Author: rebecca

  • (NEDERLANDSE TAAL) Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL – Part 1 of 3

    Let op, werd deze inleiding vertaald met Google Translate. Ik heb mezelf niet spreken Nederlands, dus als je merkt dat je verloren binnen het patroon, dan kunt u lid worden van de Facebook-groep. Er zijn veel Nederlandse sprekers bereid om te helpen! Houd er ook rekening mee, commentaren zijn uitgeschakeld voor deze blog post (omdat ik niet in staat zou zijn om ze toch te begrijpen!). Als u patroon hulp nodig hebt, gelieve te posten in de Facebook-groep. 🙂

    Veel dank aan Linda Brocks, Nathalie Vanovermeire en Petra Wortel voor al hun harde werk vertaling van de Nederlandse versie!

    – – – – – – – – –

    Welkom bij deel 1 van de Wildflower schoudertas CAL! Ik heb gewerkt aan dit voor een tijdje en ik ben echt gepompt om eindelijk te beginnen. In de komende 3 weken, gaan we het maken van een prachtige gehaakte tas samen. Als dit de eerste keer dat je hebt gehoord van de CAL, moet u controleren of dit bericht, dat al uw benodigde materialen bevat. Zelfs als je een beetje laat aan de partij, kunt u nog meedoen!

    En, vergeet niet toetreden tot de Wildflower schoudertas CAL Facebook Group om je voortgang te delen, krijg tips van anderen, en misschien een vraag beantwoorden of twee jezelf. We zitten in hetzelfde schuitje, en dat is wat maakt het leuk!

    Het schema voor de CAL is als volgt:

    25 juni: Begin hier! Intro Post en Materials List
    2 juli: Part 1, Flower Squares (dit bericht)
    9 juli: Part 2, Body van de Zak
    16 juli: Part 3, Base, versieringen en Strap

    Elk patroon post zal duidelijke instructies, behulpzaam foto’s en een goede tutorial video. Wanneer je klaar bent met elke week de opdracht, ga dan naar de Facebook-groep om uw vooruitgang te delen. En vergeet niet om zelf in te voeren in de giveaway, beneden het patroon. Er zullen nieuwe kansen om items per week toe te voegen, dus let op!

    Dus pak je gekozen haak en garen, en laten we aan de slag! (Scroll naar beneden voor het patroon en zelfstudie video!)

    TUTORIAL VIDEO

    Visual leerling? Hier is een handige video. Ik eigenlijk maken het hele plein op de camera, want ik weet dat dit zal de eerste keer dat velen van jullie een vierkant motief eerder hebben gedaan. Als je alleen gaat om de video te gebruiken als referentie, hier is een handige verdeling:

    0:39 Round 1
    3:48 1st Round of Petals
    7:46 Round 2
    10:28 2nd Round of Petals
    13:03 Rounds 3-7

    Video niet opdagen? Probeer de pagina te vernieuwen, en als dat niet werkt, klik hier.

    Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL  |  Free Crochet Purse Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    WILDFLOWER SHOULDER BAG DEEL 1: WILDFLOWER DE VIERKANTE MOTIEVEN.

    Belangrijke tips voor je begint:
    (1) Je hebt 6 van deze vierkantjes nodig.
    (2) De losse waarmee je begint TELLEN NIET mee ALS STEKEN(stokjes en/of vaste).
    (3) Let op ! In de instructies tref je de omschrijving alleen in voorste lus (VL) of alleen in achterste lus (AL) haken. Dit is belangrijk precies zo te doen als omschreven, anders raak je in de problemen bij de opbouw van de bloem.
    (4) Je haakwerk wordt nergens gedraaid. Dus gewoon recht zo die gaat rond blijven gaan.

    Begin:
    Maak een magische cirkel en haak 2 losse.

    Toer 1: Haak 12 stokjes in de magische cirkel. Sluit met een halve vaste (HV) het eerste stokje. (12 stokjes)(de eerste losse tellen niet mee weet je nog?)

    Toer 2 de eerste rij bloemblaadjes (VL): 2 l. In dezelfde lus, 2 st, 2l, 1hv. Dit is je eerste blaadje. *hv naar volgende (VL) voorste lus. In dezelfde lus, 2l, 2st, 2l, 1hv herhaal vanaf * na het laatste blaadje sluit je met een hv in de eerste VL (de basis van het eerste blaadje). (12 blaadjes)

    Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL  |  Free Crochet Purse Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Toer 3 (AL) – Je werkt nu achter de bloemblaadjes van toer 2 langs. Maar nu gebruik je de achterste, in toer 2 ongebruikte lussen.: Begin met een halve vaste naar de eerste achterste lus van toer 2. 2l,2 st in dezelfde lus. in elke volgende lus 2 stokjes, sluit met 1hv in het eerste stokje. (24 stokjes)

    Op de screenshots van de instructie video zie je de achterzijde na toer 2 en de achterste lussen die je zou moeten hebben voor toer 3 (1ste foto) op de 2e foto toont de achterzijde zoals die eruit zou moeten zien na toer 3.

    Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL  |  Free Crochet Purse Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL  |  Free Crochet Purse Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Toer 4: tweede rij bloemblaadjes (VL): 2l. 1st in dezelfde lus, in de volgende lus 1 st, 2l, hv. *een hv naar volgende lus, 2l, 1 st. In volgende lus 1 st, 2l, hv. Herhaal vanaf * ten sluit met en hv in de eerste VL (de basis van het eerste halve blaadje). (12 blaadjes)

    Dit maakt de basis van je bloem compleet, nu gaan we er een vierkant van maken. En ook nu gebruiken we weer de ongebruikte achterste lussen van de vorige toer !

    Toer 5 (AL) : Ga met een hv naar de eerste achterste lus van toer 4. begin weer met 2l. En in dezelfde steek *2 st, 2l, 2 st. (dit wordt je hoek) in de volgende twee lussen 1 hst. in de volgende lus een vaste en weer twee lussen met 1 hst. Nu gaan we weer en hoek maken dus herhaal vanaf * Sluit met een hv in het eerste stokje. (pas op dat je niet de losse neemt)

    Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL  |  Free Crochet Purse Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    (Vanaf nu mag je gewoon beide v’tjes gebruiken geen gedoe meer met VL en AL)

    Toer 6: 1l. Nu in elke steek een hst tot je bij de hoek (2l van vorige toer) komt hier haak je 2 hst,2l, 1hst in de 2l ruimte. Sluit met een hv in het eerste hst. (Je hebt nu 12 hst per zijde).

    Toer 7: 1l. In elke steek een hst tot je bij de 2l in de hoek komt. In deze 2l. ruimte wederom 2hst, 2l, 1 hst. Sluit met een hv in eerste hst. ( je hebt nu 15 hst per zijde).

    Toer 8: 1l. In elke steek een hst tot je bij de 2l in de hoek komt. In deze 2l. ruimte 2hst, 2l, 1 hst. Sluit met een hv in eerste hst.. ( je hebt nu 18 hst per zijde)

    Toer 9: 1l. In elke steek een vaste en in de hoek ruimte’s 1 vaste, 2l, 1 vaste. Sluit de toer met een hv in de eerste v. (je hebt nu 20 vaste per zijde)

    Afhechten en draadjes wegwerken.

  • (ESPAÑOL) Wildflower Shoulder Bag Crochet-Along – Part 1 of 3

    Tenga en cuenta que esta entrada del blog (excepto para el patrón en sí) fue traducido con Google Translate. Me disculpo por cualquier error y espero que usted será capaz de entenderlo en su mayor parte. Comentarios se han convertido en “off” para este puesto, así que si usted tiene preguntas, por favor pregunte en el grupo de Facebook. Hay muchos que hablan español que estén dispuestos a ayudarle.

    Un enorme agradecimiento a Tere Gomis, que tradujo el patrón para nosotros!

    – – – – –

    Bienvenido a la parte 1 del hombro del Wildflower Bolsa CAL! He estado trabajando en esto durante bastante tiempo y estoy muy emocionado de finalmente conseguir comenzado. Durante las próximas 3 semanas, vamos a estar haciendo un magnífico bolso de ganchillo juntos. Si esta es la primera vez que ha oído hablar de la CAL, asegúrese de revisar este post que enumera todos sus materiales necesarios. Incluso si usted es un poco tarde a la fiesta, aún puede participar!

    Y, no se olvide de unirse a la Wildflower Bolsa de hombro CAL Grupo de Facebook para compartir su progreso, obtener consejos de los demás, y tal vez responder a una pregunta o dos usted mismo. Estamos juntos en esto, y eso es lo que hace que sea divertido!

    El calendario para la CAL es el siguiente:

    25 junio: Start Here! Introducción Publicar y Lista de Materiales
    2 de julio: Parte 1, flor plazas (este post)
    9 de julio: Parte 2, de Administración de la Bolsa
    16 julio: Parte 3, Base, Adornos y Correa

    Cada puesto patrón incluirá instrucciones claras, fotos útiles, y un gran video tutorial. Cuando haya terminado con la asignación de cada semana, diríjase al Grupo de Facebook para compartir su progreso. Y no te olvides de entrar a ti mismo en el sorteo, por debajo del patrón. Habrá nuevas oportunidades para agregar entradas cada semana, así que presta atención!

    Así que coge su gancho elegido e hilados, y vamos a empezar! (Desplácese hacia abajo para el patrón y el video tutorial)

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    Estudiante visual? He aquí un video útiles. De hecho, me hago toda la plaza en la cámara, ya que sé que será la primera vez que muchos de ustedes han hecho un motivo cuadrado antes. Si sólo vas a usar el video como una referencia, aquí hay un desglose útil:

    0:39 Ronda 1
    03:48 primera ronda de pétalos
    07:46 Ronda 2
    10:28 segunda ronda de pétalos
    13:03 Rondas 3-7

    El video no aparece? Intente actualizar la página y, si eso no funciona, haga clic aquí.

    Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL  |  Free Crochet Purse Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    WILDFLOWER SHOULDER BAG PARTE 1: MOTIVOS CUADRADOS WILDFLOWER

    Gancho: H (5.00 mm) o cualquier gancho que ha elegido para este proyecto
    Hilo: Algodón-Ease (más de 1 madeja) o cualquier hilo que he elegido para este proyecto
    Dificultad: Fácil
    Gauge: No realmente importante. Asegúrese de que está utilizando un gancho que le da una puntada más estrecha en lugar de uno más flojo.
    Usted también necesitará: Hilados aguja y tijeras

    Abreviaturas:

    Cad = cadeneta
    PA = punto alto (vareta)
    PB = punto bajo
    PMA = punto medio alto (media vareta)
    PR = punto raso (enano)

    Notas: 

    (1) Necesitarás 6 de estos cuadrados.
    (2) Las cadenetas de inicio no cuentan como puntos.
    (3) Fíjate en que algunas de las instrucciones se refieren a SHP (Solo por la hebra delantera del punto) y SHT (Solo por la hebra trasera del punto). Esto es crucial para la construcción de la flor central.
    (4) No se da la vuelta al trabajo en ningún momento.


    Para empezar:

    Haz un círculo mágico; 2 cad.

    Vuelta 1: 12 PA dentro del círculo mágico. Une al primer PA con un PR. (12 PA)

    1ª Vuelta de pétalos (SHP):  2 cad. En el mismo punto, 2 PA, 2 cad, 1 PR. Este es tu primer pétalo. (1 PR en el siguiente punto. En el mismo punto, 2 cads, 2 PA, 2 cad, 1 PR en el mismo punto) en todos los puntos de la vuelta. Unir con un PR en la base de las 2 primeras cad. (12 pétalos)

    Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL  |  Free Crochet Purse Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Vuelta 2 (SHT – Ahora vas a trabajar alrededor de la vuelta 1 otra vez, en esta ocasión trabajando en la parte trasera de los puntos que ignoraste durante la primera vuelta de pétalos): 1 PR en la parte de atrás del primer punto de la Vuelta 1. 2 cad. 2 PA en el mismo punto. 2 PA en cada punto de la vuelta anterior. Unir con un PR al primer PA. (24)

    Estas capturas del videotutorial muestran la parte trasera del círculo de puntos que estarás usando (1ª foto) y la vuelta completada desde la parte de atrás (2ª foto):

    Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL  |  Free Crochet Purse Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL  |  Free Crochet Purse Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    2ª vuelta de pétalos (SHP): 2 cad. 1 PA en el mismo punto. En el próximo punto, 1 PA, 2 cad, 1 PR. (1 PR en el siguiente punto, 2 cad, 1 PA en el mismo punto. En el próximo punto, 1 PA, 2 cad, 1 PR) en todos los puntos de la vuelta anterior, 1 PR en la base de las dos primeras cad. (12 pétalos)

    Con esto se completa la flor central. Ahora vamos a continuar transformándola en un cuadrado.

    Vuelta 3: 1 PR en el primer punto de la vuelta 2, por la parte de atrás, 2 cad. En el mismo punto, 2 PA, 2 cad, 2 PA. Un PMA en los dos próximos puntos, 1 PB en el siguiente. Un PMA en cada uno de los dos próximos puntos. (En el siguiente punto, 2 PA, 2 cad, 2 PA. Un PMA en cada uno de los próximos dos puntos. Un PB en el siguiente. Un PMA en los dos próximos puntos) Repetir lo indicado en () 2 veces más. Unir al primer PA con un PR.

    Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL  |  Free Crochet Purse Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Vuelta 4: 1 cad. Hacer PMA todo alrededor del cuadrado, haciendo (2 PMA, 2 cad, 1 PMA) en cada espacio formado por cad en las esquinas. Unir al primer PMA con un PR. (Cuando termines la vuelta tendrás 12 PMA por lado).

    Vuelta 5: 1 cad. Hacer PMA todo alrededor del cuadrado, haciendo (2 PMA, 2 cad, 1 PMA) en cada espacio formado por cad en las esquinas. Unir al primer PMA con un PR. (Cuando termines la vuelta tendrás 15 PMA por lado).

    Vuelta 6: 1 cad. Hacer PMA todo alrededor del cuadrado, haciendo (2 PMA, 2 cad, 1 PMA) en cada espacio formado por cad en las esquinas. Unir al primer PMA con un PR. (Cuando termines la vuelta tendrás 18 PMA por lado).

    Vuelta 7: 1 cad. Hacer puntos bajos todo alrededor del cuadrado, haciendo (1 PB, 2 cad, 1 PB) en cada espacio formado por cad en las esquinas. Unir al primer PB con un PR. (Cuando termines la vuelta tendrás 20 PB por lado.)

    Cortar el hilo y rematar los hilos sobrantes.

  • (DEUTSCH) Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL – Part 1 of 3

    Bitte beachten Sie die Blog-Post unten wurde via Google Translate übersetzt. Ich entschuldige mich für die Fehler! Ich bin auch drehen Kommentare “off”, weil ich nicht Deutsch sprechen. (Nun, das ist nicht ganz richtig. Ich German nahm in der 6. Klasse, und ich weiß noch gut daran erinnern, wie man für Margarine in einem Supermarkt zu fragen. Aber ich schweife ab.) Bitte besuchen Sie die CAL-Facebook-Gruppe und um Hilfe es von der anderen deutschen -Lautsprecher! 🙂

    Ein riesiges Dankeschön an Barb Miller, der die eigentliche Muster unten umgerechnet.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Willkommen in Teil 1 des Wildflower-Umhängetasche CAL! Ich habe daran gearbeitet für eine ganze Weile und bin wirklich aufgeregt, endlich loszulegen. Im Laufe der nächsten 3 Wochen, wir machen werden einen wunderschönen Häkeln Geldbörse zusammen. Wenn dies das erste Mal, wenn Sie der CAL gehört haben, achten Sie darauf, lesen Sie in diesem Beitrag, dass alle Ihre benötigten Materialien auflistet. Auch wenn Sie ein wenig zu spät, um die Partei sind, können Sie immer noch machen Sie mit!

    Und vergessen Sie nicht, um das Wildflower Umhängetasche CAL Facebook-Gruppe beitreten, um Ihren Fortschritt zu teilen, erhalten Tipps von anderen, und vielleicht nehmen Sie einen oder zwei selbst Frage. Wir sind in einem Boot sitzen, und das ist, was es Spaß macht!

    Der Zeitplan für die CAL ist wie folgt:

    25. Juni: Hier entlang! Intro Post und Materialliste hinzufügen
    2. Juli: Teil 1, Blume Quadrate (Dieser Beitrag)
    9. Juli: Part 2, Körper der Tasche
    16. Juli: Teil 3, Unter, Verzierungen und Strap

    Jedes Muster Post gehören klare Anweisungen, hilfs Fotos an, und ein großes Tutorial-Video. Wenn Sie mit jeder Woche Zuordnung gemacht, den Kopf über die Facebook-Gruppe Ihren Fortschritt zu teilen. Und vergessen Sie nicht, sich in der Werbegeschenk unter dem Muster geben. Es wird neue Möglichkeiten, um Einträge pro Woche hinzuzufügen, so achten!

    So kaufen Sie Ihre gewählten Haken und Garn, und lassen Sie uns beginnen! (Blättern Sie nach unten für das Muster und Tutorial-Video!)

    VIDEOANLEITUNG

    Visueller Lerner? Hier ist ein Video hilfreich. Ich tatsächlich den gesamten Platz vor der Kamera, da ich weiß, dies ist das erste Mal, dass viele von Ihnen haben einen quadratischen Motiv vor gemacht werden. Wenn Sie nur gehen, um das Video als Referenz zu verwenden, hier ist eine Aufschlüsselung hilfreich:

    00.39 Round 1
    03.48 Uhr 1. Runde des Petals
    07.46 Round 2
    10.28 2. Runde der Blütenblätter
    13.03 Runden 3-7

    Video nicht angezeigt? Versuchen Sie die Seite aktualisieren, und wenn das nicht funktioniert, klicken Sie hier.

    Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL  |  Free Crochet Purse Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    WILDBLUMEN UMHÄNGETASCHETEIL 1: WILDBLUMEN QUADRAT MOTIVE

    Hook: H (5,00 mm) oder welche Haken Sie für dieses Projekt gewählt haben
    Garn: Cotton-Ease (mehr als 1 Knäuel) oder welche Garn Sie für dieses Projekt gewählt haben
    Schwierigkeitsgrad: Leicht
    Spur: Nicht wirklich wichtig. Stellen Sie sicher, dass Sie mit einem Haken, der Ihnen eine engere Stich anstatt eine lockerere on werden.
    Weitere Voraussetzungen: Garn Nadel und Schere


    Hinweise:
    (1) Du brauchst 6 von diesen Quadraten.
    (2) Die Luftmaschenketten am Anfang einer Runde zählen nicht als Maschen.
    (3) Beachte das einige der Rundenanleitungen entweder in der „FLO (Front Loop Only – Vorderschlinge) und/oder BLO (Hinterschlinge)“ gehäkelt werden. Dies ist für die Gestaltung der Blumenmitte sehr wichtig.
    (4) Du wirst die Arbeit niemals wenden.
    (5) Abkürzungen: Kettm = Kettmasche, Lftm = Luftmasche, fm = feste Masche, hStb = halbes Stäbchen, Stb = Stäbchen, M = Masche

    Zum Anfang:
Mach einen Magic Circle; 2 Lftm.

    Runde 112 Stb in den magic circle. Mit einer Kettm zum ersten Stb zur Runde schliessen. (12)

    Erste Blütenrunde (FLO = Vorderschlinge): 2 Lftm. In die selbe M, 2 Stb, 2 Lftm, 1 Kettm. Das ist die erste Blüte. (Kettm zur nächsten M. In diese, 2 Lftm, 2 Stb, 2 Lftm, Kettm in die selbe M) rundherum wiederholen. Mit einer Kettm in die erste Lftm der Anfangskette schliessen. (12 Blüten)

    Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL  |  Free Crochet Purse Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Runde 2 (BLO = Hinterschlinge – Du wirst jetzt die allererste Runde (also Runde 1) nochmals häkeln, dieses mal in die Hinterschlingen der Stäbchen von Runde 1): Kettm in die erste Hinterschlinge von Runde 1. 2 Lftm. 2 Stb in die selbe M. 2 Stb in jede M rundherum. Mit einer Kettm zum ersten Stb zur Runde schliessen. (24)

    Diese Fotos vom Lern-Video zeigen die Hinterschlingen auf der Rückseite der Arbeit (1st photo) und die fertiggestellte Runde (2nd photo):

    Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL  |  Free Crochet Purse Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL  |  Free Crochet Purse Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Zweite Blütenrunde (FLO = Vorderschlinge): 2 Lftm. Stb in dieselbe M. In die nächste M: 1 Stb, 2 Lftm, 1 Kettm. (Kettm in die nächste M, 2 Lftm und 1 Stb in die selbe M. In die nächste M: 1 Stb, 2 Lftm, 1 Kettm) rundherum wiederholen. Mit einer Kettm in die erste Lftm vom Rundenbeginn schliessen. (12 Blüten)

    Damit ist die Blumenmitte complett. Nun geht’s mit dem Quadrat Teil weiter.

    Runde 3Kettm in die erste hintere Schlinge von Runde 2. 2 Lftm. In dieselbe M, 2 Stb, 2 Lftm, 2 Stb. 1 hStb in jedes der nächsten 2 M. 1 fM in die nächste M. 1 hStb in jedes der nächsten 2 M. (In die nächste M, 2 Stb, 2 Lftm, 2 Stb. 1 hStb in jedes der nächsten 2 M. 1 fM in die nächste M. 1 hStb in jedes der nächsten 2 M.) Wiederhole die Anleitung in Klammern ( ) noch zweimal. Mit einer Kettm zum ersten Stb schliessen.

    Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL  |  Free Crochet Purse Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Runde 4: 1 Lftm. 1 hStb in jede M, wobei du in jeder Ecke jeweils (2 hStb, 2 Lftm, 1 hStb) häkelst. Mit einer Kettm im ersten hStb zur Runde schliessen. (12 hStb pro Seite.)

    Runde 5Wie Runde 4. (15 hStb pro Seite.)

    Runde 6Wie Runde 4. (18 hStb pro Seite.)

    Runde 71 Lftm. 1 fM in jede M, wobei du in jeder Ecke jeweils (1 fm, 2 Lftm, 1 fM) häkelst. Mit einer Kettm in der ersten fM zur Runde schliessen. (20 fM pro Seite.)

    Faden abschneiden, durch die letzte Schlinge ziehen und vernähen.

  • Wildflower Shoulder Bag (Crochet-Along)

    Wildflower Shoulder Bag (Crochet-Along)

    :::-

    ::: UPDATE :::

    The CAL is officially DONE! But don’t worry, the pattern will remain on my blog for free. If you would like to purchase an inexpensive, ad-free, concise PDF version (American Standard Version only), you can find it on Ravelry or Etsy or get access to this an ALL of my other patterns with an All-Access Pass!

    (Original post below)

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    HEY! Guess what? I’m about to start the very first Little Monkeys Crochet CAL! For those of you who are newer to the crochet world, CAL is short for Crochet-Along. It basically means that a pattern is released in sections over a period of time, and we all follow along together to make it. This CAL will produce a pretty adorable bag I’m calling the Wildflower Shoulder Bag! Using the recommended yarn, its base will measure about 15″ across.

    Interested? Great!

    The Wildflower Shoulder Bag pattern will include clearly-written instructions, helpful photos, and a video tutorial that I’ve been working really hard on over the last few weeks. So whether you work best from a pattern or you’re a more visual learner, you’ll be able to follow along with this easy-level pattern. The schedule for the CAL is as follows:

    June 25: Start Here! Intro Post and Materials List (this post)
    July 2: Part 1, Flower Squares and GIVEAWAY INFO!
    July 9: Part 2, Body of the Bag
    July 16: Part 3, Base, Embellishments and Strap

    Here’s what you can do now to get the most out of the CAL experience:

    1. Join the CAL Facebook group (optional)
    2. Join the Little Monkeys Crochet mailing list (via the aqua-colored form at the top of the blog) so you don’t miss anything (also optional)
    3. Share this blog post in your favorite crochet groups on Facebook (again, optional)
    4. Read through the FAQs at the bottom of this post
    5. Start gathering your materials

    Supply List

    Here’s what you’ll need for this CAL:

    Cotton-Ease Yarn (4 skeins)  This worsted weight yarn from Lion Brand is a blend of cotton and acrylic, and it’s very easy to work with. I made the bag in the photos with the color Stone, which is a lighter medium gray. (You can substitute with 800 yards of a different worsted weight yarn.)

    Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL | Free Crochet Purse Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet5.0mm (H) Hook – Gauge is generally unimportant, as this pattern will work with any yarn and appropriately-sized hook. To achieve the size of the bag in the photo (shown on a petite model), which is 15″ wide x 12″ tall (strap not included), use this gauge:

    4 rows of 6 HDC = 1.5″ square

    Button (1″ or 1-1/8″)

    Plastic Canvas – This can be found at craft stores for less than a dollar. It’s a sheet of plastic mesh that is sold in various sizes. I used a sheet of 13.5″x10.5″. You won’t need this until Week 3 of the CAL.

    (2) 32mm Split Rings – Like what holds your keys on your keychain.

    Needle & Thread – For sewing on your button(s).

    Crochet Basics – Tapestry Needle, Scissors, and a Stitch Marker – I use a bobby pin as a stitch marker.

    OPTIONAL:

    6 Buttons – If you want to add buttons to the center of your flower squares. These buttons should match the button from the list above, which will be used as a closure.

    Leather Purse Strap – If you want to give your shoulder bag a bit fancier of a look.

    2 Rings With Clasps – If you would like your strap to be removable, you can crochet it to these. Then you can switch between the crocheted (casual) look and the leather (chic) look. I also happen to love the look of the extra hardware, so I chose to include these in my bag.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Q. Do I have to join the Facebook group? Is the CAL free?
    A. The CAL is 100% free and you are not required to join/sign up anywhere to participate. You only need access to my blog, which is free. The Facebook group is just a fun way to stay connected and help each other out. Joining my blog e-mail list will ensure that you receive an email when each new part of the CAL is published. These things are all optional.

    Q. Can I use [insert name of a different yarn] instead?
    A. This pattern will work fine with any yarn and appropriately-sized hook. You should consider whether the yarn you wish to use will hold up as a bag. Also, the dimensions of the bag using Cotton-Ease and an H hook will be approximately 15″ wide, so keep that in mind if you choose a thinner or thicker yarn. The width will change.

    Q. What are the details of Cotton-Ease so that I can find something comparable in my home country?
    A. Cotton-Ease, by Lion Brand, is a 50/50 cotton/acrylic blend. It’s a #4 worsted weight yarn and is machine washable and dryable. The skeins come in 3.5oz (100g), 207 yds (188m).

    Q. Is the pattern on Ravelry?
    A. Yes! View on Ravelry.

    Q. What is the plastic canvas for, and can I use [insert a different material here] instead?
    A. The plastic canvas will be used as a base liner (for stability) and will be hidden in between two crocheted pieces. So if you have another material in mind, you can use it instead. Just make sure it’s washable!

    Q. Will the CAL include instructions for lining the bag?
    A. Unfortunately, no… unless you consider “give your bag to your friend who knows how to sew and ask her to line it for you” to be complete instructions. 😉 This bag would benefit from a lining and zipper, though, so if you know how to do it, your bag will be all the better for it. Here is an awesome tutorial that is very similar to the style of this bag.

    Q. Is the CAL going to be available in [insert your native language here]?
    A. The pattern is currently available in American Standard Terms, UK Terms, Dutch, German, Norwegian, Danish, French and Spanish. Everything except the original (American Standard) exists because of kind-hearted translators who simply wanted to help. These versions have very limited support (because I don’t speak the languages), but you can access them all here.

    Q. Will the patterns be printable?
    A. You can purchase an ad-free PDF of the American Standard version in my Etsy shop!

    See you next week!


    Wildflower Shoulder Bag CAL | Free Crochet Purse Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

  • Little Girl’s Wildflower Purse

    Little Girl’s Wildflower Purse

    I have a quick little stashbuster pattern for you today that will bring a big smile to your little girl’s face! Choose her favorite colors to whip up this precious purse. My Neverending Wildflower pattern serves as the foldover panel, and the rest is just single crochet and some seaming. As my 4 year old son would say, “easy peasy, lemon squeezy!”

    LITTLE GIRL’S WILDFLOWER PURSE

    Hook: H (5.50mm) or size appropriate for the yarn you choose
    Yarn: The yarn you choose doesn’t matter, as long as your hook is a good match for it. I used an H hook and about 110 yards of worsted weight yarn for my purse in the photos, which measures 5″ wide and 7″ tall (not including the strap).
    Difficulty: Easy
    Gauge: Unimportant

    Notes:


    • This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    • Flower rounds will alternate between increase rounds and petals. Increase rounds will be called “round 1, 2, 3” etc, and petal rounds will be referred to as “1st round of petals, 2nd round of petals,” etc. Because ch petal round shares its space with the increase round below it, they are not counted as part of the pattern’s total rounds.
    • CH2 on the increase rounds does not count as a stitch.
    • Be mindful that the flower pattern alternates in calling for FLO (Front Loops Only) and BLO (Back Loops Only). This is crucial.
    • If you’re having trouble with the flower, this post has tutorial photos that may help you.
    • In my step-by-step photos, you’ll see a flower with blue and white petals. It’s up to you if you want to change colors.

    PART I: THE FLOWER

    Begin with a Magic Circle; CH2.

    Round 1: 12 DC in MC. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (12)

    1st Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. In same St, 2DC, CH2, SL ST. This is your first petal. (SL ST to next St. In same St, CH2, 2DC, CH2, SL ST to same St) around. SL ST to base of 1st CH2. (12 petals)

    Round 2 (BLO – You’re now going to work around Round 1 again, this time working in the loop that you ignored during the first round of petals): SL ST to 1stback loop of Round 1. CH2. 2DC in same ST. 2 DC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (24)

    2nd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1stCH2. (12 petals)

    Round 3 (BLO): SL ST to 1st back loop of Round 2. CH2. 2DC in same ST, DC in next ST. (2DC in next ST, DC in next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (36)

    3rd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1st CH2. (12 petals)

    Round 4 (BLO): SL ST to 1st back loop of Round 3. CH2. 2DC in same ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (48)

    4th Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1st CH2. To complete flower, SL ST to 1st BLO of Round 4. (12 petals)

    At this point, your flower should look like this:

    Little Girl's Wildflower Purse  |  Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Take a moment to fasten off and weave in all your ends. Then attach whatever yarn you’re going to use for the body of the purse. It doesn’t matter where you attach it; just be sure you haven’t turned the flower. The petals should be facing you.

    PART II: THE BODY OF THE PURSE

    Row 1: CH2, 2DC in same ST. DC in each of the next 2 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 4 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. DC in each of the next 2 STS. 2DC in next. (18)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. HDC in same. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 10 STS. HDC in each of the last 4 STS. (18)

    Row 3: Ch1, turn. SC across. (18)

    Rows 4-47: Repeat Row 3. (18)

    Here’s what we’ve got now (back view):

    Little Girl's Wildflower Purse  |  Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    PART III: SEAMING IT UP AND ADDING THE STRAP

    Lay it out with the petals facing down (as in the previous photo). Bring up the bottom and line it up with the 3rd row, which is the first row to be done in all SC (below, left). CH1 and SC evenly along the edge, inserting your hook through both layers, seaming it together (below, right).

    Little Girl's Wildflower Purse  |  Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Once you’ve seamed that edge, fasten off and weave in your ends. (I wove mine in on the inside of the purse.)

    Attach the yarn at the bottom of the purse on the other edge (below, left), still keeping the petals facing down. CH1 and SC evenly along the edge until you reach the end of the folded-up layer (below, middle). CH60 (or however long you want your strap to be… I made mine with a young toddler in mind). SL ST to the opposite top corner from where you started (below, right), then turn and go back around the CH60, SCing into each chain until you are back where you started. SL ST to the corner, fasten off and weave in ends.

    Little Girl's Wildflower Purse  |  Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    If you want to, you can cut out a piece of felt and glue it to the back of the flower to hide the “wrong side”.

    Little Girl's Wildflower Purse  |  Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    And you’re done!

    Little Girl's Wildflower Purse  |  Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

  • Basketweave Throw Pillow

    Basketweave Throw Pillow

    Ever since I made my first throw pillow, the 12″ Buttoned Throw Pillow, I’ve been on a bit of a pillow kick. Once I made one, about a dozen ideas for different ones started flooding into my head. The thing I love about crocheted throw pillows is that you can make them whatever color you want to match your decor, and between all the crochet stitches and color schemes out there, the design possibilities are endless. They’re a nice break from all the hats and scarves I’ve been making all winter, too!

    This new throw pillow pattern is super cute, if I do say so myself. It utilizes the basketweave stitch, which looks so much more complicated than it really is. Even if you’re a beginner, give it a try. You might surprise yourself, and you’ll certainly impress your family and friends!

    One thing I’ve learned in the process of making throw pillows is that they fit over the inserts the best when they’re just slightly smaller in length than the insert itself. So for this 12″ pillow, I edged both sides in SC until they were about 11.75″ (that’s width, not corner-to-corner). Any larger than that, and I’ve found that the edges get wavy and floppy and just don’t lay as nicely. So for this pattern, although I SC’d around the 3 times, you should measure your piece before edging and only add as many rounds of edging as you need to get to about 11.75″. You might need more or less than I did.

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

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    BASKETWEAVE THROW PILLOW

    Hook: H (5.00mm)
    Yarn: About 340 yards (170 yards for each side) of your favorite medium worsted weight yarn
    Difficulty: Easy
    Gauge: 7DC per 2″. If yours is slightly tighter, it’s not going to matter because I’ve given instructions on the “edging” section that will help you adapt the pattern to get to the right measurements. If your tension is looser than mine, however, you’ll want to adjust your hook size down.
    You’ll also need: 12″ throw pillow insert (I got mine at Hobby Lobby), tape measure, yarn needle and scissors.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
    (2) Starting Ch2 DOES count as 1st stitch of each row.

    PATTERN (MAKE 2):

    Ch 37.

    Row 1: DC in 3rd Ch from hook. Dc across. (36, including starting Ch)

    Row 2: Ch 2; turn. Skipping 1st DC from previous row (see photo), FPDC in next 3 Sts. (BPDC in next 4 Sts, FPDC in next 4 Sts) across. (36)

    Your Ch2 will serve as the 1st stitch of the row, so do your first FPDC (or BPDC) in the 2nd stitch.

    Row 3: Ch 2; turn. Skipping 1st DC from previous row, BPDC in next 3 Sts. (FPDC in next 4 Sts, BPDC in next 4 Sts) across. (36)

    Row 4: Ch 2; turn. Skipping 1st DC from previous row, BPDC in next 3 Sts. (FPDC in next 4 Sts, BPDC in next 4 Sts) across. (36)

    Row 5: Ch 2; turn. Skipping 1st DC from previous row, FPDC in next 3 Sts. (BPDC in next 4 Sts, FPDC in next 4 Sts) across. (36)

    Rows 6-?: Repeat rows 2-5 until the length is approximately the same as the width. (Mine took 26 rows. Since you’re making two of these, be sure to crochet the same number of rows for both pillow pieces.)

    Edging:

    Round 1: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting 3SC in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC.  (NOTE: Two of your sides will have exactly 36 stitches, and your goal is to get as close to that as you can on the other two sides, so that you’ll end up with a perfect or close-to-perfect square. You may have to do a little visual math here. I did it by dividing the side into fourths – you can place a bobbie pin in the center, and then again in the center of each half, to help you visualize this. Then, because

    36 (stitches) ÷ 4 (sections) = 9

    …I put 9 SCs in each section. I know, I’m such a nerd, but I made you a diagram.)

    Basketweave Throw Pillow Crochet Pattern  |  free crochet pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Round 2: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting 3SC in each corner (which would be the middle SC from the previous round’s 3 corner SCs). Join with Sl St to 1st SC.

    Measure your width. If it’s not 11.75″ yet, repeat Round 2 until it is.

    For Pillow Side 1, fasten off and weave in ends. For Pillow Side 2, do not fasten off; weave in only your starting end, and continue to sewing instructions.

    Sewing the Pillow Together:

    Hold both pillow pieces together with the unfinished one closest to you, wrong sides facing each other, right sides facing out. (If you’re a perfectionist, you may want to make sure that the stitches from both pieces are going in the same direction, although it won’t affect assembly either way.) Insert your hook into the loop of the unfinished side, then slip stitch through the top loops of both pillow pieces. Ch1. Working through both pillow pieces throughout, SC in same St and evenly around 3 sides, putting 3SC in each corner. When you finish the 3rd side, insert your pillow. Continue to SC around the final side, sewing the pillow shut. Fasten off and weave in ends.

  • Never Ending Wildflower 12″ Granny Square

    Never Ending Wildflower 12″ Granny Square

    Welcome, Moogly Afghan CAL visitors!

    If you’ve spent much time around my blog (and welcome, to those of you who haven’t), you know that I like to create modern, clean-looking patterns.  I like simple color schemes, clean lines, and contemporary styles!

    That’s why I decided to use my Never Ending Wildflower to create this square. The interest of this pattern doesn’t come from the square itself, but from the beauty of its focal centerpiece, the large, multi-petal wildflower. Of course, you can incorporate as many different colors into this pattern as you want; for me, I prefer just using two, and I love how the contrast makes the flower leap right off the square.

    If you’d like to see the original pattern for the Never Ending Wildflower, and learn how to make it even bigger for different uses, you can view that pattern here.
    The Never Ending Wildflower Crochet Pattern | Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet (www.littlemonkeyscrochet.com)

     

    And for our Dutch friends joining in on the Moogly CAL:
    Dit patroon is (door HET HAAKBEEST) in het Nederlands vertaald. Je vindt een versie met foto’s voor rechtshandigen, eentje met foto’s speciaal voor linkshandigen, en een printerversie zonder foto’s.

     

    THE NEVER ENDING WILDFLOWER 12″ GRANNY SQUARE

    Hook: I (5.50mm)
    Yarn: Vanna’s Choice, or your favorite worsted weight yarn. I used less than 100 yards (each) of Vanna’s Choice in White and Dusty Blue for my sample.
    Difficulty: Easy
    Gauge: Circle after Round 3 should measure 3.75” in diameter.
    Final Size: 12″x12″

    Notes:


    • This pattern is written in American Standard Terms. The flower portion is taken from my original pattern, The Never Ending Wildflower.
    • The flower, including its petals, are worked as a part of the granny square as a whole. Rounds will alternate between increase rounds and petals. Increase rounds will be called “round 1, 2, 3” etc, and petal rounds will be referred to as “1st round of petals, 2nd round of petals,” etc. Because each petal round shares its space with the increase round below it, they are not counted as part of the pattern’s total rounds.
    • CH1 on the increase rounds does not count as a stitch.
    • Be mindful that the pattern alternates in calling for FLO (Front Loops Only) and BLO (Back Loops Only).
    • Each round of petals has 12 total petals. The first round of petals will cover 1 ST (of the previous round) per petal. The 2nd round of petals will cover 2 STS per petal, the 3rd round 3 STS, and so on.

     

    PART 1: THE FLOWER

    Begin with a Magic Circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 12 DC in MC. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (12)

    1st Round of Petals (FLO – don’t miss this!): CH2. In same St, 2DC, CH2, SL ST. This is your first petal. (SL ST to next St. In same St, CH2, 2DC, CH2, SL ST to same St) around. SL ST to base of 1st CH2. (12 petals)
    The Never Ending Wildflower  |  Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Round 2 (BLO – You’re now going to work around Round 1 again, this time working in the loop that you ignored during the first round of petals): SL ST to 1st back loop of Round 1. CH1. 2DC in same ST. 2 DC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (24)
    The Never Ending Wildflower  |  Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    2nd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1st CH2. (12 petals)

    Round 3 (BLO): SL ST to 1st back loop of Round 2. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in next ST. (2DC in next ST, DC in next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (36)

    3rd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1st CH2. (12 petals)

    Round 4 (BLO): SL ST to 1st back loop of Round 3. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (48)

    4th Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1st CH2. To complete flower, SL ST to 1st BLO of Round 4. (12 petals)

    Change colors if desired.

     

    PART 2: THE GRANNY SQUARE

    Round 5: CH2 (does not count as a stitch, here and throughout the rest of the pattern). In same ST, 2DC, CH2, 2DC. DC in next. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. DC in next ST. (In next ST, 2DC, CH2, 2DC. DC in next. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. DC in next ST) 3 times. Join to 1st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 15.)

    Round 6: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 19.)

    Round 7: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 23.)

    Round 8: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 27.)

    Round 9: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 31.)

    Round 10: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 35.)

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

  • Never Ending Wildflower

    Never Ending Wildflower

    I’ve got a great new flower pattern and tutorial for you! I’ve been brainstorming how to make a “giant flower” for a while, and I’m finally happy with what I’ve come up with. I’m loving this flower and am so exited about all of its potential uses.

    What makes this flower “never-ending” is how it is built. Between each round of petals is a round of increases, so the petals don’t pile on top of each other. What that means is that rather than getting taller and bulkier, the flower stays the same height, and just gets wider. So, theoretically, you could keep adding rounds of petals and increases to make it the size of a football field, and it would still only be less than an inch tall, making it great as an addition to things like blankets and throw pillows. It’s not 1-dimensional like your typical appliqué; it has depth and interest, without the bulk.

    And what’s really cool is that this flower works right into a granny square, so you can use it in an afghan or as a throw pillow cover. I’m telling you, the applications are as endless as your imagination. If you want to see how I turned this flower into a granny square, check out this blog post!

    …And if you like this flower, you’re going to LOVE the Wildflower Shoulder Bag:

    A note about this pillow & afghan combo…

    flowerpillowI have gotten so many emails, messages and comments about the pattern for the pillow shown in this photo. It is not my creation (someone used the Neverending Wildflower and turned it into a pillow), and unfortunately, the photo of it keeps getting linked to me. I do not have this pattern variation. I can, however, tell you that the stunning blanket pictured with it is Sophie’s Universe by Dedri Uys.

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    THE NEVERENDING WILDFLOWER

    Hook: H (5.00mm) or size appropriate for the yarn you choose
    Yarn: The yarn you choose doesn’t matter, as long as your hook is a good match for it. I used an H hook and worsted weight yarn for my sample in the photos, which measures 8″ across.
    Difficulty: Easy
    Gauge: Unimportant

    Video Tutorial (sort of): If you have a hard time getting this pattern started, there is a video tutorial for my Wildflower Shoulder Bag that matches up with the first two rounds of petals in this pattern. Please note that after the 2nd round of petals, the video will no longer be applicable (but by then, you’ll probably have the hang of it anyway). View tutorial here.

    Notes:


    • This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    • Rounds will alternate between increase rounds and petals. Increase rounds will be called “round 1, 2, 3” etc, and petal rounds will be referred to as “1st round of petals, 2nd round of petals,” etc. Because ch petal round shares its space with the increase round below it, they are not counted as part of the pattern’s total rounds.
    • CH1 on the increase rounds does not count as a stitch.
    • Be mindful that the pattern alternates in calling for FLO (Front Loops Only) and BLO (Back Loops Only).
    • Each round of petals has 12 total petals. The first round of petals will cover 1 ST (of the previous round) per petal. The 2nd round of petals will cover 2 STS per petal, the 3rd round 3 STS, and so on. I’m giving you instructions up to 5 rounds of petals, but using this formula and a little imagination, you can make it even bigger.

    THE PATTERN

    Begin with a Magic Circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 12 DC in MC. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (12)

    1st Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. In same St, 2DC, CH2, SL ST. This is your first petal. (SL ST to next St. In same St, CH2, 2DC, CH2, SL ST to same St) around. SL ST to base of 1st CH2. (12 petals)
    The Never Ending Wildflower  |  Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Round 2 (BLO – You’re now going to work around Round 1 again, this time working in the loop that you ignored during the first round of petals): SL ST to 1st back loop of Round 1. CH1. 2DC in same ST. 2 DC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (24)
    The Never Ending Wildflower  |  Free Crochet Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    2nd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1st CH2. (12 petals)

    Round 3 (BLO): SL ST to 1st back loop of Round 2. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in next ST. (2DC in next ST, DC in next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (36)

    3rd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1st CH2. (12 petals)

    Round 4 (BLO): SL ST to 1st back loop of Round 3. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (48)

    4th Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1st CH2. To complete flower, SL ST to 1st BLO of Round 4. (12 petals)

    Round 5 (BLO): SL ST to 1st back loop of Round 4. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in each of the next 3 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 3 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (60)

    5th Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in each of the next 3 STS. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in each of the next 3 STS. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1st CH2. (12 petals)

    Fasten off and weave in ends, or keep adding increase rounds and petal rounds to make it even bigger!

  • Buttoned Throw Pillow

    Buttoned Throw Pillow

    I’ve been watching a lot of HGTV lately. We purchased our first house this past fall, and for the first time in my life, I have the final say (well, with the husband of course) on what my home looks like! We’ve already tackled our dining room, painting it the most beautiful shade of blue. Next on the list? The living room! While it’ll take us a little while to save the money for this next makeover, that doesn’t stop me from imagining the possibilities.  So, when I see the big reveals on shows like Fixer Upper (my favorite!) and Love It Or List It (also a great one), I can’t help but analyze all of their design choices and make mental notes of which ones would fit nicely into my own dream living room.

    One thing I know for sure about my living room makeover is that I want it to incorporate a few of my own handmade items. I can definitely see my Mason Jar Cozy up on the fireplace mantel, and a larger version of my Sweet Ocean Breeze blanket draped over the couch. This newest project, the Buttoned Throw Pillow, is just one more way to incorporate my yarn obsession into the space!

    This pattern is for a 12″ throw pillow, but it’s not difficult to make bigger (or smaller). I’ve included those directions in the notes section of the pattern.

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

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    12″ BUTTONED THROW PILLOW

    Hook: H (5.00mm)
    Yarn: About 260 yards (130 per side) of your favorite medium worsted weight yarn
    Difficulty: Easy
    Gauge: 4 rows of 4 SC = 1 square inch
    You’ll also need: 12″ uncovered throw pillow (I got mine at Hobby Lobby), yarn needle, decorative buttons of your choice, and tools to attach buttons.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
    (2) The buttons are decorative only, so I didn’t worry about adding button holes. If you wanted to make this a removable pillowcase, you could probably figure it out pretty easily. I really wanted the raised seam look all the way around the pillow so I opted not to overlap the fabric.
    (3) To make the pattern for a larger or smaller pillow, just make sure to begin with an odd number of chains. Your starting chain and first row, when stretched, should barely touch both seams of your insert pillow (keeping in mind that you’ll be adding a couple small rows of border at the end).

    PATTERN FOR FRONT SIDE:

    Ch 37.
    Row 1: SC in 2nd Ch from hook and in each Ch across. (36)
    Row 2: Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across. (36)
    Rows 3-6: Repeat Row 2.
    Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Sk 1st St. SC+DC in next St. (Sk next St, SC+DC in next St) across. (36)
    Rows 8-36: Repeat Row 7.

    Edging:
    Round 1: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC. You should have 36 SC on each side.
    Round 2: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC. You should have 38 SC on each side. Fasten off and weave in ends.

    Finishing:
    Attach buttons evenly spaced down the 1st 6 rows of the pillow (where you did the SCs only).

    PATTERN FOR BACK SIDE:

    Ch 37.
    Row 1: SC+DC in 3rd Ch from hook. (Sk next St, SC+DC in next St) across. (36)
    Row 2: Ch 1. Sk 1st St. SC+DC in next St. (Sk next St, SC+DC in next St) across. (36)
    Rows 3-36: Repeat Row 2.

    Edging:
    Round 1: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC. You should have 36 SC on each side.
    Round 2: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC. You should have 38 SC on each side. Fasten off and weave in ends.

    Sewing Sides Together:
    Hold both sides together as you want them to be placed on the pillow. Join your yarn through both pieces, somewhere on the edge (I started in a corner). Ch1, then SC through the lined-up stitches from both pieces, seaming them together. Continue around 3 sides of the pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Insert pillow. Continue to SC along the remaining side, enclosing the pillow completely. Join with a Sl St to the first SC of the round, fasten off and weave in ends.

  • Basic Men’s Hat

    Basic Men’s Hat

    Project status: Complete | Hats collected: 565

    Please note that this pattern was originally a part of the Hats for the Homeless campaign from 2015. We are no longer collecting hats for this project, but the pattern can still be found below!

    BASIC MEN’S HAT SEAMLESS CROCHET PATTERN

    Hook: I (5.50mm)
    Yarn: Soft worsted weight yarn (I typically use Hobby Lobby’s “I Love This Yarn” or Lion Brand’s “Vanna’s Choice”)
    Difficulty: Easy

    Notes:

    • You will work in a continuous round. You will not join or turn. Use a stitch marker to keep track of your rows.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    With I hook, make a Magic Circle (also known as an Adjustable Loop).

    Round 1: 8 HDC in magic circle. Do not join. (8)
    Round 2: 2 HDC in first St from Round 1 and in each stitch around (16)
    Round 3: (2 HDC in next St; 1 HDC in next) around (24)
    Round 4: (2 HDC in next St; 1 HDC in each of the next 2 St) around (32)
    Round 5: (2 HDC in next St; 1 HDC in each of the next 3 St) around (40)
    Round 6: (2 HDC in next St; 1 HDC in each of the next 4 St) around (48)
    Round 7: (2 HDC in next St; 1 HDC in each of the next 5 St) around (56)
    Rounds 8-21: 1 HDC in each St around (56)
    Rounds 22-25: 1 SC in each St around (56)

    Fasten off and weave in ends.