I think cowls are the greatest thing. They basically style themselves, and they don’t fall off. That’s a win for me!

The Cabin Fever Cowl is the match to the Cabin Fever Slouch. It’s chunky, oversized, and stylish. And it’s easy! There’s nothing groundbreaking about the design of this set; it’s just a simple stitch paired with a beautiful yarn in rich fall colors. And it’s beautiful.

I loved it so much, I made a second one!

About the Yarn

For this pattern set, I used a yarn that I acquired during our family vacation to the Great Smoky Mountains this summer. I have always wanted to visit an A.C. Moore store, but I live several hours from the nearest one… so when our road trip took us right through Cincinnati, we made a quick stop – literally, I basically ran to the yarn aisle and went straight for Stitch Studio By Nicole’s Earthtone, grabbed a bunch of them, and hurried up to checkout. (When you have a travel-weary toddler waiting for you in the van, you don’t get to take your time!)

I’ve seen several of you using Earthtone for my patterns throughout the years, and always wanted to get my hands on some. I absolutely love it. It’s soft and the colors are rich and beautiful and the tweediness adds so much character. A good tweed gives acrylic projects a much more natural look, and it’s also very forgiving. I can hardly even tell where my seam is from the outside!

VIDEO TUTORIAL

I’ve put together a step-by-step video tutorial for you visual learners! The instructions for the pattern are written right on the screen, so you can follow along visually while also developing your pattern-reading skills. It’s a feature I’ve gotten lots of compliments for on my videos, so it’s definitely worth the extra effort it takes to include it!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

CABIN FEVER COWL

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 35″ around x 14″ tall

Hook: H (5.0mm)

Yarn: Approx. 550 yards of #4 aran weight. You will need about 410 yards of COLOR A and 140 yards of COLOR B. Yarn used in sample photos is Stitch Studio By Nicole’s Earthtone, found at A.C. Moore stores. (Don’t live near an A.C. Moore? Other similar yarns include Vanna’s Choice by Lion Brand or Rustic Romantic by Hobby Lobby.)

Gauge: Done in 3rd loops, 15 HDC x 13 rows = 4″ square.

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
CH (chain)
HDC (half double crochet)
FHDC (foundation half double crochet – see “Special Stitches”)
3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

Special Stitches:

Foundation Half Double Crochet (FHDC)
This is the recommended way of beginning the pattern and is better shown than explained, so check out the video tutorial if you aren’t familiar with the technique. There is also an optional classic chain start noted in the pattern, if you would like to do that instead.

3rd Loop Only
Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rounds, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) When instructed to “join”, always join with a slip stitch to the first stitch of the round.
(4) Instead of fastening off at each color change, you will be carrying your yarn up the seam on the inside of the cowl. Instructions for how to do this are written into the pattern.

INSTRUCTIONS

Round 1: With COLOR A, FHDC 130. (Alternate start: CH131, HDC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH.) Join, being careful to not twist the round. There will be a gap where the bottom edge of your first and last stitches do not touch; we’ll fix that later. (130)

Rounds 2-22: CH1, turn. HDC in 3rd loops around. Join. (130)

Round 23: Attach COLOR B (do not fasten off COLOR A). CH1, turn. HDC in 3rd loops around. Join, making sure working tail from COLOR A is in front of the join stitch. (130)

Round 24: Switch to COLOR A (do not fasten off COLOR B). CH1, turn. HDC in 3rd loops around. Join, making sure working tail from COLOR B is behind the join stitch. (130)

From this point on, every time you join, be sure that the yarn is always carried up on the same side of the fabric.

Rounds 25-44: Repeat Rounds 23-24. (Note that when you repeat Round 23, you are no longer attaching COLOR B as it is already attached; you are just switching back to it.)

Fasten off. Use your starting tail to stitch the gap at the beginning closed, then weave in all ends.

– – – – – – – – – –

Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #cabinfevercowl and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Hope you enjoyed it!

Last Fall I created a pillow pattern for Hobby Lobby, and the whole time I was working on the pattern, I knew it needed to be made into a wearable pattern as well. I’ve been having a lot of fun lately with using the most basic stitches in new and interesting ways, and I love the stitch pattern on the Autumn Boho Pillow.

So, I’ve used it to make a scarf and cowl! The Anya Cowl pattern is below, and you can find the Anya Infinity Scarf right here.

These patterns definitely fall into the “looks-more-complicated-than-it-really-is” category. The reality is, the design on them is achieved purely through creative use of a single crochet stitch. So if you can single crochet, and you’re good at following directions, you can tackle this pattern with no hesitation.

VIDEO TUTORIAL

If you need a little extra help with the pattern, here is a video tutorial, and the free pattern is below!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

ANYA COWL

View on Ravelry

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 40″ long x 9″ tall

Hook: K (6.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

Yarn: You’ll need two yarns for this project.

COLOR A: about 290 yards of a #4 aran weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Red Roads.” A medium to dark color is best. If you want to include fringe, add another 25 yards to the total.

COLOR B: about 135 yards of a #3 DK or #4 worsted weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Must Be Merino in “White”. A light, smooth yarn is best.

Gauge: With COLOR A, 16 rows of 13SC = 4″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 3 buttons (1″ – 1-1/8″)

Terms and Abbreviations:

ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
SC SPIKE STITCH (single crochet spike stitch; see “Special Stitch”, below)

Special Stitch:

SC SPIKE STITCH – Instead of inserting your hook into the top loops of a stitch, insert it into the bottom of the stitch where the “V” meets. See photo (click to enlarge):

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CHs at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) There is no stitch multiple for this pattern. If you want to make it longer, add more chains at the beginning. If you want to make it wider, complete the repeated section more times than instructed.
(4) Buttons are decorative, but not functional (they are sewn through both layers of the cowl, joining it together permanently).

INSTRUCTIONS

To Begin: With COLOR A, CH129.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (128)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a large loop so yarn doesn’t unravel, then remove hook. (128)

Row 3: Without turning your work, insert hook into the first stitch of Row 2, and attach COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook.  (128)

Row 4A: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (128)

Row 4B: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH1, turn. SC SPIKE STITCH in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (128)

Row 5: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (128)

Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (128)

Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (128)

Row 8: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH3, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (128)

Row 9A: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (128)

Row 9B: Turn work and reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. CH1, turn. SC SPIKE STITCH in each ST across. Pull up a loop and remove hook. (128)

Row 10: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR A, making sure to insert from behind previous color’s loop and working yarn. CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (128)

Row 11: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (128)

Rows 12-41: Repeat Rows 7-11, in order, 6 more times. (128)

Row 42: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (128)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Fringe (optional)
Cut about 100 9″ long strands of yarn. (I wrap mine around a 9″ cutting board.) With the right side of the cowl facing up, start at one bottom corner and attach them in groups of 3 strands every 4 stitches along the entire bottom edge of the cowl. (If you don’t know how to attach fringe, see video tutorial for guidance.)

Buttons
Lay cowl wrong side up and bring ends together to form a triangle, as shown, making sure the edges line up together. Place your buttons evenly along the edge and sew them through both layers to hold the cowl together. You can also place a small stitch through both layers where the red “x” is to hold the underside of the cowl in place (optional).

Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #anyacowl and tag me @yarnandchai.design. Hope you enjoyed it!

I rarely make a pattern twice, but I am still obsessing over the Malia stitch pattern from my Malia Crochet-Along! So, naturally, I just keep reinventing it. This cowl is just what it says it is – classic! A top ribbing adds a little extra visual appeal to the already beautiful combination of the 3rd loops stitches and the large bean stitches.

One really great thing about this pattern is that it is very easily adaptable to any yarn weight! So if you’re looking for a super quick project, choose a bulky or super bulky yarn (and appropriately-sized hook); or, if you’re looking for something a little more delicate, choose a DK yarn or even smaller. There are notes within the pattern that will instruct you on how to adjust; just keep a ruler handy, and you’ll be good!

VIDEO TUTORIAL

If you need a little extra help with the stitches in the Malia stitch pattern, here is a video tutorial! (Please note that this tutorial does not follow the Classic Cowl pattern; I simply show you how to do the Malia stitch pattern by crocheting up a swatch of it.)

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

MALIA CLASSIC COWL

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 30″ around x 12″ tall

Hook: I (5.5mm)

Yarn: Approx. 390 yards of #4 aran weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in “Ivory Tweed”.

Gauge: Gauge is not important for this pattern, as instructions are given for how to make sure you get the right size using measurements. Keep a ruler handy.

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
BLO (back loop only)
3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

Special Stitches:

Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

3rd Loop Only
Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) A video tutorial for the stitch pattern is available up in the post, or by clicking here.
(4) This pattern can be completed using any yarn weight and complimentary hook size; just keep a ruler handy and follow the adjustment notes within the pattern.

INSTRUCTIONS

RIBBING

CH7.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (6)

Rows 2-102 (or until ribbing measures about 30″ long; be sure to complete an even number of rows): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 4 STS. SC in final ST. (6)

– – – – – – – – – –

BODY (Row count restarts back to 1)

Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC in each row end along the long edge of the ribbing. (102, or however many ribbing rows you completed)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 50 times. SC in final ST. (102)

Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (102)

Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in 3^rd loop of each ST across. (102)

Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (102)

Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 50 times. SC in final ST. (102)

Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (102)

Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in 3^rd loop of each ST across. (102)

Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (102)

Row 10: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 50 times. SC in final ST. (102)

Row 11: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (102)

Row 12: CH1, turn. SC in 3^rd loop of each ST across. (102)

Rows 13-36*: Repeat Rows 5-12, in order, 3 more times. (*If using a different yarn weight, simply do your repeats until the cowl measures about 12″ tall, being sure to end on a repeat of either Row 8 or Row 12.)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

– – – – – – – – – –

SEAMING

Use your long finishing tail to sew the short edges of the cowl together, taking care to line up the row ends neatly.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliaclassiccowl and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!

 This pattern is part of the Fall 2017 Malia CAL (Crochet-Along). To view the other patterns in this collection (including a beanie, slouch, and infinity scarf), please visit the Malia CAL Homepage.

The fourth pattern in the Malia CAL is a boho-style buttoned cowl! Worked flat, this beautifully-textured piece works great both over a t-shirt or tucked under a winter coat.

VIDEO TUTORIAL

If you need a little extra help with the pattern, here is a video tutorial, and the free pattern is below!

Free Printable Tags

I made some cute printable tags for this pattern that you are welcome to use! If you’re selling or gifting this cowl, a tag just ups the professionalism, in my opinion. Print on cardstock for best results!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

MALIA BUTTONED COWL

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 30.5″ long x 8″ tall

Hook: I (5.50 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

Yarn: 355 yards of #4 aran weight. Yarn used in sample photos is Yarn Bee’s Rustic Romantic in “Sugared Oats.”

Gauge: To ensure the best results, the gauge check is a swatch taken straight from the pattern. Upon completion, you should have a 4” square. If yours is larger, consider using a smaller hook or a thinner #4 yarn. If yours is smaller, consider using a larger hook.

Pattern for Gauge:
CH17.
Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (16)
Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
Row 3: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
Row 5: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 7 times. SC in final ST. (16)
Row 7: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (16)
Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3rd loop of each of the next 14 STS. SC in final ST. (16)
Row 9: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (16)
Rows 10-16: Repeat Rows 2-8. (16)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 3 buttons (1″ – 1-1/8″)

Terms and Abbreviations:
FHDC (foundation half double crochet – see “Special Stitches”)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
BLO (back loop only)
3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

Special Stitches:

Foundation Half Double Crochet (FHDC)
This is the recommended way of beginning the pattern and is better shown than explained, so please watch the included tutorial video as a guide. There is also an optional classic chain start noted in the pattern, if you would like to do that instead.

Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

3rd Loop Only
Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rows do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
(3) A video tutorial is available up in the post, or by clicking here.

INSTRUCTIONS

Row 1: FHDC* 108. (*Alternate start: CH109, HDC in 2^nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH) (108)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3^rd loop of each of the next 106 STS. SC in final ST. (108)

Row 3: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (108)

Row 4: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) 53 times. SC in final ST. (108)

Row 5: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (108)

Row 6: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3^rd loop of each of the next 106 STS. SC in final ST. (108)

Row 7: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (108)

Row 8: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. (LBS in next ST, SK next ST) 53 times. SC in final ST. (108)

Row 9: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST across. (108)

Rows 10-25: Repeat Rows 2-9, in order, 2 more times. (108)

Rows 26-29: Repeat Rows 2-5. (108)

Row 30: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in 3^rd loop of each of the next 106 STS. SC in final ST. (108)

Edging (1 side only, optional): CH1, SC in same ST to round corner. Working down the short edge of the scarf, SC in each row (30). SL ST to the 2^nd corner, fasten off and weave in all ends.

Fringe: Cut about 90 9″ long strands of yarn. (I wrap mine around a 9″ cutting board.) With the textured (right) side of the cowl facing up, and the edging (if you chose to use edging) on the left side, start at one bottom corner and attach them in groups of 3 strands every 4 stitches along the entire bottom edge of the cowl. (If you don’t know how to attach fringe, see video tutorial for guidance.)

Buttons: Attach buttons to bottom of cowl using the diagram shown.

For further help on button placement and wearing the cowl with buttons fastened, please see the video tutorial (toward the end).

Done! If you’re sharing on social media, be sure to hashtag #maliacaland #maliabuttonedcowl and tag me @littlemonkeyscrochet. Hope you enjoyed it!

Thank you Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this pattern!

I had the opportunity to try the new Mandala yarn from Lion Brand and I am sooooo excited about it! If you aren’t familiar with it yet, it’s Lion Brand’s take on the trendy yarn cakes that have taken the crochet world by storm recently. I knew I was going to love Mandala as soon as I heard that it was a #3 light yarn – that immediately set it apart in my mind from all the other versions. And the colors!

Not only are there 16 beautiful color schemes to choose from, but the gradient effect they give is the best I’ve seen in these popular cakes. While not a true gradient, the creators of Mandala yarn were very intentional about their color changes. Instead of 3 or 4 abrupt color jumps, Mandala utilizes light and dark shades of the same color to gradually change from one color to the next. For example, in “Genie” (the sample with the green/white/gray colorway), the yarn started as a dark gray, then switched to medium gray, to grayish-green, to green, to light green, to even lighter green, to white, to lightest gray, to medium gray, and finally on back to the dark gray it began with. What a difference that makes in the overall look!

I decided that a nice simple textured project would be perfect for showing off the pretty colors of this yarn. I’ve been playing with the bean stitch lately, so that’s what I used. I don’t know exactly why this stitch got its name, but I think it looks like an espresso bean, and coffee-related things always make me happy.

I also worked this cowl up in two other fun colors – Sphinx (left) and Chamera (right). Mandala yarn definitely has something for everyone!

What’s really great about this pattern is that it uses all of your Mandala cake without leaving any wasted yarn. That’s always a win for me (and for my overflowing yarn shelf)!

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

SPRING BEAN COWL

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 29″ around x 16″ tall

Hook:  H (5.0mm)

Yarn: 1 full cake of Lion Brand Mandala (or about 590 yards of your favorite #3 light yarn from Lion Brand). Sample is shown in “Genie”.

Gauge: 14 rows of 7 bean stitches = 4″ square. Or, your starting chain should measure about 27-28″.

You’ll also need: Yarn needle

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)

Special Stitch:
   Bean Stitch – Completed, this stitch actually covers the ground of two stitches. Here’s how you do it:

Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch, and skip the next stitch. (You will skip the next stitch every time you do a bean stitch.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of round does not count as a stitch.
(3) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round (spiral). Do notjoin, turn or chain except where instructed.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

Fringe (optional)
Before we make a single stitch, we’re going to cut our fringe. This enables us to have enough yarn for the fringe while still using up every yard of the Mandala cake for the pattern. Since we want our fringe to blend right into the gradient of the pattern, carefully remove the label and find the end of the yarn. (We’ll be pulling from the center while we crochet, so the bottom of the cowl will be the end you find along the outside wall of the cake). Handle your cake with care so that you can slip that label back on it when you’re done.

Find something in your home that is approximately 9″ wide – I used a 9″ cutting board. Wrap the yarn all the way around the object 55 times, keeping it taught, but not pulling super tight (Figure 1). Cut once at the halfway point (Figure 2). Carefully gather the strands in your hand and fold them in half, then cut again at the halfway point (figure 3). You should now have about 110 pieces of fringe. (We only need 100, but usually a few of them end up too short.) Carefully replace the label on your yarn cake, and proceed to the pattern.

For the pattern, use the beginning of the yarn from the center of the yarn cake.

To begin: CH100. Join to first CH with a SL ST, being careful to not twist the chain. (Briana K has an awesome video tutorial here for how to do this perfect every time.) (100)

Round 1: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around. Do not join. (100)

Round 2: Do not chain. Complete a bean stitch in the first SC from the previous round (see “Special Stitch” for instructions). Bean stitch around. (100, or 50 bean stitches)

Rounds 3-52 (or until you almost run out of yarn): Bean Stitch around. (100, or 50 bean stitches)

To finish: After your last completed bean stitch, SC in next ST and SL ST in next ST. Fasten off and weave in ends. In groups of 4 strands, attach fringe every 4 stitches (every other bean).

I love buttoned cowls! I already have 3 on the blog (the Sparkly, the Apple Crisp and the Herringbone Buttoned Cowls), but I’ve been wanting to do a “comfy squares” version for a while. It seemed like a simple project for easing back into pattern designing after my little newborn-snuggles-filled hiatus, so on Henry’s first trip with me to the yarn store, we picked up a few skeins of Lion Brand’s Wool-Ease.

(Henry was a little overwhelmed by all the choices.)

I haven’t used this yarn much at all, but now that I’m reminded of what a nice drape it has, I’m definitely going to be using it more often!

I also picked up these cute wooden buttons. They’re 1-1/8″, and you’ll need two of them in your favorite style.

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COMFY SQUARES BUTTONED COWL

Difficulty: Easyish

Finished Size: 32″ wide x 13.5″ tall (when laid flat)

Hook:  H (5.0mm)

Yarn: About 470 yards of Wool-Ease yarn by Lion Brand (that’s less than 3 skeins). Wool-Ease is a #4 worsted yarn, and the sample is shown in “Natural Heather”.

Gauge: The first 8 rows of the pattern (the ribbing) should measure 2.25″ square.

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 2 buttons (1 1/8″), sewing needle, and thread to match yarn color.

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
BLO (back loops only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
(3) The pattern is divided into 3 parts: the Top Band, the Body, and the Side Band. The pattern as a whole is worked in one piece (there is no sewing at the end).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: CH9.

Top Band, Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (8)

Rows 2-121: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Row 122 (buttonhole): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (6 + CH2)

Row 123: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. 2SC in CH2 space. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Rows 124-125: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Part 2: Body
(Note that for ease of row counting, we are referring to the next row as “Row 1” instead of “Row 126”.)

Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly down the long edge of the piece, putting 1SC in each row. (125)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 57 times; 9 STS remain unworked (and will remain so for the remainder of Part 2). (116)

Rows 3-44: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (116)

Note: At this point, you should be on the same side of the cowl as the buttonhole we made back in Row 122 of the Top Band. If you’re on the opposite side you probably miscounted something, but it’s no big deal; just do one more row to get yourself to where you need to be.

Row 45: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly up the side of the cowl, working toward the buttonhole, putting 1SC in each row until you reach the inner corner where the top band and the body meet. (43 SC)

Part 3: Side Band
(Remember back in Row 2 of the body, when we left 9 stitches unworked? We’re going to be working in those now.)

Side Band, Row 1 (highlighted in yellow in the photo below): SL ST to the closest unworked ST from Row 2 of the body section. CH1. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 unworked STS. SC in both loops of the final unworked ST. (8 SC)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Row 45 of the body. (8, + the 2 SL STS along Row 45)

Row 3: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

Rows 4-21: Repeat rows 2-3. (8)

Row 22 (buttonhole): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 3 STS. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Row 45 of the body. (6SC + CH2 buttonhole, + the 2 SL STS along Row 45)

Row 23: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. 2SC in CH2 space. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Rows 24-43: Repeat rows 2-3. (8)

Row 44: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in the final ST of Row 45 of the body. (8, + 1 SL ST along Row 45)

Edging: CH1, turn. SC evenly around the entire piece, putting 3SC in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the first SC.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Buttons: Lay your cowl flat, with the corner buttonhole at the top left corner. Your first button should be sewn 1.25″ from the bottom edge and 1.25″ from the right edge; your second button should be sewn in line with the first button, 1.25″ from the bottom edge and 7″ from the right edge.

To Wear:

It can feel a bit tricky at first! Start by putting it around your neck with the buttonhole on your left, and the Top Band at the top. The button that is NOT in the corner is the button that will go through the top buttonhole. Once you’ve joined those together, you can slip the corner button through the second buttonhole, then tuck the extra fabric under the cowl. If you need a little extra help, watch this video of the Sparkly Buttoned Cowl (it’s the same style of cowl):

I don’t know about you, but the closer I get to Christmas, the more I tend to start using chunkier yarns. It’s not just because it’s getting colder outside; it’s also because bulky yarn works up faster, and we have a deadline, people!

So if you have someone on your Christmas list who loves cozy accessories, here’s an easy cowl pattern that uses one of my favorite stitches and Woolspun yarn from Lion Brand. (It’s the same yarn, and color, I used in the Rustic Slouch & Infinity Scarf set.)

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CAROLINE COWL

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 28″ around x 11″ tall

Hook: N (9.00mm)

Yarn: About 240 yards (2 skeins) of Lion Brand Woolspun, a bulky #5 yarn.

Gauge: 10 rows of 5 (SK1, SC+HDC in 1) combos = 4″ (see “Abbreviations” below for explanation of SC+HDC)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 5 buttons (1″)

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a SC and an HDC in the same stitch)
   BLO (back loops only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
(3) The buttons are decorative (non-functional).
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: CH6.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (5)

Rows 2-70: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each ST across. (5)

Row 71: CH1; do not turn. Working down the long edge now, put 1 SC in each row. (70)

Row 72-92: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (70)

Edging: CH1, turn. SC evenly around the entire cowl, putting (SC, CH1, SC) in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the first SC.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Buttons
Overlap the two shorter sides of the cowl by about 1″, and use pins to hold it in place. Place and sew 5 buttons evenly spaced down the edge, being sure to sew through both layers.

In my attempt to put out more pattern sets this season, today’s pattern is a match for the previously-released Riverbed Slouch Hat – the Riverbed Cowl!

Just like the matching slouch, this cowl is soooo easy. It uses the same yarns as the hat — Lion Brand’s Tweed Stripes (shown in “Caramel”) and Vanna’s Choice (shown in “Linen”).

Click here to view the slouch hat pattern, or scroll down for the cowl pattern!

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RIVERBED COWL

Level: Easy

Size: 32″ around x 12″ tall

Materials:

• K hook (6.50mm) and I hook (5.5mm)
• Yarn needle
• 170 yards of Yarn A: Lion Brand Tweed Stripes (sample shown in Caramel) and 110 yards of Yarn B: Vanna’s Choice in a coordinating color (sample shown in Linen). Tweed Stripes is a Bulky #5 yarn, and Vanna’s Choice is a Worsted/Aran #4 yarn.
• Stitch marker (a bobby pin works great)

Gauge:
With larger hook, 6 rows of 7 HDC & SC (alternate each row) = 2″ square. (Gauge is not crucial in this pattern, as instructions for obtaining the correct final measurements are given throughout the pattern.)

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:

(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) After you create the ribbed band, this pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round. Do not join, chain or turn until instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
(3) In the pattern for the Slouch Hat, which was released first, the thicker #5 weight yarn was used first and was referred to as “Yarn A”, with the thinner #4 weight yarn being referred to as “Yarn B”. For consistency, I decided to keep those designations in this pattern even though we start with the thinner #4 weight yarn this time. (In case you were wondering why I start with “Yarn B” below.)

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using smaller hook and Yarn B, CH7.

Row 1:  SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (6)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 4 STS. SC in last ST. (6)

Rows 3-92 (or until ribbing is about 28″ long): Repeat Row 2. (6)

Fasten off and use your tail to sew the short ends of the ribbing together to form a circle.

Body
Switch to larger hook. Attach Yarn A at the seam of the ribbing and CH1. We will now work in continuous rounds.

Round 1: SC evenly around the entire circle, putting 1SC in each ribbing row. (92)

Round 2: HDC in each ST around. (92)

Round 3: SC in each ST around. (92)

Rounds 4-27 (or until cowl measures about 11″ tall): Repeat Rounds 2 & 3. (92)

Attach Yarn B and switch back to smaller hook.

Rounds 28-31: SC in each ST around. (92)

Round 32: SC in each of the first 90 STS. SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. (92)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Every season, there seems to be one pattern that I am crazy excited about. I try to never put out anything that I’m not proud of, but there’s always one pattern that I think of as the highlight of my season. Last year it was the Rustic Slouch & Infinity Scarf set, and the year before that, the Sandy Cowl. This year, it’s the Shiplap Slouch & Cowl set, hands down!

Made with my favorite yarn, Cascade Longwood Sport, this set combines 3 of my favorite things: 3rd Loop HDC, Herringbone HDC, and fringe.

I actually designed the Shiplap Slouch a couple of months ago while on vacation in South Haven, Michigan:

And after I finished it, I just knew it needed a matching accessory, so I ordered more yarn and made a cowl!

I love me some fringe, but of course, it’s up to you if you want to add it.

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SHIPLAP COWL

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 27″ around x 10.5″ tall (not including fringe)

Hook: H (5.00mm)

Yarn: Approximately 370 yards of Cascade Longwood Sport, a #3 light yarn.

Gauge: 8 rows of 9 HHDC = 2″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker

Abbreviations Used:
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
HDC (half double crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round until the band. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds and do not join, turn or chain unless instructed to do so.
(3) Since we are working in a seamless round, your ribbing rows will not meet up perfectly in the back. This is unavoidable, and the alternative (joining each round) is much, much more obvious. (Trust me, I tried it.)
(4) Pattern uses regular HDC to set up each ribbing row. The abbreviation is very similar to HHDC, so pay attention!
(5) To find the “3rd loop” (as mentioned in Round 13 and every 4 rows after that), reach over your top loops and insert your hook into the loop just past (below) the top loop that is furthest from you. (Also called the Camel Stitch or RibHDC.)

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: CH120. Join, being careful not to twist the chain. (Briana K has a brilliantly easy tutorial on how to get this right every time – click here to view!)

Round 1: CH1; HHDC in each ST around. (120)

Rounds 2-7: HHDC in each ST around. (120)

Round 8: HDC in each ST around. (120)

Round 9: HHDC in 3rd loop of each ST around. (120)

Round 10: HHDC in each ST around. (120)

Round 11: HHDC in each ST around. (120)

Round 12: HDC in each ST around. (120)

Rounds 13-37: Repeat Rounds 9-12. (120)

Rounds 38-39: HHDC in each ST around. (120)

Round 40: HHDC in each of the first 116 STS (4 STS remain). SC in each of the next 2 STS. SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. (120)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Fringe
Cut about 100 pieces of 9″ long fringe. Take 4 pieces of fringe at a time and, using your hook, attach them along the bottom of the cowl at every 5 stitches.

Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!

I knew as soon as I made the Carlyle Slouch that it needed a matching cowl. Besides the fact that my readers are always asking for patterns in sets, which I’m trying to do more of, I just love color-blocking and was so happy with how the hat came together that a cowl seemed like a natural next step!

For this pattern, I used the same 3 neutral colors from Cascade Yarn’s Longwood line (which has soooo many color options) as I did for the slouch hat. Longwood is one of my absolute all-time favorite yarns; I used it in the Herringbone Baby Hat, Easy Herringbone Earwarmer, Super Plush Infinity Scarf, and the Yenni and South Haven Slouches (the latter two use the sport weight version of the yarn). I honestly can’t get enough of its softness, drape and amazing stitch definition!

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All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

CARLYLE COWL

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 12″ tall x 29″ around

Hook: I (5.50mm)

Yarn: Approximately 350 yards of Cascade Longwood, a #4 medium yarn. Broken down, you will need about 120 yards of Color A, 115 yards of Color B, and 115 yards of Color C. I used colors “Oatmeal”, “Doeskin Heather” and “Walnut”, respectively.

Gauge: 7 rows of 8 HHDC = 2″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker

Abbreviations Used:
   ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
BLO (back loop only)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round after the band. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds and do not join unless instructed to do so.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

RIBBED BAND

To begin: With COLOR A, CH9.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (8)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Rows 3-116: Repeat Row 2. (8)

Fasten off leaving a 12″ tail. Use tail to sew the last and first rows together to form a circular shape. Weave in both ends. Reattach COLOR A at the seam and continue to instructions for “Body”.

BODY

We are now working in continuous rounds. Do not join or chain unless specifically instructed.

Round 1: CH1; HHDC in each ribbing row around. (116)

Rounds 2-7: HHDC in each ST around. (116)

Attach COLOR B; fasten off COLOR A.

Rounds 8-20: HHDC in each ST around. (116)

Attach COLOR C; fasten off COLOR B.

Rounds 21-32: HHDC in each ST around. (116)

Round 33: HHDC in each of the first 112 STS; 4 STS remain. SC in each of the next 2 STS. SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.