Category: Crochet Patterns

Mobile Device Cover

After the success of the Wildflower Shoulder Bag pattern, I wanted to design a quick pattern to match it that would work as a tablet or iPad cover. I designed this for a standard iPad, but it’s easy to adapt it to the size of your particular device, without doing too much reworking. You could even modify it to be used as a cover for your cell phone!

As with the Wildflower Shoulder Bag, I used Lion Brand’s Cotton-Ease yarn for this project. (I want to thank Lion Brand for providing the yarn for my sample.) I have really come to love this yarn! It doesn’t fuzz, it’s soft yet durable, and it really shows off stitch work.

(Edit: This yarn has since been discontinued.)

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

MOBILE DEVICE COVER

Hook: H (5.00mm)
Yarn: About 140 yards of Lion Brand Cotton-Ease (I used “stone”)
Difficulty: Easy
Finished Size: 7″ wide x 9.5″ tall
Gauge: 9 rows of 7 SC = 2″ square
You’ll also need: 1 button, plus tools to attach it, and a stitch marker

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) The pattern is sized for a standard iPad. Hints for adjusting the size are included in the pattern, in blue.
(3) This pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round. Do not join or turn unless instructed to do so. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning of your rounds.

PATTERN:

To begin:
Ch 25. (This is the length of the smallest side of your device, plus half an inch. Any odd number of chains will work.)

Round 1: 3SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in each of the next 22 CHs. 3SC in last CH, working around the tail to the other side. Coming over to the other side, SC in each of the next 22 CHs. (50)

Rounds 2-3: SC in each ST around. (50)

Round 4: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around. (50)

Rounds 5-22 (or until your height is about 2-2.5″ shorter than the height of your device): Repeat Round 4.

Rounds 23-30 (or until your height is about half an inch shorter than the height of your device): SC in each ST around. (50)

Round 31: Now we’re going to form the button closure. Using a bobby pin or stitch marker, lay the project flat and mark the centermost stitch of the last round. SC in each ST until you reach your marked stitch; SL ST to the marked ST. CH 12 (or however many you’ll need to wrap it around the button you chose). SL ST to the same ST to close the loop. SC in each remaining ST around.

Round 32: SC in each ST around. (Ignore the CH12 loop; just fold it down out of your way.)

To Finish: SL ST into the first 3 STS of the next round to even out the edge.

Fasten off and weave in ends. Attach your button on the opposite side from the button loop.

August 19, 2015
Wildflower Shoulder Bag (Crochet-Along)

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::: UPDATE :::

The CAL is officially DONE! But don’t worry, the pattern will remain on my blog for free. If you would like to purchase an inexpensive, ad-free, concise PDF version (American Standard Version only), you can find it on Ravelry or Etsy or get access to this an ALL of my other patterns with an All-Access Pass!

(Original post below)

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HEY! Guess what? I’m about to start the very first Little Monkeys Crochet CAL! For those of you who are newer to the crochet world, CAL is short for Crochet-Along. It basically means that a pattern is released in sections over a period of time, and we all follow along together to make it. This CAL will produce a pretty adorable bag I’m calling the Wildflower Shoulder Bag! Using the recommended yarn, its base will measure about 15″ across.

Interested? Great!

The Wildflower Shoulder Bag pattern will include clearly-written instructions, helpful photos, and a video tutorial that I’ve been working really hard on over the last few weeks. So whether you work best from a pattern or you’re a more visual learner, you’ll be able to follow along with this easy-level pattern. The schedule for the CAL is as follows:

June 25: Start Here! Intro Post and Materials List (this post)
July 2: Part 1, Flower Squares and GIVEAWAY INFO!
July 9: Part 2, Body of the Bag
July 16: Part 3, Base, Embellishments and Strap

Here’s what you can do now to get the most out of the CAL experience:

1. Join the CAL Facebook group (optional)
2. Join the Little Monkeys Crochet mailing list (via the aqua-colored form at the top of the blog) so you don’t miss anything (also optional)
3. Share this blog post in your favorite crochet groups on Facebook (again, optional)
4. Read through the FAQs at the bottom of this post
5. Start gathering your materials

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Supply List

Here’s what you’ll need for this CAL:

Cotton-Ease Yarn (4 skeins) – This worsted weight yarn from Lion Brand is a blend of cotton and acrylic, and it’s very easy to work with. I made the bag in the photos with the color Stone, which is a lighter medium gray. (You can substitute with 800 yards of a different worsted weight yarn.)

5.0mm (H) Hook – Gauge is generally unimportant, as this pattern will work with any yarn and appropriately-sized hook. To achieve the size of the bag in the photo (shown on a petite model), which is 15″ wide x 12″ tall (strap not included), use this gauge:

4 rows of 6 HDC = 1.5″ square

Button (1″ or 1-1/8″)

Plastic Canvas – This can be found at craft stores for less than a dollar. It’s a sheet of plastic mesh that is sold in various sizes. I used a sheet of 13.5″x10.5″. You won’t need this until Week 3 of the CAL.

(2) 32mm Split Rings – Like what holds your keys on your keychain.

Needle & Thread – For sewing on your button(s).

Crochet Basics – Tapestry Needle, Scissors, and a Stitch Marker – I use a bobby pin as a stitch marker.

OPTIONAL:

6 Buttons – If you want to add buttons to the center of your flower squares. These buttons should match the button from the list above, which will be used as a closure.

Leather Purse Strap – If you want to give your shoulder bag a bit fancier of a look.

2 Rings With Clasps – If you would like your strap to be removable, you can crochet it to these. Then you can switch between the crocheted (casual) look and the leather (chic) look. I also happen to love the look of the extra hardware, so I chose to include these in my bag.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q. Do I have to join the Facebook group? Is the CAL free?
A. The CAL is 100% free and you are not required to join/sign up anywhere to participate. You only need access to my blog, which is free. The Facebook group is just a fun way to stay connected and help each other out. Joining my blog e-mail list will ensure that you receive an email when each new part of the CAL is published. These things are all optional.

Q. Can I use [insert name of a different yarn] instead?
A. This pattern will work fine with any yarn and appropriately-sized hook. You should consider whether the yarn you wish to use will hold up as a bag. Also, the dimensions of the bag using Cotton-Ease and an H hook will be approximately 15″ wide, so keep that in mind if you choose a thinner or thicker yarn. The width will change.

Q. What are the details of Cotton-Ease so that I can find something comparable in my home country?
A. Cotton-Ease, by Lion Brand, is a 50/50 cotton/acrylic blend. It’s a #4 worsted weight yarn and is machine washable and dryable. The skeins come in 3.5oz (100g), 207 yds (188m).

Q. Is the pattern on Ravelry?
A. Yes! View on Ravelry.

Q. What is the plastic canvas for, and can I use [insert a different material here] instead?
A. The plastic canvas will be used as a base liner (for stability) and will be hidden in between two crocheted pieces. So if you have another material in mind, you can use it instead. Just make sure it’s washable!

Q. Will the CAL include instructions for lining the bag?
A. Unfortunately, no… unless you consider “give your bag to your friend who knows how to sew and ask her to line it for you” to be complete instructions. 😉 This bag would benefit from a lining and zipper, though, so if you know how to do it, your bag will be all the better for it. Here is an awesome tutorial that is very similar to the style of this bag.

Q. Is the CAL going to be available in [insert your native language here]?
A. The pattern is currently available in American Standard Terms, UK Terms, Dutch, German, Norwegian, Danish, French and Spanish. Everything except the original (American Standard) exists because of kind-hearted translators who simply wanted to help. These versions have very limited support (because I don’t speak the languages), but you can access them all here.

Q. Will the patterns be printable?
A. You can purchase an ad-free PDF of the American Standard version in my Etsy shop!
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See you next week!

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June 24, 2015
Little Girl’s Wildflower Purse
I have a quick little stashbuster pattern for you today that will bring a big smile to your little girl’s face! Choose her favorite colors to whip up this precious purse. My Neverending Wildflower pattern serves as the foldover panel, and the rest is just single crochet and some seaming. As my 4 year old son would say, “easy peasy, lemon squeezy!”

LITTLE GIRL’S WILDFLOWER PURSE

Hook: H (5.50mm) or size appropriate for the yarn you choose
Yarn: The yarn you choose doesn’t matter, as long as your hook is a good match for it. I used an H hook and about 110 yards of worsted weight yarn for my purse in the photos, which measures 5″ wide and 7″ tall (not including the strap).
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: Unimportant

Notes: 
- This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
- Flower rounds will alternate between increase rounds and petals. Increase rounds will be called “round 1, 2, 3” etc, and petal rounds will be referred to as “1^st round of petals, 2^nd round of petals,” etc. Because ch petal round shares its space with the increase round below it, they are not counted as part of the pattern’s total rounds.
- CH2 on the increase rounds does not count as a stitch.
- Be mindful that the flower pattern alternates in calling for FLO (Front Loops Only) and BLO (Back Loops Only). This is crucial.
- If you’re having trouble with the flower, this post has tutorial photos that may help you.
- In my step-by-step photos, you’ll see a flower with blue and white petals. It’s up to you if you want to change colors.
PART I: THE FLOWER

Begin with a Magic Circle; CH2.

Round 1: 12 DC in MC. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (12)

1st Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. In same St, 2DC, CH2, SL ST. This is your first petal. (SL ST to next St. In same St, CH2, 2DC, CH2, SL ST to same St) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 2 (BLO – You’re now going to work around Round 1 again, this time working in the loop that you ignored during the first round of petals): SL ST to 1^stback loop of Round 1. CH2. 2DC in same ST. 2 DC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (24)

2nd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^stCH2. (12 petals)

Round 3 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 2. CH2. 2DC in same ST, DC in next ST. (2DC in next ST, DC in next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (36)

3rd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 4 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 3. CH2. 2DC in same ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (48)

4th Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. To complete flower, SL ST to 1^st BLO of Round 4. (12 petals)

At this point, your flower should look like this:

Take a moment to fasten off and weave in all your ends. Then attach whatever yarn you’re going to use for the body of the purse. It doesn’t matter where you attach it; just be sure you haven’t turned the flower. The petals should be facing you.

PART II: THE BODY OF THE PURSE

Row 1: CH2, 2DC in same ST. DC in each of the next 2 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 4 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. DC in each of the next 2 STS. 2DC in next. (18)

Row 2: CH1, turn. HDC in same. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 10 STS. HDC in each of the last 4 STS. (18)

Row 3: Ch1, turn. SC across. (18)

Rows 4-47: Repeat Row 3. (18)

Here’s what we’ve got now (back view):

PART III: SEAMING IT UP AND ADDING THE STRAP

Lay it out with the petals facing down (as in the previous photo). Bring up the bottom and line it up with the 3rd row, which is the first row to be done in all SC (below, left). CH1 and SC evenly along the edge, inserting your hook through both layers, seaming it together (below, right).

Once you’ve seamed that edge, fasten off and weave in your ends. (I wove mine in on the inside of the purse.)

Attach the yarn at the bottom of the purse on the other edge (below, left), still keeping the petals facing down. CH1 and SC evenly along the edge until you reach the end of the folded-up layer (below, middle). CH60 (or however long you want your strap to be… I made mine with a young toddler in mind). SL ST to the opposite top corner from where you started (below, right), then turn and go back around the CH60, SCing into each chain until you are back where you started. SL ST to the corner, fasten off and weave in ends.

If you want to, you can cut out a piece of felt and glue it to the back of the flower to hide the “wrong side”.

And you’re done!
June 4, 2015
Basketweave Throw Pillow

Ever since I made my first throw pillow, the 12″ Buttoned Throw Pillow, I’ve been on a bit of a pillow kick. Once I made one, about a dozen ideas for different ones started flooding into my head. The thing I love about crocheted throw pillows is that you can make them whatever color you want to match your decor, and between all the crochet stitches and color schemes out there, the design possibilities are endless. They’re a nice break from all the hats and scarves I’ve been making all winter, too!

This new throw pillow pattern is super cute, if I do say so myself. It utilizes the basketweave stitch, which looks so much more complicated than it really is. Even if you’re a beginner, give it a try. You might surprise yourself, and you’ll certainly impress your family and friends!

One thing I’ve learned in the process of making throw pillows is that they fit over the inserts the best when they’re just slightly smaller in length than the insert itself. So for this 12″ pillow, I edged both sides in SC until they were about 11.75″ (that’s width, not corner-to-corner). Any larger than that, and I’ve found that the edges get wavy and floppy and just don’t lay as nicely. So for this pattern, although I SC’d around the 3 times, you should measure your piece before edging and only add as many rounds of edging as you need to get to about 11.75″. You might need more or less than I did.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

BASKETWEAVE THROW PILLOW

Hook: H (5.00mm)
Yarn: About 340 yards (170 yards for each side) of your favorite medium worsted weight yarn
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: 7DC per 2″. If yours is slightly tighter, it’s not going to matter because I’ve given instructions on the “edging” section that will help you adapt the pattern to get to the right measurements. If your tension is looser than mine, however, you’ll want to adjust your hook size down.
You’ll also need: 12″ throw pillow insert (I got mine at Hobby Lobby), tape measure, yarn needle and scissors.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) Starting Ch2 DOES count as 1st stitch of each row.

PATTERN (MAKE 2):

Ch 37.

Row 1: DC in 3^rd Ch from hook. Dc across. (36, including starting Ch)

Row 2: Ch 2; turn. Skipping 1st DC from previous row (see photo), FPDC in next 3 Sts. (BPDC in next 4 Sts, FPDC in next 4 Sts) across. (36)

Row 3: Ch 2; turn. Skipping 1st DC from previous row, BPDC in next 3 Sts. (FPDC in next 4 Sts, BPDC in next 4 Sts) across. (36)

Row 4: Ch 2; turn. Skipping 1st DC from previous row, BPDC in next 3 Sts. (FPDC in next 4 Sts, BPDC in next 4 Sts) across. (36)

Row 5: Ch 2; turn. Skipping 1st DC from previous row, FPDC in next 3 Sts. (BPDC in next 4 Sts, FPDC in next 4 Sts) across. (36)

Rows 6-?: Repeat rows 2-5 until the length is approximately the same as the width. (Mine took 26 rows. Since you’re making two of these, be sure to crochet the same number of rows for both pillow pieces.)

Edging:

Round 1: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting 3SC in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC. (NOTE: Two of your sides will have exactly 36 stitches, and your goal is to get as close to that as you can on the other two sides, so that you’ll end up with a perfect or close-to-perfect square. You may have to do a little visual math here. I did it by dividing the side into fourths – you can place a bobbie pin in the center, and then again in the center of each half, to help you visualize this. Then, because

36 (stitches) ÷ 4 (sections) = 9

…I put 9 SCs in each section. I know, I’m such a nerd, but I made you a diagram.)

Round 2: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting 3SC in each corner (which would be the middle SC from the previous round’s 3 corner SCs). Join with Sl St to 1st SC.

Measure your width. If it’s not 11.75″ yet, repeat Round 2 until it is.

For Pillow Side 1, fasten off and weave in ends. For Pillow Side 2, do not fasten off; weave in only your starting end, and continue to sewing instructions.

Sewing the Pillow Together:

Hold both pillow pieces together with the unfinished one closest to you, wrong sides facing each other, right sides facing out. (If you’re a perfectionist, you may want to make sure that the stitches from both pieces are going in the same direction, although it won’t affect assembly either way.) Insert your hook into the loop of the unfinished side, then slip stitch through the top loops of both pillow pieces. Ch1. Working through both pillow pieces throughout, SC in same St and evenly around 3 sides, putting 3SC in each corner. When you finish the 3rd side, insert your pillow. Continue to SC around the final side, sewing the pillow shut. Fasten off and weave in ends.

May 18, 2015
Never Ending Wildflower 12″ Granny Square
Welcome, Moogly Afghan CAL visitors!

If you’ve spent much time around my blog (and welcome, to those of you who haven’t), you know that I like to create modern, clean-looking patterns. I like simple color schemes, clean lines, and contemporary styles!

That’s why I decided to use my Never Ending Wildflower to create this square. The interest of this pattern doesn’t come from the square itself, but from the beauty of its focal centerpiece, the large, multi-petal wildflower. Of course, you can incorporate as many different colors into this pattern as you want; for me, I prefer just using two, and I love how the contrast makes the flower leap right off the square.

If you’d like to see the original pattern for the Never Ending Wildflower, and learn how to make it even bigger for different uses, you can view that pattern here.

And for our Dutch friends joining in on the Moogly CAL:
Dit patroon is (door HET HAAKBEEST) in het Nederlands vertaald. Je vindt een versie met foto’s voor rechtshandigen, eentje met foto’s speciaal voor linkshandigen, en een printerversie zonder foto’s.

THE NEVER ENDING WILDFLOWER 12″ GRANNY SQUARE

Hook: I (5.50mm)
Yarn: Vanna’s Choice, or your favorite worsted weight yarn. I used less than 100 yards (each) of Vanna’s Choice in White and Dusty Blue for my sample.
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: Circle after Round 3 should measure 3.75” in diameter.
Final Size: 12″x12″

Notes: 
- This pattern is written in American Standard Terms. The flower portion is taken from my original pattern, The Never Ending Wildflower.
- The flower, including its petals, are worked as a part of the granny square as a whole. Rounds will alternate between increase rounds and petals. Increase rounds will be called “round 1, 2, 3” etc, and petal rounds will be referred to as “1^st round of petals, 2^nd round of petals,” etc. Because each petal round shares its space with the increase round below it, they are not counted as part of the pattern’s total rounds.
- CH1 on the increase rounds does not count as a stitch.
- Be mindful that the pattern alternates in calling for FLO (Front Loops Only) and BLO (Back Loops Only).
- Each round of petals has 12 total petals. The first round of petals will cover 1 ST (of the previous round) per petal. The 2^nd round of petals will cover 2 STS per petal, the 3^rd round 3 STS, and so on.
PART 1: THE FLOWER

Begin with a Magic Circle; CH1.

Round 1: 12 DC in MC. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (12)

1^st Round of Petals (FLO – don’t miss this!): CH2. In same St, 2DC, CH2, SL ST. This is your first petal. (SL ST to next St. In same St, CH2, 2DC, CH2, SL ST to same St) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 2 (BLO – You’re now going to work around Round 1 again, this time working in the loop that you ignored during the first round of petals): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 1. CH1. 2DC in same ST. 2 DC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (24)

2^nd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 3 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 2. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in next ST. (2DC in next ST, DC in next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (36)

3^rd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 4 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 3. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (48)

4^th Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. To complete flower, SL ST to 1^st BLO of Round 4. (12 petals)

Change colors if desired.

PART 2: THE GRANNY SQUARE

Round 5: CH2 (does not count as a stitch, here and throughout the rest of the pattern). In same ST, 2DC, CH2, 2DC. DC in next. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. DC in next ST. (In next ST, 2DC, CH2, 2DC. DC in next. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 3 STS. HDC in each of the next 3 STS. DC in next ST) 3 times. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 15.)

Round 6: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 19.)

Round 7: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 23.)

Round 8: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 27.)

Round 9: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 31.)

Round 10: CH2. DC around, putting (2DC, CH2, 2DC) in each corner chain space. Join to 1^st DC of the round with a SL ST. (Total STS per side, not including the corner CH2s, is 35.)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.
May 6, 2015
Never Ending Wildflower
I’ve got a great new flower pattern and tutorial for you! I’ve been brainstorming how to make a “giant flower” for a while, and I’m finally happy with what I’ve come up with. I’m loving this flower and am so exited about all of its potential uses.

What makes this flower “never-ending” is how it is built. Between each round of petals is a round of increases, so the petals don’t pile on top of each other. What that means is that rather than getting taller and bulkier, the flower stays the same height, and just gets wider. So, theoretically, you could keep adding rounds of petals and increases to make it the size of a football field, and it would still only be less than an inch tall, making it great as an addition to things like blankets and throw pillows. It’s not 1-dimensional like your typical appliqué; it has depth and interest, without the bulk.

And what’s really cool is that this flower works right into a granny square, so you can use it in an afghan or as a throw pillow cover. I’m telling you, the applications are as endless as your imagination. If you want to see how I turned this flower into a granny square, check out this blog post!

…And if you like this flower, you’re going to LOVE the Wildflower Shoulder Bag:

A note about this pillow & afghan combo…

I have gotten so many emails, messages and comments about the pattern for the pillow shown in this photo. It is not my creation (someone used the Neverending Wildflower and turned it into a pillow), and unfortunately, the photo of it keeps getting linked to me. I do not have this pattern variation. I can, however, tell you that the stunning blanket pictured with it is Sophie’s Universe by Dedri Uys.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

THE NEVERENDING WILDFLOWER

Hook: H (5.00mm) or size appropriate for the yarn you choose
Yarn: The yarn you choose doesn’t matter, as long as your hook is a good match for it. I used an H hook and worsted weight yarn for my sample in the photos, which measures 8″ across.
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: Unimportant

Video Tutorial (sort of): If you have a hard time getting this pattern started, there is a video tutorial for my Wildflower Shoulder Bag that matches up with the first two rounds of petals in this pattern. Please note that after the 2nd round of petals, the video will no longer be applicable (but by then, you’ll probably have the hang of it anyway). View tutorial here.

Notes: 
- This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
- Rounds will alternate between increase rounds and petals. Increase rounds will be called “round 1, 2, 3” etc, and petal rounds will be referred to as “1^st round of petals, 2^nd round of petals,” etc. Because ch petal round shares its space with the increase round below it, they are not counted as part of the pattern’s total rounds.
- CH1 on the increase rounds does not count as a stitch.
- Be mindful that the pattern alternates in calling for FLO (Front Loops Only) and BLO (Back Loops Only).
- Each round of petals has 12 total petals. The first round of petals will cover 1 ST (of the previous round) per petal. The 2^nd round of petals will cover 2 STS per petal, the 3^rd round 3 STS, and so on. I’m giving you instructions up to 5 rounds of petals, but using this formula and a little imagination, you can make it even bigger.
THE PATTERN

Begin with a Magic Circle; CH1.

Round 1: 12 DC in MC. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (12)

1st Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. In same St, 2DC, CH2, SL ST. This is your first petal. (SL ST to next St. In same St, CH2, 2DC, CH2, SL ST to same St) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 2 (BLO – You’re now going to work around Round 1 again, this time working in the loop that you ignored during the first round of petals): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 1. CH1. 2DC in same ST. 2 DC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (24)

2nd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 3 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 2. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in next ST. (2DC in next ST, DC in next ST) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (36)

3rd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Round 4 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 3. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 2 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (48)

4th Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in next ST. 2 TR in next ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. To complete flower, SL ST to 1^st BLO of Round 4. (12 petals)

Round 5 (BLO): SL ST to 1^st back loop of Round 4. CH1. 2DC in same ST, DC in each of the next 3 STS. (2DC in next ST, DC in each of the next 3 STS) around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (60)

5th Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. 2TR in each of the next 3 STS. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next ST, CH2, DC in same ST. 2TR in each of the next 3 STS. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1^st CH2. (12 petals)

Fasten off and weave in ends, or keep adding increase rounds and petal rounds to make it even bigger!
May 6, 2015
Buttoned Throw Pillow

I’ve been watching a lot of HGTV lately. We purchased our first house this past fall, and for the first time in my life, I have the final say (well, with the husband of course) on what my home looks like! We’ve already tackled our dining room, painting it the most beautiful shade of blue. Next on the list? The living room! While it’ll take us a little while to save the money for this next makeover, that doesn’t stop me from imagining the possibilities. So, when I see the big reveals on shows like Fixer Upper (my favorite!) and Love It Or List It (also a great one), I can’t help but analyze all of their design choices and make mental notes of which ones would fit nicely into my own dream living room.

One thing I know for sure about my living room makeover is that I want it to incorporate a few of my own handmade items. I can definitely see my Mason Jar Cozy up on the fireplace mantel, and a larger version of my Sweet Ocean Breeze blanket draped over the couch. This newest project, the Buttoned Throw Pillow, is just one more way to incorporate my yarn obsession into the space!

This pattern is for a 12″ throw pillow, but it’s not difficult to make bigger (or smaller). I’ve included those directions in the notes section of the pattern.

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12″ BUTTONED THROW PILLOW

Hook: H (5.00mm)
Yarn: About 260 yards (130 per side) of your favorite medium worsted weight yarn
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: 4 rows of 4 SC = 1 square inch
You’ll also need: 12″ uncovered throw pillow (I got mine at Hobby Lobby), yarn needle, decorative buttons of your choice, and tools to attach buttons.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) The buttons are decorative only, so I didn’t worry about adding button holes. If you wanted to make this a removable pillowcase, you could probably figure it out pretty easily. I really wanted the raised seam look all the way around the pillow so I opted not to overlap the fabric.
(3) To make the pattern for a larger or smaller pillow, just make sure to begin with an odd number of chains. Your starting chain and first row, when stretched, should barely touch both seams of your insert pillow (keeping in mind that you’ll be adding a couple small rows of border at the end).

PATTERN FOR FRONT SIDE:

Ch 37.
Row 1: SC in 2nd Ch from hook and in each Ch across. (36)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. SC in each St across. (36)
Rows 3-6: Repeat Row 2.
Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Sk 1st St. SC+DC in next St. (Sk next St, SC+DC in next St) across. (36)
Rows 8-36: Repeat Row 7.

Edging:
Round 1: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC. You should have 36 SC on each side.
Round 2: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC. You should have 38 SC on each side. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Finishing:
Attach buttons evenly spaced down the 1st 6 rows of the pillow (where you did the SCs only).

PATTERN FOR BACK SIDE:

Ch 37.
Row 1: SC+DC in 3rd Ch from hook. (Sk next St, SC+DC in next St) across. (36)
Row 2: Ch 1. Sk 1st St. SC+DC in next St. (Sk next St, SC+DC in next St) across. (36)
Rows 3-36: Repeat Row 2.

Edging:
Round 1: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC. You should have 36 SC on each side.
Round 2: Ch 1. SC evenly around all 4 sides of pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Join with Sl St to 1st SC. You should have 38 SC on each side. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sewing Sides Together:
Hold both sides together as you want them to be placed on the pillow. Join your yarn through both pieces, somewhere on the edge (I started in a corner). Ch1, then SC through the lined-up stitches from both pieces, seaming them together. Continue around 3 sides of the pillow, putting (SC, Ch1, SC) in each corner. Insert pillow. Continue to SC along the remaining side, enclosing the pillow completely. Join with a Sl St to the first SC of the round, fasten off and weave in ends.

April 29, 2015
Basic Men’s Hat
Project status: Complete | Hats collected: 565

Please note that this pattern was originally a part of the Hats for the Homeless campaign from 2015. We are no longer collecting hats for this project, but the pattern can still be found below!

BASIC MEN’S HAT SEAMLESS CROCHET PATTERN

Hook: I (5.50mm)
Yarn: Soft worsted weight yarn (I typically use Hobby Lobby’s “I Love This Yarn” or Lion Brand’s “Vanna’s Choice”)
Difficulty: Easy

Notes:
- You will work in a continuous round. You will not join or turn. Use a stitch marker to keep track of your rows.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

With I hook, make a Magic Circle (also known as an Adjustable Loop).

Round 1: 8 HDC in magic circle. Do not join. (8)
Round 2: 2 HDC in first St from Round 1 and in each stitch around (16)
Round 3: (2 HDC in next St; 1 HDC in next) around (24)
Round 4: (2 HDC in next St; 1 HDC in each of the next 2 St) around (32)
Round 5: (2 HDC in next St; 1 HDC in each of the next 3 St) around (40)
Round 6: (2 HDC in next St; 1 HDC in each of the next 4 St) around (48)
Round 7: (2 HDC in next St; 1 HDC in each of the next 5 St) around (56)
Rounds 8-21: 1 HDC in each St around (56)
Rounds 22-25: 1 SC in each St around (56)

Fasten off and weave in ends.
April 13, 2015
Mason Jar Cover

This past fall, our family moved from Indiana to Michigan. We purchased a cute little house (our first!) and settled in just in time to see the huge tree in the front yard shed its fire-red leaves, and before we’d even unpacked everything, the winter chill was moving in. So you’ll understand what I’m saying when I tell you that I’ve waited rather impatiently for spring to come. We’ve never had a nice backyard, but we do now; and it even comes with a cute porch that’s just begging for some DIY decor!

My first project? Mason jar cozies. I wanted to make something that would look cute during the day and, with the addition of a tea light, would cast a beautiful patterned shadow around it at night for those summer campfire evenings. I think a line of these would look stunning in the dark.

Of course, once I started to crochet, more ideas came into my mind for these cute mason jar cozies. They will look adorable as a vase for fresh flowers, or as part of a front porch “welcome” display. As you can see in my photos, I even got my husband to cut me some small budding limbs off of the big tree in our front yard, and now one of my cozies is on display in our dining room!

There are about as many uses for mason jars as there are stars in the sky, so why not make them look extra pretty too? I used wide-mouthed Ball Mason Jars in two different sizes (32oz and 16oz). Scroll down for the pattern in both sizes!

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MASON JAR COZY (FOR A BALL® 32OZ WIDE MOUTH QUART JAR)

Hook: H (5.00mm)
Yarn: Less than 1.5 oz of light (3) cotton yarn (I used Sinfonia in “Verde”)
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: After you complete round 4, the diameter of your circle should measure about 3″.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in a seamless round. Do not join at the end of rounds or chain unless instructed. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning of your rounds.

THE PATTERN:

Begin with a Magic Circle.

Round 1: 10 HDC in magic circle (10)
Round 2: 2 HDC in each St around (20)
Round 3: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around (30)
Round 4: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in each of the next 2 Sts) around (40)
Rounds 5-9: SC in each St around (40)
Round 10: (SC+DC in next St, SK next St) around (40)
Rounds 11-24 (or until just before the cozy comes to the point on the mason jar where the jar begins to narrow again): Repeat Round 10 (40)
Rounds 25-28: SC tightly in each St around (40)

Finish by slip stitching into the next 3 stitches to smooth out the final row. Fasten off and weave in ends.

MASON JAR COZY (FOR A BALL® 16OZ WIDE MOUTH PINT JAR)

Hook: H (5.00mm)
Yarn: Less than 1 oz of light (3) cotton yarn (I used Sinfonia in “Verde”)
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: After you complete round 3, the diameter of your circle should measure about 2.25″.

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in a seamless round. Do not join at the end of rounds or chain unless instructed. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning of your rounds.

THE PATTERN:

Begin with a Magic Circle.

Round 1: 10 HDC in magic circle (10)
Round 2: 2 HDC in each St around (20)
Round 3: (2 HDC in next, 1 HDC in next) around (30)
Round 4: 2 HDC in next St, 1 HDC in each of the next 6 Sts, 2 HDC in next St, 1 HDC in each of the next 7 Sts. Repeat. (34)
Rounds 5-9: SC in each St around (34)
Round 10: (SC+DC in next St, SK next St) around (34)
Rounds 11-19 (or until just before the cozy comes to the point on the mason jar where the jar begins to narrow again): Repeat Round 10 (34)
Rounds 20-23: SC tightly in each St around (34)

Finish by slip stitching into the next 3 stitches to smooth out the final row. Fasten off and weave in ends.

April 6, 2015
Sandy Cowl
Last winter, I had the privilege of designing a cowl for All Free Crochet’s blog, Stitch & Unwind. I had a lot of fun doing it, and I am loving the final result. Now, the full pattern is available right here on my blog!

This cowl is made with Lion Brand’s Heartland in “Grand Canyon”, and I highly recommend using it because it makes the detailing and drape sooo pretty. I also made a matching slouch hat pattern!

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This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

SANDY COWL

Size: 30” around x 10” tall
Gauge: With I hook, 6 SC = 2”
Stitches Used: CH, SC, DC, SL ST

You Will Need:
- Approx. 280 yards of your favorite worsted weight yarn (I used Lion Brand’s Heartland)
- Hook Size I (5.50mm)
- Yarn needle
- Stitch marker
Notes:
(1) Pattern is written in American standard terms.
(2) Pattern is begun in turned rounds, then switches to a seamless round and back again. These changes are noted in the pattern. Use a stitch marker during the seamless round to keep track of your rounds.

INSTRUCTIONS

To begin:
CH 91.

Round 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each ST across. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC, being careful not to twist the round. (90)

Round 2: CH1; turn. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (90)

Rounds 3-7: Repeat Round 2. (90)

You will now work in a seamless round. Do not join, chain or turn until instructed to do so.

Round 8: SC+DC in first ST, SK next ST. (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around. (90)

Round 9: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around. (90)

(Wondering if your placement is correct? Your SC+DC combos should be completed in the tops of each SC from previous row, with each DC from previous row being left empty.)

Rounds 10-26: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around. (90)

Round 27: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around, substituting a (SC+SL ST) for the last (SC+DC) combination. (90)

Round 28: CH1. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to top of first SC. (90)

You will now work in turned rounds.

Round 29: CH1; turn. SC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to to of first SC. (90)

Rounds 30-34: Repeat Round 29. (90)

Fasten off and weave in ends.
January 8, 2015