Category: Hats

  • Cabin Fever Slouch

    Cabin Fever Slouch

    A good slouchy beanie is a staple in any cozy cold weather wardrobe. And I don’t know about you, but I am so ready for a little cold weather!

    The snow can hold off for a while as far as I’m concerned, but bring on the crisp fall air and the fireplaces and apple cider and changing leaves. Fall in Michigan is short-lived but absolutely stunning!

    To complete the set, I made matching cowl. Click here to view the pattern for the Cabin Fever Cowl!

    About the Yarn

    For this pattern set, I used a yarn that I acquired during our family vacation to the Great Smoky Mountains this summer. I have always wanted to visit an A.C. Moore store, but I live several hours from the nearest one… so when our road trip took us right through Cincinnati, we made a quick stop – literally, I basically ran to the yarn aisle and went straight for Stitch Studio By Nicole’s Earthtone, grabbed a bunch of them, and hurried up to checkout. (When you have a travel-weary toddler waiting for you in the van, you don’t get to take your time!)

    I’ve seen several of you using Earthtone for my patterns throughout the years, and always wanted to get my hands on some. I absolutely love it. It’s soft and the colors are rich and beautiful and the tweediness adds so much character. A good tweed gives acrylic projects a much more natural look, and it’s also very forgiving. I can hardly even tell where my seam is from the outside!

    (Edited 10/20/20 to add: This yarn is now discontinued. There are so many beautiful aran weight yarns available in stores, though, so no worries… just use your favorite one!) 

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    I’ve put together a step-by-step video tutorial for you visual learners! The instructions for the pattern are written right on the screen, so you can follow along visually while also developing your pattern-reading skills. It’s a feature I’ve gotten lots of compliments for on my videos, so it’s definitely worth the extra effort it takes to include it!

    ABOUT THOSE CUTE LEATHER TAGS

    Those adorable tags on my sample hats aren’t actually leather at all – they’re cork! I had mine printed by All This Wood (affiliate link). They always do a great job for me. If you purchase tags of your own through this link, you won’t pay any extra, but I’ll get a small percentage of the sale. My affiliate links are just one of the ways I am able to keep releasing free patterns, so I am always incredibly appreciative of anyone who uses them!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    CABIN FEVER SLOUCH

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 9″ tall x 9.75″ wide, when laid flat

    Hook: H (5.0mm)

    Yarn: Approx. 200 yards of #4 aran weight. You will need about 125 yards of COLOR A and 75 yards of COLOR B. Yarn used in sample photos is Stitch Studio By Nicole’s Earthtones, previously found at A.C. Moore stores (now discontinued). 

    Gauge: First 5 rounds = 4″ across

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, fur pom (optional)

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    MC     (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    CH (chain)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitch”)

    Special Stitch:

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. (When you work the band of the hat, it will be behind the back loop.) When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) When instructed to “join”, always join with a slip stitch to the first stitch of the round.
    (4) Instead of fastening off at each color change, you will be carrying your yarn up the seam on the inside of the hat. Instructions for how to do this are written into the pattern.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To begin: With COLOR A, make a magic circle, CH1.

    Round 1: 10 HDC in MC, join. (10)

    Round 2: Attach COLOR B (do not fasten off COLOR A); CH1, turn. In 3rd loops, 2 HDC in each ST around. Join, making sure working tail from COLOR A is in front of the join stitch. (20)

    Round 3: Switch to COLOR A; CH1, turn. In 3rd loops throughout, 2 HDC in first ST, HDC in next ST, (2 HDC in next ST, HDC in next ST) around. Join, making sure working tail from COLOR B is behind the join stitch. (30)

    From this point on, every time you join, be sure that the yarn is always carried up on the same side of the fabric.

    Round 4: Switch to COLOR B; CH1, turn. In 3rd loops throughout, 2 HDC in first ST, HDC in each of the next 2 STS, (2 HDC in next ST, HDC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join. (40)

    Round 5: Switch to COLOR A; CH1, turn. In 3rd loops throughout, 2 HDC in first ST, HDC in each of the next 3 STS, (2 HDC in next ST, HDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. Join. (50)

    Round 6: Switch to COLOR B; CH1, turn. In 3rd loops throughout, 2 HDC in first ST, HDC in each of the next 4 STS, (2 HDC in next ST, HDC in each of the next 4 STS) around. Join. (60)

    Round 7: Switch to COLOR A; CH1, turn. In 3rd loops throughout, 2 HDC in first ST, HDC in each of the next 5 STS, (2 HDC in next ST, HDC in each of the next 5 STS) around. Join. (70)

    Round 8: Switch to COLOR B; CH1, turn. In 3rd loops throughout, 2 HDC in first ST, HDC in each of the next 6 STS, (2 HDC in next ST, HDC in each of the next 6 STS) around. Join. (80)

    Round 9: Switch to COLOR A; CH1, turn. In 3rd loops, HDC in each ST around. Join. (80)

    Round 10: Switch to COLOR B; CH1, turn. In 3rd loops, HDC in each ST around. Join. (80)

    Round 11: Switch to COLOR A; CH1, turn. In 3rd loops, HDC in each ST around. Join. (80)

    Rounds 12-23: Repeat Rounds 10-11.

    – – – – – –

    Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to Round 23 (the final round of the hat) with SL STS as we go.

    – – – – – –

    Row 1: CH9. SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 7 chains. SL ST into the 3rd loop (now found behind the top loops since we didn’t turn our work) of the first HDC from Round 23, the stitch on which your CH9 was built. SL ST into the 3rd loop of the next HDC from Round 23. (8, plus the two slip stitches along Round 23)

    The section we just created, built on the CH9, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 23, SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 7 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in 3rd loop of each of the next 2 STS of Round 23. (8, plus the 2 SL STS along Round 23)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 23, SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

    Rows 5-80: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along Round 23.

    Fasten off and use your tail to sew together the gap between the first and last rows of the ribbing, then weave in your ends.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #cabinfeverslouch and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Hyland Men’s Hat

    Hyland Men’s Hat

    Every year, I make my boys a hat for Christmas. They’ve always been various character hats like TMNT, Lion Guard, etc., but at ages 6 and 8, we’ve transitioned out of the Disney Jr phase and into a more mature (ha!) one. Pikachu and Link have replaced Mickey Mouse and Kion, and the boys reach for their simple Walmart slouchies way more often than their Lion Guard hats. (How did they get so old?)

    And then there’s little Henry, who doesn’t keep a hat on long enough to make a character hat worth the time or energy. Toddlers, right!?

    And then there’s the husband, who has been asking me for a hat for I’m-embarrassed-to-say-how-long. Sorry, babe.

    So this year, I went in a different direction and designed a pattern that would work for all of them. It has just the right amount of slouch, and uses a very guy-friendly yarn called Jeans (from Lion Brand). This yarn is soft, heathery, and just looks really good.

    Then, I did a little searching online to find some patches for the boys’ hats. The older two are super into the Zelda video game, and I was so pumped to find these Hylian Shield patches online. (Listen to me, throwing around that video game lingo like I actually know what I’m talking about. I don’t.)

    I then searched for something Mario-related for little Henry, and found this adorable mushroom patch that I knew he would recognize.

    I left my husband’s hat patch-free, but of course, all four of them got Mom’s Yarn + Chai tag sewn on. Gotta represent! (I get my tags from All This Wood on Etsy.)

    And for those of you that like to know name origins — I ended up naming this hat the Hyland Slouch because for a while, when my boys would refer to that Hylian Shield, I thought they were saying hy-land instead of hy-lee-an and it just stuck.

    Of course, despite its name, this hat isn’t just for the guys. It would make a great girls’ hat, too! (But let’s be honest, girls get a lot more dedicated patterns than guys, right?)

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    Hyland Men’s Hat

    View on Ravelry

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Sizes (h x w): 8″ x 8″ (toddler), 9″ x 9″ (child), 10″ x 9.5″ (teen/adult small), 10.5″ x 10″ (adult large). Width is measured at the bottom of the ribbing when the hat is laid flat, but the widest part of the hat (near the middle) will be about .5-1″ more.

    Hook: J (6.0 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: Lion Brand Jeans Yarn or similar #4 worsted weight yarn. Approximate amounts as follows: 170 yards (toddler), 210 yards (child), 240 yards (teen/adult small), 280 yards (adult large).

    Gauge: 5 increase rounds of 10 HDC = 4.25″ across.

    Pattern For Gauge:
    Round 1: 10HDC in magic circle; join (10)
    Round 2: 2HDC in each ST around; join (20)
    Round 3: (2HDC in next, HDC in next) around; join (30)
    Round 4: (2HDC in next, HDC in next 2) around; join (40)
    Round 5: (2HDC in next, HDC in next 3) around; join (50)

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    Magic Circle     (view my tutorial here)
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    YUSC (yarn under single crochet – see Special Stitches)
    YUHDC (yarn under half double crochet – see Special Stitches)

    Special Stitches:

    Yarn Under Single Crochet (YUSC) – this is the same as a regular SC, but with one simple variation. In a regular SC, you insert your hook, yarn over, draw yarn through (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops. With a Yarn Under Single Crochet, you will insert your hook, yarn over, draw yarn through the stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn under, draw through both loops.

    Yarn Under Half Double Crochet (YUHDC) – this is the same as a regular HDC, but with one simple variation. In a regular HDC, you yarn over, insert your hook, yarn over, draw yarn through (3 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops. With a Yarn Under Half Double Crochet, you will yarn over, insert your hook, yarn over, draw yarn through the stitch (3 loops on hook), yarn under, draw through all three loops.

    A Note About Changing Colors:
    To keep the written pattern simple, I have written it without including color changes (since it would be different for every size). The hat can be made all one color, with 2 or 3 colors (as in my samples), or really with any number of color changes you wish. To change colors, keep the following tips in mind:

    1. To decide where to put your color changes, first decide how many colors you want, then take the finished height of the size you are making and divide it by the number of colors you want to use. So for instance, if I want to make a children’s hat (9″ tall) with 3 colors, I’ll divide 9 by 3 (9/3=3). I know that each color block will be about 3″, so I’ll keep a ruler handy as I work the pattern and I’ll change colors every 3″.
    2. I feel that the cleanest color change happens between two rounds of YUSC (as opposed to YUHDC), so I always placed my color changes at that part of the pattern, wherever it fell closest to the measurements I was going for.

    Additional Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) Pattern is worked top-down, in a spiral. Do not join or chain unless instructed.
    (3) Pattern is written for toddler size with additional sizes in brackets [child, teen/adult small, adult large]. So, for example, if it says “12 [13, 14, 15]”, the first number is for the toddler size, and the numbers in brackets are child, teen/adult small, and adult large instructions, respectively. If there is only one number, it applies regardless of which size you are making. If you are working from printed instructions, it helps to circle or highlight the numbers you are following before you begin.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    Note: The first few rounds will produce a VERY wavy circle. As you work further down the hat, the waves will smooth out. This is how we get that cinched look at the top.

    To begin: Make a magic circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 12 [13,14,15] SC in magic circle. (12 [13, 14, 15])

    Round 2: 2YUSC in each ST around. (24 [26, 28, 30])

    Round 3: 3YUSC in each ST around. (72 [78, 84, 90])

    Rounds 4-5: YUSC in each ST around. (72 [78, 84, 90])

    Rounds 6-8: YUHDC in each ST around. (72 [78, 84, 90])

    Rounds 9-13: YUSC in each ST around. (72 [78, 84, 90])

    Rounds 14 – ?: Repeat Rounds 6-13, in order (3 rounds YUHDC, 5 rounds YUSC), until hat measures 6.5 [7.5, 8.5, 9]” tall, then continue to “Base Round” (the beginning of the ribbing section). It does not matter which repeat round you end on.

    Base Round: YUSC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the first ST of the round. (72 [78, 84, 90])

    – – – – – –

    Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the Base Round with SL STS as we go. If you need a little extra help, click here for a video tutorial on how to add ribbing at the end of a project.

    – – – – – –

    CH7.
    Row 1:     SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 6 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Base Round, the stitch on which your CH7 was built. SL ST into the next SC from Base Round. (6, plus the two slip stitches along Base Round)

    The section we just created, built on the CH7, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Base Round, SC in BLO of each of the first 5 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 5 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Base Round. (6, plus the 2 SL STS along Base Round)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Base Round, SC in BLO of each of the first 5 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)

    Rows 5-72 [78, 84, 90]: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along Base Round.

    Fasten off and use your tail to sew together the gap between the first and last rows of the ribbing, then weave in your ends.

    Done! If you’re sharing your finished hat on social media, be sure to hashtag #hylandmenshat and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Stay warm out there!

  • Malia Messy Bun Beanie

    Malia Messy Bun Beanie

    This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection (including a slouchy hat, beanie, infinity scarf, buttoned cowl and more), please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

    I got so many requests for a messy bun hat pattern last season. The problem was, I had already gone on a self-imposed maternity leave by the time the messy hat trend exploded!

    I’ve had quite a few people ask me if I believe the messy bun hat will be popular again this season, and while I don’t think it will match the absolute CRAZY levels of viral-ness it did last year, I do think that the messy bun hat is here to stay. Why? Because it’s more than just a style trend. It’s also super practical! The concept has been around for a long time, but now that a lot more people know about it, I think it will probably become a regular part of the winter accessory lineup.

    So, my first messy bun hat pattern is here! (Sorry it’s a year late.) If you’ve already made a Malia Beanie or Malia Slouch, this will be super simple for you. If you haven’t, I recommend you watch the video tutorial for those hats to get you started. The tutorial shows you step by step how to make the beanie (adult large size) but all we’re doing to convert it to a messy bun beanie is skipping straight to Round 3 and working it around a hair elastic. Everything else is the same!

    Here are a few more photos. Scroll down for the free pattern!

    Free Printable Tags

    I made some cute printable tags for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting this hat, a tag or wrap just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. I included a wraparound label (shown in the photo) as well as a smaller tag that can be attached to a piece of decorative string wrapped around your finished product, by punching a hole through the corner and threading the string through before tying a bow to secure. Print on cardstock for best results!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA MESSY BUN HAT (2 SIZES)

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Finished Size: 8.25″ tall x 18.5″ around (teen / adult small), and 8.25″ tall x 20″ around (adult medium / adult large).

    Yarn: #4 aran weight. Individual yardage listed under each size in the pattern. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Faded Porch Swing.”  (See Malia CAL Homepage for substitution suggestions.)

    Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Gauge: The importance of checking your gauge for this project cannot be understated. Because of the construction of the hat, it is difficult to adjust mid-pattern if you discover it is turning out too large. Even if you typically do not complete gauge checks, I strongly encourage you to do so this time. To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.

    Pattern for Gauge:
    CH17.
    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, hair elastic

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:
    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rounds and rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) Click here to view a video tutorial for the beanie version of this pattern.
    (4) Individual instructions are listed first, followed by seaming instructions at the bottom, which is the same for both sizes.

    SIZE: TEEN / ADULT SMALL

    Finished Size: 8.25″ tall x 18.5″ around
    Yarn Total: 150-160 yards

    INSTRUCTIONS:

    Base Round: Attach yarn to hair elastic and secure with a knot. Work 72SC around the hair elastic. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (72)

    Your elastic will be VERY crowded with stitches and will be wavy. This is good! We are now switching to vertical rows, and working them one by one using the stitches we just crocheted around the elastic. The pattern refers to the stitches around the elastic as the “base round”.

    Row 1: CH29. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. SL ST to the base of the CH29, then SL ST to the next ST along the Base Round. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along the Base Round, SC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 11 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 empty STS along the Base Round. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along the Base Round, HDC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 22 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 empty STS along the Base Round. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along the Base Round, SC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 11 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 empty STS along the Base Round. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along the Base Round, HDC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 22 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 empty STS along the Base Round. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Rows 10-65: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 7 more times.

    Rows 66-72: Repeat Rows 2-8.

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the seam.

    SIZE: ADULT MEDIUM / LARGE

    Finished Size: 8.25″ tall x 20″ around
    Yarn Total: 190-200 yards

    INSTRUCTIONS:

    Base Round: Attach yarn to hair elastic and secure with a knot. Work 84SC around the hair elastic. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (84)

    Your elastic will be VERY crowded with stitches and will be wavy. This is good! We are now switching to vertical rows, and working them one by one using the stitches we just crocheted around the elastic. The pattern refers to the stitches around the elastic as the “base round”.

    Row 1: CH29. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. SL ST to the base of the CH29, then SL ST to the next ST along the Base Round. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along the Base Round, SC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 11 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 empty STS along the Base Round. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along the Base Round, HDC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 22 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 empty STS along the Base Round. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along the Base Round, SC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 11 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 empty STS along the Base Round. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along the Base Round, HDC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 22 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 empty STS along the Base Round. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Rows 10-81: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 9 more times.

    Rows 82-84: Repeat Rows 2-4.

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the seam.

    SEAMING

    Turn hat inside out. Thread your yarn needle onto the long finishing tail and sew the first 6 stitches (the ribbed band) together, stitch by stitch. The following photo is a screenshot from the video tutorial:

    Once you finish with the ribbed section, sew the rest of the seam up, stitch by stitch, putting your needle through the 3rd loop only of the final row of HDCs and across to the corresponding stitch on the other side of the seam. This will ensure that the seam creates a row of visible top loops to match the other 3rd loop rows around the hat. The following photo is a screenshot from the video tutorial, with the 3rd loops highlighted:

    Fasten off and weave in your ends.

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #maliamessybunhat, and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Hope you enjoyed it!

     

  • Malia Newborn Beanie

    Malia Newborn Beanie

    This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection (including an adult beanie, slouchy hat, infinity scarf, and buttoned cowl), please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

    Is there anything cuter than a little newborn beanie? Every time I make one, I think to myself, were my boys’ heads really this small once? (Actually, probably not. My kids all had big heads!)

    Unlike the rest of the Malia Crochet-Along Patterns, which used Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic yarn, for this pattern I used Cascade Longwood which is one of my all-time favorite yarns. The Rustic Romantic is gorgeous but it has hemp in it, and that makes it not quite soft enough for a newborn head. Longwood on the other hand is smooth and soft and has beautiful stitch definition, and it washes up great. I made my son’s baby blanket from it and it is holding up beautifully!

    There is endless debate about whether or not pom poms (or buttons, or ribbons) should be used on a baby’s hat. My thought is, a newborn should never be left unattended ever, unless she is in the safety of her crib, and she wouldn’t be wearing a winter beanie during nap time, anyway! I don’t even leave hats on my babies in their car seats, because hell hath no fury like that of a baby who has just pulled his hat over his eyes and is out of reach of his driving mama. Of course, it’s up to you whether you are comfortable attaching a pom pom to this hat, and I think it’s pretty adorable either way.

    This hat uses my special faux-cinched, top-down, vertical method – meaning you begin the hat in rounds, then switch to vertical rows, and you end up with a beautiful vertical design without having to sew it shut at the end. This method produces a nice even cinch at the top. At first the method might seem confusing, but many who have tried it have ended up falling in love with it! There is a video tutorial for the adult version of this beanie that may help you as you start the hat. Your numbers will be different, but the construction is the same.

    Free Printable Tags

    I made some cute printable tags for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting this hat, a tag or wrap just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. I included a wraparound label as well as a smaller tag (shown in photo below) that can be attached to a piece of decorative string wrapped around your finished product, by punching a hole through the corner and threading the string through before tying a bow to secure. Print on cardstock for best results!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA NEWBORN BEANIE

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Finished Size: 5″ tall x 12″ circumference (will fit a 0-3 month old baby with an average 13-15″ head)

    Yarn: 80 yards of #4 aran weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Cascade Longwood.

    Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Gauge: The importance of checking your gauge for this project cannot be understated. Because of the construction of the hat, it is difficult to adjust mid-pattern if you discover it is turning out too large. Even if you typically do not complete gauge checks, I strongly encourage you to do so this time. To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.

    Pattern for Gauge:
    CH17.
    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, optional small faux fur pom pom

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:
    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rounds and rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) Click here to view a video tutorial for the adult version of this pattern.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To Begin: Make a magic circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 8SC in MC, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (8)

    Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (16)

    Round 3: CH1. 3SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (48)

    At this point you should have a very wavy circle. We are now switching to vertical rows, and working them one by one using the stitches from Round 3.

    Row 1: CH19, turn. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH; row is complete. Being sure that the wrong side of the circle is facing you (because we turned), SL ST to the base of the CH19, then SL ST to the next ST along Round 3. (18 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 14 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (18)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (18 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 14 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (18)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (18 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 14 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (18)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (18 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 14 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (18)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (18 + 2 SL STS)

    Rows 10-41: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 4 more times.

    Rows 42-48: Repeat Rows 2-8.

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the seam.

    SEAMING

    Turn hat inside out. Close up the magic circle and weave in that end only. Then, thread your yarn needle onto the long finishing tail and sew the first 4 stitches (the ribbed band) together, stitch by stitch. The following photo is a screenshot from the adult version’s video tutorial:

    Once you finish with the ribbed section, sew the rest of the seam up, stitch by stitch, putting your needle through the 3rd loop of the final row of HDCs and across to the corresponding stitch on the other side of the seam. This will ensure that the seam creates a row of visible top loops to match the other 3rd loop rows around the hat. The following photo is a screenshot from the adult version’s video tutorial, with the 3rd loops highlighted:

    Weave in your tail and cut off the excess. Attach a pom pom (optional.)

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #malianewbornbeanie, and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Malia Slouch (2 sizes)

    Malia Slouch (2 sizes)

    This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection (including a beanie, infinity scarf, and buttoned cowl), please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

    The second pattern in the Malia CAL is a slouchy version of the Malia Beanie! As with the beanie, I used a unique blend of the top-down method and the vertical method for constructing this hat, resulting in what I think is the best of both worlds – a cute vertical design and a secure cinched top. It’s a little confusing to explain, but I’ve made a video tutorial for both patterns in case you need a little help! The video tutorial follows the large pattern size, but all you need to do differently for the smaller size is follow the first 3 rounds from the “Teen / Adult Small” pattern and then continue on with the video instructions.

    Free Printable Tags

    I made some cute printable tags for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting this hat, a tag or wrap just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. I included a wraparound label as well as a smaller tag (shown in the photo) that can be attached to a piece of decorative string wrapped around your finished product, by punching a hole through the corner and threading the string through before tying a bow to secure. Print on cardstock for best results!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA SLOUCH (2 SIZES)

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Finished Size: 9.5″ tall x 18.5″ around (teen / adult small), and 9.5″ tall x 20″ around (adult medium / adult large)

    Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: #4 aran weight. Individual yardage listed under each size in the pattern. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Antique Iron.” (See Malia CAL Homepage for substitution suggestions.)

    Gauge: The importance of checking your gauge for this project cannot be understated. Because of the construction of the hat, it is difficult to adjust mid-pattern if you discover it is turning out too large. Even if you typically do not complete gauge checks, I strongly encourage you to do so this time. To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.

    Pattern for Gauge:
    CH17.
    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, optional faux fur pom pom

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)
    …..

    Special Stitches:
    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rounds and rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) Click here to view a video tutorial.
    (4) Individual instructions are listed first, followed by seaming instructions at the bottom, which is the same for both sizes.

    SIZE: TEEN / ADULT SMALL

    Finished Size: 9.5″ tall x 18.5″ around
    Yarn Total: 240-260 yards

    To Begin: Make a magic circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 12SC in MC, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (12)

    Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (24)

    Round 3: CH1. 3SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (72)

    At this point you should have a very wavy circle. We are now switching to vertical rows, and working them one by one using the stitches from Round 3.

    Row 1: CH35, turn. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH; row is complete. Being sure that the wrong side of the circle is facing you (because we turned), SL ST to the base of the CH35, then SL ST to the next ST along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 28 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 14 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 28 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 28 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 28 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 14 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 28 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 28 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Rows 10-65: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 7 more times.

    Rows 66-72: Repeat Rows 2-8.

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the seam.

    SIZE: ADULT MEDIUM / LARGE

    Finished Size: 9.5″ tall x 20″ around
    Yarn Total: 260-275 yards

    To Begin: Make a magic circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 14SC in MC, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (14)

    Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (28)

    Round 3: CH1. 3SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (84)

    At this point you should have a very wavy circle. We are now switching to vertical rows, and working them one by one using the stitches from Round 3.

    Row 1: CH35, turn. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH; row is complete. Being sure that the wrong side of the circle is facing you (because we turned), SL ST to the base of the CH35, then SL ST to the next ST along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 28 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 14 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 28 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 28 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 28 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 14 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 28 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (34)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 28 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (34 + 2 SL STS)

    Rows 10-81: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 9 more times

    Rows 82-84: Repeat Rows 2-4

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the seam.

    SEAMING

    Turn hat inside out. Close up the magic circle and weave in that end only. Then, thread your yarn needle onto the long finishing tail and sew the first 6 stitches (the ribbed band) together, stitch by stitch. You can find more details on that step in the video tutorial:

    Once you finish with the ribbed section, sew the rest of the seam up, stitch by stitch, putting your needle through the 3rd loop of the final row of HDCs and across to the corresponding stitch on the other side of the seam. This will ensure that the seam creates a row of visible top loops to match the other 3rd loop rows around the hat. You can find more details on that step in the video tutorial:

    Weave in your tail and cut off the excess. Attach a pom pom (optional.)

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #maliaslouch, and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Malia Beanie (2 Sizes)

    Malia Beanie (2 Sizes)

    This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection (including a slouchy hat, infinity scarf, and buttoned cowl), please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

    Winter is coming, and that means… hat season! I love hat season, especially on school mornings, because between getting the kindergartener and the first grader ready for school and feeding and dressing the baby, I never have time to do much more than throw my hair up in a pony tail. (Yes, I could wake up earlier, but I value my sleep.) But when it’s cold enough to switch out the hair tie for a hat, a pretty winter beanie adds a little cuteness to the hot mess look, amiright?

    I experimented with this design quite a bit because I knew I wanted it to be worked vertically to achieve the design I had in my head, but honestly, I’m not a huge fan of the work-flat-and-sew-to-cinch method. I’ve used it in a handful of my patterns because it’s the only way I knew how to achieve the vertical design, but sometimes I feel like I can’t close the top securely enough and the cinch often looks a bit unbalanced. So after some thinking, I thought up another method (which I’m sure has been done before by others) to combine my favorite top-down method with a vertical design and I’m really happy with how it turned out. It’s a little confusing to explain, but I’ve made a video tutorial for this pattern in case you need a little help! The video tutorial follows the large pattern size, but all you need to do differently for the smaller size is follow the first 3 rounds from the “Teen / Adult Small” pattern and then continue on with the video instructions.

    Free Printable Tags

    I made some cute printable tags for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting this hat, a tag or wrap just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. I included a wraparound label (shown in the photo) as well as a smaller tag that can be attached to a piece of decorative string wrapped around your finished product, by punching a hole through the corner and threading the string through before tying a bow to secure. Print on cardstock for best results!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA BEANIE (2 SIZES)

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Finished Size: 8.25″ tall x 18.5″ around (teen / adult small), and 8.25″ tall x 20″ around (adult medium / adult large)

    Yarn: #4 aran weight. Individual yardage listed under each size in the pattern. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Faded Porch Swing.”  (See Malia CAL Homepage for substitution suggestions.)

    Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Gauge: The importance of checking your gauge for this project cannot be understated. Because of the construction of the hat, it is difficult to adjust mid-pattern if you discover it is turning out too large. Even if you typically do not complete gauge checks, I strongly encourage you to do so this time. To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.

    Pattern for Gauge:
    CH17.
    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, optional faux fur pom pom

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:
    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rounds and rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) Click here to view a video tutorial for this pattern.
    (4) Individual instructions are listed first, followed by seaming instructions at the bottom, which is the same for both sizes.

    SIZE: TEEN / ADULT SMALL

    Finished Size: 8.25″ tall x 18.5″ around
    Yarn Total: 160-175 yards

    To Begin: Make a magic circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 12SC in MC, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (12)

    Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (24)

    Round 3: CH1. 3SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (72)

    At this point you should have a very wavy circle. We are now switching to vertical rows, and working them one by one using the stitches from Round 3.

    Row 1: CH29, turn. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH; row is complete. Being sure that the wrong side of the circle is facing you (because we turned), SL ST to the base of the CH29, then SL ST to the next ST along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 11 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 22 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 22 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 11 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 22 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 22 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Rows 10-65: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 7 more times.

    Rows 66-72: Repeat Rows 2-8.

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the seam.

    SIZE: ADULT MEDIUM / LARGE

    Finished Size: 8.25″ tall x 20″ around
    Yarn Total: 190-210 yards
    Note: This size was originally published as the only available.

    To Begin: Make a magic circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 14SC in MC, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (14)

    Round 2: CH1. 2SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (28)

    Round 3: CH1. 3SC in each ST around, join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (84)

    At this point you should have a very wavy circle. We are now switching to vertical rows, and working them one by one using the stitches from Round 3.

    Row 1: CH29, turn. SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH; row is complete. Being sure that the wrong side of the circle is facing you (because we turned), SL ST to the base of the CH29, then SL ST to the next ST along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 11 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 22 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 22 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. Skipping over the CH1 and the 2 SL STS along Round 3, SC in each of the first 22 STS of the previous row. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 11 times; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. HDC in each of the first 22 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the final ST. (28)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 22 STS; row is complete. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Round 3. (28 + 2 SL STS)

    Rows 10-81: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 9 more times

    Rows 82-84: Repeat Rows 2-4

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the seam.

    SEAMING

    Turn hat inside out. Close up the magic circle and weave in that end only. Then, thread your yarn needle onto the long finishing tail and sew the first 6 stitches (the ribbed band) together, stitch by stitch. The following photo is a screenshot from the video tutorial:

    Once you finish with the ribbed section, sew the rest of the seam up, stitch by stitch, putting your needle through the 3rd loop of the final row of HDCs and across to the corresponding stitch on the other side of the seam. This will ensure that the seam creates a row of visible top loops to match the other 3rd loop rows around the hat. The following photo is a screenshot from the video tutorial, with the 3rd loops highlighted:

    Weave in your tail and cut off the excess. Attach a pom pom (optional.)

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #maliabeanie, and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Landon Slouch and Scarf (Adult and Child Sizes)

    Landon Slouch and Scarf (Adult and Child Sizes)

    Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample.

    Have you used Lion Brand’s Scarfie yarn yet? It is sooo soft and fluffy. My first experience with it was when I designed the Macchiato Slouch and I always knew I’d come back to it again someday. Now there are even more combos to choose from then there were back then, and I am just obsessed with this Mint & Silver! I paired it with Wool-Ease Gray Heather (for the band of the hat, because I wanted to make sure the entire band was one solid color) and it was a perfect match.

    I designed this set as a part of Lion Brand’s “12 Days of Christmas” promotion, and knew you guys would be excited to have it available in both adult and child sizes. You can even grab the kit on lionbrand.com, which comes with the pattern and enough yarn to make two sets – one for you and one for your mini-me!

    The hat is made up mostly of mini bean stitches, which I love because they give basically the same look as a regular bean stitch but use less yarn.

    The finished products are so fluffy and soft! I love fluffy accessories. Besides the obvious fact that they are soft on your skin, they also tend to lay really nicely. This infinity scarf was so easy to style on my model because of its light, airy feel.

    Can I also give a shoutout to my models? Because seriously, they rocked this shoot. You’d never know they had just met, like, two and a half minutes before this photo. 🙂

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    LANDON SLOUCH AND SCARF (ADULT AND CHILD SIZES)

    Difficulty: Easy

    Hooks: K (6.5mm) and H (5.0mm)

    Yarn:
    3 skeins of Lion Brand Scarfie in “Mint/Silver” (#826-217)
    1 skein of Lion Brand Wool-Ease in “Grey Heather” (#620-151)

    Gauge: With larger hook and Scarfie yarn, 4 increase rounds of HDC = 4” diameter. (Begin first round with 10 HDC in a magic circle, then increase each round for a total of 4 rounds.) Use whatever hook size you need to obtain the correct gauge. This guage can be used for all 4 patterns.

    You’ll Also Need: Yarn needle, scissors, pom maker (optional)

    Abbreviations Used:
    MC     (magic circle – tutorial here)
       ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
       SL ST (slip stitch)
       SK (skip)
       CH (chain)
       SC (single crochet)
       BLO (back loop only)
       MBS (mini bean stitch – see “Special Stitch”)

    Special Stitch – Mini Bean Stitch (MBS):
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through (2 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over, pull through (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 4 loops, chain 1 to close stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of top loops, it counts as 2 stitches in final round counts.)

    Notes:
    (1) Patterns are written in American Standard terms.
    (2) Any CH1s at the beginning of rounds do not count as stitches.
    (3) All patterns are designed in a continuous spiral for a seamless finished look. Do not join, chain up or turn unless instructed.
    (4) For the finished measurements of the hats, height is measured from the bottom of the band to the top of the body, pom not included. Width is measured across the bottom of the body of the hat, at the point where the body and the band meet. (Band of hat is smaller but will stretch to fit.)
    (5) The poms on the hats are optional. You will have more than enough yarn left over to make two poms in either Scarfie (shown on the child-size sample) or Wool-Ease (shown on the adult-size sample).
    (6) Due to the nature of the ombre yarn used, no two hats or scarves will look the same.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    LANDON SLOUCH HAT (TEEN / ADULT SMALL)

    Finished Size: 9” tall x 10” wide
    Yarn:     Lion Brand Scarfie (130 yards) and Wool-Ease (45 yards)

    With larger hook and Scarfie yarn,
    Round 1: 10 HDC in MC. (10)

    Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around. (20)

    Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around. (40)

    Round 4: (2 HDC in each of the next 7 STS, HDC in next ST, 2 HDC in each of the next 7 STS, HDC in next ST, 2 HDC in each of the next 3 STS, HDC in next ST) 2 times. (74)

    Rounds 5-20: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (74)

    Round 21: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round. (74)

    Switch to smaller hook and Wool-Ease yarn. Fasten off Scarfie yarn.

    Round 22: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round. (74)

    – – – – – –

    Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to Round 22 (the final round of the hat) with SL STS as we go. If you need a little extra help, click here for a video tutorial on how to add ribbing at the end of a project.

    – – – – – –

    CH9.
    Row 1:     SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 7 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Round 22, the stitch on which your CH9 was built. SL ST into the next SC from Round 22. (8, plus the two slip stitches along Round 22)

    The section we just created, built on the CH9, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 22, SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 7 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Round 22. (8, plus the 2 SL STS along Round 22)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 22, SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

    Rows 5-74: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along Round 22.

    Fasten off and use your tail to sew together the gap between the first and last rows of the ribbing, then weave in your ends.

    Optional: Use a large Clover Pom Maker to make a pom pom (or make one by hand) and attach it to the top of the hat.

    LANDON SLOUCH HAT (CHILD)

    Finished Size: 8.5” tall x 9” wide
    Yarn:     Lion Brand Scarfie (105 yards) and Wool-Ease (30 yards)

    With larger hook and Scarfie yarn,
    Round 1:     10 HDC in MC. (10)

    Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around. (20)

    Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around. (40)

    Round 4: 2 HDC in each of the next 2 STS, HDC in each of the next 2 STS. (2 HDC in each of the next 3 STS, HDC in next ST) 4 times. 2 HDC in each of the next 2 STS, HDC in each of the next 2 STS. (2 HDC in each of the next 3 STS, HDC in next ST) 4 times. (68)

    Rounds 5-19: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (68)

    Round 20: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round. (68)

    Switch to smaller hook and Wool-Ease yarn. Fasten off Scarfie yarn.

    Round 21: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round. (68)

    – – – – – –

    Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to Round 21 (the final round of the hat) with SL STS as we go. If you need a little extra help, click here for a video tutorial on how to add ribbing at the end of a project.

    – – – – – –

    CH7.
    Row 1:     SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 5 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Round 21, the stitch on which your CH7 was built. SL ST into the next SC from Round 21. (6, plus the two slip stitches along Round 21)

    The section we just created, built on the CH7, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 21, SC in BLO of each of the first 5 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 5 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Round 21. (6, plus the 2 SL STS along Round 21)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 21, SC in BLO of each of the first 5 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)

    Rows 5-68: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along Round 21.

    Fasten off and use your tail to sew together the gap between the first and last rows of the ribbing, then weave in your ends.

    Optional: Use a large Clover Pom Maker to make a pom pom (or make one by hand) and attach it to the top of the hat.

    LANDON SCARF (TEEN / ADULT SMALL)

    Finished Size: 6.5” wide x 60” around
    Yarn:     Lion Brand Scarfie (310 yards)
    Notes:
    (1) For this pattern, use the larger of the two hooks (6.5mm, or whichever one you used to complete your gauge swatch).
    (2) Working into the back bump of the starting chain during Round 1 will help to keep the scarf from curling. It is a bit slower than working into one of the top loops, but worth it in the end.

    To Begin: CH192. Join with a SL ST, being careful not to twist the chain. (192)

    Round 1: CH1. Working in the back bumps of the starting chain, MBS in first ST, SK next ST. (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (192)

    Rounds 2-18: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (192)

    Round 19: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. SL ST into the first ST of the round. (192)

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

    LANDON SCARF (CHILD)

    Finished Size: 5” wide x 46” around
    Yarn:     Lion Brand Scarfie (180 yards)
    Notes:
    (1) For this pattern, use the larger of the two hooks (6.5mm, or whichever one you used to complete your gauge swatch).
    (2) Working into the back bump of the starting chain during Round 1 will help to keep the scarf from curling. It is a bit slower than working into one of the top loops, but worth it in the end.

    To Begin: CH 148. Join with a SL ST, being careful not to twist the chain. (148)

    Round 1: CH1. Working in the back bumps of the starting chain, MBS in first ST, SK next ST. (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (148)

    Rounds 2-13: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (148)

    Round 14: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. SL ST into the first ST of the round. (148)

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #landonslouch and #landonscarf, and tag me @yarnandchai. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Barista Slouch Hat

    Barista Slouch Hat

    Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample.

    It’s official… the Fall ’17/Winter ’18 season has begun and I am sooooooooo excited! Granted I’m a little behind on life being that I spent my summer cuddling an adorable little baby boy instead of prepping my upcoming collection, but whatev. I’m ready to dive in now, and let’s all hope and pray that Henry will start taking longer naps so I can get some things done.

    I’m debuting the season with a hat pattern that I just love. This season I’m experimenting with different shapes of slouch, and this pattern has a rounder, more “droopy” look to it than my patterns from previous seasons. It’s worked from the top-down but uses the faux-cinched method I tend to favor, but amped up a bit. We’re cramming so many stitches into those first few rounds that you might be thinking “yeah right, Rebecca” as you’re getting started, but trust me, just get through those first rounds and it will get easier and the finished look will be so worth it.

    For this pattern I used Lion Brand Yarn’s Vanna’s Style, a #3 weight (not to be confused with Vanna’s Choice, which is a #4 aran). It has beautiful stitch definition and drape which is perfect for this hat.

    My model is rocking this hat with her natural waves, but it would also look gorgeous over cascading curls or even a loose braid.

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    BARISTA SLOUCH HAT

    add-to-ravelry-favorites

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Finished Size: 9.5″ tall x 9″ wide at bottom of hat (when laid flat) and 14″ wide at widest point (when laid flat).

    Hook: G (4.0 mm)

    Yarn: Approximately 290 yards of Vanna’s Style, a #3 light weight yarn by Lion Brand. Sample shown in “Silver”.

    Gauge: 6 increase rounds (beginning with 10 HDC) = 3.75″.

    Pattern for Gauge:
    Round 1: 10HDC in MC; join. (10)
    Round 2: CH1, 2HDC in each ST around, join. (20)
    Round 3: CH1, (2HDC, HDC) around, join. (30)
    Round 4: CH1, (2HDC, HDC, HDC) around, join. (40)
    Round 5: CH1, (2HDC, HDC, HDC, HDC) around, join. (50)
    Round 6: CH1, (2HDC, HDC, HDC, HDC, HDC) around, join. (60)

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker

    Abbreviations Used:
       MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    BLO (back loop only)
    MBS (mini bean stitch – see “Special Stitch”)

    Special Stitch – Mini Bean Stitch (MBS): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through (2 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over, pull through (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 4 loops, chain 1 to close stitch. (Please note that this CH1 does count as a stitch in the final stitch counts of each round; so each MBS you complete will count for 2 stitches.)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round until the band. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds and do not join or turn unless instructed to do so.
    (3) Any CH1s at the beginning of rounds do not count as stitches and are not included in the stitch count.
    (4) Because of the “chain 1 to close stitch” at the end of the instructions for the MBS, each MBS will count as 2 stitches in the final stitch counts for each round – one for the bean, and one for the CH1.)

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    THE PATTERN

    To begin: Make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).

    Round 1: 16 HDC in MC. (16)

    Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around. (32)

    Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around. (64)

    Round 4: MBS in each ST around. (128)

    Rounds 5-32: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (128)

    Round 33: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to 1st ST of round. (128)

    Round 34: CH1. SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 2 STS. (SC2TOG in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST. (96)

    Round 35-36: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST. (96)

    Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat (Round 36) with SL STS as we go. If you need a little extra help, click here for a video tutorial on how to add ribbing at the end of a project.

    CH9.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 7 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Round 36, the stitch on which your CH9 was built. SL ST into the next SC from Round 36. (8, plus the two slip stitches along Round 36)

    The section we just created, built on the CH9, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 36, SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 7 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Round 36. (8, plus the 2 SL STS along Round 36)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 36, SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

    Rows 5-96: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along Round 36.

    Fasten off and use your tail to sew together the first and last rows of the ribbing, then weave in your ends.

  • Annabelle Slouch Hat

    Annabelle Slouch Hat

    Thank you to Chandi at Expression Fiber Arts for providing the yarn for this sample!

    This season has been all about stepping out of my comfort zone with my yarn choices. One thing I’ve never done, until now, is get my hands on hand-dyed yarn. But when Expression Fiber Arts showed up on my Facebook feed one day, I was captivated by the gorgeousness of the yarn. I knew I had to try it! Chandi was gracious enough to send me some Superwash Merino Silk Pearlescent Worsted to play with, and there are a few things I noticed right away when I held it in my hands:

    1. “Pearlescent” is a perfect description for this yarn. I wondered, when I saw the photos on the web site, if it really would look as shiny in real life. It does! And while cheaper yarns tend to sacrifice stitch definition for sheen, this yarn doesn’t at all.

    2. It’s soft! Like, super soft. But sturdy.

    3. The colors are incredible. I chose a colorway that isn’t available anymore (I think I grabbed the last one, sorry!) that is a mixture of the palest pink and icy blue, but if you look on the web site, you’ll see that there are plenty of totally gorgeous colorways to choose from!

    Now, you know me; I love my big box store yarns, and they’re what I typically use; because not only am I on a budget, but I know many of you are, too. But, I also know that there is a whole world of absolutely stunning yarns out there that are worth exploring, especially for those super special projects. Don’t be afraid to branch out; you might just discover something beautiful!

    After I finished the pattern for this hat, I felt like it needed a little contrast. So, I added a pom pom with some white unlabeled yarn from my stash. The pom pom is totally optional and is not included in the yardage count.

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    ANNABELLE SLOUCH HAT

    add-to-ravelry-favorites

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 9″ tall x 9.5″ wide (when laid flat)

    Hook: I (5.50mm) and G (4.25mm)

    Yarn: Approximately 185 yards (not including optional pom pom) of Superwash Merino Silk Pearlescent Worsted, a #4 weight medium yarn by Expression Fiber Arts.

    Gauge: With larger hook, 16 rows of 8 (skip 1 ST, SC+HDC in next ST) combos = 4″ square

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker

    Abbreviations Used:
       MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST     (stitch)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    SC+HDC (this just means to put 1 SC and 1 HDC in the same ST)
    BLO (back loop only)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round until the band. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds and do not join or turn unless instructed to do so.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    THE PATTERN

    To begin: With larger hook, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).

    Round 1: 10 HDC in MC. (10)

    Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around. (20)

    Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around. (40)

    Round 4: 2 HDC in each ST around. (80)

    Round 5: (SC+HDC in next ST, SK next ST) around. (80)

    Rounds 6-26: Repeat Round 5.

    Round 27: (SC+HDC in next ST, SK next ST) 39 times; 2 STS remain. SC in next ST; SL ST next (final) ST. (80)

    Round 28: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (80)

    Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to the final round of the hat with SL STS as we go.

    Switch to G Hook.

    Row 1: CH7. SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in remaining 5 CHS. SL ST in next 2 SCs of Round 28. (6, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SL ST in next 2 SCs of Round 28. (6, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

    Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (80 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to whip stitch the first and last rows together. Weave in all ends.

    Attach pom pom (optional).

  • Elena Slouch

    Elena Slouch

    November is coming to a close, and yesterday during our family Thanksgiving at my parent’s house, I was able to snatch my nieces up for one last photo shoot for the remaining patterns in the Little Monkeys Crochet Fall 2016 collection. (Speaking of thankfulness – I am so thankful for those girls! They are beautiful inside and out, and they’re always willing to play along when I need something photographed.)

    This slouch hat pattern might just have stolen the top spot as my favorite pattern of the season. The combination of the lightweight yarn in the perfect neutral color, the rustic buttons, and the faux fur pom made it all come together so well. This hat is a bit more unique than all of my previous slouchy releases in the way it’s built, so it was a fun challenge to figure out the best way to write it all out for you.

    Elena Slouch Hat Crochet Pattern | Free button slouchy hat crochet pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    As you may have guessed if you’ve been following me for a while, I used Cascade Yarns’ Longwood Sport for this pattern. It’s probably safe to say I’m addicted to this yarn, because whenever I finish a pattern with it, if I have some left over, I immediately start dreaming up a new pattern with the remaining yarn knowing full well that I’ll have to go order more in order to finish it. It’s a vicious cycle, folks, and I can’t escape it, and I don’t really want to. (I buy mine from Jimmy Beans Wool because their shipping prices rock.)

    By now you might be asking, hey Rebecca, is that a matching scarf I see in your photos? Why yes, it is! Click here to view the Elena Scarf in its entirety and make one for yourself to go with your brand new slouch.

    Elena Slouch Hat Crochet Pattern | Free button slouchy hat crochet pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    ELENA SLOUCH

    add-to-ravelry-favorites

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Finished Size: 9.5″ tall x 9.5″ wide (when laid flat)

    Hooks: H (5.00mm) and G (4.25mm)

    Yarn: Approximately 265 yards of Cascade Yarns’ Longwood Sport (that’s just about a full skein). Longwood Sport is a #3 light yarn, and the color shown on the sample is “Oatmeal.”

    Gauge: With larger hook, 9 rows of 5 (SK 1, SC+HDC in next) combos = 2″ square

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 3/4″ buttons (4), faux fur pom pom (optional; mine is from Premier Yarns in “Otter”), needle and thread

    Abbreviations Used:
    MC     (magic circle – view my tutorial here)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST     (slip stitch)
    SK     (skip)
    CH     (chain)
    SC     (single crochet)
    HDC     (half double crochet)
    SC+HDC     (this just means to put 1 SC and 1 HDC in the same ST)
    BLO     (back loop only)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) I do not currently have an adaptation for a worsted weight version of this pattern.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    THE PATTERN

    To begin: Using larger hook, create a Magic Circle; CH1.

    Round 1: 10HDC in MC. Join with a SL ST to first HDC. (10)

    Round 2: CH1. 2HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first HDC. (20)

    Round 3: CH1. 2HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first HDC. (40)

    Round 4: CH1. 2HDC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first HDC. (80)

    Round 5: CH1. 2HDC in first ST, HDC in each of the next 3 STS. (2HDC in next ST, HDC in each of the next 3 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first HDC. (100)

    We are now switching to turned rows.

    Row 6: CH5, turn. SC+HDC in 3rd CH from hook. SK next CH. SC+HDC in 5th (final) CH. We are now going to begin working around the hat. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. (104)

    row6

    row6complete

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. (104)

    row7

    row7complete

    Rows 8-30: Repeat Row 7. (104)

    Note: At the end of Row 30, your hook should be on the end of the hat that does not have the extra stitches created by the CH5 from Row 6.

    Row 31: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST. Place a stitch marker in the stitch you just made (the 4th stitch of the row); we’ll reference it in the next row. Continue to (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) around. (104)

    Round 32: CH1, turn. Lay the inner edges of the hat so that they overlap, with your hook lined up with the stitch marker from Row 31, placing the edge that has the additional stitches (created by the CH5 from Row 6) underneath the opposite edge. Insert your hook into the first ST and the stitch that we marked with a stitch marker in the previous row (see photo below); make an SC in all 4 loops. Continuing to line up the overlapping stitches, SC in both layers of each of the next 3 STS. You have now sealed the bottom edge of the overlapping pieces together. Continue to SC in each ST around the rest of the hat. Join with a SL ST to first SC. (100)

    round32

    round32scing

    Creating the Band

    Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to Round 32 of the hat with SL STS as we go.

    Switch to G (4.25mm) hook.

    Row 1: CH7. SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in remaining 5 CHS. SL ST along the next 2 STS of Round 32 of the hat. (6, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 5 STS. SL ST along the next 2 STS of Round 32 of the hat. (6, plus the 2 SL STS at the base of the hat)

    Repeat Rows 2-3 all the way around the hat (100 rows). Fasten off and use your tail to carefully sew the first and last rows of the band together. Weave in all ends.

    Buttons
    Where the two edges of the hat meet and overlap, use a few ball point pins to secure them in place. Then, place and sew your buttons along the edge, being sure to position them so that your needle goes through both layers, sewing them together; when you remove the ball point pins, you want the buttons to hold the hat together on their own.

    Elena Slouch Hat Crochet Pattern | Free button slouchy hat crochet pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Attach your pom pom if desired. Done!