″ Square
(Pour la traduction française, cliquez ici. Traduit par Véronique Malanda Mavouala de Chez Horaive.)

After a lot of back-and-forth between the seasons here in Michigan, I think (I said think) it’s safe to say that Spring has officially sprung. So I’m excited to reveal this year’s contribution to the Moogly 2016 Afghan CAL: the Zinnia 12″ Crochet Square!

If you followed along with the CAL last year, you might think this square looks very familiar. And you’re right! I took my inspiration from my 2015 submission, the Neverending Wildflower 12″ Square.

This flower is built similarly, but has a significant difference: instead of petals that increase in width, as in last year’s square, this one has petals that stay the same size and only increase in quantity, resulting in a mass of tiny petals — much like a Zinnia flower. It’s a great match to the 2015 square, and the two together might make a stunning blanket of their own!

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This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

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ZINNIA 12″ SQUARE

(Pour la traduction française, cliquez ici.)

Difficulty: Easyish
Final Size: 12″x12″
Hook: I (5.50mm)
Yarn: Vanna’s Choice, or your favorite #4 aran weight yarn. I used about 130 yards (total) of Vanna’s Choice, in colors Linen, Dusty Purple, Purple, and Taupe.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, small button and tools to attach it (optional)
Gauge: Circle after Round 3 should measure 3.75” in diameter.

Notes: 
- This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
- The flower, including its petals, are worked as a part of the granny square as a whole. Rounds will alternate between increase rounds and petals. Increase rounds will be called “round 1, 2, 3” etc, and petal rounds will be referred to as “1^st round of petals, 2^nd round of petals,” etc. Because each petal round shares its space with the increase round below it, they are not counted as part of the pattern’s total rounds.
- CH1 on the increase rounds does not count as a stitch.
- Be mindful that the pattern alternates in calling for FLO (Front Loops Only) and BLO (Back Loops Only).
- If doing a multi-colored flower, the best place to change colors is on the increase rounds (not the petal rounds).
PART 1: THE FLOWER

Begin with a Magic Circle; CH1.

Round 1: 12 DC in MC. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (12)

1^st Round of Petals (FLO – don’t miss this!): CH2. In same St, 2DC, CH2, SL ST. This is your first petal. (SL ST to next St. In same St, CH2, 2DC, CH2, SL ST to same St) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 2 (BLO – You’re now going to work around Round 1 again, this time working in the loop that you ignored during the first round of petals): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 1. CH1. 2DC in same ST. 2 DC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (24)

2^nd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 3 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 2. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in next ST. (2DC in next ST, DC in next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (36)

3^rd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (18 petals)

Round 4 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 3. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (48)

4^th Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. To complete flower, SL ST to 1^st BLO of Round 4. (24 petals)

PART 2: THE SQUARE

Round 5 (BLO): CH2 (does not count as a stitch, here and throughout the rest of the pattern). In same ST, 2DC, CH2, 2DC. DC in next. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. DC in next ST. (In next ST, 2DC, CH2, 2DC. DC in next. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. DC in next ST) 3 times. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 15.)

Round 6: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 19.)

Round 7: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 23.)

Round 8: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 27.)

Round 9: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 31.)

Round 10: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 35.)

Round 11: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 39.)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.
May 12, 2016