Category: All Free Patterns

Yenni Slouch Hat
© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!

I recently discovered Cascade Yarn’s Longwood Sport when I used it to make the South Haven Slouch pattern last month. I really fell in love with it, and wanted to work with it again. As a newbie crocheter, I always avoided patterns with anything thinner than worsted weight yarn because I thought it would take forever to work up. But eventually, I branched out and discovered that I actually love the look of items crocheted with thinner yarn. I encourage you to try it if you haven’t already!

This slouchy hat, called the Yenni Slouch (that’s pronounced like the English “Jenny”, by the way) is named after my beautiful niece who is modeling it in the photo. It also has a pair of matching boot cuffs — which, conveniently, are basically just little versions of the hat!

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YENNI SLOUCH

Level: Easy

Size:
One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 10” across at band, and is 9” tall.

Materials:
- H hook (5.00mm) and G hook (4.25mm)
- Yarn needle
- Cascade Yarns Longwood Sport*, 250-270 yards. The color in the photos is Doeskin Heather.
  *About Longwood Sport:
  Weight: #3 light
  Fiber: 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool
  Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 273 yds (250 m)
  Gauge: 22-24 sts = 4″ (10 cm), US 5-6 (3.75-4.0mm)
- Button embellishment (mine is 1-1/8″)
Gauge: With H hook, 4HDC = 1″

Stitches Used:
CH (chain)
SS (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
DC (double crochet)
SC+DC (this just means to put a single crochet and a double crochet in the same stitch)

Special Terminology:
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using H Hook, and leaving a 12″ tail, CH29.

Row 1: SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (28)

Row 2: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (28)

Row 3: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (28)

Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 26 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (28)

Row 5: CH1, turn. Working in 3rd loops, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (28)

Rows 6-72: Repeat Rows 2-5 in order until you have 72 total rows (you will end with a repeat of Row 4).

Switch to G hook.

Row 73: CH1, DO NOT turn. Begin to SC down the LONG edge of the project, putting 5SC in each section between ribbing rows (see photo below for a visual). You should end up with 90SC. Then, CH 11 to create the base of your button flap.

Row 74: Turn your work. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Continue to SC across. (100)

Rows 75-84: CH1, turn. SC across. (100)

Row 85 (edging): CH1, turn. SC across (100). Putting (SC, CH1, SC) in both corners, continue to SC around the edge of the button flap. Stop when you get here:

Sewing the hat together
Fasten off your yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a yarn needle, sew the ends of the hat together. Utilize the 3rd loop of the edge with the HDCs in order to blend the seam in so it is hardly noticeable:

Once you get to the top of the hat, make a knot and weave in the end.

Cinching the top
Turn your hat inside out. Use your starting tail to cinch the top of the hat by threading it through a yarn needle and weaving the needle in and out along the top edge of the hat at even intervals. Once you’ve gone all the way around, pull the tail tight and insert your yarn needle across the cinched area a few times to really keep it closed, then make a knot and weave in the end. Turn your hat right-side out again.

Finishing the Button Flap
We still need to sew our button flap in place and attach our button. Using a needle and appropriately-colored thread, position the button flap in place and sew along its 3 edges to secure it. Use your needle and thread to attach your button as well.
October 13, 2015
Macchiato Slouch Hat
© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

Thank you to Lion Brand for providing the yarn for this pattern sample!

I’ve always had a picture in my head of a slouch hat that I wanted to create, that had a very slooooooooow, graaaaaadual color change. I looked into the possibility of dip-dying the finished hat, but it looked like more effort than it was worth. (Plus, I’m lazy.) Then, just recently, I found out about Lion Brand’s new yarn – Scarfie! As soon as I saw it, I knew it was The One. The perfect yarn for the hat I wanted to create.

Click the photo to view Lion Brand Scarfie yarn on Craftsy!

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About the Yarn

Each skein of Scarfie has very gradual color changes between two colors. I immediately gravitated to the Cream/Taupe, because, well, I’m a sucker for a good taupe color. Each skein has 312 yards of bulky weight yarn, so you’ve got plenty to make a beautiful, somewhat-ombre-style scarf.

But we’re not making a scarf today.

Nope, today we’re going to use that beautiful Scarfie yarn to make a hat! Sometimes, you just gotta do the unexpected. 🙂

This pattern is a very simple slouch pattern. But paired with the gorgeous gradual color changes of Scarfie, it becomes completely unique! It just goes to show you how yarn choice can make all the difference.

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About the Name

I named this pattern the “Macchiato Slouch” because the combination of the yarn color and the gradual fade made me think back to my days as a barista. One of my favorite drinks was an iced caramel macchiato — vanilla syrup, milk, and a couple shots of espresso and caramel drizzle to mark the top (macchiato means marked in Italian). So instead of the espresso instantly mixing with milk, as it would in a latte, the espresso sits on top of it until it sloooooowly blends in from the top-down. Now, the next time you to go your local coffee shop, you can wow them with your knowledge… and with your new hat!

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MACCHIATO SLOUCH HAT

Level: Easy

Size:
One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 9.5” across at band, and is 9” tall.

Materials:
- N hook (9.00mm) and I hook (5.50mm)
- Yarn needle
- Lion Brand Scarfie Yarn (I used Cream/Taupe), about 140 yards, which is less than half a skein – so you can make two! (Scarfie is a bulky weight yarn.)
- Stitch marker (a bobby pin works great)
- Button (1-1.5″) and tools to attach it
Gauge:
With N hook, 7HDC = 3″

Stitches Used:
MC (magic circle) – view my tutorial here
CH (chain)
SS (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)

Notes:

(1) This hat is worked in a continuous spiral until the band. Do not join, chain or turn until instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
(2) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(3) The button and button flap on this hat are just decorative (they don’t actually function). There is no buttonhole, and at the end, we’ll just sew everything neatly in place.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using N Hook, make a magic circle.

Round 1: 10 HDC in MC (10)

Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around (20)

Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around (40)

Note: At this point, it’s going to start looking wavy. You’re doing it right! The back of the hat has a faux-cinched look to it, and this is how we achieve it. Once you get to the body of the hat, it will start to straighten itself out naturally.

Round 4: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around (60)

Rounds 5-15: HDC around (60)

Switch to I hook.

Round 16: SC around (60). CH7.

From this point on, we will be working in turned rounds. We still won’t be joining.

Round 17: Turn your work. Working down the back side of the CH7, SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH, then continue to SC around the hat (you’re now crocheting in the opposite direction as the previous round) until you reach the beginning again. (66)

Rounds 18-22: CH1, turn. SC around. (66)

Edging: CH1. SC around the entire band of the hat, including the button flap, putting (SC,CH1,SC) in each corner.

Fasten off, leaving a 12″ tail. Use the tail to gently sew the button flap in place, then weave in all ends securely. Attach decorative button in place with yarn or a needle and thread.
October 6, 2015
Ribbed Cinched Ear Warmer
© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design

Thank you to Lion Brand for providing the yarn for this pattern sample.

As far as social media is concerned, my Cinched Ear Warmer has been one of my top all-time most popular patterns. It’s one of my earlier ones, and when I made it, I knew there were so many options for changing it up. I just never got around to it until now! This new version begins with the same cinched style, but a ribbing stitch gives it a unique look.

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The Yarn

I use Heartland in a lot of my patterns because I love everything about it – the weight (it’s worsted, but feels light), the colors (I’m a sucker for natural hues) and the sheen (not too shiny, not too dull). After the first sample, I decided that this pattern might look awesome in two colors. I didn’t want it to look striped so much as two-toned, so I chose two colors that were pretty close in shade – “Katmai” and “Grand Canyon”. Click here to view the full range of colors available.

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RIBBED CINCHED EARWARMER

Level: Easy

Size:
One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Earwarmer measures 18” around, and is 3” wide.

Materials:
- H hook (5.00mm)
- About 60 yards of Lion Brand Heartland* (Samples are shown in Glacier Bay and Katmai/Grand Canyon)
  *About Heartland:
  Weight: #4 worsted
  Fiber: 100% Acrylic
  Yardage: 5oz/142g (251yd/230m)
  Gauge: 12 sc + 15 rows = 4 inches on size J-10 [6 mm] hook
- Yarn needle
Gauge:
With H hook, 4 HDC = 1″

Stitches Used:
CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
FHDC (foundation half double crochet – click here for a tutorial)
RibHDC (also known as Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC; see Special Stitch, below)

Special Stitch:
RibHDC – instead of putting your HDC in the top loops, find the 3rd loop. Because we’re working in turned rows, the third loop will be located just underneath the front loop. Insert your hook there and create your HDC. This forces both of the top loops to rest on the front of your project, creating a ribbing effect. It is also referred to as a Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC. (Confused? You can view a photo tutorial here.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) Starting chains do not count as stitches.
(3) This pattern is easily adjusted to any head size. 68 STS was perfect for me, but you might want to wrap the first round around your head as you go to get the perfect fit for you.
(4) For the tan-colored sample in the photos, I actually used two different colors of Heartland (Katmai and Grand Canyon). I switched colors every other row, and carried my yarn instead of fastening it off each time.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

With H hook,

Round 1: FHDC 68. Join to the first FHDC with a slip stitch, being careful not to twist the row.
(Or, if you don’t like the Foundation Chain method, just CH 69, HDC in second CH from hook and HDC across.)

Round 2: CH1, turn. RibHDC around. Join with a SL ST to first RibHDC. (68)

Rounds 3-12: Repeat Round 2.

Cut your yarn, leaving about a 12″ tail, and finish off but don’t weave in the tail. Use your yarn needle to sew up the first round of FDCs, then weave in that tail and cut.

To Cinch:
Please note that the photos below are taken from my original Cinched EarWarmer pattern, so the pattern looks slightly different, but it’s the same concept.)

1. Thread the long tail through your yarn needle. Gather the seamed section of the headband, and fold in half so that the fold is facing you.

2. Bring either side up to the top of the fold and hold secure with your fingers.

3. Run your yarn needle through all three sections of gathered material. The closer you get to the surface, the better your cinch will look; so I run mine right under the top loops of the outer sections, and under just a few strands of the center fold.

4. Wrap the yarn around the underside of the cinch, then through the sections again. Do this a few times to secure the cinch, then tie off underneath and weave in the tail.
September 30, 2015
Apple Crisp Cowl
Fall is HERE! It’s time for sweaters, hayrides, pumpkins and apple-pie-scented-candles. This has always been my favorite time of the year, and I do my best to indulge in as many fall-related activities as I possibly can. Because as we all know (well, at least those of us who live in the Midwest, USA), this season goes waaaaaaaaaaay too fast.

My little monkeys and I have a tradition that actually goes back to before they were born. On the first day of fall, I always celebrate by making apple crisp. Now that they’re old enough, my boys have joined in on this little ritual.

Click here to view my Homemade Apple Crisp recipe!

This year is the first year that my oldest monkey is in school all day, and also the first year that my youngest monkey is in preschool for the mornings. So while I wait for them to get home for our apple-crisp-making party, I’m celebrating the first day of fall in another way, too… with a new pattern release!

The Apple Crisp Cowl is actually a mixture of two other patterns: the Sparkly Buttoned Cowl, and the Maribel Cowl. I love my Sparkly Buttoned Cowl, but it’s pretty fancy-looking, especially with the metallic yarn I used. I love the way it’s shaped though, so I wanted to come up with a more casual version of the same cowl style. I also love the ribbing on the Maribel Cowl, so I started there. And the Apple Crisp Cowl was born.

Prefer a PDF?

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APPLE CRISP COWL

Level: Easy

Size:
Approximately 30″ long by 11″ tall

Materials:
- I hook (5.50mm) and K hook (6.50mm)
- Yarn needle
- Approximately 350-360 yards of your favorite worsted weight yarn – such as Vanna’s Choice
- Two buttons, approximately 1″
Gauge:
With I hook, 4HDC = 1″

Stitches Used:
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
FHDC (Foundation Half Double Crochet; view tutorial here)
RibHDC (also known as Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC; view tutorial here)
SK (Skip)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) This pattern calls for two different sizes of crochet hooks. A larger hook is used on the top edge to keep it from pulling, because of the way that the cowl is constructed. Hook change is noted in the pattern.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

Using I hook:

Row 1: FHDC 38. (View a tutorial here… or if Foundation Stitches are not your cup o’ cider, you can also CH39, then HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH.)

Row 2: CH1, turn. RibHDC across. (38)

Rows 3-83 (or until it measures about 30″ in length): Repeat Row 2. (38)

Switch to K hook.

Row 84: CH1, DO NOT TURN. SC in same ST (the last ST from Row 83). SC evenly down the long edge of your project. (83)

Rows 85-87: CH1, turn. SC across. (83)

Row 88 (buttonhole): CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 2 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS, SC in next. SC the rest of the way across. (83, counting CH2)

Row 89: CH1, turn. SC across, putting 2SC in the CH2 buttonhole space from the previous row.

Rows 90-91: CH1, turn. SC across.

Edging: CH1, do not turn. SC around the entire piece, putting (SC, CH1, SC) in each corner.

Buttons: Lay your scarf flat, with the buttonhole at the top left corner. Your first button should be sewn 1 inch (both sides) from the bottom right corner; your second button should be sewn 6 inches from the right edge, 1 inch from the bottom edge (in line with the first button).

TO WEAR:

It can feel a bit tricky at first! Start by putting it around your neck with the buttonhole on your left, and the SC rows at the top. The button that is NOT in the corner is the button that will go through the buttonhole. Once you’ve joined those together, you can slip the corner button through whichever part of the scarf you want to achieve your desired look. If you need a little extra help, watch this video of the Sparkly Buttoned Cowl (it’s the same type of cowl):
September 22, 2015
South Haven Slouch
A few weeks ago, our family had the opportunity to go to one of my favorite little spots in Michigan for a week. South Haven, on Lake Michigan, is an adorable town full of good food, cute shops, and AMAZING views. I used to come here as a teen with my youth group, so I have a lot of memories of swimming at the beach and walking down to the lighthouse. Now, during our first real vacation as a family (and really, our first real vacation as a couple since our honeymoon 8 years ago), we were able to make tons of new memories. It was a great week!

This was my view…

…for pretty much the entire week.

When we weren’t hanging out at the beach, we were wandering around downtown (usually hunting for a new ice cream parlor or coffee shop to try). But I was super excited when I saw this yarn store, “Needle in a Haystack.” (Edit: This cute little store has closed its doors.) The owner was sweet and friendly, and we had a great conversation about selling online while I perused the shelves of gorgeous yarns.

After staring at yarn for an eternity, I finally settled on this skein of Longwood Sport 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool.

I don’t know about you, but I tend to buy all of my yarn from the big craft stores in my town. It’s great to have them nearby, but it really limits you as far as yarn goes. That’s why I think it’s important as a crocheter, and especially as a designer, to visit out-of-town yarn shops when you get the chance. I’ve never worked with anything from Cascade Yarns before, but I think I might be in love now.

This particular yarn came in a range of stunning, natural colors (hence the eternity it took me to pick one). It’s SO soft, but it really holds its shape well. I took it down to the beach with me and stared at it for a little while, squished it in my hands (I love squishy yarn), and pretty soon I knew what it was going to become.

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All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

SOUTH HAVEN SLOUCH

Level: Easy

Size:
One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 10” across at band, and is 9” tall. I like just a little bit of slouch in my slouch hats, but if you like more, you can add rounds to the body of the hat, or make the band of the hat wider, too.

Materials:
- H hook (5.00mm) and G hook (4.25mm)
- Yarn needle
- 260-270 yards of Cascade Yarns Longwood Sport (that’s a little less than one skein). The color in the photos is Midnight Blue.
  *About Longwood Sport:
  Weight: #3 light
  Fiber: 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool
  Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 273 yds (250 m)
  Gauge: 22-24 sts = 4″ (10 cm), US 5-6 (3.75-4.0mm)
- Stitch marker (a bobby pin works great)
Gauge:
With H hook, 7 rows of 9HDC = 2″ square

Stitches Used:
MC (magic circle) – view my tutorial here
CH (chain)
SS (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC2TOG (Single Crochet 2 Together)
RibHDC (also known as Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC; see Special Stitch, below)

Special Stitch:
RibHDC – instead of putting your HDC in the top loops, reach your hook past the back loop where you’ll find a 3rd loop on the side of the stitch. Insert your hook there to create your HDC. This forces both of the top loops to rest on the front of your project, creating a ribbing effect. It is also referred to as a Camel Stitch or 3rd Loop HDC.

Notes:
(1) This hat is worked in a continuous spiral. Do not join at the end of each round and do not chain at the beginning of rounds unless instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the last stitch of each round.
(2) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using H Hook, make a magic circle.

Round 1: 10 HDC in MC (10)

Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around (20)

Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around (40)

Note: At this point you should have a floppy-looking circle. This is a good thing. It will continue to get floppier as we increase, and then it will smooth itself out on the body of the hat. That’s how we create the cinched look on the top.

Round 4: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around (60)

Round 5: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 STS) around (80)

Round 6: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 3 STS) around (100)

Round 7: RibHDC around. (100)

Round 8: HDC around. (100)

Round 9: RibHDC around. (100)

Rounds 10-13: HDC around. (100)

Round 14: RibHDC around. (100)

Round 15: HDC around. (100)

Round 16: RibHDC around. (100)

Rounds 17-20: HDC around. (100)

Round 21: RibHDC around. (100)

Round 22: HDC around. (100)

Round 23: RibHDC around. (100)

Round 24: HDC around. (100)

Note: If you want a little more slouch in your hat, this would be a good place to add some extra rounds of HDC.

Round 25: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 8 STS) around. (90)

Round 26: SC around. (90)

Switch to G hook.

Rounds 27-35: SC around. (90)

Smooth out the round by slip stitching into the first 3 STS of the next round. Fasten off and weave in ends.
September 7, 2015
Mobile Device Cover

After the success of the Wildflower Shoulder Bag pattern, I wanted to design a quick pattern to match it that would work as a tablet or iPad cover. I designed this for a standard iPad, but it’s easy to adapt it to the size of your particular device, without doing too much reworking. You could even modify it to be used as a cover for your cell phone!

As with the Wildflower Shoulder Bag, I used Lion Brand’s Cotton-Ease yarn for this project. (I want to thank Lion Brand for providing the yarn for my sample.) I have really come to love this yarn! It doesn’t fuzz, it’s soft yet durable, and it really shows off stitch work.

(Edit: This yarn has since been discontinued.)

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

MOBILE DEVICE COVER

Hook: H (5.00mm)
Yarn: About 140 yards of Lion Brand Cotton-Ease (I used “stone”)
Difficulty: Easy
Finished Size: 7″ wide x 9.5″ tall
Gauge: 9 rows of 7 SC = 2″ square
You’ll also need: 1 button, plus tools to attach it, and a stitch marker

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) The pattern is sized for a standard iPad. Hints for adjusting the size are included in the pattern, in blue.
(3) This pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round. Do not join or turn unless instructed to do so. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning of your rounds.

PATTERN:

To begin:
Ch 25. (This is the length of the smallest side of your device, plus half an inch. Any odd number of chains will work.)

Round 1: 3SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in each of the next 22 CHs. 3SC in last CH, working around the tail to the other side. Coming over to the other side, SC in each of the next 22 CHs. (50)

Rounds 2-3: SC in each ST around. (50)

Round 4: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around. (50)

Rounds 5-22 (or until your height is about 2-2.5″ shorter than the height of your device): Repeat Round 4.

Rounds 23-30 (or until your height is about half an inch shorter than the height of your device): SC in each ST around. (50)

Round 31: Now we’re going to form the button closure. Using a bobby pin or stitch marker, lay the project flat and mark the centermost stitch of the last round. SC in each ST until you reach your marked stitch; SL ST to the marked ST. CH 12 (or however many you’ll need to wrap it around the button you chose). SL ST to the same ST to close the loop. SC in each remaining ST around.

Round 32: SC in each ST around. (Ignore the CH12 loop; just fold it down out of your way.)

To Finish: SL ST into the first 3 STS of the next round to even out the edge.

Fasten off and weave in ends. Attach your button on the opposite side from the button loop.

August 19, 2015
Wildflower Shoulder Bag (Crochet-Along)

:::-

::: UPDATE :::

The CAL is officially DONE! But don’t worry, the pattern will remain on my blog for free. If you would like to purchase an inexpensive, ad-free, concise PDF version (American Standard Version only), you can find it on Ravelry or Etsy or get access to this an ALL of my other patterns with an All-Access Pass!

(Original post below)

– – – – – – – – – – – – – –

HEY! Guess what? I’m about to start the very first Little Monkeys Crochet CAL! For those of you who are newer to the crochet world, CAL is short for Crochet-Along. It basically means that a pattern is released in sections over a period of time, and we all follow along together to make it. This CAL will produce a pretty adorable bag I’m calling the Wildflower Shoulder Bag! Using the recommended yarn, its base will measure about 15″ across.

Interested? Great!

The Wildflower Shoulder Bag pattern will include clearly-written instructions, helpful photos, and a video tutorial that I’ve been working really hard on over the last few weeks. So whether you work best from a pattern or you’re a more visual learner, you’ll be able to follow along with this easy-level pattern. The schedule for the CAL is as follows:

June 25: Start Here! Intro Post and Materials List (this post)
July 2: Part 1, Flower Squares and GIVEAWAY INFO!
July 9: Part 2, Body of the Bag
July 16: Part 3, Base, Embellishments and Strap

Here’s what you can do now to get the most out of the CAL experience:

1. Join the CAL Facebook group (optional)
2. Join the Little Monkeys Crochet mailing list (via the aqua-colored form at the top of the blog) so you don’t miss anything (also optional)
3. Share this blog post in your favorite crochet groups on Facebook (again, optional)
4. Read through the FAQs at the bottom of this post
5. Start gathering your materials

—

Supply List

Here’s what you’ll need for this CAL:

Cotton-Ease Yarn (4 skeins) – This worsted weight yarn from Lion Brand is a blend of cotton and acrylic, and it’s very easy to work with. I made the bag in the photos with the color Stone, which is a lighter medium gray. (You can substitute with 800 yards of a different worsted weight yarn.)

5.0mm (H) Hook – Gauge is generally unimportant, as this pattern will work with any yarn and appropriately-sized hook. To achieve the size of the bag in the photo (shown on a petite model), which is 15″ wide x 12″ tall (strap not included), use this gauge:

4 rows of 6 HDC = 1.5″ square

Button (1″ or 1-1/8″)

Plastic Canvas – This can be found at craft stores for less than a dollar. It’s a sheet of plastic mesh that is sold in various sizes. I used a sheet of 13.5″x10.5″. You won’t need this until Week 3 of the CAL.

(2) 32mm Split Rings – Like what holds your keys on your keychain.

Needle & Thread – For sewing on your button(s).

Crochet Basics – Tapestry Needle, Scissors, and a Stitch Marker – I use a bobby pin as a stitch marker.

OPTIONAL:

6 Buttons – If you want to add buttons to the center of your flower squares. These buttons should match the button from the list above, which will be used as a closure.

Leather Purse Strap – If you want to give your shoulder bag a bit fancier of a look.

2 Rings With Clasps – If you would like your strap to be removable, you can crochet it to these. Then you can switch between the crocheted (casual) look and the leather (chic) look. I also happen to love the look of the extra hardware, so I chose to include these in my bag.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q. Do I have to join the Facebook group? Is the CAL free?
A. The CAL is 100% free and you are not required to join/sign up anywhere to participate. You only need access to my blog, which is free. The Facebook group is just a fun way to stay connected and help each other out. Joining my blog e-mail list will ensure that you receive an email when each new part of the CAL is published. These things are all optional.

Q. Can I use [insert name of a different yarn] instead?
A. This pattern will work fine with any yarn and appropriately-sized hook. You should consider whether the yarn you wish to use will hold up as a bag. Also, the dimensions of the bag using Cotton-Ease and an H hook will be approximately 15″ wide, so keep that in mind if you choose a thinner or thicker yarn. The width will change.

Q. What are the details of Cotton-Ease so that I can find something comparable in my home country?
A. Cotton-Ease, by Lion Brand, is a 50/50 cotton/acrylic blend. It’s a #4 worsted weight yarn and is machine washable and dryable. The skeins come in 3.5oz (100g), 207 yds (188m).

Q. Is the pattern on Ravelry?
A. Yes! View on Ravelry.

Q. What is the plastic canvas for, and can I use [insert a different material here] instead?
A. The plastic canvas will be used as a base liner (for stability) and will be hidden in between two crocheted pieces. So if you have another material in mind, you can use it instead. Just make sure it’s washable!

Q. Will the CAL include instructions for lining the bag?
A. Unfortunately, no… unless you consider “give your bag to your friend who knows how to sew and ask her to line it for you” to be complete instructions. 😉 This bag would benefit from a lining and zipper, though, so if you know how to do it, your bag will be all the better for it. Here is an awesome tutorial that is very similar to the style of this bag.

Q. Is the CAL going to be available in [insert your native language here]?
A. The pattern is currently available in American Standard Terms, UK Terms, Dutch, German, Norwegian, Danish, French and Spanish. Everything except the original (American Standard) exists because of kind-hearted translators who simply wanted to help. These versions have very limited support (because I don’t speak the languages), but you can access them all here.

Q. Will the patterns be printable?
A. You can purchase an ad-free PDF of the American Standard version in my Etsy shop!
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See you next week!

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June 24, 2015
Little Girl’s Wildflower Purse
I have a quick little stashbuster pattern for you today that will bring a big smile to your little girl’s face! Choose her favorite colors to whip up this precious purse. My Neverending Wildflower pattern serves as the foldover panel, and the rest is just single crochet and some seaming. As my 4 year old son would say, “easy peasy, lemon squeezy!”

LITTLE GIRL’S WILDFLOWER PURSE

Hook: H (5.50mm) or size appropriate for the yarn you choose
Yarn: The yarn you choose doesn’t matter, as long as your hook is a good match for it. I used an H hook and about 110 yards of worsted weight yarn for my purse in the photos, which measures 5″ wide and 7″ tall (not including the strap).
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: Unimportant

Notes: 
- This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
- Flower rounds will alternate between increase rounds and petals. Increase rounds will be called “round 1, 2, 3” etc, and petal rounds will be referred to as “1^st round of petals, 2^nd round of petals,” etc. Because ch petal round shares its space with the increase round below it, they are not counted as part of the pattern’s total rounds.
- CH2 on the increase rounds does not count as a stitch.
- Be mindful that the flower pattern alternates in calling for FLO (Front Loops Only) and BLO (Back Loops Only). This is crucial.
- If you’re having trouble with the flower, this post has tutorial photos that may help you.
- In my step-by-step photos, you’ll see a flower with blue and white petals. It’s up to you if you want to change colors.
PART I: THE FLOWER

Begin with a Magic Circle; CH2.

Round 1: 12 DC in MC. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (12)

1st Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. In same St, 2DC, CH2, SL ST. This is your first petal. (SL ST to next St. In same St, CH2, 2DC, CH2, SL ST to same St) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 2 (BLO – You’re now going to work around Round 1 again, this time working in the loop that you ignored during the first round of petals): SL ST to 1^stback loop of Round 1. CH2. 2DC in same ST. 2 DC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (24)

2nd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^stCH2. (12 petals)

Round 3 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 2. CH2. 2DC in same ST, DC in next ST. (2DC in next ST, DC in next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (36)

3rd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 4 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 3. CH2. 2DC in same ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (48)

4th Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. To complete flower, SL ST to 1^st BLO of Round 4. (12 petals)

At this point, your flower should look like this:

Take a moment to fasten off and weave in all your ends. Then attach whatever yarn you’re going to use for the body of the purse. It doesn’t matter where you attach it; just be sure you haven’t turned the flower. The petals should be facing you.

PART II: THE BODY OF THE PURSE

Row 1: CH2, 2DC in same ST. DC in each of the next 2 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 4 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. DC in each of the next 2 STS. 2DC in next. (18)

Row 2: CH1, turn. HDC in same. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 10 STS. HDC in each of the last 4 STS. (18)

Row 3: Ch1, turn. SC across. (18)

Rows 4-47: Repeat Row 3. (18)

Here’s what we’ve got now (back view):

PART III: SEAMING IT UP AND ADDING THE STRAP

Lay it out with the petals facing down (as in the previous photo). Bring up the bottom and line it up with the 3rd row, which is the first row to be done in all SC (below, left). CH1 and SC evenly along the edge, inserting your hook through both layers, seaming it together (below, right).

Once you’ve seamed that edge, fasten off and weave in your ends. (I wove mine in on the inside of the purse.)

Attach the yarn at the bottom of the purse on the other edge (below, left), still keeping the petals facing down. CH1 and SC evenly along the edge until you reach the end of the folded-up layer (below, middle). CH60 (or however long you want your strap to be… I made mine with a young toddler in mind). SL ST to the opposite top corner from where you started (below, right), then turn and go back around the CH60, SCing into each chain until you are back where you started. SL ST to the corner, fasten off and weave in ends.

If you want to, you can cut out a piece of felt and glue it to the back of the flower to hide the “wrong side”.

And you’re done!
June 4, 2015
Basketweave Throw Pillow

Ever since I made my first throw pillow, the 12″ Buttoned Throw Pillow, I’ve been on a bit of a pillow kick. Once I made one, about a dozen ideas for different ones started flooding into my head. The thing I love about crocheted throw pillows is that you can make them whatever color you want to match your decor, and between all the crochet stitches and color schemes out there, the design possibilities are endless. They’re a nice break from all the hats and scarves I’ve been making all winter, too!

This new throw pillow pattern is super cute, if I do say so myself. It utilizes the basketweave stitch, which looks so much more complicated than it really is. Even if you’re a beginner, give it a try. You might surprise yourself, and you’ll certainly impress your family and friends!

One thing I’ve learned in the process of making throw pillows is that they fit over the inserts the best when they’re just slightly smaller in length than the insert itself. So for this 12″ pillow, I edged both sides in SC until they were about 11.75″ (that’s width, not corner-to-corner). Any larger than that, and I’ve found that the edges get wavy and floppy and just don’t lay as nicely. So for this pattern, although I SC’d around the 3 times, you should measure your piece before edging and only add as many rounds of edging as you need to get to about 11.75″. You might need more or less than I did.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

BASKETWEAVE THROW PILLOW

Hook: H (5.00mm)
Yarn: About 340 yards (170 yards for each side) of your favorite medium worsted weight yarn
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: 7DC per 2″. If yours is slightly tighter, it’s not going to matter because I’ve given instructions on the “edging” section that will help you adapt the pattern to get to the right measurements. If your tension is looser than mine, however, you’ll want to adjust your hook size down.
You’ll also need: 12″ throw pillow insert (I got mine at Hobby Lobby), tape measure, yarn needle and scissors.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting Ch2 DOES count as 1st stitch of each row.

PATTERN (MAKE 2):

Ch 37.

Row 1: DC in 3^rd Ch from hook. Dc across. (36, including starting Ch)

Row 2: Ch 2; turn. Skipping 1st DC from previous row (see photo), FPDC in next 3 Sts. (BPDC in next 4 Sts, FPDC in next 4 Sts) across. (36)

Row 3: Ch 2; turn. Skipping 1st DC from previous row, BPDC in next 3 Sts. (FPDC in next 4 Sts, BPDC in next 4 Sts) across. (36)

Row 4: Ch 2; turn. Skipping 1st DC from previous row, BPDC in next 3 Sts. (FPDC in next 4 Sts, BPDC in next 4 Sts) across. (36)

Row 5: Ch 2; turn. Skipping 1st DC from previous row, FPDC in next 3 Sts. (BPDC in next 4 Sts, FPDC in next 4 Sts) across. (36)

Rows 6-?: Repeat rows 2-5 until the length is approximately the same as the width. (Mine took 26 rows. Since you’re making two of these, be sure to crochet the same number of rows for both pillow pieces.)

Edging:

Round 1: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting 3SC in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC. (NOTE: Two of your sides will have exactly 36 stitches, and your goal is to get as close to that as you can on the other two sides, so that you’ll end up with a perfect or close-to-perfect square. You may have to do a little visual math here. I did it by dividing the side into fourths – you can place a bobbie pin in the center, and then again in the center of each half, to help you visualize this. Then, because

36 (stitches) ÷ 4 (sections) = 9

…I put 9 SCs in each section. I know, I’m such a nerd, but I made you a diagram.)

Round 2: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting 3SC in each corner (which would be the middle SC from the previous round’s 3 corner SCs). Join with Sl St to 1st SC.

Measure your width. If it’s not 11.75″ yet, repeat Round 2 until it is.

For Pillow Side 1, fasten off and weave in ends. For Pillow Side 2, do not fasten off; weave in only your starting end, and continue to sewing instructions.

Sewing the Pillow Together:

Hold both pillow pieces together with the unfinished one closest to you, wrong sides facing each other, right sides facing out. (If you’re a perfectionist, you may want to make sure that the stitches from both pieces are going in the same direction, although it won’t affect assembly either way.) Insert your hook into the loop of the unfinished side, then slip stitch through the top loops of both pillow pieces. Ch1. Working through both pillow pieces throughout, SC in same St and evenly around 3 sides, putting 3SC in each corner. When you finish the 3rd side, insert your pillow. Continue to SC around the final side, sewing the pillow shut. Fasten off and weave in ends.

May 18, 2015
Never Ending Wildflower 12″ Granny Square
Welcome, Moogly Afghan CAL visitors!

If you’ve spent much time around my blog (and welcome, to those of you who haven’t), you know that I like to create modern, clean-looking patterns. I like simple color schemes, clean lines, and contemporary styles!

That’s why I decided to use my Never Ending Wildflower to create this square. The interest of this pattern doesn’t come from the square itself, but from the beauty of its focal centerpiece, the large, multi-petal wildflower. Of course, you can incorporate as many different colors into this pattern as you want; for me, I prefer just using two, and I love how the contrast makes the flower leap right off the square.

If you’d like to see the original pattern for the Never Ending Wildflower, and learn how to make it even bigger for different uses, you can view that pattern here.

And for our Dutch friends joining in on the Moogly CAL:
Dit patroon is (door HET HAAKBEEST) in het Nederlands vertaald. Je vindt een versie met foto’s voor rechtshandigen, eentje met foto’s speciaal voor linkshandigen, en een printerversie zonder foto’s.

THE NEVER ENDING WILDFLOWER 12″ GRANNY SQUARE

Hook: I (5.50mm)
Yarn: Vanna’s Choice, or your favorite worsted weight yarn. I used less than 100 yards (each) of Vanna’s Choice in White and Dusty Blue for my sample.
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: Circle after Round 3 should measure 3.75” in diameter.
Final Size: 12″x12″

Notes: 
- This pattern is written in American Standard Terms. The flower portion is taken from my original pattern, The Never Ending Wildflower.
- The flower, including its petals, are worked as a part of the granny square as a whole. Rounds will alternate between increase rounds and petals. Increase rounds will be called “round 1, 2, 3” etc, and petal rounds will be referred to as “1^st round of petals, 2^nd round of petals,” etc. Because each petal round shares its space with the increase round below it, they are not counted as part of the pattern’s total rounds.
- CH1 on the increase rounds does not count as a stitch.
- Be mindful that the pattern alternates in calling for FLO (Front Loops Only) and BLO (Back Loops Only).
- Each round of petals has 12 total petals. The first round of petals will cover 1 ST (of the previous round) per petal. The 2^nd round of petals will cover 2 STS per petal, the 3^rd round 3 STS, and so on.
PART 1: THE FLOWER

Begin with a Magic Circle; CH1.

Round 1: 12 DC in MC. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (12)

1^st Round of Petals (FLO – don’t miss this!): CH2. In same St, 2DC, CH2, SL ST. This is your first petal. (SL ST to next St. In same St, CH2, 2DC, CH2, SL ST to same St) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 2 (BLO – You’re now going to work around Round 1 again, this time working in the loop that you ignored during the first round of petals): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 1. CH1. 2DC in same ST. 2 DC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (24)

2^nd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 3 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 2. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in next ST. (2DC in next ST, DC in next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (36)

3^rd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 4 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 3. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (48)

4^th Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. To complete flower, SL ST to 1^st BLO of Round 4. (12 petals)

Change colors if desired.

PART 2: THE GRANNY SQUARE

Round 5: CH2 (does not count as a stitch, here and throughout the rest of the pattern). In same ST, 2DC, CH2, 2DC. DC in next. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. DC in next ST. (In next ST, 2DC, CH2, 2DC. DC in next. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. DC in next ST) 3 times. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 15.)

Round 6: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 19.)

Round 7: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 23.)

Round 8: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 27.)

Round 9: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 31.)

Round 10: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 35.)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.
May 6, 2015