Category: Crochet Patterns

Americana Pillow (12″)

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!

Happy Independence Day Weekend to all my American friends! Between the fireworks and campfires, beach trips and barbecues, we definitely know how to celebrate freedom in style.

In honor of this special holiday, I’ve created this fun American flag throw pillow pattern. The front is a combination of 4 smaller squares sewn into the design of an American Flag, with assorted buttons in place of the stars. The back side has its own design:

Don’t worry if you don’t have time to get yours done for the 4th; Americana is in style all year round!

The Yarn

Before we get into the pattern, though, let me talk about this yarn. I used the brand new Vanna’s Style (from Lion Brand), which is a DK (that’s a #3 weight) yarn. When I first heard that Lion Brand was debuting a DK version of Vanna’s Choice, I couldn’t contain my excitement. And when my first skeins came in the mail, I was completely blown away. Seriously, guys — I have never, ever been this excited about a new yarn. It is so soft! And you get 254 yards in a skein, which for a DK weight especially is a great amount. The stitch definition is gorgeous and crocheting with it is easy peasy. All I can say is, get ready for fall and winter, because you’ll definitely be seeing lots of new Little Monkeys patterns with my new favorite yarn.

I haven’t found Vanna’s Style in any of my local stores yet (it really is brand new), but you can always purchase it direct from Lion Brand!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

AMERICANA PILLOW

Level: Easy but involved

Size: Fits a standard 12″ square pillow insert

Hook: E (3.50mm); use whatever hook you need to match gauge.

Gauge: 6 rows of 8 HRDC = 2″ square

Yarn: About 600 yards of Vanna’s Style yarn from Lion Brand. (Vanna’s Style is a #3 DK weight yarn.) I used Red, Ecru, and Navy (less than 1 skein of each).

You’ll also need: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, assorted small buttons in shades of cream/ivory, needle and thread for sewing on buttons, 12″ square throw pillow insert

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HbDC (herringbone double crochet; see “Special Stitch” below)

Special Stitch:
HbDC – Herringbone Double Crochet. (If the instructions below are unclear, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here.)

HbDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through first loop on hook. Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over again and pull the loop through both loops on the hook.

Additional Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1/CH2 at the beginning of rows do not count as stitches.
(3) Gauge is important in this pattern. It is not important to use the same hook size as I did; it is very important to choose a hook that allows you to match the gauge listed.
(4) Regarding the front side of the pillow, the red and white striped squares: instead of edging them in all red or all ecru (ivory), I chose to edge mine in both colors, alternating my yarn all the way around the square according to what color stripe I was edging. This may seem like overkill, but the difference in the finished look of the pillow was striking. When I first edged them in the ivory color all the way around, it looked significantly more sloppy. I highly recommend you alternate the colors, as I think you’ll be happier with the professionalism of the finished product.

PATTERN

FRONT SIDE, RED AND WHITE STRIPED SQUARES (MAKE 3)

Finished squares should measure 5.75″ across including edging.

To begin:
With RED, CH24.

Row 1: HbDC in 3rd CH from hook and in each CH across. (22)
Row 2: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (22)
Row 3: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (22)
Row 4: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (22)

Switch to ECRU.

Row 5-8: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (22)

Switch to RED.

Rows 9-12: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (22)

Switch to ECRU.

Rows 13-16: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (22)

Fasten off. To weave in ends, let’s determine which side of the square will be the front. If you look at both sides of a square, you’ll notice they are slightly different at their color changes; one side will have a nice definitive color change (albeit slightly jagged), and the other side will show slight overlap at the color changes, where the Ecru may show through the Red stitches a bit or vice versa. Use the side with the nice clear color change as the front of your square, and weave your ends into the backside.

Edging

There are 2 important things to understand about edging these squares. This may sound a little confusing, but hang with me here and use the photo below to clarify what I’m saying. (1) We need to edge these squares nice and evenly, with 22SC around each side of the square. This is easy to do with the top and bottom of the square, but takes a little planning with the left and right edges since there are no evenly-placed stitches to work into. To get 22SC along those left and right edges, we’re going to put 6SC in each Red section, and 5SC in each Ecru section (6+5+6+5=22). (2) As mentioned in the Notes section above, we are edging these squares with alternating Red and Ecru, because the finished look will be much nicer. Yes, it means a few more ends to weave in, but trust me; it will look better. If you need help with switching colors in the middle of a row, Moogly has a great video tutorial here.

So, keeping in mind the explanations above, we’re going to put a nice edging on these squares. We’ve already determined which side of the squares will be the front, so lay a square in front of you with the front side facing you. Attach RED to the rightmost corner of the top Red stripe; CH1. Put 6SC along the short side of that stripe. CH2 (to turn the corner), and SC in each ST along the long side of the Red stripe (22SC). CH2 again, and put 6SC evenly along the remaining edge of that stripe. Switch to ECRU and put 5SC along the short edge of that stripe. Switch back to RED and put 6SC along the short edge of the next red stripe. Continue around the square, then join to the first SC with a SL ST.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

FRONT SIDE, BLUE SQUARE (MAKE 1)

Finished square should measure 5.75″ across including edging.

To begin:
With NAVY, CH24.

Row 1: HbDC in 3rd CH from hook and in each CH across. (22)
Rows 2-16: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (22)

Edging:
CH1, turn.

1st side: SC evenly along the first edge (22SC); CH2 to round the corner.
2nd side: Notice the horizontal “lines” that were created naturally by the stitch we used; these lines divide the square up into 9 “strips”. To evenly crochet 22SC down this side of the square, place 2SC in the first strip, 3SC in the next, 2 in the next, 3 in the next, alternating all the way down the side for a total of 22SC (2+3+2+3+2+3+2+3+2=22). Use the photo below to guide you. CH2 to round the next corner.

3rd side: SC evenly along the first edge (22SC); CH2 to round the corner.
4th side: Follow instructions for 2nd side (22SC), and CH2 to round the final corner. Join with a SL ST to the first SC.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Buttons

Arrange your buttons on the front side of the blue square and sew them on with yarn and thread. I used a tiny dab of hot glue to affix each one to the square before I sewed any of them, so that they would stay in place during the sewing process. If you don’t have a glue gun handy, you could also snap a photo of the buttons in the layout you want so that you can refer to it as you sew.

BACK SIDE (MAKE 1)

Finished square should measure 11.75″ across including edging.

To begin:
With RED, CH48.

Row 1: HbDC in 3rd CH from hook and in each CH across. (46)
Row 2: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (46)

Switch to ECRU.

Rows 3-4: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (46)

Switch to NAVY.

Rows 5-6: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. (46)

Switch to RED.

Rows 7-32: Continue this pattern, switching colors every 2 rows in a RED, ECRU, and NAVY repetition. (You will end on RED.)

Switch to ECRU.

Row 33: CH2, turn. HbDC in each ST across. Note that this is only a single row of HbDC. (46)

Fasten off RED and NAVY. Leaving ECRU attached, weave all loose ends into the backside of the square, then continue on to Edging (next).

Edging:
CH1, do not turn.

1st side: This pillow is divided into 17 stripes or color blocks (yes, we’re including that last row of HbDC in that final count, even though it’s smaller than the rest). We need to crochet 46SC evenly down this side, and we’ll do so by following a pattern of 2-3-3-3 (meaning 2SC in the first stripe, 3SC in the next, 3SC in the next, 3SC in the next, then repeat, all the way down the side). After repeating this sequence a total of 4 times, there will be 1 stripe remaining; we’ll put 2SC in that one. Use the photo below as a visual.

CH2 to round the corner.

2nd side: SC in each ST across (46). CH2 to round the corner.
3rd side: Follow the instructions for the 1st side (46). CH2 to round the corner.
4th side: SC in each ST across (46). CH2 to round the corner. Join to the first SC of Side 1 with a SL ST. Fasten off and weave in.

ASSEMBLING THE FRONT OF THE PILLOW

You should now have 5 squares:

It’s time to make them into a pillow cover!

We’ll start by assembling the front side of the pillow. Lay your squares out in front of you in the layout in which they’ll be sewn together:

We’ll begin with the top two squares. Line up the right edge of the blue square with the left edge of the striped square, and put the squares together, wrong sides touching, right sides facing outward. Attach Ecru in the top corner CH2 spaces (going through both squares) and CH1. SC in same space. SC in only the two inner loops (the ones that are touching each other) of the next ST, leaving the outer loop of each square unworked (see photo below). SC in only the two inner loops of each ST all the way across the edge of the squares. SC in last CH2 space. Do not remove your hook.

We’re going to muster up a little extra hand coordination now in order to attach the bottom two squares. Take the bottom two squares and line them up with each other in the same way you did for the top two squares. Holding the top two squares in your right hand and the bottom two in your left, SC in the top CH2 spaces of both bottom squares, essentially attaching the top two with the bottom two (see photo below).

Continue to SC in only the two inner loops along the edge of the bottom two squares. SC in last CH2 space. All four of your squares should be attached now by a vertical seam, and they should look a little like a butterfly when laid out flat:

CH1, turn. Going back over the seam you just created, SC in the samestitches you did before. Note that you are not adding a new row; you are thickening the row you already did by going over it with a 2nd layer (see photo below).

Fasten off your yarn and weave in the ends.

Next, fold the piece in half at the unseamed center, wrong sides touching, right sides facing out. Reattach Ecru in the CH2 spaces on the right edge, and follow the same instructions to seam the edges together (making sure to SC in each CH2 space, and also to SC in only the two inner loops of the rest of the stitches). Don’t forget to CH1, turn, and SC in the same stitches you did before to give the seam a 2nd layer.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Final Assembly

Hold the front and back sides of the pillow cover together, wrong sides facing each other, right sides facing outward. Attach Ecru in the CH2 space of one of the corners, CH1, and SC in same space. SC around 3 sides of the squares, putting (SC, CH1, SC) in each CH2 corner space. Place pillow insert inside cover and continue to SC along the 4th side, closing the pillow inside. When you get to the corner in which you started, SC and CH1, then SL ST to the very first SC you completed. Fasten off and weave in ends.

PATTERN FAQS

I am already anticipating some of the questions I’ll get about this pattern, so I’m going to answer them here. I’ll add other questions and answers as they come.

Q. Did you carry your yarn on the striped sections, or fasten off and reattach each time?
A. I started out fastening off, but did switch to carrying. It really depends on what you’re most comfortable with. As long as you’re careful to not let the carried yarn pull on the edges, and you know how to hide it when you edge your squares and keep it concealed with you sew the pillow together, you’ll be fine if you carry it.

Q. Do I have to edge the red & white striped squares in both colors, or can I just edge them all in ecru (ivory)?
A. You don’t have to do what I did; I just highly recommend it for a nicer finished look. If it’s too overwhelming for you, then yes, feel free to just do a simple ivory edging.

Q. How can I make this for a larger pillow?
A. Unfortunately, due to the involved nature of the pattern, it’s quite a bit more complicated than simply starting with a longer chain. If you want to make the pattern for a larger pillow insert, you’ll need to figure out the changes on your own.

Q. Is there a video tutorial for this pattern?
A. No, sorry! 🙂

July 3, 2016
Bubble Gum Accent Rug

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!

I have a fun new home decor pattern for you today! I experimented with Lion Brand’s cheerfully-colored Kitchen Cotton line to come up with this bright accent rug. I’m a big fan of color-blocking (colors striped in big chunks at a time), so I used that method when choosing this project’s color scheme. Smaller stripes of an off-white separate each of the color blocks to really make them pop. This accent rug would be perfect in a bathroom or a nursery.

I double-stranded (held two strands together) my yarn for this pattern in order to get a nice sturdy rug. If you’re newer to crochet, this might sound intimidating, but you’ll get the hang of it quick! You may also find that it’s a little harder on your hands, because the hook has to work a little harder, but you can always set it aside for a day and come back to it with fresh fingers.

You can find this fun, sturdy yarn at lionbrand.com, or on Craftsy. At the time this blog post was published, Kitchen Cotton was on sale on Craftsy.com for just $2.03 a skein (regular $3.69). That’s a steal!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

BUBBLE GUM ACCENT RUG

Level: Easy

Size: 20″ (height) x 30″ (width)

Hook: H (5.00mm)

Yarn: About 1,100 yards of Kitchen Cotton yarn from Lion Brand. (Kitchen Cotton is a #4 medium weight yarn.) I used the following colors and amounts:

Grape (about 280 yards, or less than 3 skeins)
Bubblegum (about 280 yards, or less than 3 skeins)
Tropic Breeze (about 280 yards, or less than 3 skeins)
Vanilla (about 260 yards, or less than 3 skeins)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Gauge: 6 rows of 10 SC = 3″ square (getting this exact is not super important unless you’re wanting your rug to turn out the exact same size as mine)

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
(3) You will be double-stranding the entire pattern. (That means holding two strands of yarn together. This will give the rug stiffness.)
(4) You can easily change the size of this rug; just make sure to begin with any odd number of chains (to make it taller or shorter), and add or subtract rows as needed for a different width.
(5) The pattern below is written out according to my color changes, but the stitch pattern is actually just Rows 1-8, with a continuous repeat of Rows 5-8. This is good information to have if you want to make a solid-colored rug, or if you want your color changes to be different than mine.

Here are the colors I used, and how they’ll be referenced in the pattern:
COLOR A: Grape (purple)
COLOR B: Vanilla (ivory)
COLOR C: Bubblegum (pink)
COLOR D: Tropic Breeze (aqua)

PATTERN

Remember, you’re holding two strands together throughout!

To begin: With COLOR A, CH 61.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each CH across. (60)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (60)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (60)
Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)
Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)
Row 6: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (60)
Row 7: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (60)
Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)
Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)
Row 10: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (60)
Row 11: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (60)
Row 12: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)

Change to COLOR B.

Row 13: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)
Row 14: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (60)
Row 15: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (60)
Row 16: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)

Change to COLOR C.

Row 17: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)
Rows 18-28: Repeat Rows 2-12. (60)

Change to COLOR B.

Rows 29-32: Repeat Rows 13-16. (60)

Change to COLOR D.

Row 33: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)
Rows 34-44: Repeat Rows 2-12. (60)

Change to COLOR B.

Rows 45-48: Repeat Rows 13-16. (60)

Change to COLOR A.

Row 49: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)
Rows 50-60: Repeat Rows 2-12. (60)

Change to COLOR B.

Rows 61-64: Repeat Rows 13-16. (60)

Change to COLOR C.

Row 65: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)
Rows 66-76: Repeat Rows 2-12. (60)

Change to COLOR B.

Rows 77-80: Repeat Rows 13-16. (60)

Change to COLOR D.

Row 81: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (60)
Rows 82-92: Repeat Rows 2-12. (60)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

June 28, 2016
Barb’s Chemo Cap
A couple of weeks ago, a very dear friend asked me to make her a pink chemo cap to replace the one she’d worn out. I was honored, of course, and went right to Hobby Lobby to grab a couple skeins of my favorite wearable cotton yarn, I Love This Cotton. I used the pattern for the Olivia Preemie Hat as a design base for this adult-sized beanie, and added a 5 Petal Tropical Flower as a finishing touch.

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All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

BARB’S CHEMO CAP CROCHET PATTERN

Level: Easy

Size:
One Size Fist Most (Preteen – Adult Woman).
Hat measures 10” across the bottom of the band, and is 7.5” tall.

Materials:
- H hook (5.005mm)
- Yarn needle
- 140 yards of Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton (shown in “Pink” with a contrasting round in “White”)
- Stitch marker (a bobby pin works great)
Gauge:
Your first 3 rounds should measure 3.5″ across.

Abbreviations Used:
MC (magic circle) – view my tutorial here
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
DC (double crochet)
SC+DC (single crochet and double crochet in same ST)

Notes:

(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) This hat is worked in a continuous spiral until the very end. Do not join, chain or turn until instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
(3) The information above is only for the hat. The pattern for the flower can be found here. For the flower, I used the same brand of yarn and a G hook.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Make a magic circle, CH1.

Round 1: 12 DC in MC (12)

Round 2: 2 DC in each ST around (24)

Round 3: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around (36)

Round 4: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 STS) around (48)

Rounds 5: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 3 STS) around (60)

Round 6: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 4 STS) around (72)

Rounds 7-19: SC+DC in first ST, SK next ST. (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around. (72)

Round 20: SC+DC in first ST, SK next ST. (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around until only 2 STS remain. SC in next ST, SL ST in next (last) ST. (72)

Round 21: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join to the first SC with a SL ST. (72)

Change to contrasting color if desired.

Round 22: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join to the first SC with a SL ST. (72)

Fasten off and weave in all ends. Add an optional flower for a little more fun! Click here to see the pattern I used.
June 12, 2016
Huntley Gift Bag Crochet Pattern

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for supplying the yarn for this sample!

It’s not lost on me that this probably seems a little late in the game to be releasing a Teacher Thank-You Gift idea, considering it seems most of the country has already been on summer break for a couple of weeks. But here in Michigan, we have this silly little state law that prohibits public schools from starting before Labor Day; and with a late start date comes a late end date. (I don’t mind it, really… it’s especially nice when all the Ohio kids go back to school in August and we Michiganders get all the rides at Cedar Point to ourselves. But I digress.)

So, since I’m a procrastinator, I’m just now figuring out what to give my son’s awesome Readiness Kindergarten teacher. Luckily for you, this pattern could be used for a number of things (and I’m hoping that Mrs. Huntley will find other uses for it as well)!

For Mrs. Huntley, I stuffed it with glue sticks and glue bottles (which were a constant need in the classroom throughout the year), and I also plan to add some candy and a small gift card for coffee. Hopefully she’ll love it… we sure love her!

About the Yarn

24/7 Cotton is a #4 medium weight yarn, although I’d definitely put it on the lighter side of the #4 family. It’s 100% mercerized cotton, which means it’s been treated with a process that brings out its brightness and sheen and helps it withstand multiple washings without losing that sheen. It comes in 186-yard skeins in a range of 24 gorgeous colors, from striking brights to natural-looking neutrals. It produces a stiffish (that’s probably not a real word) fabric, has a great balance of sheen and stitch definition, and doesn’t split at all during use. I’ve been seriously impressed with Lion Brand’s recently released yarns, and 24/7 Cotton is really no exception.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

HUNTLEY GIFT BAG

Level: Easy

Size: 9″ long x 3″ wide x 6″ tall

Hook: H (5.00mm)

Yarn: About 295 yards total of a #4 medium weight 100% mercerized cotton yarn. I used 24/7 Cotton (by Lion Brand) in color blocks of Lilac, Café Au Lait, and Ecru. You will be holding two strands together, so you can either buy two skeins of each color (if you’re using my color changes), or you can buy 1 skein of each and roll half of each skein into its own center-pull ball.

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Gauge: 12 rows of 10SC = 3″ square

Abbreviations Used:
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
(3) You are holding two strands together throughout the pattern.
(4) Made at the correct gauge, this bag is stiff enough to stand on its own, but still has quite a bit of give. For a stiffer bag, use a smaller hook size or consider triple-stranding your yarn.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
With first color double-stranded, CH 26.

Round 1: 3SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in each of the next 23 CHs. 3SC in last CH, working around the tail to the other side. SC in each of the next 23 CHs. Join with a SL ST to 1st SC. (52)

Round 2: CH1 (does not count as a stitch, here or throughout). 2SC in same ST, 2SC in each of the next 2 STS. SC in each of the next 23 STS. 2SC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 23 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st SC. (58)

Round 3: CH1. 2SC in same ST. SC in next ST. (2SC in next, SC in next) two times. SC in each of the next 23 STS. (2SC in next, SC in next) three times. SC in each of the next 23 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st SC. (64)

Round 4: CH1. SC in each of first 2 STS. 2 SC in next ST. (SC in each of next 2 STS, 2SC in next) two times. SC in each of the next 23 STS. (SC in each of next 2 STS, 2SC in next) three times. SC in each of the next 23 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st SC. (70)

Round 5: CH1. SC+HDC in same ST, SK next ST. (SC+HDC in next ST, SK next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. (70)

Rounds 6-13: CH1, turn. SC+HDC in same ST, SK next ST. (SC+HDC in next ST, SK next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. (70)

Note: You should be back on the right side of your work at this point. If you find that you are on the wrong side, it’s not a big deal, you probably just miscounted a row, but you’ll need to turn on the next round to get yourself back to the right side.

Change colors if desired.

Rounds 14-20: CH1. SC in first ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. (70)

Change colors if desired.

Rounds 21-23: CH1. SC in first ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. (70)

Round 24: CH1. SC in first ST and in next 19 STS. CH14. SK 11 STS. SC in next 24 STS. CH14. SK 11 STS. SC in next 4 STS. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. (48 SC + two CH14s)

Visual of Round 24, creating the bag handles with the CH14:

Round 25: CH1. SC in first ST and in each ST around, putting 1SC in each CH from the two CH14s of the previous round. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. (76)

Rounds 26-27: CH1. SC in first ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. (76)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

June 8, 2016
Zinnia 12″ Square
(Pour la traduction française, cliquez ici. Traduit par Véronique Malanda Mavouala de Chez Horaive.)

After a lot of back-and-forth between the seasons here in Michigan, I think (I said think) it’s safe to say that Spring has officially sprung. So I’m excited to reveal this year’s contribution to the Moogly 2016 Afghan CAL: the Zinnia 12″ Crochet Square!

If you followed along with the CAL last year, you might think this square looks very familiar. And you’re right! I took my inspiration from my 2015 submission, the Neverending Wildflower 12″ Square.

This flower is built similarly, but has a significant difference: instead of petals that increase in width, as in last year’s square, this one has petals that stay the same size and only increase in quantity, resulting in a mass of tiny petals — much like a Zinnia flower. It’s a great match to the 2015 square, and the two together might make a stunning blanket of their own!

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ZINNIA 12″ SQUARE

(Pour la traduction française, cliquez ici.)

Difficulty: Easyish
Final Size: 12″x12″
Hook: I (5.50mm)
Yarn: Vanna’s Choice, or your favorite #4 aran weight yarn. I used about 130 yards (total) of Vanna’s Choice, in colors Linen, Dusty Purple, Purple, and Taupe.
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, small button and tools to attach it (optional)
Gauge: Circle after Round 3 should measure 3.75” in diameter.

Notes: 
- This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
- The flower, including its petals, are worked as a part of the granny square as a whole. Rounds will alternate between increase rounds and petals. Increase rounds will be called “round 1, 2, 3” etc, and petal rounds will be referred to as “1^st round of petals, 2^nd round of petals,” etc. Because each petal round shares its space with the increase round below it, they are not counted as part of the pattern’s total rounds.
- CH1 on the increase rounds does not count as a stitch.
- Be mindful that the pattern alternates in calling for FLO (Front Loops Only) and BLO (Back Loops Only).
- If doing a multi-colored flower, the best place to change colors is on the increase rounds (not the petal rounds).
PART 1: THE FLOWER

Begin with a Magic Circle; CH1.

Round 1: 12 DC in MC. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (12)

1^st Round of Petals (FLO – don’t miss this!): CH2. In same St, 2DC, CH2, SL ST. This is your first petal. (SL ST to next St. In same St, CH2, 2DC, CH2, SL ST to same St) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 2 (BLO – You’re now going to work around Round 1 again, this time working in the loop that you ignored during the first round of petals): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 1. CH1. 2DC in same ST. 2 DC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (24)

2^nd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 3 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 2. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in next ST. (2DC in next ST, DC in next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (36)

3^rd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (18 petals)

Round 4 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 3. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (48)

4^th Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. To complete flower, SL ST to 1^st BLO of Round 4. (24 petals)

PART 2: THE SQUARE

Round 5 (BLO): CH2 (does not count as a stitch, here and throughout the rest of the pattern). In same ST, 2DC, CH2, 2DC. DC in next. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. DC in next ST. (In next ST, 2DC, CH2, 2DC. DC in next. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. DC in next ST) 3 times. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 15.)

Round 6: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 19.)

Round 7: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 23.)

Round 8: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 27.)

Round 9: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 31.)

Round 10: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 35.)

Round 11: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 39.)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.
May 12, 2016
Neverending Zinnia
My Neverending Wildflower pattern went a little viral last year, and I’m thrilled that you guys liked it so much. I turned it into a 12″ square for Moogly’s 2015 CAL, as well as a Shoulder Bag for a CAL of my own last summer. Most recently, it became a Dish Scrubby! I’ve even seen my readers come up with gorgeous variations of their own, turning it into pillows, potholders and more. So fun!

Today I’m giving you a pattern for a very similar flower. It’s constructed the same as the Neverending Wildflower, but instead of petals that get larger and larger with each round, it has petals that stay the same size but get more numerous, resulting in a huge mass of tiny petals — like a Zinnia flower!

Like the Neverending Wildflower, the Neverending Zinnia can be made larger and larger and larger, without getting any taller. This makes it perfect for an appliqué on a blanket or a bag.

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THE NEVERENDING WILDFLOWER

Hook: H (5.00mm) or size appropriate for the yarn you choose
Yarn: The yarn you choose doesn’t matter, as long as your hook is a good match for it. I used an H hook and worsted weight yarn for my sample in the photos, which measures 8″ across.
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: Unimportant

Video Tutorial (sort of): If you have a hard time getting this pattern started, there is a video tutorial for my Wildflower Shoulder Bag that matches up with the first two rounds of petals in this pattern. Please note that after the 2nd round of petals, the video will no longer be applicable (but by then, you’ll probably have the hang of it anyway). View tutorial here.

Notes: 
- This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
- Rounds will alternate between increase rounds and petals. Increase rounds will be called “round 1, 2, 3” etc, and petal rounds will be referred to as “1^st round of petals, 2^nd round of petals,” etc. Because ch petal round shares its space with the increase round below it, they are not counted as part of the pattern’s total rounds.
- CH1 on the increase rounds does not count as a stitch.
- Be mindful that the pattern alternates in calling for FLO (Front Loops Only) and BLO (Back Loops Only).
- Each round of petals has 12 total petals. The first round of petals will cover 1 ST (of the previous round) per petal. The 2^nd round of petals will cover 2 STS per petal, the 3^rd round 3 STS, and so on. I’m giving you instructions up to 5 rounds of petals, but using this formula and a little imagination, you can make it even bigger.
THE PATTERN

Begin with a Magic Circle; CH1.

Round 1: 12 DC in MC. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (12)

1st Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. In same St, 2DC, CH2, SL ST. This is your first petal. (SL ST to next St. In same St, CH2, 2DC, CH2, SL ST to same St) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 2 (BLO – You’re now going to work around Round 1 again, this time working in the loop that you ignored during the first round of petals): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 1. CH1. 2DC in same ST. 2 DC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (24)

2nd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 3 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 2. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in next ST. (2DC in next ST, DC in next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (36)

3rd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 4 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 3. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (48)

4th Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. To complete flower, SL ST to 1^st BLO of Round 4. (12 petals)

Round 5 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 4. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in each of the next 3 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 3 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (60)

5th Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in each of the next 3 STS. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in each of the next 3 STS. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Fasten off and weave in ends, or keep adding increase rounds and petal rounds to make it even bigger!
May 9, 2016
Wildflower Dish Scrubby
Thank you to Red Heart for providing the yarn for this sample!

Not long ago, a really fun box of yarn from Red Heart landed on my doorstep. Included inside were two skeins of “Scrubby“, a yarn I’d seen online, but never in person. I couldn’t wait to get started playing with it! I came up with this cute little dish scrubby pattern in the shape of the wildflower that’s been so popular on the blog.

About the Yarn

Red Heart Scrubby is a #4 worsted weight, extremely textured polyester yarn. Thanks to that texture, it gets the gunk off your dishes with ease, and the polyester dries quicker than cotton. If you aren’t a fan of cotton crocheted dishcloths, this might be the perfect alternative!

Because of the texture, Scrubby isn’t as easy to crochet with as a typical worsted weight yarn. I was a little intimidated at first, but once I got going with it, I was fine. It takes a little concentration (and a lot of bright light!), but as long as you understand the different parts of a stitch and what to look for, you’ll get the hang of crocheting with Scrubby!

If you need a little extra help, check out this awesome help video from Marly Bird:

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WILDFLOWER SCRUBBY

Hook: I (5.50mm)
Yarn: Red Heart Scrubby in two colors (< one ball of each). I used Grape (Color “A”) and Jelly (Color “B”).
Difficulty: Easyish (the yarn is a bit tricky at first!)
Gauge: Unimportant
Finished Size: Sample is 5.5″ wide

Notes: 
- This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
- Rounds will alternate between increase rounds and petals. Increase rounds will be called “round 1, 2, 3” etc, and petal rounds will be referred to as “1^st round of petals, 2^nd round of petals,” etc. Because ch petal round shares its space with the increase round below it, they are not counted as part of the pattern’s total rounds.
- CH1 on the increase rounds does not count as a stitch.
- Be mindful that the pattern alternates in calling for FLO (Front Loops Only) and BLO (Back Loops Only).
- This pattern is based off of my Neverending Wildflower. If you haven’t done this pattern before, it might be a good idea to try the pattern below with regular yarn before attempting it with Scrubby. If you need a little extra help, give this pattern a try (it has photo tutorials).
THE PATTERN

With Color A, begin with a Magic Circle; CH1.

Round 1: 12 DC in MC. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (12)

Switch to Color B.

1st Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (6 petals)

Switch to Color A.

Round 2 (BLO – You’re now going to work around Round 1 again, this time working in the loop that you ignored during the first round of petals): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 1. CH1. 2DC in same ST. 2 DC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (24)

2nd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Switch to Color B.

Round 3 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 2. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in next ST. (2DC in next ST, DC in next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (36)

3rd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2DC in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2DC in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.
May 3, 2016
Color Block Placemat

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for supplying the yarn for this sample!

Before we talk about this fabulous yarn, can we talk about this fabulous table!? My dad made it for me! Isn’t it gorgeous? I’ve wanted a farmhouse-style dining table for years and I can’t believe it’s mine! And the fact that my dad made it makes it infinitely more special than anything I could’ve found in a store. (He’s in the process of making some benches for it, but until then, try to look past the totally-not-matching-chairs from my previous table.)

I decided to make some placemats for it; you know, for when guests come over and we pretend that we’re classier than we really are. I’ve been wanting to try Lion Brand Yarn’s 24/7 Cotton, and I had a hunch that placemats might be just the right project. Have you seen the color choices for this yarn? Beautiful!

About the Yarn

24/7 Cotton is a #4 medium weight yarn, although I’d definitely put it on the lighter side of the #4 family. It’s 100% mercerized cotton, which means it’s been treated with a process that brings out its brightness and sheen and helps it withstand multiple washings without losing that sheen. It comes in 186-yard skeins in a range of 24 gorgeous colors, from striking brights to natural-looking neutrals. It produces a stiffish (that’s probably not a real word) fabric, has a great balance of sheen and stitch definition, and doesn’t split at all during use. I’ve been seriously impressed with Lion Brand’s recently released yarns, and 24/7 Cotton is really no exception.

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COLOR BLOCK PLACEMAT

Level: Easy

Size: 13″x18″ (standard placemat size)

Hook: G (4.25mm)

Yarn: About 75-80 yards per color block of #4 medium weight 100% mercerized cotton yarn. I used 24/7 Cotton (by Lion Brand) in color blocks of Lilac, White, Café Au Lait, and Ecru. (Helpful tip: 1 skein of each color will produce 2 placemats, but 2 skeins of each color will produce 5 placemats.)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Gauge: 10 rows of 10 SC = a 2.25″ square

Abbreviations Used:
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
With first color, CH 55.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (54)

Rows 2-17: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (54)

Row 18: CH1, turn. SC in first ST and in each ST across. (54)

Helpful tip: The SCs in Rows 18 & 19 help us to create a nice straight line where color blocks come together. If we didn’t add it, the color changes would have a more jagged edge.

Switch to a new color; fasten off previous color.

Row 19: CH1, turn. SC in first ST and in each ST across. (54)

Rows 20-35: CH1, turn. HDC in 1st ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across until 1 ST remains. SC in remaining ST. (54)

Row 36: CH1, turn. SC in first ST and in each ST across. (54)

For the two remaining color blocks: Switch to a new color and fasten off the previous color, then repeat Rows 19-36. (You will end with 4 color blocks totaling 72 rows.)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

April 17, 2016
Throw Pillow with Removable Flower Accents

Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!

I love throw pillows! They’re so simple to make, and they add so much character to a couch or bed.

For this pillow, I used 220 Superwash from Cascade Yarns (in “Ridge Rock”). This is a popular yarn from Cascade, and it’s my first experience with it. I absolutely love it! It’s soft, but sturdy. It was perfect for the pillow, but would also be great for a hat or scarf. I love that the yarn is not dull-looking, but is still matte enough that it shows off stitch work wonderfully. Click here to see all of the beautiful colors available!

I decided to accent this pillow with a pop of color using three fabric flowers from Hobby Lobby:

The great thing about these flowers is that they’re actually hair clips; so they’re super easy to attach to the pillow, and are completely rearrangeable/removable. If my decor changes, I can simply find different fabric flower clips. So simple!

Enjoy this easy pattern!

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12″ THROW PILLOW (WITH REMOVABLE FLOWER ACCENTS)

Level: Easy

Size: Pattern will fit a standard 12″ throw pillow insert. (Instructions for adjusting the size are including in the Notes section.)

Hook: H (5.00mm)

Yarn: 310-320 yards of 220 Superwash from Cascade Yarns (sample shown in “Ridge Rock”). 220 Superwash is a #4 worsted weight yarn.

You’ll also need: 12″ throw pillow insert, yarn needle, fabric flower hair clips (optional)

Gauge: 8 rows of 12 SC = 3″ square

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
(3) To make the pattern for a larger or smaller pillow, just make sure to begin with an odd number of chains. Your starting chain and first row, when gently stretched, should come just short of the seams of your insert pillow (keeping in mind that you’ll be adding a couple small rows of border at the end).

PATTERN (MAKE 2):

To begin: CH 45.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each CH across. (44)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (44)
Row 3: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44)
Row 4: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44)
Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (44)
Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (44)
Row 7: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44)
Row 8: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44)
Rows 9-44: Repeat Rows 5-8. (44)

Edging: CH1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC. You should have 44 SC on each side.

Sewing Sides Together:
Hold both sides together as you want them to be placed on the pillow. Join your yarn through both pieces, somewhere on the edge (I started in a corner). Ch1, then SC through the lined-up stitches from both pieces, seaming them together:

Continue around 3 sides of the pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Insert pillow. Continue to SC along the remaining side, enclosing the pillow completely. Join with a Sl St to the first SC of the round, fasten off and weave in ends.

Attach your flowers (optional). Done!

April 12, 2016
Providence Scarf

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!

Have you seen Lion Brand’s new yarn, Shawl In A Ball?

Boasting the potential to create an entire stunning shawl with just one skein, it might be just now starting to show up at your local craft stores. (Or, you can purchase it direct from Lion Brand, or from Joann Fabrics in limited colors.) I had a chance to try it, and can I just say, wow.

I realize this is not a shawl, but I’ll get to that.

When I first held the yarn in my hands, I was really surprised that it was a category 4 (worsted) yarn. It really feels so much lighter.

The first thing I thought when I started working with it was, “wow, this is like a really thin version of Homespun.” Which freaked me out a little, because (honesty time) I’ve never successfully completed a pattern with Homespun. I love what people are able to make with it, but it’s just too difficult for me to see the stitches. Shawl In A Ball has that similar crinkly feel to it, so I decided to use a stitch combo that I was very familiar with to ensure I would be able to recognize the loops. Once I got past the first row, I really got the hang of it. It’s like anything new; you just have to give it a chance! And you will be soooo glad you did.

Ok, so I know it’s called Shawl In A Ball, but I’m not a shawl-wearer. So, I decided to take it in a little bit different direction, and used it to make this gorgeous infinity scarf. Aren’t you just drooling over those gradual color changes? I had so much fun making this and was so motivated to keep going because I was enjoying the color changes so much. And the finished look of the stitches creates this beautiful fabric that is light and drapes perfectly. I honestly think Lion Brand hit it out of the park with this yarn!

The scarf is wide, so it could be worn over the shoulders in more of a shawl or wrap fashion. My model here is very petite, so it was too large to hang secure on her shoulders, but I bunched it up in the back a bit to at least be able to show you what it would look like. You could simply measure the shoulder width of the intended recipient, and crochet enough rows to match that needed length. Or, you could secure it with a cute pin.

Of course, there are lots of beautiful colorways to choose from, and you’re bound to find one that suits your personality. The name of the color used in my sample is “Mindful Mauve.” If you can’t find it in stores yet, you can buy it from Joann Fabrics Online in limited colors (or, as always, you can get it direct from Lion Brand).

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PROVIDENCE SCARF

Size:  Scarf measures 40″ around and is 10″ tall (not including fringe).
Gauge:  Not crucial, because you can simply chain until you reach 10″. But, in my scarf, a row of 22 stitches is about 5″ in length (and 10 rows of the pattern are about 3″).
Hook: I (5.50mm)
Yarn: 1 skein of Lion Brand Shawl In A Ball (sample shown in “Mindful Mauve”)
You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Abbreviations Used:
CH (chain)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) It is crocheted as a flat piece, then seamed at the end.
(3) CH1 at the beginning of rounds does not count as a stitch.
(4) Note that the yarn needed for the fringe is cut from the skein first, so that we can be sure to have enough. You’ll notice on my sample scarf that I alternated between two colors of fringe; this was accomplished because the first few yards of my skein were purple, but they were attached with a manufacturer’s knot to the rest of the skin, which started cream-colored (that was the only knot I found). So, I cut off the purple and set it aside, then cut off enough of the cream for the rest of the fringe, then proceeded to make the scarf. (In other words, I got lucky, and made lemonade out of lemons. Every skein will be different.)

FRINGE

Before we even pick up our hook, we first need to set aside some yarn. We’ll be using the whole skein for this pattern, so we want to make sure we have enough yarn left for fringe! Grab a cutting board or something sturdy that’s somewhere between 8-10″ wide, and follow the instructions below.

1. Wrap the yarn all the way around the cutting board about 40 times. Wrap it snug, but don’t wrap it crazy-tight. Try to be consistent.
2. Take a good pair of scissors and carefully cut the yarn right down the center of the pile.
3. You now have a pile of yarn strands approximately 18″ long. Very carefully, fold it in half and cut at the halfway point again. You should now have about 80 strands of yarn, about 9″ long apiece. Set it aside for when you’ve completed the pattern.

PATTERN

To begin:
CH45. (This should measure about 10″ when lightly stretched; add or subtract chains as necessary, just be sure to begin with an odd number of chains.)

Row 1: SC+HDC in 3rd CH from hook. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44)

Rows 2-132 (or until you get to the end of your skein, or until the scarf is the length you want it to be): CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (44)

Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough to seam the scarf. Use your yarn needle and finishing tail to whip stitch both ends together.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Attaching the Fringe

Attach fringe to every other row along the entire length of one side of the scarf.

March 29, 2016