Category: All Free Patterns

Never Ending Wildflower
I’ve got a great new flower pattern and tutorial for you! I’ve been brainstorming how to make a “giant flower” for a while, and I’m finally happy with what I’ve come up with. I’m loving this flower and am so exited about all of its potential uses.

What makes this flower “never-ending” is how it is built. Between each round of petals is a round of increases, so the petals don’t pile on top of each other. What that means is that rather than getting taller and bulkier, the flower stays the same height, and just gets wider. So, theoretically, you could keep adding rounds of petals and increases to make it the size of a football field, and it would still only be less than an inch tall, making it great as an addition to things like blankets and throw pillows. It’s not 1-dimensional like your typical appliqué; it has depth and interest, without the bulk.

And what’s really cool is that this flower works right into a granny square, so you can use it in an afghan or as a throw pillow cover. I’m telling you, the applications are as endless as your imagination. If you want to see how I turned this flower into a granny square, check out this blog post!

…And if you like this flower, you’re going to LOVE the Wildflower Shoulder Bag:

A note about this pillow & afghan combo…

I have gotten so many emails, messages and comments about the pattern for the pillow shown in this photo. It is not my creation (someone used the Neverending Wildflower and turned it into a pillow), and unfortunately, the photo of it keeps getting linked to me. I do not have this pattern variation. I can, however, tell you that the stunning blanket pictured with it is Sophie’s Universe by Dedri Uys.

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THE NEVERENDING WILDFLOWER

Hook: H (5.00mm) or size appropriate for the yarn you choose
Yarn: The yarn you choose doesn’t matter, as long as your hook is a good match for it. I used an H hook and worsted weight yarn for my sample in the photos, which measures 8″ across.
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: Unimportant

Video Tutorial (sort of): If you have a hard time getting this pattern started, there is a video tutorial for my Wildflower Shoulder Bag that matches up with the first two rounds of petals in this pattern. Please note that after the 2nd round of petals, the video will no longer be applicable (but by then, you’ll probably have the hang of it anyway). View tutorial here.

Notes: 
- This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
- Rounds will alternate between increase rounds and petals. Increase rounds will be called “round 1, 2, 3” etc, and petal rounds will be referred to as “1^st round of petals, 2^nd round of petals,” etc. Because ch petal round shares its space with the increase round below it, they are not counted as part of the pattern’s total rounds.
- CH1 on the increase rounds does not count as a stitch.
- Be mindful that the pattern alternates in calling for FLO (Front Loops Only) and BLO (Back Loops Only).
- Each round of petals has 12 total petals. The first round of petals will cover 1 ST (of the previous round) per petal. The 2^nd round of petals will cover 2 STS per petal, the 3^rd round 3 STS, and so on. I’m giving you instructions up to 5 rounds of petals, but using this formula and a little imagination, you can make it even bigger.
THE PATTERN

Begin with a Magic Circle; CH1.

Round 1: 12 DC in MC. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (12)

1st Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. In same St, 2DC, CH2, SL ST. This is your first petal. (SL ST to next St. In same St, CH2, 2DC, CH2, SL ST to same St) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 2 (BLO – You’re now going to work around Round 1 again, this time working in the loop that you ignored during the first round of petals): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 1. CH1. 2DC in same ST. 2 DC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (24)

2nd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 3 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 2. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in next ST. (2DC in next ST, DC in next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (36)

3rd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 4 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 3. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (48)

4th Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. To complete flower, SL ST to 1^st BLO of Round 4. (12 petals)

Round 5 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 4. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in each of the next 3 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 3 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (60)

5th Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in each of the next 3 STS. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in each of the next 3 STS. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Fasten off and weave in ends, or keep adding increase rounds and petal rounds to make it even bigger!
May 6, 2015
Buttoned Throw Pillow

I’ve been watching a lot of HGTV lately. We purchased our first house this past fall, and for the first time in my life, I have the final say (well, with the husband of course) on what my home looks like! We’ve already tackled our dining room, painting it the most beautiful shade of blue. Next on the list? The living room! While it’ll take us a little while to save the money for this next makeover, that doesn’t stop me from imagining the possibilities. So, when I see the big reveals on shows like Fixer Upper (my favorite!) and Love It Or List It (also a great one), I can’t help but analyze all of their design choices and make mental notes of which ones would fit nicely into my own dream living room.

One thing I know for sure about my living room makeover is that I want it to incorporate a few of my own handmade items. I can definitely see my Mason Jar Cozy up on the fireplace mantel, and a larger version of my Sweet Ocean Breeze blanket draped over the couch. This newest project, the Buttoned Throw Pillow, is just one more way to incorporate my yarn obsession into the space!

This pattern is for a 12″ throw pillow, but it’s not difficult to make bigger (or smaller). I’ve included those directions in the notes section of the pattern.

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12″ BUTTONED THROW PILLOW

Hook: H (5.00mm)
Yarn: About 260 yards (130 per side) of your favorite medium worsted weight yarn
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: 4 rows of 4 SC = 1 square inch
You’ll also need: 12″ uncovered throw pillow (I got mine at Hobby Lobby), yarn needle, decorative buttons of your choice, and tools to attach buttons.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) The buttons are decorative only, so I didn’t worry about adding button holes. If you wanted to make this a removable pillowcase, you could probably figure it out pretty easily. I really wanted the raised seam look all the way around the pillow so I opted not to overlap the fabric.
(3) To make the pattern for a larger or smaller pillow, just make sure to begin with an odd number of chains. Your starting chain and first row, when stretched, should barely touch both seams of your insert pillow (keeping in mind that you’ll be adding a couple small rows of border at the end).

PATTERN FOR FRONT SIDE:

Ch 37.
Row 1: SC in 2nd Ch from hook and in each Ch across. (36)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across. (36)
Rows 3-6: Repeat Row 2.
Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Sk 1st St. SC+DC in next St. (Sk next St, SC+DC in next St) across. (36)
Rows 8-36: Repeat Row 7.

Edging:
Round 1: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC. You should have 36 SC on each side.
Round 2: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC. You should have 38 SC on each side. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Finishing:
Attach buttons evenly spaced down the 1st 6 rows of the pillow (where you did the SCs only).

PATTERN FOR BACK SIDE:

Ch 37.
Row 1: SC+DC in 3rd Ch from hook. (Sk next St, SC+DC in next St) across. (36)
Row 2: Ch 1. Sk 1st St. SC+DC in next St. (Sk next St, SC+DC in next St) across. (36)
Rows 3-36: Repeat Row 2.

Edging:
Round 1: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC. You should have 36 SC on each side.
Round 2: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC. You should have 38 SC on each side. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sewing Sides Together:
Hold both sides together as you want them to be placed on the pillow. Join your yarn through both pieces, somewhere on the edge (I started in a corner). Ch1, then SC through the lined-up stitches from both pieces, seaming them together. Continue around 3 sides of the pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Insert pillow. Continue to SC along the remaining side, enclosing the pillow completely. Join with a Sl St to the first SC of the round, fasten off and weave in ends.

April 29, 2015
Basic Men’s Hat
Project status: Complete | Hats collected: 565

Please note that this pattern was originally a part of the Hats for the Homeless campaign from 2015. We are no longer collecting hats for this project, but the pattern can still be found below!

BASIC MEN’S HAT SEAMLESS CROCHET PATTERN

Hook: I (5.50mm)
Yarn: Soft worsted weight yarn (I typically use Hobby Lobby’s “I Love This Yarn” or Lion Brand’s “Vanna’s Choice”)
Difficulty: Easy

Notes:
- You will work in a continuous round. You will not join or turn. Use a stitch marker to keep track of your rows.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

With I hook, make a Magic Circle (also known as an Adjustable Loop).

Round 1: 8 HDC in magic circle. Do not join. (8)
Round 2: 2 HDC in first St from Round 1 and in each stitch around (16)
Round 3: (2 HDC in next St; 1 HDC in next) around (24)
Round 4: (2 HDC in next St; 1 HDC in each of the next 2 St) around (32)
Round 5: (2 HDC in next St; 1 HDC in each of the next 3 St) around (40)
Round 6: (2 HDC in next St; 1 HDC in each of the next 4 St) around (48)
Round 7: (2 HDC in next St; 1 HDC in each of the next 5 St) around (56)
Rounds 8-21: 1 HDC in each St around (56)
Rounds 22-25: 1 SC in each St around (56)

Fasten off and weave in ends.
April 13, 2015
Mason Jar Cover

This past fall, our family moved from Indiana to Michigan. We purchased a cute little house (our first!) and settled in just in time to see the huge tree in the front yard shed its fire-red leaves, and before we’d even unpacked everything, the winter chill was moving in. So you’ll understand what I’m saying when I tell you that I’ve waited rather impatiently for spring to come. We’ve never had a nice backyard, but we do now; and it even comes with a cute porch that’s just begging for some DIY decor!

My first project? Mason jar cozies. I wanted to make something that would look cute during the day and, with the addition of a tea light, would cast a beautiful patterned shadow around it at night for those summer campfire evenings. I think a line of these would look stunning in the dark.

Of course, once I started to crochet, more ideas came into my mind for these cute mason jar cozies. They will look adorable as a vase for fresh flowers, or as part of a front porch “welcome” display. As you can see in my photos, I even got my husband to cut me some small budding limbs off of the big tree in our front yard, and now one of my cozies is on display in our dining room!

There are about as many uses for mason jars as there are stars in the sky, so why not make them look extra pretty too? I used wide-mouthed Ball Mason Jars in two different sizes (32oz and 16oz). Scroll down for the pattern in both sizes!

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MASON JAR COZY (FOR A BALL® 32OZ WIDE MOUTH QUART JAR)

Hook: H (5.00mm)
Yarn: Less than 1.5 oz of light (3) cotton yarn (I used Sinfonia in “Verde”)
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: After you complete round 4, the diameter of your circle should measure about 3″.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in a seamless round. Do not join at the end of rounds or chain unless instructed. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning of your rounds.

THE PATTERN:

Begin with a Magic Circle.

Round 1: 10 HDC in magic circle (10)
Round 2: 2 HDC in each St around (20)
Round 3: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around (30)
Round 4: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 Sts) around (40)
Rounds 5-9: SC in each St around (40)
Round 10: (SC+DC in next St, SK next St) around (40)
Rounds 11-24 (or until just before the cozy comes to the point on the mason jar where the jar begins to narrow again): Repeat Round 10 (40)
Rounds 25-28: SC tightly in each St around (40)

Finish by slip stitching into the next 3 stitches to smooth out the final row. Fasten off and weave in ends.

MASON JAR COZY (FOR A BALL® 16OZ WIDE MOUTH PINT JAR)

Hook: H (5.00mm)
Yarn: Less than 1 oz of light (3) cotton yarn (I used Sinfonia in “Verde”)
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: After you complete round 3, the diameter of your circle should measure about 2.25″.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in a seamless round. Do not join at the end of rounds or chain unless instructed. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning of your rounds.

THE PATTERN:

Begin with a Magic Circle.

Round 1: 10 HDC in magic circle (10)
Round 2: 2 HDC in each St around (20)
Round 3: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around (30)
Round 4: 2 HDC in next St, 1 HDC in each of the next 6 Sts, 2 HDC in next St, 1 HDC in each of the next 7 Sts. Repeat. (34)
Rounds 5-9: SC in each St around (34)
Round 10: (SC+DC in next St, SK next St) around (34)
Rounds 11-19 (or until just before the cozy comes to the point on the mason jar where the jar begins to narrow again): Repeat Round 10 (34)
Rounds 20-23: SC tightly in each St around (34)

Finish by slip stitching into the next 3 stitches to smooth out the final row. Fasten off and weave in ends.

April 6, 2015
Sandy Cowl
Last winter, I had the privilege of designing a cowl for All Free Crochet’s blog, Stitch & Unwind. I had a lot of fun doing it, and I am loving the final result. Now, the full pattern is available right here on my blog!

This cowl is made with Lion Brand’s Heartland in “Grand Canyon”, and I highly recommend using it because it makes the detailing and drape sooo pretty. I also made a matching slouch hat pattern!

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SANDY COWL

Size: 30” around x 10” tall
Gauge: With I hook, 6 SC = 2”
Stitches Used: CH, SC, DC, SL ST

You Will Need:
- Approx. 280 yards of your favorite worsted weight yarn (I used Lion Brand’s Heartland)
- Hook Size I (5.50mm)
- Yarn needle
- Stitch marker
Notes:
(1) Pattern is written in American standard terms.
(2) Pattern is begun in turned rounds, then switches to a seamless round and back again. These changes are noted in the pattern. Use a stitch marker during the seamless round to keep track of your rounds.

INSTRUCTIONS

To begin:
CH 91.

Round 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each ST across. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC, being careful not to twist the round. (90)

Round 2: CH1; turn. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (90)

Rounds 3-7: Repeat Round 2. (90)

You will now work in a seamless round. Do not join, chain or turn until instructed to do so.

Round 8: SC+DC in first ST, SK next ST. (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around. (90)

Round 9: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around. (90)

(Wondering if your placement is correct? Your SC+DC combos should be completed in the tops of each SC from previous row, with each DC from previous row being left empty.)

Rounds 10-26: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around. (90)

Round 27: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around, substituting a (SC+SL ST) for the last (SC+DC) combination. (90)

Round 28: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (90)

You will now work in turned rounds.

Round 29: CH1; turn. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to to of first SC. (90)

Rounds 30-34: Repeat Round 29. (90)

Fasten off and weave in ends.
January 8, 2015
Sandy Slouch Hat

A new slouch hat pattern! YAY!

I love slouch hats. And you guys must, too, because the Jenny Slouch quickly became one of my most popular patterns of all time (“all time”, of course, referring to the one year I’ve been blogging). There’s just something about a cute slouch that makes you feel extra adorable when you’re out in the cold. And it’s a great way to hide a bad hair day, which – as a tired mom of two toddler boys – is almost a daily thing for me.

Here’s a new slouch pattern I’ve been working on, and it even has a matching cowl that I think you’ll also love, which I originally designed for All Free Crochet’s blog, Stitch & Unwind!

The button on the hat is purely decorative, meaning there’s no buttonhole. (I figure, why go to the trouble of making it functional, when you’re never going to need to unbutton it, anyway?)

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This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

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SANDY SLOUCH

Hooks: K (6.5mm) and I (5.5mm)
Yarn: About 175 yards of worsted weight acrylic yarn; I used <1 skein of Lion Brand Heartland in “Grand Canyon”. (Heartland is a lighter worsted weight yarn, comparable to Bernat Satin or Red Heart Soft, so if you use something a little thicker like Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn it may turn out slightly larger.)
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: A round of HDCs will = 1″. So, when you complete your 6th and final increase round, it should measure about 6″ in diameter.
Finished Size: Approximately 10″ tall, and 9.5″ wide
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker (such as a bobby pin), 1″ button and materials to attach button

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in a seamless round until the band, when it becomes turned rounds. Do not join, chain or turn unless instructed to do so.
(3) Some have struggled with understanding that is happening once you get to the band and button area, so here’s an explanation I replied with in the comments section that seemed to help, and you can come back to this if you get tripped up too. What you’re doing in Round 21 is setting the base for your flap. Because of the flap, we are not able to work in continuous or joined rounds. We’re just going to be going back and forth, building the band, including the flap. (Which is why the stitch totals switch from 60 to 66, because we created 6 additional stitches with our CH7.) So in Round 22, you’re SCing back down that CH7 that you’ve just made, and then continuing on all the way around the hat until you reach the end of that round. (Technically it would be considered a row at this point, but I thought that would be even more confusing.) Then you’ll CH1 and turn, and SC back around the hat, all the way back up to the top of the CH7 section you made, then CH1, turn around and SC back down the flap and around the hat. You’re going to keep doing this until the pattern tells you to stop, and you will end up with a flap that is the same thickness as the band.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: With K hook, make a magic circle (view a tutorial here).

Round 1: 10 HDC in magic circle. (10)

Round 2: 2HDC in each ST around. (20)

Round 3: (2HDC in next ST, HDC in next ST) around. (30)

Round 4: (2HDC in next ST, HDC in next 2 STS) around. (40)

Round 5: (2HDC in next ST, HDC in next 3 STS) around. (50)

Round 6: (2HDC in next ST, HDC in next 4 STS) around. (60)

Round 7: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around. (60)

Rounds 8-20: Repeat Round 7.

Round 21: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) 29 times (until you only have 2 STS left in the round). SC in next ST, SL ST in next ST. CH7. (60)
(Note: the CH7 will form the base of our button flap.)

Switch to I hook. You will now crochet the band of the hat, and we want it to be a little snug so that it doesn’t fall off.

Round 22: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Continue to SC around. (66)

Rounds 23-29: CH1, turn. SC around. (66)

Finishing: CH1 (do NOT turn). SC around the entire edge of the hat, including the button flap, putting 2SC in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Button: Place your button in the center of the flap and, using yarn or thread, secure it through both layers (the flap and the band underneath).

January 8, 2015
Maribel Cowl & Boot Cuffs Set

This is a matching set of patterns that I’m very excited about! In fact, I’m officially declaring this set my “Favorite Winter Accessory of 2014”. (Last year it was the Chunky Ribbed Cowl.) I made my samples in linen and light gray, because I’m a sucker for neutral colors. But, this set would look great in any color!

To view the patterns, click their individual photos below.

December 11, 2014
Maribel Boot Cuffs

Boot cuffs have become increasingly popular over the past couple of years, and the trend doesn’t seem to be slowing down a bit. It’s probably because they are such a simply cute way to bring an outfit together. And for us crocheters, they’re quick and easy to make.

The Maribel Boot Cuffs pair perfectly with the Maribel Cowl, and can even be made from the yarn you’ll have left over from making the cowl. This set has quickly become a favorite of mine, and I hope you’ll love it, too!

The pattern below is for size small boot cuffs. It is worked in a way that allows you to easily increase their size, by merely adding more rows until they are the length you prefer.

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MARIBEL BOOT CUFFS

Hook: I (5.50 mm)
Yarn: Worsted (For 2 cuffs, size small, I used about 150 yards of Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in “linen”)
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: A row of 8 HDC = about 2″
Finished Size: Approximately 13″ around before sewing, and 6″ tall
Other Materials Needed: 10 small buttons, needle and thread for embellishing, yarn needle

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern uses a stitch I call RibHDC, in which you complete your half double crochet stitch in the single loop just below the loops you usually use. This is what gives the boot cuffs a faux-knit, ribbed look. For a visual explanation, you can view this photo tutorial.
(3) HELPFUL HINT: When RibHDC-ing, sometimes it’s easy to miss the last stitch of the row because it ends up at a bit of an angle. So, if your boot cuff is getting skinnier and skinnier, you’re probably neglecting it. Counting your stitches will solve this problem. 🙂
(4) Starting Ch does not count as an HDC.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN (MAKE 2)

To begin: Ch 23.

Row 1: HDC in 2nd Ch from hook, and in each St across. (22 HDC not counting the Ch)

Row 2: Ch1; turn. RibHDC across. (22 RibHDC)

Rows 3-31 (for size small; or, add rows until boot cuff is the length you want it to be… just make sure you end with both tails on the same side of the cowl, as in Step 1’s photo below): Ch1; turn. RibHDC across. (22 RibHDC)

Fasten off, leaving a long finishing tail. To sew together:

Lay cuff flat so that both tails are on the right side (photo 1). Fold cuff so that the end with the long finishing tail overlaps the other end by about 1/2″ (photo 2). This overlap will help give the impression that the buttons we add are actually fastening the cuff together (but without the hassle of actually having to button up the cuff). Use the finishing tail to sew the ends together. I put my seam at the center of the 2 ending rows (which is actually photo 4), and down through the exposed loops of the row below (photo 3), working up and down this line. Fasten off and weave in your ends.

Sew 5 buttons onto each cuff, evenly spaced down the seam that you just sewed.

December 10, 2014
Maribel Cowl

I never publish a pattern I’m not excited about. But sometimes, when a certain idea comes along, what I see in my head translates to what I create with my hands… and I totally fall in love with the finished product. This is one of those patterns! I just love it.

The Maribel Cowl (along with its matching Boot Cuffs) is possibly one of my favorite personal designs of my first year in business (which wraps up in January, believe it or not!). It’s not that spectacular; it’s actually really simple. But it’s a stitch that I don’t often see being used, and the result is a gorgeously textured, almost faux-knit accessory that will keep you stylish all winter long.

This pattern would look great in any color, but I am almost always partial to natural, neutral colors, so I chose Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in “linen.” I love how it came out. If you follow my lead, you’re going to need 2 skeins, so be sure to check your dye lots! It’s always a good thing to do, but I’ve noticed that this particular color of ILTY tends to vary greatly and can often take on an almost pinkish hue. Just a tip.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

MARIBEL COWL

Hook: K (6.50mm)
Yarn: Worsted (I used about 500 yards, or less than 2 skeins, of Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in “linen”)
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: Not crucial, but a row of 10 HDC = about 3″
Finished Size: Approximately 34″ around, 15″ tall

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern uses a stitch I call RibHDC, in which you complete your half double crochet stitch in the single loop just below the loops you usually use. This is what gives the cowl a faux-knit, ribbed look. For a visual explanation, you can view this photo tutorial.
(3) HELPFUL HINT: When RibHDC-ing, sometimes it’s easy to miss the last stitch of the row because it ends up at a bit of an angle. So, if your cowl is getting skinnier and skinnier, you’re probably neglecting it. Counting your stitches will solve this problem. 🙂
(4) Starting Ch does not count as an HDC.

THE PATTERN

To begin: Ch 54.

Row 1: HDC in 2nd Ch from hook, and in each St across. (53 HDC not counting the Ch)

Row 2: Ch1; turn. RibHDC across. (53 RibHDC)

Rows 3-88 (or until cowl is about 34″ long): Ch1; turn. RibHDC across. (53 RibHDC)

Fasten off, leaving a long finishing tail. Use the tail to whip stitch the last row to the first row, joining the piece into a cowl. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

December 10, 2014
Thick ‘n Cozy Ribbed Cowl

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THICK ‘N COZY RIBBED COWL

Hook: P (11.50mm)
Yarn: Super Bulky (I used 3 skeins of Lion Brand’s “Hometown USA”)
Buttons: 4 large. I used 1″ wooden buttons.
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: Not crucial, but a row of 10 HDC = about 6″
Finished Size: Approximately 27″ around, 13″ tall

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in rows, then sewn together at the end. The buttons are optional, and you may choose to use them as functioning buttons, but I decided to sew the cowl together and add the buttons to be decorative. (In other words, in my finished cowl, the sewing is holding it together, not the buttons; although, it appears as though the buttons are functional.) If you choose to not sew your cowl together and instead rely on functioning buttons or toggles, be sure to use large enough buttons that they will not slip through the large spaces created by using such a bulky yarn and large hook.
(3) As noted above, this pattern uses a stitch I call RibHDC, in which you complete your half double crochet stitch in the single loop just below the loops you usually use. This is what gives the cowl a faux-knit, ribbed look. For a visual explanation, you can view this photo tutorial.
(4) HELPFUL HINT: When RibHDC-ing, sometimes it’s easy to miss the last stitch of the row because it ends up at a bit of an angle. So, if your cowl is getting skinnier and skinnier, you’re probably neglecting it. Counting your stitches will solve this problem. 🙂

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: Ch 43.

Row 1: HDC in 2nd Ch from hook, and in each St across. (42 HDC not counting the Ch)

Row 2: Ch1; turn. RibHDC across. (42 RibHDC)

Rows 3-19 (or until scarf is about 12″ tall): Ch1; turn. RibHDC across. (42 RibHDC)

Row 20: Ch1; turn. SC evenly around the entire cowl.

Fasten off, leaving a long finishing tail. Weave in your starting tail only, then choose one of the following options for finishing.

Finishing Option 1: Decorative Buttons or Toggles
Fold your cowl so that the ends meet. Overlap one edge about 1″ over the other edge, then use your long finishing tail to sew them together, going up and down through both edges of the cowl with small stitches. Fasten off and weave in. Attach 4 large buttons or toggles in even increments down the seam so that it appears as though the cowl has been “buttoned up.”

Finishing Option 2: Functional Buttons or Toggles
Weave in your finishing tail (you won’t need it for this option). Sew 4 large buttons or toggles evenly down one side. To wear, slip the buttons or toggles through the stitches of the other end of the cowl.

December 9, 2014