Category: Crochet Patterns

Sandy Slouch Hat

A new slouch hat pattern! YAY!

I love slouch hats. And you guys must, too, because the Jenny Slouch quickly became one of my most popular patterns of all time (“all time”, of course, referring to the one year I’ve been blogging). There’s just something about a cute slouch that makes you feel extra adorable when you’re out in the cold. And it’s a great way to hide a bad hair day, which – as a tired mom of two toddler boys – is almost a daily thing for me.

Here’s a new slouch pattern I’ve been working on, and it even has a matching cowl that I think you’ll also love, which I originally designed for All Free Crochet’s blog, Stitch & Unwind!

The button on the hat is purely decorative, meaning there’s no buttonhole. (I figure, why go to the trouble of making it functional, when you’re never going to need to unbutton it, anyway?)

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SANDY SLOUCH

Hooks: K (6.5mm) and I (5.5mm)
Yarn: About 175 yards of worsted weight acrylic yarn; I used <1 skein of Lion Brand Heartland in “Grand Canyon”. (Heartland is a lighter worsted weight yarn, comparable to Bernat Satin or Red Heart Soft, so if you use something a little thicker like Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn it may turn out slightly larger.)
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: A round of HDCs will = 1″. So, when you complete your 6th and final increase round, it should measure about 6″ in diameter.
Finished Size: Approximately 10″ tall, and 9.5″ wide
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker (such as a bobby pin), 1″ button and materials to attach button

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in a seamless round until the band, when it becomes turned rounds. Do not join, chain or turn unless instructed to do so.
(3) Some have struggled with understanding that is happening once you get to the band and button area, so here’s an explanation I replied with in the comments section that seemed to help, and you can come back to this if you get tripped up too. What you’re doing in Round 21 is setting the base for your flap. Because of the flap, we are not able to work in continuous or joined rounds. We’re just going to be going back and forth, building the band, including the flap. (Which is why the stitch totals switch from 60 to 66, because we created 6 additional stitches with our CH7.) So in Round 22, you’re SCing back down that CH7 that you’ve just made, and then continuing on all the way around the hat until you reach the end of that round. (Technically it would be considered a row at this point, but I thought that would be even more confusing.) Then you’ll CH1 and turn, and SC back around the hat, all the way back up to the top of the CH7 section you made, then CH1, turn around and SC back down the flap and around the hat. You’re going to keep doing this until the pattern tells you to stop, and you will end up with a flap that is the same thickness as the band.

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THE PATTERN

To begin: With K hook, make a magic circle (view a tutorial here).

Round 1: 10 HDC in magic circle. (10)

Round 2: 2HDC in each ST around. (20)

Round 3: (2HDC in next ST, HDC in next ST) around. (30)

Round 4: (2HDC in next ST, HDC in next 2 STS) around. (40)

Round 5: (2HDC in next ST, HDC in next 3 STS) around. (50)

Round 6: (2HDC in next ST, HDC in next 4 STS) around. (60)

Round 7: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around. (60)

Rounds 8-20: Repeat Round 7.

Round 21: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) 29 times (until you only have 2 STS left in the round). SC in next ST, SL ST in next ST. CH7. (60)
(Note: the CH7 will form the base of our button flap.)

Switch to I hook. You will now crochet the band of the hat, and we want it to be a little snug so that it doesn’t fall off.

Round 22: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Continue to SC around. (66)

Rounds 23-29: CH1, turn. SC around. (66)

Finishing: CH1 (do NOT turn). SC around the entire edge of the hat, including the button flap, putting 2SC in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the first SC. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Button: Place your button in the center of the flap and, using yarn or thread, secure it through both layers (the flap and the band underneath).

January 8, 2015
Maribel Boot Cuffs

Boot cuffs have become increasingly popular over the past couple of years, and the trend doesn’t seem to be slowing down a bit. It’s probably because they are such a simply cute way to bring an outfit together. And for us crocheters, they’re quick and easy to make.

The Maribel Boot Cuffs pair perfectly with the Maribel Cowl, and can even be made from the yarn you’ll have left over from making the cowl. This set has quickly become a favorite of mine, and I hope you’ll love it, too!

The pattern below is for size small boot cuffs. It is worked in a way that allows you to easily increase their size, by merely adding more rows until they are the length you prefer.

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MARIBEL BOOT CUFFS

Hook: I (5.50 mm)
Yarn: Worsted (For 2 cuffs, size small, I used about 150 yards of Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in “linen”)
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: A row of 8 HDC = about 2″
Finished Size: Approximately 13″ around before sewing, and 6″ tall
Other Materials Needed: 10 small buttons, needle and thread for embellishing, yarn needle

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern uses a stitch I call RibHDC, in which you complete your half double crochet stitch in the single loop just below the loops you usually use. This is what gives the boot cuffs a faux-knit, ribbed look. For a visual explanation, you can view this photo tutorial.
(3) HELPFUL HINT: When RibHDC-ing, sometimes it’s easy to miss the last stitch of the row because it ends up at a bit of an angle. So, if your boot cuff is getting skinnier and skinnier, you’re probably neglecting it. Counting your stitches will solve this problem. 🙂
(4) Starting Ch does not count as an HDC.

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THE PATTERN (MAKE 2)

To begin: Ch 23.

Row 1: HDC in 2nd Ch from hook, and in each St across. (22 HDC not counting the Ch)

Row 2: Ch1; turn. RibHDC across. (22 RibHDC)

Rows 3-31 (for size small; or, add rows until boot cuff is the length you want it to be… just make sure you end with both tails on the same side of the cowl, as in Step 1’s photo below): Ch1; turn. RibHDC across. (22 RibHDC)

Fasten off, leaving a long finishing tail. To sew together:

Lay cuff flat so that both tails are on the right side (photo 1). Fold cuff so that the end with the long finishing tail overlaps the other end by about 1/2″ (photo 2). This overlap will help give the impression that the buttons we add are actually fastening the cuff together (but without the hassle of actually having to button up the cuff). Use the finishing tail to sew the ends together. I put my seam at the center of the 2 ending rows (which is actually photo 4), and down through the exposed loops of the row below (photo 3), working up and down this line. Fasten off and weave in your ends.

Sew 5 buttons onto each cuff, evenly spaced down the seam that you just sewed.

December 10, 2014
Maribel Cowl

I never publish a pattern I’m not excited about. But sometimes, when a certain idea comes along, what I see in my head translates to what I create with my hands… and I totally fall in love with the finished product. This is one of those patterns! I just love it.

The Maribel Cowl (along with its matching Boot Cuffs) is possibly one of my favorite personal designs of my first year in business (which wraps up in January, believe it or not!). It’s not that spectacular; it’s actually really simple. But it’s a stitch that I don’t often see being used, and the result is a gorgeously textured, almost faux-knit accessory that will keep you stylish all winter long.

This pattern would look great in any color, but I am almost always partial to natural, neutral colors, so I chose Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in “linen.” I love how it came out. If you follow my lead, you’re going to need 2 skeins, so be sure to check your dye lots! It’s always a good thing to do, but I’ve noticed that this particular color of ILTY tends to vary greatly and can often take on an almost pinkish hue. Just a tip.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

MARIBEL COWL

Hook: K (6.50mm)
Yarn: Worsted (I used about 500 yards, or less than 2 skeins, of Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in “linen”)
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: Not crucial, but a row of 10 HDC = about 3″
Finished Size: Approximately 34″ around, 15″ tall

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern uses a stitch I call RibHDC, in which you complete your half double crochet stitch in the single loop just below the loops you usually use. This is what gives the cowl a faux-knit, ribbed look. For a visual explanation, you can view this photo tutorial.
(3) HELPFUL HINT: When RibHDC-ing, sometimes it’s easy to miss the last stitch of the row because it ends up at a bit of an angle. So, if your cowl is getting skinnier and skinnier, you’re probably neglecting it. Counting your stitches will solve this problem. 🙂
(4) Starting Ch does not count as an HDC.

THE PATTERN

To begin: Ch 54.

Row 1: HDC in 2nd Ch from hook, and in each St across. (53 HDC not counting the Ch)

Row 2: Ch1; turn. RibHDC across. (53 RibHDC)

Rows 3-88 (or until cowl is about 34″ long): Ch1; turn. RibHDC across. (53 RibHDC)

Fasten off, leaving a long finishing tail. Use the tail to whip stitch the last row to the first row, joining the piece into a cowl. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

December 10, 2014
Thick ‘n Cozy Ribbed Cowl

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This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

THICK ‘N COZY RIBBED COWL

Hook: P (11.50mm)
Yarn: Super Bulky (I used 3 skeins of Lion Brand’s “Hometown USA”)
Buttons: 4 large. I used 1″ wooden buttons.
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: Not crucial, but a row of 10 HDC = about 6″
Finished Size: Approximately 27″ around, 13″ tall

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in rows, then sewn together at the end. The buttons are optional, and you may choose to use them as functioning buttons, but I decided to sew the cowl together and add the buttons to be decorative. (In other words, in my finished cowl, the sewing is holding it together, not the buttons; although, it appears as though the buttons are functional.) If you choose to not sew your cowl together and instead rely on functioning buttons or toggles, be sure to use large enough buttons that they will not slip through the large spaces created by using such a bulky yarn and large hook.
(3) As noted above, this pattern uses a stitch I call RibHDC, in which you complete your half double crochet stitch in the single loop just below the loops you usually use. This is what gives the cowl a faux-knit, ribbed look. For a visual explanation, you can view this photo tutorial.
(4) HELPFUL HINT: When RibHDC-ing, sometimes it’s easy to miss the last stitch of the row because it ends up at a bit of an angle. So, if your cowl is getting skinnier and skinnier, you’re probably neglecting it. Counting your stitches will solve this problem. 🙂

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THE PATTERN

To begin: Ch 43.

Row 1: HDC in 2nd Ch from hook, and in each St across. (42 HDC not counting the Ch)

Row 2: Ch1; turn. RibHDC across. (42 RibHDC)

Rows 3-19 (or until scarf is about 12″ tall): Ch1; turn. RibHDC across. (42 RibHDC)

Row 20: Ch1; turn. SC evenly around the entire cowl.

Fasten off, leaving a long finishing tail. Weave in your starting tail only, then choose one of the following options for finishing.

Finishing Option 1: Decorative Buttons or Toggles
Fold your cowl so that the ends meet. Overlap one edge about 1″ over the other edge, then use your long finishing tail to sew them together, going up and down through both edges of the cowl with small stitches. Fasten off and weave in. Attach 4 large buttons or toggles in even increments down the seam so that it appears as though the cowl has been “buttoned up.”

Finishing Option 2: Functional Buttons or Toggles
Weave in your finishing tail (you won’t need it for this option). Sew 4 large buttons or toggles evenly down one side. To wear, slip the buttons or toggles through the stitches of the other end of the cowl.

December 9, 2014
Diamond Dust Cowl

I named this pattern the Diamond Dust Cowl because I love how the white yarn looks like a light dusting of snowflakes at the start of a snowfall, when the sun is shining down and making everything extra bright. I chose dark wooden toggles to attach to the cowl, and I love the contrast of the rich brown against the white. Of course, the cowl can be worked up in any color you choose.

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

DIAMOND DUST COWL

Hook: P (11.50mm)
Yarn: Super Bulky (I used 3 skeins of Lion Brand’s “Hometown USA” in New York White)
Buttons: 4 large. I used 1.75″ wooden toggles.
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: Not crucial, but a row of 5 SC+DC combos = about 7″
Finished Size: Approximately 29″ around, 14″ tall

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in rows, then sewn together at the end. The buttons or toggles are optional, and you may choose to use them as functioning buttons, but I decided to sew the cowl together and add the toggles to be decorative. (In other words, in my finished cowl, the sewing is holding it together, not the toggles; although, it appears as though the toggles are functional.) If you choose to not sew your cowl together and instead rely on functioning buttons or toggles, be sure to use large enough buttons that they will not slip through the large spaces created by using such a bulky yarn and large hook.
(3) To help you get a nice straight edge, you’ll place your last SC+DC combo of each row into the Ch2 space from the previous row.

THE PATTERN

To begin: Ch 47.

Row 1: In 3rd Ch from hook, 1SC + 1DC. (Skip next St; 1 SC + 1 DC in next St) across.

Row 2: Ch2; turn. (Skip next St; 1 SC + 1 DC in next St) across. (Hint: To get a nice straight edge, place your last SC+DC combo of the row into the Ch2 space from the previous row. Follow this hint for all future rows as well.)

Row 3-20 (or until scarf is about 14″ tall): Ch2; turn. (Skip next St; 1 SC + 1 DC in next St) across.

Fasten off, leaving a long finishing tail. Weave in your starting tail only, then choose one of the following options for finishing.

Finishing Option 1: Decorative Buttons or Toggles
Fold your cowl so that the ends meet. Overlap one edge about 1″ over the other edge, then use your long finishing tail to sew them together, going up and down through both edges of the cowl with small stitches. Fasten off and weave in. Attach 4 large buttons or toggles in even increments down the seam so that it appears as though the cowl has been “buttoned up.”

Finishing Option 2: Functional Buttons or Toggles
Weave in your finishing tail (you won’t need it for this option). Sew 4 large buttons or toggles evenly down one side. To wear, slip the buttons or toggles through the stitches of the other end of the cowl.

December 9, 2014
Grit Stitch Infinity Scarf

Prefer a PDF?

This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF.

All-Access Passholders get the ad-free version of this and all of my other blog patterns. It’s a pretty sweet deal, if I do say so myself! Learn more about it here or continuing scrolling for the free version.

GRIT STITCH INFINITY SCARF

Hook: P (11.50mm)
Yarn: Super Bulky (I used 3 skeins of Lion Brand’s “Hometown USA”)
Difficulty: Easy
Gauge: Not crucial, but a row of 4 (sc,dc, sk next st) combos = about 6″
Finished Size: Approximately 58″ around, 7.5″ wide

Notes:
(1) This pattern is worked in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in a seamless round. Do not join or chain except when instructed. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning of your rounds.

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THE PATTERN

To begin: Ch 81.

Row 1: SC in 2nd chain from hook and in each St across. Bring ends together, being careful not to twist the chain, and join with a slip stitch to the top of the first SC.

Round 2 (We will now work in seamless rounds): Do not chain. Skip the first St. (SC+DC in next St, Sk next St) around.

Rounds 3-9 (or until scarf is about 7.5″ wide): (SC+DC in next St, Sk next St) around. (Wondering if your placement is correct? Your SC+DC combos should be completed in loops from each SC from previous row, with each DC from previous row being left empty.)

Slip Stitch into the next 3 stitches to smooth out the row, then fasten off and weave in ends.

December 9, 2014
Simply Single Crochet Infinity Scarf

The Simple Single Crochet Infinity Scarf is the ultimate beginner scarf, because it uses one of the first stitches you (most likely) learned. It works up fast because of the super bulky yarn, and the finished texture is awesome.

THE PATTERN

To begin: Ch 91.

Row 1: SC in 2nd chain from hook. SC across. Bring ends together, being careful not to twist the first row. Join with a slip stitch to the first SC of the row. Do not chain.
(You can also do a chainless foundation stitch (FSC) for the first row of 90 SC. If you don’t know how to do this, check out this tutorial. It will change your life. Be sure to join the FSC, and don’t twist it in the meantime.)

Round 2 (We will now work in rounds): SC in first St of previous row, and SC around.

Rounds 3-13 (or until scarf is about 7″ wide): SC around.

Slip Stitch into the next 3 stitches to smooth out the row, then fasten off and weave in ends.

December 9, 2014
Wildflower Granny Square No. 2
Today I am excited to be joining The Blog Hop Crochet Along! Nine other bloggers and I are teaming up to release a new afghan square pattern every day for a month. Crochet along with us and you will have a gorgeous new afghan just in time for the holiday season!

Here’s how it is going to work:
- Every day (M-F) a new square pattern will be posted on one of our ten blogs.
- You can join in the fun by crocheting each day’s square on that day whenever you have time.
- Share your progress and post photos of your squares in our facebook group.
- By the end of the Crochet Along you will have twenty 12″ squares all ready to be pieced together into a beautiful afghan just in time for the holiday season.
- Finally, we will be hosting some fabulous giveaways! You could win Lion Brand yarn to make your own afghan, $100 CASH money, OR our COMPLETED AFGHAN! That’s right, we are going to be piecing all of our squares together and shipping an afghan out to one very lucky winner.
Hopeful Honey – Persia Lou – Little Monkeys Crochet
Fiber Flux – Loopsan One Dog Woof – Maybe Matilda
Dream a Little Bigger – Whistle & Ivy – Gleeful Things

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Today I am sharing the 12″ Wildflower Granny Square [No. 2]. This, like my last Square-A-Day contribution, is a modified version of my much smaller Wildflower Granny Square. You can find links to all the other participating patterns at the end of this post. The links will be updated daily!

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12″ WILDFLOWER GRANNY SQUARE [NO. 2]

Finished Size: About 12″ square
Abbreviations Used:
- Ch – Chain
- Sl St – Slip Stitch
- SC – Single Crochet
- HDC – Half Double Crochet
- DC – Double Crochet
- TR- Treble (or Triple) Crochet
- FLO – Front Loops Only
- BLO- Back Loops Only
- BPDC – Back Post Double Crochet
Yarn: Medium worsted (I used Wool-Ease from Lion Brand)
Hook: Size H (5.00mm)
Notes:
(1) Pattern is written in American standard terms.
(2) The square is built around the flower (so the flower will not need to be attached at the end).
(3) Beginning chains do NOT count as the first stitch in the final row count. When joining, you’ll slip stitch to the top of the first stitch (not the chain).
(4) I’ve included [New Color] in the pattern whenever I chose to change colors. I think it looks cleaner to attach a new color before joining at the end of a row, but you do what’s familiar to you. The Lion Brand Wool-Ease colors I used in the photo above, in order of introduction, are Dark Rose Heather, Grey Heather, and Violet.
(5) Don’t overlook the switch to Back Post Double Crochet (BPDC) for round 11! Lots of people missed that part of my first Blog Hop contribution square, but I think it adds so much to the finished product. 🙂

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THE FLOWER:

Begin with a Magic Circle.

Round 1: Ch1. 12 HDC in Magic Circle. [New Color] Join to the top of the first HDC with a Sl St. (12)

Round 2 (work this round in BLO): Ch2; 2 HDC in same. 2 HDC in next and in each St around. Join to the top of the first HDC with a Sl St. Take a moment to weave in the tails from the first color, and the starting tail of the current color. It will help to get them out of the way. (24)

The next round is worked in 2 parts: the petals, and then the base behind it. Just follow the instructions and you’ll be fine. 🙂

Round 3, part 1 (work this round in FLO): Ch2. DC in same. DC in next; Ch2 and Sl St to same St. This is your first petal. (Sl St to next st. Ch 2. DC in same. DC in next. Ch2 and Sl St to same St) around, for a total of 12 petals.

Round 3, part 2: Turn flower over. You will see a circle that is made up of the back loops that we didn’t use in Round 3.1 (I’ve highlighted this circle in green in the photo below). These are the loops we will use now. Ch1; Sl St into the nearest loop [See Figure 1]. Ch2; 2 DC in same, DC in next. (2 DC in next, DC in next) around [Figure 2]. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St [Figure 3]. (36)

Round 4, part 1 (work this round in FLO): Ch2. DC in same St. 2 TR in next. DC in next. Ch2 and Sl St to same St. This is your first petal. (Sl St to next St. Ch2. DC in same. 2 TR in next. DC in next. Ch2 and Sl St to same St) around, for a total of 12 petals.

THE SQUARE:

Fasten off and weave in the tail. Turn flower over to view a new circle of back loops, just like the ones from Round 3. Attach [New Color] yarn via one of the loops [Figure 4].

Round 4, part 2: Ch2. 2DC in same St, DC in each of the next 2 Sts. (2DC in next, DC in each of the next 2 Sts) around. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (48)

Round 5: Ch2. In same St: 2 DC, Ch2, 2 DC (first corner). DC in next St. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. SC in each of the next 3 Sts. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. DC in next St. (In next St: 2 DC, Ch2, 2 DC. DC in next St. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. SC in each of the next 3 Sts. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. DC in next St.) Repeat ( ) 2 more times. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St.

Round 6: Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 19 DCs on each side.)

Round 7: Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 23 DCs on each side.)

Round 8: Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. [New Color] Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 27 DCs on each side.)

Round 9: Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. [New Color] Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 31 DCs on each side.)

Round 10: Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 35 DCs on each side.)

Round 11 (note the change to BPDC): Ch2. BPDC in same St and in each St around, but when you come to corner spaces, simply CH2; then begin with your BPDCs across the next side. Join to the top of the first BPDC with a Sl St.(When you complete this round, there should be 35 BPDCs on each side.)

Round 12: Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 39 DCs on each side.)

Fasten off and weave in ends.
November 17, 2014
Wildflower Granny Square No. 1
Today I am excited to be joining The Blog Hop Crochet Along! Nine other bloggers and I are teaming up to release a new afghan square pattern every day for a month. Crochet along with us and you will have a gorgeous new afghan just in time for the holiday season!

Here’s how it is going to work:
- Every day (M-F) a new square pattern will be posted on one of our ten blogs.
- You can join in the fun by crocheting each day’s square on that day whenever you have time.
- Share your progress and post photos of your squares in our facebook group.
- By the end of the Crochet Along you will have twenty 12″ squares all ready to be pieced together into a beautiful afghan just in time for the holiday season.
- Finally, we will be hosting some fabulous giveaways! You could win Lion Brand yarn to make your own afghan, $100 CASH money, OR our COMPLETED AFGHAN! That’s right, we are going to be piecing all of our squares together and shipping an afghan out to one very lucky winner.
Hopeful Honey – Persia Lou – Little Monkeys Crochet
Fiber Flux – Loopsan One Dog Woof – Maybe Matilda
Dream a Little Bigger – Whistle & Ivy – Gleeful Things

—
—

Today I am sharing the 12″ Wildflower Granny Square [No. 1]. This is a modified version of my much smaller Wildflower Granny Square. You can find links to all the other participating patterns at the end of this post. The links will be updated daily!

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

12″ WILDFLOWER GRANNY SQUARE [NO. 1]

Finished Size: About 12″ square
Abbreviations Used:
- Ch – Chain
- Sl St – Slip Stitch
- SC – Single Crochet
- HDC – Half Double Crochet
- DC – Double Crochet
- TR- Treble (or Triple) Crochet
- FLO – Front Loops Only
- BLO- Back Loops Only
- BPDC – Back Post Double Crochet
Yarn: Medium worsted (I used Wool-Ease from Lion Brand)
Hook: Size H (5.00mm)
Notes:
(1) Pattern is written in American standard terms.
(2) The square is built around the flower (so the flower will not need to be attached at the end).
(3) Beginning chains do NOT count as the first stitch in the final row count. When joining, you’ll slip stitch to the top of the first stitch (not the chain).
(4) I’ve included [New Color] in the pattern whenever I chose to change colors. I think it looks cleaner to attach a new color before joining at the end of a row, but you do what’s familiar to you. The Lion Brand Wool-Ease colors I used in the photo above, in order of introduction, are Seaspray, Natural Heather, and Eggplant.

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THE FLOWER:

Begin with a Magic Circle.

Round 1: Ch1. 12 HDC in Magic Circle. Join to the top of the first HDC with a Sl St. (12)

Round 2: Ch1; 2 HDC in same. 2 HDC in next and in each St around. [New Color] Join to the top of the first HDC with a Sl St. (24)

Round 3 (work this round in BLO): Ch2; 2 DC in same, DC in next. (2 DC in next, DC in next) around. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (36)

Round 4: Ch2; 2 DC in same, DC in each of the next 2 Sts. (2 DC in next, DC in each of the next 2 Sts) around. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (48)

The next round is worked in 2 parts: the petals, and then the base behind it. Just follow the instructions and you’ll be fine. 🙂

Round 5, Part 1 (work this round in FLO): Ch3; DC in same St, 2 TR in next, 2 TR in next, DC in next, Ch3 and Sl St to same St as DC. You’ve completed one petal. (Sl St to the next St. Ch3, DC in same, 2 TR in next, 2 TR in next, DC in next, Ch3 and Sl St to same St as DC.) around. Sl St to first St of the round.

It helps, at this point, to fasten off and weave in all ends; then, proceed with the next instructions.

THE SQUARE:

Turn flower over. Attach [New Color] yarn via one of the loops on the back side of the finished flower, as in Figure 1, below. (Remember in Round 5, Part 1 when we worked in FLO? The loop we didn’t use is the loop we’re using now.)

Round 5, Part 2: Ch2; 2 DC in same, DC in each of the next 3 Sts. (2 DC in next, DC in each of the next 3 Sts) around. (see figures 2 and 3). Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (60)

Round 6: Ch2. In same St: 2 DC, Ch2, 2 DC (first corner). DC in each of the next 2 Sts. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. SC in each of the next 4 Sts. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. DC in each of the next 2 Sts. (In next St: 2 DC, Ch2, 2 DC. DC in each of the next 2 Sts. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. SC in each of the next 4 Sts. HDC in each of the next 3 Sts. DC in each of the next 2 Sts.) Repeat ( ) 2 more times. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St.

Round 7: Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. [New Color] Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 22 DCs on each side.)

Round 8: Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. [New Color] Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 26 DCs on each side.)

Round 9: Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 30 DCs on each side.)

Round 10 (note the change to BPDC): Ch2. BPDC in same St and in each St around, but when you come to corner spaces, simply CH2; then begin with your BPDCs across the next side. [New Color] Join to the top of the first BPDC with a Sl St.(When you complete this round, there should be 30 BPDCs on each side.)

Round 11: Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. [New Color] Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 34 DCs on each side.)

Round 12: Ch2. DC in same St and in each St around, putting (2 DC + CH2 + 2 DC) in each CH2 corner space from previous round. Join to the top of the first DC with a Sl St. (When you complete this round, there should be 38 DCs on each side.)

Fasten off and weave in ends.
November 10, 2014
Olivia’s Preemie Hat

This is my first year participating in the 12 Days of Christmas NICU Hat Challenge, and I am so honored to be a part of such an awesome and inspiring project! The challenge for the designers was to come up with a preemie hat pattern that relied on texture or color change for originality. (NICU babies, and hospital babies in general, are not allowed to have any kind of embellishment on their hats due to the potential for choking).

(By the way, if you want to join this awesome challenge starting November 20, 2014, either follow me on Facebook or sign up for my email list (under the main menu). When the challenge begins, you’ll know about it!)

As I started thinking about how to make my hat, I did quite a bit of reading on NICU hats. I learned that NICU wards go through hats like crazy. In an environment where even the mildest germs can make a tiny newborn take a turn for the worse, any hat that falls off a baby’s head and onto the floor cannot be put back on. So one little baby can go through multiple hats in a day. Doesn’t that put it in perspective for you? It does for me! NICU wards need these donations.

Another thing to keep in mind as you get ready to make preemie hats is that your yarn needs to be super soft. This isn’t the time to use Super Saver yarn. I made my hats with Bernat Satin, which is comparable in weight and feel to Caron Simply Soft. (Actually, the coral hat in the photos is Simply Soft.) I prefer Bernat Satin, but they both worked well for this project.

I found a chart online that showed the different hat sizes needed for the various weights of premature babies. I was only going to choose one to make a pattern for, but it went so quick that I decided to go ahead and make up all 4 sizes. So, below you’ll find patterns for 1-2 lbs, 2-3.5 lbs, 3.5-5 lbs, and 5-6 lbs.

I named my pattern after my niece, Olivia, who spent a few days in the NICU herself due to water on her lungs, low oxygen levels, anemia, and a few other issues. (That’s her in the photo, modeling a big-girl version of this pattern.) I remember visiting the day after she was born and seeing the exhaustion and fear in my sister’s eyes. Olivia wasn’t in a life-threatening situation, but even that (relatively) short stay in NICU was enough to completely overwhelm that new mommy, who had a husband in the middle of nursing school finals and a toddler son who needed her at home. It made me realize that every single family in the NICU has a story; from the babies who only stay a few days, to the tiniest newborns who fight for their lives for months or more, each new mommy and daddy goes through an emotional struggle that I know cannot even be imagined by those of us who have not experienced it.

I hope that every single hat that is made during this challenge will be a small blessing to the family whose little one wears it. (Even if it’s only for 5 minutes before it falls on the floor!)

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Quick note: One of my wonderful readers mentioned that her local hospital does not use homemade hats on the smallest babies. It’s probably a good idea to contact the hospital you’re going to donate to, and find out if they have any special policies as well!

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OLIVIA’S PREEMIE HAT

Skill Level: Easy
Finished Sizes: Listed on individual patterns
Gauge: The first 3 rounds of the sizes worked with an H hook should measure 2.5” across. The first 3 rounds of the sizes worked with an I hook should measure 2.75” across.
Stitches Used: Magic Circle, SC, HDC, DC, Sl St
Yarn: <1oz (per hat) of your favorite soft worsted weight yarn. (I used Bernat Satin and Caron Simply Soft.)
Hooks: Sizes H (5.0mm) or I (5.50mm) depending on which size you are making.
Notions: Yarn needle and stitch marker

Notes:
Pattern is written in American standard terms.
Pattern is worked in a seamless round. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each row.

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SIZE 1-2 LBS

(4” width when laid flat)

Hook Size: H (5.0mm)

Begin with a Magic Circle.
Row 1: Ch1. 10 HDC in Magic Circle. (10)
Row 2: 2 HDC in each St around. (20)
Row 3: (2 HDC in next St, HDC in next) around. (30)
Row 4: Sk 1^st St. (SC+DC) in next. Place your stitch marker in the SC to mark beginning of the row. (Sk next St; SC+DC in next) around, 13 times. Leave the last St empty.
Row 5: (SC+DC in next St, Sk next St) around.
Rows 6-8: Repeat Row 5.
Rows 9-11: SC around.

Slip stitch into the first stitch of the previous row, fasten off and weave in ends.

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SIZE 2-3.5 LBS

(4.5” width when laid flat)

Hook Size: I (5.5mm)

**Follow instructions for Size 1-2 lbs pattern, using an I hook instead of an H hook.**

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SIZE 3.5-5 LBS

(5” width when laid flat)

Hook Size: H (5.0mm)

Begin with a Magic Circle.
Row 1: Ch1. 10 HDC in Magic Circle. (10)
Row 2: 2 HDC in each St around. (20)
Row 3: (2 HDC in next St, HDC in next) around. (30)
Row 4: (2 HDC in next St, HDC in next 5 Sts) around. (35)
Row 5: Sk 1^st St. (SC+DC in next St, Sk next St) around.
Row 6: (SC+DC in next St, Sk next St) around.
Rows 7-9: Repeat Row 6.
Rows 10-12: SC around.

Slip stitch into the first stitch of the previous row, fasten off and weave in ends.

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SIZE 5-6 LBS

(5.5” width when laid flat)

Hook Size: I (5.5mm)

Begin with a Magic Circle.
Row 1: Ch1. 10 HDC in Magic Circle. (10)
Row 2: 2 HDC in each St around. (20)
Row 3: (2 HDC in next St, HDC in next) around. (30)
Row 4: (2 HDC in next St, HDC in next 2 Sts) around. (40)
Row 5: Sk 1^st St. (SC+DC) in next. Place your stitch marker in the SC to mark beginning of the row. (Sk next St; SC+DC in next) around, 19 times. Leave the last St empty.
Row 6: (SC+DC in next St; Sk next St) around.
Rows 7-9: Repeat Row 6.
Rows 10-13: SC around.

Slip stitch into the first stitch of the previous row, fasten off and weave in ends.

November 5, 2014