
A few years ago, my sister saw a photo of another designer’s floor pouf and exclaimed “I want one!” She probably doesn’t even remember this, but I do. At the time, I was a much slower crocheter and the size of that project seemed daunting. But lucky for her, I’m much faster (and, more importantly, more confident) than I was then. And, I drew her name in the family Christmas exchange this year! 🙂
Ready to make your own?
The Supplies
Yarn
You’ll need two different yarns to achieve the mosaic effect of this pattern. First, you’ll need a chunky #5 yarn that will be the base color of your pouf. Just like with my Mosaic Baskets, I used Bernat Maker Home Dec (but with a bigger hook — yay!). I think it’s the perfect yarn for this project, but really any #5 yarn will work.
Second, you’ll need a different colored yarn for the mosaic pattern on the sides of the pouf. You can get so creative here! Whether you choose a solid, variegated, or self-striping yarn, the effect will be awesome. The only rule is that it needs to be thinner than your base yarn so that you can still see the base yarn through the mosaic stitching. I recommend a #3 weight yarn.
Stuffing
We also have to stuff this thing, which is quite large. There are several things you can do — if you like to sew, you can sew an insert and fill it with polyester stuffing (you’ll need a lot to help it hold its shape). You can also use old pillows or an old blanket, but you’ll probably have to work a little harder to get it nice and round.
Or, do what I did, and use a couple rolls of foam! I found this at my craft store by the pillow inserts and knew it would be perfect. I bought two rolls of the 1″ thick foam and had my handyman dad help me slice them in half so that I would have twice as much to work with. I then carefully combined it all into one big roll.
Perfect!
Large wood circle
This part is optional, but I think it’s a great addition. If you want your pouf cover to be removable (for washing), you can purchase a large wooden circle from a craft or hardware store. I found a 15″ circle in the woodworking section of Joann Fabrics, but yours doesn’t have to be 15″ — just make sure it covers a good amount of the bottom of the pouf. (If it’s too small, you’ll have to crochet further toward the middle and the cover will get harder to remove.) I’ll explain in the directions how to adjust the pattern for whatever size you get.
Of course, if you don’t want to add the wooden piece and don’t need it to be washable, just follow the pattern to the end to completely close up the stuffing in crocheted fabric.
For the Visual Learners
This pattern does not have a video tutorial. However, it is basically just a very large version of my Mosaic Basket! If you want to quickly practice the techniques in this pattern before committing to it on such a large scale, I highly recommend that you watch the video tutorial below and maybe even follow along to make the small sized basket. Any confusing parts are bound to become more clear when seen in action!
Prefer a PDF?
This pattern can be completed using the 100% free version right here on this page. However, many people prefer the convenience of a printable, ad-free PDF. Below are two options: my popular All Access Pass, and the individual PDF pattern. Click the image to learn more about each option.
MOSAIC FLOOR POUF
View on Ravelry
Difficulty: Easy
Finished Size: 20″ wide x 15″ tall
Yarn: I used about 930 yards of Bernat Maker Home Dec (a #5 bulky weight cotton/nylon blend) in “Clay”, and about 400 yards of Yarn Bee Urban Chic (a #3 light acrylic/alpaca blend) in “Juneberry Breeze”.
Hook: K (6.5mm)
Gauge: First 7 rounds of pattern = 4.25″ across
You’ll also need: Yarn needle, stitch marker, stuffing
Terms and Abbreviations:
MC (magic circle – view tutorial here)
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
SK (skip)
CH (chain)
SC (single crochet)
Spike Stitch (see Special Stitches, below)
SC2TOG (single crochet two together)
Special Stitches:
SC Spike Stitch: Instead of inserting your hook into the top loops of the stitch, insert them into its base, then complete an SC. This will wrap your SCs over the top of the SCs from the previous round.
SL ST Spike Stitch: Follow instructions for SC Spike Stitch, but instead of completing an SC, complete a SL ST.
Notes:
(1) This pattern is written in American Standard Terms.
(2) This pattern is worked in a seamless round. Use a stitch marker or bobby pin to mark the first stitch of each round.
(3) When working increase rounds in single crochet (as we do for this pattern), the small bumps created by the increases tend to make the circle look more like a hexagon the more rounds you complete. That’s why for this large base of 32 rounds, I chose to use the Smooth Circle Base method, which is a way of staggering the placement of your increase stitches to keep it all circular. If you need help with this method beyond the written instructions, you can use my video tutorial for the Mosaic Basket in which I go into great detail about how it is done. If you prefer to not use the method, a standard 32-round increase will work fine and the hexagon will work back into a smooth circle eventually after you get past the increasing part of the pattern.
(4) Because we utilize the SC Spike Stitch for entire rounds throughout the pattern, we will be referring to those rounds as an extension of the SC rounds they are being worked into. For example, if Round 32 is a round of SC, then the very next round which places spike stitches on top of those SCs will be referred to as Round 32B. This just makes for easier counting.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Part 1: Increasing
Note: What follows is the Smooth Circle Base method of increasing. Please refer to Note #3 for an explanation.
To Begin: Make a magic circle; CH1 (does not count as a stitch).
Round 1: 6SC in MC. (6)
Round 2: 2SC in each ST around. (12)
Round 3: (2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (18)
Round 4: (SC in next ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around. (24)
Round 5: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (30)
Round 6: (SC in each of the next 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (36)
Round 7: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (42)
Round 8: (SC in each of the next 3 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (48)
Round 9: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (54)
Round 10: (SC in each of the next 4 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (60)
Round 11: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around. (66)
Round 12: (SC in each of the next 5 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (72)
Round 13: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 11 STS) around. (78)
Round 14: (SC in each of the next 6 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 6 STS) around. (84)
Round 15: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 13 STS) around. (90)
Round 16: (SC in each of the next 7 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (96)
Round 17: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 15 STS) around. (102)
Round 18: (SC in each of the next 8 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 8 STS) around. (108)
Round 19: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 17 STS) around. (114)
Round 20: (SC in each of the next 9 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around. (120)
Round 21: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 19 STS) around. (126)
Round 22: (SC in each of the next 10 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 10 STS) around. (132)
Round 23: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 21 STS) around. (138)
Round 24: (SC in each of the next 11 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 11 STS) around. (144)
Round 25: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 23 STS) around. (150)
Round 26: (SC in each of the next 12 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 12 STS) around. (156)
Round 27: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 25 STS) around. (162)
Round 28: (SC in each of the next 13 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 13 STS) around. (168)
Round 29: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 27 STS) around. (174)
Round 30: (SC in each of the next 14 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 14 STS) around. (180)
Round 31: (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 29 STS) around. (186)
Round 32: (SC in each of the next 15 STS, 2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 15 STS) around. (192)
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Part 2: Body of Pouf
Rounds 33-36: SC in each ST around. (192)
Round 37: SC in each ST around. Pull up a loop on your hook a couple inches tall so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (192)
Round 37B: Insert hook into top loops of next ST; attach thinner yarn and CH1; SC in same ST. SC Spike Stitch into next ST and each remaining ST. Pull the loop on your hook up a couple inches so it doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook. (192)
Round 38: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each ST around (you’re working in the top loops of the SC Spike Stitches from the previous round). Remove hook. (192)
Round 38B: Reinsert hook into loop from thinner yarn. SC Spike Stitch in each ST around. Remove hook. (192)
Rounds 39-67B: Repeat Rounds 38-38B. (192)
If you’re using rolled foam as your stuffing, you should insert it now to see how high the fabric will reach up the side. Be sure to work the fabric a bit and stretch it up — you don’t want to pull it crazy tight, but the more snug the fabric fits over the stuffing, the better the whole thing will look in the end. If you’re confident that the fabric will stretch up to the top of the insert, that’s great. If not, you can add more rounds before moving on. If you think you need to take some rounds away to make sure it all stays tight and snug, do that.
Round 68: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn. SC in each of the next 189 STS (3 STS remain). SL ST in each of the remaining 3 STS. Remove hook. (192)
Round 68B: Reinsert hook into loop from thinner yarn. SC Spike Stitch in each of the next 189 STS (3 STS remain). SL ST Spike Stitch in each of the remaining 3 STS. Remove hook. (192)
Round 69: Reinsert hook into loop from bulky yarn; fasten off thinner yarn. SC in each ST around. (192)
Take a moment to weave in all ends before proceeding to “Decreasing”.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Part 3: Decreasing
Important note: Below you will find the complete pattern for decreasing back down to the handful of stitches you started with. If you don’t plan to use a wooden insert at the bottom, follow these instructions to the end. If you do plan to use an insert, simply follow the instructions until your crocheted fabric will cover the wooden insert by about 2-3 inches, then proceed to “Finishing with a wooden insert”, below.
Round 70: (SC in each of the next 15 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 15 STS) around. (186)
Round 71: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 29 STS) around. (180)
Round 72: (SC in each of the next 14 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 14 STS) around. (174)
Round 73: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 27 STS) around. (168)
Round 74: (SC in each of the next 13 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 13 STS) around. (162)
Round 75: (SC2TOaG, SC in each of the next 25 STS) around. (156)
Round 76: (SC in each of the next 12 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 12 STS) around. (150)
Round 77: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 23 STS) around. (144)
Round 78: (SC in each of the next 11 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 11 STS) around. (138)
Round 79: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 21 STS) around. (132)
Round 80: (SC in each of the next 10 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 10 STS) around. (126)
Round 81: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 19 STS) around. (120)
Round 82: (SC in each of the next 9 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around. (114)
Round 83: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 17 STS) around. (108)
Round 84: (SC in each of the next 8 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 8 STS) around. (102)
Round 85: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 15 STS) around. (96)
Round 86: (SC in each of the next 7 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (90)
Round 87: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 13 STS) around. (84)
Round 88: (SC in each of the next 6 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 6 STS) around. (78)
Round 89: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 11 STS) around. (72)
Round 90: (SC in each of the next 5 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (66)
Round 91: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 9 STS) around. (60)
Round 92: (SC in each of the next 4 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 4 STS) around. (54)
Round 93: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 7 STS) around. (48)
Round 94: (SC in each of the next 3 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (42)
Round 95: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 5 STS) around. (36)
Round 96: (SC in each of the next 2 STS, SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 2 STS) around. (30)
Round 97: (SC2TOG, SC in each of the next 3 STS) around. (24)
Round 98: (SC in next ST, SC2TOG, SC in next ST) around. (18)
Round 99: (SC2TOG, SC in next ST) around. (12)
To Finish: Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Thread it through your yarn needle and weave it in and out of the 12 stitches from the previous round, then pull it tight and weave in.
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Finishing with a Wooden Insert
After you’ve completed a sufficient number of decrease rounds, fasten off and weave in the end. Cut a long length of Bernat Maker Home Dec (or your chosen chunky yarn) and thread it through a yarn needle. Weave it in and out of each stitch of the last completed round. Insert your wooden circle, then take each end of the threaded yarn and pull tight (but don’t break it!) and tie a small bow.
You’re done!
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your pouf on social media, be sure to use hashtag #mosaicfloorpouf and tag me @yarnandchai.design!
Why does it start on the sides? Can you not do the spike stitches on the increasing part by putting a spike stitch in each stitch? Thanks~!
Love this pattern! Have made all three of the Mosaic baskets with no difficulty. I am having difficulty with the decreasing though. I am following the directions and the count comes out correct BUT the round does not meet (beginning stitch to end of count stitch). Do I follow the sequence to the count (168) or (162) etc. ? I am a beginner crocheted. LOL. Thank you for your help!
OMG! I found my mistake!! I didn’t do SC2TOG correctly. My husband went on YouTube and found a video on how to decrease single crochet. (Sheepish grin). LOL! So blessed I only had crocheted 5 rounds before going further. I am so excited to complete the Mosaic Pouf! Mahalo nui loa for a wonderful pattern!
Hello,
Would it work out well if I didn’t add second color and just continue with extra rows and skip the b rows?
Any help on finding the foam roll? What dimensions should the foam be?
Hi Rebecca,
What are your thoughts about using Lion Brand Rewind yarn? Even though it’s a size 5 yarn, I wasn’t sure it would still be bulky enough, but like the Bernat Maker Home Dec’ it doesn’t look like wool and I really like it.
Thanks
I am looking for a pattern to make an ottoman cover and really like the mosaic style you have here. Is there a reason why the second yarn isn’t used until you begin the sides? Would it cause issues if adding the second yarn while still in the increasing rounds? I think this pattern would be great for covering up my friend’s inherited ottoman but know she would find a single color all across the top very boring. Thank you for sharing this pattern!
Hello, I’m wondering, is this sturdy enough to sit on?
Quick question: Does the pouf require a different size hook for the thinner yarn that does the spike stitch. Thanks so much for this lovely pattern. The mosaic baskets are lovely as well. I crocheted those first to get the practice on a much smaller scale … 😀
I love this pouf but am having problems with the pattern. I understand what you are trying to do to make the top round but I am having difficulty making the number of stitches come out correctly on the even rounds. I will give an example of my problem with round 5 and 6:
Round 5 (stitch numbers). Round 6 (stitch numbers)
1 1
2 2
3 3, 4
4 5
5 6
6 7, 8
7 9
8 10
9 11, 12
10 13
11 14
12 15, 16
13 17
14 18
15 19, 20
16 21
17 22
18 23, 24
19 25
20 26
21 27, 28
22 29
23 30
24 31, 32
25 33
26 34
27 35, 36
28 37
29 38
30 39, 40
Total Stitches = 30 Total Stitches = 40 (supposed to equal 36)
I am having this same problem with all the even rounds. What am I missing?
Thanks for any help you can give!
Here’s what you’re doing. For example, Round 4 says “(SC in next ST, 2SC in next ST, SC in next ST) around”. Simplified, this repeat is 1-2-1… so there’s a single SC at the beginning of the repeat, and a single SC at the end of it. Meaning when you repeat it, those will be side by side. What YOU are doing is this:
1-2-1-2-1-2-1-2-1-2…
But what you need to be doing is this:
1-2-1-1-2-1-1-2-1-1-2-1…
Here the sequence is in parentheses to help you better see the repeats:
(1-2-1)-(1-2-1)-(1-2-1)-(1-2-1)…
So for Round 6, you need to be doing this sequence: (1-1-2-1-1)-(1-1-2-1-1)-(1-1-2-1-1)-(1-1-2-1-1)…
I can’t find the PDF version of this pattern in the Passholder Area. Is it a separate purchase?
No, sorry about that! It’s there now 🙂
Would a 6mm hook make much if a difference in size? Wondering if doing an extra increase round would help if so?
I went ahead with it and it took 3 more rounds to equal 20 inches. Really excited to start on the rest but waiting for yarn to arrive! Have made several mosaic baskets and I love them.
I have a question about the stuffing. I bought some 2 inch thick high density foam to use as you did. I am wondering, what are the dimensions of your foam? Is it a 20 inch diameter cylinder that is 15 inches high? I found a 12 inch wood circle that I believe will do the bottom. I am considering cutting a foam circle for the top of the cylinder of foam to give it a smoother top. What do you think?
I think that’s a great idea. Did you end up cutting a foam circle? If so did it work as planned?
What a great, creative idea. It got me thinking. My grandfather built a hassock/ottoman that I inherited. It’s a lovely piece with short turned wood legs. But it needs reupholstering. Maybe I can make something along the lines of your poof cover to fit over the upholstered part and make it more presentable. It’d hiding in my craft room right now, but I’d sure like to bring it back out in my family room to enjoy and remember my grandfather and his excellent woodworking skills. Thanks for the idea.
What a great idea!
In what round to you the second color of yarn??
The 2nd color begins in round 37B. Is that what you’re asking?
Why does it start on the sides? Can you not do the spike stitches on the increasing part by putting a spike stitch in each stitch? Thanks~!
I Love the poff pattern
Love the pouf! Now I’m looking for comments on how people have filled it.
It keeps its shape great without anything on top, but I recommend it has somewhere to put your feet or a tray, not as an actual seat for your body. If you wanted it like that, you might have to rethink how the stuffing is done.
Do you need anything (like another wood circle) at the top to keep it firm, or does the wood on the bottom keep it quite straight and firm? I guess I’m thinking about putting a cup of coffee or glass of wine on the top, but maybe these poufs are more like a foot rest. Yours looks so nice and firm at the top as well so I just wanted to ask. I’m definitely going to try this but I’ll start with the mosaic basket first. I just love your patterns, and you explain things beautifully, thank you!