Category: All Free Patterns

Wildflower Dish Scrubby
Thank you to Red Heart for providing the yarn for this sample!

Not long ago, a really fun box of yarn from Red Heart landed on my doorstep. Included inside were two skeins of “Scrubby“, a yarn I’d seen online, but never in person. I couldn’t wait to get started playing with it! I came up with this cute little dish scrubby pattern in the shape of the wildflower that’s been so popular on the blog.

About the Yarn

Red Heart Scrubby is a #4 worsted weight, extremely textured polyester yarn. Thanks to that texture, it gets the gunk off your dishes with ease, and the polyester dries quicker than cotton. If you aren’t a fan of cotton crocheted dishcloths, this might be the perfect alternative!

Because of the texture, Scrubby isn’t as easy to crochet with as a typical worsted weight yarn. I was a little intimidated at first, but once I got going with it, I was fine. It takes a little concentration (and a lot of bright light!), but as long as you understand the different parts of a stitch and what to look for, you’ll get the hang of crocheting with Scrubby!

If you need a little extra help, check out this awesome help video from Marly Bird:

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WILDFLOWER SCRUBBY

Hook: I (5.50mm)
Yarn: Red Heart Scrubby in two colors (< one ball of each). I used Grape (Color “A”) and Jelly (Color “B”).
Difficulty: Easyish (the yarn is a bit tricky at first!)
Gauge: Unimportant
Finished Size: Sample is 5.5″ wide

Notes: 
- This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
- Rounds will alternate between increase rounds and petals. Increase rounds will be called “round 1, 2, 3” etc, and petal rounds will be referred to as “1^st round of petals, 2^nd round of petals,” etc. Because ch petal round shares its space with the increase round below it, they are not counted as part of the pattern’s total rounds.
- CH1 on the increase rounds does not count as a stitch.
- Be mindful that the pattern alternates in calling for FLO (Front Loops Only) and BLO (Back Loops Only).
- This pattern is based off of my Neverending Wildflower. If you haven’t done this pattern before, it might be a good idea to try the pattern below with regular yarn before attempting it with Scrubby. If you need a little extra help, give this pattern a try (it has photo tutorials).
THE PATTERN

With Color A, begin with a Magic Circle; CH1.

Round 1: 12 DC in MC. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (12)

Switch to Color B.

1st Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (6 petals)

Switch to Color A.

Round 2 (BLO – You’re now going to work around Round 1 again, this time working in the loop that you ignored during the first round of petals): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 1. CH1. 2DC in same ST. 2 DC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (24)

2nd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Switch to Color B.

Round 3 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 2. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in next ST. (2DC in next ST, DC in next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (36)

3rd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2DC in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2DC in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.
May 3, 2016
Color Block Placemat

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for supplying the yarn for this sample!

Before we talk about this fabulous yarn, can we talk about this fabulous table!? My dad made it for me! Isn’t it gorgeous? I’ve wanted a farmhouse-style dining table for years and I can’t believe it’s mine! And the fact that my dad made it makes it infinitely more special than anything I could’ve found in a store. (He’s in the process of making some benches for it, but until then, try to look past the totally-not-matching-chairs from my previous table.)

I decided to make some placemats for it; you know, for when guests come over and we pretend that we’re classier than we really are. I’ve been wanting to try Lion Brand Yarn’s 24/7 Cotton, and I had a hunch that placemats might be just the right project. Have you seen the color choices for this yarn? Beautiful!

About the Yarn

24/7 Cotton is a #4 medium weight yarn, although I’d definitely put it on the lighter side of the #4 family. It’s 100% mercerized cotton, which means it’s been treated with a process that brings out its brightness and sheen and helps it withstand multiple washings without losing that sheen. It comes in 186-yard skeins in a range of 24 gorgeous colors, from striking brights to natural-looking neutrals. It produces a stiffish (that’s probably not a real word) fabric, has a great balance of sheen and stitch definition, and doesn’t split at all during use. I’ve been seriously impressed with Lion Brand’s recently released yarns, and 24/7 Cotton is really no exception.

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COLOR BLOCK PLACEMAT

Level: Easy

Size: 13″x18″ (standard placemat size)

Hook: G (4.25mm)

Yarn: About 75-80 yards per color block of #4 medium weight 100% mercerized cotton yarn. I used 24/7 Cotton (by Lion Brand) in color blocks of Lilac, White, Café Au Lait, and Ecru. (Helpful tip: 1 skein of each color will produce 2 placemats, but 2 skeins of each color will produce 5 placemats.)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Gauge: 10 rows of 10 SC = a 2.25″ square

Abbreviations Used:
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
With first color, CH 55.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (54)

Rows 2-17: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (54)

Row 18: CH1, turn. SC in first ST and in each ST across. (54)

Helpful tip: The SCs in Rows 18 & 19 help us to create a nice straight line where color blocks come together. If we didn’t add it, the color changes would have a more jagged edge.

Switch to a new color; fasten off previous color.

Row 19: CH1, turn. SC in first ST and in each ST across. (54)

Rows 20-35: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (54)

Row 36: CH1, turn. SC in first ST and in each ST across. (54)

For the two remaining color blocks: Switch to a new color and fasten off the previous color, then repeat Rows 19-36. (You will end with 4 color blocks totaling 72 rows.)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

April 17, 2016
Throw Pillow with Removable Flower Accents

Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!

I love throw pillows! They’re so simple to make, and they add so much character to a couch or bed.

For this pillow, I used 220 Superwash from Cascade Yarns (in “Ridge Rock”). This is a popular yarn from Cascade, and it’s my first experience with it. I absolutely love it! It’s soft, but sturdy. It was perfect for the pillow, but would also be great for a hat or scarf. I love that the yarn is not dull-looking, but is still matte enough that it shows off stitch work wonderfully. Click here to see all of the beautiful colors available!

I decided to accent this pillow with a pop of color using three fabric flowers from Hobby Lobby:

The great thing about these flowers is that they’re actually hair clips; so they’re super easy to attach to the pillow, and are completely rearrangeable/removable. If my decor changes, I can simply find different fabric flower clips. So simple!

Enjoy this easy pattern!

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12″ THROW PILLOW (WITH REMOVABLE FLOWER ACCENTS)

Level: Easy

Size: Pattern will fit a standard 12″ throw pillow insert. (Instructions for adjusting the size are including in the Notes section.)

Hook: H (5.00mm)

Yarn: 310-320 yards of 220 Superwash from Cascade Yarns (sample shown in “Ridge Rock”). 220 Superwash is a #4 worsted weight yarn.

You’ll also need: 12″ throw pillow insert, yarn needle, fabric flower hair clips (optional)

Gauge: 8 rows of 12 SC = 3″ square

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
(3) To make the pattern for a larger or smaller pillow, just make sure to begin with an odd number of chains. Your starting chain and first row, when gently stretched, should come just short of the seams of your insert pillow (keeping in mind that you’ll be adding a couple small rows of border at the end).

PATTERN (MAKE 2):

To begin: CH 45.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each CH across. (44)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (44)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44)
Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44)
Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (44)
Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (44)
Row 7: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44)
Row 8: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44)
Rows 9-44: Repeat Rows 5-8. (44)

Edging: CH1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC. You should have 44 SC on each side.

Sewing Sides Together:
Hold both sides together as you want them to be placed on the pillow. Join your yarn through both pieces, somewhere on the edge (I started in a corner). Ch1, then SC through the lined-up stitches from both pieces, seaming them together:

Continue around 3 sides of the pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Insert pillow. Continue to SC along the remaining side, enclosing the pillow completely. Join with a Sl St to the first SC of the round, fasten off and weave in ends.

Attach your flowers (optional). Done!

April 12, 2016
Providence Scarf

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!

Have you seen Lion Brand’s new yarn, Shawl In A Ball?

Boasting the potential to create an entire stunning shawl with just one skein, it might be just now starting to show up at your local craft stores. (Or, you can purchase it direct from Lion Brand, or from Joann Fabrics in limited colors.) I had a chance to try it, and can I just say, wow.

I realize this is not a shawl, but I’ll get to that.

When I first held the yarn in my hands, I was really surprised that it was a category 4 (worsted) yarn. It really feels so much lighter.

The first thing I thought when I started working with it was, “wow, this is like a really thin version of Homespun.” Which freaked me out a little, because (honesty time) I’ve never successfully completed a pattern with Homespun. I love what people are able to make with it, but it’s just too difficult for me to see the stitches. Shawl In A Ball has that similar crinkly feel to it, so I decided to use a stitch combo that I was very familiar with to ensure I would be able to recognize the loops. Once I got past the first row, I really got the hang of it. It’s like anything new; you just have to give it a chance! And you will be soooo glad you did.

Ok, so I know it’s called Shawl In A Ball, but I’m not a shawl-wearer. So, I decided to take it in a little bit different direction, and used it to make this gorgeous infinity scarf. Aren’t you just drooling over those gradual color changes? I had so much fun making this and was so motivated to keep going because I was enjoying the color changes so much. And the finished look of the stitches creates this beautiful fabric that is light and drapes perfectly. I honestly think Lion Brand hit it out of the park with this yarn!

The scarf is wide, so it could be worn over the shoulders in more of a shawl or wrap fashion. My model here is very petite, so it was too large to hang secure on her shoulders, but I bunched it up in the back a bit to at least be able to show you what it would look like. You could simply measure the shoulder width of the intended recipient, and crochet enough rows to match that needed length. Or, you could secure it with a cute pin.

Of course, there are lots of beautiful colorways to choose from, and you’re bound to find one that suits your personality. The name of the color used in my sample is “Mindful Mauve.” If you can’t find it in stores yet, you can buy it from Joann Fabrics Online in limited colors (or, as always, you can get it direct from Lion Brand).

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PROVIDENCE SCARF

Size:  Scarf measures 40″ around and is 10″ tall (not including fringe).
Gauge:  Not crucial, because you can simply chain until you reach 10″. But, in my scarf, a row of 22 stitches is about 5″ in length (and 10 rows of the pattern are about 3″).
Hook: I (5.50mm)
Yarn: 1 skein of Lion Brand Shawl In A Ball (sample shown in “Mindful Mauve”)
You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Abbreviations Used:
CH (chain)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) It is crocheted as a flat piece, then seamed at the end.
(3) CH1 at the beginning of rounds does not count as a stitch.
(4) Note that the yarn needed for the fringe is cut from the skein first, so that we can be sure to have enough. You’ll notice on my sample scarf that I alternated between two colors of fringe; this was accomplished because the first few yards of my skein were purple, but they were attached with a manufacturer’s knot to the rest of the skin, which started cream-colored (that was the only knot I found). So, I cut off the purple and set it aside, then cut off enough of the cream for the rest of the fringe, then proceeded to make the scarf. (In other words, I got lucky, and made lemonade out of lemons. Every skein will be different.)

FRINGE

Before we even pick up our hook, we first need to set aside some yarn. We’ll be using the whole skein for this pattern, so we want to make sure we have enough yarn left for fringe! Grab a cutting board or something sturdy that’s somewhere between 8-10″ wide, and follow the instructions below.

1. Wrap the yarn all the way around the cutting board about 40 times. Wrap it snug, but don’t wrap it crazy-tight. Try to be consistent.
2. Take a good pair of scissors and carefully cut the yarn right down the center of the pile.
3. You now have a pile of yarn strands approximately 18″ long. Very carefully, fold it in half and cut at the halfway point again. You should now have about 80 strands of yarn, about 9″ long apiece. Set it aside for when you’ve completed the pattern.

PATTERN

To begin:
CH45. (This should measure about 10″ when lightly stretched; add or subtract chains as necessary, just be sure to begin with an odd number of chains.)

Row 1: SC+HDC in 3rd CH from hook. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44)

Rows 2-132 (or until you get to the end of your skein, or until the scarf is the length you want it to be): CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44)

Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough to seam the scarf. Use your yarn needle and finishing tail to whip stitch both ends together.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Attaching the Fringe

Attach fringe to every other row along the entire length of one side of the scarf.

March 29, 2016
Tabby Chic Cat Bed
If you follow me on social media, you know that we’ve recently added a very unlikely member to our family. And when I say “unlikely”, I mean that never in my life did I ever think I would own a cat. My older sister was allergic to them, so I never had one growing up; and, I have always been a big dog person. Like, literally, big dogs. Not cats. While I love animals of all kinds, I just never had an interest in owning a cat. So a month ago, if you’d told me I was going to be publishing a pattern for a cat bed, I would have given you a very strange look.

But, here we are!

And that’s all thanks to Simba, the little orange cat that coughed and sneezed his way into a permanent place in our family.

He came to us with a bad upper respiratory infection, ear mites, and eyes so red and gunky he couldn’t hardly open them after a nap. And I tried really hard to stay unattached. But this kitty is impossible not to love. When I was crocheting on the couch one morning not long after we brought him home, he came over, wrapped his paws around my arm, laid his head on me, and fell asleep; and that’s pretty much how he is all the time — cuddly and sweet, and just wanting to be with people. When we didn’t receive any leads on our “lost kitty” posts for a week, I finally admitted to myself that even though I’ve never been a cat person, I really wanted to be his person. And we decided to keep him.

A few days after that decision, I hosted our church’s Women’s Life Group at my home as I do every week. One of the women who attends owns a large horse farm a few miles from our church (where my husband found Simba), and the moment she saw him, she immediately recognized him as one of her barn kitties that had been missing for a while. My heart sank. But when I told her we’d give him back (after all, my children had known from the beginning that his owners might show up), this wonderful woman didn’t even hesitate to say “No, he’s yours. I think he chose your family. God meant him for you.”

And that’s the story of how Simba chose our family!

Of course, I decided pretty early on that I needed to make him something. I thought a bed would be the perfect thing, and I wanted it to have a rustic look to it, so I headed to Michaels to find a thick, rustic yarn, and Loops & Threads Chunky was the perfect fit. I also designed a cute little tag for it and ordered the finished item from MemorableLand on Etsy. Dmitry did a wonderful job putting my vision on these wooden tags!

–

About the Rescued Tag

Now, I guess Simba isn’t technically a rescue pet. We now know where he came from, and had we not wanted him, he would have been welcomed back to his farm with open arms. But I had ordered these wooden tags from MemorableLand before we had that information… and given the fact that I was in a bit of a rough patch when this little kitty came into our lives, it’s safe to say that Simba sort of “rescued” me out of the funk that I was in. Anyone who has a pet knows how healing they can be for the soul, and Simba has most definitely been that for me over the past few weeks!

The word “Rescued” holds a lot of meaning for me, in more ways than one; it’s also a meaningful reminder of how Christ rescued me, and that’s a wonderful thing to be reminded of, especially as we celebrate Easter this weekend!

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TABBY CHIC CAT BED

Level: Easyish

Size: 17″ wide x 5″ tall

Materials:
- S hook (19.00mm) – and YES, I really did use an S hook, and that really is an S hook in the photos. I have a very tight tension. If you don’t, you should use a smaller hook.
- Yarn needle
- Approximately 140 yards of Loops & Threads Chunky (<6 skeins). Sample shown in “Oatmeal” (currently sold out online, but my store had plenty). Loops & Threads Chunky is a #6 super bulky yarn, HOWEVER, if you are substituting, I would strongly recommend using a #7 Jumbo yarn. (The yarn I used really should be classified as a #7, as it’s significantly thicker than any #6 yarn I’ve ever used.)
- Stitch marker or bobby pin
Gauge:
Your first 4 rounds should measure 7″ across.

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle) – view my tutorial here
CH (chain)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. Instead of putting your HDC in the top loops, reach your hook past the back loop where you’ll find a 3rd loop on the side of the stitch. Insert your hook there to create your HDC. This forces both of the top loops to rest on the front of your project, creating a ribbing effect. In other patterns it is also referred to as a Camel Stitch or RibHDC.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) This pattern is worked mostly in a seamless round. At Round 10, you will chain and turn, and then continue on in a seamless round in the opposite direction. This is all noted in the pattern.
(3) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.

How To Make It Larger:
It’s relatively simple, so hopefully my explanation won’t sound toocomplicated. What you’ll want to do is continue increasing your base until it’s about 1-2 inches smaller than the size you want the bed to be. On the very last repeat of the last round you did, use SC instead of HDC for all but the last two stitches; use slip stitches for the final two stitches. (This is the equivalent of Round 9 in the pattern.) So for instance, if you did 10 increase rounds, your 10th round would be:

(2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 8 STS) 7 times. 2 SC in next, 1 SC in each of the next 6 STS, 1 SL ST in each of the next 2 STS. (80)

Then, CH1 and turn, and do a final increase round in HDC (this is the equivalent of Round 10 in the pattern). Continue on with Round 11 and follow the pattern as written (your stitch counts will be different).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using S Hook, make a magic circle.

Round 1: CH1. 8 HDC in MC. (8)

Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around. (16)

Round 3: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around. (24)

Round 4: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (32)

Round 5: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (40)

Round 6: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (48)

Round 7: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (56)

Round 8: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 6 STS) around. (64)

Round 9: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 7 STS) 7 times. 2 SC in next, 1 SC in each of the next 5 STS, 1 SL ST in each of the next 2 STS. (72)

Note: The end of round 9 should smooth down your round to blend in, instead of ending with the jagged edge that working a seamless round causes. This will enable us to chain up in the next round, turn our work, and begin working seamlessly in the other direction.

Round 10: CH1, turn your work. (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 8 STS) around. Do not join. (80)

Rounds 11-14: In 3rd loops, HDC in each ST around. (80)

Round 15: In 3rd loops, SC in each of the next 75 STS. SL ST in 3rd loops of each of the next 5 STS. (80)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.
March 26, 2016
Marion Slouch
Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for supplying the yarn for this sample!

If you’ve spent any time around my blog, you know how much I loooooove slouch hats. I just can’t get enough of them. I never considered myself a hat person until I created and tried on my first slouchy hat, but from that moment on, I was hooked.

Today, I’m adding another slouchy pattern to my growing collection!

This one is sort of a “sister hat” to the South Haven Slouch. It uses the same basic structure, but I’ve added some cute new detailing between the ribbing sections to create a very different finished look.

For the sample, I used Lion Brand’s LB Collection 100% Superwash Merino Wool in “Cherry”. I love this yarn. It’s only available on Lion Brand’s web site or in their stores, but it’s so worth ordering. It’s the same yarn I used for this gorgeous cowl.

I tried to photograph the hat from a few different angles to really give you a sense of the finished look. Here’s what it looks like from the (angled) front:

And here’s the back. Like the South Haven Slouch, this one has a rippled top that gives it a faux-cinched look.

So grab your hooks and yarn, and let’s get started!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

THE MARION SLOUCH HAT

Level: Easyish (technically closer to intermediate, but if you’re a confident crocheter and comfortable with reading patterns, you canpull this off!)

Size:
One Size Fits Most (Teen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 10” across at band, and is 9” tall. I like just a little bit of slouch in my slouch hats, but if you like more, you can add rounds to the body of the hat.

Materials:
- H hook (5.00mm) and G hook (4.25mm)
- Yarn needle
- 240-250 yards of Lion Brand LB Collection 100% Superwash Merino Wool. The color in the photos is Cherry.
- Stitch marker or bobby pin (optional, but super helpful)
Gauge:
With H hook, 7 rows of 9HDC = 2″ square

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle) – view my tutorial here
CH (chain)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SK (skip)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
SC2TOG (single crochet 2 together)
RibHDC (also known as Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC; see Special Terminology, below)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. Instead of putting your HDC in the top loops, reach your hook past the back loop where you’ll find a 3rd loop on the side of the stitch. Insert your hook there to create your HDC. This forces both of the top loops to rest on the front of your project, creating a ribbing effect. In other patterns it is also referred to as a Camel Stitch or RibHDC.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in joined rounds. You will turn at the beginning of some rounds, and not others. Pay attention!
(3) Even though this pattern is worked in joined rounds, it is recommended that you keep a stitch marker or two handy. I found that placing a stitch marker in the first and last stitches of my rounds really helped me to not get confused about my starting and ending stitches. When working back and forth between regular loops and 3rd loops (beginning on Round 7), it can be hard to tell which stitch is technically your last stitch of the round… and, when we start turning our rounds during the SC+HDC texture in Round 11, it’s just easier to keep track of where to place your stitches.
(4) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(5) It goes without saying, but count your stitches! Once you’re done increasing, you should consistently have 100 stitches per round (until you get to the band).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using H Hook, make a magic circle.

Round 1: CH1. 10 HDC in MC. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (10)

Round 2: CH1. 2 HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (20)

Round 3: CH1. 2 HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (40)

Note: At this point you should have a floppy-looking circle. This is a good thing. It will continue to get floppier as we increase, and then it will smooth itself out on the body of the hat. That’s how we create the cinched look on the top.

Round 4: CH1. (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (60)

Round 5: CH1. (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (80)

Round 6: CH1. (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 7: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 8: CH1. HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 9: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 10: CH1. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Note: Joining and turning while working in the round is something you don’t see very often in patterns, and that little slip stitch at the end of the round can really throw you off because when you turn, it looks like a stitch… but it’s not, and needs to be ignored. This is where using a stitch marker will really come in handy. Just before you SL ST to the first SC in Round 10, mark your final stitch of the round with a stitch marker (1st photo). Then do your join (2nd photo). When you move on to Round 11, CH1 and turn as per the instructions (3rd photo). When instructed to SK the first ST, you’ll know to skip right over the stitch marker and do your first SC+HDC in the stitch immediately following it (4th photo).

Rounds 11-13: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 14: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 15: CH1, do not turn. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 16: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 17: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 18: CH1. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Rounds 19-21: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 22: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 23: CH1, do not turn. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 24: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 25: CH1. In 3rd loops, HDC around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 26: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a SL ST. (100)

Round 27: CH1. (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 8 STS) around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (90)

Round 28: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join to the top of the first SC with a SL ST. (90)

Switch to G hook.

Rounds 29-38: SC around.

Note: At some point around Round 33, you may want to check the band of the hat to see if it’s measuring about 10 inches. If it’s measuring much bigger than that, you may want to grab a smaller hook to finish things off.

Smooth out the round by slip stitching into the first 3 STS of the next round. Fasten off and weave in ends.
February 25, 2016
Comfy Squares Color Block Cowl

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for supplying the yarn for this sample!

I know, I know. This one looks familiar. I already used this stitch on a cowl, so what am I doing releasing the same pattern again?

But it’s not the same pattern!

I’ve said it many times — when I find a stitch I love, I get really fixated on it. This has been one of those stitches. So far I’ve made that other cowl, boot cuffs, and a gorgeous rustic-modern blanket.

So for this cowl, I decided that I really wanted it in a color-blocked style. I had my eye on some yarn from Lion Brand’s LB Collection, called 100% Superwash Merino, that I wanted to use. The problem with that other cowl is that I worked it in vertical rows instead of horizontal, so I couldn’t have achieved the color-blocked look with that pattern. So, I decided to write up a similar-but-different pattern, working it in horizontal rows this time. I love how it turned out!

About the Yarn

I don’t wear a lot of bright colors; I’m most comfortable in blacks and grays. (I’m not a sad person, I promise. I just find gray very cozy.) But I have been trying to inject a little color into my wardrobe lately, and my favorite color to pair with classic gray is deep purple. 100% Superwash Merino Yarn from the LB Collection is a really pretty lightweight (#3) yarn that has a nice array of colors to choose from. I chose Wisteria, Charcoal, and Purple for my cowl. The yarn itself was a pleasure to work with. There was virtually no splitting (yay!) and it showed of the stitches really nicely. LB Collection Yarn is only available online at lionbrand.com, their studio in NYC, their outlet in New Jersey, or in the Lion Design catalog. (In other words, you won’t find it at the big craft stores or in your local yarn shop.)

If you’re thinking about using 100% Superwash Merino from Lion Brand in your own cowl, here are a few color schemes I put together that you might like:

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COMFY SQUARES COLOR BLOCK COWL

Level: Easy

Size: Cowl measures 28″ wide by 14.5″ tall before seaming.*
*It should probably be noted here that while most of my patterns are modeled on real people, this one is staged on a standard sized jewelry bust that you find at craft stores, which is only about 10″ wide at the shoulders. Keep this in mind when you decide whether or not to adjust the pattern, because if you want it to look as full on you as it does in the photo, you’ll want to increase your starting chain (just keep it an odd number). The good news is, if you use the recommended yarn, you’ll have plenty of yarn in your skeins to do it.

Hook: H (5.00mm)

Yarn: LB Collection 100% Superwash Merino (#3 light yarn) in 3 colors. You will need 170 yards each of the bottom two colors, and 205 yards of the top color (it uses more because of the ribbing at the top).

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Gauge: A row of 18SC = about 4″ in length.

Abbreviations Used:
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
FPDC (front post double crochet)
BPDC (back post double crochet)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(3) To adjust the width of your cowl, add or subtract from your starting CH (just begin with an odd number of CHs). To adjust the length of your blanket, add or subtract an even number of rows to/from each color block.
(4) Cowl is worked from the bottom up, so keep this in mind when choosing the order of colors you work with.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
With first color, CH125.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC across. (124)

Rows 2-21: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (124)

Row 22: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (124)

Helpful tip: The SCs in Rows 22 & 23 help us to create a nice straight line where color blocks come together. If we didn’t add it, the color changes would have a more jagged edge.

Switch to a new color; fasten off previous color, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Row 23: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (124)

Rows 24-43: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (124)

Row 44: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (124)

Switch to a new color; fasten off previous color, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Row 45: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (124)

Rows 46-59: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (124)

Row 60: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (124)

Row 61: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (124)

Rows 62-67: CH1, turn. FPDC in first ST, BPDC in next ST. (FPDC in next ST, BPDC in next ST) across.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Leaving your 3 long tails alone (there should be one of each color), weave in all other tails to get them out of the way.

Seaming
Lay your cowl flat, then bring the sides together and match up the color blocks. Use a yarn needle to sew each color block closed with its matching yarn tail. Weave in all ends.

January 25, 2016
Comfy Squares Textured Boot Cuffs

One thing I’ve learned about my fans is that you love patterns that come in sets. I released the Comfy Squares Textured Cowl last month and several of you asked for the boot cuff pattern that I’d mentioned in the blog post that I was planning to make. I finally got around to writing it down!

Click here for the original cowl pattern, or scroll down for the boot cuff pattern.

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COMFY SQUARES TEXTURED BOOT CUFFS

Size:  Small (12″ around and 5″ tall); instructions for adjusting for different sizes are included.
Gauge:  With G hook, 10SC = 2” in length
Hook: G (4.25mm)
Yarn: 150-160 yards of #3 light weight yarn (such as Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn Sport)
You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Abbreviations Used:
CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) It is crocheted as a flat piece, then seamed at the end.
(3) CH1 at the beginning of rounds does not count as a stitch.
(4) The phrase “(SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 7 times” means 7 times total.
(5) Only crochet in BLO (back loops only) when specifically instructed.

Instructions for different sizes:
Making these larger (or smaller) is simple — instead of repeating rows 2-3 until piece measures 12″ in length as instructed, simply repeat until the cuffs are the length you need. You can also add to the height of the cuffs by increasing your starting chain (keep it an odd number), and including those added stitches in the (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) section.

PATTERN (MAKE 2)

To begin:
CH25.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 7 times. SC in each of the last 4 STS. (24)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 7 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in last ST. (24)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 7 times. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in last ST. (24)

Rows 4-53 (or until piece measures 12″ in length): Repeat rows 2-3. (24)

Fasten off, leaving a 12″ tail. Use your yarn needle and finishing tail to seam both ends of the cuff together. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

January 8, 2016
Comfy Squares Textured Blanket

When I find a stitch I love, I get really fixated on it. I make a bunch of different patterns with it until I finally get bored and move on to another stitch.

My fixation right now?

The SC+HDC combo!

The first pattern I made with this stitch was the Comfy Squares Textured Cowl. It was a bit of an accident how it all came together, and interestingly enough, that cowl has become my go-to cowl this winter. I love the way it drapes, and I just love the look of the stitches.

Our family draws names for Christmas, and this year, I drew my Grandma. I was so excited! I knew right away that I wanted to make her something special. So I decided this would be the perfect opportunity to try out this stitch in blanket form.

I am thrilled with how it turned out!

Let’s talk colors. I need to give a shoutout to my friend Krista at Rescued Paw Designs — I’ve admired her great sense of color schemes since I first discovered her blog. The colors I chose for my blanket were inspired by some of her blanket patterns.

I used a collection of Vanna’s Choice (which has some of the most gorgeous neutral colors available in the big craft stores): Purple, Linen, Taupe, and Gray Marble. The great thing about Vanna’s Choice is that their entire line coordinates. So you can pretty much go in and choose any colors you want, and you’re almost guaranteed to come out with a beautiful color scheme.

My advice? Choose three neutrals and one accent color. Make sure at least one of your choices is a heather yarn (meaning it has little flecks of other colors in it) to give your blanket a rustic modern look. (Love me some rustic modern!)

I took the advice of my Little Monkeys followers and softened the finished blanket up by running it through the dryer with a dryer sheet. I was surprised at how soft it came out, and it didn’t mess with the blanket at all. (I’m paranoid about stuff like that.)

Here it is, all ready for Christmas! (Find my free printable “handmade with special care” gift tags here.)

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COMFY SQUARES TEXTURED BLANKET

Level: Easy

Size: Blanket measures 30″x40″ (stroller blanket or small lap blanket size). Pattern is easily adjustable for both length and width.

Hook: K (6.50mm)

Yarn: About 180 yards of #4 worsted/aran weight yarn per color block. I used Vanna’s Choice (by Lion Brand) in color blocks of Purple (x2), Linen, Taupe and Gray Marble. Please see Notes section for a helpful note about yarn amounts.

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Gauge:
Not crucial, but a row of 10SC = about 3″ in length.

Abbreviations Used:
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(3) A note about yarn amounts: I used yarn in my stash to complete most of this project, so I wasn’t concerned about trying to use full skeins… which resulted in a pattern that, if done as written, uses about 30 yards of a second skein per color block. If that drives you absolutely nuts, you might want to make your blanket smaller or larger to avoid having a lot of leftover yarn. 🙂
(4) To adjust the width of your blanket, add or subtract from your starting CH (just begin with an odd number of CHs). To adjust the length of your blanket, add or subtract an even number of rows to/from each color block.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
With first color, CH101.

Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from hook. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 CH remains. SC in remaining CH. (100)

Rows 2-22: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (100)

Row 23: CH1, turn. SC in first ST and in each ST across. (100)

Helpful tip: The SCs in Rows 23 & 24 help us to create a nice straight line where color blocks come together. If we didn’t add it, the color changes would have a more jagged edge.

Switch to a new color; fasten off previous color.

Row 24: CH1, turn. SC in first ST and in each ST across. (100)

Rows 25-46: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (100)

Row 47: CH1, turn. SC in first ST and in each ST across. (100)

For each remaining color block: Switch to a new color and fasten off the previous color, then repeat Rows 24-47.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

January 4, 2016
Macchiato Cowl

© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

I have received so many requests for a scarf or cowl pattern to match the Macchiato Slouch Hat. I didn’t bother with it because the reality of that hat is that it’s actually incredibly simple (just rounds of HDCs), and it was the Scarfie yarn that made it so unique-looking. So a matching cowl would be, simply, rounds of HDC.

I’ve realized though, after being asked for a matching pattern so many times, that not everyone can make something without a pattern to follow.

And that’s ok!

I think improvising simply comes naturally to some people and not to others. So, I went ahead and whipped up the easiest-ever cowl to match. I wrote out the pattern, which is at the bottom of this post!

About the Yarn

Each skein of Scarfie has very gradual color changes between two colors. I immediately gravitated to the Cream/Taupe, because, well, I’m a sucker for a good taupe color. Each skein has 312 yards of bulky weight yarn, so you’ve got plenty to make a beautiful, ombre-style accessory.

Click the photo to view Lion Brand Scarfie yarn on Craftsy!

The Matching Slouch Hat

Click here to view the Macchiato Slouch Hat pattern.

–

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This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

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THE MACCHIATO COWL

Level: Easy

Size:
Cowl measures 30″ around and is 12″ tall.

Hook: N (9.00mm)
Yarn: About 250 yards of #5 chunky weight yarn; I used Lion Brand Scarfie Yarn in Cream/Taupe.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Gauge:
A row of 5HDC = about 2” long

Abbreviations Used:
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
CH (chain)
HDC (double crochet)
FHDC (foundation half double crochet — optional, but recommended. View tutorial here.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in a seamless round. Only join or chain when instructed to do so. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the first ST of each round.
(3) Finding knots in your yarn is just an annoying and unavoidable reality of crocheting, and with a gradual-change yarn like this one, it’s especially aggravating when the knot joins yarn from two completely different parts of the color change pattern. This happened to me while making this cowl, and all I did to fix the situation was cut the yarn just before the knot, then pull the yarn from the skein until I got back to the point in the pattern where I had left off, and joined the new yarn there.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Round 1:
FHDC 72. Join ends together with a SL ST into the first FHDC, being careful not to twist the round. (72)

Optional start:
CH73. HDC in 2^nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first HDC, being careful not to twist the round. (72)

Round 2: DO NOT CHAIN. HDC in first ST and in each ST around. DO NOT JOIN.

Rounds 3-26 (or until cowl measures about 12” tall): HDC in each ST around.

SL ST into the next 3 STS to smooth down the round. Fasten off; weave in all ends. If you used the Foundation HDC method, use your starting tail to sew together the gap between your first and last FHDC, then weave in to finish.

December 27, 2015