© Photography by Kindred Photo & Design
Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!
I recently discovered Cascade Yarn’s Longwood Sport when I used it to make the South Haven Slouch pattern last month. I really fell in love with it, and wanted to work with it again. As a newbie crocheter, I always avoided patterns with anything thinner than worsted weight yarn because I thought it would take forever to work up. But eventually, I branched out and discovered that I actually love the look of items crocheted with thinner yarn. I encourage you to try it if you haven’t already!
This slouchy hat, called the Yenni Slouch (that’s pronounced like the English “Jenny”, by the way) is named after my beautiful niece who is modeling it in the photo. It also has a pair of matching boot cuffs — which, conveniently, are basically just little versions of the hat!
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One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 10” across at band, and is 9” tall.
- H hook (5.00mm) and G hook (4.25mm)
- Yarn needle
- Cascade Yarns Longwood Sport*, 250-270 yards. The color in the photos is Doeskin Heather.
*About Longwood Sport:
Weight: #3 light
Fiber: 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino Wool
Yardage: 100 g (3.5 oz) / 273 yds (250 m)
Gauge: 22-24 sts = 4″ (10 cm), US 5-6 (3.75-4.0mm)
- Button embellishment (mine is 1-1/8″)
Gauge: With H hook, 4HDC = 1″
SS (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
DC (double crochet)
SC+DC (this just means to put a single crochet and a double crochet in the same stitch)
3rd Loop – Some rows call for the stitches to be completed in the “3rd loop”. When working in turned rows, and after completing a row of HDC, these loops will be visible just below the front loop. So instead of inserting your hook into the top loops, you’ll only insert it into that 3rd loop. This will force the top loops to go to the front of your work, which is how we get the “ribbing” effect.
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
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Using H Hook, and leaving a 12″ tail, CH29.
Row 1: SC+DC in 3rd CH from hook. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (28)
Row 2: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (28)
Row 3: CH1, turn. Skip 1st ST, SC+DC in next ST. (Sk next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (28)
Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST. HDC in each of the next 26 STS. 2HDC in last ST. (28)
Row 5: CH1, turn. Working in 3rd loops, (SK next ST, SC+DC in next ST) across. (28)
Rows 6-72: Repeat Rows 2-5 in order until you have 72 total rows (you will end with a repeat of Row 4).
Switch to G hook.
Row 73: CH1, DO NOT turn. Begin to SC down the LONG edge of the project, putting 5SC in each section between ribbing rows (see photo below for a visual). You should end up with 90SC. Then, CH 11 to create the base of your button flap.
Row 74: Turn your work. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Continue to SC across. (100)
Rows 75-84: CH1, turn. SC across. (100)
Row 85 (edging): CH1, turn. SC across (100). Putting (SC, CH1, SC) in both corners, continue to SC around the edge of the button flap. Stop when you get here:
Sewing the hat together
Fasten off your yarn, leaving a long tail. Using a yarn needle, sew the ends of the hat together. Utilize the 3rd loop of the edge with the HDCs in order to blend the seam in so it is hardly noticeable:
Once you get to the top of the hat, make a knot and weave in the end.
Cinching the top
Turn your hat inside out. Use your starting tail to cinch the top of the hat by threading it through a yarn needle and weaving the needle in and out along the top edge of the hat at even intervals. Once you’ve gone all the way around, pull the tail tight and insert your yarn needle across the cinched area a few times to really keep it closed, then make a knot and weave in the end. Turn your hat right-side out again.
Finishing the Button Flap
We still need to sew our button flap in place and attach our button. Using a needle and appropriately-colored thread, position the button flap in place and sew along its 3 edges to secure it. Use your needle and thread to attach your button as well.
I Love the pattern and I’m anxious to do it. I measured my head and it’s 23″ iaround and I’m wondering if it will fit my head or if I need to adjust the number of stitches. It states that the band is 10 “.
If I have 72 rows total, why would I have a total of 90 SC when working down the long edge?
Because you aren’t putting an SC at the end of each row; you’re putting 5 SC for each section of 4 rows. (“Begin to SC down the LONG edge of the project, putting 5SC in each section between ribbing rows.”) There is a photo up in the instructions to help you visualize it.
I got it! Thank you!
Thanks for the fab pattern! I’ve already made the rustic version with #5 yarn. I started the Yenni today with #3 and it wasn’t looking like it would be slouchy enough. So I’ve started over with a starting ch of 35. I think it’s going to be just right!
What a great hat in going to attempt making it thank you for sharing the pattern 🙂
Thank you for sharing your pattern!
Thank you for the free pattern!
Like you hat I like. ot do hats