Category: Bags + Purses

  • Cinch Bag Series: The Zig Zag Bag

    Cinch Bag Series: The Zig Zag Bag

    This bright and colorful backpack is my 2nd design in a small series of artistic backpacks that are super simple to create! The Zig Zag Bag features five colors of yarn in a loose striping pattern, with some simple zigzags added at the end to give it a little extra oomph.

    And can I brag about my middle child for a moment? This kid is always ready and willing to help me with blog stuff when I need it, even if it means modeling a “kinda girly bag” (his words). He’s always been interested in how I run my business, and I won’t be a bit surprised if he becomes an entrepreneur himself one day!

    About the Cinch Bag Series

    All designs in the Cinch Bag Series are made with the same pattern (all single crochet!), and use variations in color and surface detailing to produce unique designs with tons of personality. These easy-level patterns will make any newbie crocheter feel like a seasoned pro.

    Here are each of the bags currently included in the collection:

    About the Yarn

    All of the samples I created for my Cinch Bag Series use Sarasota, a yarn by Cascade Yarns. Sarasota is a blend of cotton and acrylic in a #3 light weight. It’s soft enough to crochet with comfort, but sturdy enough to make a great bag. It comes in solids and heathers, and I’ve used both throughout the series.

    With its large range of color options, it’s safe to say that Sarasota is my new favorite cotton blend for bags. (And you know how I love making bags!)

    Want to try Sarasota for yourself? I’ve found it at LoveCrafts, WEBS, and The Yarn Lady!

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    GIVEAWAY WITH LOVECRAFTS.COM!

    A great place to find the yarn for any of the patterns in the Cinch Bag Series is LoveCrafts.com! LoveCrafts is a global Makers community offering all kinds of yarn and supplies for crocheters, knitters, and more. I’ve bought yarn from them several times, and they always deliver quick service and quality!

    LoveCrafts offered to provide the necessary yarn for the Mudcloth Bag as part of a fun giveaway. So be sure to enter below! The winner will receive two skeins of Sarasota and a 50yd roll of 3mm macrame cord for the Mudcloth Bag pattern, as well as some extra yarn-lovers’ goodies. The giveaway runs through the end of Saturday, July 4, and the winner will be announced soon after. (See Terms and Conditions for details.) Best of luck!

    a Rafflecopter giveaway

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Zig Zag Bag

    View on Ravelry

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 11″ wide x 14.75″ tall when laid flat (before assembly)

    Yarn: Approx. 525 yards of #3 (light) cotton or cotton/acrylic blend. I used Sarasota, a cotton/acrylic blend from Cascade Yarn, in 5 colors:

    • COLOR A (“Black”): 60 yards
    • COLOR B (“Lunar Rock”): 140 yards
    • COLOR C (“Deep Violet”): 120 yards
    • COLOR D (“Turquoise”): 120 yards
    • COLOR E (“White”): 85 yards

    Hook: E (3.5mm)

    Gauge: 21 SC x 24 rows = 4″ square

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, ruler, and 3 yards of 3mm macrame cord (or other chosen material for drawstring backpack strap)

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    FLO (front loop only)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) You may choose to fasten off after each color change or carry your yarn up through the inside of the bag. I did a mixture of both, depending on how soon I would be using the same color again.
    (3) Your seam WILL be on a slant. This is due to the fact that we are joining but not turning our rounds; the slight offset of a crochet stitch’s top loops in relation to its base cause this slant to happen naturally. The only way to avoid the slant is to turn each round, but it results in a busier-looking fabric that doesn’t showcase the detailing of the bag nearly as well.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Instructions

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
    PATTERN FOR BAG
    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    To Begin: With COLOR A, CH57.

    Round 1: Working into the back bumps, SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Working in FLO down the opposite side of the chain, SC across. (You have now worked in both sides of each chain.) Join. (112)

    Rounds 2-82: CH1, SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join. (112) Use the following color pattern:

    Rounds 2-8 (8 rounds total, including Round 1): COLOR A
    Rounds 9-12 (4 rounds): COLOR B
    Rounds 13-16 (4 rounds): COLOR C
    Rounds 17-18 (2 rounds): COLOR D
    Rounds 19-20 (2 rounds): COLOR E
    Rounds 21-22 (2 rounds): COLOR D
    Rounds 23-26 (4 rounds): COLOR C
    Rounds 27-34 (8 rounds): COLOR B
    Rounds 35-36 (2 rounds): COLOR E
    Rounds 37-40 (4 rounds): COLOR D
    Rounds 41-42 (2 rounds): COLOR E
    Rounds 43-46 (4 rounds): COLOR B
    Rounds 47-50 (4 rounds): COLOR C
    Rounds 51-52 (2 rounds): COLOR D
    Rounds 53-54 (2 rounds): COLOR E
    Rounds 55-56 (2 rounds): COLOR D
    Rounds 57-60 (4 rounds): COLOR C
    Rounds 61-64 (4 rounds): COLOR B
    Rounds 65-66 (2 rounds): COLOR E
    Rounds 67-70 (4 rounds): COLOR D
    Rounds 71-72 (2 rounds): COLOR E
    Rounds 73-76 (4 rounds): COLOR B
    Rounds 77-80 (4 rounds): COLOR C
    Rounds 81-82 (2 rounds): COLOR D

    After Round 82 is complete, fasten off and weave in ends.

    Lay bag flat, seam side facing down. Locate the rightmost top stitch (leftmost for lefties) and attach COLOR E in that stitch; proceed to Round 83.

    Round 83 (drawstring holes): CH1. SC in same ST and in next ST. CH3, SK 3 STS. (SC in each of the next 4 STS, CH3, SK 3 STS) around until only 2 STS remain. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Join. (16 drawstring holes)

    Round 84: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around, putting 3SC in each CH3 space. Join. (112)

    Rounds 85-86: Switch to COLOR D. CH1, SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join. (112)

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
    SURFACE DETAILING
    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Using a yarn needle and COLOR A, add the surface detailing to the bag using the charts below. For this bag, the detailing is added to each section of COLOR B.

    Hint: Click the image to make it larger on your screen. (I provided one color version and one black-and-white version; use whichever you find most helpful.)

    Click image to enlarge

    Here area few tips for adding the detailing:

    1. Do each section separately. Cut your yarn first (each section will take a couple of yards), then start in the inside of the bag so that your starting tail can be woven in on the inside.
    2. Start each section right at the seam.
    3. Try adding all of the lines that go in the SAME direction before coming back around to add the remaining lines. (So instead of sewing like this: /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ , sew all of the / / / / / / / / and then come back and do the \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ .) This will help your lines to look more consistent.
    4. If you run out of yarn before finishing a section, that’s ok! Just finish off with an additional strand.
    5. Don’t be alarmed that your surface stitches slant just a bit. This is due to the nature of crochet stitches worked in unturned rounds.
    Our bag so far

    Please note that the images that follow are of a different bag from the Cinch Bag Collection, but all use the same techniques for shaping and adding drawstrings and tabs.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
    SHAPING THE BOTTOM
    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    We’re going to use a simple trick to give our bag a little roominess at the bottom.

    (If you need help visualizing this, I use the technique in my video tutorial for the Malia Shoulder Bag at timestamp 28:50.)

    With the bag inside out, turn it upside down and position the bottom so that one end lays out in a triangular shape, with the seam going up the center. Use a ruler and measure a 3″ line across the corner of the base (mark the line with tape if it helps). Sew a seam across the line (through both layers) with COLOR A. Repeat on the opposite side.

    Make sure all yarn is woven in, then turn bag right-side out. Here’s what it should look like on the bottom:

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
    PATTERN FOR DRAWSTRING TABS
    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Next, we’ll make some little tabs to secure the ends of our drawstrings to the backpack. Use the following pattern to make two tabs:

    To begin: With COLOR A, CH7.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (6)

    Rows 2-6: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (6)

    Fasten off leaving a 12″ finishing tail for sewing. Weave in starting tail.

    Now, let’s attach them.

    Step 1: Turn your bag so that the seam is facing UP. Locate the triangle on the bottom-left corner of the bag, formed when you shaped the bottom. Then, locate the edge of the triangle that is on the seamed side of the bag (pink arrow). This is the side to which we’ll attach our first tab.

    Step 2: Using a yarn needle and the finishing tail, fold the tab over and sew it centered along the edge of the triangle. Work your yarn needle through a couple of stitches on the triangle edge as well as both top and bottom edges of the tab, so that you are sewing the tab closed while also attaching it to the bag.

    Step 3: When finished, weave the tail into the inside of the bag.

    Attach the second tab to the triangle at the bottom-right corner of the bag, again using the edge of the triangle that is on the seamed side of the bag.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
    ADDING DRAWSTRING
    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Cut two 1.5 yard lengths of macrame cord. Lay bag flat and locate the furthermost hole to the right; starting from the outside, thread the first length of cord through the hole and then, working leftward, proceed to weave it in and out of each hole around the entire bag. You should end up with the cord exiting the bag through the hole next to your starting hole. 

    Do the same thing with the other 1.5 yard length of cord, starting in the leftmost hole and working rightward, continuing around the entire bag. (Both cords will be entering and exiting the same drawstring holes, in opposite directions.)

    Take each pair of drawstring ends and thread them through their corresponding tabs at the bottom of the bag. Tie ends together in a knot beneath each tab. Don’t cut off the excess yet.

    Cinch the backpack and wear it to test the length of your drawstrings, then readjust knot placement as needed. Trim off excess cord.

    Done!

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Don’t forget to share your finished project!

    Share it on FB, in our FB group, in other groups, on Instagram… wherever you want to spread joy! Be sure to and tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see it, too!

  • Cinch Bag Series: The Fading Stripes Bag

    Cinch Bag Series: The Fading Stripes Bag

    This backpack, based on my Linen Stitch Baby Blanket color pattern, is my 3rd design in a small series of artistic backpacks that are super simple to create! The Fading Stripes Bag features three colors, using a striping pattern that creatively transitions from one color to the next.

    About the Cinch Bag Series

    All designs in the Cinch Bag Series are made with the same pattern (all single crochet!), and use variations in color and surface detailing to produce unique designs with tons of personality. These easy-level patterns will make any newbie crocheter feel like a seasoned pro.

    Here are each of the bags currently included in the collection:

    About the Yarn

    All of the samples I created for my Cinch Bag Series use Sarasota, a yarn by Cascade Yarsn. Sarasota is a blend of cotton and acrylic in a #3 light weight. It’s soft enough to crochet with comfort, but sturdy enough to make a great bag. It comes in solids and heathers, and I’ve used both throughout the series.

    With its large range of color options, it’s safe to say that Sarasota is my new favorite cotton blend for bags. (And you know how I love making bags!)

    GIVEAWAY WITH LOVECRAFTS.COM!

    A great place to find the yarn for any of the patterns in the Cinch Bag Series is LoveCrafts.com! LoveCrafts is a global Makers community offering all kinds of yarn and supplies for crocheters, knitters, and more. I’ve bought yarn from them several times, and they always deliver quick service and quality!

    LoveCrafts offered to provide the necessary yarn for the Mudcloth Bag as part of a fun giveaway. So be sure to enter below! The winner will receive two skeins of Sarasota and a 50yd roll of 3mm macrame cord for the Mudcloth Bag pattern, as well as some extra yarn-lovers’ goodies. The giveaway runs through the end of Saturday, July 4, and the winner will be announced soon after. (See Terms and Conditions for details.) Best of luck!

    a Rafflecopter giveaway

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Fading Stripes Bag

    View on Ravelry

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 11″ wide x 14.75″ tall when laid flat (before assembly)

    Yarn: Approx. 510 yards of #3 (light) cotton or cotton/acrylic blend. I used Sarasota, a cotton/acrylic blend from Cascade Yarn, in 3 colors:

    • COLOR A (“Navy”): 195 yards
    • COLOR B (“White”): 170 yards
    • COLOR C (“Deep Violet”): 145 yards

    Hook: E (3.5mm)

    Gauge: 21 SC x 24 rows = 4″ square

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, ruler, and 3 yards of 3mm macrame cord (or other chosen material for drawstring backpack strap)

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    FLO (front loop only)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) You may choose to fasten off after each color change or carry your yarn up through the inside of the bag. For this bag, I carried each color up until I was finished with it.
    (3) Your seam WILL be on a slant. This is due to the fact that we are joining but not turning our rounds; the slight offset of a crochet stitch’s top loops in relation to its base cause this slant to happen naturally. The only way to avoid the slant is to turn each round, but it results in a busier-looking fabric that doesn’t showcase the detailing of the bag nearly as well.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Instructions

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
    PATTERN FOR BAG
    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    To Begin: With COLOR A, CH57.

    Round 1: Working into the back bumps, SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Working in FLO down the opposite side of the chain, SC across. (You have now worked in both sides of each chain.) Join. (112)

    Rounds 2-82: CH1, SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join. (112) Use the following color pattern:

    Rounds 2-22 (22 rounds total, including Round 1): COLOR A
    Round 23 (1 round): COLOR B
    Rounds 24-27 (4 rounds): COLOR A
    Rounds 28-29 (2 rounds): COLOR B
    Rounds 30-32 (3 rounds): COLOR A
    Rounds 33-35 (3 rounds): COLOR B
    Rounds 36-37 (2 rounds): COLOR A
    Rounds 38-41 (4 rounds): COLOR B
    Round 42 (1 round): COLOR A
    Rounds 43-47 (5 rounds): COLOR B
    Round 48 (1 round): COLOR C
    Rounds 49-52 (4 rounds): COLOR B
    Rounds 53-54 (2 rounds): COLOR C
    Rounds 55-57 (3 rounds): COLOR B
    Rounds 58-60 (3 rounds): COLOR C
    Rounds 61-62 (2 rounds): COLOR B
    Rounds 63-66 (4 rounds): COLOR C
    Round 67 (1 round): COLOR B
    Rounds 68-82 (15 rounds): COLOR C

    After Round 82 is complete, fasten off and weave in ends.

    Lay bag flat, seam side facing down. Locate the rightmost top stitch (leftmost for lefties) and attach COLOR C in that stitch; proceed to Round 83.

    Round 83 (drawstring holes): CH1. SC in same ST and in next ST. CH3, SK 3 STS. (SC in each of the next 4 STS, CH3, SK 3 STS) around until only 2 STS remain. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Join. (16 drawstring holes)

    Round 84: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around, putting 3SC in each CH3 space. Join. (112)

    Rounds 85-86: CH1, SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join. (112)

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

    Our bag so far

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
    SHAPING THE BOTTOM
    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    We’re going to use a simple trick to give our bag a little roominess at the bottom.

    (If you need help visualizing this, I use the technique in my video tutorial for the Malia Shoulder Bag at timestamp 28:50.)

    With the bag inside out, turn it upside down and position the bottom so that one end lays out in a triangular shape, with the seam going up the center. Use a ruler and measure a 3″ line across the corner of the base (mark the line with tape if it helps). Sew a seam across the line (through both layers) with COLOR A. Repeat on the opposite side.

    Make sure all yarn is woven in, then turn bag right-side out. Here’s what it should look like on the bottom:

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
    PATTERN FOR DRAWSTRING TABS
    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Next, we’ll make some little tabs to secure the ends of our drawstrings to the backpack. Use the following pattern to make two tabs:

    To begin: With COLOR A, CH7.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (6)

    Rows 2-6: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (6)

    Fasten off leaving a 12″ finishing tail for sewing. Weave in starting tail.

    Now, let’s attach them.

    Step 1: Turn your bag so that the seam is facing UP. Locate the triangle on the bottom-left corner of the bag, formed when you shaped the bottom. Then, locate the edge of the triangle that is on the seamed side of the bag (pink arrow). This is the side to which we’ll attach our tab.

    Step 2: Using a yarn needle and the finishing tail, fold the tab over and sew it centered along the edge of the triangle. Work your yarn needle through a couple of stitches on the triangle edge as well as both top and bottom edges of the tab, so that you are sewing the tab closed while also attaching it to the bag.

    Step 3: When finished, weave the tail into the inside of the bag.

    Attach the second tab to the triangle at the bottom-right corner of the bag, again using the edge of the triangle that is on the seamed side of the bag.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
    ADDING DRAWSTRING
    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Cut two 1.5 yard lengths of macrame cord. Lay bag flat and locate the furthermost hole to the right; starting from the outside, thread the first length of cord through the hole and then, working leftward, proceed to weave it in and out of each hole around the entire bag. You should end up with the cord exiting the bag through the hole next to your starting hole. 

    Do the same thing with the other 1.5 yard length of cord, starting in the leftmost hole and working rightward, continuing around the entire bag. (Both cords will be entering and exiting the same drawstring holes, in opposite directions.)

    Take each pair of drawstring ends and thread them through their corresponding tabs at the bottom of the bag. Tie ends together in a knot beneath each tab. Don’t cut off the excess yet.

    Cinch the backpack and wear it to test the length of your drawstrings, then readjust knot placement as needed. Trim off excess cord.

    Done!

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Don’t forget to share your finished project!

    Share it on FB, in our FB group, in other groups, on Instagram… wherever you want to spread joy! Be sure to hashtag #yarnstashchallenge and tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see it, too!

  • Cinch Bag Series: The Mudcloth Bag

    Cinch Bag Series: The Mudcloth Bag

    The very first bag in my Cinch Bag Series is my absolute favorite. The inspiration for it came from traditional African mudcloth, a beautiful handmade cotton fabric that has been a part of Malian culture since the 12th century. And while my hook-and-yarn version isn’t exactly comparable to the fascinating way that genuine mudcloth is made (using fermented mud and plant dyes), I am still in love with this bag!

    (While I was photographing the samples, my middle and youngest boys came outside to play and I convinced them to model for me. They were great sports!)

    About the Cinch Bag Series

    All designs in the Cinch Bag Series are made with the same pattern (all single crochet!), and use variations in color and surface detailing to produce unique designs with tons of personality. These easy-level patterns will make any newbie crocheter feel like a seasoned pro.

    Here are each of the bags currently included in the collection:

    About the Yarn

    All of the samples I created for my Cinch Bag Series use Sarasota, a yarn by Cascade Yarns. Sarasota is a blend of cotton and acrylic in a #3 light weight. It’s soft enough to crochet with comfort, but sturdy enough to make a great bag. It comes in solids and heathers, and I’ve used both throughout the series.

    With its large range of color options, it’s safe to say that Sarasota is my new favorite cotton blend for bags. (And you know how I love making bags!)

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Giveaway: WIN the yarn + cord for this project!

    A great place to find the yarn for any of the patterns in the Cinch Bag Series is LoveCrafts.com! LoveCrafts is a global Makers community offering all kinds of yarn and supplies for crocheters, knitters, and more. I’ve bought yarn from them several times, and they always deliver quick service and quality!

    LoveCrafts offered to provide the necessary yarn for the Mudcloth Bag as part of a fun giveaway. So be sure to enter below! The winner will receive two skeins of Sarasota and a 50yd roll of 3mm macrame cord for the Mudcloth Bag pattern, as well as some extra yarn-lovers’ goodies. The giveaway runs through the end of Saturday, July 4, and the winner will be announced soon after. (See Terms and Conditions for details.) Best of luck!

    a Rafflecopter giveaway

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Mudcloth Bag

    View on Ravelry

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 11″ wide x 14.75″ tall when laid flat (before assembly)

    Yarn: Approx. 550 yards of #3 (light) cotton or cotton/acrylic blend. I used Sarasota, a cotton/acrylic blend from Cascade Yarn, in 2 colors:

    • COLOR A (“Navy Solid”): 300 yards
    • COLOR B (“White”): 250 yards

    Hook: E (3.5mm)

    Gauge: 21 SC x 24 rows = 4″ square

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, ruler, and 3 yards of 3mm macrame cord (or other chosen material for drawstring backpack strap)

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    FLO (front loop only)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) You may choose to fasten off after each color change or carry your yarn up through the inside of the bag. For this bag, I chose to carry both colors.
    (3) Your seam WILL be on a slant. This is due to the fact that we are joining but not turning our rounds; the slight offset of a crochet stitch’s top loops in relation to its base cause this slant to happen naturally. The only way to avoid the slant is to turn each round, but it results in a busier-looking fabric that doesn’t showcase the detailing of the bag nearly as well.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Instructions

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
    PATTERN FOR BAG
    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    To Begin: With COLOR A, CH57.

    Round 1: Working into the back bumps, SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Working in FLO down the opposite side of the chain, SC across. (You have now worked in both sides of each chain.) Join. (112)

    Rounds 2-82: CH1, SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join. (112) Use the following color pattern:

    Rounds 2-8 (8 rounds total, including Round 1): COLOR A
    Rounds 9-13 (5 rounds): COLOR B
    Rounds 14-17 (4 rounds): COLOR A
    Rounds 18-19 (2 rounds): COLOR B
    Round 20 (1 round): COLOR A
    Rounds 21-25 (5 rounds): COLOR B
    Rounds 26-30 (5 rounds): COLOR A
    Rounds 31-32 (2 rounds): COLOR B
    Rounds 33-37 (5 rounds): COLOR A
    Rounds 38-39 (2 rounds): COLOR B
    Rounds 40-44 (5 rounds): COLOR A
    Rounds 45-52 (8 rounds): COLOR B
    Round 53 (1 round): COLOR A
    Rounds 54-55 (2 rounds): COLOR B
    Rounds 56-60 (5 rounds): COLOR A
    Rounds 61-64 (4 rounds): COLOR B
    Rounds 65-66 (2 rounds): COLOR A
    Round 67 (1 round): COLOR B
    Rounds 68-72 (5 rounds): COLOR A
    Rounds 73-77 (5 rounds): COLOR B
    Round 78 (1 round): COLOR A
    Round 79 (1 round): COLOR B
    Rounds 80-82 (3 rounds): COLOR A

    After Round 82 is complete, fasten off and weave in ends.

    Lay bag flat, seam side facing down. Locate the rightmost top stitch (leftmost for lefties) and attach COLOR A in that stitch; proceed to Round 83.

    Round 83 (drawstring holes): CH1. SC in same ST and in next ST. CH3, SK 3 STS. (SC in each of the next 4 STS, CH3, SK 3 STS) around until only 2 STS remain. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Join. (16 drawstring holes)

    Round 84: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around, putting 3SC in each CH3 space. Join. (112)

    Rounds 85-86: CH1, SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join. (112)

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
    SURFACE DETAILING
    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Using a yarn needle, add the surface detailing to the bag using the chart below. COLOR A is represented by black, and COLOR B is represented by white.

    Here area few tips for adding the detailing:

    1. Do each section separately. Cut your yarn first (each section will take a couple of yards), then start in the inside of the bag so that your starting tail can be woven in on the inside.
    2. Start each section right at the seam.
    3. Try adding all of the lines that go in the SAME direction before coming back around to add the remaining lines. (For example: instead of sewing like this: /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ , sew all of the / / / / / / / / and then come back and do the \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ .) This will help your lines to look more consistent.
    4. If you run out of yarn before finishing a section, that’s ok! Just finish off with an additional strand.
    5. Don’t be alarmed that your surface stitches slant just a bit. This is due to the nature of crochet stitches worked in unturned rounds.
    Our bag so far

    Please note that the images that follow are of a different bag from the Cinch Bag Collection, but all use the same techniques for shaping and adding drawstrings and tabs.

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    SHAPING THE BOTTOM
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    We’re going to use a simple trick to give our bag a little roominess at the bottom.

    (If you need help visualizing this, I use the technique in my video tutorial for the Malia Shoulder Bag at timestamp 28:50.)

    With the bag inside out, turn it upside down and position the bottom so that one end lays out in a triangular shape, with the seam going up the center. Use a ruler and measure a 3″ line across the corner of the base (mark the line with tape if it helps). Sew a seam across the line (through both layers) with COLOR A. Repeat on the opposite side.

    Make sure all yarn is woven in, then turn bag right-side out. Here’s what it should look like on the bottom:

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    PATTERN FOR DRAWSTRING TABS
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    Next, we’ll make some little tabs to secure the ends of our drawstrings to the backpack. Use the following pattern to make two tabs:

    To begin: With COLOR A, CH7.

    Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (6)

    Rows 2-6: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. (6)

    Fasten off leaving a 12″ finishing tail for sewing. Weave in starting tail.

    Now, let’s attach them.

    Step 1: Turn your bag so that the seam is facing UP. Locate the triangle on the bottom-left corner of the bag, formed when you shaped the bottom. Then, locate the edge of the triangle that is on the seamed side of the bag (pink arrow). This is the side to which we’ll attach our first tab.

    Step 2: Using a yarn needle and the finishing tail, fold the tab over and sew it centered along the edge of the triangle. Work your yarn needle through a couple of stitches on the triangle edge as well as both top and bottom edges of the tab, so that you are sewing the tab closed while also attaching it to the bag.

    Step 3: When finished, weave the tail into the inside of the bag.

    Attach the second tab to the triangle at the bottom-right corner of the bag, again using the edge of the triangle that is on the seamed side of the bag.

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    ADDING DRAWSTRING
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    Cut two 1.5 yard lengths of macrame cord. Lay bag flat and locate the furthermost hole to the right; starting from the outside, thread the first length of cord through the hole and then, working leftward, proceed to weave it in and out of each hole around the entire bag. You should end up with the cord exiting the bag through the hole next to your starting hole. 

    Do the same thing with the other 1.5 yard length of cord, starting in the leftmost hole and working rightward, continuing around the entire bag. (Both cords will be entering and exiting the same drawstring holes, in opposite directions.)

    Take each pair of drawstring ends and thread them through their corresponding tabs at the bottom of the bag. Tie ends together in a knot beneath each tab. Don’t cut off the excess yet.

    Cinch the backpack and wear it to test the length of your drawstrings, then readjust knot placement as needed. Trim off excess cord.

    Done!

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    Don’t forget to share your finished project!

    Share it on FB, in our FB group, in other groups, on Instagram… wherever you want to spread joy! Be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see it, too!

  • Simple Drawstring Bag

    Simple Drawstring Bag


    I’ve been on a bag kick lately.

    I don’t know what it is about bags that make them so fun to design. Maybe it’s the fact that they aren’t limited by shape, color, size… there’s a lot of freedom in that!

    This bag is a very simple pattern; it’s crocheted in a single color, and the striping is added at the end using a surface crochet technique. The macrame cord drawstring is a classic braid, decorated with cute wooden beads (optional). It’s the perfect size to carry your essentials or a small yarn project.

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    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

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    Simple Drawstring Bag

    View on Ravelry

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 11″ wide* x 13.5″ tall, when laid flat.
    *Before adding the surface stitching, bag will measure closer to 12″ wide; surface crocheting tightens it a bit.

    Yarn: I used 2 strands of Cascade Yarns Sarasota (#3 weight cotton/acrylic blend) held together, but you can use whatever you have! A single-stranded aran or bulky weight yarn will work just fine, and you’ll only need about half the yardage; although it may alter your finished measurements a bit.

    COLOR A (“Navy”): 500 yards
    COLOR B (“Deep Violet”): 70 yards

    Hook: I (5.5mm)

    Gauge: Your first 6 rounds should = 3″.

    You’ll also need: 6 yards of 3mm macrame cord, or other chosen material for drawstring strap.

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    CSC (crossed single crochet – see Special Stitches)
    Surface Crochet (see Special Stitches

    Special Stitches:

    • Crossed Single Crochet (CSC): Insert your hook, yarn under*, draw yarn through stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops. (*This is the only difference between a crossed single crochet and a standard single crochet, for which you would yarn over after inserting your hook.)
    • Surface Crochet: Surface crocheting is simply slip stitching along the surface of crocheted fabric. If you need a tutorial, there are several available on YouTube.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) Pattern is worked in a seamless spiral. Do not join, chain or turn unless instructed. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the first stitch of your rounds.
    (3) A standard Single Crochet stitch can be substituted for the Crossed Single Crochet stitch if desired.
    (4) Because the bag is worked seamlessly, the decorative surface-crocheted lines added at the end do not join perfectly (see image). This section will be at the back of the bag. The only way to avoid it is to work the entire bag in joined, unturned rounds, producing a slightly diagonal seam but perfectly joined decorative lines.

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    The Pattern

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    BODY OF THE BAG
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    To Begin: With COLOR A double-stranded, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).

    Round 1: 6SC in MC. (6)

    Round 2: 2SC in each ST around. (12)

    Round 3: (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (18)

    Round 4: (SC in next ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (24)

    Round 5: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (30)

    Round 6: (SC in each of the next 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)

    Round 7: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (42)

    Round 8: (SC in each of the next 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (48)

    Round 9: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (54)

    Round 10: (SC in each of the next 4 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (60)

    Round 11: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around. (66)

    Round 12: (SC in each of the next 5 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (72)

    Round 13: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 11 STS) around. (78)

    Round 14: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 38 STS) around. (80)

    Rounds 15-48: CSC in each ST around. (80)

    Round 49 (drawstring holes): (CH2, SK 2 STS, CSC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (48 + 16 CH2 spaces)

    Round 50: CSC in each ST around, putting 2CSC in each CH2 space from the previous round. (80)

    Rounds 51-52: CSC in each ST around. (80)

    Put a stitch marker in the final CSC and leave it there, then SL ST in the first 2 STS of the next round. Fasten off and weave in ends.

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    SURFACE CROCHET ROUNDS
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    Begin with your bag laid flat, with the area where you fastened off face-up and in the center.

    Count down 7 rounds from the top. Between Rounds 7 and 8, with COLOR B double-stranded, surface crochet around the bag. Your end point will be one round off from your starting point; simply add a diagonal surface stitch to connect them. Fasten off and weave in ends.

    Count down 7 more stitches and repeat; do this until you have 5 rounds of surface crochet.

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    DRAWSTRING
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    Follow these steps to assemble the drawstring:

    Make it: Cut 3 lengths of 3mm macrame cord, each 2 yards long. Hold them together and tie a loose knot about 6″ from one end to temporarily secure. Braid. Don’t knot the finishing end yet.

    Set Up Your Bag: Lay bag flat, with the marked stitch at the top center of the side that is face-down.

    Weave the drawstring through: Hold the drawstring strands at the unknotted end together and weave them in and out of the drawstring holes at the top of your bag. Start with the hole just to the left of center, and insert from the outside of the bag toward the inside. Working clockwise, weave in and out of each hole until you’ve used all of them.

    Test the strap length: Holding the drawstring ends together so that they don’t slip out of the holes, grab the part of the drawstring that is on the facedown part of the bag directly across from your entry and exit holes; pull until bag is cinched and drawstring ends are about where you would want them to fall on the front of the bag. Wear it as you would when finished — is it too long for you? If so, you can trim the ends as needed.

    Join the braids: Join the braids by taking two strands from one braid and one strand from the other braid, and braiding them together for about 1″; tie a knot to secure. Take the remaining strands and braid them together the same way; tie a knot to secure.

    Add beads (optional): Add a bead to each strand and tie a knot at the bottom to secure. Trim excess.

    Done!

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    Don’t forget to share your finished project!

    Share it on FB, in our FB group, in other groups, on Instagram… wherever you want to spread creativity! Be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design so I can see it, too!

  • Mosaic Bucket Bag Crochet-Along

    Mosaic Bucket Bag Crochet-Along

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    Click here to get your FREE Mosaic Bucket Bag PDF Planning Guide!

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    First Things First… What’s A CAL?

    ***PLEASE NOTE: THIS CAL HAS FINISHED. YOU CAN STILL FIND THE PATTERN BELOW!***

    A CAL (Crochet-Along) is an online event where a pattern is released in segments over the course of a number of weeks, and a community of crocheters works on it together. The Mosaic Bucket Bag CAL will begin on March 27 and last for 3 weeks. For this CAL, I’ll be keeping everything on this page; I’ll just update the page each time a new part of the pattern is released. The schedule is as follows:

    Pre-Launch: Supply List (published)
    Week 1:     Base (published)
    Week 2: Mosaic Section (published)
    Week 3: Top, Drawstring, + Strap (published)

    What’s the first thing you should do?

    If you haven’t already, you should download your FREE Mosaic Bucket Bag PDF Planning Guide! This 8-page guide will walk you through the complete supply list, explain how the colors are chosen and how they work together, and give you lots of inspiration to fuel your creativity. It even includes a handy checklist so you know exactly what supplies you need and when!

    (FYI, this is optional, and you’ll still be able to follow along with the crochet-along without the Planning Guide… but, I worked really hard on it and I am so excited about it, and I think you’re going to love it!)

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    Click here to view your FREE Mosaic Bucket Bag PDF Planning Guide!

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    Mosaic Bucket Bag on Ravelry

    Ravelry lover? Click here to add the Mosaic Bucket Bag to your Ravelry favorites!

    Join my Crochet-Along Facebook Group

    Life is better together, right? That’s the heart behind a crochet-along, too! If you’re on Facebook and want to join our private group to ask questions, post progress pics, or just meet new friends while you work through the CAL, request your invite by clicking here.

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    Need a little extra help?

    If you’re a visual learner, my tutorial videos are for you! You’ll find the step-by-step tutorials right here when they are published (according to the CAL schedule). Currently available: Video Planning Guide, Part 1: Base, Part 2: Mosaic, and Part 3: Top + Straps.

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    MOSAIC BUCKET BAG

    DIFFICULTY: Easy

    FINISHED SIZES: Please note that measurements are approximate and may vary slightly depending on thickness of yarn used for COLOR C.

    Laid flat:
    Classic size: 12.5” (w) x 13” (h)
    Mini size: 9.5” (w) x 8.5” (h)

    Standing up with flat base, uncinched:
    Classic size:   10” (w) x 5” (d) x 10” (h)
    Mini size:   7.5” (w) x 4” (d) x 7” (h)

    HOOK: F/G (4.0 mm) or whichever hook is needed to obtain correct gauge

    YARN: Bag is comprised of 3 different yarns. For a full explanation of how each yarn is used, please download your FREE PDF Planning Guide or watch the Video Planning Guide.

    COLOR A: #4 worsted weight (preferably cotton) in any color.
    Classic size: 150 yds / Mini size: 100 yds

    COLOR B: #4 worsted weight (same type yarn as COLOR A) in a light color.
    Classic size: 140 yds / Mini size: 70 yds

    COLOR C: Can be any weight, any fiber, as long as it is thinner than COLOR B.  Use darker colors for more contrast.
    Classic size: 150 yds / Mini size: 80 yds

    GAUGE: With COLOR A, 16SC x 20 rows = 4” square

    ADDITIONAL SUPPLIES: 

    • (8) 6mm or 8mm Eyelets. You can find packages of eyelets at craft stores, and they are usually available in colors like silver, gunmetal, and gold. Either size (6mm or 8mm) will work.
    • Eyelet Setting Tool. Sometimes this comes with your eyelets, but may need to be purchased separately. Just be sure to get the right size (6mm or 8mm)! You’ll also need a hammer.
    • (2) 1” D-Rings. Get the same color as the eyelets you chose.
    • (2) Swivel Lobster Clasps. Again, make sure these match your eyelets and D-Rings.
    • Craft Cord, 2mm or 4mm. This is for the drawstring. You’ll need two lengths of 34” each for the Classic size, and for the Mini size, two lengths of 30” each.
    • Shoulder Strap. Nylon or cotton ribbon (sold by the yard) is an economical choice, but feel free to get creative! You’ll also need a needle and thread for sewing it. Choose measurements based on the wearer; for adults, you’ll need about 42”, and for kids, about 30”. Other options include sewing your own from another fabric, or ordering one online.

    TERMS AND ABBREVIATIONS:

    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    Spike Stitch (see Special Stitches, below)

    SPECIAL STITCHES:

    SC Spike Stitch: Instead of inserting your hook into the top loops of the stitch, insert them into its base, then complete an SC. This will wrap your SCs over the top of the SCs from the previous round.

    SL ST Spike Stitch: Follow instructions for SC Spike Stitch, but instead of completing an SC, complete a SL ST.

    NOTES:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1s at the beginning of rounds do not count as a stitch in the final stitch count.
    (3) When instructed to “join”, join with a slip stitch to the first stitch of the round.
    (4) Because we utilize the SC Spike Stitch for entire rounds throughout the pattern, we will be referring to those rounds as an extension of the SC rounds they are being worked into. For example, if Round 32 is a round of SC, then the very next round which places spike stitches on top of those SCs will be referred to as Round 32B. This just makes for easier counting.

    CLASSIC SIZE

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    PART 1: BOTTOM
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    To begin: CH15.

    Round 1: 3SC in 2nd CH from hook, SC in each of the next 12 CH, 3SC in final CH (working around the tail to the other side). Working down the other side of the chain, SC in each of the next 12 CH. Join.  (30)

    Round 2: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. 2SC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 12 STS. 2SC in each of the next 3 STS. Join. (36)

    Round 3: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in next ST. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (42)

    Round 4: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) 3 times. Join. (48)

    Round 5: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (54)

    Round 6: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) 3 times. Join. (60)

    Round 7: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (66)

    Round 8: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS) 3 times. Join. (72)

    Round 9: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (78)

    Round 10: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 8 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 8 STS) 3 times. Join. (84)

    Round 11: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (90)

    Round 12: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 10 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 10 STS) 3 times. DO NOT join. (96)

    We are now switching to a seamless spiral. Do not join, turn or chain until instructed, and mark the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker so you don’t lose your place.

    Round 13: Continuing in the same direction, SC in first ST (the ST you would have joined in, if we had joined the previous round) and in each ST around. Do not join. (96)

    Rounds 14-22: SC in each ST around.

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    PART 2: MOSAIC
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    Switch to COLOR B. For the best transition, use the jogless method (demonstrated in the tutorial video for Part 2).

    Round 23: SL ST in first ST of the round. (If you used the jogless color change method, you will have already done this.)  SC in each remaining ST around. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (96)

    Round 23B: Insert hook into top loops of next ST; attach COLOR C and CH1; SC in same ST. SC SPIKE STITCH into next ST and each remaining ST. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (96)

    Round 24: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. SC in each ST around (you’re working in the top loops of the SC Spike Stitches from the previous round). Remove hook. (96)

    Round 24B: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR C. SC Spike Stitch in each ST around. Remove hook. (96)

    Rounds 25-47B: Repeat Rounds 24-24B. (96)

    Round 48: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. SC in each of the first 95 STS. SL ST in the final ST.  Remove hook. (96)

    Round 48B: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR C. SC Spike Stitch in each of the first 95 STS. SL ST in the remaining ST. Remove hook. (96)

    Fasten off both COLOR B and COLOR C (but don’t weave in ends yet).

    – – – – – – – – – – – –
    PART 3: TOP
    – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Turn bag right side out (if not already so). Fold it lengthwise along the bottom seam, and lay it flat so that the side with the joins and color changes is face up. Locate the stitch that sits atop the right-hand crease. Counting that stitch as #1, count over 8 stitches. Attach COLOR A into that 8th stitch; CH1.

    Round 49: SC in same ST as CH1, and in each ST around. Join. (96)

    Rounds 50-52: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join. (96)

    Round 53: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 11 STS. CH1, SK next ST. (SC in each of the next 11 STS; CH1, SK next ST) 7 times. Join. (96)

    Round 54: CH1, turn. SC in first CH1 space. Continue to SC in each ST around, putting 1SC in each CH1 space. Join. (96)

    Round 55: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 39 STS. SC each of the next 6 STS over a D-Ring. SC in each of the next 42 STS. SC each of the next 6 STS over a D-Ring. SC in each of the remaining 3 STS. Join. (96)

    Round 56: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 3 STS. SC SPIKE STITCH in each of the 6 STS inside the D-Ring. SC in each of the next 42 STS. SC SPIKE STITCH in each of the 6 STS inside the D-Ring. SC in each of the remaining 39 STS. Join. (96)

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

    Proceed to ADDING EYELETS, located after instructions for Mini Size bag.

    – – –

    MINI SIZE

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    PART 1: BOTTOM
    – – – – – – – – – – – –

    To begin: CH15.

    Round 1: 3SC in 2nd CH from hook, SC in each of the next 12 CH, 3SC in final CH (working around the tail to the other side). Working down the other side of the chain, SC in each of the next 12 CH. Join.  (30)

    Round 2: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. 2SC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 12 STS. 2SC in each of the next 3 STS. Join. (36)

    Round 3: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in next ST. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (42)

    Round 4: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) 3 times. Join. (48)

    Round 5: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (54)

    Round 6: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) 3 times. Join. (60)

    Round 7: CH1, turn. 2SC in first ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) 2 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. Join. (66)

    Round 8: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS) 3 times. SC in each of the next 12 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS) 3 times. DO NOT join. (72)

    We are now switching to a seamless spiral. Do not join, turn or chain until instructed, and mark the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker so you don’t lose your place.

    Round 9: Continuing in the same direction, SC in first ST (the ST you would have joined in, if we had joined the previous round) and in each ST around. Do not join. (72)

    Rounds 10-15: SC in each ST around. (72)

    – – – – – – – – – – – –
    PART 2: MOSAIC
    – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Switch to COLOR B. For the best transition, use the jogless method (demonstrated in the tutorial video for Part 2).

    Round 16: SL ST in first ST of the round. (If you used the jogless  color change method, you will have already done this.)  SC in each remaining ST around. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (72)

    Round 16B: Insert hook into top loops of next ST; attach COLOR C and CH1; SC in same ST. SC SPIKE STITCH into next ST and each remaining ST. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (72)

    Round 17: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. SC in each ST around (you’re working in the top loops of the SC Spike Stitches from the previous round). Remove hook. (72)

    Round 17B: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR C. SC Spike Stitch in each ST around. Remove hook. (72)

    Rounds 18-30B: Repeat Rounds 17-17B. (72)

    Round 31: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR B. SC in each of the first 71 STS. SL ST in remaining ST.  Remove hook. (72)

    Round 31B: Reinsert hook into loop from COLOR C. SC Spike Stitch in each of the first 71 STS. SL ST in remaining ST. Remove hook. (72)

    Fasten off both COLOR B and COLOR C (but don’t weave in ends yet).

    – – – – – – – – – – – –
    PART 3: TOP
    – – – – – – – – – – – –

    Turn bag right side out (if not already so). Fold it lengthwise along the bottom seam, and lay it flat so that the side with the joins and color changes is face up. Locate the stitch that sits atop the right-hand crease. Counting that stitch as #1, count over 6 stitches. Attach COLOR A into that 6th stitch; CH1.

    Round 32: SC in same ST as CH1, and in each ST around. Join. (72)

    Round 33: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join. (72)

    Round 34: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 8 STS. CH1, SK next ST. (SC in each of the next 8 STS; CH1, SK next ST) 7 times. Join. (72)

    Round 35: CH1, turn. SC in first CH1 space. Continue to SC in each ST around, putting 1SC in each CH1 space. Join. (72)

    Round 36: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 28 STS. SC each of the next 6 STS over a D-Ring. SC in each of the next 30 STS. SC each of the next 6 STS over a D-Ring. SC in each of the remaining 2 STS. Join. (72)

    Round 37: CH1, turn. SC in each of the first 2 STS. SC SPIKE STITCH in each of the 6 STS inside the D-Ring. SC in each of the next 30 STS. SC SPIKE STITCH in each of the 6 STS inside the D-Ring. SC in each of the remaining 28 STS. Join. (72)

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.

    Proceed to ADDING EYELETS.

    – – – – – – – – – – – –

    ADDING EYELETS

    With eyelets, eyelet setting tool and hammer ready, turn your bag inside out. Follow the instructions on your eyelet kit (or watch my video demonstration!) to add eyelets to each of the eight holes at the top of the bag. 

    – – – – – – – – – – – –

    ADDING DRAWSTRING

    Option 1: Double Side Drawstrings

    Lay bag flat (right side out). Starting on outside of bag, insert first length of craft cord (represented in purple) into the first eyelet on the left. Moving right (counter-clockwise), weave cord in and out through all 8 eyelets around the bag; the last one should exit the bag so that both ends of cord are outside the bag. Make sure bag is uncinched, then bring cord ends together and tie a tight knot close to the bag. Complete with second length of craft cord (represented in navy), but start on the eyelet on the right side of the bag and move left (clockwise).

    Option 2: Single Centered Drawstring

    Lay bag flat (right side out), seam side down. Starting on front of bag, locate center and insert craft cord in first eyelet to the left. Working left (in a clockwise direction), weave cord in and out through all 8 eyelets around the bag; the last one should exit the bag so that both ends of cord are outside the bag and can meet in the center. Make sure bag is uncinched, then bring cord ends together and tie a tight knot close to the bag.

    – – – – – – – – – – – –

    ADDING A STRAP

    The following are very bare-bones instructions for making your own strap, but these instructions are meant specifically for someone like me who is not a seamstress and just needs something basic. Other options include purchasing straps online, or sewing your own from fabric. There are plenty of tutorials on YouTube for this if you are handy with a sewing machine!

    For the rest of us, here’s what I did:

    1. Thread strap through lobster clasp.

    2. Fold the tip of the strap over about 1/2”.

    3. Hold the fold from Step 2 in place and make another fold about 1” down, resting the hardware in that fold.

    4. Use the texture of the material as a guide to sew a straight line across the strap, just below the first fold (as indicated in the photo), going through all three layers.

    – – – – – – – – – – – –

    DONE! If you’re sharing your bag on social media, be sure to use hashtag #mosaicbucketbagcal and tag me @yarnandchai.design!

  • Market Tote Bag

    Market Tote Bag

    Waaaaaay back when I started writing patterns, I wrote a pattern for a Market Tote Bag. The pattern was not especially well-written (hey, I’ve come a long way in 4 years), and was missing some information. I’d always meant to go back and rewrite it, but kept putting it off because it wasn’t a popular pattern. Well, all that changed when some of the girls in my super awesome Facebook group discovered it and started showing off their finished bags, inspiring many others to find and make the pattern as well. I figured I had better get it fixed up!

    So what’s different?

    Besides updated language that better matches my current easy-to-understand pattern lingo, I also changed the yarn I used for a couple different reasons. First of all, the original pattern called for acrylic yarn, which is fine, but since those days I’ve discovered that cotton is so much better for a bag like this. Also, the original pattern called for a #4 weight yarn, but when I went to remake it, I couldn’t get the base as large as it needed to be, no matter what I did. Yup, that’s right – same yarn, same hook, same crocheter, and a completely different tension from 4 years ago! (This is why I’m always saying check your gauge, people!) Anyways, I had to decide whether to stay true to the stitch counts or the yarn weight, and I chose the stitch counts. I switched to a #5 bulky weight yarn called Bernat Maker Home Dec, which is a wonderful, easy yarn to work with. I also upped the hook sizes to accommodate the yarn change.

    So, if you happened to be right in the middle of making the Market Tote Bag from the previous pattern, don’t worry – the pattern, as far as stitch counts go, is the same as it was before.

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

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    MARKET TOTE BAG

    View on Ravelry

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 14″ wide x 16″ tall; straps add an additional 14″ (and they will stretch a bit)

    Yarn: Approx. 435 yards of Bernat Maker Home Dec, a #5 bulky weight cotton/nylon blend. I used 310 yards of COLOR A (“Cream”) and 125 yards of COLOR B (“Clay”).

    Hooks: N (9.00 mm) and K (6.5mm)

    Gauge: With N (9mm) hook, your first 3 rounds should measure 4.5″ across.

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker

    Terms and Abbreviations:
    MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    DC (double crochet)
    SC+DC (put an SC and a DC in the same stitch)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) This bag, including its handles, is worked in a continuous, seamless round. Do not join or turn unless specifically instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds.
    (3) To make this pattern with a different yarn weight, continue to increase the base until it measures about 8.5″ across. You will need to refigure the placement of the straps.
    (4) If you use two colors as I did, your first color will require almost all of the skein. If you run out of yarn too soon, you can remove a round in the body of the bag to accommodate.

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To Begin: With larger hook and COLOR A, make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).

    Round 1: In magic circle: 1SC, 1HDC, 10DC. (12)

    Round 2: 2DC in each ST around. (24)

    Round 3: (2DC in next ST, DC in next ST) around. (36)

    Round 4: (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (48)

    Round 5: (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (60)

    Round 6: (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (72)

    Rounds 7-28: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around. (72)

    Round 29: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) 35 times; 2 STS remain. 2SC in next ST; SK final ST. (72)

    Switch to smaller hook.

    Round 30: SC in each ST around. (72)

    Switch to COLOR B (optional); fasten off COLOR A.

    Rounds 31-36: SC in each ST around. (72)

    Round 37 (creating the handles): CH90. SK 20 STS; SC in each of the next 16 STS. CH90. SK 20 STS; SC in each of the next 16 STS. (32SC + 180CH)

    Round 38: SC in each of the 90 chains. SC in each of the next 16 STS along the top. SC in each of the next 90 chains. SC in each of the next 16 STS along the top. (212)

    Rounds 39-41: SC in each ST around (continuing to go up and down the handles). (212)

    To finish: SL ST to the first SC of the final round. Fasten off and weave in ends.

    Edging the Handles

    We’re going to add an SC edging to give the handles just a little bit more strength. With bag right side out, reattach yarn in the bottom left corner of one of the handles and CH1. SC in same ST, and continue to SC in each chain stitch going up and down the handle. Continue to SC in each ST across the top of the bag (the area between the beginning and the ending of the handle). Join with a SL ST to the first SC. Fasten off yarn, then repeat the process on the other handle. Fasten off and weave in ends.

  • Malia Shoulder Bag CAL

    Malia Shoulder Bag CAL

    First Things First… What’s A CAL?

    A CAL (Crochet-Along) is an online event where a pattern is released in segments over the course of a number of weeks, and a community of crocheters works on it together. The Malia Shoulder Bag CAL will begin on March 13 and last for 3 weeks. For this CAL, I’ll be keeping everything on this page; I’ll just update the page each time a new part of the pattern is released. The schedule is as follows:

    Week 1: Base of bag (available below)
    Week 2: Body of bag (available below)
    Week 3: Seaming, shaping & handles (available now)

    Join my Crochet-Along Facebook Group

    Life is better together, right? That’s the heart behind a crochet-along, too! If you’re on Facebook and want to join our private group to ask questions, post progress pics, or just meet new friends while you work through the CAL, request your invite by clicking here.

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    Choosing Your Yarn

    For the Malia Shoulder Bag, you’ll want to look for a sturdy, worsted weight cotton yarn. I used and highly recommend Lion Brand’s 24/7 Cotton (get it on Craftsy or Amazon); it’s durable, washes beautifully, and is very easy to work with. It is mercerized and comes in 24 bright shades, and whatever color(s) you choose, you can be sure it will deliver amazing stitch definition and just the right amount of sheen. (I also used 24/7 Cotton for my Classic Beach Bag, which I’ve been carrying around as a purse every day since August. I’ve spilled orange pop and coffee on it, stuffed it way too full, and let my son teethe on it, and it looks as nice as it did the day I made it.)

    While I can’t say I’ve ever come across a perfect substitute for 24/7 Cotton, Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton and Knitpicks’ Dishie might be suitable alternatives. If you know of another sturdy worsted cotton, mention it in the comments below!

    Choosing Your Colors

    I chose a silvery gray for the body of the bag and a bright white for a nice contrast at the top. When choosing your colors, keep in mind that a solid color will show off the texture more so than a multi-colored yarn. For a modern look, limit yourself to two colors and keep at least one of them neutral (gray, taupe, white, etc). Or, keep it simple and timeless with a single-colored bag!

    If you’re looking for inspiration, scroll down below the pattern to see a gallery of finished bags created by the CAL participants.

    Everything You Need to Know About Those Rope Handles

    The rope handles are my favorite feature of this bag! You can find rope at pretty much any craft store, sold in packages or by-the-yard; just look for the 3/8″ size. The rope I used was found at Joann Fabrics in the trim section and is technically called “twisted cord”. It’s a cotton/polyester blend and has a casing on it that gives it this really pretty sheen that looks sooooo good with the 24/7 Cotton yarn. The really cool thing about it is that (at least at Joann Fabrics) it was available in several colors! I already had white in mind when I designed the bag, but I can absolutely see myself making other bags and incorporating colored handles. So fun!

    If you’re wondering what those metallic circles are where the rope attaches to my bag – they’re eyelets. I highly recommend them, but I’ve outlined 3 different options  below, and I urge you to read through them to decide which option is best for you:

    Option 1: Eyelet (Or Grommet) Kit
    I used an eyelet kit for my bag, and I know that “I used an eyelet kit” might be a foreign enough phrase to turn many of you off to the idea, but WAIT! It is NOT hard, and it doesn’t take any expensive equipment. But it will give your bag a durability that is unmatched. Combined with the rope (i.e. not crocheted) handles, your bag will be strong and very stretch-resistant. For our purposes, the only difference between eyelets and grommets is how heavy-duty they are; grommets being the tougher of the two. But, for this project I used eyelets, and they worked just fine. It really just comes down to what you can find.

    If you have a Hobby Lobby, you’ll find an eyelet kit in the sewing notions section. You can buy the two-piece setting tool separate for $7.99 and then choose your eyelet color for $2.99 (I picked silver), or you can buy them in a package together but your color options are limited. You’re looking for 15/32″ (12mm) eyelets. Watch for the sale, and you’ll score it all for 50% off. If you go with grommets, I recommend this 1/2″ grommet kit from Amazon, which I used for my Classic Beach Bag.

    Option 2: Washer
    If you don’t want to mess with an eyelet kit, you can also simply thread the rope through a single washer so that it rests between the knot and the bag, which will give the handles something strong to pull on (taking the pressure off of the crocheted part of the bag). It will work basically the same way as an eyelet, it just won’t look as finished and may move around a bit when gravity is not pulling the bag down.

    Option 3: Nothing
    Of course, you can simply stick your rope handles through the hole that we create, tie your knots big enough that they won’t come back through the hole, and call it good. Your bag will stretch more, though.

    Optional Embellishment

    The cute little metal piece on the top of the bag, which on any other bag might show off the purse company’s logo, is actually from the scrapbooking section at Hobby Lobby! (I saw the same ones at Joann Fabrics.) It came in a package of 12, each with a different cutesy phrase. I chose “Live In the Moment” for my bag.

    Malia Shoulder Bag

    Difficulty: Easyish

    Finished Size: 15.5″ width x 12″ height x 6″ depth

    Hook:  E – 3.5mm (I absolutely love my Clover Amour 3.5mm Hook)

    Yarn: Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in 2 colors. 24/7 Cotton is a worsted-weight, mercerized yarn. You will need 675 yards / 4 skeins of COLOR A (I used “Silver”) and 100 yards / 1 skein of COLOR B (I used “White”). If using one color, you’ll need 775 yards total.

    Gauge: 10 rows of 10 SC = 2″ square

    You’ll also need:

    • Yarn needle
    • Scissors
    • Two 36″ lengths of 3/8″ twisted rope for handles (I found mine at Joann Fabrics)
    • Optional but recommended: Either a size 4 (1/2″ diameter) grommet kit (like this one) or a size 15/32″ (12mm) eyelet kit. I thoroughly explain what to look for, how they’re used, and what the difference is between grommets and eyelets in the tutorial video and in the blog post above. You don’t have to add these but they will make your bag much more durable and stretch-resistant.
    • Hammer

    Abbreviations Used:

    ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
    LBS (large bean stitch – see “Special Stitches”)
    BLO (back loop only)
    3rd LOOP (work stitch into 3rd loop only – see “Special Stitches”)

    Special Stitches:

    Large Bean Stitch (LBS)
    Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (6 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over and pull through (8 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 8 loops. Chain 1 to close the stitch. (Because this stitch creates two sets of loops – one when creating the bean, and one when closing the stitch – each completed Large Bean Stitch will count for two stitches in the row or round’s final stitch count.)

    3rd Loop Only
    Half double crochet stitches have a 3rd loop that we utilize in this pattern. When working in turned rows, as in this pattern, the 3rd loop can be found just below the front loop on the side of the work that is facing you. When instructed to work in “3rd loop only”, insert your hook into this special loop. This creates a delicate braided look on the opposite side of the pattern.

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1 at the beginning of rounds does not count as a stitch.
    (3) Tutorial videos will be embedded at the bottom of the pattern. (Click here for a direct link to Part 1, click here for Part 2, and click here for Part 3.) The video tutorials are very helpful – especially the video for Part 2!

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    INSTRUCTIONS

    To begin: With COLOR A, CH157.

    Round 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Place a stitch marker in the final stitch, then join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC, being careful not to twist the round. (156)

    Round 2: CH1. SC in first ST. Place a stitch marker in that stitch.  SC in each remaining ST around. Do not join. (156)

    Note: We are now transitioning to a seamless round. Once you SC in the final stitch for Round 2, which we marked with a stitch marker, you can remove the stitch marker – you don’t need it for now. When you move on to Round 3, instead of chaining up, simply put your first SC right into the first stitch of the previous round (also marked with a stitch marker). Continue on seamlessly, moving that stitch marker up with each round to keep track of the first stitch of the round so that you don’t lose your place.

    Rounds 3-24: SC in each ST around. (156)

    At the completion of Round 24, join to the first ST of the round with a SL ST.

    [Beginning of Part 2]

    Round 25: CH1. HDC in each ST around. Join to the first ST of the round with a SL ST. (156)

    Round 26: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loops of each ST around. Join to the first ST of the round with a SL ST. (156)

    Round 27: CH1, turn. SC in each ST across. Join to the first ST of the round with a SL ST. (156)

    Round 28: CH1, turn. SK first ST, LBS in next ST. (SK next ST, LBS in next ST) across. Join to the first ST of the round with a SL ST. (156)

    Round 29: CH1, turn. HDC in each ST around. Join to the first ST of the round with a SL ST. (156)

    Round 30: CH1, turn. SC in 3rd loops of each ST around. Join to the first ST of the round with a SL ST. (156)

    Rounds 31-62, or until bag measures between 12-13″ high: Repeat Rounds 27-30. (156)

    [Beginning of Part 3]

    Round 63: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join to the first ST of the round with a SL ST.  (156)

    Switch to COLOR B. Fasten off COLOR A.

    We are now switching back to a seamless round. Do not join, chain or turn unless instructed.

    Rounds 64-68: Do not chain up or turn. SC in first ST and in each ST around. Do not join. (156)

    Round 69: SC in each of the first 24 STS. CH2; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 24 STS. CH2; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 48 STS. CH2; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 24 STS. CH2; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 24 STS. (144 SC + 4 CH2 holes)

    Round 70: SC in each ST around, putting 3SC in each CH2 space from previous round. (156)

    Rounds 71-72: SC in each ST around. (156)

    Round 73: SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC of the round. (156)

    Round 74: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC of the round. (156)

    Fasten off. Use your starting tail to sew the gap between the first and last stitches of Round 1 closed, then weave it, and all of your other ends, in.

    – – – – – – – – – – –

    ATTACH EYELETS OR GROMMETS

    Open your eyelet or grommet kit and retrieve the following items:

    Turn your bag inside out, and follow the instructions on your eyelet/grommet kit to add eyelets/grommets to each of the four holes at the top of the bag. (Please note that if your instructions include anything about punching a hole in the fabric, you do not need to do this step because we crocheted holes right into our fabric.) Watch my tutorial video for a step-by-step on how to set grommets or eyelets with a hammer.

    – – – – – – – – – – –

    SEWING THE BOTTOM

    Keeping the bag inside out, lay it flat, lining up the grommets. Use COLOR A (a length about 5x the width of the bag) to sew the bottom of the bag closed, stitch by stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends.

    With the bag still inside out, turn it upside down and position the bottom so that one end lays out in a triangular shape, with the seam centered. Use a ruler and a piece of tape to measure and mark a 5″ line across the corner of the base. Sew a seam across the line (through both layers) with COLOR A. Repeat on the opposite side. This will make the inside of the bag roomy.

    Turn bag right-side out. Here’s what it should look like on the inside:

    And here’s what it should look like on the bottom:

    – – – – – – – – – – –

    ADDING ROPE HANDLES

    Take your first rope handle and insert it through one of the eyelets, going from the inside of the bag to the outside. Tie a knot near the bottom of the rope on the outside of the bag and pull it tight (you can use your eyelet to help by gently but firmly pulling the rope from the inside of the bag, which will pull the knot against the eyelet and tighten it up). Then, use good scissors to cut the excess rope about 1/2″ below the knot.

    If your rope looks like mine, it will have a couple strands of thread (“casing”) wrapped tightly around each twist. These are pretty easy to locate by gently pulling on the tips of the yarn. When you find them, pull them away from the yarn right up to the knot. Then use scissors to cut them off at that point. Give the exposed thread a little ruffle with your fingers; this will give your handles that classic weathered tassel look.

    Repeat these instructions with the other end of the same rope (attaching it through the other eyelet on the same side of the bag) to complete your first handle. Then, do everything again for the 2nd handle on the other side. Note that you’ll want both handles to be the same length, so be sure to compare them when you’re about to tie your final knot to ensure that the handle sizes match.

    – – – – – – – – – – –

    That’s it – you’re done! If you’re showing off your work, be sure to hashtag #maliashoulderbag!

    Video Tutorials: Parts 1+2

    Finished Projects

    The beautiful bags created by the crochet-along participants are just… well… beautiful! Everyone made their bag their own by choosing different color combinations, embellishments, and even handle styles. If you’re looking for inspiration for your own bag, look no further! (All photos are used with permission and remain the property of their original owners.)

  • Classic Beach Bag (Adult & Child Sizes)

    Classic Beach Bag (Adult & Child Sizes)

    Thank you Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this pattern!

    Summer is in full swing here, and we Michiganders work hard to enjoy every sunny day we possibly can since our mitten state is icy cold for half the year.  So when the temperatures heat up, we trade in powdery white snow for sandy white beaches. I may be a little bias, but I think we have some of the most beautiful beaches around. (Here’s my proof!)

    I promised you guys a full-sized beach bag a couple of months ago when I published this little mini beach bag gift card holder. Baby Henry has kept this mama’s hands full, so crocheting time has been really limited these days… but it’s finally here! And let me tell you what, this bag has given me grief. I’ve worked and reworked it to find the best possible construction to deliver you a pattern that is super easy and very durable. But, I think I’ve succeeded!

    A confident beginner could make this bag, easily, and yet it still looks like something you could buy at the surf shop. It has a very classic nautical-style pattern, but with really fun color options thanks to the yarn (Lion Brand’s 24/7 Cotton).  I am absolutely in love with it!

    Oh, and did I mention… I made two sizes! One is perfect for you, and the other is perfect for your mini-me.

    About the Yarn

    24/7 Cotton by Lion Brand Yarn is a worsted-weight, mercerized 100% natural fiber yarn. It has ah-ma-zing color, sheen and stitch definition, and a range of 24 fun shades. There are so many beautiful color combos you could utilize with this beach bag… you might just have to make more than one!

    –

    Don’t let the grommets scare you…

    When I was trying to figure out the sturdiest way to add handles to this bag, I decided to try something I’d never used before – grommets! I took a chance and ordered some from Amazon, and I was so pleased with how easy they were to attach. Now, I am not a DIY girl, as much as I’d like to be. I’ve used a hammer maybe three times in my life. So take it from me… if I can do it, you can do it! And it will make such a huge difference in the sturdiness of your bag. Combined with the rope handles, the grommets take the weight of the bag on themselves, and since they don’t stretch like crocheted fabric does, your bag won’t stretch out the first time you put something in it. Click here to purchase the same grommet set I used. (You’ll get enough grommets for two bags, plus have 2 left over.)

    Prefer a PDF?

    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    CLASSIC BEACH BAG

    add-to-ravelry-favorites

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 20″ width x 14″ height x 6″ depth (adult size) / 15.5″ width x 12″ height x 6″ depth (child size)

    Hook:  E (3.5mm)

    Yarn: Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in 3 different colors. 24/7 Cotton is a worsted-weight, mercerized yarn. Individual sizes and amounts are listed below.

    Adult Size:
    COLOR A (360 yards, or 2 skeins). Sample shown in “Rose.”
    COLOR B (340 yards, or 2 skeins). Sample shown in “White.”
    COLOR C (300 yards, or 2 skeins). Sample shown in “Navy.”

    Child Size:
    COLOR A (310 yards, or 2 skeins). Sample shown in “Aqua.”
    COLOR B (220 yards, or 2 skeins). Sample shown in “White.”
    COLOR C (180 yards, or 1 skein). Sample shown in “Silver.”

    Gauge: 10 rows of 10 SC = 2″ square

    You’ll also need:
    Yarn needle
    Scissors
    3/8″ twisted rope for handles (two 36″ lengths for adult size, or two 30″ lengths for child size – I found mine at Joann Fabrics)
    Size 4 (1/2″ diameter) grommet kit – one beach bag uses 4 grommets (I used this one – it came with 10 grommets and was super easy to use)
    Hammer

    Abbreviations Used:
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1 at the beginning of round does not count as a stitch.
    (3) Both Adult and Child sizes are written out in full below. After that section, you’ll find instructions for shaping the bag and attaching the handles. These instructions are the same for both sizes.
    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    INSTRUCTIONS (ADULT SIZE)

    To begin: With COLOR A, CH192. Join to first CH with a SL ST, being careful to not twist the chain. (Briana K has an awesome video tutorial here for how to do this perfect every time.) (192)

    Rounds 1-24: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 25-28: Attach COLOR B; fasten off COLOR A. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 29-32: Attach COLOR C; drop COLOR B (do not fasten off). CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    From this point until instructed otherwise, you will drop yarn at color changes and pick it back up again when needed. Do not fasten it off.

    Rounds 33-36: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 37-40: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 41-44: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 45-48: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 49-52: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 53-56: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 57-60: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 61-64: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 65-68: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 69-72: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 73-76: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 77-80: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 81-84: Switch to COLOR B; fasten off COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Rounds 85-89: Switch to COLOR A; fasten off COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Round 90: CH1. SC in each of the first 30 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 30 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 60 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 30 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 30 STS. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (180 SC + 4 CH3 holes)

    Round 91: CH1. SC in each ST around, putting 3SC in each CH3 space from previous round. (192)

    Rounds 92-94: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Round 95: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (192)

    Fasten off; weave in all ends.

    INSTRUCTIONS (CHILD SIZE)

    To begin: With COLOR A, CH156. Join to first CH with a SL ST, being careful to not twist the chain. (Briana K has an awesome video tutorial here for how to do this perfect every time.) (156)

    Rounds 1-24: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Rounds 25-28: Attach COLOR B; fasten off COLOR A. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Rounds 29-32: Attach COLOR C; drop COLOR B (do not fasten off). CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    From this point until instructed otherwise, you will drop yarn at color changes and pick it back up again when needed. Do not fasten it off.

    Rounds 33-36: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Rounds 37-40: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Rounds 41-44: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Rounds 45-48: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Rounds 49-52: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Rounds 53-56: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Rounds 57-60: Switch to COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Rounds 61-64: Switch to COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Rounds 65-68: Switch to COLOR B; fasten off COLOR C. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Rounds 69-73: Switch to COLOR A; fasten off COLOR B. CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Round 74: CH1. SC in each of the first 24 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 24 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 48 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 24 STS. CH3; SK 3 STS. SC in each of the next 24 STS. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (144 SC + 4 CH3 holes)

    Round 75: CH1. SC in each ST around, putting 3SC in each CH3 space from previous round. (156)

    Rounds 76-78: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Round 79: CH1, turn. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (156)

    Fasten off; weave in all ends.

    – – – – – – – – – – –

    ATTACHING GROMMETS (SAME INSTRUCTIONS FOR BOTH BAG SIZES)

    Open your grommet kit (I used this one) and retrieve the following items:

    Turn your bag inside out, and follow the instructions on your grommet kit to add grommets to each of the four holes at the top of the bag. I’ve got 2 important tips for you here…

    Important tip #1: If I had to do it again, I would not have rested the base on the lower layer of fabric as shown in the photo below; beating it with a hammer caused a slight discoloration in the fabric. Not cool. #lessonlearned)
    Important tip #2: When I was reading the reviews for the grommet set before I purchased it, I learned that it’s best to do your hammering on a very hard surface (like your cement garage floor). This worked great for me.

    – – – – – – – – – – –

    SEWING THE BOTTOM (SAME INSTRUCTIONS FOR BOTH BAG SIZES)

    Keeping the bag inside out, lay it flat, lining up the grommets. Use COLOR A (a length about 4x the width of the bag) to sew the bottom of the bag closed, stitch by stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends.

    With the bag still inside out, turn it upside down and position the bottom so that one end lays out in a triangular shape, with the seam centered. Use a ruler and a piece of tape to measure and mark a 5″ line across the corner of the base. Sew a seam across the line (through both layers) with COLOR A. Repeat on the opposite side. This will make the inside of the bag roomy.

    Turn bag right-side out. Here’s what it should look like on the inside:

    And here’s what it should look like on the bottom:

    – – – – – – – – – – –

    ADDING ROPE HANDLES (SAME INSTRUCTIONS FOR BOTH BAG SIZES)

    Take your first rope handle and insert it through one of the grommets, going from the inside of the bag to the outside. Tie a knot near the bottom of the rope on the outside of the bag and pull it tight (you can use your grommet to help by gently but firmly pulling the rope from the inside of the bag, which will pull the knot against the grommet and tighten it up). Then, use good scissors to cut the excess rope about 1/2″ below the knot.

    If your rope looks like mine, it will have a couple strands of thread wrapped tightly around each twist. These are pretty easy to locate by gently pulling on the tips of the yarn. When you find them, pull them away from the yarn right up to the knot. Then use scissors to cut them off at that point. Give the exposed thread a little ruffle with your fingers; this will give your handles that classic weathered tassel look.

    Repeat these instructions with the other end of the same rope (attaching it through the other grommet on the same side of the bag) to complete your first handle. Then, do everything again for the 2nd handle on the other side. Note that you’ll want both handles to be the same length, so be sure to compare them when you’re about to tie your final knot to ensure that the handle sizes match.

    – – – – – – – – – – –

    That’s it – you’re done! Grab your favorite sunglasses and a beach towel and head to your favorite sandy spot in style. And don’t be surprised if someone asks you where you got your gorgeous beach bag!

  • Mini Beach Bag Gift Card Holder

    Mini Beach Bag Gift Card Holder

    Thank you Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this pattern!

    I’m a textbook procrastinator, so with just 4 days left of preschool for the middle monkey, of course I was scrambling this weekend to figure out what to give his teachers. I was also working on a really fun beach bag pattern (to be released soonish), and a couple nights ago the idea for this gift card holder dawned on me as I was working on the other pattern. What says “Summer’s here!” more than a beach bag filled with a beach ball, flip flops and sunglasses?

    So I whipped up this little mini bag and then put together an adorable printable to go with it. (Patterns rarely come together this quickly for me, so I was pretty proud of myself!) I used Lion Brand’s 24/7 Cotton yarn, because its bright colors are so summery.

    I included the phrase “School’s out, summer’s here… thanks for all you’ve done this year!” on the printable. But don’t worry; if you love the gift card holder but don’t have any teachers to buy for this year, you can also download the free printable without the phrase on it!

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    MINI BEACH BAG GIFT CARD HOLDER

    Difficulty: Easy

    Finished Size: 3″ wide at bottom, 4″ wide at top, and 2.5″ tall (not including straps)

    Hook:  E (3.5mm)

    Yarn: Less than 40 yards of #4 medium weight yarn. I used Lion Brand’s 24/7 Cotton in “Aqua” (COLOR A, about 11 yards); “White” (COLOR B, about 13 yards); and “Silver” (COLOR C, about 11 yards).

    Gauge: 10 rows of 10 SC = 2″ square. Starting chain should wrap snuggly around a gift card.

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle, tape, and this downloadable insert for teachers or this generic downloadable insert printed on card stock. Starfish charm optional (I found mine at Hobby Lobby)

    Abbreviations Used:
    ST/STS     (stitch/stitches)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) CH1 at the beginning of round does not count as a stitch.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    THE PATTERN

    To begin: With COLOR A, leaving a 12″ tail, CH33. Join to first CH with a SL ST, being careful to not twist the chain. (Briana K has an awesome video tutorial here for how to do this perfect every time.) (33)

    Rounds 1-2: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (33)

    Switch to COLOR B; fasten off COLOR A.

    Round 3: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (33)

    Switch to COLOR C (do not fasten off COLOR B).

    Round 4: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (33)

    Switch to COLOR B (do not fasten off COLOR C).

    Round 5: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (33)

    Switch to COLOR C (do not fasten off COLOR B).

    Round 6: CH1. 2SC in same ST. SC in each of the next 16 STS. 2SC in next ST. SC in each of the next 15 STS. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (35)

    Switch to COLOR B (do not fasten off COLOR C).

    Round 7: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (35)

    Switch to COLOR C (do not fasten off COLOR B).

    Round 8: CH1. 2SC in same ST. SC in each of the next 17 STS. 2SC in next ST. SC in each of the next 16 STS. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (37)

    Switch to COLOR B (do not fasten off COLOR C).

    Round 9: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (37)

    Switch to COLOR C (do not fasten off COLOR B).

    Round 10: CH1. 2SC in same ST. SC in each of the next 18 STS. 2SC in next ST. SC in each of the next 17 STS. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (39)

    Switch to COLOR B; fasten off COLOR C.

    Round 11: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (39)

    Switch to COLOR A; fasten off COLOR B.

    Round 12: CH1. 2SC in same ST. SC in each of the next 19 STS. 2SC in next ST. SC in each of the next 18 STS. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (41)

    Round 13: CH1. SC in same ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC. (41)

    Fasten off and weave in all ends except your starting tail. Turn your bag inside out and lay it flat so that the starting tail is at one end, then use it to sew the bottom together, stitch by stitch. Turn bag right side out.


    Straps

    1. Cut 6 strands of white yarn, each 10″ long. Take 3 of them and tie them together with a knot toward one end (pictured). Do the same with the other 3 strands.

    2. Take one set of strands and tape the knotted end down to something sturdy, then braid the three strands until the braided section measures 5″. Tie another knot to secure the braid. Repeat with the other set of strands.

    3. Lay your bag flat and locate the spaces between the final two rounds (the tiny spaces created by the stitches). Count 7 stitches from the top left edge of the bag and use a crochet hook to draw a knot from one of your braids through that space from the inside of the bag to the outside. Count 7 stitches from the top right edge and do the same with the other end of the same braid. Tie an additional knot over each of the original knots to make them big enough that they won’t slip back through the holes. Trim the excess yarn from each end.

    4. Turn bag over and repeat step 3 with the remaining braid.

    Free Printable

    Don’t forget the adorable printable for your mini beach bag! I’ve created two versions: one specifically for teachers with the saying “School’s out, summer’s here… thanks for all you’ve done this year!” and one blank version in case you want to write your own message or use this for someone other than a teacher.

    Download the Mini Beach Bag Gift Card Holder Insert – for Teachers
    Download the Mini Beach Bag Gift Card Holder Insert – Generic

    Cut out your insert, add your gift card, stuff it in your beach bag, and you’re done! I just know that the recipient will get a kick out of this adorable and reusable gift card holder.

  • Huntley Gift Bag Crochet Pattern

    Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for supplying the yarn for this sample!

    It’s not lost on me that this probably seems a little late in the game to be releasing a Teacher Thank-You Gift idea, considering it seems most of the country has already been on summer break for a couple of weeks. But here in Michigan, we have this silly little state law that prohibits public schools from starting before Labor Day; and with a late start date comes a late end date. (I don’t mind it, really… it’s especially nice when all the Ohio kids go back to school in August and we Michiganders get all the rides at Cedar Point to ourselves. But I digress.)

    So, since I’m a procrastinator, I’m just now figuring out what to give my son’s awesome Readiness Kindergarten teacher. Luckily for you, this pattern could be used for a number of things (and I’m hoping that Mrs. Huntley will find other uses for it as well)!

    For Mrs. Huntley, I stuffed it with glue sticks and glue bottles (which were a constant need in the classroom throughout the year), and I also plan to add some candy and a small gift card for coffee. Hopefully she’ll love it… we sure love her!

    Huntley Gift Bag / Basket Crochet Pattern | Free teacher gift bag / basket crochet pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    About the Yarn

    Color Block Placemat Crochet Pattern with Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton Yarn | Crochet Placemat Pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    24/7 Cotton is a #4 medium weight yarn, although I’d definitely put it on the lighter side of the #4 family. It’s 100% mercerized cotton, which means it’s been treated with a process that brings out its brightness and sheen and helps it withstand multiple washings without losing that sheen. It comes in 186-yard skeins in a range of 24 gorgeous colors, from striking brights to natural-looking neutrals. It produces a stiffish (that’s probably not a real word) fabric, has a great balance of sheen and stitch definition, and doesn’t split at all during use. I’ve been seriously impressed with Lion Brand’s recently released yarns, and 24/7 Cotton is really no exception.

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    This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

    All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

    HUNTLEY GIFT BAG

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    Level: Easy

    Size: 9″ long x 3″ wide x 6″ tall

    Hook: H (5.00mm)

    Yarn: About 295 yards total of a #4 medium weight 100% mercerized cotton yarn. I used 24/7 Cotton (by Lion Brand) in color blocks of Lilac, Café Au Lait, and Ecru. You will be holding two strands together, so you can either buy two skeins of each color (if you’re using my color changes), or you can buy 1 skein of each and roll half of each skein into its own center-pull ball.

    You’ll also need: Yarn needle

    Gauge: 12 rows of 10SC = 3″ square

    Abbreviations Used:
       ST (stitch)
    SL ST (slip stitch)
    SK (skip)
    CH (chain)
    SC (single crochet)
    HDC (half double crochet)
       SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)

    Notes:
    (1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
    (2) Starting CHs do not count as stitches.
    (3) You are holding two strands together throughout the pattern.
    (4) Made at the correct gauge, this bag is stiff enough to stand on its own, but still has quite a bit of give. For a stiffer bag, use a smaller hook size or consider triple-stranding your yarn.

    – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

    To begin:
    With first color double-stranded, CH 26.

    Round 1: 3SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in each of the next 23 CHs. 3SC in last CH, working around the tail to the other side. SC in each of the next 23 CHs. Join with a SL ST to 1st SC. (52)

    Round 2: CH1 (does not count as a stitch, here or throughout). 2SC in same ST, 2SC in each of the next 2 STS. SC in each of the next 23 STS. 2SC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 23 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st SC. (58)

    Round 3: CH1. 2SC in same ST. SC in next ST. (2SC in next, SC in next) two times. SC in each of the next 23 STS. (2SC in next, SC in next) three times. SC in each of the next 23 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st SC. (64)

    Round 4: CH1. SC in each of first 2 STS. 2 SC in next ST. (SC in each of next 2 STS, 2SC in next) two times. SC in each of the next 23 STS. (SC in each of next 2 STS, 2SC in next) three times. SC in each of the next 23 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st SC. (70)

    Round 5: CH1. SC+HDC in same ST, SK next ST. (SC+HDC in next ST, SK next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. (70)

    Rounds 6-13: CH1, turn. SC+HDC in same ST, SK next ST. (SC+HDC in next ST, SK next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. (70)

    Note: You should be back on the right side of your work at this point. If you find that you are on the wrong side, it’s not a big deal, you probably just miscounted a row, but you’ll need to turn on the next round to get yourself back to the right side.

    Change colors if desired.

    Rounds 14-20: CH1. SC in first ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. (70)

    Change colors if desired.

    Rounds 21-23: CH1. SC in first ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. (70)

    Round 24: CH1. SC in first ST and in next 19 STS. CH14. SK 11 STS. SC in next 24 STS. CH14. SK 11 STS. SC in next 4 STS. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. (48 SC + two CH14s)

    Visual of Round 24, creating the bag handles with the CH14:

    Huntley Gift Bag Crochet Pattern | Free teacher gift bag crochet pattern by Little Monkeys Crochet

    Round 25: CH1. SC in first ST and in each ST around, putting 1SC in each CH from the two CH14s of the previous round. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. (76)

    Rounds 26-27: CH1. SC in first ST and in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. (76)

    Fasten off and weave in all ends.