I love buttoned cowls! I already have 3 on the blog (the Sparkly, the Apple Crisp and the Herringbone Buttoned Cowls), but I’ve been wanting to do a “comfy squares” version for a while. It seemed like a simple project for easing back into pattern designing after my little newborn-snuggles-filled hiatus, so on Henry’s first trip with me to the yarn store, we picked up a few skeins of Lion Brand’s Wool-Ease.

(Henry was a little overwhelmed by all the choices.)

I haven’t used this yarn much at all, but now that I’m reminded of what a nice drape it has, I’m definitely going to be using it more often!

I also picked up these cute wooden buttons. They’re 1-1/8″, and you’ll need two of them in your favorite style.

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COMFY SQUARES BUTTONED COWL

Difficulty: Easyish

Finished Size: 32″ wide x 13.5″ tall (when laid flat)

Hook:  H (5.0mm)

Yarn: About 470 yards of Wool-Ease yarn by Lion Brand (that’s less than 3 skeins). Wool-Ease is a #4 worsted yarn, and the sample is shown in “Natural Heather”.

Gauge: The first 8 rows of the pattern (the ribbing) should measure 2.25″ square.

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 2 buttons (1 1/8″), sewing needle, and thread to match yarn color.

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a single crochet and a half double crochet in the same stitch)
BLO (back loops only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
(3) The pattern is divided into 3 parts: the Top Band, the Body, and the Side Band. The pattern as a whole is worked in one piece (there is no sewing at the end).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: CH9.

Top Band, Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (8)

Rows 2-121: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Row 122 (buttonhole): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (6 + CH2)

Row 123: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. 2SC in CH2 space. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Rows 124-125: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Part 2: Body
(Note that for ease of row counting, we are referring to the next row as “Row 1” instead of “Row 126”.)

Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly down the long edge of the piece, putting 1SC in each row. (125)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) 57 times; 9 STS remain unworked (and will remain so for the remainder of Part 2). (116)

Rows 3-44: CH1, turn. SK first ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (116)

Note: At this point, you should be on the same side of the cowl as the buttonhole we made back in Row 122 of the Top Band. If you’re on the opposite side you probably miscounted something, but it’s no big deal; just do one more row to get yourself to where you need to be.

Row 45: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly up the side of the cowl, working toward the buttonhole, putting 1SC in each row until you reach the inner corner where the top band and the body meet. (43 SC)

Part 3: Side Band
(Remember back in Row 2 of the body, when we left 9 stitches unworked? We’re going to be working in those now.)

Side Band, Row 1 (highlighted in yellow in the photo below): SL ST to the closest unworked ST from Row 2 of the body section. CH1. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 unworked STS. SC in both loops of the final unworked ST. (8 SC)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Row 45 of the body. (8, + the 2 SL STS along Row 45)

Row 3: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

Rows 4-21: Repeat rows 2-3. (8)

Row 22 (buttonhole): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 3 STS. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Row 45 of the body. (6SC + CH2 buttonhole, + the 2 SL STS along Row 45)

Row 23: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. 2SC in CH2 space. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Rows 24-43: Repeat rows 2-3. (8)

Row 44: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in the final ST of Row 45 of the body. (8, + 1 SL ST along Row 45)

Edging: CH1, turn. SC evenly around the entire piece, putting 3SC in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the first SC.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Buttons: Lay your cowl flat, with the corner buttonhole at the top left corner. Your first button should be sewn 1.25″ from the bottom edge and 1.25″ from the right edge; your second button should be sewn in line with the first button, 1.25″ from the bottom edge and 7″ from the right edge.

To Wear:

It can feel a bit tricky at first! Start by putting it around your neck with the buttonhole on your left, and the Top Band at the top. The button that is NOT in the corner is the button that will go through the top buttonhole. Once you’ve joined those together, you can slip the corner button through the second buttonhole, then tuck the extra fabric under the cowl. If you need a little extra help, watch this video of the Sparkly Buttoned Cowl (it’s the same style of cowl):

I don’t know about you, but the closer I get to Christmas, the more I tend to start using chunkier yarns. It’s not just because it’s getting colder outside; it’s also because bulky yarn works up faster, and we have a deadline, people!

So if you have someone on your Christmas list who loves cozy accessories, here’s an easy cowl pattern that uses one of my favorite stitches and Woolspun yarn from Lion Brand. (It’s the same yarn, and color, I used in the Rustic Slouch & Infinity Scarf set.)

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CAROLINE COWL

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 28″ around x 11″ tall

Hook: N (9.00mm)

Yarn: About 240 yards (2 skeins) of Lion Brand Woolspun, a bulky #5 yarn.

Gauge: 10 rows of 5 (SK1, SC+HDC in 1) combos = 4″ (see “Abbreviations” below for explanation of SC+HDC)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 5 buttons (1″)

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
SC+HDC (this just means to put a SC and an HDC in the same stitch)
   BLO (back loops only)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH1 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
(3) The buttons are decorative (non-functional).
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: CH6.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (5)

Rows 2-70: CH1, turn. SC in BLO of each ST across. (5)

Row 71: CH1; do not turn. Working down the long edge now, put 1 SC in each row. (70)

Row 72-92: CH1, turn. SK 1st ST, SC+HDC in next ST. (SK next ST, SC+HDC in next ST) across. (70)

Edging: CH1, turn. SC evenly around the entire cowl, putting (SC, CH1, SC) in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the first SC.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Buttons
Overlap the two shorter sides of the cowl by about 1″, and use pins to hold it in place. Place and sew 5 buttons evenly spaced down the edge, being sure to sew through both layers.

In my attempt to put out more pattern sets this season, today’s pattern is a match for the previously-released Riverbed Slouch Hat – the Riverbed Cowl!

Just like the matching slouch, this cowl is soooo easy. It uses the same yarns as the hat — Lion Brand’s Tweed Stripes (shown in “Caramel”) and Vanna’s Choice (shown in “Linen”).

Click here to view the slouch hat pattern, or scroll down for the cowl pattern!

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RIVERBED COWL

Level: Easy

Size: 32″ around x 12″ tall

Materials:

• K hook (6.50mm) and I hook (5.5mm)
• Yarn needle
• 170 yards of Yarn A: Lion Brand Tweed Stripes (sample shown in Caramel) and 110 yards of Yarn B: Vanna’s Choice in a coordinating color (sample shown in Linen). Tweed Stripes is a Bulky #5 yarn, and Vanna’s Choice is a Worsted/Aran #4 yarn.
• Stitch marker (a bobby pin works great)

Gauge:
With larger hook, 6 rows of 7 HDC & SC (alternate each row) = 2″ square. (Gauge is not crucial in this pattern, as instructions for obtaining the correct final measurements are given throughout the pattern.)

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
CH (chain)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SC (single crochet)
HDC (half double crochet)
BLO (back loop only)

Notes:

(1) This pattern is written in American Standard terms.
(2) After you create the ribbed band, this pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round. Do not join, chain or turn until instructed. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
(3) In the pattern for the Slouch Hat, which was released first, the thicker #5 weight yarn was used first and was referred to as “Yarn A”, with the thinner #4 weight yarn being referred to as “Yarn B”. For consistency, I decided to keep those designations in this pattern even though we start with the thinner #4 weight yarn this time. (In case you were wondering why I start with “Yarn B” below.)

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

To begin:
Using smaller hook and Yarn B, CH7.

Row 1:  SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (6)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 4 STS. SC in last ST. (6)

Rows 3-92 (or until ribbing is about 28″ long): Repeat Row 2. (6)

Fasten off and use your tail to sew the short ends of the ribbing together to form a circle.

Body
Switch to larger hook. Attach Yarn A at the seam of the ribbing and CH1. We will now work in continuous rounds.

Round 1: SC evenly around the entire circle, putting 1SC in each ribbing row. (92)

Round 2: HDC in each ST around. (92)

Round 3: SC in each ST around. (92)

Rounds 4-27 (or until cowl measures about 11″ tall): Repeat Rounds 2 & 3. (92)

Attach Yarn B and switch back to smaller hook.

Rounds 28-31: SC in each ST around. (92)

Round 32: SC in each of the first 90 STS. SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. (92)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Every season, there seems to be one pattern that I am crazy excited about. I try to never put out anything that I’m not proud of, but there’s always one pattern that I think of as the highlight of my season. Last year it was the Rustic Slouch & Infinity Scarf set, and the year before that, the Sandy Cowl. This year, it’s the Shiplap Slouch & Cowl set, hands down!

Made with my favorite yarn, Cascade Longwood Sport, this set combines 3 of my favorite things: 3rd Loop HDC, Herringbone HDC, and fringe.

I actually designed the Shiplap Slouch a couple of months ago while on vacation in South Haven, Michigan:

And after I finished it, I just knew it needed a matching accessory, so I ordered more yarn and made a cowl!

I love me some fringe, but of course, it’s up to you if you want to add it.

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SHIPLAP COWL

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 27″ around x 10.5″ tall (not including fringe)

Hook: H (5.00mm)

Yarn: Approximately 370 yards of Cascade Longwood Sport, a #3 light yarn.

Gauge: 8 rows of 9 HHDC = 2″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker

Abbreviations Used:
ST (stitch)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
HDC (half double crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round until the band. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds and do not join, turn or chain unless instructed to do so.
(3) Since we are working in a seamless round, your ribbing rows will not meet up perfectly in the back. This is unavoidable, and the alternative (joining each round) is much, much more obvious. (Trust me, I tried it.)
(4) Pattern uses regular HDC to set up each ribbing row. The abbreviation is very similar to HHDC, so pay attention!
(5) To find the “3rd loop” (as mentioned in Round 13 and every 4 rows after that), reach over your top loops and insert your hook into the loop just past (below) the top loop that is furthest from you. (Also called the Camel Stitch or RibHDC.)

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

To begin: CH120. Join, being careful not to twist the chain. (Briana K has a brilliantly easy tutorial on how to get this right every time – click here to view!)

Round 1: CH1; HHDC in each ST around. (120)

Rounds 2-7: HHDC in each ST around. (120)

Round 8: HDC in each ST around. (120)

Round 9: HHDC in 3rd loop of each ST around. (120)

Round 10: HHDC in each ST around. (120)

Round 11: HHDC in each ST around. (120)

Round 12: HDC in each ST around. (120)

Rounds 13-37: Repeat Rounds 9-12. (120)

Rounds 38-39: HHDC in each ST around. (120)

Round 40: HHDC in each of the first 116 STS (4 STS remain). SC in each of the next 2 STS. SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS. (120)

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Fringe
Cut about 100 pieces of 9″ long fringe. Take 4 pieces of fringe at a time and, using your hook, attach them along the bottom of the cowl at every 5 stitches.

Thank you to Cascade Yarns for providing the yarn for this sample!

I knew as soon as I made the Carlyle Slouch that it needed a matching cowl. Besides the fact that my readers are always asking for patterns in sets, which I’m trying to do more of, I just love color-blocking and was so happy with how the hat came together that a cowl seemed like a natural next step!

For this pattern, I used the same 3 neutral colors from Cascade Yarn’s Longwood line (which has soooo many color options) as I did for the slouch hat. Longwood is one of my absolute all-time favorite yarns; I used it in the Herringbone Baby Hat, Easy Herringbone Earwarmer, Super Plush Infinity Scarf, and the Yenni and South Haven Slouches (the latter two use the sport weight version of the yarn). I honestly can’t get enough of its softness, drape and amazing stitch definition!

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CARLYLE COWL

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Size: 12″ tall x 29″ around

Hook: I (5.50mm)

Yarn: Approximately 350 yards of Cascade Longwood, a #4 medium yarn. Broken down, you will need about 120 yards of Color A, 115 yards of Color B, and 115 yards of Color C. I used colors “Oatmeal”, “Doeskin Heather” and “Walnut”, respectively.

Gauge: 7 rows of 8 HHDC = 2″ square

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker

Abbreviations Used:
   ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
BLO (back loop only)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) Pattern is worked in a continuous, seamless round after the band. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of rounds and do not join unless instructed to do so.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

RIBBED BAND

To begin: With COLOR A, CH9.

Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (8)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in 1st ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Rows 3-116: Repeat Row 2. (8)

Fasten off leaving a 12″ tail. Use tail to sew the last and first rows together to form a circular shape. Weave in both ends. Reattach COLOR A at the seam and continue to instructions for “Body”.

BODY

We are now working in continuous rounds. Do not join or chain unless specifically instructed.

Round 1: CH1; HHDC in each ribbing row around. (116)

Rounds 2-7: HHDC in each ST around. (116)

Attach COLOR B; fasten off COLOR A.

Rounds 8-20: HHDC in each ST around. (116)

Attach COLOR C; fasten off COLOR B.

Rounds 21-32: HHDC in each ST around. (116)

Round 33: HHDC in each of the first 112 STS; 4 STS remain. SC in each of the next 2 STS. SL ST in each of the remaining 2 STS.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this sample!

It’s coming near to the end of August, which means we’ll soon enter into the month that brings my favorite season of all — Autumn! That means it’s time for cowls, scarves, hats, boot cuffs… do you know how happy this makes me? As much as I’ve had fun coming up with home decor patterns for the last few months, fall/winter accessories are my happy place.

To kick off the season of apple crisp and hayrides, I’ve designed the first accessory in the Little Monkeys Crochet Fall ’16 lineup, the Herringbone Buttoned Cowl. This is a snug little piece of neckwear that is perfect for layering. On a cool day, it looks great worn with a shirt and jeans. On a colder evening, tuck it under your winterwear and let the ribbed collar peek out – the bottom of the cowl is nice and flat, so it won’t add bulk under your coat!

–

The Yarn

For this pattern, I used the gorgeous, relatively-new Vanna’s Style (from Lion Brand), which is a DK (that’s a #3 weight) yarn. (Don’t confuse this with Vanna’s Choice, which is a #4 worsted yarn!) This yarn is stunning. It has the most beautiful stitch definition, which shows off the rows of the Herringbone stitch really nicely. It isn’t too shiny, but has just enough sheen to give it an elegant look. I haven’t found Vanna’s Style in any of my local stores yet, but you can always purchase it direct from Lion Brand.

And if you love matching sets, check out the Herringbone Slouch:

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HERRINGBONE BUTTONED COWL

Difficulty: Easyish

Finished Size: 29″ wide x 12″ tall (when laid flat)

Hook: G (4.25mm)

Yarn: About 390-400 yards of Vanna’s Style DK Yarn by Lion Brand (that’s less than 2 skeins). The sample is shown in “Silver”.

Gauge: 16 rows of 17 HHDC = 4″ (see “Special Stitch” below for explanation of HHDC)

You’ll also need: Yarn needle, 2 buttons (3/4″ or 1″), sewing needle, and thread to match yarn color.

Abbreviations Used:
ST/STS (stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
HHDC (herringbone half double crochet; see “special stitch” below)
BLO (back loops only)

Special Stitch:
HHDC – Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Here’s how you do it:

HHDC: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull loop through stitch AND through first loop on hook (this is similar to a slip stitch motion). Two loops remain on hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops.

(If you need additional help, Moogly has an excellent video tutorial here. Please note that while her video considers the CH2 at the beginning of rows as a stitch, the pattern below does not.)

Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) CH2 at the beginning of rows does not count as a stitch.
(3) The pattern is divided into 3 parts: the Top Band, the Body, and the Side Band. The pattern as a whole is worked in one piece (there is no sewing at the end).

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

THE PATTERN

Part 1: Top Band

To begin: CH9.

Top Band, Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. (8)

Rows 2-120: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Row 121 (buttonhole): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (6 + CH2)

Row 122: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. 2SC in CH2 space. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Rows 123-124: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 6 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Part 2: Body

(Note that for ease of row counting, we are referring to the next row as “Row 1” instead of “Row 125”.)

Body, Row 1: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly down the long edge of the piece, putting 1SC in each row. (124)

Row 2: CH1, turn. HHDC in each of the first 115 STS. 9 STS remain unworked (and will remain so for the remainder of Part 2). (115)

Rows 3-42: CH1, turn. HHDC in each ST across. (115)

Note: At this point, you should be on the same side of the cowl as the buttonhole we made back in Row 121 of the Top Band. If you’re on the opposite side you probably miscounted something, but it’s no big deal; just do one more row of HHDC to get yourself to where you need to be.

Row 43: CH1, do not turn. SC evenly up the side of the cowl, working toward the buttonhole, putting 1SC in each row until you reach the inner corner where the top band and the body meet. (41 SC)

Part 3: Side Band

(Remember back in Row 2 of the body, when we left 9 stitches unworked? We’re going to be working in those now.)

Side Band, Row 1 (highlighted in yellow in the photo below): SL ST to the closest unworked ST from Row 2 of the body section. CH1. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 unworked STS. SC in both loops of the final unworked ST. (8 SC)

Row 2: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Row 43 of the body. (8, + the 2 SL STS along Row 43)

Row 3: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SC in both loops of the last ST. (8)

Rows 4-23: Repeat rows 2-3. (8)

Row 24 (buttonhole): CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. CH2, SK 2 STS. SC in BLO of each of the remaining 3 STS. SL ST in each of the next 2 STS along Row 43 of the body. (6SC + CH2 buttonhole, + the 2 SL STS along Row 43)

Row 25: CH1, turn. Skipping over the 2 SL STS, SC in BLO of each of the next 3 STS. 2SC in CH2 space. SC in BLO of each of the next 2 STS. SC in last ST. (8)

Rows 26-41: Repeat rows 2-3. (8)

Row 42: CH1, turn. SC in first ST. SC in BLO of each of the next 7 STS. SL ST in the final ST of Row 43 of the body. (8, + 1 SL ST along Row 43)

Depending on your placement of the first SCs from Row 43 of the body, your piece may look like it still needs one more row of ribbing to bring it even with the edge of the cowl. If so, go ahead and add that last row of ribbing by putting a SL ST into the CH1 space you created at the beginning of Row 43 of the body. CH1 and turn, and complete another row.

Edging: CH1, turn. SC evenly around the entire piece, putting 3SC in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the first SC.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Buttons: Lay your scarf flat, with the corner buttonhole at the top left corner. Your first button should be sewn 1 inch (both sides) from the bottom right corner; your second button should be sewn 6 inches from the right edge, 1 inch from the bottom edge (in line with the first button).

To Wear:

It can feel a bit tricky at first! Start by putting it around your neck with the buttonhole on your left, and the Top Band at the top. The button that is NOT in the corner is the button that will go through the top buttonhole. Once you’ve joined those together, you can slip the corner button through the second buttonhole, then tuck the extra fabric under the cowl. If you need a little extra help, watch this video of the Sparkly Buttoned Cowl (it’s the same style of cowl):