Category: Scarves + Cowls

  • Maisy’s Holiday Dog Scarf

    Maisy’s Holiday Dog Scarf

    Oh boy, have I got something cute for you.

    I was on Amazon the other day when I came across some adorable knit scarves for dogs. I thought to myself, I could totally crochet something like that. So I did!

    So for Day #12 of my 12 Days of Christmas, we’re concluding the fun with a cute pattern for our furry friends. Modeled by my Maisy girl, of course!

    White Labrador sits in front of a Christmas tree and wears a red and white scarf.

    (Disclaimer: It should go without saying, but your pup should only wear this when supervised. It’s great for a winter walk, holiday photos, or Christmas Day with the family, but don’t leave it on if they’re heading outside or will be home alone. Safety before cuteness!)

    Maisy is modeling the large breed size… I made a small breed size for Simba, but he was not thrilled about it. I know it looks like he’s posing here, but in reality my snuggly tabby was just flat out refusing to look at me. But he looks so cute!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    Maisy’s Holiday Dog Scarf

    View on Ravelry

    Language: American Standard

    Difficulty: Beginner / Easy

    Finished Sizes: 

    Length before seamingLength after seamingWidth
    SMALL Breed18″15″2″
    MEDIUM Breed24″20″3″
    LARGE Breed28″24″4″

    Hook: J (6.0mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: I used Yarn Bee Comfy Classic in “Red”. I chose this viscose/polyester/nylon #4 weight yarn because it’s stretchy, so it’s easy to slip over my dog’s head. But really, you can use any yarn you want! Even if you choose thicker or thinner yarn and an appropriate hook size, you can simply follow the measurements of the pattern as a guide.

    You’ll Also Need: A faux fur or yarn pom, appropriately sized for the animal that will be wearing it. I recommend 2-3″ for a small breed, and 4″ for a medium or large breed.

    Gauge: 13 HDC x 12 rows = 4″ square

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    CH (chain)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    BLO (back loop only)

    Notes:
    (1) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (2) To change the length of the scarf, add to or subtract any number from your starting chain. To change the width, add to or subtract from the total number of rows. There is no stitch multiple.
    (3) Instructions are written for a small breed dog, with counts for medium breed and large breed in parentheses.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To begin: CH59 (79, 91).

    Row 1: HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH.
    Stitch count: 58 (78, 90)

    Rows 2-6 (2-9, 2-12): CH1, turn. HDC in first ST, HDC in BLO across until 1 ST remains, HDC in final ST.
    Stitch count: 58 (78, 90)

    Fasten off, leaving a tail for attaching pom.

    Attaching Pom

    Using finishing tail and a yarn needle, weave yarn needle down the short edge of the scarf and pull tight to cinch it together.

    Run needle through pom (use the elastic loop if using a store-bought pom) and then back through the cinched edge of the scarf, through the pom again, and through the cinched edge one more time. When pom feels secure, tie a knot and weave in the tail.

    Seaming the Other End

    Fold the other end onto itself, forming a loop at the end of the scarf that is just a bit smaller than the pom you chose. With yarn needle, sew the edge down to attach it to the bottom layer of the scarf.

    Weave in any remaining yarn tails.

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see your beautiful work (and your adorable pups)!

    White Labrador sits in front of a Christmas tree and wears a red and white scarf.
  • 12 Days of Christmas: The Rhylee Scarf

    12 Days of Christmas: The Rhylee Scarf

    A classic scarf is always on-trend, so for Day #7 of my 12 Days of Christmas I’m giving you a new pattern for one!

    I chose Yarn Bee’s Feelin’ Chunky for my sample scarf (which I’m totally keeping for myself). Feelin’ Chunky is a #5 weight cotton yarn… and I know cotton doesn’t seem like the ideal winter choice, but I’m one of those people that is always too warm so I love the soft, cool feel of this yarn. But you can, of course, choose whatever chunky yarn you love most!

    This scarf would also make a great men’s pattern, don’t you think? The texture really isn’t feminine at all. I love the three different colors of tassels because it’s a great opportunity to incorporate color into the scarf without it becoming too busy.

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    THE RHYLEE SCARF

    View on Ravelry

    Language: American Standard

    Difficulty: Beginner / Easy

    Finished Size: 64″ long x 9″ wide

    Hook: L (8mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: Approx. 320 yards of Yarn Bee Feelin’ Chunky, or other similar #5 weight yarn (COLOR A). I used colorway “Dove”. You’ll also need 10 yards each of two additional colors (COLOR B and COLOR C) for the fringe. (These don’t necessarily need to be the same yarn.) I used Yarn Bee Feelin’ Chunky in “White” and Loops & Threads Charisma in “Blush Tweed.”

    Gauge: 10 SC x 11 rows = 4″ square

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    FLO (front loop only)

    Notes:
    (1) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (2) To change the length of your scarf, add to or subtract any number from your starting chain. To change the width, add to or subtract from the total number of rows. (Remember, increasing the size will increase the amount of yarn required.)

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To begin: With COLOR A, CH151.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (150)

    Rows 2-24: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in FLO across until 1 ST remains. SC in final ST. (150)

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

    Adding the Fringe

    For the fringe, I cut several 10″ strands of each of my three chosen colors. I attached them in groups of 4 at the end of each row, alternating between using 4 of color A (the main scarf color) and 2 each of colors B and C.

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see your beautiful work!

  • Cabin Fever Cowl

    Cabin Fever Cowl

    I think cowls are the greatest thing. They basically style themselves, and they don’t fall off. That’s a win for me!

    The Cabin Fever Cowl is the match to the Cabin Fever Slouch. It’s chunky, oversized, and stylish. And it’s easy! There’s nothing groundbreaking about the design of this set; it’s just a simple stitch paired with a beautiful yarn in rich fall colors. And it’s beautiful.

    I loved it so much, I made a second one!

    About the Yarn

    For this pattern set, I used a yarn that I acquired during our family vacation to the Great Smoky Mountains this summer. I have always wanted to visit an A.C. Moore store, but I live several hours from the nearest one… so when our road trip took us right through Cincinnati, we made a quick stop – literally, I basically ran to the yarn aisle and went straight for Stitch Studio By Nicole’s Earthtone, grabbed a bunch of them, and hurried up to checkout. (When you have a travel-weary toddler waiting for you in the van, you don’t get to take your time!)

    I’ve seen several of you using Earthtone for my patterns throughout the years, and always wanted to get my hands on some. I absolutely love it. It’s soft and the colors are rich and beautiful and the tweediness adds so much character. A good tweed gives acrylic projects a much more natural look, and it’s also very forgiving. I can hardly even tell where my seam is from the outside!

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    I’ve put together a step-by-step video tutorial for you visual learners! The instructions for the pattern are written right on the screen, so you can follow along visually while also developing your pattern-reading skills. It’s a feature I’ve gotten lots of compliments for on my videos, so it’s definitely worth the extra effort it takes to include it!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    CABIN FEVER COWL

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 35″ around x 14″ tall

    Hook: H (5.0mm)

    Yarn: Approx. 550 yards of #4 aran weight. You will need about 410 yards of COLOR A and 140 yards of COLOR B. Yarn used in sample photos is Stitch Studio By Nicole’s Earthtone, found at A.C. Moore stores. (Don’t live near an A.C. Moore? Other similar yarns include Vanna’s Choice by Lion Brand or Rustic Romantic by Hobby Lobby.)

    Gauge: Done in 3rd loops, 15 HDC x 13 rows = 4″ square.

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    CH (chain)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    FHDC (foundation half double crochet – see “Special Stitches”)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:

    Foundation Half Double Crochet (FHDC)
    This is the recommended way of beginning the pattern and is better shown than explained, so check out the video tutorial if you aren’t familiar with the technique. There is also an optional classic chain start noted in the pattern, if you would like to do that instead.

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rounds, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) When instructed to “join”, always join with a slip stitch to the first stitch of the round.
    (4) Instead of fastening off at each color change, you will be carrying your yarn up the seam on the inside of the cowl. Instructions for how to do this are written into the pattern.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    Round 1: With COLOR A, FHDC 130. (Alternate start: CH131, HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH.) Join, being careful to not twist the round. There will be a gap where the bottom edge of your first and last stitches do not touch; we’ll fix that later. (130)

    Rounds 2-22: CH1, turn. HDC in 3rd loops around. Join. (130)

    Round 23: Attach COLOR B (do not fasten off COLOR A). CH1, turn. HDC in 3rd loops around. Join, making sure working tail from COLOR A is in front of the join stitch. (130)

    Round 24: Switch to COLOR A (do not fasten off COLOR B). CH1, turn. HDC in 3rd loops around. Join, making sure working tail from COLOR B is behind the join stitch. (130)

    From this point on, every time you join, be sure that the yarn is always carried up on the same side of the fabric.

    Rounds 25-44: Repeat Rounds 23-24. (Note that when you repeat Round 23, you are no longer attaching COLOR B as it is already attached; you are just switching back to it.)

    Fasten off. Use your starting tail to stitch the gap at the beginning closed, then weave in all ends.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #cabinfevercowl and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Anya Infinity Scarf

    Anya Infinity Scarf

    Last Fall I created a pillow pattern for Hobby Lobby, and the whole time I was working on the pattern, I knew it needed to be made into a wearable pattern as well. I’ve been having a lot of fun lately with using the most basic stitches in new and interesting ways, and I love the stitch pattern on the Autumn Boho Pillow.

    So, I’ve used it to make a scarf and cowl! The Anya Infinity Scarf pattern is below, and you can find the Anya Cowl right here.

    These patterns definitely fall into the “looks-more-complicated-than-it-really-is” category. The reality is, the design on them is achieved purely through creative use of a single crochet stitch. So if you can single crochet, and you’re good at following directions, you can tackle this pattern with no hesitation.

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    If you need a little extra help with the pattern, here is a video tutorial, and the free pattern is below!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    ANYA INFINITY SCARF

    View on Ravelry

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 62″ long x 7.5″ wide

    Hook: K (6.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: You’ll need two yarns for this project.

    COLOR A: about 375 yards of a #4 aran weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Window Ivy.” A medium to dark color is best.

    COLOR B: about 150 yards of a #3 DK or #4 worsted weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Must Be Merino in “White”. A light, smooth yarn is best.

    Gauge: With COLOR A, 16 rows of 13SC = 4″ square

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 3 buttons (1″ – 1-1/8″)

    Terms and Abbreviations:

    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    SC SPIKE STITCH (single crochet spike stitch; see “Special Stitch”, below)

    Special Stitch:

    SC SPIKE STITCH – Instead of inserting your hook into the top loops of a stitch, insert it into the bottom of the stitch where the “V” meets. See photo (click to enlarge):

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CHs at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) There is no stitch multiple for this pattern. If you want to make it longer, add more chains at the beginning. If you want to make it wider, complete the repeated section more times than instructed.
    (4) Buttons are decorative, but not functional (they are sewn through both layers of the scarf, joining it together permanently).

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To Begin: With COLOR A, CH205.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (204)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a large loop so yarn doesn’t unravel, then remove hook. (204)

    Row 3: Without turning your work, insert hook into the first stitch of Row 2, and attach COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook.  (204)

    Row 4A: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (204)

    Row 4B: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH1, turn. SC SPIKE STITCH in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (204)

    Row 5: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (204)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (204)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (204)

    Row 8: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH3, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (204)

    Row 9A: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (204)

    Row 9B: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH1, turn. SC SPIKE STITCH in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (204)

    Row 10: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (204)

    Row 11: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (204)

    Rows 12-31: Repeat Rows 7-11, in order, 4 more times. (204)

    Row 32: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (204)

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

    Buttons
    Lay scarf wrong side up and bring ends together, overlapping by about an inch. Place your buttons evenly along the edge and sew them through both layers to hold the scarf together.

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #anyainfinityscarf and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Anya Cowl

    Anya Cowl

    Last Fall I created a pillow pattern for Hobby Lobby, and the whole time I was working on the pattern, I knew it needed to be made into a wearable pattern as well. I’ve been having a lot of fun lately with using the most basic stitches in new and interesting ways, and I love the stitch pattern on the Autumn Boho Pillow.

    So, I’ve used it to make a scarf and cowl! The Anya Cowl pattern is below, and you can find the Anya Infinity Scarf right here.

    These patterns definitely fall into the “looks-more-complicated-than-it-really-is” category. The reality is, the design on them is achieved purely through creative use of a single crochet stitch. So if you can single crochet, and you’re good at following directions, you can tackle this pattern with no hesitation.

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    If you need a little extra help with the pattern, here is a video tutorial, and the free pattern is below!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    ANYA COWL

    View on Ravelry

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 40″ long x 9″ tall

    Hook: K (6.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: You’ll need two yarns for this project.

    COLOR A: about 290 yards of a #4 aran weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Red Roads.” A medium to dark color is best. If you want to include fringe, add another 25 yards to the total.

    COLOR B: about 135 yards of a #3 DK or #4 worsted weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Must Be Merino in “White”. A light, smooth yarn is best.

    Gauge: With COLOR A, 16 rows of 13SC = 4″ square

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 3 buttons (1″ – 1-1/8″)

    Terms and Abbreviations:

    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    SC SPIKE STITCH (single crochet spike stitch; see “Special Stitch”, below)

    Special Stitch:

    SC SPIKE STITCH – Instead of inserting your hook into the top loops of a stitch, insert it into the bottom of the stitch where the “V” meets. See photo (click to enlarge):

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CHs at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) There is no stitch multiple for this pattern. If you want to make it longer, add more chains at the beginning. If you want to make it wider, complete the repeated section more times than instructed.
    (4) Buttons are decorative, but not functional (they are sewn through both layers of the cowl, joining it together permanently).

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To Begin: With COLOR A, CH129.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (128)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a large loop so yarn doesn’t unravel, then remove hook. (128)

    Row 3: Without turning your work, insert hook into the first stitch of Row 2, and attach COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook.  (128)

    Row 4A: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (128)

    Row 4B: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH1, turn. SC SPIKE STITCH in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (128)

    Row 5: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (128)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (128)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (128)

    Row 8: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH3, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (128)

    Row 9A: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (128)

    Row 9B: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH1, turn. SC SPIKE STITCH in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (128)

    Row 10: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (128)

    Row 11: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (128)

    Rows 12-41: Repeat Rows 7-11, in order, 6 more times. (128)

    Row 42: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (128)

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

    Fringe (optional)
    Cut about 100 9″ long strands of yarn. (I wrap mine around a 9″ cutting board.) With the right side of the cowl facing up, start at one bottom corner and attach them in groups of 3 strands every 4 stitches along the entire bottom edge of the cowl. (If you don’t know how to attach fringe, see video tutorial for guidance.)

    Buttons
    Lay cowl wrong side up and bring ends together to form a triangle, as shown, making sure the edges line up together. Place your buttons evenly along the edge and sew them through both layers to hold the cowl together. You can also place a small stitch through both layers where the red “x” is to hold the underside of the cowl in place (optional).

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #anyacowl and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Malia Classic Cowl

    Malia Classic Cowl

    I rarely make a pattern twice, but I am still obsessing over the Malia stitch pattern from my Malia Crochet-Along! So, naturally, I just keep reinventing it. This cowl is just what it says it is – classic! A top ribbing adds a little extra visual appeal to the already beautiful combination of the 3rd loops stitches and the large bean stitches.

    One really great thing about this pattern is that it is very easily adaptable to any yarn weight! So if you’re looking for a super quick project, choose a bulky or super bulky yarn (and appropriately-sized hook); or, if you’re looking for something a little more delicate, choose a DK yarn or even smaller. There are notes within the pattern that will instruct you on how to adjust; just keep a ruler handy, and you’ll be good!

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    If you need a little extra help with the stitches in the Malia stitch pattern, here is a video tutorial! (Please note that this tutorial does not follow the Classic Cowl pattern; I simply show you how to do the Malia stitch pattern by crocheting up a swatch of it.)

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA CLASSIC COWL

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 30″ around x 12″ tall

    Hook: I (5.5mm)

    Yarn: Approx. 390 yards of #4 aran weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in “Ivory Tweed”.

    Gauge: Gauge is not important for this pattern, as instructions are given for how to make sure you get the right size using measurements. Keep a ruler handy.

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:

    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) A video tutorial for the stitch pattern is available up in the post, or by clicking here.
    (4) This pattern can be completed using any yarn weight and complimentary hook size; just keep a ruler handy and follow the adjustment notes within the pattern.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    RIBBING

    CH7.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (6)

    Rows 2-102 (or until ribbing measures about 30″ long; be sure to complete an even number of rows): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 4 STS. SC in final ST. (6)

    – – – – – – – – – –

    BODY (Row count restarts back to 1)

    Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC in each row end along the long edge of the ribbing. (102, or however many ribbing rows you completed)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 50 times. SC in final ST. (102)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (102)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each ST across. (102)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (102)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 50 times. SC in final ST. (102)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (102)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each ST across. (102)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (102)

    Row 10: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 50 times. SC in final ST. (102)

    Row 11: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (102)

    Row 12: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loop of each ST across. (102)

    Rows 13-36*: Repeat Rows 5-12, in order, 3 more times. (*If using a different yarn weight, simply do your repeats until the cowl measures about 12″ tall, being sure to end on a repeat of either Row 8 or Row 12.)

    Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    SEAMING

    Use your long finishing tail to sew the short edges of the cowl together, taking care to line up the row ends neatly.

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliaclassiccowl and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Malia Infinity Scarf

    Malia Infinity Scarf

    This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection (including a beanie, slouch, and buttoned cowl), please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

    The third pattern in the Malia CAL is a gorgeous infinity scarf! The texture in this scarf is just to die for, and the addition of the fringe gives it a casual, relaxed vibe.

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    If you need a little extra help with the pattern, here is a video tutorial, and the free pattern is at the bottom of the page!

    Free Printable Tags

    I made some cute printable tags for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting this cowl, a tag just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. Print on cardstock for best results!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA INFINITY SCARF

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 56″ around x 6.5″ wide

    Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: 580 yards of #4 aran weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Okie Wheat.”

    Gauge:  To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.

    Pattern for Gauge:
    CH17.
    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 4 buttons (1″ – 1-1/8″)

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    FHDC     (foundation half double crochet – see “Special Stitches”)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:

    Foundation Half Double Crochet (FHDC)
    This is the recommended way of beginning the pattern and is better shown than explained, so please watch the included tutorial video as a guide. There is also an optional classic chain start noted in the pattern, if you would like to do that instead.

    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) Pattern is worked as a flat piece and then secured into an infinity style with buttons.
    (4) A video tutorial is available up in the post, or by clicking here.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    Row 1: FHDC* 204. (*Alternate start: CH205, HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH.) (204)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 202 STS. SC in final ST. (204)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (204)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 101 times. SC in final ST. (204)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across.

    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 202 STS. SC in final ST. (204)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (204)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 101 times. SC in final ST. (204)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across.

    Rows 10-25: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 2 more times. (204)

    Row 26: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 202 STS. SC in final ST. (204)

    Edging (1 side only, optional): CH1, SC in same ST to round corner. Working down the short edge of the scarf, SC in each row (26). SL ST to the 2nd corner, fasten off and weave in all ends.

    Fringe: Cut about 160 9″ long strands of yarn. (I wrap mine around a 9″ cutting board.) Start at one corner and attach them in groups of 3, every 4 stitches along the entire bottom edge of the scarf.

    Buttons: Lay the scarf out in front of you wrong side up and bring the short ends together, overlapping the end with the edging (if applicable) over the edge without the edging by about 1″. (Ends should now be right side facing up.) Pin it in place if desired. Use yarn and yarn needle or a sewing needle and thread to sew each button onto the edge, evenly spaced, sewing through both layers to hold the scarf together. To help with spacing, start with the top and bottom buttons and then move on to the middle two.

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #maliascarf, and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Malia Buttoned Cowl

    Malia Buttoned Cowl

     This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection (including a beanie, slouch, and infinity scarf), please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

    The fourth pattern in the Malia CAL is a boho-style buttoned cowl! Worked flat, this beautifully-textured piece works great both over a t-shirt or tucked under a winter coat.

    VIDEO TUTORIAL

    If you need a little extra help with the pattern, here is a video tutorial, and the free pattern is below!

    Free Printable Tags

    I made some cute printable tags for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting this cowl, a tag just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. Print on cardstock for best results!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    MALIA BUTTONED COWL

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 30.5″ long x 8″ tall

    Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    Yarn: 355 yards of #4 aran weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Sugared Oats.”

    Gauge: To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.

    Pattern for Gauge:
    CH17.
    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
    Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
    Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 3 buttons (1″ – 1-1/8″)

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    FHDC     (foundation half double crochet – see “Special Stitches”)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:

    Foundation Half Double Crochet (FHDC)
    This is the recommended way of beginning the pattern and is better shown than explained, so please watch the included tutorial video as a guide. There is also an optional classic chain start noted in the pattern, if you would like to do that instead.

    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) A video tutorial is available up in the post, or by clicking here.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    Row 1: FHDC* 108. (*Alternate start: CH109, HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH) (108)

    Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 106 STS. SC in final ST. (108)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (108)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 53 times. SC in final ST. (108)

    Row 5: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (108)

    Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 106 STS. SC in final ST. (108)

    Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (108)

    Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 53 times. SC in final ST. (108)

    Row 9: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (108)

    Rows 10-25: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 2 more times. (108)

    Rows 26-29: Repeat Rows 2-5. (108)

    Row 30: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 106 STS. SC in final ST. (108)

    Edging (1 side only, optional): CH1, SC in same ST to round corner. Working down the short edge of the scarf, SC in each row (30). SL ST to the 2nd corner, fasten off and weave in all ends.

    Fringe: Cut about 90 9″ long strands of yarn. (I wrap mine around a 9″ cutting board.) With the textured (right) side of the cowl facing up, and the edging (if you chose to use edging) on the left side, start at one bottom corner and attach them in groups of 3 strands every 4 stitches along the entire bottom edge of the cowl. (If you don’t know how to attach fringe, see video tutorial for guidance.)

    Buttons: Attach buttons to bottom of cowl using the diagram shown.

    For further help on button placement and wearing the cowl with buttons fastened, please see the video tutorial (toward the end).

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #maliabuttonedcowl and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Landon Slouch and Scarf (Adult and Child Sizes)

    Landon Slouch and Scarf (Adult and Child Sizes)

    Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample.

    Have you used Lion Brand’s Scarfie yarn yet? It is sooo soft and fluffy. My first experience with it was when I designed the Macchiato Slouch and I always knew I’d come back to it again someday. Now there are even more combos to choose from then there were back then, and I am just obsessed with this Mint & Silver! I paired it with Wool-Ease Gray Heather (for the band of the hat, because I wanted to make sure the entire band was one solid color) and it was a perfect match.

    I designed this set as a part of Lion Brand’s “12 Days of Christmas” promotion, and knew you guys would be excited to have it available in both adult and child sizes. You can even grab the kit on lionbrand.com, which comes with the pattern and enough yarn to make two sets – one for you and one for your mini-me!

    The hat is made up mostly of mini bean stitches, which I love because they give basically the same look as a regular bean stitch but use less yarn.

    The finished products are so fluffy and soft! I love fluffy accessories. Besides the obvious fact that they are soft on your skin, they also tend to lay really nicely. This infinity scarf was so easy to style on my model because of its light, airy feel.

    Can I also give a shoutout to my models? Because seriously, they rocked this shoot. You’d never know they had just met, like, two and a half minutes before this photo. 🙂

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    LANDON SLOUCH AND SCARF (ADULT AND CHILD SIZES)

    Difficulty: Easy

    Hooks: K (6.5mm) and H (5.0mm)

    Yarn:
    3 skeins of Lion Brand Scarfie in “Mint/Silver” (#826-217)
    1 skein of Lion Brand Wool-Ease in “Grey Heather” (#620-151)

    Gauge: With larger hook and Scarfie yarn, 4 increase rounds of HDC = 4” diameter. (Begin first round with 10 HDC in a magic circle, then increase each round for a total of 4 rounds.) Use whatever hook size you need to obtain the correct gauge. This guage can be used for all 4 patterns.

    You’ll Also Need: Yarn needle, scissors, pom maker (optional)

    Abbreviations Used:
    MC     (magic circle – tutorial here)
       ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
       SL ST (slip stitch)
       SK (skip)
       CH (chain)
       SC (single crochet)
       BLO (back loop only)
       MBS (mini bean stitch – see “Special Stitch”)

    Special Stitch – Mini Bean Stitch (MBS):
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through (2 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over, pull through (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 4 loops, chain 1 to close stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of top loops, it counts as 2 stitches in final round counts.)

    Notes:
    (1) Patterns are written in American Standard terms.
    (2) Any CH1s at the beginning of rounds do not count as stitches.
    (3) All patterns are designed in a continuous spiral for a seamless finished look. Do not join, chain up or turn unless instructed.
    (4) For the finished measurements of the hats, height is measured from the bottom of the band to the top of the body, pom not included. Width is measured across the bottom of the body of the hat, at the point where the body and the band meet. (Band of hat is smaller but will stretch to fit.)
    (5) The poms on the hats are optional. You will have more than enough yarn left over to make two poms in either Scarfie (shown on the child-size sample) or Wool-Ease (shown on the adult-size sample).
    (6) Due to the nature of the ombre yarn used, no two hats or scarves will look the same.

    – – – – – – – – – –

    LANDON SLOUCH HAT (TEEN / ADULT SMALL)

    Finished Size: 9” tall x 10” wide
    Yarn:     Lion Brand Scarfie (130 yards) and Wool-Ease (45 yards)

    With larger hook and Scarfie yarn,
    Round 1: 10 HDC in MC. (10)

    Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around. (20)

    Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around. (40)

    Round 4: (2 HDC in each of the next 7 STS, HDC in next ST, 2 HDC in each of the next 7 STS, HDC in next ST, 2 HDC in each of the next 3 STS, HDC in next ST) 2 times. (74)

    Rounds 5-20: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (74)

    Round 21: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round. (74)

    Switch to smaller hook and Wool-Ease yarn. Fasten off Scarfie yarn.

    Round 22: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round. (74)

    – – – – – –

    Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to Round 22 (the final round of the hat) with SL STS as we go. If you need a little extra help, click here for a video tutorial on how to add ribbing at the end of a project.

    – – – – – –

    CH9.
    Row 1:     SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 7 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Round 22, the stitch on which your CH9 was built. SL ST into the next SC from Round 22. (8, plus the two slip stitches along Round 22)

    The section we just created, built on the CH9, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 22, SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 7 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Round 22. (8, plus the 2 SL STS along Round 22)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 22, SC in BLO of each of the first 7 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

    Rows 5-74: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along Round 22.

    Fasten off and use your tail to sew together the gap between the first and last rows of the ribbing, then weave in your ends.

    Optional: Use a large Clover Pom Maker to make a pom pom (or make one by hand) and attach it to the top of the hat.

    LANDON SLOUCH HAT (CHILD)

    Finished Size: 8.5” tall x 9” wide
    Yarn:     Lion Brand Scarfie (105 yards) and Wool-Ease (30 yards)

    With larger hook and Scarfie yarn,
    Round 1:     10 HDC in MC. (10)

    Round 2: 2 HDC in each ST around. (20)

    Round 3: 2 HDC in each ST around. (40)

    Round 4: 2 HDC in each of the next 2 STS, HDC in each of the next 2 STS. (2 HDC in each of the next 3 STS, HDC in next ST) 4 times. 2 HDC in each of the next 2 STS, HDC in each of the next 2 STS. (2 HDC in each of the next 3 STS, HDC in next ST) 4 times. (68)

    Rounds 5-19: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (68)

    Round 20: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round. (68)

    Switch to smaller hook and Wool-Ease yarn. Fasten off Scarfie yarn.

    Round 21: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first ST of the round. (68)

    – – – – – –

    Next we’re going to make the band of the hat, and we will be working in vertical rows, attaching it to Round 21 (the final round of the hat) with SL STS as we go. If you need a little extra help, click here for a video tutorial on how to add ribbing at the end of a project.

    – – – – – –

    CH7.
    Row 1:     SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 5 chains. SL ST into the first SC from Round 21, the stitch on which your CH7 was built. SL ST into the next SC from Round 21. (6, plus the two slip stitches along Round 21)

    The section we just created, built on the CH7, will hereafter be referred to as the “ribbing.”

    Row 2: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 21, SC in BLO of each of the first 5 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)

    Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 5 STS of the ribbing. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS of Round 21. (6, plus the 2 SL STS along Round 21)

    Row 4: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS you put in Round 21, SC in BLO of each of the first 5 STS of the ribbing. SC in both loops of the last ST. (6)

    Rows 5-68: Repeat Rows 3-4 all the way along Round 21.

    Fasten off and use your tail to sew together the gap between the first and last rows of the ribbing, then weave in your ends.

    Optional: Use a large Clover Pom Maker to make a pom pom (or make one by hand) and attach it to the top of the hat.

    LANDON SCARF (TEEN / ADULT SMALL)

    Finished Size: 6.5” wide x 60” around
    Yarn:     Lion Brand Scarfie (310 yards)
    Notes:
    (1) For this pattern, use the larger of the two hooks (6.5mm, or whichever one you used to complete your gauge swatch).
    (2) Working into the back bump of the starting chain during Round 1 will help to keep the scarf from curling. It is a bit slower than working into one of the top loops, but worth it in the end.

    To Begin: CH192. Join with a SL ST, being careful not to twist the chain. (192)

    Round 1: CH1. Working in the back bumps of the starting chain, MBS in first ST, SK next ST. (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (192)

    Rounds 2-18: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (192)

    Round 19: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. SL ST into the first ST of the round. (192)

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

    LANDON SCARF (CHILD)

    Finished Size: 5” wide x 46” around
    Yarn:     Lion Brand Scarfie (180 yards)
    Notes:
    (1) For this pattern, use the larger of the two hooks (6.5mm, or whichever one you used to complete your gauge swatch).
    (2) Working into the back bump of the starting chain during Round 1 will help to keep the scarf from curling. It is a bit slower than working into one of the top loops, but worth it in the end.

    To Begin: CH 148. Join with a SL ST, being careful not to twist the chain. (148)

    Round 1: CH1. Working in the back bumps of the starting chain, MBS in first ST, SK next ST. (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (148)

    Rounds 2-13: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. (148)

    Round 14: (MBS in next ST, SK next ST) around. SL ST into the first ST of the round. (148)

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

    Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #landonslouch and #landonscarf, and tag me @yarnandchai. Hope you enjoyed it!

  • Spring Bean Cowl

    Spring Bean Cowl

    Thank you Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this pattern!

    I had the opportunity to try the new Mandala yarn from Lion Brand and I am sooooo excited about it! If you aren’t familiar with it yet, it’s Lion Brand’s take on the trendy yarn cakes that have taken the crochet world by storm recently. I knew I was going to love Mandala as soon as I heard that it was a #3 light yarn – that immediately set it apart in my mind from all the other versions. And the colors!

    Not only are there 16 beautiful color schemes to choose from, but the gradient effect they give is the best I’ve seen in these popular cakes. While not a true gradient, the creators of Mandala yarn were very intentional about their color changes. Instead of 3 or 4 abrupt color jumps, Mandala utilizes light and dark shades of the same color to gradually change from one color to the next. For example, in “Genie” (the sample with the green/white/gray colorway), the yarn started as a dark gray, then switched to medium gray, to grayish-green, to green, to light green, to even lighter green, to white, to lightest gray, to medium gray, and finally on back to the dark gray it began with. What a difference that makes in the overall look!

    I decided that a nice simple textured project would be perfect for showing off the pretty colors of this yarn. I’ve been playing with the bean stitch lately, so that’s what I used. I don’t know exactly why this stitch got its name, but I think it looks like an espresso bean, and coffee-related things always make me happy.

    I also worked this cowl up in two other fun colors – Sphinx (left) and Chamera (right). Mandala yarn definitely has something for everyone!

    What’s really great about this pattern is that it uses all of your Mandala cake without leaving any wasted yarn. That’s always a win for me (and for my overflowing yarn shelf)!

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    SPRING BEAN COWL

    add-to-ravelry-favorites

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 29″ around x 16″ tall

    Hook:  H (5.0mm)

    Yarn: 1 full cake of Lion Brand Mandala (or about 590 yards of your favorite #3 light yarn from Lion Brand). Sample is shown in “Genie”.

    Gauge: 14 rows of 7 bean stitches = 4″ square. Or, your starting chain should measure about 27-28″.

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle

    Abbreviations Used:
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)

    Special Stitch:
       Bean Stitch – Completed, this stitch actually covers the ground of two stitches. Here’s how you do it:

    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch, and skip the next stitch. (You will skip the next stitch every time you do a bean stitch.)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1 at the beginning of round does not count as a stitch.
    (3) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round (spiral). Do notjoin, turn or chain except where instructed.
    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    THE PATTERN

    Fringe (optional)
    Before we make a single stitch, we’re going to cut our fringe. This enables us to have enough yarn for the fringe while still using up every yard of the Mandala cake for the pattern. Since we want our fringe to blend right into the gradient of the pattern, carefully remove the label and find the end of the yarn. (We’ll be pulling from the center while we crochet, so the bottom of the cowl will be the end you find along the outside wall of the cake). Handle your cake with care so that you can slip that label back on it when you’re done.

    Find something in your home that is approximately 9″ wide – I used a 9″ cutting board. Wrap the yarn all the way around the object 55 times, keeping it taught, but not pulling super tight (Figure 1). Cut once at the halfway point (Figure 2). Carefully gather the strands in your hand and fold them in half, then cut again at the halfway point (figure 3). You should now have about 110 pieces of fringe. (We only need 100, but usually a few of them end up too short.) Carefully replace the label on your yarn cake, and proceed to the pattern.

    For the pattern, use the beginning of the yarn from the center of the yarn cake.

    To begin: CH100. Join to first CH with a SL ST, being careful to not twist the chain. (Briana K has an awesome video tutorial here for how to do this perfect every time.) (100)

    Round 1: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around. Do not join. (100)

    Round 2: Do not chain. Complete a bean stitch in the first SC from the previous round (see “Special Stitch” for instructions). Bean stitch around. (100, or 50 bean stitches)

    Rounds 3-52 (or until you almost run out of yarn): Bean Stitch around. (100, or 50 bean stitches)

    To finish: After your last completed bean stitch, SC in next ST and SL ST in next ST. Fasten off and weave in ends. In groups of 4 strands, attach fringe every 4 stitches (every other bean).